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EANIYAJEE  AND  TTTE  GOPEES, 


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WANDERINGS  OF  A  PILGRIM, 


IN    SEARCH    OF 


CIjc  ^iftureiSquf, 


DURING  FOUR-AND-TWENTY  YEARS  IN  THE  EAST; 


REVELATIONS   OF    LIFE 


THE   ZENANA. 


i^jk   J^ 


ILLUSTRATED  WITH  SKETCHES  FROM  NATURE. 


"  Let  the  result  be  what  it  may,  I  have  launched  my  boat." 


IN    TWO    VOLUMES. 

VOL.  II. 


.ONDON: 

0.)    PELHAM  RICHARDSON^23,  CORNHILL. 
3^850. 


LONDON : 
GILBERT   &  RIVINGTON,  PRINTERS, 
ST.  JOHN'S  SQUARE. 


CONTENTS 


TO 


VOL.  II. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

THE    MAHRATTA    CAMP    AND    ZENANA. 
1835,  April  6th. 

PAGE 

Arrived  at  Fathighar — The  Sitar  versus  the  Dital  Harp — The  Mahratta 
Camp — Her  Highness  the  Baiza  Ba'T — Jankee  Rao — The  Gaja  Raja 
Sahib — Visit  to  the  Ex-Queen — Dress  of  the  Mahrattas — The  Sword  of 
Scindia — The  English  Side-saddle — Pan  and  Atr — Departure — The 
Arab  at  the  Zenana  Gates — Her  Highness  a  good  judge  of  a  Horse — 
Absurdity  of  a  Side-saddle — The  Gaja  Rajah's  Horsemanship — A 
Challenge — The  Kurk — The  Pilgrim  receives  a  Title — The  Idols — 
The  six  Wives  of  Appa  Sahib — Oppression  of  the  Laws  with  respect 
to  Widows — Recipe  for  Hooqii  Cakes — Superstitions  of  the  Natives — 
Lucky  and  Unlucky  Marks  on  Horses — Tiger-claw  Charms — To  tame 
vicious  Horses — Assam  Coins 1 

CHAPTER  XL. 

THE    NAWAB    HAKIm    MENHDI,    AND    CITY    OF    KANAUJ. 

1835,  April  \bth. 

Zenana  of  the  Nawab  of  Fathighar — The  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi — His 
Attire  and  Residence — Shawl  Manufactory — The  Muharram — Visit  to 
the  Zenana  of  the  Nawab — Lord  Brougham — Molineux  and  Tom  Cribb 
— The  Burka — Departure  from  Fathighar — Return  to  Allahabad — 
Voyage  on  the  Ganges — The  Legend  of  Kurrah — Secunder-al-SanI — 
The  Sati — A  Squall — Terror  of  the  Sarang — The  Kali,  Nadi — Ruins  of 
Kanauj — The  Legend — Ancient  Coins — Rosewater — Burning  the  Dead 
— Arrival  at  Fathighar 16 

a2 


iv  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XLI. 

THE    MAHRATTA   CAMP   AND   SCENES    IN    THE    ZENANA. 
1835,  September  8th. 

PAGE 

Mutiny  in  Camp— Murder  of  the  Prisoners — The  Mutiny  quelled  by  the 
Military — Visit  to  the  Zenana— The  Swing  of  the  Gaja  Raja — The 
Seagull  in  Parda — The  Ba'i  Visits  the  Pinnace — How  to  dress  a  Camel 
— Tlie  Vicious  Beast — Lucky  and  Unlucky  Days — Her  Highness 
ordered  to  Benares 32 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

THE    MAHRATTAS    AT   ALLAHABAD. 

1835,  October. 

Zenana  of  the  Nawab  of  Famikhabad — The  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdl — 
Hidden  Treasures — The  Jak — Dak  to  Cawnpore — The  Nawab  of  Banda 
— Returned  Home  in  the  Seagull — Mr.  Blunt,  the  Lieutenant-Governor, 
quitted  the  Station — Arrival  of  Mr.  Ross — The  Baiza  Ba'i  sent  to 
Allahabad — Arrival  of  her  Highness — Parties  in  the  Mahratta  Camp — 
Opium-Eating — Marriage  Ceremonies  of  the  Hindoos — Procession  in 
Parda — The  Bride — Red  Gold — The  Ex-Queen's  Tents  at  the  Tribeni 
— The  Batliing — Presents  to  the  Brahmans — Arrival  of  Sir  Charles 
Metcalfe — Sohobut  Mela — Illness  of  the  Gaja  Raja  Sahib — Murder 
of  Mr.  Frazer — The  Baiza  Ba'i  a  State  Prisoner — The  Power  of 
Magic       ............     40 

CHAPTER  XLHI. 

TUFANS    IN    THE    EAST. 

1836,  June  28th. 

A  Storm  on  the  Jumna — An  Amazonian  Mahratta  Lady — Putli  Coins — 
The  Mint  at  Gwalior — East  India  Company's  Rupees — Departure  of 
Sir  Charles  Metcalfe — Murder  of  two  Ladies  in  a  Zenana  —  The 
Steamer  and  Tug — Rajmahal  Tiger  —  Cotton  Seed  —  Nagapanchmee 
—Wreck  of  the  Seagull — A  Fierce  Tufan — Arrival  of  Sir  Henry  Fane 
— Visit  to  the  Baiza  Ba'i — River  Voyage  to  Calcutta — Chunar — The 
,  God  Burtreenatli — Ghat  of  Appa  Sahib — Ghat  of  the  Baiza  Ba'i — Her 
Treasury  seized  by  the  Government — The  Chiraghdanis— The  Minarets 
— Native  Merchants — Kimkhwab  Manufactory — The  Juneoo — House 
of  the  Baiza  Ba'i— The  Iron  Chests  of  Gold  Mohurs— Rooms  full  of 
Rupees,  of  Copper  Coins,  and  of  Cowries — Vishwii-Kurma,  the  Archi- 
tect of  the  Gods  53 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 

THE    SPRING-BOW. 
1836,  November  2Ut. 

PAGE 

GhazTpur — Tomb  of  Lord  Corawallis — Palace  of  the  Nawab  of  Ghazipur 
— Beerpur — Satis — The  Murda  Ghat — Buxar  —  The  Stud — BuUiah 
Mela — Blue  Waters  of  the  Soane — Swimming  an  Elephant — A  Day  too 
late  for  the  Fair — Hajipur — The  Gunduc  River — Thieves — Futwa — 
Tarie-trees — Monghir — The  Seeta  Khoond — Janghira — Mosque  and 
Graves — Rocks  of  Kuhulgaon — Desertion  of  the  Dandees — Sikri-gali — 
An  Adventure  in  the  Hills  of  Rajmahal — Tiger  Tracks — The  Spring- 
bow — By'a  Birds — The  Hill-man — Poisoned  Arrows — The  Thumb-ring 
— Bauhinia  Scandens  .........     65 

CHAPTER  XLV. 

THE   RUINS   OF   GAUR. 

1836,  December  'Ith. 

Sporting  at  Rajmahal — Ruins  of  the  Palace  of  the  Nawab — Brahman! 
Ducks — The  Ruins  of  Gaur — The  Dakait — An  Adventure — Beautiful 
Ruins — Pan-gardens — The  Kadam  Sharif — Curious  Coins — Jungle  Fever 
— Casowtee  Stone — Fields  of  the  Mustard  Plant — Ancient  Bricks — 
Fakirs  tame  Alligators — Salt  Box — An  Account  of  the  Ruins  of  Gaur     .     79 

CHAPTER  XLVI. 

SKETCHES   IN   BENGAL — THE    SUNDERBANUS. 

1836,  December  9th. 

Toll  at  Jungipur — Bengalee  Women — Palace  of  the  Nawab  of  Moorsha- 
dabad — Mor-pankhi — Snake  Boats — Casim  Bazar — Berhampur — Cintra 
Oranges — Cutwa  Cloth — Culna — The  Timber  Raft— Chandar-nagar — 
Shola  Floats — The  Hoogly — Chinsurah — Barrukpur — Serampiir — Com 
Mills — The  Shipping — Chandpaul  Ghat — River  Fakirs— M.  le  General 
Allard — Assam  Leaf-insect — The  Races  —  Kali  Ma'i — Dwarkanath 
Tagore — The  Foot  of  a  Chinese  Lady — Quitted  Calcutta — The  Steamer 
and  Flat — The  Sunderbands — Mud  Islands — Tigers — The  Woodcutters 
— Kaloo-rayii — Settlements — Culna — Commercolly — Rajmahal — Mon- 
ghir—  Coolness  of  a  Native — Pleasures  of  Welcome — The  Vaccine 
Department — The  Gaja  Raja  performs  Piija  as  a  Fakir — The  Eclipse — 
The  Plague — The  Lottery — Conversations  in  the  Zenana — The  Auto- 
graph— Delicacy  of  Native  Ladies — Death  of  the  King  of  Oude — The 
Padshah  Begam— Moonajah — The  King's  Uncle  Raised  to  the  Throne  .     97 


V\  CONTENTS. -- 

CHAPTER  XLVII. 

RADHA   KRISHNU — SPORTING   IN    ASSAM. 

1837,  August. 

PAGE 
Festival  of  the  Birthday  of  Krishuu— The  Ras— The  Rakhl— Krishnii 
or  Kaniya — Sports  of  the  Gopi's — The  Elephant — The  Horse — Gopalii 
— Gopi  Nat'hu — Radha  Krishnii — Krishnii  destroying  the  Serpent — 
Monotony  of  Life  in  India — The  Holy  Monkey — Sporting  in  Assam — 
Buffalo  Shooting — Tiger  Hunting  on  Foot — The  Baghmars — The 
Spring-bow — An  Earthquake — Risk  of  Life  in  the  Bhagmar  Department 
— The  Burying- Ground  at  Goalparah 116 

CHAPTER  XLVni. 

THE    FAMINE    AT   KANAUJ. 

1837,  August. 

Partiality  of  the  Natives  for  English  Guns — Solitary  Confinement — The 
Nawab  Hakim  Menhdl — Bad  Omens^ — A  Slight  Mistake — Bhusa — The 
Padshah  Begam  and  Moona-jah — The  Baiza  Ba'i  visits  a  Steamer — 
Arrival  of  Lord  Auckland— Visit  of  the  Governor-General  and  the  Hon. 
the  Misses  Eden  to  her  Highness  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior — A  March 
up  tlie  Country — The  Camp  at  Fathlpur — The  Line  of  March — Death 
of  the  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi — The  Heir-apparent  of  Oude  gives  a 
Breakfast  to  the  Governor-General — H.R.  H.  Prince  Henry  of  Orange 
and  the  Misses  Eden  visit  Lucnow — Resignation  of  Sir  Charles  Met- 
calfe— Choblpur — Thieves — Urowl — The  Famine — The  Pilgrim  buys  a 
Cocky-olli  Bird — Merunkee  Sara'e — Ancient  Hindu  Ruin  at  Kanauj — 
Famine  in  the  Bazar— Interment  of  Mahadeo  and  Parbati — The  Legend 
of  Kanauj 134 

CHAPTER  XLIX. 

THE   HINDU   TRIAD. 

The  330,000,000  Gods  of  the  Hindu  Pantheon— The  Janeo— Brumhii— 
The  Trinity — Bramha — Vishnii — Shivu — The  Ten  Avatars — The  Fish 
— The  Tortoise — The  Boar — The  Man-lion — Vamana  the  Dwarf — 
I'arashu-Rama  —  Rama-Chandra  —  Bala-Rama  —  Booddhii  —  Kalki  — 
Krishnii  —  Radha —  Rukmeni — Jaganna'tli —  Kama-deva —  Mahadeo — 
Parvati —  GSn6sh —  Kartikeya —  Lachhmi—  Saraswati — Durga — Sati  — 
The  Puranns — The  Mundane  Egg  of  the  Hindus  — Tiie  Vedas — Ascen- 
sion of  the  God  Buddha 147 


CONTENTS.  VU 

CHAPTER  L. 

PLEASANT   DAYS   IN    CAMP. 
1838,  January  8th, 

PAGE 

Jellalabad  —  Menhdl  Bridge — The  Resident  of  Gwalior — Difficulty  of 
Crossing  the  Sands  of  the  Ganges — Imrutpiir — Marching  under  the 
Flag  of  the  Resident  of  Gwalior — Khasgunge — The  Tombs  of  Colonel 
Gardner  and  his  Begam — Mulka  Begam — Style  of  March — Pleasure  of 
a  Life  in  Tents— The  Fort  of  Alligarh— The  Racers— The  16th 
Lancers  present  a  Shield  to  Mr.  Blood — The  Monument — The  Kos- 
Minar — Koorjah  and  Solitude — Meeting  of  Old  Friends— Meerut — The 
Officers  of  the  Artillery  give  a  Ball  to  the  Governor-General  and  his 
Party — The  Suraj  Kiind — The  Buffs  add  to  the  Gaiety  of  the  Station — 
The  Artillery  Theatre — The  Pilgrim  Tax  abolished  at  Allahabad  .         .182 

CHAPTER  LI. 

RUINS   OF   DELHI. 

1838,  February. 

Happiness  of  being  alive — March  from  Meerut  to  Delhi — Method  of 
Stealing  a  Camel — Delhi — The  Church — Monument  erected  to  William 
Frazer,  Esq.,  B.C.S. — The  Canal  of  Paradise — Mimic  Warfare — Tomb 
of  Humaioon — Fort  of  Feroze  Shah — Masjid  of  Zeenut  al  Nissa — 
Masjid  of  Roshun-ool-DowIa — Datisca  Cannabina — Mimosa  Scandens 
— Washing  by  Steam — The  Kutab  Minar — Ancient  Colonnades — Kutab 
ki  Lat — Unfinished  Minar 191 


CHAPTER  LII. 

ANCIENT  DELHI THE  ZENANA  GHAR. 

1838,  February  2'2nd. 

Ancient  Delhi  —  The  Ba'oll — Tombs  of  Shah'alam,  Bahadur  Shah,  and 
Akbar  Shah — The  Zenana  Ghar — Extent  of  the  Ruins — The  Observatory 
— Palace  of  Shahjahanabad — The  Zenana — Hyat-ool-Nissa  Begam — 
Poverty  of  the  Descendants  of  Tamurlane — The  Effect  of  a  Zenana  • 
Education  on  Man  and  Woman — Death  of  Pnnce  Dara  Bukht— The 
Dewani  Am — The  Dewani  Khas — The  Palace— The  Shah- burj— Gar- 
dens of  Shalimar — Ruins  of  Palaces  and  Baths — The  Modem  City — 
Tees  Hazzari  Bagh — The  Madrissa — The  Jama  Masjid— The  Kala 
Masjid— Plan  of  the  City  of  Delhi— Quitted  Delhi,  and  returned  to 
Meerut— Tomb  of  PIr  Shah 207 


Viu  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  LIU. 

DEPARTURE    FOR   THE    HILLS — LANDOWR. 
1838,  March  Wlh. 

PAGE 

First  View  of  the  Snowy  Ranges — Saharanpur — MohunchaukT — An 
Adventure  —  The  Keeree  Pass  —  Rajpur — Mot!  —  The  Gunth  —  Hill- 
men — A  Jampan — Ascent  to  Landowr — Hill  Flowers — Purity  of  the 
Air  —  View  of  the  Himalaya — The  Khuds  —  Mussoorl  —  Rhododen- 
dron Trees — Mr.  Webb's  Hotel — Curious  Soap — The  Landowr  Bazar — 
Schools  in  the  Hills — Cloud  End — The  White  Rhododendron — Storm 
in  the  Hills — Hill  Birds — Fever  in  the  Hills — Newlands — Death  of 
Major  Blundell 224 

CHAPTER  LIV. 

PICTURESQUE    SCENES   IN   THE    HILLS. 

1838,^;jr«7  nth. 

Jerripani — The  Cicalas — View  from  the  Pilgrim's  Bangla — A  Fall  over 
a  Precipice — The  Glow-worm — Wild-beast  Track — The  Scorpion — 
Mules — Karral  Sheep — Wet  Days — Noisy  Boys — Conical  Hills — The 
Khuds— Earthquake  at  Cloud  End— The  Waterfall— Fall  of  a  Lady 
and  Horse  over  a  Precipice — Kalunga — General  Gillespie — The  Kookree 
—The  Ghoorkas— The  Korah— The  Sling— Ben  Oge— Danger  of 
Exposure  to  the  Mid-day  Sun — An  Earthquake — A  Spaniel  seized  by 
a  Leopard — A  Party  at  Cloud  End — A  Buffer  encounters  a  Bear — Hills 
on  Fire — Botanical  Gardens — Commencement  of  the  Rains — Expedition 
to  the  Summit  of  Bhadraj — Munificence  of  tlie  Clouds — Storms  in  High 
Places —Danger  of  Narrow  Roads  during  the  Rains — Introduction  of 
Slated  Roofs  in  the  Hills  236 

CHAPTER  LV. 

LIFE    IN    THE   HILLS. 

1838,  June  29th. 

Kharlta  of  her  Highness  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior — A  Mountain  Storm — 
An  Adventure — Asses  carried  off  by  Leopards — Bear's  Grease — Deodar 
Oil— Apricot  Oil— Hill  Currants— Figs  and  Tar— The  Cholera— Sacrifice 
of  a  Kid  to  the  Mountain  Spirit — Absurdity  of  the  Fear  of  a  Russian 
Invasion — Plague  of  Fleas — The  Charmed  Stone — Iron-stone — Kho- 
Wah,  the  Hill  Dog — Sheep-stealing  —  Booteah  Chharra — Flexible 
Stone — A  Fearful  Storm — A  Doomed  Bangla — Leaf  Butterflies — 
Bursting  of  the  Mahratta  Bandh  at  Prag — Similarity  of  the  Singular 
Marriages  in  the  Hills  with  those  of  the  Ancient  Britons — Honesty  of 
tlie  Paharis,  i.e.  Mountaineers  250 


CONTENTS.  UE 


CHAPTER  LVI. 

ELEVATION    OF    THE    HIMALAYA. 
1838,  September. 

PAGE 

The  Great  Peak  of  Bhadrinath — No  Glaciers  in  the  Snowy  Ranges — Cere- 
monies performed  on  visiting  Holy  Places — Kedarnath — Moira  Peak 
— Gangoutri — The  Jaunti  Peak — Jumnotrl — The  Himalaya  Range 
formed  by  Mahadeo  —  Palia  Gadh — The  Dewtas  —  Bandarponch — 
Hiinooman — The  Cone — Height  of  the  Himalayas      ....  260 

CHAPTER  LVII. 

DEPARTURE    FROM   THE   HILLS, 

1838,  September  8th. 

Family  Sorrows — The  Snowy  Ranges  after  the  Rains — Hill  Birds— The 
Park — Hill  Boundaries — Stables  on  Fire — Opening  of  the  Keeree  Pass 
— Danger  of  passing  through  it — Deobund — Return  to  Meerut — The 
Tomb  of  Jaffir  Sahib — Chiri-mars — Country  Horses — The  Theatre  of 
the  16th  Lancers — Colonel  Arnold's  Farewell  Ball — His  Illness — 
Opinions  respecting  the  War — The  Lancers  ordered  to  Afghanistan — 
Ghurmuktesur  Ghat — Country  Boats — Khobarah,  the  Hill  Dog — Sancho 
— A  Dilemma — Gunths — Knocked  over  by  a  Buffalo — Fathlgarh — 
DhobTs — Cawnpore — Sal  and  Teak  Trees — Deism — Points  of  Faith — 
The  Power  of  the  Brahmans — A  Converted  Hindi! — Sneezing  an  111 
Omen — The  Return  of  the  Pilgrim     .         .         .         .         .         .         .271 

CHAPTER  LVni. 

DEPARTURE    FROM   ALLAHABAD THE   THREE   WISHES. 

1838,  November. 

Arrival  at  Allahabad — Visit  to  the  Mahratta  Camp — The  Three  Wishes 
— The  Ticca  Wife — The  Farewell  of  her  Highness  the  Baiza  Ba'i — 
How  to  dispose  of  a  Wife — The  Bundelas — Price  of  Children — The 
Pillar  in  the  Fort — Voyage  down  the  River — Anwari  Fish — A  Lady 
Overboard — An  Accident — The  SIta  Khund — The  Army  of  the  Indus  ■ 
— Meeting  of  the  Governor-General  and  Runjeet  Singh — The  Camel 
Battery— Lord  Auckland's  Visit  to  Runjeet's  Camp — The  Koh-i-Nur — 
The  Rajpiit  Tray — A  Paharl  Dress — The  Ayha's  Stratagem — An 
Escape  on  the  River — Natives  afraid  of  Cadets — The  Panchayat — Fear 
of  Poison — Berhampur — The  Nawab,  the  Merchant,  and  the  Palki — 
Quitted  Berhampfir 291 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  LIX. 

ARRIVAL   IN   CALCUTTA — THE 

1839,  January  \st. 

FAOE 

Cutwa — Bracelets  of  the  Sankh  Shell — Anchor-making  at  Culwa — The 
Dying  Bengali— The  Skull— The  Tides— The  "Madagascar"— Mal-de- 
Mer — A  Man  Overboard — Mountains  of  Africa — Wrecks — Wineburgh 
— Constantia — A  South-easter — Return  to  the  Ship — Emancipation  of 
the  Slaves — Grapes — A  Trip  into  the  Interior — Captain  Harris — St. 
Helena — Prices  at  Mr.  Solomon's  Shop — The  Tomb  of  the  Emperor — 
Longwood — St.  Helena  Birds — Our  Indian  Wars — General  Allard — 
Letter  from  Jellalabad — Death  of  Colonel  Arnold — The  Afghans — 
Mausoleum  of  Shah  Mahmoud — The  Gates  of  Somnaut — The  Remains 
of  the  Ancient  City  of  Ghuznee 308 

CHAPTER  LX. 

DEPARTURE   FROM   ST.  HELENA. 

1839,  March  \9th. 
Quitted  St.  Helena — The  Polar  Star — Drifting  Seaweed — ^The  Paroquets 
— Worship  of  Birds — A  Gale— The  Orange  Vessel — The  Pilot  Schooner 
— Landing  at  Plymouth — First  Impressions — A  Mother's  Welcome — 
The  Mail  Coach — The  Queen's  Highway — Dress  of  the  English — 
Price  of  Prepared  Birds — The  Railroads — The  New  Police— English 
Horses — British  Museum— Horticultural  Show  —  Umberslade — Tan- 
worth — Conway  Castle — Welsh  Mutton — Church  of  Conway — Tomb- 
stone of  Richard  Hookes,  Gent. — The  Menai  Bridge — Dublin — 
Abbeyleix — Horns  of  the  Elk — Penny  Postage — Steam  Engines — 
Silver  Firs— Moonal  Pheasants — The  Baige  run  down — Chapel  of 
Pennycross — The  Niger  Expedition — Schwalbach — Family  Sorrows — 
Indian  News — The  Birth  of  the  Chimna  Raja  Sahib— Captain  Sturt's 
Sketches— Governor  Lin — The  Baiza  Ba'i  consents  to  reside  at  Nassuk — 
Fire  in  her  Camp— Death  of  Sir  Henry  Fane — Church  built  by  Subscrip- 
tion at  Allahabad — Governor  Lin's  Button — The  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior 
marches  to  Nassuk — Price  of  a  Gentleman— Death  of  the  Old  Shepherd 
from  Hydrophobia — Pedigree  of  JumnI,  the  Invaluable         .         .         .  327 

CHAPTER  LXI. 

VOYAGE  TO  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 
1843. 
Family  Sorrows — Departure  from  England  — The  "  Camatic" — A  Gale — 
The  Spirit  of  the  Storm— SunseU— Peak  of  Teneriffe— The  Trade 
Wind — A  most  Magnificent  Comet— Phosphoric  Lights — Visit  of  Nep- 
tune declined — Scarcity  of  Provisions— Spray  Bows — Albatross  caught 
— Arrival  at  tlie  Cape  of  Good  Hope 316 


CONTENTS.  XI 

•  CHAPTER  LXII. 

RESIDENCE    AT   CAPE   TOWN. 
1843,  May. 

PAGE 

View  from  the  Sea — Wrecks — Cape  Town — The  Fish  Market — The 
Seasons — Slavery — Washerwomen  on  the  Mountain — Target  Practice 
— Beautiful  Flowers — Cape  Sheep — The  Bushwoman — Green  Point — 
Shells — The  Honey-bush — Bracelets  of  Ivory — High  Price  of  Curi- 
osities— Auctions — Robberies — Camp's  Bay — Fine  Aloes — Effect  of  the 
Fog-wreaths  on  the  Lion  Mountain — The  Lion's  Rump — Enormous 
Bulbs — The  Botanical  Gardens — Remarkable  Trees  and  Shrubs — The 
Haemanthus — Poisoned  Arrows — The  Puff-Adder — The  Melaleuca — 
Curious  Trees — The  Plaat  Clip,  or  Flat  Stone — The  Solitary  Ruin         .  355 

CHAPTER  LXin. 

SCENES   AT   THE    CAPE — THE   TEMPLE   OF   JAGANATH. 

1843,  August, 

A  Kafir  Warrior — The  Kaross — Vegetable  Ivory — Shells — Changeable 
Weather — The  Races — Dutch  Beauties — Newlands — Cape  Horses — 
The  Arum — The  Aloe — Servants  at  the  Cape — Pedigree  of  a  Malay — 
The  Cook — The  Washerwoman — Africanders — Shops  in  Cape  Town — 
The  "  Robarts  " — View  from  the  Ship  in  the  Bay — The  Muharram — 
The  Southern  Cross — The  Sailor  and  the  Shark — Madras — Katmirams 
— Masulla  Boats — The  New  Lighthouse — The  Mint — She- Asses — 
Donies — Descendants  of  Milton — The  Globe-Fish— Pooree — The  Surf 
— Temple  of  Jaganath — The  Swing — The  Rath — Death  of  Krishna — 
The  Architect  of  the  Gods — Jaganath— The  Trinity— The  Seal — 
Ancient  City  near  Pooree — Dangerous  Shore — The  Floating  Light — The 
Sandheads — Anchored  at  Baboo  Ghat,  Calcutta — Wilful  Burning  of  the 
"Robarts" 369 

CHAPTER  LXIV. 

SKETCHES   ON   THE   RIVER   FROM   CALCUTTA   TO   COLGONG. 

1844,  April  \st. 

Calcutta — Mango  Fish — Lord  Ellenborough  recalled — Fall  of  Fish— The 
Hoogly — The  Bore — Quitted  Calcutta — Ishapur — Chagdah — Happiness 
of  Dying  in  Sight  of  the  Ganges — Quitted  the  Tropics — Cutwa — 
Plassey — Berhampiir — Morus  Indica — Jungipur — Quitted  the  Bhagi- 
rathi — Night  Blindness — SikrI-gali — Herd  of  Buffaloes — Patturgatta 
Hill — Rocks  of  Colgong — An  Ajgar — A  Wild  and  Singular  Scene         .  389 


Xn  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  LXV. 

SKETCHES   ON    THE   GANGES    FROM    COLGONG   TO    DINAPUR. 
1844,  November  5th. 

PAGE 

Bhagulpur — Rock  and  Temple  of  Janghlra — Cytisus  Cajan — Force  of 
the  Current — Monghir — An  Aerolite — Bairagl  Temples — Dwakanath 
Tagore — Rosaries — Vases  —  Suraj-garha — Bar  —  Beggars  and  Swine 
—  BenTpur — Bankipur — Azimabad — Suraj  Puja — Patna — The  Gola — 
Deegah — Havell's  Farm — Dinapur 401 

CHAPTER  LXVI. 

SKETCHES   ON   THE   GANGES    FROM   DINAPUR   TO   BENARES. 

1844,  November  20th. 
The  Soane  River — Chuppra — Revelgunge — The  Fair  at  BuUeah — Bam- 
boos— The  Wreck — Buxar — The  Peepul  Tree  and  Temple  of  Mahadeo 
— Barrah — Sati  Mounds — Kurum-nassa  River — Palace  of  the  Nawab  of 
Ghazipur — The  Native  Town — The  Gigantic  Image — Three  Satis  and 
a  Mandap  or  Hindu  Temple — Eight-and-Twenty  Satis — The  Fate  of 
Women — The  Kalsas — Station  of  Ghazipur — The  Stalking  Horse — 
Booraneepur — Kankar  Reefs — Seydpiir — Burning  the  Dead — Rites  for 
the  Repose  of  the  Soul — BrahmanI  Bulls — Funeral  Ceremonies  of  the 
Romans — Raj  Ghat,  Benares 412 

CHAPTER  LXVn. 

SKETCHES  ON  THE  GANGES  FROM  BENARES  TO  BINDACHUN. 

1844,  December  Sth. 
Benefits  arising  from  a  Residence  in  the  Holy  City  of  KashI — Kalu- 
Bhoiruvu — The  Snake-Charmers — Gigantic  Image  of  Hunooman — 
BrahmanI  Bulls — The  Ghats  from  the  River — Bhim  Singh — Tulsl  Altars 
— Ruins  of  the  Ghat  of  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior — A  Corpse — Young 
Idolaters — State  Prisoners — The  City— Sultanpur — Chunar — Pictu- 
resque Tree  near  the  Ghat — Singular  Ceremonies — The  Deasil — Turn- 
bull  Gunge — Mirzapiir — Beautiful  Ghats  and  Temples — Carpet  Manu- 
factory— Bindachun  .........  435 

CHAPTER  LXVni. 

SKETCHES   ON    THE    RIVER   FROM   BINDACHUN   TO   ALLAHABAD. 

1S44,  December  lUh. 
Bindachun — Devi  Ghat — The  Temple  of  Bhawani — Bhagwan — The  Thugs 
— The  Hajjam — The  Tashma-baz  Thugs — The  Pleasure  of  Wandering 
— Sirsa — Munyah  Ghat — Arail — Arrival  at  Allahabad— Native  Sugar- 
Mills    .         .  448 


CONTENTS.  Xm 


CHAPTER  LXIX. 

RESIDENCE    AT    PRAG,    AND    RETURN    TO    CALCUTTA. 

1844,  December  \&ih. 

PAGE 

The  Sibylline  Temple — Mr.  Berrill's  Hotel — A  Barouche  drawn  by 
Camels — The  Murdar-khor — A  Kharlta  from  the  Baiza  Ba'I — Marriage 
of  the  ChimnaRaja — Sultan  Khusru's  Garden— The  Tombs — Tamarind 
Trees— The  Sara's — The  Baoll — Tattoos  used  for  Palanquins — Reasons 
for  the  Murder  of  a  Wife  and  Child— The  Lat— A  Skilful  Swordsman— 
An  Eclipse — Tufans — Death  of  Mr.  James  Gardner — Quitted  Allahabad 
— The  Ganges — A  Wreck — A  Storm — Indian  Com — Colgong — Seryagali 
Hills  and  Ruins — Nuddea — Suspension  Bridge — Prinsep  Ghat  at  Cal- 
cutta— Engaged  a  Passage  in  the  "  Essex  "  .....  461 

CHAPTER  LXX. 

SKETCHES   AT   SEA. 

1845,  September  1st. 

The  "  Essex" — The  "  James  and  Mary" — Steering  a  Ship  at  Anchor — A 
Waterspout — The  Andamans — Acheen  Point — A  Squally  Trade  Wind 
— Rodorigos — A  Gale — The  Whirl  wind — The  Stormy  Petrel — A  Day  of 
Repose — A  Remarkable  Sunrise  .......  474 

CHAPTER  LXXI. 

SKETCHES    AT    SEA MOUNTAINS    OF    AFRICA THE    FAREWELL. 

1845,  October  29th. 

The  Buffalo — The  Quoin — Cape  Aguilhas — Hangclip — Capo-del-Tomados 
— Robbin  Island — Table  Bay — Cape  Town — Green  Point — The  Lion 
Mountain — St.  Helena — Flying-fish — Blue-fish — Island  of  Ascension — 
Funeral  at  Sea — A  Sailor's  Grave — A  Chinese  Calculation — Waterspouts 
— The  Western  Isles— St.  Michael's — Pico— Fayal — Christmas  Eve — 
The  Good  Ship  "  Essex" — Arrival  in  England — The  Pilgrim's  Adieu     .  485 


LIST    OF    PLATES 


VOL.  II. 


No.  To  face  page 

29.  Frontispiece — Kaniya-jee  and  the  GopTs,  to  face  the  Title 

30.  Superstitions  of  the  Natives           ......  9 

31.  The  Spring-Bow 73 

32.  Kaniya-jee  and  the  Gopis      ...                  ...  121 

33.  Ancient  HindQ  Ruin     . 143 

34.  The  Hindu  Triad 147 

35.  Plan  of  Delhi 193 

36.  View  from  the  Pilgrim's  Bangla 237 

37.  The  Kharlta 250 

38.  Pennycross  Chapel 341 

39.  The  Bushwoman 360 

40.  A  Kafir  Warrior 369 

41.  The  Southern  Cross 375 

42.  Jaganath 384 

43.  Three  Satis  and  a  Mandap  near  GhazTpiir       ....  419 

44.  Kalsas 421 

45.  The  Temple  of  Bhawani 449 

46.  Bhagwan 450 

47.  Native  Sugar  Mills 457 

48.  Waterspouts 493 

49.  Pico 494 

50.  Elevation  of  the  Himalaya.  A«t^4(-  tj- 


/^ 


■)  r 


WANDERINGS   OF  A  PILGRIM. 


CHAPTER   XXXIX. 

THE  MAHRATTA  CAMP  AND  ZENANA. 

"  FOR  WHOM  SHALL  I  STAIN  MY  TEETH  AND  BLACKEN  MY   EYELASHES? THE 

MASTER  IS  TURNED  TO  ASHES '." 

Arrived  at  Fathlghar— The  Sitar  versus  the  Dital  Harp— The  Mahratta  Camp 
— Her  Highness  the  Baiza  Ba'T — Jankee  Rao— The  Gaja  Raja  Sahib — 
Visit  to  the  Ex-Queen — Dress  of  the  Mahrattas — The  Sword  of  Scindia — 
The  English  Side-saddle  —  Pan  and  Atr — Departure — The  Arab  at  the 
Zenana  Gates — Her  Highness  a  good  judge  of  a  horse — Absurdity  of  a  Side- 
saddle— The  Gujja  Rajah's  Horsemanship — A  Challenge — The  Kurk — The 
Pilgrim  receives  a  Title — The  Idols — The  six  Wives  of  Appa  Sahib — Op- 
pression of  the  Laws  with  respect  to  Widows — Recipe  for  Hooqu  Cakes — 
Superstitions  of  the  Natives — Lucky  and  unlucky  marks  on  Horses — Tiger- 
claw  charms — To  tame  vicious  Horses — Assam  Coins. 

1835,  April  6th. — I  arrived  at  Fathlghar,  at  the  house  of  a 
relative  in  the  Civil  Service,  the  Judge  of  the  Station,  and  agent 
to  the  Governor- general.  After  a  hot  and  dusty  dak  trip,  how 
delightful  was  the  coolness  of  the  rooms,  in  which  thermanti- 
dotes  and  tattls  were  in  full  force  !  As  may  be  naturally  supposed, 
I  could  talk  of  nothing  but  Khasgunge,  and  favoured  the  party 
with  some  Hindustani  airs  on  the  sitar,  which  I  could  not  per- 
suade them  to  admire ;  to  silence  my  sitar  a  dital  harp  was 
presented  to  me ;  nevertheless,  I  retained  a  secret  fondness  for 
the  native  instrument,  which  recalled  the  time  when  the  happy 
slave  girls  figured  before  me. 

Having  seen  MusulraanI  ladies  followers  of  the  Prophet,  how 
great  was  my  delight  at  finding  native  ladies  were,  at  Fathlghar, 
worshippers  of  Ganesh  and  Krishn-jee ! 

'  Oriental  Proverbs  and  Sayings,  No.  101. 
VOL.  H.  B 


2  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

Her  Highness  the  Biiiza  Ba'i,  the  widow  of  the  late  Maharaj 
Daolut  Rao  Scindia,  was  in  camp  at  this  place,  under  the  care 
of  Captain  Ross.  Daolut  Rao,  the  adopted  son  and  grand- 
nephew  of  Mahadajee  Scindia,  contested  with  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  then  Sir  Arthur  Wellesley,  the  memorable  field  of 
Assaye.  On  the  death  of  Scindia,  by  his  appointment,  the 
Biiiza  Ba'T,  having  become  Queen  of  Gwalior,  ruled  the  kingdom 
for  nine  years.  Having  no  male  issue,  her  Highness  adopted  a 
youth,  called  Jankee  Rao,  a  distant  relative  of  Scindia's,  who 
was  to  be  placed  on  the  masnad  at  her  decease. 

A  Rajpoot  is  of  age  at  eighteen  years :  but  when  Jankee  Rao 
was  only  fourteen  years  old,  the  subjects  of  the  Ba'I  revolted,  and 
placed  the  boy  at  the  head  of  the  rebellion.  Had  her  Highness 
remained  at  Gwalior  she  would  have  been  murdered ;  she  was 
forced  to  fly  to  Fathlghar,  where  she  put  herself  under  the  pro- 
tection of  the  Government.  Her  daughter,  the  Chimna  Raja 
Sahib,  a  lady  celebrated  for  her  beauty,  and  the  wife  of  Appa 
Siihib,  a  Mahratta  nobleman,  died  of  fever,  brought  on  by 
exposure  and  anxiety  at  the  time  she  fled  from  Gwalior,  during 
tlie  rebellion.  It  is  remarkable,  that  the  ladies  in  this  family 
take  the  title  of  Raja,  to  which  Sahib  is  generally  aflixed. 
Appa  Sahib  joined  the  Biiiza  Ba'I,  fled  with  her,  and  is  now  in 
her  camp  at  Fathlghar.  The  rebellion  of  her  subjects,  and  her 
Highness  being  forced  to  fly  the  kingdom,  were  nothing  to  the 
Ba'i  in  comparison  to  the  grief  occasioned  her  by  the  loss  of 
her  beloved  daughter,  the  Chimna  Rajii. 

Her  grand-daughter,  the  Gaja  Riija  Sahib,  is  also  Uving  with 
her ;  she  has  been  married  two  years,  but  is  alone,  her  husband 
having  deserted  her  to  join  the  stronger  party. 

The  Bii'i,  although  nominally  free,  is  in  fact  a  prisoner  ;  she 
is  extremely  anxious  to  return  to  Gwalior,  but  is  prevented  by 
the  refusal  of  the  Government  to  allow  her  to  do  so  ;  this  renders 
her  very  unhappy. 

8th. — ^The  Brija  Biil,  one  of  her  ladies,  called  to  invite  the 
lady  with  whom  I  am  staying  to  visit  the  Mahtiriij  in  camp ; 
and  gave  me  an  invitation  to  accompany  her. 

12/A. — When  the  appointed  day  arrived,    the  attendants  of 


HER   HIGHNESS    THE    BAIZA  BA  I.  3 

her  Highness  were  at  our  house  at  4  a.m.,  to  escort  us  to 
the  camp. 

It  is  customary  for  a  visitor  to  leave  her  shoes  outside  the 
parda,  when  paying  her  respects  to  a  lady  of  rank ;  and  this 
custom  is  always  complied  with,  unless  especial  leave  to  retain 
the  shoes  has  been  voluntarily  given  to  the  visitor,  which 
would  be  considered  a  mark  of  great  kindness  and  condescen- 
sion. 

We  found  her  Highness  seated  on  her  gaddi  of  embroidered 
cloth,  with  her  grand-daughter  the  Gaja  Raja  Sahib  at  her  side  ; 
the  ladies,  her  attendants,  were  standing  around  her ;  and  the 
sword  of  Scindia  was  on  the  gaddl,  at  her  feet.  She  rose  to 
receive  and  embrace  us,  and  desired  us  to  be  seated  near  her. 
The  Biiiza  Ba'i  is  rather  an  old  woman,  with  grey  hair,  and  en 
hon  point ;  she  must  have  been  pretty  in  her  youth  ;  her  smile  is 
remarkably  sweet,  and  her  manners  particularly  pleasing ;  her 
hands  and  feet  are  very  small,  and  beautifully  formed.  Her 
sweet  voice  reminded  me  of  the  proverb,  "  A  pleasant  voice 
brings  a  snake  out  of  a  hole  '."  She  was  dressed  in  the  plainest 
red  silk,  wore  no  ornaments,  with  the  exception  of  a  pair  of 
small  plain  bars  of  gold  as  bracelets.  Being  a  widow,  she  is 
obliged  to  put  jewellery  aside,  and  to  submit  to  numerous 
privations  and  hardships.  Her  countenance  is  very  mild  and 
open ;  there  is  a  freedom  and  independence  in  her  air  that  I 
greatly  admire, — so  unUke  that  of  the  sleeping,  languid,  opium- 
eating  Musalmanls.  Her  grand- daughter,  the  Gaja  Raja  Sahib, 
is  very  young ;  her  eyes  the  largest  I  ever  saw  ;  her  face  is  rather 
flat,  and  not  pretty ;  her  figure  is  beautiful ;  she  is  the  least 
little  wee  creature  you  ever  beheld.  The  Mahratta  dress  consists 
only  of  two  garments,  which  are,  a  tight  body  to  the  waist,  with 
sleeves  tight  to  the  elbow  ;  a  piece  of  silk,  some  twenty  yards  or 
more  in  length,  which  they  wind  around  them  as  a  petticoat,  and 
then,  taking  a  part  of  it,  draw  it  between  the  limbs,  and  fasten 
it  behind,  in  a  manner  that  gives  it  the  effect  both  of  petticoat 
and  trowsers ;  this  is  the  whole  dress,  unless,  at  times,  they 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  102. 

b2 


4  WANDERINGS   OK    A    PILGRIM. 

substitute  angiyas,  with  short  sleeves,  for  the  tight  long-sleeved 
body. 

The  Gaja  Riija  was  dressed  in  purple  Benares  silk,  with  a  deep 
gold  border  woven  into  it ;  when  she  walked  she  looked  very 
graceful,  and  the  dress  very  elegant ;  on  her  forehead  was  a  mark 
like  a  spear-head,  in  red  paint ;  her  hair  was  plaited,  and  bound 
into  a  knot  at  the  back  of  her  head,  and  low  down  ;  her  eyes 
were  edged  with  surma,  and  her  hands  and  feet  dyed  with  hinnii. 
On  her  feet  and  ancles  were  curious  silver  ornaments ;  toe-rings 
of  peculiar  form ;  which  she  sometimes  wore  of  gold,  sometimes 
of  red  coral.     In  her  nostril  was  a  very  large  and  brilliant  n'hut 
(nose-ring),  of  diamonds,  pearls,  and  precious   stones,   of  the 
particular  shape  worn  by  the  Mahrattas  ;  in  her  ears  were  fine 
brilliants.     From  her  throat  to  her  waist  she  was  covered  with 
strings  of  magnificent  pearls  and  jewels  ;  her  hands  and  arms 
were  ornamented  with  the  same.     She  spoke  but  little, — scarcely 
five  words  passed  her  lips  ;  she  appeared  timid,  but  was  pleased 
with  the  bouquet  of  beautiful  flowers,  just  fresh  from  the  garden, 
that  the  lady  who  presented  me  laid  at  her  feet  on  her  entrance. 
These  Mahrattas  are  a  fine  bold  race  ;  amongst  her  ladies  in 
waiting  I  remarked  several  fine  figures,   but   their  faces  were 
generally  too  flat.     Some  of  them  stood  in  waiting  with  rich 
Cashmere  shawls  thrown  over  their  shoulders  ;  one  lady,  before 
the  Mahariij,  leaned  on  her  sword,  and  if  the  Ba'I  quitted  the 
apartment,  the  attendant  and  sword  always  followed  her.     The 
Ba'I  was  speaking  of  horses,  and  the  lady  who  introduced  me 
said  I  was  as  fond  of  horses  as  a  Mahratta.     Her  Highness  said 
she  should  like  to  see  an  English  lady  on  horseback  ;  she  could 
not  comprehend  how  they  could  sit  all  crooked,  all  on  one  side, 
in  the  side-saddle.     I  said  I  should  be  too  happy  to  ride  into 
camp  any  hour  her  Highness  would  appoint,  and  show  her  the 
style  of  horsemanship   practised   by   ladies   in   England.     The 
Mahiiraj  expressed  a  wish  that  I  should  be  at  the  Mahratta  camp 
at  4  A.M.,  in  two  days'  time.    Atr,  in  a  silver  filagree  vessel,  was 
then  pi-esented  to  the  Gaja  Raja ;  she  took  a  portion  up  in  a 
little  spoon,  and  put  it  on  our  hands.     One  of  the  attendants 
presented  us  with  pan,  whilst  another  sprinkled  us  most  copiously 


HER    HIGHNESS    A    GOOD    JUDGE    01'    A    HORSE.  5 

with  rose-water  :  the  more  you  inundate  your  visitor  with  rose- 
water,  the  greater  the  compliment. 

This  being  the  signal  for  departure,  we  rose,  made  our  bahut 
bahut  adab  salara,  and  departed,  highly  gratified  with  our  visit 
to  her  Highness  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior. 

I4th. — My  relative  had  a  remarkably  beautiful  Arab,  and  as 
I  wished  to  show  the  Ba'I  a  good  horse,  she  being  an  excellent 
judge,  I  requested  him  to  allow  me  to  ride  his  Arab ;  and  that 
he  might  be  fresh,  I  sent  him  on  to  await  my  arrival  at  the 
zenana  gates.  A  number  of  Mahratta  horsemen  having  been 
despatched  by  her  Highness  to  escort  me  to  the  camp,  I  cantered 
over  with  them  on  my  little  black  horse,  and  found  the  beautiful 
Arab  impatiently  awaiting  my  arrival. 

"  With  the  champed  bit,  and  the  arched  crest, 
And  the  eye  of  a  listening  deer, 
And  the  spirit  of  fire  that  pines  at  its  rest, 
And  the  limbs  that  laugh  at  fear." 

Leetle  Paul's  description  of  his  "  courser  proud  "  is  beautiful ; 
but  his  steed  was  not  more  beautiful  than  the  Arab,  who, 
adorned  with  a  garland  of  freshly-gathered  white  double  jasmine 
flowers,  pawed  impatiently  at  the  gates.  I  mounted  him,  and 
entering  the  precincts  of  the  zenana,  found  myself  in  a  large 
court,  where  all  the  ladies  of  the  ex-Queen  were  assembled,  and 
anxiously  looking  for  the  English  lady,  who  would  ride  crooked  ! 
The  Ba'i  was  seated  in  the  open  air  ;  I  rode  up,  and,  dismounting, 
paid  my  respects.  She  remarked  the  beauty  of  the  Arab,  felt 
the  hollow  under  his  jaw,  admired  his  eye,  and,  desiring  one  of 
the  ladies  to  take  up  his  foot,  examined  it,  and  said  he  had  the 
small,  black,  hard  foot  of  the  pure  Arab ;  she  examined  and 
laughed  at  my  saddle.  I  then  mounted,  and  putting  the  Arab 
on  his  mettle,  showed  her  how  English  ladies  manage  their 
horses.  When  this  was  over,  three  of  the  Baiza  Bu'i's  own 
riding  horses  were  brought  out  by  the  female  attendants  ;  for  we 
were  within  the  zenana,  where  no  man  is  allowed  to  enter.  The 
horses  were  in  full  caparison,  the  saddles  covered  with  velvet  and 
kimkwhab  and  gold  embroidery,  their  heads  and  necks  ornamented 


6  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

with  jewels  and  chains  of  gold.  The  Gaja  Rajii,  in  her  Mahratta 
riding  dress,  mounted  one  of  the  horses,  and  the  ladies  the  others  ; 
they  cantered  and  pranced  about,  showing  off  the  Mahratta  style  of 
riding.  On  dismounting,  the  young  Gaja  Raja  threw  her  horse's 
bridle  over  my  arm,  and  said,  laughingly,  "Are  you  afraid?  or 
will  you  try  my  horse?"  Who  could  resist  such  a  challenge ? 
"  I  shall  be  delighted,"  was  my  reply.  "  You  cannot  ride  like 
a  Mahratta  in  that  dress,"  said  the  Princess ;  "  put  on  proper 
attire."  I  retired  to  obey  her  commands,  returning  in  Mahratta 
costume,  mounted  her  horse,  put  my  feet  into  the  great  iron 
stirrups,  and  stai'ted  away  for  a  gallop  round  the  enclosure.  I 
thought  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  her  stupidity  in  changing  the 
style  of  riding  for  women.  En  cavalier,  it  appeared  so  safe, 
as  if  I  could  have  jumped  over  the  moon.  Whilst  I  was  thus 
amusing  myself,  "  Shah-bash !  shah-biish !"  exclaimed  some  mas- 
cuhne  voice ;  but  who  pronounced  the  words,  or  where  the 
speaker  lay  perdu,  I  have  never  discovered. 

"  Now,"  said  I  to  the  Gaja  Raja,  "  having  obeyed  your  com- 
mands, will  you  allow  one  of  your  ladies  to  ride  on  my  side- 
saddle?" My  habit  was  put  on  one  of  them  ;  how  ugly  she 
looked!  "  She  is  like  a  black  doctor!"  exclaimed  one  of  the 
girls.  The  moment  I  got  the  lady  into  the  saddle,  I  took  the 
rein  in  my  hand,  and  riding  by  her  side,  started  her  horse  off  in 
a  canter ;  she  hung  on  one  side,  and  could  not  manage  it  at  all ; 
suddenly  checking  her  horse,  I  put  him  into  a  sharp  trot.  The 
poor  lady  hung  half  off  the  animal,  clinging  to  the  pummel,  and 
screaming  to  me  to  stop  ;  but  I  took  her  on  most  unmercifiilly, 
until  we  reached  the  spot  where  the  Baiza  Bii'I  was  seated  ;  the 
walls  rang  with  laughter ;  the  lady  dismounted,  and  vowed  she 
would  never  again  attempt  to  sit  on  such  a  vile  crooked  thing  as 
a  side-saddle.  It  caused  u  great  deal  of  amusement  in  the 
camp. 

"  Qui  vit  sans  folie  n'est  pas  s!  sage  qu'il  cro!t." 

The  Mahratta  ladies  live  in  parda,  but  not  in  such  strict  seclu- 
sion as  the  Musalmiini  ladies  ;  they  are  allowed  to  ride  on  horse- 
back veiled ;  when  the  Gaja  Raja  goes  out  on  horseback,  she  is 


THE    PILGRIM    RECEIVES    A    TITLE.  7 

attended  by  her  ladies ;  and  a  number  of  Mahratta  horsemen 
ride  at  a  certain  distance,  about  two  hundred  yards  around  her, 
to  see  that  the  kurk  is  enforced ;  wliich  is  an  order  made  public 
that  no  man  may  be  seen  on  the  road  on  pain  of  death. 

The  Hindoos  never  kept  their  women  in  parda,  until  their 
country  was  conquered  by  the  Muhammadans  ;  when  they  were 
induced  to  follow  the  fashion  of  their  conquerors ;  most  hkely, 
from  their  unveiled  women  being  subject  to  insult.  ; 

The  Baiza  Ba'i  did  me  the  honour  to  express  herself  pleased, 
and  gave  me  a  title,  "The  Great-aunt  of  my  Grand-daughter," 
"  Gaja  Raja  Sahib  ki  par  Khala."  This  was  very  complimen- 
tary, since  it  entitled  me  to  rank  as  the  adopted  sister  of  her 
Highness. 

A  part  of  the  room  in  which  the  ex-Queen  sits  is  formed  into 
a  domestic  temple,  where  the  idols  are  placed,  ornamented  with 
flowers,  and  worshipped ;  at  night  they  are  lighted  up  with 
lamps  of  oil,  and  the  priests  are  in  attendance. 

The  Mahratta  ladies  are  very  fond  of  sailing  on  the  river,  but 
they  are  equally  in  parda  in  the  boats  as  on  shore. 

The  next  day  the  Biiiza  Bii'i  sent  down  all  her  horses  in 
their  gay  native  trappings,  for  me  to  look  at ;  also  two  fine 
rhinoceroses,  which  galloped  about  the  grounds  in  their  heavy 
style,  and  fought  one  another;  the  Ba'I  gave  five  thousand 
rupees  (£500)  for  the  pair  ;  sweetmeats  and  oranges  pleased  the 
great  animals  very  much. 

When  Captain  Ross  quitted,  her  Highness  was  placed  under 
the  charge  of  the  agent  to  the  Governor-general.  I  visited  the 
Bii'I  several  times,  and  liked  her  better  than  any  native  lady  I 
ever  met  with. 

A  Hindoo  widow  is  subject  to  great  privations ;  she  is  not 
allowed  to  wear  gay  attire  or  jewels,  and  her  mourning  is  eternal. 
The  Biiiza  Ba'I  always  slept  on  the  ground,  according  to  the 
custom  for  a  widow,  until  she  became  very  ill  from  rheumatic 
pains  ;  after  which  she  allowed  herself  a  hard  mattress,  which 
was  placed  on  the  ground ;  a  charpai  being  considered  too  great 
a  luxury. 

She  never  smoked,  which  surprised  me  :    having   seen   the 


8  WANDERINfiS    Or    A    PILGRIM. 

MusalmanI  ladies  so  fond  of  a  hooqii,  I  concluded  the  Mabratta 
ladies  indulged  in  the  same  luxury. 

The  Mahratta  men  smoke  the  hooqii  as  much  as  all  other 
natives ;  and  the  Ba'I  had  a  recipe  for  making  tobacco  cakes, 
that  were  highly  esteemed  in  camp.  The  cakes  are,  in  diameter, 
about  four  inches  by  one  inch  in  thickness ;  a  small  quantity 
added  to  the  prepared  tobacco  usually  smoked  in  a  hooqii 
imparts  great  fragrance ;  the  ingredients  are  rather  difficult  to 
procure '. 

Speaking  of  the  privations  endured  by  Hindoo  widows,  her 
Highness  mentioned  that  all  luxurious  food  was  denied  them,  as 
well  as  a  bed ;  and  their  situation  was  rendered  as  painful  as 
possible.     She  asked  me  how  an  English  widow  fared  ? 

I  told  her,  "An  English  lady  enjoyed  all  the  luxury  of  her 
husband's  house  during  his  hfe ;  but,  on  his  death,  she  was 
turned  out  of  the  family  mansion,  to  make  room  for  the  heir, 
and  pensioned  off ;  whilst  the  old  horse  was  allowed  the  run  of 
the  park,  and  permitted  to  finish  his  days  amidst  the  pastures 
he  loved  in  his  prime."  The  Hindoo  widow,  however  young, 
must  not  marry  again. 

The  fate  of  women  and  of  melons  is  alike.  "  Whether  the 
melon  falls  on  the  knife  or  the  knife  on  the  melon,  the  melon  is 
the  sufierer^" 

We  spoke  of  the  severity  of  the  laws  of  England  with  respect 
to  married  women,  how  completely  hy  law  they  are  the  slaves  of 
their  husbands,  and  how  little  hope  there  is  of  redress. 

You  might  as  well  "Twist  a  rope  of  sand',"  or  "Beg  a 
husband  of  a  widow*,"  as  urge  the  men  to  emancipate  the 
white  slaves  of  England. 

"  Who  made  the  laws?  "  said  her  Highness.  I  looked  at  her 
with  surprise,  knowing  she  could  not  be  ignorant  on  the  subject. 
"  The  men,"  said  I ;  "  why  did  the  Mahiiraj  ask  the  question  ?  " 
"  I  doubted  it,"  said  the  Bii'i,  with  an  arch  smile,  "  since  they 
only  allow  themselves  one  wife." 

•"England  is  so  small,"  I  replied,  "in  comparison  with  your 

'  Appendix,  No.  30.  »  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  103. 

'  Ibid.  No.  101.  «  Ibid.  No.  105. 


SUPERSTITIONS    OF    THE    NATIVES.  9 

Highness's  Gwalior  ;  if  every  man  were  allowed  four  wives,  and 
obliged  to  keep  them  separate,  the  little  island  could  never  con- 
tain them  ;  they  would  be  obliged  to  keep  the  women  in  vessels 
off  the  shore,  after  the  fashion  in  which  the  Chinese  keep  their 
floating  farmyards  of  ducks  and  geese  at  anchor." 

"  Is  your  husband  angry  with  you?"  asked  the  Brija,  the 
favourite  attendant  of  her  Highness.  "  Why  should  you  ima- 
gine it?"  said  I.  "Because  you  have  on  no  ornaments,  no 
jewellery." 

The  Baiza  Ba'i  sent  for  the  wives  of  Appa  Sahib  to  introduce 
them  to  me.  The  ladies  entered,  six  in  number ;  and  walking 
up  to  the  gaddi,  on  which  the  Ba'i  was  seated,  each  gracefully 
bowed  her  head,  until  her  forehead  touched  the  feet  of  her 
Highness.  They  were  fine  young  women,  from  fifteen  to  twenty- 
five  years  old.  The  five  first  wives  had  no  offspring  ;  the  sixth, 
who  had  been  lately  married,  was  in  expectation  of  a  biiba. 

Appa  Siihib  is  the  son-in-law  of  the  ex-Queen ;  he  married 
her  daughter,  the  Chimna  Ba'i,  who  died  of  fever  at  the  time 
they  were  driven  out  of  Gwahor. 

SUPERSTITIONS    OF    THE    NATIVES. 

The  natives  are  extremely  superstitious  respecting  the  lucky 
and  unlucky  marks  on  horses.  The  following  are  some  of  the 
marks  best  known,  respecting  which  their  ideas  are  curious  : 

The  favourable  marks  are  the  deoband,  the  bhora,  and  the 
panch  kalian. 

The  unlucky  marks  or  aiibs  are  the  sampan,  siyah-talu,  small 
eyes,  and  a  star  of  a  particular  sort  on  the  forehead. 

The  deoband  is  the  feather  on  the  chest :  this  mark  is  very 
rare,  and  the  best  of  all  marks.  If  a  horse  have  the  deoband, 
it  is  the  rok  or  antidote  to  the  sampan  and  all  other  bad 
marks. 

The  bhorahs  are  the  two  feathers,  one  on  each  side  of  the 
neck,  just  under  the  mane.  If  there  be  two  bhorahs  turning 
towards  the  ears  of  the  horse  it  is  favourable,  a  very  good  sign. 
If  there  be  only  one  bhora  it  is  tolerably  good.  If  the  feather 
turn  towards  the  rider  it  is  called  the  sampan ;  a  bhora  on  one 


10  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

side  and  a  sampan  on  the  other  neutralizes  both  bad  and  good 
qualities. 

The  panch  kalian.  The  natives  admire  a  patch-kalian,  as  they 
call  it,  very  much,  that  is,  a  horse  with  five  marks,  as  follows  : — 
all  four  legs  white  to  the  knees,  stockings  as  they  are  called, 
and  a  white  muzzle  with  a  white  blaze  from  the  muzzle  up  the 
forehead.  According  to  my  idea,  such  a  horse  in  appearemce  is 
only  fit  for  a  butcher's  tray.  Nevertheless,  the  natives  admire 
them,  and  I  have  seen  many  good  horses  of  this  description. 

The  sampan.  When  the  feather  on  the  neck  of  a  horse  on 
either  side  turns  towards  the  rider,  it  is  called  sampan ;  this  is  a 
very  bad  mark,  indeed  the  worst ;  but,  if  there  be  two  sampans, 
one  on  each  side  the  neck,  have  nothing  to  say  to  the  animal, 
he  is  an  Haramziida,  given  to  rearing  and  squalling  ;  is  vicious, 
and  will  be  the  death  of  his  rider. 

The  siyah-talu  or  black  palate  is  a  very  bad  sign  ;  such  horses 
are  regularly  bad,  and  are  never  to  be  depended  upon :  no 
native  will  purchase  an  animal  having,  as  it  is  usually  called, 
the  shatdloo. 

Small  eyes  are  the  sign  of  a  sulky  horse. 

The  star  on  the  forehead.  No  native  will  purchase  a  horse 
if  he  can  cover  the  star  on  the  forehead  with  the  ball  of  his 
thumb.  And  in  buying  a  horse  from  a  native,  look  to  that 
mark,  as  they  take  the  white  hairs  out  with  a  certain  application. 
A  large  star  is  a  good  sign.  No  star  at  all  is  of  no  consequence  ; 
but  a  few  white  hairs  proclaim  a  bad  horse,  and  no  native  will 
buy  him. 

With  respect  to  the  colour  of  horses,  they  are  fanciful. 
Greys  are  admu-ed  :  black  horses  are  also  considered  handsome  : 
bays  are  good :  chestnuts  very  bad. 

With  regard  to  Arabs,  they  are  extremely  particular  as  to  the 
perfect  straightness  of  the  forehead,  from  the  top  of  it  down  to 
the  nose  ;  the  shghtest  rise  on  that  part  proving  in  their  ideas  a 
want  of  perfect  pedigree.  The  deep  hoUow^  under  the  jaw  is 
absolutely  necessary ;  the  small  mouth,  and  the  open,  large, 
thin-skinned  nostrils ;  the  eyes  large  and  fine ;  the  hoof  small, 
bhick,  and  hard ;  and  the  long  tail.     These  points  attract  the 


LUCKY    AND    UNLUCKY    MARKS    ON    HORSES.  11 

particular  attention  of  the  natives.  "  Bay  in  all  his  eight 
joints  '."     Horses  of  that  colour  are  esteemed  hardy  and  active. 

The  prophet  judged  shical  bad  in  a  horse  :  shic^  is,  when  a 
horse  has  the  right  hind-foot  and  the  left  fore-foot,  or  the  right 
fore-foot  and  the  left  hind-foot,  white. 

The  amble  of  a  native  horse  is  a  quiet,  quick  pace,  but  not 
agreeable  at  first  to  one  accustomed  to  the  paces  of  horses 
broken  in  by  Europeans  :  the  Mahratta  bit  is  extremely  sharp, 
and  throws  a  horse  well  on  his  haunches. 

I  have  seen  a  young  horse,  being  taught  to  amble,  with  a 
rope  tied  to  each  fetlock  ;  it  made  him  take  short  steps,  moving 
the  two  legs  of  the  same  side  at  the  same  time  ;  it  is  a  natural 
pace  to  a  horse  over-loaded. 

Horses  in  India  are  usually  fastened  with  two  ropes  to  the 
head  stall,  and  the  two  hind-legs  have  a  rope  fastened  on  each 
fetlock,  which  rope  is  secured  to  a  stake  behind  the  animal, 
long  enough  to  allow  of  his  lying  down :  these  are  called  agarl- 
pichhiirl. 

In  Shakespear's  Dictionary,  hirdawal  is  mentioned  as  the 
name  of  a  defect  in  horses,  and  its  being  a  feather  or  curling 
lock  of  hair  on  the  breast,  which  is  reckoned  unlucky  for  the 
rider. 

It  is  written,  speaking  of  the  Prophet  Mohammud,  "  There 
was  nothing  his  Highness  was  so  fond  of,  after  women^  as 
horses ;  and  after  horses  as  perfumes ;  and  the  marks  of  good 
horses  are  these :  the  best  horses  are  black,  with  white  fore- 
heads, and  having  a  white  upper  Up ;  next  to  that,  a  black 
horse,  with  white  forehead  and  three  white  legs ;  next  to  this  is 
a  bay  horse  of  these  marks  :  a  bay,  with  white  forehead,  white 
fore  and  hind  legs,  is  best ;  and  a  sorrel  with  white  fore  and 
hind  legs  is  also  good.  Prosperity  is  with  sorrel  horses.  I 
heard  the  Prophet  say,  '  Do  not  cut  the  hair  of  your  horses' 
foreheads,  nor  of  their  necks,  nor  of  their  tails ;  because  verily 
horses  keep  the  flies  off  with  their  tails,  and  their  manes  cover 
their  necks,  and  blessings  are  interwoven  with  the  hair  of  their 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  106. 


12  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM. 

foreheads,'  'Tie  up  your  hoi-ses  and  make  them  fat  for 
fighting,  and  wipe  off  the  dust  from  their  foreheads  and  rumps  ; 
and  tie  bells  to  their  necks.'  " 

This  latter  command  is  curious,  as  in  the  "  Rites  of  Tra- 
velling "  it  is  mentioned,  "  The  angels  are  not  with  that  party 
with  which  is  a  dog,  nor  with  that  party  with  which  is  a  bell." 
"  A  bell  is  the  devil's  musical  instrument."  "Kill  black  dogs 
having  two  white  spots  upon  their  eyes  ;  for  verily  this  kind  of 
dog  is  the  devil." 

The  natives  cannot  understand  why  Europeans  cut  off  the  tails 
of  their  horses,  and  consider  it  a  disgusting  and  absurd  practice. 
An  officer  in  the  artillery  related  a  story  of  having  sold  an  old 
Persian  horse,  with  a  tail  sweeping  the  ground,  to  a  friend  at 

Fathlghar.     When   the   sa'is   returned,  Captain  A asked 

him  how  the  horse  was  liked,  and  if  he  was  well.  "  Ahi, 
Sahib  !  "  said  the  sa'is,  "  I  had  no  sooner  delivered  him  up  than 
they  cut  off  his  tail,  and  the  poor  old  horse  was  of  such  high 
caste  that  he  could  not  bear  such  an  indignity,  and  next  morn- 
ing he  died  of  shame  !''  "  Sharmandi  ho  mar-gaya."  The 
English  may  be  a  very  civilized  nation,  but  this  cutting  off  the 
tails  of  their  horses,  nicking  the  bone,  and  scoring  fish  alive, 
savour  somewhat  of  barbarism :  all  that  can  be  urged  in  its 
defence  is,  it  is  the  custom  (dastur) . 

The  natives  are  extremely  superstitious,  and  delight  in  incan- 
tations. "  God  save  you,  uncle  !"  is  the  address  of  a  Hindoo 
to  a  goblin,  of  which  he  is  afraid,  to  prevent  its  hurting  him '. 

Her  Highness  the  Biiiza  Ba'i,  having  heard  of  the  great  fame 
of  my  cabinet  of  curiosities,  requested  some  tigers'  claws  for  the 
Gaja  Raja.  I  wrote  to  a  friend  in  Assam,  who  sent  me  a  quart 
of  tigers'  claws  !  regretting  he  was  unable  to  procure  more. 
If  you  kill  a  tiger,  the  servants  steal  his  claws  as  quickly  as 
possible  to  send  to  their  wives  to  make  into  charms,  which  both 
the  women  and  children  wear  around  their  necks.  They  avert 
the  evil  eye  and  keep  off  maladies.  The  Gaja  Raja  was 
pleased  at  having  procured  the  claws,  and  her  horse's  neck  was 

'  Oriental  Proverbs  and  Sayings,  No.  107. 


TIGER-CLAW    CHARMS.  13 

adorned  with  some  five-and-twenty  ornaments  or  more  strung 
together,  each  made  hke  the  one  appended  to  the  chain  in  the 
sketch  ;  it  must  have  been  valuable,  being  formed  of  pure  gold. 

The  charm.  No.  1  in  the  sketch,  I  had  made  by  my  own  work- 
man in  the  bazar,  in  solid  silver,  a  copy  from  a  necklace  worn 
by  the  wife  of  one  of  my  servants  Dilmir  Khan.  "  Not  one,  but 
seventy  misfortunes  it  keeps  off '."  The  tiger's  claws  are 
tipped  and  set  in  silver  ;  the  back  opens  with  a  hinge,  and  the 
Jadu-ke-Bat,  a  written  charm,  is  therein  concealed,  the  efficacy 
of  which,  added  to  the  claws,  ensures  certain  prosperity  to 
the  possessor,  and  averts  the  evil  eye.  No  lady  in  India  can 
wear  any  thing  so  valueless  as  silver,  of  which  the  ornaments 
made  for  her  servants  are  composed.  Whether  Musalmani  or 
Hindoo,  the  women  are  delighted  with  the  claws  of  the  tiger. 
When  an  amulet,  in  form  like  No.  2  in  the  sketch,  is  made  for 
a  child,  two  of  the  teeth  of  the  crocodile  are  put  into  it  in  lieu 
of  tigers'  claws.  To-day  a  child  in  the  Fort  met  its  death  by 
accident.  The  natives  say,  "  How  could  it  be  lucky  when  it 
wore  no  charm  to  protect  it?"  Baghna  is  the  name  for  the 
amulet  consisting  of  the  teeth  and  claws  of  a  tiger,  which  are 
hung  round  the  neck  of  a  grown-up  person  or  of  a  child. 

The  Prophet  forbids  the  use  of  certain  amulets,  saying, 
"  Verily,  spells,  and  tying  to  the  necks  of  children  the  nails  of 
tearing  animals,  and  the  thread  which  is  tied  round  a  wife's  neck, 
to  make  her  husband  love  her,  are  all  of  the  way  of  the  poly- 
theists," 

"  It  is  the  custom  in  Hindoostan  to  keep  a  monkey  in  or  near 
a  stable,  to  guard  the  horses  from  the  influence  of  evil  eyes.  In 
Persia,  the  animal  so  retained  is  a  hog ;  and  in  some  parts  of 
England,  a  goat  is  considered  a  necessary  appendage  to  a  stable, 
though,  possibly,  from  some  other  equally  fanciful  motive." 

The  owl  is  considered  an  unlucky  bird.  "  One-eyed  men 
have  a  vein  extra  ^ ;"  and  are  supposed  to  be  more  knowing  thafi 
others.  And  I  have  before  mentioned  that  an  opinion  prevails 
in  wild  and  mountainous  parts  of  India,  that  the  spirit  of  a  man 

'  Oriental  Proverbs  and  Sayings,  No.  108.  '  Ibid.  109. 


14  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

destroj'cd  by  a  tiger  sometimes  rides  upon  his  head,  and  guides 
him  from  his  pursuers. 

I  have  never  seen  it  done  in  India,  but  I  have  heard  from  very 
good  authority,  that  there  are  men  who  profess  to  be  able  to 
tame  the  most  vicious  horse  by  whispering  into  his  ear  ;  a  man 
will  go  up  to  a  violent  animal,  whisper  to  it,  and  the  creature 
will  become  tranquil.  Catlin,  in  his  account  of  the  North 
American  Indians,  says  :  "  After  having  caught  a  wild  horse 
with  a  lasso,  the  Indian  gradually  advances  until  he  is  able  to 
place  his  hand  on  the  animal's  nose,  and  over  its  eyes,  and  at 
length  to  breathe  in  its  nostrils ;  when  it  soon  becomes  docile 
and  conquered,  so  that  he  has  little  else  to  do  than  to  remove 
the  hobbles  from  its  feet,  and  lead  or  ride  it  into  camp."  And 
in  another  part  of  the  work,  Catlin  says  :  "  I  have  often,  in  con- 
ciurence  with  a  known  custom  of  the  country,  held  my  hands 
over  the  eyes  of  the  calf,  and  breathed  a  few  strong  breaths  into 
its  nostrils ;  after  which  I  have,  with  my  hunting  companions, 
rode  several  miles  into  our  encampment,  with  the  little  prisoner 
busily  following  the  heels  of  my  horse  the  whole  way,  as  closely 
and  as  affectionately  as  its  instinct  would  attach  it  to  the  company 
of  its  dam !  This  is  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  things  I 
have  met  with  in  this  wild  country  ;  and  although  I  had  often 
heard  of  it,  and  felt  unable  exactly  to  believe  it,  I  am  now  willing 
to  bear  testimony  to  the  fact,  from  the  numerous  instances  I 
have  witnessed  since  I  came  into  the  country." 

In  explanation  of  the  coin,  marked  No.  9,  in  the  plate  entitled 
"  Superstitions  of  the  Natives,"  I  must  give  an  extract  from  the 
letter  of  a  friend : — 

"  To  entertain  that  amenity  so  requisite  for  the  obtaining  a 
note  from  you,  I  send,  under  the  seal  wherewith  I  seal  my  letter, 
'  a  little  money,'  as  a  first  instalment.  The  form  of  the  coin  is 
meant  to  be  octagonal ;  that  form  is  more  evident  on  those  that 
are  larger.  Now  for  the  coin's  explanation  :  It  bears  the  seal  of 
Eajah  Gowrinath  Singh,  who  succeeded  his  father  Luckhishingh, 
in  Assam,  1780  ;  he  was  of  a  hot  temper,  and  a  liberal.  After 
reigning  five  years,  he  was  expelled  by  Bhurrethi  Moran  Rajah 
of  Bengmoran.     Gowrinath  Singh  fled  to  Gowhatty,  and  having 


ASSAM    COINS.  15 

got  the  Company  to  take  his  part,  Captain  WaUis  was  sent  with 
an  armed  force  to  reinstate  him  on  the  throne ;  this  was  per- 
formed, but  at  the  cost  of  incredible  destruction  of  towns,  villages, 
cultivation,  and  all  that  sort  of  thing.  Since  those  days,  Assam 
has  been  a  jungle.  Finding  Rungpore,  his  capital,  depopulated, 
Gowrinath  caused  a  palace  to  be  built  on  the  banks  of  the 
Deshoi,  where  he  lived  in  tranquillity  ten  years  ;  the  place  became 
populous,  and  though  the  palace  has  fallen  into  ruins,  it  still 
exists  as  a  town,  under  the  name  of  Deshoi  Khote.  Gowrinath 
Singh  died  in  1795,  having  reigned  in  Assam  fifteen  years. 
I  will  send  you  his  inscription,  which  is  in  part  only  on  the  coin 
enclosed  ;  but  I  must  get  it  from  my  learned  Pundit.  Other  and 
older  coins  are  found,  both  of  gold  and  silver,  but  of  no 
baser  metal ;  copper  appears  to  have  been  unknown  for  that 
purpose." 

No.  10  is  the  larger  octagonal  coin  mentioned  in  the  above 
extract,  and  was  forwarded  to  me  as  a  second  instalment  from 
Assam. 


CHAPTER   XL. 


THE   NAWAB   HAKIM  MENHDI,  AND  CITY  OF  KANNOUJ. 

Zenana  of  the  Nawab  of  Fathighar — The  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdl — His  Attire 
and  Residence — Shawl  Manufactory — The  Muharram — Visit  to  the  Zenana 
of  the  Nawab — Lord  Brougham — Molineux  and  Tom  Crib — The  Burka — 
Departure  from  Fathighar — Return  to  Allahabad — Voyage  on  the  Ganges — • 
The  Legend  of  Kurrah — Secunder-al-Sani — The  SatI — A  Squall — Terror  of 
the  Sarang — The  Kala  Nad! — Ruins  of  Kannouj — The  Legend — Ancient 
Coins — Rosewater — Burning  the  Dead — Arrival  at  Fathighar. 

1835,  April  \5th. — I  received  an  invitation  to  pay  my  respects 
to  the  Begam  Moktar  Mahal,  the  mother  of  the  Nawab  of 
Fathigar ;  she  is  connected  with  Mulka  Begam's  family,  but 
very  unlike  her,  having  none  of  her  beauty,  and  not  being  a 
lady-like  person.  Thence  we  went  to  the  grandmother  of  the 
Nawab,  Surfuraz  Mahal,  in  the  same  zenana.  They  were  in 
mourning  for  a  death  in  the  family,  and  wept,  according  to 
dastur  (custom) ,  all  the  time  I  was  there :  they  were  dressed  in 
plain  white  attire,  with  no  ornaments ;  that  is  their  (matim) 
mourning.  The  young  Nawab,  who  is  about  twelve  years  old, 
is  a  fine  boy  ;  ugly,  but  manly  and  well-behaved. 

The  Nawab  Mootuzim  Adowlah  Menhdl  Ali  Khan  Bahadur, 
commonly  called  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdl,  lives  at  Fathigar ;  he 
was  unwell,  and  unable  to  call,  but  he  sent  down  his  stud  to  be 
shown  to  me,  my  fondness  for  horses  having  reached  his  ears. 

22nd. — I  visited  a  manufactory  for  Indian  shawls,  lately 
established  by  the  Hakim  to  support  some  people,  who,  having 
come  from  Cashmir,  were  in  distress  ;  and  as  they  were  originally 
shawl   manufacturers,   in  charity  he  gave  them    employment. 


INDIAN    SHAWL   MANUFACTORY.  17 

This  good  deed  is  not  without  its  reward ;  three  or  four  hundred 
workmen  are  thus  supported  ;  the  wool  is  brought  from 
Cashmir,  and  the  sale  of  the  shawls  gives  a  handsome  profit. 
I  did  not  admire  them;  they  are  manufactured  to  suit  the 
taste  of  the  English,  and  are  too  heavy  ;  but  they  are  handsome, 
and  the  patterns  strictly  Indian.  Colonel  Gardner's  Begam  said 
to  me  one  day,  at  Khasgunge,  "  Look  at  these  shawls,  how 
beautiful  they  are  !  If  you  wish  to  judge  of  an  Indian  shawl, 
shut  your  eyes  and  feel  it ;  the  touch  is  the  test  of  a  good  one. 
Such  shawls  as  these  are  not  made  at  the  present  day  in  Cash- 
mir ;  the  English  have  spoiled  the  market.  The  shawls  made 
now  are  very  handsome,  but  so  thick  and  heavy,  they  are  only 
fit  for  carpets,  not  for  ladies'  attire." 

2Gth. — The  Nawiib  Hakim  Menhdi  called,  bringing  with  him 
his  son,  a  man  about  forty  years  of  age,  called  "  The  General." 
He  invited  me  to  pay  him  and  the  Begam  a  visit,  and  wished  to 
show  me  his  residence. 

29th. — We  drove  to  the  Nawab's  house,  which  is  a  good  one  ; 
he  received  us  at  the  door,  and  took  my  arm,  instead  of  giving 
me  his.  He  is  a  fine-looking  old  man,  older  than  Colonel 
Gardner,  whom  in  style  he  somewhat  resembles ;  his  manners 
are  distinguished  and  excellent.  He  wore  an  embroidered  cap, 
with  a  silver  muslin  twisted  like  a  cord,  and  put  around  it,  as  a 
turban ;  it  was  very  graceful,  and  his  dress  was  of  white  muslin. 
The  rooms  of  his  house  are  most  curious  ;  more  like  a  shop  in 
the  China  baziir,  in  Calcutta,  than  any  thing  else  ;  full  of  lumber, 
mixed  with  articles  of  value.  Tables  were  spread  all  down  the 
centre  of  the  room,  covered  with  most  heterogeneous  articles : 
round  the  room  were  glass  cases,  full  of  clocks,  watches,  sun- 
dials, compasses,  guns,  pistols,  swords  ;  every  thing  you  can 
imagine  might  be  found  in  these  cases. 

The  Hakim  was  making  all  due  preparation  for  celebrating 
the  Muharram  in  the  most  splendid  style  ;  he  was  a  very  religious 
man,  and  kept  the  fast  with  wonderful  strictness  and  fortitude. 
A  very  lofty  room  was  fitted  up  as  a  Taziya  Khana,  or  house  of 
mourning ;  from  the  ceiling  hung  chandeliers  of  glass  of  every 
colour,  as  thickly  as  it  was  possible  to  place  them,  all  the  length 

VOL.   II.  c 


18  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

of  the  spacious  apartment ;  and  in  this  room  several  taziyas, 
very  highly  decorated,  were  placed  in  readiness  for  the  ceremony. 
One  of  them  was  a  representation  of  the  Mausoleum  of  the 
Prophet  at  Medina ;  another  the  tomb  of  Hussein  at  Karbala ; 
a  third,  that  of  Kasim ;  and  there  was  also  a  most  splendid 
Burak,  a  fac-simile  of  the  winged  horse,  on  which  the  Prophet 
made  an  excursion  one  night  from  Jerusalem  to  Heaven,  and 
thence  returned  to  Mecca.  The  angel  Gabriel  acted  as  celestial 
sa'is  on  the  occasion,  and  brought  the  animal  from  the  regions 
above.  He  must  have  been  a  fiery  creature  to  control  that 
winged  horse ;  and  the  effect  must  have  been  more  than  pictu- 
resque, as  the  Prophet  scudded  along  on  a  steed  that  had  the 
eyes  and  face  of  a  man,  his  ears  long,  his  forehead  broad,  and 
shining  Uke  the  moon  ;  eyes  of  jet,  shaped  like  those  of  a  deer, 
and  brilUant  as  the  stars ;  the  neck  and  breast  of  a  swan,  the 
loins  of  a  Uon,  the  tail  and  the  wings  of  a  peacock,  the  stature 
of  a  mule,  and  the  speed  of  lightning  ! — hence  its  name  Burak. 

In  front  of  the  taziyas  and  of  the  flying  horse  were  a  number 
of  standards;  some  intended  to  be  fac-similes  of  the  banner 
('alam)  of  Hussein :  and  others  having  the  names  of  particular 
martyrs.  The  banners  of  All  were  denominated,  "  The  Palm  of 
the  Hand  of  All  the  Elect ;"  "  The  Hand  of  the  Lion  of  God  ;" 
"  The  Palm  of  the  Displayer  of  Wonders  ;"  and  "  The  Palm  of 
the  Disperser  of  Diflliculties."  Then  there  was  the  "  Standard  of 
Fatima,"  the  daughter  of  the  Prophet,  and  wife  of  Ali ;  also 
that  of  Abbiis-i-'alam-dar,  the  standard-bearer ;  with  those  of 
Kasim,  All-akbar,  and  others  ;  the  banner  of  the  twelve  Imams  ; 
the  double-bladed  sword  of  All ;  and  the  nal-sahib.  There  wa^ 
also  the  neza,  a  spear  or  lance  dressed  up  with  a  turban,  the  ends 
flying  in  the  air,  and  a  lime  fixed  at  the  top  of  it ;  emblematic, 
it  is  said,  of  Hussein's  head,  which  was  carried  in  triumph 
through  different  cities,  by  the  order  of  Yuzeed,  the  King  of 
Shawm. 

The  nal-sahib  is  a  horse-shoe  affixed  to  the  end  of  a  long 
pole ;  it  is  made  of  gold,  silver,  metals,  wood,  or  paper,  and  is 
intended  as  an  emblem  of  Hussein's  horse. 

The  'Alam-i-KasTm,  or  Standard  of  Kasim  the  Bridegroom,  is 


THE    MCHARRAM.  "         19 

distinguished  by  its  having  a  little  chatr  in  gold  or  silver,  fixed 
on  the  top  of  it.  All  these  things  were  collected  in  the  long 
room  in  the  house  of  the  Nawiib,  ready  for  the  nocturnal  peram- 
bulations of  the  faithful. 

After  the  loss  of  the  battle  of  Kraabaallah,  the  family  of 
Hussein  were  carried  away  captive  with  his  son  Zein-ool-Abaidin, 
the  only  male  of  the  race  of  All  who  was  spared,  and  they  were 
sent  to  Medina.  With  them  were  carried  the  heads  of  the 
martjTS ;  and  that  of  Hussein  was  displayed  on  the  point  of  a 
lance,  as  the  cavalcade  passed  through  the  cities.  In  consequence 
of  the  remonstrances  and  eloquence  of  Zein-ool-Abaldin,  the 
orphan  son  of  Hussein,  the  heads  of  the  martyrs  were  given 
to  him ;  and  forty  days  after  the  battle  they  were  brought 
back  to  Kraabaallah,  and  buried,  each  with  its  own  body ;  the 
mourners  then  returned  to  Medina,  visited  the  tomb  of  the 
Prophet,  and  all  Medina  eventually  became  subject  to  Zein- 
ool-Abaidin. 

All,  the  son-in-law  of  Muhammad,  was,  according  to  the 
Shi 'as,  the  direct  successor  of  the  Prophet ;  they  not  acknow- 
ledging the  other  three  caliphs ;  but,  according  to  the  Sunnis, 
he  was  the  fourth  Khalifa,  or  successor  of  Muhammad. 

The  Muharram  concludes  on  the  fortieth  day,  in  commemo- 
ration of  the  interment  of  the  martyrs  at  Kraabaallah,  the  name 
of  a  place  in  Irak,  on  the  banks  of  the  Euphrates,  which  is 
also — and,  perhaps,  more  correctly — called  Karbala.  At  this 
place  the  army  of  Yuzeed,  the  King,  was  encamped ;  while  the 
band  of  Hussein,  including  himself,  amounting  only  to  seventy- 
two  persons,  were  on  the  other  side  of  an  intervening  jungle, 
called  Mareea. 

The  Nawab  is  a  very  public-spirited  man,  and  does  much 
good ;  he  took  me  over  a  school  he  founded,  and  supports,  for 
the  education  of  native  boys;  showed  me  a  very  fine  chita 
(hunting  leopard),  and  some  antelopes,  which  were  kept  foF 
fighting.  For  the  public  benefit,  he  has  built  a  bridge,  a  ghat» 
and  a  sara'e,  a  resting-place  for  travellers ;  all  of  which  bear 
his  name. 

The  Begam,  having  been  informed  that  I  was  with  the  Nawab, 

c  2 


20  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

sent  to  request  1  would  pay  a  visit  to  the  zenana,  and  a  day  was 
appointed  in  all  due  form. 

May  3rd. — The  time  having  arrived,  the  Nawab  came  to  the 
house  at  which  I  was  staying,  to  pay  me  the  compliment  of 
escorting  me  to  visit  the  Begam.  The  Muharram  having  com- 
menced, all  his  family  were  therefore  in  mourning,  and  could 
wear  no  jewels  ;  he  apologized  that,  in  consequence,  the  Begam 
could  not  be  handsomely  dressed  to  receive  me.  She  is  a  pretty 
looking  woman,  but  has  none  of  the  style  of  James  Gardner's 
Begam  ;  she  is  evidently  in  great  awe  of  the  Hakim,  who  rules, 
I  fancy,  with  a  rod  of  iron.  The  rooms  in  the  zenana  are  long 
and  narrow,  and  supported  by  pillars  on  the  side  facing  the 
enclosed  garden,  where  three  fountains  played  very  refreshingly, 
in  which  golden  fish  were  swimming.  The  Begam  appeared 
fond  of  the  fish,  and  had  some  beautiful  pigeons,  which  came  to 
be  fed  near  the  fountains  ;  natives  place  a  great  value  upon  par- 
ticular breeds  of  pigeons,  especially  those  obtained  from  Lucnow, 
some  of  which  bring  a  very  high  price.  It  is  customary  with 
rich  natives  to  keep  a  number  of  pigeons  ;  the  man  in  charge 
of  them  makes  them  manoeuvre  in  the  air  by  word  of  com- 
mand, or  rather  by  the  motions  of  a  long  wand  which  he  carries 
in  his  hand,  and  with  which  he  directs  the  flight  of  his  pigeons  ; 
making  them  wheel  and  circle  in  the  air,  and  ascend  or  descend 
at  pleasure.  The  sets  of  pigeons  consist  of  fifty,  or  of  hundreds  ; 
and  to  fly  your  own  in  mock  battle  against  the  pigeons  of  another 
person  is  an  amusement  prized  by  the  natives. 

Several  large  glass  cases  were  filled  in  the  same  curious  manner 
as  those  before  mentioned  ;  and  the  upper  panes  of  the  windows 
were  covered  with  English  prints,  some  coloured  and  some 
plain.  The  Hakim  asked  me  if  I  did  not  admire  them  ?  There 
was  Lord  Brougham;  also  a  number  of  prints  of  half-naked 
boxers  sparring;  Molineux  and  Tom  Cribb,  &c.,  in  most 
scientific  attitudes;  divers  characters  of  hunting  celebrity; 
members  of  Parliament  in  profusion ;  and  bright  red  and  blue 
pictures  of  females,  as  Spring,  Summer,  Autumn,  and  Winter  : — 
a  most  uncouth  collection  to  be  displayed  around  the  walls  of  a 
zenana  !     I  was  surprised  to  see  pictures  in  the  house  of  a  man 


VISIT    TO    THE    ZENANA    OF    THE    NAWAB.  21 

considered  to  be  so  religious  as  the  Nawab  ;  because  the  Prophet 
said,  "  Every  painter  is  in  hell-fire,  and  God  will  appoint  a  person 
at  the  day  of  resurrection,  for  every  picture  he  shall  have  drawn, 
to  punish  him  in  hell.  Then,  if  you  must  make  pictures,  make 
them  of  trees,  and  things  without  souls."  "And  whoever  draws 
a  picture  will  be  punished,  by  ordering  him  to  blow  a  spirit  into 
it ;  and  this  he  can  never  do ;  and  so  he  will  be  punished  as 
long  as  God  wills." 

"  The  angels  do  not  enter  the  house  in  which  is  a  dog,  nor 
into  that  in  which  are  pictures." 

I  spent  an  hour  in  the  zenana,  talking  to  the  old  Nawab ;  the 
Begam  scarcely  ventured  to  speak.  He  took  me  over  her  flower 
garden,  and  made  me  promise  I  would  never  pass  Fathighar 
without  paying  him  a  visit.  I  told  him  that  when  the  rains 
arrived,  I  should  come  up  in  the  pinnace,  having  promised  to 
revisit  my  relatives,  when  I  should  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing 
him  and  the  Begam  again.  He  pressed  me  to  stay  and  see  the 
ceremonies  of  the  Muharram ;  I  regretted  extremely  I  was 
obliged  to  return  home,  being  very  anxious  to  see  the  mourning 
festival  celebrated  in  all  state. 

I  happened  to  wear  a  ferroni^re  on  my  forehead ;  it  amused 
the  Begam  very  much,  because  it  somewhat  resembled  the  tika 
worn  by  the  women  of  the  East. 

His  first  Begam,  to  whom  he  was  much  attached,  died :  he 
sent  her  body  to  Mekka :  it  went  down  at  sea.  This  was 
reckoned  a  great  misfortune,  and  an  omen  of  ill  luck.  Four 
years  afterwards  he  married  the  present  Begam,  who  was  slave 
girl  to  the  former. 

Between  the  pauses  in  conversation  the  Nawab  would  fre- 
quently have  recourse  to  his  rosary,  repeating,  I  suppose,  the 
ninety-nine  names  of  God,  and  meditating  on  the  attributes  of 
each.  In  the  Qanoon-e-islam  it  is  mentioned,  "To  read  with 
the  use  of  a  tusbeeh  (or  rosary)  is  meritorious ;  but  it  is  an- 
innovation,  since  it  was  not  enjoined  by  the  prophet  (the  bless- 
ing and  peace  of  God  be  with  him !)  or  his  companions,  but 
established  by  certain  mushaeks  (or  divines).  They  use  the 
chaplet  in  repeating  the  kulma  (confession  of  faith)  or  durood 


22  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILORIM. 

(blessing),  one,  two,  or  more  hundred  times."  On  the  termi- 
nation of  my  visit  to  the  zenana,  the  Nawab  re-escorted  me 
to  the  house  of  the  friend  with  whom  I  was  staying. 

For  the  first  time,  I  saw  to-day  a  person  in  a  burkii  walking 
in  the  street ;  it  was  impossible  to  tell  whether  the  figure  was 
male  or  female ;  the  long  swaggering  strut  made  me  suppose 
the  former.  A  pointed  crown  was  on  the  top  of  the  head,  from 
which  ample  folds  of  white  linen  fell  to  the  feet,  entirely  con- 
cealing the  person.  Before  the  eyes  were  two  holes,  into  which 
white  net  was  inserted ;  therefore  the  person  within  could  see 
distinctly,  while  even  the  colour  of  the  eyes  was  not  discernible 
from  without.  The  burka'-posh,  or  person  in  the  burka', 
entered  the  house  of  the  Nawab.  The  dress  afterwards  was  sent 
me  to  look  at,  and  a  copy  of  it  was  taken  for  me  by  my  darzi 
(tailor).  It  is  often  worn  by  respectable  women,  who  cannot 
afford  to  go  out  in  a  palanquin,  or  in  a  doli. 

The  Hakim  was  fond  of  writing  notes  in  English,  some  of 
which  were  curious.  When  the  office  of  Commissioner  was 
done  away  with,  he  thought  the  gentleman  who  held  the 
appointment  would  be  forced  to  quit  Fathlghar.  The  old 
Hakim  wrote  a  singular  note,  in  which  was  this  sentence  :  "As 
for  the  man  who  formed  the  idea  of  doing  away  with  your 
appointment,  my  dear  friend,  may  God  blast  him  under  the 
earth."  However,  as  the  gentleman  remained  at  Fathlghar, 
and  the  Government  bestowed  an  appointment  equally  good  upon 
him,  the  Hakim  was  satisfied.  On  my  return  to  Allahabad, 
he  wrote  to  me,  and  desired  me  "  not  to  bury  his  friendship  and 
affection  in  oblivion." 

4th. — Paid  a  farewell  visit  to  her  Highness  the  ex-Queen  of 
Gwalior,  in  the  Maliratta  Camp,  and  quitted  Fathlghar  dak  for 
Allahabad.  A  brain  fever  would  have  been  the  consequence, 
had  I  not  taken  shelter  during  the  day,  as  the  hot  winds  were 
blowing,  and  the  weather  intensely  oppressive  ;  therefore  I  only 
travelled  by  night,  and  took  refuge  during  the  day. 

5th. — I  stopped  duing  the  day  at  the  house  of  a  gentleman  at 
Menhdl  Ghat,  which  was  built  by  the  Nawab,  as  well  as  the  sara'e 
at  Naramhow,  which  also  bears  his  name.  From  this  place  I  sent 


RETURN    TO    ALLAHABAD.  23 

to  Kaanouj  for  a  quantity  of  churls,  i.e.,  rings  made  of  sealing- 
wax,  very  prettily  ornamented  with  gold  foil,  beads,  and  colours  : 
the  old  woman,  who  brought  a  large  basketful  for  sale,  put  a 
very  expensive  set  on  my  arms  ;  they  cost  four  anas,  or  three 
pence  !  The  price  of  a  very  pretty  set  is  two  anas.  My  host 
appeared  surprised ;  he  must  have  thought  me  a  Pakka  Hin- 
dostani.  Kannouj  is  famed  for  the  manufacture  of  churls.  I 
wore  the  bracelets  for  two  days,  and  then  broke  them  off, 
because  the  sealing-wax  produced  a  most  annoying  irritation  of 
the  skin. 

6th. — I  spent  the  heat  of  the  day  with  some  kind  friends  at 
Cawnpore,  and  the  next  diik  brought  me  to  Fathlpoor.  The  day 
after,  I  spent  the  sultry  hours  in  the  dak  bungalow,  at  Shahzad- 
poor ;  and  the  following  morning  was  very  glad  to  find  myself 
at  home,  after  my  long  wanderings.  The  heat  at  times  in  the 
palkee  was  perfectly  sickening.  I  had  a  small  thermometer 
with  me,  which,  at  10  a.m.,  often  stood  at  93° ;  and  the  sides  of 
the  palanquin  were  hot  as  the  sides  of  an  oven.  The  fatigue 
also  of  travelling  so  many  nights  was  very  great ;  but  it  did  me 
no  harm. 

I  found  Allahabad  greatly  altered ;  formerly  it  was  a  quiet 
station,  it  had  now  become  the  seat  of  the  Agra  Government, 
and  Mr.  Blunt,  the  Lieut. -Governor,  was  residing  there.  I  had 
often  heard  Colonel  Gardner  speak  in  high  praise  of  this  gen- 
tleman, who  was  a  friend  of  his.  My  time  was  now  employed 
in  making  and  receiving  visits,  and  going  to  parties. 

\3th. — At  the  house  of  Mr.  F I  met  the  Austrian  tra- 
veller, Baron  H ;  he  requested  to  be  allowed  to  call  on  me 

the  next  day  to  see  my  collection  of  curiosities.  He  pro- 
nounced them  very  good,  and  promised  to  send  me  some  idols 
to  add  to  them.  I  gave  him  a  set  of  Hindoo  toe-rings,  the 
sacred  thread  of  the  Brahmans,  and  a  rosary,  every  bead  of 
which  was  carved  with  the  name  of  the  god  Ram.  Men  were 
deceivers  ever ;  the  promised  idols  were  never  added  to  my 
collection.  The  Lieut. -Governor's  parties,  which  were  very 
agreeable,  rendered  Allahabad  a  very  pleasant  station. 

Aug.  2nd. — I  went  to  the  mela  (fair)  held  within  the  grounds 


24  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

at  Papamhow.  To  this  place  we  had  sent  the  pinnace,  the 
Seagull;  and  on  the  10th  of  the  month  ray  husband  accom- 
panied me  two  days'  sail  on  my  voyage,  to  revisit  my  relations 
at  FathTghar,  after  which,  he  returned  to  Allahabad,  leaving  me 
and  the  great  spaniel  Nero  to  proceed  together.  The  daily 
occurrences  of  this  voyage  may  be  omitted,  only  recording  any 
adventure  that  occurred  during  the  course  of  it.  The  stream 
is  so  excessively  powerful,  that  at  times,  even  with  a  fine  strong 
breeze  and  thirteen  men  on  the  towing-line,  we  are  forced  to 
quit  the  main  stream,  and  proceed  up  some  smaller  branch, 
which  occasions  delay. 

Aug.  lAth. — Arrived  at  Kurrah,  a  celebrated  place  in  former 
days,  I  wished  to  go  on  shore  to  see  the  tomb  of  Shaikh  Karrick, 
and  to  have  a  canter  on  the  black  pony,  who  was  to  meet  me 
there ;  but  was  obliged  to  give  up  the  idea,  because  we  were 
compelled  to  go  up  the  other  side  of  the  river  in  consequence 
of  the  violence  and  rapidity  of  the  stream. 

In  A.D.  1295,  Alia,  the  son  of  Feroze,  the  second  King  of 
Delhi,  was  Governor  of  Kurrah  and  Subadar  of  Oude.  Alia 
made  an  expedition  into  the  Deccan,  and  returned  laden  with 
spoil.  Six  hundred  miin  of  pure  gold  ;  seven  mun  of  pearls ; 
two  mun  of  diamonds,  rubies,  emeralds,  cuid  sapphires ;  one 
thousand  miin  of  silver,  and  four  thousand  pieces  of  silk,  &c. 

The  King  of  Delhi,  wishing  to  share  in  his  nephew's  plunder, 
came  down  to  Kurrah.  Alia  met  him  when  his  boat  touched 
the  bank  of  the  river ;  and,  after  the  fondest  greetings,  made  a 
sign  to  two  men,  who  came  forward  and  murdered  the  king  on 
the  spot. 

They  relate,  that  when  Alia  visited  a  celebrated  sage.  Shaikh 
Karrick,  who  is  buried  at  Kurrah,  and  whose  tomb  is  held 
sacred  to  this  day,  he  rose  from  his  pillow,  and  repeated  an 
extempore  verse  to  the  following  purport : — "  He  cometh,  but 
his  head  shall  fall  in  the  boat,  and  his  body  in  the  Ganges," 
which,  they  say,  was  explained  an  hour  afterwards  by  the  death 
of  the  King  Feroze,  whose  head  was  thrown  into  the  boat  on 
that  occasion.  One  of  the  assassins  died  of  a  horrible  leprosy, 
which  dissolved  the  flesh  piecemeal  from  his  bones ;  the  other 


THE   SATI.  20 

went  mad,  and  incessantly  cried  out  that  Feroze  was  cutting  off 
his  head. 

This  detestable  Alia  seized  the  throne  of  Delhi,  and  reigned 
under  the  title  of  Alia  the  First.  He  proposed,  like  Alexander 
the  Great,  to  undertake  the  conquest  of  the  world.  In  conse- 
quence of  this  project,  he  assumed  the  title  of  Sekunder  al  Sani 
(Alexander  the  Second) ,  which  was  struck  upon  the  currency  of 
the  empire.  The  silver  coins  represented  in  the  sketch  (Fig.  6.) 
which  I  procured  at  Fathipoor,  were  found  in  a  field  five  miles 
from  Kurrah  ;  they  were  inscribed  a.d.  1313,  Sekunder  al  Sani. 
Never  was  there  such  a  wretch  as  this  Alia  the  First.  He 
died  A.D.  1316.  I  consider  the  coins  as  great  a  curiosity  as  the 
gentleman  considers  one  of  Thurtell's  ears,  which  he  has  pre- 
served in  spirits ! 

]6th. — Anchored  at  Maigong  in  rather  a  picturesque  spot, 
close  to  a  sati  mound.  By  the  side  of  the  mound  I  saw  the 
trunk  of  a  female  figure  beautifully  carved  in  stone.  The  head, 
arms,  and  part  of  the  legs  had  been  broken  off.  They  said  it 
was  the  figure  of  a  satl.  At  the  back  of  the  mound  was  a  very 
ancient  banyan- tree  ;  and  the  green  hills  and  trees  around  were 
in  all  the  freshness  and  luxuriance  of  the  rainy  season. 

The  next  morning,  to  my  surprise,  on  going  into  the  large 
cabin  to  breakfast,  there  was  the  figure  of  the  headless  satT 
covered  with  flowers,  and  at  the  spot  where  feet  were  not,  offer- 
ings of  gram,  boiled  rice,  &c.,  had  been  placed  by  some  of  the 
Hindoo  diindees.  "  How  came  you  possessed  of  the  sati?"  said 
I.  "The  mem  sahiba  admired  her,  she  is  here."  "  Chorl-ke- 
mal  na'Ich  hazm  hota,"  "  Stolen  food  never  digests,"  i.  e.,  "  111 
deeds  never  prosper,  the  poor  people  will  grieve  for  the  figure ; 
tell  the  sarang  to  lower  sail  and  return  her  to  them."  "  What 
words  are  these?"  replied  the  sarang,  "we are  miles  from  the 
spot ;  the  sati  has  raised  the  wind."  The  headless  lady  re- 
mained on  board. 

As  we  passed  the  residence  of  Rajii  Budannath  Singh,  he 
came  out  with  his  family  on  three  elephants  to  pay  his  respects, 
thinking  my  husband  was  on  board.     The  ladies  were  peeping 


26  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

from  the  house-top.  The  pinnace  passed  in  full  sail,  followed 
by  ten  immense  country  boats  full  of  magazine  stores,  and  the 
cook  boat.  Being  unable  at  night  to  cross  those  rivers,  we 
anchored  on  the  Oude  side.  I  did  not  much  admire  being  in 
the  domains  of  the  King  of  Lucnow  instead  of  those  of  the 
Company ;  they  are  a  very  turbulent  set,  those  men  of  Oude, 
and  often  pillage  boats.  The  vicinity  of  the  Raja's  house  was 
some  protection.  Riim  Din  had  the  matchlocks  of  the  sipahl 
guard  fired  off  by  way  of  bravado,  and  to  show  we  were  armed  ; 
the  lathis  (bamboos)  were  laid  in  readiness,  in  case  of  attack : 
the  watch  was  set,  and,  after  these  precautions,  the  mem  sahiba 
and  her  dog  went  to  rest  very  composedly. 

22nd. — Not  a  breath  of  air !  a  sun  intensely  hot ;  the  river  is 
like  a  silver  lake  ;  but  over  its  calm  the  vessel  does  not  ghde, 
for  we  are  fast  on  a  sandbank  !  Down  come  the  fiery  beams ; 
several  of  the  servants  are  ill  of  fever.  Heaven  help  them ;  I 
doctor  them  all,  and  have  killed  no  one  as  yet !  My  husband  will 
fret  himself  as  he  sits  in  the  coolness  of  the  house  and  thinks  of 
me  on  the  river.  The  vessel  was  in  much  difficulty  this  morning  ; 
the  conductor  of  some  magazine  boats  sent  forty  men  and 
assisted  her  out  of  it.  Lucky  it  was  that  chance  meeting  with 
the  conductor  in  this  Wilderness  of  Waters !  One  is  sure  to 
find  some  one  to  give  aid  in  a  difficulty,  no  doubt  through  the 
power  of  the  sati,  whom  they  still  continue  to  adorn  with  fresh 
flowers. 

25th. — After  a  voyage  of  fifteen  days  and  a  half  I  arrived  at 
Cawnpore ;  coming  up  the  reach  of  the  Ganges,  in  front  of 
Cantonments,  a  powerful  wind  was  in  our  favour.  The  Sea- 
gull gallantly  led  the  way  in  front  of  the  twelve  magazine 
boats  :  a  very  pretty  sight  for  the  Cawnporeans,  especially  as  a 
squall  overtook  us,  struck  us  all  into  picturesque  attitudes,  and 
sunk  one  of  the  magazine  boats,  containing  16,000  rupees 
worth  of  new  matchlocks.  Wlien  the  squall  struck  the  little 
fleet,  they  were  thrown  one  against  another,  the  sails  shivered, 
and  the  centre  boat  sank  like  a  stone.  Being  an  eye-witness  of 
this  scene,  I  was  afterwards  glad  to  be  able  to  bear  witness,  at 


A    SQUALL.  27 

the  request  of  the  conductor,  to  his  good  conduct,  and  the  care 
he  took  of  the  boats,  when  called  upon  by  the  magistrate  of  the 
place. 

28th. — Anchored  off  Bittoor  on  the  opposite  side.  I  re- 
gretted being  unable  to  see  the  place  and  Bajee  Row,  the  ex- 
Peshwa,  who  resides  there  on  an  allowance  of  eight  lakh  per 
annum.  Tn  1818,  he  submitted  to  the  Company,  abdicated  his 
throne,  and  retired  to  Bittoor  for  life.  It  would  have  given 
me  pleasure  to  have  seen  these  Mahrattas ;  but  the  channel  of 
the  stream  forced  me  to  go  up  the  other  side  of  the  river. 

The  Government  wish  the  Baiza  Ba'i  to  live  at  Benares  on 
six  liikh  a  year ;  but  the  spirited  old  lady  will  not  become  a 
pensioner,  and  refuses  to  quit  Fathighar.  She  has  no  incli- 
nation, although  an  Hindoo,  to  be  satisfied  with  "  A  little  to  eat 
and  to  live  at  Bunarus',"  especially  as  at  this  place  she  is  no 
great  distance  from  her  beloved  Gwalior. 

Sept.  2nd. — A  day  of  adventures.  Until  noon,  we  battled 
agEiinst  wind  and  stream :  then  came  a  fair  wind,  which  blew 
in  severe  squalls  and  storms.  Such  a  powerful  stream  against 
us ;  but  it  was  fine  sailing,  and  I  enjoyed  it  very  much.  At 
times  the  squalls  were  enough  to  try  one's  courage.  We 
passed  a  vessel  that  had  just  broken  her  mast :  the  stream 
carried  us  back  with  violence,  and  we  ran  directly  against  her ; 
she  crushed  in  one  of  the  Venetian  windows  of  the  cabin,  and 
with  that  damage  we  escaped.  Two  men  raising  the  sail  of 
another  vessel  were  knocked  overboard  by  the  squall,  and  were 
carried  away  with  frightful  velocity,  the  poor  creatures  calling 
for  help  :  the  stream  swept  them  past  us,  and  threw  them  on 
a  sandbank — a  happy  escape ! 

Anchored  at  Menhdl  ghiit ;  the  moon  was  high  and  brilliant, 
the  wind  roaring  around  us,  the  stream,  also,  roaring  in  concert, 
like  a  distant  waterfall  ;  the  night  cold  and  clear,  the  stars 
bright  and  fine ;  but  the  appearance  of  the  sky  foretold  more 
wind  and  squalls  for  the  morrow.  I  had  no  idea,  until  I  had 
tried  it,  how  much  danger  there  was  on  the  Gunga,  during  the 
height  of  the  rains ;  in  this  vessel  I  think   myself  safe,   but 

'  Oriental  Proverb*,  No.  110. 


28  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

certainly  I  should  not  admire  a  small  one.  All  the  vessels 
to-day  were  at  anchor ;  not  a  sail  was  to  be  seen  but  the  white 
sails  of  the  Seagull,  and  the  dark  ones  of  the  cook  boat,  the  latter 
creeping  along  the  shore,  her  miinjhl  following  very  unwillingly. 

My  sarang  says  the  quantity  of  sail  I  oblige  him  to  carry 
during  high  winds,  has  turned  "  his  stomach  upside  down  with 
alarm." 

3rd. — For  some  hours  the  next  morning  the  gale  continued  so 
violently,  we  could  not  quit  the  bank ;  a  gentleman  came  on 
board,  and  told  me,  by  going  up  a  stream,  called  the  Kali  NadI, 
I  should  escape  the  very  powerful  rush  of  the  Ganges ;  that  I 
could  go  up  the  NadI  twenty  miles,  and  by  a  canal,  cut  in 
former  days,  re-enter  the  Ganges  above. 

I  asked  him  to  show  me  the  ruins  of  Kannouj ;  we  put  off; 
it  was  blowing  very  hard  :  at  last  we  got  out  safely  into  the 
middle  of  the  stream.  About  a  mile  higher  up,  we  quitted  the 
roaring  and  rushing  waters  of  the  Ganges,  and  entered  the  placid 
stream  of  the  Kali  NadI.  Situated  on  a  hill,  most  beautifully 
wooded,  with  the  winding  river  at  its  feet,  stands  the  ancient 
city  of  Kannouj ;  the  stream  flowing  through  fine  green  meadows 
put  me  in  mind  of  the  Thames  near  Richmond.  In  the  Ganges 
we  could  scarcely  stem  the  current,  even  though  the  wind, 
which  was  fair,  blew  a  gale ;  in  the  NadI  we  furled  every  sail, 
and  were  carried  on  at  a  good  rate,  merely  by  the  force  of  the 
wind  on  the  hull  of  the  vessel,  and  the  non-opposition  of  the 
gentle  stream.  My  friend  told  me  he  had  once  thrown  a  net 
across  the  Kali  NadI,  near  the  entrance,  and  had  caught  one 
hundred  and  thirty-two  great  rhoee  fish.     On  the  hill  above 

stands  the  tomb  of  Colonel ;  who,  when  Lord  Lake's  army 

were  encamped  here  on  their  road  to  Delhi,  attempted  on  horse- 
back to  swim  the  NadI,  and  was  drowned. 

In  the  history  of  Kannouj,  it  is  said,  "  Rustum  Dista,  King  of 
the  Persian  province  of  Seistan,  conquered  India ;  he,  for  his 
great  exploits,  is  styled  the  Hercules  of  the  East ;  unwilling  to 
retain  so  distant  an  empire  as  a  dependent  on  Persia,  he  placed 
a  new  family  on  the  throne.  The  name  of  the  Prince  raised  to 
the  empire  by  Rustum  was  Suraja,  who  was  a  man  of  great 


RUINS    OF    KANNOUJ.  29 

abilities,  and  restored  the  power  of  the  empire.  This  dynasty 
commenced  about  1072  years  before  the  Christian  sera,  and  it 
lasted  two  hundred  and  eighty-six  years.  It  is  affirmed  by  the 
Brahmins,  that  it  was  in  the  time  of  this  dynasty  that  the 
worship  of  emblematical  figures  of  the  Divine  attributes  was 
first  established  in  India." 

The  Persians,  in  their  invasions,  they  say,  introduced  the 
worship  of  the  sun,  fire,  and  the  heavenly  bodies  ;  but  the 
mental  adoration  of  the  Divinity,  as  the  one  Supreme  Being,  was 
still  followed  by  many. 

The  great  city  of  Kannouj  was  built  by  one  of  the  Surajas,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Ganges ;  the  circumference  of  its  walls  is  said 
to  have  been  nearly  one  hundred  miles.  It  contained  thirty 
thousand  shops,  in  which  betel-nut  was  sold  ;  and  sixty  thousand 
bands  of  musicians  and  singers,  who  paid  a  tax  to  Government. 
In  A.D.  1016,  the  King  of  Ghizni  took  Kannouj,  "  a  city  which, 
in  strength  and  structure,  might  justly  boast  to  have  no  equal, 
and  which  raised  its  head  to  the  skies."  It  is  said,  "  The  Hin- 
dostanee  language  is  more  purely  spoken  in  Kannouj  than  in 
any  other  part  of  India." 

We  anchored  ;  and  after  tiffin,  Mr.  M accompanied  me  to 

see  the  tombs  of  two  Muhammadan  saints,  on  the  top  of  the 
hill.  Thence  we  visited  a  most  singular  Hindoo  building,  of  great 
antiquity,  which  still  exists  in  a  state  of  very  tolerable  preserva- 
tion ;  the  style  of  the  building,  one  stone  placed  on  the  top  of 
another,  appeared  to  me  more  remarkable  than  any  architecture 
I  had  seen  in  India.  A  further  account  of  this  ancient  building, 
with  a  sketch  annexed,  will  be  given  in  a  subsequent  chapter. 

The  fort,  which  is  in  ruins,  is  on  a  commanding  spot ;  the 
view  from  it  all  around  is  beautiful.  The  people  sometimes  find 
ancient  coins  amongst  the  ruins,  and  jewels  of  high  value ;  a 
short  time  ago,  some  pieces  of  gold,  in  form  and  size  like  thin 
bricks,  were  discovered  by  an  old  woman ;  they  were  very 
valuable.  The  Brahmans  brought  to  us  for  sale,  square  rupees, 
old  rupees,  and  copper  coins ;  but  none  of  them  were  Hindoo ; 
those  of  copper,  or  of  silver,  not  being  more  than  three  hundred 
years  old,  were  hardly  worth  having.     I  commissioned  them  to 


30  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

bring  me  some  gold  coins,  which  are  usually  genuine  and  good. 
A  regular  trade  is  carried  on  at  this  place  in  the  fabrication  of 
silver  and  copper  coins,  and  those  of  a  mixed  metal.  The  rose- 
water  of  Kannouj  is  considered  very  fine  ;  it  was  brought,  with 
other  perfumed  waters,  for  sale ;  also  native  preserves  and 
pickles,  which  were  inferior.  To  this  day  the  singers  of  Kannouj 
are  famous.  I  am  glad  I  have  seen  the  ruins  of  this  old  city, 
which  are  well  worth  visiting ;  I  did  not  go  into  the  modem 
town ;  the  scenery  is  remarkably  pretty.  I  must  revisit  this 
place  on  my  black  horse  ;  there  are  many  parts  too  distant  from 
each  other  for  a  walk ;  I  returned  very  much  fatigued  to  the 
pinnace.  A  great  many  Hindoo  idols,  carved  in  stone,  were 
scattered  about  in  all  directions,  broken  by  the  zeal  of  the 
Muhammadans,  when  they  became  possessed  of  Kannouj.  I 
shall  carry  some  oif  should  I  return  this  way. 

5th. — A  hot  day,  without  a  breath  of  air,  was  followed  by  as 
hot  a  night,  during  which  I  could  not  close  my  eyes ;  and  a 
cough  tore  my  chest  to  pieces. 

When  we  lugaoed,  I  saw  two  fires  by  the  side  of  the  stream ; 
from  one  of  which  they  took  up  a  half-burned  body,  and  flung 
it  into  the  river.  The  other  fire  was  burning  brightly,  and  a 
Hindoo,  with  a  long  pole,  was  stirring  it  up,  and  pushing  the 
corpse  of  his  father,  or  whoever  the  relation  was,  properly  into 
the  flames,  that  it  might  all  consume.  The  nearest  relation 
always  performs  this  ceremony.  The  evening  had  gathered  in 
darkly ;  some  fifteen  black  figures  were  between  us  and  the 
sunset,  standing  around  the  fire  ;  the  palm-trees,  and  some  huts, 
all  reflected  in  the  quiet  stream  of  the  Kali  NadI,  had  a  good 
effect ;  especially  when  the  man  with  the  long  pole  stirred  up 
his  bap  (father),  and  the  flames  glowed  the  brighter. 

I  was  glad  to  get  away,  and  anchor  further  on,  the  smell  on 
such  occasions  being  objectionable ;  it  is  a  horrible  custom,  this 
burning  the  corpse ;  the  poor  must  always  do  it  by  halves,  it 
takes  so  much  wood  to  consume  the  body  to  ashes. 

The  sirdar-bearer  of  an  ofllicer  died ;  the  gentleman  desired 
a  small  present  might  be  given  to  his  widow,  in  aid  of  the 
funeral.     At  the  end  of  the  month,  when  the  officer's  accounts 


ARRIVAL    AT    FATHIGHAR.  31 

were  brought  to  him  for  settlement,  he  found  the  following  item, 
"  For  roasting  sirdar-bearer,  five  rupees !  "     . 

Some  Hindoos  do  not  burn  their  dead  ;  I  saw  a  body  brought 
down  to  the  river-side  this  evening,  by  some  respectable-looking 
people  ;  they  pushed  the  corpse  into  the  stream,  and  splashed 
handfuls  of  water  after  it,  uttering  some  prayer. 

6th. — After  fighting  with  the  stream  all  day,  and  tiring  the 
crew  to  death  on  sandbanks,  and  pulling  against  a  terribly 
powerful  current,  we  were  forced  back  to  within  two  miles  of  our 
last  night's  anchorage ;  we  have  happily  found  a  safe  place  to 
remain  in  during  the  night ;  these  high  banks,  which  are  con- 
tinually falling  in,  are  very  dangerous.  Fortunately  in  the 
evening,  assisted  by  a  breeze,  we  arrived  at  the  canal ;  and 
having  passed  through  it  quitted  the  Kali  Nadi,  and  anchored 
in  the  deep  old  bed  of  the  Ganges. 

7th. — With  great  difficulty  we  succeeded  in  bringing  the 
pinnace  to  within  three  miles  of  Fathighar,  where  I  found  a 
palanquin  in  waiting  for  me;  the  river  being  very  shallow,  I 
quitted  the  vessel,  and,  on  my  arrival  at  my  friend's  house,  sent 
down  a  number  of  men  to  assist  in  bringing  her  up  in 
safety. 


CHAPTER   XLT. 


THE  MAHRATTA  CAMP  AND  SCENES  IN  THE  ZENANA. 

Mutiny  in  Camp — Murder  of  the  Prisoners — The  Mutiny  quelled  by  the  Mili- 
tary— Visit  to  the  Zenana — The  Swing  of  the  Gaja  Raja — The  Seagull  in 
Parda — The  Ba'i  visits  the  Pinnace— How  to  dress  a  Camel — The  vicious 
Beast — Lucky  and  Unlucky  Days — Her  Highness  ordered  to  Benares. 

1835,  Sept.  Sth. — A  deputation  arrived  from  her  Highness  the 
Biiiza  Bii'i,  claiming  protection  from  the  Agent  to  the  Govern- 
ment, on  account  of  a  mutiny  in  her  camp.  She  was  fearful  of 
being  murdered,  as  her  house  was  surrounded  by  three  hundred 
and  fifty  mutinous  soldiers,  armed  with  matchlocks  and  their 
palitas  ready  lighted.  The  mutineers  demanded  seven  months 
pay ;  and  finding  it  was  not  in  her  power  to  give  it  to  them, 
they  determined  to  have  recourse  to  force,  and  seized  her 
treasurer,  her  paymaster,  and  four  other  officers.  These  un- 
fortunate men  they  had  made  prisoners  for  seven  days,  keeping 
them  secured  to  posts  and  exposed  the  whole  day  to  the  sun, 
and  only  giving  them  a  little  sherbet  to  drink.  The  Agent  to  the 
Government  having  called  out  the  troops,  marched  down  with 
them  to  the  Mahratta  Camp,  where  they  seized  the  guns. 

The  mutineers  would  not  come  to  terms,  or  lay  down  their 
arms.  The  troops  spent  the  night  in  the  Camp ;  at  daybreak 
they  charged  into  the  zenana  compound,  killed  eight  mutineers, 
and  wounded  nine  :  the  guns  were  fired  at  the  Mahratta  horse- 
men, who  were  outside ;  after  which  the  men  leiid  down  their 
arms,  and  tranquillity  was  restored. 

The  magistrate  of  the  station,  who  had  gone  in  with  the  troops, 


THE    MUTINY    QUELLED    BY    THE    MILITARY.  33 

was  engaged  with  two  of  the  mutineers,  when  all  three  fell  into  a 
well ;  a  Mahratta  from  above  having  aimed  his  spear  at  him,  an 
ofBcer  struck  the  weapon  aside  and  killed  the  assailant ;  the  spear 
glanced  off  and  only  inflicted  a  slight  wound.     The  moment 

Colonel  J charged  the  mutineers  in  the  zenana  compound, 

they  murdered  their  prisoners,  the  treasurer  and  the  paymaster, 
in  cold  blood  ;  the  other  four  officers  escaped  in  the  tumult.  The 
greater  part  of  her  Highness's  troops  being  disaffected,  they  could 
not  be  trusted  to  quell  the  mutiny  ;  she  was  therefore  compelled 
to  ask  for  assistance.  It  was  feared  her  troops,  which  amounted 
to  eighteen  hundred,  might  attempt  to  plunder  the  city  and 
station,  and  be  off  to  Gwalior ;  and  there  being  only  two  hun- 
dred of  the  Company's  troops,  and  three  guns  at  Fathlghar,  the 
military  were  sent  for  from  other  stations,  and  a  large  body 
of  pohce  called  out.  The  Baiza  Ba'I  despatched  a  lady  several 
times  to  say  she  wished  me  to  visit  her  ;  this  was  during  the 
time  she  was  a  prisoner  in  her  house,  surrounded  by  the  muti- 
neers with  their  matches  lighted.  The  agent  for  the  Govern- 
ment would  not  allow  me  to  go,  lest  they  should  seize  and  keep 
me  a  prisoner  with  the  Bii'I's  officers.  I  was  therefore  obliged 
to  send  word  I  could  not  obey  the  commands  of  her  Highness 
on  that  account. 

Emissaries  from  Gwalior  are  at  the  bottom  of  all  this.  The 
camp  was  in  great  ferment  yesterday  :  it  would  be  of  no  con- 
sequence, if  we  had  a  few  more  troops  at  the  station ;  but  two 
hundred  infantry  are  sad  odds  against  eighteen  hundred  men,  one 
thousand  of  whom  are  horsemen  ;  and  they  have  three  guns  also. 

17 th. — Infantry  have  come  in  from  Mynpooree  and  cavalry 
from  Cawnpore,  therefore  every  thing  is  safe  in  case  the  Mah- 
rattas  should  mutiny  again. 

24th. — The  Governor-General's  agent  allowed  me  to  ac- 
company him  to  the  camp.  He  took  some  armed  horsemen 
from  the  police  as  an  escort  in  case  of  disturbance.  The  Baiza 
Ba'I  received  me  most  kindly,  as  if  I  were  an  old  friend.  I  paid 
my  respects,  and  almost  immediately  quitted  the  room,  as  affairs 
of  state  were  to  be  discussed.  The  Gaja  Raja  took  me  into  a 
pretty  little  room,  which  she  had  just  built  on  the  top  of  the 

VOL.  II.  D 


34  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

liouse  as  a  sleeping-room  for  herself.  Her  charpal  (bed)  swung 
from  the  ceiling ;  the  feet  were  of  gold,  and  the  ropes  by  which 
it  swung  were  covered  with  red  velvet  and  silver  bands.  The 
mattress,  stuffed  with  cotton,  was  covered  with  red  and  blue 
velvet :  the  cases  of  three  large  pillows  were  of  gold  and  red 
kimkhwab  ;  and  there  were  a  number  of  small  flat  round  pillows 
covered  with  velvet.  The  counterpane  was  of  gold  and  red 
brocade.  In  this  bed  she  sleeps,  and  is  constantly  swung  during 
her  repose.  She  was  dressed  in  black  gauze  and  gold,  with  a  pro- 
fusion of  jewellery,  and  some  fresh  flowers  I  had  brought  for  her 
were  in  her  hair.  She  invited  me  to  sit  on  the  bed,  and  a  lady 
stood  by  swinging  us.  The  Gaja  Raja  has  a  very  pretty  figure, 
and  looked  most  fairy-like  on  her  decorated  bed.  When  the  affairs 
of  state  had  been  settled,  we  returned  to  the  Ba'i.  Rose-water, 
pan,  and  atr  of  roses  having  been  presented,  I  took  my  leave. 

28th. — I  was  one  of  a  party  who  paid  a  visit  of  state  to 
her  Highness.  Nothing  remarkable  occurred.  As  we  were  on 
the  point  of  taking  our  departure,  the  Bii'i  said  she  had  heard 
of  the  beauty  of  my  pinnace,  and  would  visit  it  the  next 
morning.  This  being  a  great  honour,  I  said  I  would  be  in 
attendance,  and  would  have  the  vessel  anchored  close  to  the 
Ba'i's  own  ghat,  at  which  place  she  bathes  in  the  holy  Ganges. 
On  my  return  home,  a  number  of  people  were  set  hard  to  work, 
to  fit  the  vessel  for  the  reception  of  the  Ba'I.  Every  thing  Euro- 
pean was  removed,  tables,  chairs,  &c.  The  floors  of  the  cabins 
were  covered  with  white  cloth,  and  a  gaddl  placed  in  each  for 
her  Highness. 

29th. — ^The  vessel  was  decorated  with  a  profusion  of  fresh 
flowers ;  she  was  drawn  up  to  the  ghat,  close  to  a  flight  of 
steps ;  and  the  canvas  walls  of  tents  were  hung  around  her  on 
every  side,  so  that  no  spectators  could  see  within.  The  sailors 
all  quitted  her,  and  she  was  then  ready  to  receive  the  ladies  of 
the  Mahratta  camp.  Although  I  was  at  the  spot  at  4  a.m.,  the 
Ba'I  and  hundreds  of  her  followers  were  there  before  me.  She 
accompanied  me  on  board  with  all  her  ladies,  and  on  seeing 
such  a  crowd  in  the  vessel,  asked  if  the  numbers  would  not 
sink  her.     The  Ba'I  admired  the  pinnace  very  much ;  and  ob- 


THE    BAIZA    BaT    VISITS    THE    PINNACE.  35 

serving  the  satT,  which  stood  in  one  corner  of  the  cabin,  covered 
with  flowers,  I  informed  her  Highness  I  had  brought  the  head- 
less figure  to  eat  the  air  on  the  river ;  that  Ganges  water  and 
flowers  were  daily  offered  her  ;  that  her  presence  was  fortunate,  as 
it  brought  an  easterly  wind.  The  Ba'i  laughed  ;  and,  after  con- 
versing for  an  hour,  she  quitted  the  vessel,  and  returned  to  her 
apartment  on  the  ghat.  The  Gaja  Raja  and  her  ladies  went 
into  the  inner  cabin ;  Appa  Sahib,  the  Ba'I's  son-in-law,  came 
on  board  with  his  followers,  the  vessel  was  unmoored,  and  they 
took  a  sail  on  the  river.  The  scene  was  picturesque.  Some 
hundreds  of  Mahratta  soldiers  were  dispersed  in  groups  on  the 
high  banks  amongst  the  trees  ;  their  elephants,  camels,  horses, 
and  native  carriages  standing  near  the  stone  ghats,  and  by  the 
side  of  white  temples.  The  people  from  the  city  were  there  in 
crowds  to  see  what  was  going  forward.  On  our  return  from  the 
excursion  on  the  river,  I  accompanied  the  Gaja  Raja  to  the 
Ba'i ;  and,  having  made  my  salam,  returned  home,  not  a  little 
fatigued  with  the  exertion  of  amusing  my  guests.  During  the 
time  we  were  on  the  water,  Appa  Sahib  played  various  Hin- 
dostanee  and  Mahratta  airs  on  the  sitar.  It  must  have  been  a 
great  amusement  to  the  zenana  ladies,  quite  a  gaiety  for  them, 
and  a  variety  in  their  retired  mode  of  life.  They  were  all  in 
their  holiday  dresses,  jewels,  and  ornaments.  Some  wore 
dresses  of  bright  yellow,  edged  with  red,  with  black  Cashmere 
shawls  thrown  over  their  shoulders  ;  this  costume  was  very 
picturesque.  The  Gaja  Riija  wore  a  dress  of  black  and  gok', 
with  a  yellow  satin  tight  body  beneath  it ;  enormous  pearls  in 
profusion,  ornaments  of  gold  on  her  arms,  and  silver  ornaments 
on  her  ankles  and  toes  ;  slippers  of  crimson  and  gold. 

Oct.  2nd. — The  Ganges  at  Farrukhabad  is  so  full  of  sand- 
banks, and  so  very  shallow,  that  fearing  if  I  detained  the 
pinnace,  I  might  have  some  chance  of  being  unable  to  get  her 
dowTi  to  Cawnpore,  I  sent  her  oflf  with  half  the  servants  to  that 
place  to  await  my  arrival ;  I  shall  go  dak  in  a  palanquin,  and 
the  rest  of  the  people  can  float  down  in  the  cook  boat. 

7th. — I  called  on  the  Ba'i  ;  and  while  she  was  employed  on 
state  affairs,  retired  with  the  Gaja  Rajii  to  the  pretty  little  room 

d2 


36  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

before  mentioned.  There  I  found  a  Hindoo  idol,  dressed  in 
cloth  of  gold,  and  beads,  lying  on  the  floor  on  a  little  red  and 
purple  velvet  carpet.  Two  other  idols  were  in  niches  at  the  end 
of  the  room.  The  idol  appeared  to  be  a  plaything,  a  doll :  I 
suppose,  it  had  not  been  rendered  sacred  by  the  Brahmans.  An 
idol  is  of  no  value  until  a  Brahman  dip  it,  with  divers  prayers 
and  ceremonies,  into  the  Gunga  -,  when  this  ceremony  has  been 
performed,  the  spirit  of  the  particular  deity  represented  by  the 
figure  enters  the  idol.  This  sort  of  baptism  is  particularly 
expensive,  and  a  source  of  great  revenue  to  the  Brahmans.  The 
church  dues  fall  as  heavily  on  the  poor  Hindoo,  as  on  the  people 
of  England ;  nevertheless,  the  heads  of  the  Hindoo  church  do 
not  live  in  luxury  like  the  Bishops. 

The  fakir,  who  from  a  religious  motive,  however  mistaken, 
holds  up  both  arms,  until  they  become  withered  and  immov- 
able, and  who,  being,  in  consequence,  utterly  unable  to  sup- 
port himself,  relies  in  perfect  faith  on  the  support  of  the  Al- 
mighty, displays  more  religion  than  the  man,  who,  with  a  salary 
of  £8000  per  annum,  leaves  the  work  to  be  done  by  curates, 
on  a  pittance  of  £80  a  year. 

The  Gaja  Rajii  requested  me  to  teach  her  how  to  make  tea, 
she  having  been  advised  to  drink  it  for  her  health  ;  she  retired, 
changed  her  dress,  returned,  took  her  tea,  and  complained  of  its 
bitter  taste. 

"  I  am  told  you  dress  a  camel  beautifully,"  said  the  young 
Princess;  "  and  I  was  anxious  to  see  you  this  morning,  to  ask 
you  to  instruct  my  people  how  to  attire  a  sawiiri  camel." 
This  was  flattering  me  on  a  very  weak  point :  there  is  but  one 
thing  in  the  world  that  I  perfectly  understand,  and  that  is,  how 
to  dress  a  camel. 

"  I  hope  you  do  not  eat  him  when  you  have  dressed  him  !  " 
said  an  English  gentleman. 

My  relative  had  a  fine  young  camel,  and  I  was  not  happy 
until  I  had  superintended  the  making  the  attire,  in  which  he — 
the  camel,  not  the  gentleman — looked  beautiful !  The  Nawab 
Hakim  Menhdl,  having  seen  the  animal,  called,  to  request  he 
might  have  similar  trappings  for  his  own  sawarl  camel ;  and 


HOW    TO    DRESS    A    CAMEL.  37 

the  fame  thereof  having  reached  the  Mahratta  camp,  my  talents 
were  called  into  play.  I  promised  to  attend  to  the  wishes  of 
the  Gaja  Raja  ;  and,  returning  home,  summoned  twelve  mochis, 
the  saddlers  of  India,  natives  of  the  Chamar  caste,  to  perform 
the  work.  Whilst  one  of  the  men  smokes  the  narjll  (cocoa-nut 
pipe) ,  the  remainder  will  work  ;  but  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that 
each  should  have  his  turn  every  half-hour,  no  smoke, — no  work. 

Five  hundred  small  brass  bells  of  melodious  sound  ;  two 
hundred  larger  ditto,  in  harmony,  like  hounds  well  matched, 
each  under  each  ;  and  one  large  bell,  to  crown  the  whole  ;  one 
hundred  large  beads  of  imitative  turquoise ;  two  snow-white 
tails  of  the  cow  of  Thibet ;  some  thousands  of  cowries,  many 
yards  of  black  and  of  crimson  cloth,  and  a  number  of  very  long 
tassels  of  red  and  black  worsted.  The  mochis  embroidered 
the  attire  for  three  days,  and  it  was  remarkably  handsome.  The 
camel's  clothing  being  ready,  it  was  put  into  a  box,  and  the 
Gaja  Rajii  having  appointed  an  hour,  I  rode  over,  taking  it  with 
me,  at  4  a.m. 

In  the  court-yard  of  the  zenana,  I  found  the  Ba'I,  and  all 
her  ladies ;  she  asked  me  to  canter  round  the  enclosure,  the 
absurdity  of  sitting  on  one  side  a  horse  being  still  an  amusing 
novelty. 

The  Bii'I's  riding  horses  were  brought  out ;  she  was  a  great 
equestrian  in  her  youthful  days,  and,  although  she  has  now  given 
up  the  exercise,  delights  in  horses.  The  ladies  relate,  with  great 
pride,  that,  in  one  battle,  her  Highness  rode  at  the  head  of  her 
troops,  with  a  lance  in  her  hand,  and  her  infant  in  her  arms ! 

A  very  vicious,  but  large  and  handsome  camel  was  then 
brought  in  by  the  female  attendants  ;  he  knelt  down,  and  they 
began  putting  the  gay  trappings  upon  him  ;  his  nose  was  tied  to 
his  knee,  to  prevent  his  injuring  the  girls  around  him,  whom  he 
attempted  to  catch  hold  of,  showing  his  great  white  teeth ;  if 
once  the  jaw  of  a  camel  closes  upon  you,  he  will  not  relinquish 
his  hold.  You  would  have  supposed  they  were  murdering,  not 
dressing  the  animal ;  he  groaned  and  shouted  as  if  in  great  pain, 
it  was  piteous  to  hear  the  beast ;  and  laughable,  when  you 
remembered  it  was  the  "  dastur;"   they  always  groan  and  moan 


38  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

when  any  load  is  placed  on  their  backs,  however  light.  When 
the  camel's  toilet  was  completed,  a  Mahratta  girl  jumped  on  his 
back,  and  made  him  go  round  the  enclosure  at  a  capital  rate ; 
the  trappings  were  admired,  and  the  bells  pronounced  very 
musical. 

They  were  eager  I  should  mount  the  camel ;  I  thought  of 
Theodore  Hook.  "The  hostess  said,  'Mr.  Hook,  will  you 
venture  upon  an  orange?'  'No,  thank  you.  Ma'am,  I'm  afraid 
I  should  tumble  off.'  "  C'est  beau  ga,  ri"  est  pas?  I  declined  the 
elevated  position  offered  me,  for  the  same  reason. 

The  finest  young  sawarl  camels,  that  have  never  been  debased 
by  carrying  any  burthen  greater  than  two  or  three  Persian 
cats,  are  brought  down  in  droves  by  the  Arabs  from  Cabul ; 
one  man  has  usually  charge  of  three  camels  ;  they  travel  in 
single  file,  the  nose  of  one  being  attached  to  the  crupper  of 
another  by  a  string  passed  through  the  cartilage.  They  browse 
on  leaves  in  preference  to  grazing.  It  was  a  picturesque  scene, 
that  toilet  of  the  camel,  performed  by  the  Mahratta  girls,  and 
they  enjoyed  the  tamasha. 

I  mentioned  my  departure  was  near  at  hand ;  the  Ba'I  spoke 
of  her  beloved  Gwalior,  and  did  me  the  honour  to  invite  me  to 
pay  my  respects  there,  should  she  ever  be  replaced  on  the  gaddi. 
She  desired  I  would  pay  a  farewell  visit  to  the  camp  three  days 
afterwards.  After  the  distribution,  as  usual,  of  betel  leaves, 
spices,  atr  of  roses,  and  the  sprinkling  with  rose-water,  I  made 
my  salam.     Were  I  an  Asiatic,  I  would  be  a  Mahratta. 

The  Mahrattas  never  transact  business  on  an  unlucky  day ; 
Tuesday  is  an  unfortunate  day,  and  the  Ba'I,  who  was  to  have 
held  a  durbar,  put  it  oflf  in  consequence.  She  sent  for  me,  it 
being  the  day  I  was  to  take  leave  of  her ;  I  found  her  looking 
grave  and  thoughtful,  and  her  sweet  smile  was  very  sad.  She 
told  me  the  Court  of  Directors  had  sent  orders  that  she  was  to 
go  and  live  at  Benares,  or  in  the  Deccan  ;  that  she  was  to  quit 
Fathighar  in  one  month's  time,  and  should  she  refuse  to  do  so, 
the  Governor-General's  agent  was  to  take  her  to  Benares  by 
force,  under  escort  of  troops  that  had  been  sent  to  Fathighar  for 
that  purpose.    The  Bii'i  was  greatly  distressed,  but  spoke  on  the 


HER    HIGHNESS    ORDERED    TO    BENARES.  39 

subject  with  a  command  of  temper,  and  a  dignity  that  I  greatly- 
admired.  "  What  must  the  Maharaj  do  ?  Cannot  this  evil  fate  be 
averted  ?  Must  she  go  to  Benares  ?  Tell  us,  Mem  sahiba,  what 
must  we  do?"  said  one  of  the  ladies  in  attendance.  Thus 
called  upon,  I  was  obliged  to  give  my  opinion ;  it  was  an  awkward 
thing  to  tell  an  exiled  Queen  she  must  submit, — "The  cudgel 
of  the  powerful  must  be  obeyed'."  I  hesitated;  the  Ba'i 
looked  at  me  for  an  answer.  Dropping  the  eyes  of  perplexity 
on  the  folded  hands  of  despondency,  I  replied  to  the  Brija,  who 
had  asked  the  question,  "  Jiska  lathi  ooska  bhains," — i.e.  "He 
who  has  the  stick,  his  is  the  buffalo  M  "  The  effect  was  electric. 
The  Baiza  Ba'i  and  the  Gaja  Raja  laughed,  and  I  believe  the 
odd  and  absurd  application  of  the  proverb  half  reconciled  the 
Maharaj  to  her  fate. 

I  remained  with  her  Highness  some  time,  talking  over  the 
severity  of  the  orders  of  Government,  and  took  leave  of  her  with 
great  sorrow ;  the  time  I  had  before  spent  in  the  camp  had  been 
days  of  amusement  and  gaiety ;  the  last  day,  the  unlucky 
Tuesday,  was  indeed  ill-starred,  and  full  of  misery  to  the  unfor- 
tunate and  amiable  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior. 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  111.  '  Ibid.  No.  112. 


CHAPTER  XLII. 


THE  MAHRATTAS  AT  ALLAHAB4D. 

Zenana  of  the  Nawab  of  Farrukhabad — The  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi — Hidden 
Treasures — The  Jak — Dak  to  Cawnpore — The  Nawab  of  Banda — Returned 
home  in  the  Seagull — Mr.  Blunt,  the  Lieutenant-Governor,  quitted  the  Station 
— Arrival  of  Mr.  Ross — The  Baiza  Ba'I  sent  to  Allahabad — Arrival  of  her 
Highness — Parties  in  the  Mahratta  Camp — Opium-Eating — Marriage  Cere- 
monies of  the  Hindoos — Procession  in  Parda — The  Bride — Red  Gold — The 
Ex-Queen's  Tents  at  the  Tribeni — The  Bathing — Presents  to  the  Brahmans 
— Arrival  of  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe — Sohobut  Mela — Illness  of  the  Gaja  Raja 
Sahib — Murder  of  Mr.  Frazer — The  Baiza  Ba'I  a  State  Prisoner — The 
power  of  Magic. 

1835,  Oct. — One  day  I  called  on  the  Begam,  the  mother  of  the 
young  Nawab  of  Farrukhabad,  and  found  her  with  all  her  rela- 
tions sitting  in  the  garden  ;  they  were  plainly  dressed,  and  looked 
very  ugly.  For  a  woman  not  to  be  pretty  when  she  is  shut  up 
in  a  zenana  appears  almost  a  sin,  so  much  are  we  ruled  in  our 
ideas  by  what  we  read  in  childhood  of  the  hooris  of  the  East. 

One  morning,  the  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi  called ;  his  dress 
was  most  curious  ;  half  European,  half  Asiatic.  The  day  being 
cold,  he  wore  brown  corduroy  breeches,  with  black  leather  boots, 
and  thick  leather  gloves ;  over  this  attire  was  a  dress  of  fine 
white  flowered  Dacca  muslin ;  and  again,  over  that,  a  dress  of 
pale  pink  satin,  embroidered  in  gold  !  His  turban  was  of  gold 
and  red  Benares  tissue.  He  carried  his  sword  in  his  hand,  and  an 
attendant  followed,  bearing  his  hooqii ;  he  was  in  high  spirits, 
very  agreeable,  and  I  was  quite  sorry  when  he  rose  to  depart. 


ARCHERY HIDDEN    TREASURES.  41 

In  the  evening,  he  sent  down  a  charming  Uttle  elephant,  only 
five  years  old,  for  me  to  ride ;  which  I  amused  myself  with  doing 
in  the  beautiful  grounds  around  the  house,  sitting  on  the  back 
of  the  httle  beauty,  and  guiding  him  with  cords  passed  through 
his  ears. 

The  next  evening  the  Nawab  sent  his  largest  elephant,  on 
which  was  an  amarl, — ^that  is,  a  howdah,  with  a  canopy, — 
which,  according  to  native  fashion,  was  richly  gilt,  the  interior 
lined  with  velvet,  and  velvet  cushions ;  the  elephant  was  a  fast 
one,  his  paces  very  easy,  and  I  took  a  long  ride  in  the  surround- 
ing country. 

The  Muhammadans  have  a  fondness  for  archery,  for  which  the 
following  extract  accounts : — "  There  was  an  Arabian  bow  in 
the  hand  of  the  Prophet,  and  he  saw  a  man  with  a  Persian  one, 
and  said,  '  Throw  away  the  Persian  bow,  and  adopt  the  Arabian, 
and  appropriate  arrows  and  spears  ;  because  God  verily  will 
assist  with  them  in  religion,  and  will  make  you  conquerors  of 
cities.'  "  "  Verily,  God  brings  three  persons  into  Paradise,  on 
account  of  one  arrow  ;  the  first,  the  maker  of  it,  being  for  war  ; 
the  second,  the  shooter  of  it  in  the  road  of  God  ;  the  third,  the 
giver  of  the  arrow  into  the  hands  of  the  archer." 

"His  Highness  entered  Mecca  on  the  day  of  taking  it  with 
his  sword  ornamented  with  gold  and  silver;  and  he  had  two 
coats  of  mail  on  the  day  of  the  battle  of  Oh'ud,  and  wore  one 
over  the  other ;  the  Prophet  had  two  standards,  one  large,  the 
other  small ;  the  large  one  was  black,  and  the  small  one  white  ; 
verily,  the  Prophet  came  into  Mecca  with  a  white  ensign." 

We  were  speaking  to-day  of  the  practice  of  burying  money, 
so  much  resorted  to  by  the  natives,  when  a  gentleman  remarked, 
— "  It  is  a  curious  circumstance,  that  when  a  native  buries 
treasure,  in  order  to  secure  it,  the  only  persons  who  know  the 
secret  are  a  low,  debased  caste,  called  Chamars  ;  these  men  are 
faithful  to  their  employer  ;  they  will  bury  lakhs  of  rupees,  and 
never  betray  the  spot ;  they  dig  the  ground,  and  guard  it ;  as 
long  as  their  employer  lives  they  keep  the  secret ;  the  moment 
of  his  death,  they  dig  up,  and  are  off  with  the  money ;  they 
consider  they  have  a  right  to  it  in  that  case,  and  they  would  not 


42  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

give  it  up  to  his  son."  This  is  a  curious  fact,  and  accounts 
for  their  strict  secrecy  during  the  life  of  the  owner. 

Buried  treasures,  consisting  of  jewels,  as  well  as  the  precious 
metals,  to  the  extent  of  lakhs  and  lakhs,  are  supposed  to  exist 
in  the  East ;  the  inhabitants  in  ancient,  and  even  in  modern 
times,  being  in  the  habit  of  thus  securing  their  property  from 
plunder  in  wars  and  invasions ;  but  they  have  not  sufficient  faith 
in  their  Mother  Earth  to  leave  their  valuables  in  her  care  without 
the  aid  of  necromancy  (jadu) ;  and,  as  before  mentioned,  the 
Akbarabiidee,  or  square  gold  mohur,  as  represented  by  Fig.  7  in 
the  plate  entitled  "  Superstitions  of  the  Natives,"  is  had  recourse 
to,  and  buried  with  the  treasm*e.  Those  who  are  not  fortunate 
enough  to  possess  a  square  gold  mohur,  substitute  an  Akbar- 
iibadee  rupee.  Fig.  5  ;  or  a  square  eight  ana  piece.  Fig.  4.  It  is 
also  stated  that  an  animal,  sometimes  a  man,  is  killed,  and 
buried  with  it  as  a  guard  ;  this  animal  is  called  ^'aA:,  and  receives 
orders  to  allow  no  one  else  to  take  up  the  treasure.  It  is  not 
surprising  the  natives  should  behold  the  researches  of  EngUsh 
antiquaries  with  a  jealous  eye  ;  and  it  must  be  some  consolation 
to  them  that  they  believe  a  fatality  awaits  the  appropriation,  by 
the  discoverer,  of  a  hidden  treasure. 

\5th. — Having  despatched  the  pinnace  to  await  my  arrival  at 
Cawnpore,  I  started  dak  for  that  place,  which  I  reached  the  next 
day,  after  a  most  disagreeable  journey  ;  I  was  also  suffering  from 
illness,  but  the  care  of  my  kind  friends  soon  restored  me  to 
more  comfortable  feelings. 

22nd. — I  accompanied  them  to  dine  with  the  Nawab  Zulfecar 
Bahadur,  of  Banda.  The  Nawab  is  a  Muhammadan,  but  he  is  of 
a  Mahratta  family,  formerly  Hindoos ;  when  he  changed  his 
religion,  and  became  one  of  the  faithftil,  I  know  not.  Three  of 
his  children  came  in  to  see  the  company ;  the  two  girls  are  very 
interesting  little  creatures.  The  Nawiib  sat  at  table,  partook  of 
native  dishes,  and  drank  sherbet  when  his  guests  took  wine. 
The  next  day,  the  Nawab  dined  with  the  gentleman  at  whose 
house  I  was  staying,  and  met  a  large  party. 

24th. — I  quitted  Cawnpore  in  the  Seagull,  and  once  more 
found  myself  on  the  waters  of  the  Gunga  :  a  comet  was  plainly 


•  RETURNED    HOME    IN    THE    PINNACE.  48 

visible  through  a  glass  ;  its  hazy  aspect  rendered  it  a  malignant- 
looking  star.  The  solitude  of  my  boat  is  very  agreeable  after  so 
much  exertion. 

25th. — Anchored  off  a  ship-builder's  yard,  and  purchased 
six  great  trees  ;  sal,  shorea  robusta,  and  teak  (tectona  grandis)  ; 
what  they  may  turn  out  I  can  scarcely  tell ;  I  bought  them  by 
torch-hght,  had  them  pitched  into  the  river,  and  secured  to  the 
boats  ;  the  teak  trees  to  make  into  tables  and  chairs ;  the  sal 
for  a  therraantidote  ;  we  have  one  at  home,  but  having  seen  one 
very  superior  at  Fathlghar,  induced  me  to  have  the  iron-work 
made  at  that  place  ;  I  have  brought  it  down  upon  the  boats,  and 
have  now  purchased  the  wood  for  it,  en  route,  timber  being 
reasonable  at  Cawnpore. 

26th. — Here  are  we, — that  is,  the  dog  Nero  and  the  Mem 
sahiba, — floating  so  calmly,  and  yet  so  rapidly,  down  the  river ; 
it  is  most  agreeable  ;  the  temples  and  ghats  we  are  now  passing 
at  Dzilmhow  are  beautiful ;  how  picturesque  are  the  banks  of  an 
Indian  river !  the  flights  of  stone  steps  which  descend  into  the 
water ;  the  temples  around  them  of  such  peculiar  Hindoo  archi- 
tecture ;  the  natives,  both  men  and  women,  bathing  or  filUng 
their  jars  with  the  water  of  the  holy  Gunga  ;  the  fine  trees,  and 
the  brightness  of  the  sunshine,  add  great  beauty  to  the  scene. 
One  great  defect  is  the  colour  of  the  stream,  which,  during  the 
rains,  is  peculiarly  muddy ;  you  have  no  bright  reflections  on 
the  Ganges,  they  fall  heavy  and  indistinct. 

28th. — Lugiioed  the  pinnace  in  the  Jumna,  beneath  the  great 
peepul  in  our  garden,  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 

31s^. — Dined  with  Mr.  Blunt,  the  Lieutenant-Governor  ;  and 
the  next  day  a  lancet  was  put  into  my  arm,  to  relieve  an  intole- 
rable pain  in  my  head,  brought  on  by  exposure  to  the  sun  on  the 
river. 

Nov.  6th. — The  Lieutenant-Governor  gave  a  farewell  ball  to 
the  Station,  on  resigning  the  appointment  to  Mr.  Ross.  The 
news  arrived  that  her  Highness  the  Baiza  Bii'i,  having  been 
forced  to  quit  Fathlghar,  by  order  of  the  Government,  is  on  her 
march  down  to  Benares  ;  at  which  place  they  wish  her  to  reside. 
Una  Ba'i,  one  of  her  ladies,  having  preceded  her  to  Allahabad, 


44  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM.  * 

called  on  me,  and  begged  me  to  take  her  on  board  the  Calcutta 
steam-vessel,  an  object  of  great  surprise  to  the  natives. 

dth. — ^The  gentlemen  of  the  Civil  Service,  and  the  military  at 
the  Station,  gave  a  farewell  ball  to  the  Lieutenant-Governor  ;  I 
was  ill,  and  unable  to  attend.  Oh  !  the  pain  of  rheumatic  fever  ! 
The  new  Lieutenant-Governor  arrived  ;  he  gave  a  few  dinners, 
and  received  them  in  return  ;  after  which  Allahabad  subsided 
into  its  usual  quietude,  enlivened  now  and  then  by  a  Bachelor's 
Ball. 

1836,  Jan.  I6th. — The  Baiza  Ba'i  arrived  at  Allahabad,  and 
encamped  about  seven  miles  from  our  house,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Jumna,  beyond  the  city.  A  few  days  after,  the  Brija  Ba'i, 
one  of  her  ladies,  came  to  me,  to  say  her  Highness  wished  to 
see  me  ;  accordingly  I  went  to  her  encampment.  She  was  out 
of  spirits,  very  unhappy  and  uncomfortable,  but  expressed  much 
pleasure  at  my  arrival. 

Feb.  5th. — Her  Highness  requested  the  steam-vessel  should 
be  sent  up  the  river,  opposite  her  tents  ;  she  went  on  board,  and 
was  much  pleased,  asked  a  great  many  questions  respecting  the 
steam  and  machinery,  and  went  a  short  distance  up  the  river. 
Capt.  Ross  accompanied  her  Highness  to  Allahabad,  and  remained 
there  in  charge  of  her,  whilst  her  fate  was  being  decided  by  the 
Government. 

9th. — The  Ba'i  gave  a  dinner  party  at  her  tents  to  twenty  of 
the  civilians  and  the  military  ;  in  the  evening  there  was  a  nach, 
and  fireworks  were  displayed ;  the  ex- Queen  appeared  much 
pleased. 

There  is  a  very  extensive  enclosure  at  Allahabad,  called  Sultan 
Khusru's  garden  ;  tents  had  been  sent  there,  and  pitched  under 
some  magnificent  tamarind  trees,  where  a  large  party  were  assem- 
bled at  tiffin,  when  the  Bii'i  sent  down  a  Mahratta  dinner,  to 
add  to  the  entertainment.  In  the  evening,  her  two  rhinoceroses 
arrived ;  they  fought  one  another  rather  fiercely ;  it  was 
an  amusement  for  the  party.  Captain  Ross  having  quitted 
Allahabad,  Mr.  Scott  took  charge  of  her  Highness. 

March  \st. — The  Brija  Ba'i  called  to  request  me  to  assist 
them  in  giving  a  dinner  party  to  the  Station,  for  which  the 


THE    PARDA OPIUM-EATING.  45 

Biiiza  Bii'i  wished  to  send  out  invitations  ;  T  was  happy  to  aid  her. 
The  guests  arrived  at  about  seven  in  the  evening ;  the  gentlemen 
were  received  by  Appa  Sahib,  her  son-in-law ;  the  ladies  were 
ushered  behind  the  parda,  into  the  presence  of  her  Highness. 
I  have  never  described  the  parda  which  protects  the  Mahratta 
ladies  from  the  gaze  of  the  men  :  In  the  centre  of  a  long  room 
a  large  curtain  is  dropped,  not  unlike  the  curtain  at  a  theatre, 
the  space  behind  which  is  sacred  to  the  women  ;  and  there 
the  gaddi  of  the  Bii'I  was  placed,  close  to  the  parda ;  a  piece  of 
silver,  about  six  inches  square,  in  which  a  number  of  small  holes 
are  pierced,  is  let  into  the  parda ;  and  this  is  covered  on  the 
inside  with  white  muslin.  When  the  Ba'i  wished  to  see  the 
gentlemen,  her  guests,  she  raised  the  bit  of  white  mushn,  and 
could  then  see  every  thing  in  the  next  room  through  the  holes 
in  the  silver  plate — herself  unseen.  The  gentlemen  were  in  the 
outer  room,  the  ladies  in  the  inner.  Appa  Sahib  sat  close  to 
the  parda ;  the  Ba'i  conversed  with  him,  and,  through  him,  with 
some  of  the  gentlemen  present,  whom  she  could  see  perfectly 
well. 

Dancing  girls  sang  and  nached  before  the  gentlemen  until 
dinner  was  announced.  Many  ladies  were  behind  the  parda  with 
the  Baiza  Ba'i,  and  she  asked  me  to  interpret  for  those  who 
could  not  speak  Urdu.  I  was  suffering  from  severe  rheumatic 
pain  in  my  face  ;  her  Highness  perceiving  it,  took  from  a  small 
gold  box  a  lump  of  opium,  and  desired  me  to  eat  it,  saying,  she 
took  as  much  herself  every  day.  I  requested  a  smaller  portion  ; 
she  broke  off  about  one-third  of  the  lump,  which  I  put  into  my 
mouth,  and  as  it  dissolved  the  pain  vanished ;  I  became  very 
happy,  interpreted  for  the  ladies,  felt  no  fatigue,  and  talked 
incessantly.  Returning  home,  being  obliged  to  go  across  the 
country  for  a  mile  in  a  palanquin,  to  reach  the  carriage,  the  dust 
which  rolled  up  most  thickly  half  choked  me ;  nevertheless,  I 
felt  perfectly  happy,  nothing  could  discompose  me  ;  but  the 
next  morning  I  was  obliged  to  call  in  medical  advice,  on  account 
of  the  severe  pain  in  my  head,  from  the  effect  of  the  opium. 

The  table  for  dinner  was  laid  in  a  most  magnificent  tent,  lined 
with  crimson  cloth,  richly  embossed,  and  lighted  with  nume- 


46  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

rous  chandeliers.  The  niich  girls  danced  in  the  next  apartment, 
but  within  sight  of  the  guests  ;  her  Highness  and  her  grand- 
daughter, from  behind  the  parda,  looked  on.  About  two  hundred 
native  dishes,  in  silver  bowls,  were  handed  round  by  Brahmans  ; 
and  it  was  considered  etiquette  to  take  a  small  portion  from 
each  dish.  On  the  conclusion  of  the  repast,  the  Governor- 
General's  agent  rose,  and  drank  her  Highness's  health,  bowing 
to  the  parda  ;  and  Appa  Sahib  returned  thanks,  in  the  name  of 
the  Ba'I.  The  dinner  and  the  wines  were  excellent ;  the  latter 
admirably  cooled.  Fireworks  were  let  off,  and  a  salute  was 
fired  from  the  cannon  when  the  guests  departed.  Her  nephew 
was  there  in  his  wedding  dress — cloth  of  gold  most  elaborately 
worked.  The  Ba'I  expressed  herself  greatly  pleased  with  the 
party,  and  invited  me  to  attend  the  wedding  of  her  nephew  the 
next  day,  and  to  join  her  when  she  went  in  state  to  bathe  in 
the  Jumna.  I  was  very  glad  to  see  her  pleased,  and  in  good 
spirits. 

March  4th. — ^This  being  the  great  day  of  the  wedding,  at  the 
invitation  of  the  Bii'I  we  took  a  large  party  to  the  camp  to  see 
the  ceremonies  in  the  cool  of  the  evening.  Having  made  our 
salam  to  her  Highness,  we  proceeded  with  the  Gaja  Raja  Sahib 
to  the  tents  of  the  bride,  which  were  about  half  a  mile  from 
those  of  the  bridegroom.  The  ceremony  was  going  on  when  we 
entered.  The  bridegroom,  dressed  in  all  his  heavy  finery,  stood 
amongst  the  priests,  who  held  a  white  sheet  between  him  and 
the  bride,  who  stood  on  the  other  side,  while  they  chanted 
certain  prayers.  When  the  prayers  were  concluded,  and  a 
quantity  of  some  sort  of  small  grain  had  been  thrown  at  the 
lady,  the  priest  dropped  the  cloth,  and  the  bridegroom  beheld 
his  bride.  She  was  dressed  in  Mahratta  attire,  over  which  was 
a  dopatta  of  crimson  silk,  worked  in  gold  stars ;  this  covered 
her  forehead  and  face  entirely,  and  fell  in  folds  to  her  feet. 
Whether  the  person  beneath  this  covering  was  man,  woman,  or 
child,  it  was  impossible  to  tell :  bound  round  the  forehead,  out- 
side this  golden  veil,  was  a  sihra,  a  fillet  of  golden  tissue,  from 
which  strings  and  bands  of  gold  and  silver  fell  over  her  face. 
The  bridegroom  must  have  taken  upon  trust,  that  the  woman  he 


► 


PROCESSION    IN    PARDA.  47 

wished  to  many  was  the  one  concealed  under  these  curious 
wedding  garments.     It  was  late  at  night ;  we  all  returned  to  the 

Ba'i's  tent,  and  the  ladies  departed,  all  but  Mrs.  Colonel  W 

and  myself ;  the  Gaja  Raja  having  asked  us  to  stay  and  see  the 
finale  of  the  marriage.  The  young  Princess  retired  to  bathe, 
after  which,  having  been  attired  in  yellow  silk,  with  a  deep 
gold  border,  and  covered  with  jewels,  she  rejoined  us,  and  we 
set  out  to  walk  half  a  mile  to  the  tents  of  the  bride ;  this  being 
a  part   of  the   ceremony.      The   Gaja   Raja,    her   ladies,    and 

attendants,  Mrs.  W ,  and  myself,  walked  with  her  in  parda ; 

that  is,  the  canvas  walls  of  tents  having  been  fixed  on  long 
poles  so  as  to  form  an  oblong  inclosure,  a  great  number  of  men 
on  the  outside  took  up  the  poles  and  moved  gently  on  ;  while 
we  who  were  inside,  walked  in  procession  over  white  cloths, 
spread  all  the  way  from  the  tent  of  the  Ba'i  to  that  of  the  bride. 
It  was  past  1 0  p.m.  Fireworks  were  let  off,  and  blue  lights  thrown 
up  from  the  outside,  which  lighting  up  the  procession  of  beau- 
tifully dressed  Mahratta  ladies,  gave  a  most  picturesque  effect  to 
the  scene.  The  graceful  little  Gaja  Raja,  with  her  slight  form 
and  brilliant  attire,  looked  like  what  we  picture  to  ourselves  a 
fairy  was  in  the  good  old  times,  when  such  beings  visited  the 
earth.  At  the  head  of  this  procession  was  a  girl  carrying  a 
torch ;  next  to  her  a  nach  girl  danced  and  figured  about ;  then 
a  girl  in  the  dress  of  a  soldier,  who  carried  a  musket  and  played 
all  sorts  of  pranks.  Another  carried  a  pole,  on  which  were  sus- 
pended onions,  old  shoes,  and  all  sorts  of  queer  extraordinary 
things  to  make  the  people  laugh.  Arrived  at  the  end  of  our 
march,  the  Gaja  Raja  seated  herself,  and  water  was  poured  over 
her  beautiful  little  feet.  We  then  entered  the  tent  of  the  bride, 
where  many  more    ceremonies  were  performed.      During   the 

walk  in  parda,  I  looked  at  Mrs.  W ,  who  had  accompanied 

me,  and  could  not  help  saying,  "  We  flatter  ourselves  we  are 
well  dressed,  but  in  our  hideous  European  ungraceful  attire  we 
are  a  blot  in  the  procession.  I  feel  ashamed  when  the  blue 
lights  bring  me  out  of  the  shade  ;  we  destroy  the  beauty  of  the 
scene." 

I  requested  permission  to  raise  the  veil  and  view  the  coun- 


48  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

tenance  of  the  bride.  She  is  young,  and,  for  a  Mahratta, 
handsome.  The  Ba'I  presented  her  with  a  necklace  of  pure 
heavy  red  gold ;  and  told  me  she  was  now  so  poor  she  was 
unable  to  give  her  pearls  and  diamonds.  New  dresses  were 
then  presented  to  all  her  ladies.  We  witnessed  so  many  forms 
and  ceremonies,  I  cannot  describe  one-fourth  of  them.  That  night 
the  bridegroom  took  his  bride  to  his  own  tents,  but  the  cere- 
monies of  the  wedding  continued  for  many  days  afterwards.  I 
returned  home  very  much  pleased  at  having  witnessed  a  shadi 
among  the  Hindoos,  having  before  seen  the  same  ceremony 
among  the  Muhammadans. 

The  ex -Queen  had  some  tents  pitched  at  that  most  sacred 
spot,  the  Treveni,  the  junction  of  the  three  rivers  ;  and  to  these 
tents  she  came  down  continually  to  bathe ;  her  ladies  and  a 
large  concourse  of  people  were  in  attendance  upon  her,  and 
there  they  performed  the  rites  and  ceremonies.  The  super- 
stitions and  the  religion  of  the  Hindoos  were  to  me  most  in- 
teresting subjects,  and  had  been  so  ever  since  my  arrival  in  the 
country.  Her  Highness  weis  acquainted  with  this,  and  kindly 
asked  me  to  visit  her  in  the  tents  at  the  junction  whenever  any 
remarkable  ceremony  was  to  be  performed.  This  delighted  me, 
as  it  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  worship,  and  con- 
versing on  religious  subjects  with  the  ladies,  as  well  as  with  the 
Brahmans.  The  favourite  attendant,  the  Brija  Ba'i  never  failed 
to  call,  and  invite  me  to  join  their  party  at  the  time  of  the  cele- 
bration of  any  particular  rite.  At  one  of  the  festivals  her 
Highness  invited  me  to  visit  her  tents  at  the  Treveni.  I  found 
the  Mahratta  ladies  assembled  there :  the  tents  were  pitched  close 
to  the  margin  of  the  Ganges,  and  the  canvas  walls  were  run  out 
to  a  considerable  distance  into  the  river.  Her  Highness,  in  her 
usual  attire,  waded  into  the  stream,  and  shaded  by  the  kanats 
from  the  gaze  of  men,  reached  the  sacred  junction,  where  she 
performed  her  devotions,  the  water  reaching  to  her  waist. 
After  which  she  waded  back  again  to  the  tents,  changed  her 
attire,  performed  pooja;  and  gave  magnificent  presents  to  the 
attendant  Brahmans.  The  Gaja  Raja  and  all  the  Mahratta 
ladies  accompanied  the  ex-Queen  to  the  sacred  junction,  as  they 


FLYING    KITES — ALOPEE    BAGH.  49 

returned  dripping  from  the  river,  their  draperies  of  silk  and 
gold  clung  to  their  figures ;  and  very  beautiful  was  the  statue- 
like effect,  as  the  attire  half  revealed  and  half  concealed  the 
contour  of  the  figure. 

1 5th. — The  hot  winds  have  set  in  very  powerfully  ;  to-day  I 
was  sent  for  by  the  Baiza  Ba'i,  who  is  in  tents  ;  great  sickness 
is  prevalent  in  the  camp,  and  many  are  ill  of  cholera. 

22nd. — Sir  Charles  Metcalfe  arrived  to  reside  at  Allahabad, 
on  his  appointment  to  be  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Agra.  The 
hot  winds  are  blowing  very  strongly ;  therefore,  with  tattis,  the 
house  is  cool  and  pleasant ;  while,  out  of  doors,  the  heat  is 
excessive.  Her  Highness,  having  been  unable  to  procure  a 
house,  still  remains  encamped ;  the  heat  under  canvas  must  be 
dreadful. 

May  1st. — She  sent  for  me,  and  I  found  the  Gaja  Raja  ill  of 
fever,  and  suffering  greatly  from  the  intense  heat. 

May  9th — ^Was  the  Sohobut  Mela,  or  Fair  of  Kites,  in 
Alopee  Bagh ;  I  went  to  see  it ;  hundreds  of  people,  in  their 
gayest  dresses,  were  flying  kites  in  all  directions,  so  happily  and 
eagerly ;  and  under  the  fine  trees  in  the  mango  tope,  sweetmeats, 
toys,  and  children's  ornaments,  were  displayed  in  booths  erected 
for  the  purpose.     It  was  a  pretty  sight,  that  Alopee  ke  Mela. 

The  kites  are  of  different  shapes,  principally  square,  and 
have  no  tails ;  the  strings  are  covered  with  manjhii,  a  paste 
mixed  with  pounded  glass,  and  applied  to  the  string,  to  enable 
it  to  cut  that  of  another  by  friction.  One  man  flies  his  kite 
against  another,  and  he  is  the  loser  whose  string  it  cut.  The 
boys,  and  the  men  also,  race  after  the  defeated  kite,  which 
becomes  the  prize  of  the  person  who  first  seizes  it.  It  requires 
some  skill  to  gain  the  victory ;  the  men  are  as  fond  of  the  sport 
as  the  boys. 

The  string  of  a  kite  caught  tightly  round  the  tail  of  my  horse 
Trelawny,  and  threatened  to  carry  away  horse  and  rider  tail 
foremost  into  mid-air !  The  more  the  kite  pulled  and  danced 
about,  the  more  danced  Trelawny,  the  more  frightened  he 
became,  and  the  tighter  he  tucked  in  his  tail ;  the  gentleman 
who  was  on  the  horse  caught  the  string,  and  bit  it  in  two,  and 

VOL.  II.  E 


50  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

a  native  disengaged  it  from  the  tail  of  the  animal.  A  pleasant 
bite  it  must  have  been,  that  string  covered  with  pounded  glass  ! 
Yah  !  yah  !  how  very  absurd !  I  wish  you  had  seen  the  tamashii. 
In  the  evening  we  dined  with  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe;  he  was 
residing  at  Papamhow.  He  told  me  he  was  thinking  of  cutting 
down  the  avenue  of  nim  trees  (melia  azadirachta) ,  that  led 
from  the  house  to  the  river ;  I  begged  hard  that  it  might  be 
spared,  assuring  him  that  the  air  around  nim  trees  was  reckoned 
wholesome  by  the  natives,  while  that  around  the  tamarind  was 
considered  very  much  the  contrary.  In  front  of  my  rooms,  in 
former  days,  at  Papamhow,  was  a  garden,  full  of  choice  plants, 
and  a  very  fine  young  India-rubber  tree  ;  it  was  pleasant  to  see  the 
bright  green  of  the  large  glossy  leaves  of  the  caoutchouc  tree,  which 
flourished  so  luxuriantly.  In  those  days,  many  flowering  trees 
adorned  the  spot ;  among  which  the  katchnar  (bauhinia) ,  both  white 
and  rose-coloured  and  variegated,  was  remarkable  for  its  beauty. 
Sir  Charles  had  destroyed  my  garden,  without  looking  to  see 
what  trees  he  was  cutting  down;  he  had  given  the  ruthless 
order.  I  spoke  of  and  lamented  the  havoc  he  had  occasioned ; 
to  recompense  me,  he  promised  to  spare  the  avenue ;  which,  when 
I  revisited  it  years  afterwards,  was  in  excellent  preservation. 

\4th. — The  Baiza  Ba'I  sent  for  me  in  great  haste  ;  she  was  in 
alarm  respecting  the  Gaja  Raja,  who  was  ill  of  epidemic 
fever.  Having  lost  her  daughter,  the  Chimna  Ba'i,  of  fever, 
when  she  was  driven  out  of  Gwalior  by  her  rebellious  subjects, 
she  was  in  the  utmost  distress,  lest  her  only  remaining  hope  and 
comfort,  her  young  grand-daughter,  should  be  taken  from  her. 
I  urged  them  to  call  in  European  medical  advice ;  they  hesitated 
to  do  so,  as  a  medical  man  might  neither  see  the  young  Princess, 
nor  feel  her  pulse.  I  drove  off",  and  soon  returned  with  the  best 
native  doctress  to  be  procured ;  but,  from  what  I  heard  at  the 
consultation,  it  may  be  presumed  her  skill  is  not  very  great. 

The  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi  is  very  ill ;  I  fear  his  days  are 
numbered. 

The  murder  of  Mr.  Frazer,  by  the  Nawab  Sumshoodeen,  at 
Delhi,  who  bribed  a  man  called  Kureem  Khan  to  shoot  him,  took 
place  when  I  was  at  Colonel  Gardner's  ;  no  one  could  believe  it 


MURDER   OF    MR.  FRAZER.  51 

when  suspicion  first  fell  upon  the  Nawab ;  he  had  lived  on  such 
intimate  terms  with  Mr.  Frazer,  who  always  treated  him  like  a 
brother.  The  Nawab  was  tried  by  Mr.  Colvin,  the  judge,  con- 
demned and  executed.  The  natives  at  Allahabad  told  me  they 
thought  it  a  very  unjust  act  of  our  Government,  the  hanging 
the  Nawab  merely  for  bribing  a  man  to  murder  another,  and 
said,  the  man  who  fired  the  shot  ought  to  have  been  the 
only  person  executed.  On  Sunday,  the  13th  March,  1835, 
Kureem  Khan  was  foiled  in  his  attempt  on  Mr.  Frazer's  life,  as 
the  latter  was  returning  from  a  nach,  given  by  Hindoo  Rao,  the 
brother  of  the  Biiiza  Ba'i.  He  accomplished  his  purpose  eight 
days  afterwards,  on  the  22nd  of  the  same  month.  In  the  Hon. 
Miss  Eden's  beautiful  work,  "  The  Princes  and  People  of  India," 
there  is  a  sketch  of  Hindoo  Rao  on  horseback  ;  his  being  the 
brother  of  the  Baiza  Ba'i  is  perhaps  his  most  distinguishing 
mark  ;  I  have  understood,  however,  he  by  no  means  equals  the 
ex-Queen  of  Gwalior  in  talent. 

June  7th. — Sir  Charles  Metcalfe  gave  a  ball  to  the  station :  in 
spite  of  all  the  thermantidotes  and  the  tattls  it  was  insufferably 
hot ;  but  it  is  remarkable,  that  balls  are  always  given  and  better 
attended  during  the  intense  heat  of  the  hot  winds,  than  at  any 
other  time. 

9th. — The  Balza  Ba'i  sent  word  she  wished  to  see  me  ere  her 
departure,  as  it  was  her  intention  to  quit  Allahabad  and  proceed 
to  the  west :  a  violent  rheumatic  headache  prevented  my  being 
able  to  attend.  The  next  morning  she  encamped  at  Padshah 
Biigh,  beyond  Allahabad,  on  the  Cawnpore  road,  where  I  saw 
her  the  next  evening  in  a  small  round  tent,  entirely  formed  of 
tattls.  The  day  after  she  quitted  the  ground  and  went  one 
march  on  the  Cawnpore  road,  when  the  Kotwal  of  the  city  was 
sent  out  by  the  magistrate  to  bring  her  back  to  Allahabad,  and 
she  was  forced  to  return.  Her  grand-daughter  is  very  ill,  ex- 
posed to  the  heat  and  rains  in  tents.  I  fear  the  poor  girl's  life 
will  be  sacrificed.  Surely  she  is  treated  cruelly  and  unjustly. 
She  who  once  reigned  in  Gwalior  has  now  no  roof  to  shelter 
her :  the  rains  have  set  in ;  she  is  forced  to  live  in  tents,  and 
is  kept  here  against  her  will, — a  state  prisoner,  in  fact. 

E  2 


52  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Tlie  sickness  in  our  farm-yard  is  great :  forty-seven  gram- 
fed  sheep  and  lambs  have  died  of  small-pox  ;  much  sickness  is 
in  the  stable,  but  no  horse  has  been  lost  in  consequence. 

25th. — Remarkably  fine  grapes  are  selling  at  one  rupee  the 
ser;  i.  e.,  one  shilling  per  pound.  The  heat  is  intolerable  ;  and 
the  rains  do  not  fall  heavily,  as  they  ought  to  do  at  this  season. 
The  people  in  the  city  say  the  drought  is  so  unaccountable,  so 
great,  that  some  rich  merchant,  having  large  stores  of  grain  of 
which  to  dispose,  must  have  used  magic  to  keep  off  the  rains, 
that  a  famine  may  ensue,  and  make  his  fortune  ! 


CHAPTER  XLIII. 


TUFANS  IN  THE  EAST. 

A  Storm  on  the  Jumna — An  Amazonian  Mahratta  Lady — PutlT  Coins — The 
Mint  at  Gwalior — East  India  Company's  Rupees — Departure  of  Sir  Charles 
Metcalfe — Murder  of  two  Ladies  in  a  Zenana — The  Steamer  and  Tug— 
Rajmahal  Tiger — Cotton  Seed — Nagapanchmee  —  Wreck  of  the  Seagull — A 
fierce  Tufan — Arrival  of  Sir  Henry  Fane — Visit  to  the  Baiza  Ba'I — River 
Voyage  to  Calcutta — Chunar — The  God  Burtreenath — Ghat  of  Appa  Sahib 
— Ghat  of  the  Baiza  Ba'I — Her  Treasury  seized  by  the  Government — The 
ChiraghdanTs— The  Minarets — Native  Merchants — Kimkhwab  Manufactory 
— The  Juneoo — House  of  the  Baiza  Ba'I — The  Iron  Chests  of  Gold  Mohurs 
— Rooms  full  of  Rupees,  of  Copper  Coins,  and  of  Cowries — Vishwii-Kiirraa, 
the  Architect  of  the  Gods. 

1836,  June  28th. — A  hurricane  has  blown  ever  since  gun-fire  ; 
clouds  of  dust  are  borne  along  upon  the  rushing  wind ;  not  a 
drop  of  rain  ;  nothing  is  to  be  seen  but  the  whirling  clouds  of 
the  tufan.  The  old  peepul-tree  moans,  and  the  wind  roars  in  it 
as  if  the  storm  would  tear  it  up  by  the  roots.  The  pinnace 
at  anchor  on  the  Jumna  below  the  bank  rolls  and  rocks ;  the 
river  rises  in  waves,  Uke  a  little  sea.  Some  of  her  iron  bolts  have 
been  forced  out  by  the  pressure  of  the  cables,  and  the  sarang 
says,  she  can  scarcely  hold  to  her  moorings.  I  am  watching  her 
unsteady  masts,  expecting  the  next  gust  will  tear  her  from  the 
bank,  and  send  her  off  into  the  rushing  and  impetuous  current. 
It  is  well  it  is  not  night,  or  she  would  be  wrecked  to  a  certainty. 
I  have  not  much  faith  in  her  weathering  such  a  tufan  at  all, 
exposed  as  she  is  to  the  power  of  the  stream  and  the  force  of  the 
tempest.  High  and  deep  clouds  of  dust  come  rushing  along 
the  ground,  which,  soaring  into   the   highest   heaven,  spread 


51  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM. 

darkness  with  a  dull  sulphureous  tinge,  as  the  red  brown  clouds  of 
the  tufan  whirl  swiftly  on.  It  would  almost  be  an  inducement 
to  go  to  India,  were  it  only  to  see  a  hurricane  in  all  its  glorjf : 
the  might  and  majesty  of  wind  and  dust :  just  now  the  fine 
sand  from  the  banks  of  the  river  is  passing  in  such  volumes  on 
the  air,  that  the  whole  landscape  has  a  white  hue,  and  objects 
are  indistinct ;  it  drives  through  every  crevice,  and,  although 
the  windows  are  all  shut,  fills  my  eyes  and  covers  the  paper. 
It  is  a  fearful  gale.  I  have  been  out  to  see  if  the  pinnace  is 
likely  to  be  driven  from  her  moorings.  The  waves  in  the  river 
are  roUing  high  with  crests  of  foam;  a  miniature  sea.  So 
powerful  were  the  gusts,  with  difficulty  I  was  able  to  stand 
against  them.  Like  an  Irish  hurricane  it  blew  up  and  down. 
At  last  the  falling  of  heavy  rain  caused  the  abatement  of  the  wind. 
The  extreme  heat  passed  away,  the  trees,  the  earth,  all  nature, 
animate  and  inanimate,  exulted  in  the  refreshing  rain.  Only 
those  who  have  panted  and  longed  for  the  fall  of  rain  can  appre- 
ciate the  dehght  with  which  we  hailed  the  setting  in  of  the  rains 
after  the  tufiin. 

3rd. — ^This  morning  the  Ba'i  sent  down  two  of  her  ladies, 
one  of  whom  is  a  celebrated  equestrian,  quite  an  Amazon : 
nevertheless,  in  stature  small  and  slight,  with  a  pleasant  and 
feminine  countenance.  She  was  dressed  in  a  long  piece  of 
white  muslin,  about  eighteen  yards  in  length ;  it  was  wound 
round  the  body  and  passed  over  the  head,  covering  the  bosom 
entirely :  a  part  of  it  was  brought  up  tight  between  the  limbs,  so 
that  it  had  the  appearance  of  full  trousers  falling  to  the  heels. 
An  embroidered  red  Benares  shawl  was  bound  round  her  waist ; 
in  it  was  placed  a  sword  and  a  pistol,  and  a  massive  silver  bangle 
was  on  one  of  her  ancles.  Her  attendants  were  present  with 
two  saddle  horses,  decked  in  crimson  and  gold,  and  ornaments 
of  silver,  after  the  Mahratta  fashion.  She  mounted  a  large 
bony  grey,  astride  of  course,  and  taking  an  extremely  long 
spear  in  her  hand,  galloped  the  horse  about  in  circles,  per- 
forming the  spear  exercise  in  the  most  beautiful  and  graceful 
style  at  full  gallop  ;  her  horse  resiring  and  bounding,  and 
showing  off  the  excellence  of  her  riding.     Dropping  her  spear, 


PUTLI    COINS.  5S 

she  took  her  matchlock,  performing  a  sort  of  mimic  fight, 
turning  on  her  saddle  as  she  retreated  at  full  gallop,  and  firing 
over  her  horse's  tail.  She  rode  beautifully  and  most  gracefully. 
When  the  exhibition  was  over,  we  retired  to  my  dressing-room : 
she  told  me  she  had  just  arrived  from  Juggernath,  and  was  now 
en  route  to  Lahore  to  Runjeet  Singh.  She  was  anxious  I  should 
try  the  lance  exercise  on  her  steed,  which  I  would  have  done, 
had  I  possessed  the  four  walls  of  a  zenana,  within  which  to  have 
made  the  attempt. 

What  does  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe  intend  to  do  with  the  poor 
Ba'T?  what  will  be  her  fate?  this  wet  weather  she  must  be 
wretched  in  tents.  The  Lieutenant-Governor  leaves  Allahabad 
for  Agra,  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  two. 

In  the  evening  I  paid  my  respects  to  her  Highness.  I  hap- 
pened to  have  on  a  long  rosary  and  cross  of  black  beads  ;  she 
was  pleased  with  it,  and  asked  me  to  procure  some  new  rosaries 
for  her,  that  they  might  adorn  the  idols,  whom  they  dress  up,  like 
the  images  of  the  saints  in  France,  with  all  sorts  of  finery. 

She  showed  me  a  necklace  of  gold  coins,  which  appeared  to 
be  Venetian  :  the  gold  of  these  coins  is  reckoned  the  purest  of 
all,  and  they  sell  at  a  high  price.  The  natives  assert  they  come 
from  the  eastward,  and  declare  that  to  the  East  is  a  miraculous 
well,  into  which,  if  copper  coins  be  thrown,  they  come  out  after 
a  time  the  very  purest  of  gold.  In  the  sketch  entitled  "  Super- 
stitions of  the  Natives,"  No.  8  represents  a  coin  of  this  en- 
chanted well:  they  are  called  Putli,  and  the  following  extract 
makes  me  consider  them  Venetian  : — 

"It  was  in  the  reign  of  John  Dandolo,  1285,  that  gold 
zecchini  (sequins)  were  first  struck  in  Venice.  But  before  they 
could  be  issued,  the  Doge  had  to  obtain  the  permission  of  the 
Emperor  and  the  Pope.  These  zecchini  bore  the  name  and 
image  of  the  Doge,  at  first  seated  on  a  ducal  throne,  but  after- 
wards he  was  represented  standing ;  and,  finally,  in  the  latter 
times  of  the  Repubhc,  on  his  knees,  receiving  from  the  hands  of 
St.  Mark  the  standard  of  the  Republic." 

The  necklace,  which  was  a  wedding  present  to  the  bride,  con- 
sisted of  three  rows  of  silken  cords,  as  thickly  studded  with 


56  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

these  coins  as  it  was  possible  to  put  them  on,  the  longest  string 
reaching  to  the  knees :  it  was  very  heavy,  and  must  have  been 
valuable.  Another  Mahratta  lady  wore  a  necklace  of  the  same 
description,  but  it  consisted  of  a  single  row,  which  reached 
from  her  neck  to  her  feet :  people  less  opulent  wear  merely  one, 
two,  or  three  putlis  around  the  neck. 

An  old  Muhammadan  darzl  of  the  ShI'a  sect  asked  me  one 
morning  to  be  allowed  to  go  to  the  bazar  to  purchase  a  putll 
(a  doll)  to  bind  upon  his  forehead,  to  take  away  a  violent  pain 
in  his  head.  This  request  of  his  puzzled  me  greatly :  at  the 
time  I  was  ignorant  that  putll  was  also  the  name  of  the  charmed 
coin,  as  well  as  that  of  a  doll.  He  told  me  he  had  recovered 
from  severe  headache  before  in  consequence  of  this  application, 
and  believed  the  remedy  infalhble.  The  Ba'I  mentioned  that 
she  struck  mohurs  and  half  mohurs  at  Gwalior,  in  her  days  of 
prosperity.  I  showed  her  some  new  rupees  struck  by  the  East 
India  Company,  with  the  king's  head  upon  them,  which,  having 
examined,  she  said,  "These  rupees  are  very  paltry,  there  is  so 
little  pure  silver  in  them." 

5th. — ^The  ladies  of  th&  station  held  a  fancy  fair  at  the  theatre 
for  the  benefit  of  the  Blind  Asylum,  which  realized  one  hundred 
and  eighty  pounds. 

8th. — Sir  Charles  quitted  this  station  for  Agra,  leaving  Alla- 
habad to  return  to  its  usual  routine  of  quietness.  The  therman- 
tidotes  have  been  stopped,  rain  has  fallen  plentifully,  the  trees 
have  put  on  their  freshest  of  greens,  and  the  grass  is  springing 
up  in  every  direction.  How  agreeable,  how  pleasant  to  the  eye 
is  all  this  luxuriant  verdure ! 

The  report  in  the  bazar  is,  that  a  native  of  much  wealth  and 
consideration  went  into  his  zenana  tents,  in  which  he  found  two 
of  his  wives  and  a  man  ;  the  latter  escaped  ;  he  killed  both  the 
women.  A  zenana  is  a  delightful  place  for  private  murder,  and 
the  manner  in  which  justice  is  distributed  between  the  sexes  is 
so  impartial !  A  man  may  have  as  many  wives  as  he  pleases,  and 
mistresses  without  number  ; — it  only  adds  to  his  dignity !  If  a 
woman  take  a  lover,  she  is  murdered,  and  cast  like  a  dog  into  a 
ditch.     It  is  the  same  all  the  world  over ;  the  women,  being  the 


RAJMAHAL    TIGER.  57 

weaker,  are  the  playthings,  the  drudges,  or  the  victims  of  the  men  ; 
a  woman  is  a  slave  from  her  birth  ;  and  the  more  I  see  of  life, 
the  more  I  pity  the  condition  of  the  women.  As  for  the  manner 
in  which  the  natives  strive  to  keep  them  virtuous,  it  is  absurd ;  a 
girl  is  affianced  at  three  or  four  years  old,  married,  without 
having  seen  the  man,  at  eleven,  shut  up  and  guarded  and  sus- 
pected of  a  wish  to  intrigue,  which,  perhaps,  first  puts  it  into 
her  head ;  and  she  amuses  herself  with  outwitting  those  who 
have  no  dependence  upon  her,  although,  if  discovered,  her  death 
generally  ends  the  story. 

27th. — How  weary  and  heavy  is  life  in  India,  when  stationary ! 
Travelling  about  the  country  is  very  amusing ;  but  during  the 
heat  of  the  rains,  shut  up  in  the  house,  one's  mind  and  body 
feel  equally  enervated.  I  long  for  a  bracing  sea  breeze,  and  a 
healthy  walk  through  the  green  lanes  of  England  j  the  lovely 
wild  flowers, — their  beauty  haunts  me.  Here  we  have  no  wUd 
flowers ;  from  the  gardens  you  procure  the  most  superb  nose- 
gays ;  but  the  lovely  wild  flowers  of  the  green  lanes  are  wanting. 
Flowering  trees  are  planted  here  on  the  sides  of  the  roads,  and 
I  delight  in  bringing  home  a  bouquet. 

A  steamer  comes  up  every  month  from  Calcutta  ;  she  tows  a 
tug,  that  is,  a  large  flat  vessel,  which  carries  the  passengers. 
The  steamers  answer  well ;  but  what  ugly-looking,  mercantile 
things  they  are  ! 

I  must  give  an  extract  from  the  letter  of  a  friend,  describing 
an  adventure,  such  as  you  would  not  meet  with  in  the  green 
lanes  of  Hampshire: — "The  boat  was  getting  on  slowly,  and  I 
went  into  the  hills  at  Rajmahal,  to  get  a  deer  or  peacock  or 
jungle-fowl,  in  fact,  something  for  the  kitchen.  Some  way  in 
the  interior  I  heard  a  queer  noise,  which  one  of  my  servants 
said  was  a  deer ;  as  I  could  not  draw  the  shot  in  my  gun  (which 
is  a  single  barrel  flint)  to  substitute  a  ball,  having  only  a  make- 
shift ramrod,  I  consoled  myself  that  the  shot  was  large,  and 
pushed  on  in  the  direction  of  the  noise,  which  still  continued.  As 
I  came  on  the  upper  end  of  a  hollow  in  the  side  of  the  hill, 
filled  with  jungle  and  long  grass,  some  animal  jumped  up  at 
about  fifteen  yards  in  front ;  he  weis  evidently  large,  and  what 


58  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

the  great  composers  of  the  '  Sporting  Magazine'  term,  of 
a  fulvous  colour ;  he  was  decidedly,  in  the  opinion  of  the  beaters, 
a  very  heavy  deer,  of  three  or  four  miins.  Hark  forward  !  was 
now  the  word,  as  the  same  great  composers  would  again  say ; 
we  crossed  a  hollow  road,  entered  the  jungle  on  the  opposite 
side,  a  httle  below  the  du-ection  the  animal  had  taken, 
and  had  not  gone  fifteen  yards  when  up  rose,  without  hurry, 
a  handsome  large  tiger,  just  out  of  arm's  length,  and  a  little 
from  behind  me ;  his  gait  was  slunk  and  shuffling ;  I  saw 
at  once  that  he  was  going  from  me,  and,  owing  to  that  circum- 
stance, I  passed  in  review  his  sleeky  flank  and  black  stripes  with 
much  pleasure.  I  was  a  good  deal  excited,  it  being  my  first 
wild  beast  sight  au  naturel ;  I  almost  felt  an  incUnation  to  slap 
my  shot  at  him." 

The  sketch,  entitled  "The  Spring  Bow,"  was  taken  in  the 
Rajmahal  hills,  not  far  from  the  jungle  in  which  my  friend  saw 
the  tiger ;  the  hete  sauvage  represented  in  it  might  perhaps  have 
been  the  very  one  whose  sleeky  flank  and  black  stripes  he 
viewed  with  so  much  pleasure. 

August. — The  cows  are  now  in  the  finest  order  possible ;  they 
are  fed  on  Lucerne  grass  and  cotton  seed,  and  go  out  grazing. 
The  cotton  seed  is  considered  very  fattening  for  cattle  ;  it  is 
separated,  by  the  aid  of  a  very  simple  machine,  from  the  fine 
white  cotton  in  which  it  is  immersed  in  the  cells  of  the  capsule ; 
and  this  work  is  usually  performed  by  women.  Butter  is  made 
every  morning  and  evening  ;  and,  now  and  then,  a  cream  cheese. 
The  butter  is  very  fine,  of  a  bright  yellow  colour,  and  the  cream 
cheese  excellent.  The  extra  butter  having  been  clarified,  and 
sealed  down  in  jars,  keeps  good  for  twelve  months. 

9th. — ^Nagapanchmee :  This  day  is  sacred  to  the  demigods, 
in  the  form  of  serpents ;  the  natives  smear  the  doors  of  their 
houses  with  cow-dung  and  nim-leaves,  to  preserve  them  from 
poisonous  reptiles.  Nim-leaves  are  put  amongst  shawls  and 
clothes,  and  also  in  books,  to  defend  them  from  moths  and  insects. 

23rd. — During  the  night  it  began  to  blow  most  furiously, 
accompanied  by  heavy  rain  and  utter  darkness  ;  so  fierce  a  tufiin 
I  never  witnessed  before.     It  blew  without  cessation,  raining 


WRECK    OF    THE    SEAGULL.  59 

heavily  at  intervals  ;  and  the  trees  were  torn  up  by  their  roots. 
At  4  A.M.  the  storm  became  so  violent,  it  wrecked  twenty  large 
native  salt  boats  just  below  our  house ;  the  river  roared  and 
foamed,  rising  in  high  waves  from  the  opposition  of  the  wind 
and  stream.  Our  beautiful  pinnace  broke  from  her  moorings, 
was  carried  down  the  stream  a  short  distance,  driven  against  the 
broken  bastions  of  the  old  city  of  Prag,  which  have  fallen  into  the 
river,  and  totally  wrecked  just  off  the  Fort ;  she  went  down 
with  all  her  furniture,  china,  books,  wine,  &c.,  on  board,  and  has 
never  been  seen  or  heard  of  since  ;  scarcely  a  vestige  has  been 
discovered.  Alas !  my  beautiful  Seagull ;  she  has  folded  her 
wings  for  ever,  and  has  sunk  to  rest !  We  can  only  rejoice  no 
lives  were  lost,  and  that  we  were  not  on  board ;  the  sarang  and 
khalasTs  (sailors)  swam  for  their  hves ;  they  were  carried  some 
distance  down  the  stream,  below  the  Fort,  and  drifted  on  a 
sandbank.  The  headless  image  of  the  satl,  that  graced  the 
cabin,  had  brought  rather  too  much  wind.  When  the  sarang 
lamented  her  loss,  I  could  only  repeat,  as  on  the  day  he  carried 
off  the  lady,  "  Chori  ke  mal  na'Ich  hazm  hota," — stolen  food 
cannot  be  digested :   i.e.  ill  deeds  never  thrive. 

The  cook-boat  was  swamped.  On  the  going  down  of  the  river, 
although  she  was  in  the  mud,  with  her  back  broken,  she  was 
sold,  and  brought  the  sum  we  originally  gave  for  her  when  new ; 
— such  was  the  want  of  boats,  occasioned  by  the  numbers  that 
were  lost  in  the  storm  !  The  next  morning,  three  of  the  Vene- 
tians and  the  companion-ladder  of  the  pinnace  were  washed 
ashore  below  the  Fort,  and  brought  to  us  by  a  fisherman.  We 
were  sorry  for  the  fate  of  the  Seagull ;  she  was  a  beautifully 
built  vessel,  but  not  to  be  trusted,  the  white  ants  had  got  into 
her.  The  mischief  those  white  ants  do  is  incalculable ;  they 
pierce  the  centre  of  the  masts  and  beams,  working  on  in  the 
dark,  seldom  showing  marks  of  their  progress  outside,  unless 
during  the  rains.  Sometimes  a  mast,  to  all  appearance  sound,' 
will  snap  asunder ;  when  it  will  be  discovered  the  centre  has 
been  hollowed  by  the  white  ants,  and  the  outside  is  a  mere 
wooden  shell.  Almost  all  the  trees  in  the  garden  were  blown 
down  by  the  gale. 


60  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM. 

Sept.  6th. — I  visited  the  Mahratta  camp,  to  witness  the  cele- 
bration of  the  anniversary  of  the  birth  of  Krishnu ;  an  account 
of  the  ceremonies  and  of  the  life  of  Kaniyii-jee  shall  be  given  in 
a  separate  chapter. 

Oct.  I9th. — The  Commander-in-Chief,  Sir  Henry  Fane, 
arrived ;  his  tents  are  pitched  before  the  Fort,  on  the  side  of  the 
Jumna ;  the  elephants,  the  camels,  and  the  horses  in  attendance 
form  a  picturesque  assemblage,  much  to  my  taste. 

21s^ — The  station  gave  a  ball  to  Sir  Henry  and  his  party; 
he  is  a  magnificent-looking  man,  with  good  soldier-like  bearing, 
one  of  imposing  presence,  a  most  superb  bow,  and  graceful 
speaking.  I  admire  his  appearance,  and  think  he  must  have 
merited  his  appellation,  in  olden  times,  of  the  handsome 
aide-de-camp. 

27th. — Sir  Henry  Fane  reviewed  the  troops  of  the  station, 
and  a  ball  took  place  in  the  evening,  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Fane, 
the  brother  of  the  Commander-in-Chief.  A  few  days  afterwards, 
the  ladies  of  his  family  requested  me  to  accompany  them  to 
visit  her  Highness  the  Biiiza  Ba'i,  which  I  did  with  much 
pleasure,  and  acted  as  interpreter. 

Nov.  3rd. — ^We  dined  with  Sir  Henry  in  camp,  and  he  pro- 
mised to  show  me  tiger-shooting  in  perfection,  if  I  would  accom- 
pany his  party  to  Lucnow. 

7th. — Some  friends  anchored  under  our  garden,  on  their  way 
to  Calcutta  ;  the  sight  of  their  little  fleet  revived  all  my  roaming 
propensities,  and,  as  I  wished  to  consult  a  medical  man  at  the 
Residency,  in  whom  I  had  great  faith,  I  agreed  to  join  their 
party,  and  make  a  voyage  down  the  river.  The  Baiza  Ba'i  was 
anxious  to  see  my  friends ;  we  paid  her  a  farewell  visit ;  she 

was  charmed  with  Mr.  C ,  who  speaks  and  understands  the 

language  like  a  native,  and  delighted  with  the  children. 

I3th. — Our  little  fleet  of  six  vessels  quitted  Allahabad,  and 
three  days  afterwards  we  arrived  at  Mirzapore,  famous  for  its 
beautiful  ghats  and  carpet  manufactories. 

\7th. — Anchored  under  the  Fort  of  Chunar,  a  beautiful 
object  from  the  river ;  it  was  not  my  intention  to  have  anchored 
there,  but  the  place  looked  so  attractive,  I  could  not  pass  by 


THE    GOD    BURTREENATH.  61 

without  paying  it  a  visit.  The  goats  and  sheep,  glad  to  get  a 
run  after  their  confinement  in  the  boat,  are  enjoying  themselves 
on  the  bank  ;  and  a  boy,  with  a  basket  full  of  snakes  (cobra  di 
capello),  is  trying  to  attract  my  attention.  In  the  cool  of  the 
evening  we  went  into  the  Fort,  which  is  situated  on  the  top  of 
an  abrupt  rock,  which  rises  from  the  river.  The  view,  coming 
from  Allahabad,  is  very  striking  ;  the  ramparts  running  along  the 
top  of  the  rising  ground,  the  broad  open  river  below ;  the 
churchyard  under  the  walls,  on  the  banks  of  the  Gunga,  with 
its  pretty  tombs  of  Chunar  stone  rising  in  all  sorts  of  pointed 
forms,  gives  one  an  idea  of  quiet,  not  generally  the  feeling  that 
arises  on  the  sight  of  a  burial-place  in  India ;  the  ground  was 
open,  and  looked  cheerful  as  the  evening  sun  fell  on  the  tombs ; 
the  hiUs,  the  village,  the  trees,  all  united  in  forming  a  scene  of 
beauty.  We  entered  the  magazine,  and  visited  the  large  black 
slab  on  which  the  deity  of  the  Fort  is  said  to  be  ever  present, 
with  the  exception  of  from  daybreak  until  the  hour  of  9  a.m., 
during  which  time  he  is  at  Benares.  Tradition  asserts  that  the 
Fort  has  never  been  taken  by  the  English,  but  during  the 
absence  of  their  god  Burtreenath.  We  walked  round  the 
ramparts,  and  enjoyed  the  view.  The  church,  and  the  houses 
which  stretch  along  the  river-side  for  some  distance,  and  the 
Fort  itself,  looked  cheerful  and  healthy  ;  which  accounted  for  the 
number  of  old  pensioners  to  be  found  at  Chunar,  who  have 
their  option  as  to  their  place  of  residence. 

As  you  approach  Benares,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 
stands  the  house  of  the  Rajii  of  Benares,  a  good  portly  looking 
building.  The  appearance  of  the  Holy  City  from  the  river  is 
very  curious,  and  particularly  interesting.  The  steep  cliff  on 
which  Benares  is  built  is  covered  with  Hindoo  temples  and  ghats 
of  all  sizes  and  descriptions ;  the  first  ghat,  built  by  Appa 
Sahib,  from  Poona,  I  thought  handsome  ;  but  every  ghat  was 
eclipsed  by  the  beauty  of  the  one  which  is  now  being  built  by 
her  Highness  the  Bfiiza  Ba'i ;  the  scale  is  so  grand,  so  beautiful, 
so  light,  and  it  is  on  so  regular  a  plan,  it  dehghted  me  ;  it  is  the 
handsomest  ghnt  I  have  seen  in  India ;  unfinished  as  it  is,  it  has 
cost  her  Highness  fifteen  liikh  ;  to  finish  it  will  cost  twenty  lakh 


62  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

more  ;  should  she  die  ere  the  work  be  completed  it  will  never 
be  finished,  it  being  deemed  unlucky  to  finish  the  work  of  a 
deceased  person.  The  money,  to  the  amount  of  thirty-seven 
lakh,  which  the  Bil'I  had  stored  in  her  house  at  Benares,  to 
complete  the  ghat,  and  to  feed  the  Brahmans,  whose  allow- 
ance was  two  hundred  rupees,  i.e.  £20  a  day,  has  been  seized  by 
the  Government,  and  put  into  the  Company's  treasury,  where 
it  will  remain  until  the  point  now  in  dispute  is  settled  ;  that  is, 
whether  it  belong  to  the  Ba'i  or  to  her  adopted  son,  the  present 
Maharaj  of  Gwalior,  who  forced  her  out  of  the  kingdom. 
Several  Hindoo  temples  are  near  this  ghat;  a  cluster  of 
beauty.  Two  chiraghdanis,  which  are  lighted  up  on  festivals, 
are  curious  and  pretty  objects ;  their  efiect,  when  glittering  at 
night  with  thousands  of  little  lamps,  must  be  beautiful,  reflected 
with  the  temples,  and  crowds  of  worshippers  on  the  waters 
below ;  and  great  picturesque  beauty  is  added  to  the  scene  by 
the  grotesque  and  curious  houses  jutting  out  from  the  cliff, 
based  on  the  flights  of  stone  steps  which  form  the  ghats.  How 
I  wished  I  could  have  seen  Benares  from  the  river  during  the 
Dewall,  or  Festival  of  Lights !  At  sunset  we  went  up  the 
Minarets,  built  by  Aurunzebe  ;  they  are  considered  remarkably 
beautiful,  towering  over  the  Hindoo  temples ;  a  record  of  the 
Muhammadan  conquest. 

On  my  return  to  my  budjerow,  a  number  of  native  merchants 
were  in  waiting,  hoping  to  dispose  of  their  goods  to  the  strangers  ; 
they  had  boxes  full  of  Benares  turbans,  shawls,  gold  and  silver 
dresses,  kimkhwab,  and  cloth  of  gold.  This  place  is  famous  for 
its  embroidery  in  gold,  and  for  its  tissues  of  gold  and  silver.  I 
purchased  some  to  make  a  native  dress  for  myself,  and  also 
some  very  stiff  ribbon,  worked  in  silk  and  gold,  on  which  are 
the  names  of  all  the  Hindoo  deities ;  the  Hindoos  wear  them 
round  their  necks ;  they  are  holy,  and  called  jun^oo.  The 
English  mare  and  my  little  black  horse  met  me  here,  en  route  to 
Calcutta. 

The  Baiza  Ba'i  told  me  by  no  means  to  pass  Benares  without 
visiting  her  ghat  and  her  house ;  some  of  her  people  having 
come  down  to  the  river,  T  returned  with  them  to  see  the  house ; 


HOUSE    AND   TREASURY    OF   THE    BAIZA    Ba'i.  63 

it  is  very  curiously  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  Only 
imagine  how  narrow  the  street  is  which  leads  up  to  it ;  as  I  sat 
in  my  palanquin,  I  could  touch  both  the  sides  of  the  street  by 
stretching  my  arms  out,  which  I  did  to  assure  myself  of  its 
extreme  narrowness.  All  the  houses  in  this  street  are  five  or 
six  stories  high.  We  stopped  at  the  house  of  the  Bii'i ;  it  is  six 
stories  high,  and  was  bought  by  her  Highness  as  a  place  in  which 
to  secure  her  treasure.  It  is  difficult  to  describe  a  regular 
Hindoo  house  such  as  this ;  which  consists  of  four  walls,  within 
and  around  which  the  rooms  are  built  story  above  story ;  but 
from  the  foundation  to  the  top  of  the  house  there  is  a  square  in 
the  centre  left  open,  so  that  the  house  encloses  a  small  square 
court  open  to  the  sky  above,  around  which  the  rooms  are  built 
with  projecting  platforms,  on  which  the  women  may  sit, 
and  eat  the  air,  as  the  natives  call  it,  within  the  walls  of 
their  residence.  I  clambered  up  the  narrow  and  deep  stone 
stairs,  story  after  story,  until  I  arrived  at  the  top  of  the  house ; 
the  view  from  which  was  unique  :  several  houses  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood appeared  much  higher  than  the  one  on  which  I  was 
standing,  which  was  six  stories  high.  The  Mahratta,  who  did 
the  honours  on  the  part  of  her  Highness,  took  me  into  one  of 
the  rooms,  and  showed  me  the  two  chests  of  cast  iron,  which 
formerly  contained  about  eighteen  thousand  gold  mohurs.  The 
Government  took  that  money  from  the  Ba'I  by  force,  and  put  it 
into  their  treasury.  Her  Highness  refused  to  give  up  the  keys, 
and  also  refused  her  sanction  to  the  removal  of  the  money  from 
her  house  ;  the  locks  of  the  iron  chests  were  driven  in,  and  the 
tops  broken  open ;  the  rupees  were  in  bags  in  the  room  ;  the 
total  of  the  money  removed  amounted  to  thirty- seven  lakh. 
Another  room  was  full  of  copper  coins ;  another  of  cowries ; 
the  latter  will  become  mouldy  and  fall  into  dust  in  the  course  of 
time.  One  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  party  went  over  the  house 
with  me,  and  saw  what  I  have  described.  Atr  and  pan  were 
presented,  after  which  we  took  our  leave  and  proceeded  to  the 
market-place.  The  braziers'  shops  were  open,  but  they  refused 
to  sell  any  thing,  it  being  one  of  the  holidays  on  which  no  worker 
in  brass  is  allowed  to  sell  goods. 


64  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

The  worship  of  Vishwii-kurma,  the  son  of  Brumha,  the 
architect  of  the  gods,  was  perhaps  being  performed.  On  that 
day  blacksmiths  worship  their  hammer  and  bellows  ;  carpenters, 
the  mallet,  chisel,  hatchet,  saw,  &c. ;  washermen,  their  irons ; 
and  potters,  the  turning-wheel,  as  the  representative  of  this  god. 
The  festival  closes  with  singing  and  gaiety,  smoking  and  eating. 

I9th. — The  hour  was  too  early,  and  but  few  shops  were  open, 
which  gave  a  dull  look  to  this  generally  crowded  and  busy  city. 

The  air  is  cool  and  pleasant ;  we  float  gently  down  the  river ; 
this  quiet,  composed  sort  of  life,  with  a  new  scene  every  day,  is 
one  of  great  enjoyment. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  that,  after  a  considerable  lapse 
of  time,  the  treasure  that  was  detained  by  the  Government  on 
behalf  of  the  young  Maharaj  of  Gwalior,  was  restored  to  her 
Highness  the  Baiza  Ba'i. 


CHAPTER    XLIV. 


THE  SPRING-BOW. 

Ghazipur — Tomb  of  Lord  Comwallis — Palace  of  the  Nawab  of  Ghazipur — 
Beerpur — Satis — The  Murda  Ghat — Buxar — The  Stud — Bulliah  Mela — 
Blue  Waters  of  the  Soane — Swimming  an  Elephant — A  Day  too  late  for  the 
Fair — Hajipiir — The  Gunduc  river — Thieves — Futwa — Tarie-trees — Mon- 
ghir — The  Seeta  Khoond — Janghira — Mosque  and  Graves — Rocks  of  Kuhul- 
gaon — Desertion  of  the  Dandees — Sikrigali — An  Adventure  in  the  Hills  of 
Rajmahal — Tiger  Tracks — The  Spring-bow — By'a  Birds — The  Hill-man — 
Poisoned  Arrows — The  Thumb-ring — Bauhinia  Scandens. 

1836,  Nov.2lst. — Arrived  early  at  Ghazipur,  the  town  of  GhazI, 
also  called,  as  the  Hindus  assert,  Gadhpur,  from  Gadh,  a  Riija 
of  that  name.  We  went  on  shore  to  view  the  tomb  of  a  former 
Governor-General,  the  Marquis  Cornwallis,  who  lies  buried  here, 
aged  sixty-seven.  The  sarcophagus  is  within  a  circular  building, 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  and  surrounded  by  a  verandah  ;  it  is  of 
white  marble,  with  appropriate  figures  in  half  relief  by  Flaxman  ; 
in  front  is  a  bust  of  the  Marquis ;  the  coronet  and  cushion 
surmount  it ;  the  iron  railings  are  remarkably  handsome  and 
appropriate ;  the  whole  is  surrounded  by  a  plantation  of  fine 
young  trees,  and  kept  in  excellent  order ;  in  front  is  a  pedestal, 
intended,  I  should  imagine,  for  a  statue  of  the  Marquis.  The 
view  from  the  building  is  open  and  pretty ;  it  is  situated  in  the 
cantonment  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges.  There  are  four 
figures  in  mourning  attitudes  on  the  tomb,  in  half  relief ;  that  of 
a  Brahman  is  well  executed.  The  pakka  houses  of  the  European 
residents  at  GhazTpiir,  stretching  along  the  river's  side,  have  a 
pleasing  effect. 

VOL    II.  F 


G6  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

The  ruins  of  the  palace  of  the  Nawab  of  Ghazlpur  are 
situated  on  a  high  bank,  in  front  of  which  the  rampart,  with 
four  bastions,  faces  the  river.  The  house  is  falling  into  ruins. 
I  admired  it  very  much,  the  plan  on  which  it  is  built  is  charming ; 
what  a  luxurious  abode  during  the  hot  winds !  It  is  situated  on 
a  high  bank  overlooking  the  Gunga ;  in  the  centre  is  an  octagonal 
room ;  around  this,  four  square  rooms  alternate  with  four 
octagonal  rooms,  which  are  supported  on  light  and  handsome 
arches.  There  are  no  walls  to  the  rooms,  but  each  is  supported 
on  arches.  Around  the  centre  room  is  a  space  for  water,  and 
a  great  number  of  fountains  played  there  in  former  times. 
Between  the  arches  hung  rich  pardas  ;  how  delightfully  suited 
to  the  climate !  Imagine  the  luxury  of  sitting  in  the  centre 
room,  all  the  air  coming  in  cooled  by  the  fountains,  and  screened 
from  the  glare  by  the  rich  pardas  !  One  of  the  octagonal  rooms 
has  fallen  in  completely.  A  gentleman  of  our  party,  not  finding 
any  game  in  the  surrounding  fields,  shot  five  anwari  fish  that 
were  sporting  about  on  the  surface  of  the  river.  Rosewater 
and  cloth  was  brought  for  sale  in  abundance.  The  fields  by  the 
river-side  are  in  parts  a  perfect  Golgotha,  strewn  with  human 
skulls.     The  Company's  stud  is  here,  but  we  did  not  visit  it. 

Off  the  village  of  Beerpur  I  saw  from  ten  to  twenty  sati 
mounds,  under  some  large  trees  by  the  river-side ;  the  idea  of 
what  those  wretched  women  must  have  suflfered  made  me 
shudder. 

Off  Chounsah  I  was  most  thoroughly  disgusted ;  there  is  on 
the  bank  of  the  river  a  murda  ghat,  or  place  for  burning  the  dead 
bodies  of  the  Hindus  ;  about  twenty  charpals  (native  beds)  were 
there  cast  away  as  unclean,  the  bodies  having  been  carried  down 
upon  them.  Some  of  the  bodies  had  hardly  been  touched  by 
the  fire,  just  scorched  and  thrown  into  the  water.  The  dogs  and 
crows  were  tearing  the  flesh  from  the  skeletons,  growling  as 
they  ate,  to  deter  other  dogs  that  stood  snarling  around  from 
joining  in  the  meal.  A  gentleman  fired  at  them,  drove  off  some 
of  the  dogs,  and  killed  others  ;  you  have  no  idea  how  fierce  and 
hungry  the  wretches  were  ;  a  bullet  from  a  musket  only  scared 
them  for  a  moment,  and  then  they  returned  to  the  corpse.     I 


BUXAR.  67 

was  glad  to  get  beyond  the  murda  ghat ;  the  sight  and  smell  of 
such  horrors  made  me  ill. 

Anchored  at  Buxar,  and  visited  the  stud ;  the  only  stable  I 
went  into  was  a  most  admirable  one,  lofty,  airy,  ventilated,  clean, 
and  spacious.  It  contained  two  hundred  horses,  all  looking 
clean,  and  in  excellent  condition ;  the  horses  in  this  stable  are 
all  three  years  old,  remarkably  fine  young  animals.  You  may 
have  the  choice  of  the  stable  for  £100,  i.e.  1000  rupees ;  these 
horses  ought  to  be  good,  they  come  from  the  best  imported 
English,  Arab,  and  Persian  horses,  and  are  reared  with  great 
care.  The  animals  stand  in  a  long  line,  without  any  separation 
or  bar  between  them  in  the  stable ;  the  head  is  tied  to  the 
manger,  the  heels  at  liberty,  no  heel-ropes.  They  appear  per- 
fectly quiet,  although  they  stand  so  close  to  each  other.  About 
six  hundred  horses  are  at  Buxar,  and  more  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river ;  I  derived  much  pleasure  from  seeing  the  stud  at  this  place, 
and  regret  I  did  not  visit  that  at  Ghiizipur.  Every  day,  from 
7  to  8  A.M.,  the  whole  of  the  young  horses  are  turned  loose  into 
a  paddock,  to  run  and  gallop  about  at  pleasure ;  it  must  be  a 
pretty  sight. 

23rd. — The  mela  at  Bulliah  is  held  on  this  day,  the  last 
of  the  month  of  Kartik.  The  scene  for  five  miles  was  very 
gay  ;  a  great  Hindu  fair  and  bathing  day ;  boats  full  of  people 
going  to  the  fair,  numbers  on  the  cliff",  and  crowds  in  the  river, 
at  their  devotions, — an  animated  scene.  The  gentlemen  are 
firing  ball  at  the  great  crocodiles,  as  they  lie  basking  on  the 
sandbanks ;  they  have  killed  a  very  large  one.  When  croco- 
diles are  cut  open,  silver  and  gold  ornaments  are  sometimes 
found  in  the  interior ;  the  body  of  a  child — the  whole  body — 
was  found  in  a  crocodile,  a  short  time  ago,  at  Cawnpore. 

25th. — This  morning  our  Uttle  fleet  passed  the  Soane  river  at  its 
junction  with  the  Ganges  ;  I  went  on  decTt  to  look  at  the  kala  panl , 
the  black  water,  as  the  natives  call  it,  on  account  of  the  deep  blue 
tinge  of  the  Soane,  which  forms  a  strong  contrast  to  the  dingy 
milky  hue  of  the  stream  of  the  Gunga.  In  this  river,  agates, 
amethysts,  comehans,  &c.,  are  found.  Crossing  the  river,  which 
was  considerably  agitated  by  a  very  powerful  wind,  to  go  to  the  fair 

f2 


68  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

at  Hiijipur,  I  saw  a  man  apparently  standing  on  the  waters  in 
the  centre  of  the  river ;  it  was  blowing  a  stiff  gale ;  the  man 
stood  in  an  erect  and  easy  position.  On  coming  nearer  I  per- 
ceived he  was  standing  on  the  back  of  an  elephant ;  the  whole 
of  the  animal's  body,  with  the  exception  of  his  head,  was  under 
water ;  he  put  up  the  end  of  his  trunk  every  now  and  then,  and 
was  swimming  boldly  and  strongly  forward  directly  across  the 
enormous  river.  The  wind  blew  so  heavily,  it  was  surprising 
the  man  could  keep  his  balance ;  he  held  a  string  in  one  hand, 
the  other  contained  the  ankus,  with  which  the  mahawat  drives 
his  elephant ;  the  string  was,  perhaps,  the  reins  fastened  in  the 
animal's  ears,  with  which  they  often  guide  them. 

On  the  evening  of  the  25th  we  arrived  at  HajTpur ;  it  was 
very  provoking  to  see  all  the  tents  being  struck,  and  the  vessels 
going  down  the  stream,  as  we  were  rowing  up  it, — a  day  too 
late  for  the  fair.  Hajipur  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the 
Gunduc  with  the  Ganges  ;  the  Gunduc  is  such  a  rapid  stream, 
it  is  hardly  possible  to  stem  it,  at  least  with  a  foul  wind,  such  as 
we  had  at  the  time  of  our  arrival.  We  went  on  shore,  and 
procured  provisions ;  returning,  we  crossed  the  Gunduc  in  a 
boat  hollowed  out  of  the  stem  of  a  tree, — not  a  very  safe  sort  of 
concern,  but  very  common  on  the  Ganges. 

What  an  uncomfortable  night  I  spent !  awakened  every  half- 
hour  by  the  falling  in  of  the  sandbank  to  which  my  budgerow 
was  moored  ;  I  feared  my  cook  boat  would  have  been  swamped. 
In  the  middle  of  the  night  a  great  cry  was  raised  of  "  Chor, 
Chor !"  and  a  number  of  people  rushed  down  to  seize  a  thief, 
who  was  floating  down  the  rapid  Gunduc,  with  a  ghara  (an 
earthen  pot)  over  his  head ;  a  trick  common  to  thieves,  that  they 
may  pass  unperceived.  I  got  up,  hearing  the  noise,  and  looked 
out  of  the  cabin  window ;  seeing  a  man  in  the  water  close  under 
the  window,  and  imagining  him  to  be  one  of  the  sailors,  I  said, 
"  What  is  all  this  noise  about?"  The  thief,  for  it  was  he,  finding 
he  was  not  concealed  by  the  shadow  of  the  vessel,  swam  off ;  and, 
although  a  boat  pursued  him,  he  escaped  by  either  crossing  the 
Ganges  or  floating  down  it.  These  thieves  are  most  wonderfully 
skilful,  and  infest  the  great  fairs  of  India ;  my  servants  say  he 


MONGHIR.  69 

had  a  large  box  with  him  in  the  water,  and  floated  down  upon 
it ;  it  was  stolen  from  the  tent  of  a  rich  native. 

Off  the  village  of  Futwa  I  purchased  a  quantity  of  Patna 
tablecloths,  napkins,  and  cloth ;  the  manufactory  is  at  this  place ; 
and  the  people  bring  their  goods  off  to  the  passing  vessels. 

The  whole  way  from  Allahabad  to  Patna  the  fan  palm 
trees  (borassus  flabelliformis)  are  extremely  scarce  ;  immediately 
below  Patna  the  river's  bank  is  covered  with  them.  The  natives 
call  them  tar  or  tarie  trees  ;  the  juice  is  used  as  leaven  for  bread, 
also  as  urruk.  A  single  leaf  is  sufficient  to  form  the  large  hand 
pankhas  used  by  the  bearers,  and  paper  is  also  manufactured 
from  the  tarie  tree.  They  add  greatly  to  the  picturesque  and 
Eastern  beauty  of  the  scene. 

29th. — Arrived  at  Monghir :  the  place  looks  very  well  from 
the  river  with  its  old  Fort.  On  anchoring  we  were  assailed  by 
a  number  of  people,  all  anxious  to  sell  their  goods, — chairs, 
work-tables,  boxes,  straw  bonnets  and  hats,  birds  in  cages,  forks, 
knives,  guns,  pistols,  baskets,  kettles ;  and  to  the  noise  of  such 
a  collection  of  people,  all  howling  and  shouting,  was  added  the 
whining  of  a  host  of  beggars. 

We  went  on  shore,  and  walked  through  the  bazar,  buying  a 
number  of  queer  things.  After  tiffin  we  proceeded  in  palkees  to 
the  Seeta  Khoond,  about  five  miles  from  Monghir,  the  road  very 
good,  date  and  palm  trees  in  abundance ;  and  the  country  around 
Seetii's  Well  makes  one  imagine  that  one  is  approaching  the 
sea-shore ;  there  is  a  remarkably  volcanic  appearance  in  the 
rocks.  The  Seeta  Khoond  is  a  brilliantly  clear  spring  of  boiling 
hot  water,  which  bubbles  and  boils  up  most  beautifully,  and  is 
enclosed  in  a  large  space,  with  steps  descending  to  the  water. 
I  never  saw  so  beautiful  a  spring,  or  such  living  water  !  There  are 
four  springs  close  to  it,  but  they  are  all  of  cold  water,  and  have 
none  of  the  clearness  or  beauty  of  Seeta's  Well.  The  water  is 
contained  in  an  enclosure  of  stone,  in  which  it  rises  up  sparkling 
and  bubbling  from  its  rocky  bed.  The  steps  on  which  you  stand 
are  very  hot,  and  a  hot  steam  rises  from  the  surface ;  the  water 
is  so  clear  you  can  see  the  points  at  which  it  springs  up  from  its 
bed  of  rock.     The  stream  from  the  Seeta  Khoond  is  constantly 


70  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

flowing  into  the  jheel  below  in  a  little  rivulet,  that  gradually 
widens,  and  in  which  the  presence  of  the  hot  water  is  perceptible 
in  a  cold  morning  for  about  one  hundred  yards  from  the 
spring. 

Several  years  ago,  an  artilleiyman  attempted  for  a  wager  to 
swim  across  the  basin,  and  although  he  succeeded  in  getting 
over,  it  was  necessary  to  convey  him  to  an  hospital,  where  he 
died  within  a  few  hours  from  the  effect  of  the  hot  water ;  not 
having  tested  it  by  a  thermometer,  I  cannot  tell  the  precise 
heat.  The  Brahmans  say,  so  holy  is  the  well,  by  the  power  of 
the  goddess  Seeta,  that,  although  boiling,  it  performs  the  miracle 
of  keeping  rice  and  eggs  thrown  into  it  in  an  uncooked  state. 
I  saw  a  great  quantity  of  rice  which  remained  unswollen  in  the 
water;  not  being  a  pious  Hindu,  I  conclude  the  water  to  be 
below  the  boiling  point. 

A  pretty  Hindu  temple  has  been  erected  close  to  the  spring, 
dedicated  to  Seeta,  in  which  are  four  idols  ;  one  of  the  god 
Ram,  his  beloved  Seeta,  his  brother  Lutchman,  and  their  cham- 
pion the  monkey  god  Hoonuman ;  in  the  verandah  is  also  a 
statue  of  Hoonuman.  I  put  the  points  of  my  fingers  into  the 
water,  but  the  heat  was  too  near  the  scalding  point  to  allow  of 
my  putting  in  my  hand  ;  the  view  from  the  spring  is  remarkably 
beautiful ;  in  front  is  a  jheel,  a  large  space  of  shallow  water, 
bounded  by  the  Kurrukpur  mountains  at  various  distances ; 
these  mountains  are  rather  rocks  than  mountains,  and  the  stones 
took  all  sorts  of  grotesque  forms  as  the  sun  declined  behind 
them.  On  the  right  and  left  of  the  spring  were  rocks,  which 
appeared  to  have  been  thrown  up  by  an  earthquake.  The  jheel 
looking  like  a  place  in  which  snipe  and  wild  ducks  would  be 
plentiful,  one  of  the  party  took  his  gun  and  shot  over  it,  but 
had  no  sport ;  the  morning  is  the  time  for  finding  birds  there. 
I  walked  half-way  down  the  jheel :  looking  back  towards  the 
Khoond,  the  white  temples  at  the  spring,  with  the  dark  green 
i,nango  tope  behind,  and  the  wild-looking,  rocky  scenery  on  either 
side,  had  a  pleasing  effect.  The  palkee-bearers  told  me,  in  the 
centre  of  the  opposite  mountains,  the  Kurrukpur,  about  six 
miles  from  the  Seetii    Khoond,   there   is   a   hot   spring,    called 


JANGHIRA.  71 

Ileegee  Khoond,  which,  from  being  in  the  jungles,  is  little  known  ; 
that  every  third  year  a  fair  is  held  there,  when  people  assemble 
to  bathe  and  do  pooja.  My  friends  filled  many  bottles  at  the 
spring ;  it  is  necessary  to  bring  corks,  as  they  are  not  procurable 
at  Monghir.  The  water  is  so  pure,  it  keeps  like  the  Bristol 
water  on  a  long  voyage ;  people  returning  to  England  make  a 
point  of  stopping  here  on  that  account. 

30th. — We  anchored  at  the  Fakir's  rock  at  Janghlra.  The 
abode  of  the  Fakir  is  on  a  high  bold  rock,  rising  abruptly  in  the 
midst  of  the  stream,  completely  isolated ;  the  temple  is  placed 
on  the  very  summit ;  there  are  four  small  temples  also  a  little 
below  ;  some  large  trees  spring  from  the  crevices  of  the  rock  : 
the  whole  reflected  in  the  Ganges,  with  the  village  of  Janghlra 
beyond,  and  the  mountains  of  Karrak  in  the  distance,  form  a 
good  subject  for  the  pencil.  On  the  outside,  carved  on  the  solid 
rock,  are  a  great  number  of  Hindoo  images  ;  amongst  them, 
one  of  Narasingh  is  very  conspicuous,  tearing  open  the  bowels  of 
the  king  who  disbelieved  the  omnipresence  of  the  Deity.  We 
passed  over  in  a  little  boat  to  see  this  temple  ;  the  fakirs  showed 
it  with  great  good  will,  and  gained  a  small  reward.  There  is  a 
remarkably  fine  tree,  the  plumeria  alba,  springing  from  the  side 
of  the  rock,  the  goolachin  or  junglee  champa,  as  the  natives  call 
it.  On  our  return  to  the  main  land,  we  climbed  a  cluster  of 
rocks,  just  opposite  Janghira ;  on  the  summit  of  these  rocks, 
which  are  well  wooded,  stand  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  mosque ;  no 
one  inhabits  the  place  ;  the  view  from  the  platform  is  remarkably 
good.  The  graves  of  the  Kiizi  Biskermee's  family  are  there ; 
the  Kiizi  formerly  lived  there,  but  I  could  not  gain  much  infor- 
mation from  our  guide  on  the  subject.  The  little  burial-ground, 
with  its  eleven  graves,  looked  so  quiet,  and  afar  from  the  turmoil 
of  the  world,  I  took  a  fancy  to  the  spot.  There  must,  or  there 
ought  to  be,  some  little  history  attached  to  this  picturesque 
mosque  and  its  ruined  graves ;  it  stands  on  a  high  rock,  well 
wooded,  rising  abruptly  from  the  Ganges. 

Dec.  \st. — We  quitted  the  Janghira  rocks  ere  daybreak,  with 
a  fair  wind,  and  floated  down  the  stream  most  agreeably ;  in  the 
evening  we  arrived  at  Colgong,  which  presents  much  picturesque 


'/2  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

beauty  ;  four  rocky  islands  of  considerable  height,  rock  piled  on 
rock,  rise  and  stretch  across  the  centre  of  the  Ganges.  As  we 
sailed  past  them,  I  saw  five  or  six  of  the  smallest,  lightest,  and 
most  fairy-looking  httle  boats  gliding  about  the  rocks,  in  which 
men  were  fishing ;  the  fish  are  large,  excellent,  and  abundant. 
No  one  resides  on  these  rocks.  The  village  of  Kuhulgaon,  com- 
monly called  Colgong,  is  situated  under  some  hills,  and  prettily 
wooded.  The  cook  boat  not  having  arrived,  one  of  the  gentlemen 
fired  his  gun  oflT,  to  direct  the  men  where  to  find  us  ;  the  sound 
was  returned  from  the  rocks  four  times,  distinctly  and  loudly,  with 
an  interval  of  four  or  five  seconds  between  each  echo.  We  took  a 

walk  in  the  evening ;  Mr.  killed  a  flying  fox,  or  vampire 

bat,  such  a  curious-looking  animal,  with  a  most  intelligent  little 
face  ;  the  body  was  covered  with  hair ;  its  leathern  wings 
measured  from  tip  to  tip  three  feet  eight  inches  and  a  half. 

No  one  ought  to  take  up-country  dandees ;  they  ensure 
much  plague  and  trouble.  The  Bengalees  having  their  homes  in 
Calcutta,  do  not  desert  going  down  the  river.  At  Monghir  the 
manjhi  and  six  dandees  deserted  to  their  homes ;  this  detained 
and  annoyed  us. 

2nd. — Early  in  the  evening  we  anchored  at  Sickri-gali,  a 
place  close  upon  the  Rajmahal  Hills,  and  went  out  shooting. 
The  dandees,  with  long  poles,  accompanied  us  to  beat  the 
bushes.  The  people  say  wild  beasts  often  come  to  this  place  at 
night,  and  a  few  miles  below  there  is  good  tiger  shooting ;  we 
found  no  game,  being  too  near  the  village :  had  we  proceeded 
further  into  the  hills,  we  must  have  had  some  sport  in  the  wild 
country  around  them.  Night  came  on  ere  we  regained  the 
boats. 

3rd. — Mr. saUied   forth   with   his  beaters   to   try  the 

marshy  plain  under  the  hills  of  the  Sickri-gali  Pass.  The  cool 
morning  tempted  me  out,  and  the  first  person  whom  I  saw  was 
an  indigo  planter  standing  near  his  bungalow,  the  only  Euro- 
pean dwelling-house  at  the  place.  On  asking  him  where  good 
shooting  was  to  be  found,  he  said  the  road  the  gentleman  had  taken 
was  one  in  which  game  of  all  sorts  abounded,  but  that  on 
account  of  tigers  it  was  dangerous.     He  showed  me  the  marks 


THE    SPRING-BOW.  73 

of  tiger's  paws  in  his  garden.  His  account  rather  gave  me  a 
curiosity  to  see  the  sort  of  plain  where  such  animals  may  be 
found  ;  and  with  a  chaprasl,  and  a  bearer  carrying  a  large  chatr, 
I  took  the  road  to  the  rocks.  After  a  very  long  walk,  we  came 
to  a  most  suspicious-looking  spot,  surrounded  by  very  high 
jungle-grass,  beyond  which  stretched  the  deep  woods  and  hills  of 
Rajmahal.  "  In  this  direction,"  said  my  chaprasl,  "  is  the  very 
spot  frequented  by  tigers,  here  they  may  be  found ;"  and  we 
pushed  through  the  heavy  jungle  grass  from  nine  to  twelve  feet 
in  height,  and  so  thick  it  was  almost  impenetrable.  "  Here  is 
some  water,"  said  the  man,  "  and  here,  on  its  edge,  the  prints 
fresh  on  the  marshy  soil  of  the  feet  of  a  tiger !  Look,  look,  mem 
sahiba,  it  is  true,  it  is  true,  here  they  are  !  "  I  forced  a  passage 
for  myself  through  the  grass,  and  saw  the  foot-marks.  "  He 
who  has  never  seen  a  tiger,  let  him  look  at  a  cat ;  and  he  who 
has  never  seen  a  thief,  let  him  look  at  a  butcher '." 

My  anxiety  to  see  a  bete  sauvage,  a  royal  Bengal  tiger,  in  his 
native  wilderness,  making  me  forgetful  that  his  presence  might 
prove  dangerous,  induced  me  to  scan  the  jungle  on  every  side. 
"  Are  we  likely  to  see  a  tiger?  "  said  I  to  the  man.  "  Not  at  this 
hour,  mem  sahiba,  see,  the  sun  is  high  in  heaven  ;"  pointing  to 
the  hill,  "  they  are  up  there  in  the  recesses  of  the  mountain,  in 
the  shade  of  the  deep  forests  ;  when  the  shadows  of  evening  fall, 
if  the  mem  sahiba  will  return  to  this  spot  she  will  be  sure  to 
see  the  tigers,  at  that  hour  they  come  down  to  quench  their 
thirst  at  this  water."  At  night,  on  my  return  to  the  boats,  I 
remembered  the  words  of  the  chaprasl,  but  did  not  feel  inchned 
to  go  out  on  such  a  "  will-you-come-and-be-killed  "  expedition. 

On  this  spot  the  baghmars,  (tiger  killers,)  set  up  the  spring- 
bow  with  a  poisoned  arrow  :  the  bow  is  made  of  strong  bamboo, 
supported  on  two  cross  sticks,  to  one  end  of  which  a  string  is 
fastened  that  crosses  the  wild  beast's  track  ;  as  soon  as  the  tiger 
touches  the  cord  in  crossing  it  to  the  water's  edge,  it  releases 
the  bow-string,  and  the  arrow,  being  immediately  discharged 
with  great  force,  enters  the  body  of  the  beast  just  about  the 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  113. 


74  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

height  of  his  heart.  A  poisoned  arrow  was  thus  set  for  a  tiger 
in  Assam,  who  was  found  dead  sixty  yards  from  the  spot — so 
quickly  does  the  deadly  poison  take  effect.  A  further  account 
of  this  bow  will  be  found  in  a  subsequent  chapter.  The  place 
was  one  of  great  interest ;  the  water  was  surrounded  by  the 
high  grass  ;  on  one  side  was  a  cluster  of  forest  trees,  and  beneath 
them  the  sUght  and  deUcate  babul.  The  By 'a  birds  were  flitting 
about ;  they  delight  in  placing  their  long  nests  on  the  extreme 
end  of  the  slight  branches  of  the  babul,  pendant  over  a  stream 
or  pool  for  security.  For  a  further  account  of  these  sagacious 
little  birds,  see  vol.  i.  page  220. 

The  bright  sunshine,  the  deep  reflections  on  the  water,  the 
idea  that  there  was  danger  lurking  around,  all  combined  to 
render  this  picturesque  and  secluded  spot  one  of  great  interest. 

The  dandees  from  the  boats  that  anchor  at  Sikri-gall,  go  up 
the  hills  in  gangs  to  cut  wood  for  tiring,  and  bring  it  down  in 
great  quantities.  Following  their  track,  I  soon  joined  the  party 
who  were  shooting  snipes  in  the  marsh  at  the  foot  of  the  hills, 

and  at  the  moment  of  my  arrival,  Mr. was  busily  pulling 

the  leeches  oflT  his  ancles,  which  had  stuck  to  them  in  passing 
through  the  water.  Being  fagged  with  the  walk,  I  got  a  hackery 
from  a  village ;  it  is  a  sort  of  cart  made  of  bamboos  with  small, 
heavy,  clumsy,  wooden  wheels,  drawn  by  two  bullocks.  Seated  in 
this  conveyance,  I  desired  the  man  to  drive  me  into  the  hills. 
My  bones  were  half  dislocated,  bumping  up  and  down  in  such 
a  jungle  of  a  place,  over  high  stones  that  all  but  upset  the  cart, 
or  through  the  marsh  in  which  the  bullocks  sometimes  being 
unable  to  keep  on  their  feet,  took  six  or  seven  steps  on  their 
knees  ;  it  was  a  marvel  how  the  little  animals  got  on,  or  through 
such  places  as  we  crossed.  I  went  deep  into  the  hills,  admiring 
the  beautiful  climbers  that  were  in  the  greatest  profusion,  and  the 
bearer  gathered  all  the  novelties,  which  made  me  quite  happy  in 
my  cart,  surrounded  by  specimens  new  to  me.  At  last  the  driver 
sa.id  he  could  proceed  no  further ;  therefore  I  walked  up  the 
hill  some  distance  until  I  was  fagged :  the  view  was  very 
pleasing,  looking  down  the  valley  over  the  plain  to  the  Ganges, 
where  the  vessels  were  sailing  past.    At  a  bright  running  stream 


THE    HILL-MAN.  75 

I  gladly  quenched  my  thirst,  having  taken  no  breakfast,  and  it 
being  now  nearly  eleven  a.m.  Mounted  on  my  bone-breaking 
cart,  I  rejoined  my  friend,  who  had  only  killed  five  snipe  and 
another  bird.  He  saw  but  one  black  partridge,  no  deer;  the 
game  was  very  scarce. 

Elephants  here  are  absolutely  necessary  to  enable  a  man  to 
enjoy  shooting  amidst  the  high  grass  and  thorny  thickets.  The 
place  is  so  much  disturbed  by  the  people  who  go  into  the  hills 
for  wood,  that  the  game  retreat  farther  into  the  jungle.  Had 
we  had  an  elephant,  we  might  have  found  a  tiger ;  until  I  have 
seen  one  in  his  own  domains,  I  shall  not  sleep  in  peace.  The 
khidmatgars  arrived  on  a  cart  with  bread,  meat,  tea,  and  wine. 
It  being  one  p.m.,  and  the  sun  powerful,  we  seated  ourselves 
under  a  tree,  and  made  an  excellent  breakfast,  which  was  most 
refreshing  after  such  a  ramble. 

As  we  were  tossing  the  bones  to  the  little  spaniels,  we  met 
with  an  adventure,  which,  bringing  for  the  second  time  in  my 
life  uncivilized  beings  before  me,  quite  delighted  me.  The  foot- 
path from  the  interior  of  the  hills  led  to  the  place  where  we 
were  seated.  Down  this  path  came  a  most  delightful  group,  a 
family  of  savages,  who  attracted  my  attention  by  the  singularity 
of  their  features,  the  smallness  and  activity  of  their  bodies, 
their  mode  of  gathering  their  hair  in  a  knot  on  the  top  of 
their  heads,  and  their  wild-looking  bows  and  arrows.  We 
called  these  good-natured,  gay-looking  people  around  us  ;  they 
appeared  pleased  at  being  noticed,  and  one  of  the  women  offered 
me  some  young  heads  of  Indian  corn,  which  she  took  from  a 
basket  she  carried  on  her  head  containing  their  principal  pro- 
vision, this  boiled  and  mashed  Indian  corn.  She  also  carried  a 
child  seated  astride  upon  her  hip.  A  child  is  rarely  seen  in  a 
woman's  arms,  as  in  Europe.  The  same  custom  appears  to  have 
existed  amongst  the  Jews :  "Ye  shall  be  borne  upon  her  sides, 
and  dandled  upon  her  knees." — Isaiah. 

The  party  consisted  of  a  man  and  three  boys,  apparently 
eight,  twelve,  and  sixteen  years  of  age,  two  women,  and 
a  little  girl.  The  man  said  he  had  come  from  a  place  four  coss 
within  the  hills,  by  our  calculation  eight  miles,  but  hill  mea- 


76  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

surement  of  distance  being  generally  liberal,  I  should  suppose  it 
double  that  distance.     Their  descent  at  this  time  to  the  plains, 
was  to  help  in  gathering  in  the  present  crop  of  uncut  rice,  for 
which  purpose  the  owners  of  the  fields  had  asked  them  to  come 
down.      The   man  appeared  to  be  about  five  feet  in  height, 
remarkable   for  lightness    and   suppleness   of  limb,   with   the 
piercing  and  restless  eye  that  is  said  to  be  peculiar  to  savages. 
His  countenance  was  round  and  happy ;    the  expression  had 
both  cunning  and  simplicity ;  the  nose  depressed  between  the 
eyes,  and  altogether  a  face  that  one  laughed  to  look  at.     His 
black  hair  drawn  tight  up  in  a  knot  on  the  very  top  of  the  head, 
the  ends  fastened  in  with  a  wooden  comb.     His  only  clothing 
a  small  piece  of  linen  bound  around  his  middle.     He  carried  a 
bow  of  hill  bamboo,   the  string  of  which  was  formed  out  of 
the  twisted  rind  of  the  bamboo,  and  the  four  arrows  were  of 
the  common  reed,  headed  with  iron  barbs  of  different  shapes  ; 
one   of  the  barbs   was  poisoned.     The  hill-man  said  he  had 
bought  the  poison  into  which  the  barb  had  been  dipped  of  a 
more  remote  hill  tribe,  and  was  ignorant  of  its  nature  :  he  begged 
us   not   to  handle  the  point.     The  natives  will  not   mention 
the  name  of  the  plant  from  which  the  poison  is  procured ;  it 
appears  to  be  a  carefully-guarded  secret.     On  each  arrow  were 
strips  of  feather  from  the  wing  of  the  vulture.     The  boy  was 
similarly  dressed,  and  armed.     The  woman,  who  carried  the 
child,  appeared  to  be  the  favourite  from  the  number  of  orna- 
ments on  her  person.     She  was  extremely  small  in  stature,  but 
fat  and  well-looking.     Unlike  the  women  of  the  plains,  she  wore 
no  covering  on  her  head,  and  but  Uttle  on  her  body.     Two  or 
three  yards  of  cloth  were  around  her  waist,  and  descended  half 
way  below  the  knees ;  whilst  a  square  of  the  same  was  tied  over 
her  shoulders  like  a  monkey  mantle ;  passed  under  the  left  arm 
it  was  drawn  over  the  bosom,  and  the  ends  tied  on  the  shoulder 
of  the  right  arm.     Her  hair  was  tied  up  in  the  same  fashion  as 
the  man's.     Around  the  rim  of  each  ear  were  twenty-three  thin 
ear-rings  of  brass  ;  and  three  or  four  necklaces  of  red  and  white 
beads  hung  down  to  her  waist  in  gradations.     Her  nose-ring 
was  moderately  large  in  circumference,  but  very  heavy,  pulling 


POISONED    ARROWS.  77 

.down  the  right  nostril  by  its  weight ;  it  was  of  silver,  with  four 
large  beads,  and  an  ornament  of  curious  form.  She  had  thick 
purple  glass  rings  on  her  arms,  called  churees,  of  coarse  manu- 
facture, and  other  ornaments  which  I  forget,  something  of  the 
same  sort. 

She  talked  openly  and  freely.  I  took  the  man's  bow,  and  shot 
an  arrow  after  the  English  fashion  ;  at  which  the  whole  family 
laughed  excessively,  and  appeared  to  think  it  so  absurd  that  I 
should  not  draw  a  bow  in  the  style  of  a  mountaineer.  T  begged  the 
man  to  show  me  the  proper  method  ;  he  put  a  sort  of  ring  on  my 
thumb,  placed  my  right  forefinger  straight  along  the  arrow,  and 
bid  me  draw  it  by  the  force  of  the  string  catching  on  the 
thumb-ring.  I  did  so,  and  shot  my  arrow  with  better  aim  than 
when  pursuing  the  English  method.  His  happiness  was  great 
on  my  giving  him  a  rupee  for  a  bow,  two  arrows,  one  of  which 
was  the  poisoned  one,  and  the  thumb-ring.  He  said  his  em- 
ployment consisted  principally  in  shooting  animals  at  night  by 
laying  in  wait  for  them.  He  crouched  down  on  the  ground  to 
show  the  way  of  laying  in  wait  for  wild  hogs.  On  seeing  a 
hog  near,  he  would  immediately  spring  to  his  feet  and  shoot  his 
arrow,  drawing  it  quite  to  the  head.  Sometimes  they  kill  hogs 
with  poisoned  arrows  ;  nevertheless  they  feed  upon  the  animals, 
taking  care  to  cut  out  the  flesh  around  the  arrow  the  instant  the 
hog  falls.  He  told  us  he  had  but  one  wife,  his  tiri,  the  hill- 
man's  name  for  wife,  whom  he  had  left  at  home  ;  perhaps  the 
tiri  was  an  abbreviation  of  istirl,  or  tiriyd,  wife. 

After  our  long  conversation  with  the  savages  we  bade  them 
adieu,  and  my  parting  present  was  a  pink  silk  handkerchief  for 
his  tiri  in  the  Hills.  We  returned  at  two  p.m.  to  the  boats,  com- 
pletely fagged,  with  the  accompaniment  of  headaches  from  the 
heat  of  the  sun  :  unmoored  the  vessels,  and  with  a  good  breeze 
reached  Rajmahal  at  dark.  During  our  absence  some  hill-men 
came  to  the  boats,  and  offered  bows  to  the  dandees,  begging  in 
exchange  a  piece  of  linen.  They  parted  with  them  afterwards  for 
one  halfpenny  a  piece.  I  must  not  omit  to  mention  the  magni- 
ficent wild  climber,  the  Cachnar,  Bauhinia  scandens,  which  I 
gathered  in  the  pass.     The  leaves  are  of  immense  size,  heart- 


78  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

shaped,  and  two  lobed :  they  collapse  during  the  night.  It  is  called 
Bauhinia  from  two  botanical  brothers,  John  and  Caspar  Bauhin, 
who,  like  its  leaves,  were  separate  and  yet  united.  The  Cachndr 
at  Allahabad  is  a  beautiful  tree,  but  its  leaves  are  not  so  luxu- 
riantly large  as  those  of  the  wild  creeper  of  the  Rajmahal  Hills. 
A  cold  bath  and  a  late  dinner  restored  me  to  comfortable  feel- 
ings, and  thus  ended  my  adventures,  and  a  happy  day  in  the 
Hills  of  the  SikrI-gali  Pass. 


CHAPTER    XLV. 


THE  RUINS  OF  GAUR. 

Sporting  at  Rajmahal — Ruins  of  the  Palace  of  the  Nawab — Brahman!  Ducks — • 
The  Ruins  of  Gaur — The  Dakait — An  Adventure — Beautiful  Ruins — Pan- 
gardens — The  Kadam  Sharif — Curious  Coins  —  Jungle  Fever  —  Casowtee 
Stone — Fields  of  the  Mustard  Plant — Ancient  Bricks — Fakirs  tame  Alligators 
— Salt  Box — An  Account  of  the  Ruins  of  Gaur. 

1836,  Bee.  4th. — Early  this  morning  Mr.  S crossed  the 

river  opposite  Rajmahal,  with  his  beaters  and  two  little  spaniels  ; 
he  killed  six  brace  of  birds,  but  was  unable  to  secure  more  than 
seven  of  them,  from  the  jungly  nature  of  the  ground ;  the  birds 
are  partridges  of  a  particular  sort,  only  found,  sportsmen  say, 
at  Rajmahal  and  one  other  place  in  India,  the  name  of  which  I 
forget.  At  one  spot  the  beaters  were  uncertain  whether  they 
saw  a  stranded  boat  or  an  alhgator ;  it  was  a  magar,  the  snub- 
nosed  alligator.     Mr.  S put  a  bullet  into  his  body  about 

the  fore-paw,  the  animal  turned  over  in  the  river  with  a  great 
splash,  beating  up  the  mud  with  his  tail  in  his  agony,  and  dis- 
appeared under  the  water.  The  magars  are  bold  and  fierce,  the 
crocodiles  timid,  and  it  is  supposed  they  do  not  venture  to 
attack  mankind  ;  nevertheless,  young  children  have  been  found 
in  their  bodies  when  caught. 

During  this  time  I  rambled  over  the  ruins  of  the  old  palace, 
which  is  fast  falUng  into  the  river;  the  principal  rooms  still 


b 


80  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

standing  now  contain  a  quantity  of  coal,  the  warehouse  of  the 
steamers ;  it  must  have  been  a  handsome  building  in  former 
days ;  the  marble  floor  of  the  mosque  remains,  and  a  fine  well. 
My  guide  told  me  that  at  Gaur  is  a  fine  place,  belonging  to  this 
Nawiib,  now  in  ruins.  All  around  Rajmahal  is  a  beautiful 
jungle  of  magnificent  bamboos ;  such  fine  clumps,  interspersed 
with  date  palm  trees,  overshadowing  the  cottages,  around  which 
were  a  number  of  small  cows,  and  fowls  of  a  remarkably  good 
breed ;  every  thing  had  an  air  of  comfort.  The  walks  in  all 
directions  were  so  cool  and  pleasing,  that  it  was  very  late  ere  I 
could  induce  myself  to  return  to  breakfast.  The  inhabitants  of 
this  pleasant  jungle  are  accounted  great  thieves  ;  an  idea  quite 
the  contrary  is  given  from  the  comfortable  appearance  of  their 
cottages  under  the  clumps  of  bamboos,  close  to  the  river,  which 
is  covered  with  A'^essels  passing  up  and  down. 

5th. — The  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  of  Gaur  are  laid  down  as 
at  no  very  great  distance  from  the  Ganges.  We  were  very 
anxious  to  visit  the  place,  and  therefore,  quitting  the  Ganges, 
entered  the  little  river,  the  BaugruttI  sota,  up  which,  at  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile,  is  the  village  of  Dulalpur :  off"  the  latter 
place  we  moored  our  vessels,  being  unable  to  proceed  higher  up 
from  the  shallowness  of  the  water. 

We  explored  the  nala  in  a  dinghee,  a  small  boat,  and  seeing 
two  wild  fowl  (murghabi) ,  I  requested  my  companion  to  shoot 
one.  "They  are  BrahmanI  ducks,  I  do  not  like  to  kill  them," 
he  replied ;  I  persisted  ;  he  fired,  and  shot  the  male  bird,  the 
chakwa,  it  fell  into  the  niila,  close  to  the  boat ;  the  hen  bird, 
utterly  unmindful  of  the  gun,  flew  round  and  round  the  dinghee, 
uttering  the  most  mournful  cries  over  the  dead  body  of  her 
mate  ;  poor  bird,  with  merciful  cruelty  we  let  her  live  ; — never 
again  will  I  separate  the  chakwa,  chakwi.  The  following  is  an 
extract  from  Forbes'  Hindustani  Dictionary: — "Duck  (wild) 
chakwi,  chakaT.  This  is  the  large  duck  or  goose,  well 
known  in  India  by  the  name  of  Brahmani  goose  or  duck,  and 
in  the  poetry  of  the  Hindus,  is  their  turtle-dove,  for  constancy 
and  connubial  affection,  with  the  singular  circumstance  of 
the  pair  having  been  doomed  for  ever  to  nocturnal  separation, 


BRAHMANI    DXJCKS.  81 

for  having  offended  one  of  the  Hindu  divinities  in  days  of  yore  ; 
whence — 

"  Chaliwa  chakwT  do  jane  ...  in  mat  maro  ko,e  ; 
Ye  mare  kartar  ke  .  .  .  rain  bichhora  ko,e." 

(Let  no  one  kill  the  male  or  female  chakwa  ; 

They,  for  their  deeds,  are  doomed  to  pass  their  nights  in  separation.) 

"  According  to  the  popular  belief,  the  male  and  female  of 
these  birds  are  said  to  occupy  the  opposite  banks  of  a  water  or 
stream  regularly  every  evening,  and  to  exclaim  the  live-long  night 
to  each  other  thus  : — 

"  Chakwl,  main  a,iin  ?      Nahin  nahin,  chakwa. 
Cliakwa,  main  a,  ijn  ?     Nahin  nahin,  chakwT." 

The  darogha,  the  head  man  of  the  adjacent  village,  came 
down  to  the  boats  to  make  salam,  and  offered  me  the  use  of  two 
horses  for  visiting  Gaur ;  and  a  gentleman  from  the  indigo 
factory  of  Chandnl  Kothi,  two  miles  distant,  had  the  kindness 
to  say  he  would  lend  me  an  elephant. 

Dec.  6th. — Early  in  the  morning  a  man  was  seen  watching 
and  lurking  about  the  boats  ;  therefore  I  desired  the  khidmatgar 
to  put  as  few  spoons  and  forks  on  the  breakfast-table  as  possible, 
lest  the  sight  of  silver  might  bring  thieves  to  the  boats  at  night : 
the  suspicious-looking  man  carried  in  his  hand  a  long  and  pecu- 
liarly shaped  brass  lota,  a  drinking-vessel. 

The  darogha  sent  the  horses,  and  the  elephant  arrived,  with 
an  invitation  to  our  party  to  go  to  the  factory,  where  we  found 

Mr.  S very  weak,  recovering  from  jungle  fever ;  but  his 

friend,  Mr.  M ,  promised  to  show  us  the  ruins.  They  de- 
tained us  to  tiffin  at  3  p.m.,  after  which,  my  side-saddle  having 
been  put  on  one  of  the  horses,  I  was  ready  to  start ;  when  Mr. 

M recommended  my  going  on  the  elephant,  on  account  of 

the   deepness    of  the  swamps  we  should   have   to   pass   over.  ■ 
Accordingly  I  mounted  the  elephant ;  a  number  of  men  attended 
us,  amongst  whom  were  three  hill-men,  with  their  bows  and 

arrows  ;  Mr.  M mounted  his  horse ;  we  went  on,  and  lost 

sight  of  him.     The  factory  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  jungle, 

VOL.   II.  G 


82  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

the  ground  park-like  around,  good  trees,  a  great  number  of  tanks 
of  fine  water,  and  a  large  space  of  morass  in  different  directions, 
filled  with  high  jungle  grass.  My  companion  took  his  gun,  he 
is  an  excellent  shot ;  nevertheless,  on  account  of  the  unusual 
motion  on  a  pad,  from  the  back  of  the  elephant  he  missed  his 
game  most  strangely.  We  started  by  far  too  late,  in  spite  of 
which  we  saw  eight  wild   boars,   three  hog  deer,   one  black 

partridge,  two  snipe,  and  nine  or  ten  monkeys.     Mr.  M did 

not  join  us,  and  we  marvelled  at  his  non-appearance.  On  our 
return  he  assisted  me  as  I  descended  the  ladder  from  the  back  of 
the  kneeling  elephant,  and  said  he  had  been  almost  murdered. 
He  related  that  he  quitted  the  house,  and  having  gone  half  a 
mile,  was  looking  for  us,  when  a  man  tending  cows  called  to  him, 

and  said,  "A  party  on  an  elephant  are  gone  that  way."  Mr.  M 

turned  his  horse  to  the  point  indicated,  when  the  cowherd 
struck  him  two  blows  with  a  stick,  which  almost  knocked  him 

from  his  horse;  as  the  fellow  aimed  the  third  blow,  Mr.  M 

wrenched  the  stick  from  his  hand,  and  cut  his  forehead  open  with 
a  blow  over  the  eye.  The  dakait,  or  daku,  for  he  was  a  robber 
by  profession,  ran  away  ;  the  gentleman  followed.  The  dakait, 
who  had  a  brass  vessel  ftiU  of  water  in  his  hand,  swung  it  round 
most  dexterously  from  the  end  of  a  string,  not  suffering  the 

water  to  escape,  and  sent  it  right  at  Mr.  M ;  it  missed  him, 

and  fell  on  the  horse's  head.  The  robber  then  seized  him  by 
the  collar,  and  pulled  him  from  his  horse;  they  struggled 
together,  trying  to  throttle  each  other,  and  the  daku  bit  him 

severely   in   several  places ;    at  last  Mr.  M made  him  a 

prisoner,  returned  to  the  factory,  and  having  bound  his  arms, 
he  secured  him  to  a  pillar  in  the  verandah,  tying  his  long  hair 
also  to  the  post,  to  prevent  his  escape.  We  returned  from  the 
shooting  expedition  just  after  all  this  had  happened,  and  found 
the  ground  at  the  man's  feet  covered  with  blood ;  he  appeared 
to  be  a  daring  and  resolute  character.  On  being  questioned  as 
,t()  his  motives  by  the  gentlemen,  he  pretended  not  to  understand 
Hindustani,  and  to  be  an  idiot.  I  went  alone  into  the  verandah  : 
"  O,  my  grandmother,  my  grandmother!  Nani  Ma,  Nam  Ma, 
saye  me  !"  exclaimed  the  man ;  "  did  I  not  bring  you  milk  this 


THE    UAKAIT.  83 

morning  ?"  "  Yes,"  said  my  bearer,  "  that  is  true  enough;  I 
know  the  man  by  the  peculiar  shape  of  his  brass  lota ;  he  was 
lurking  about  the  vessel,  and  when  spoken  to  said  he  had 
brought  milk  ;  the  khidmatgar  took  it  for  his  own  use,  refusing 
to  give  me  a  portion."  This  was  the  man  I  had  observed  in  the 
morning ;  he  was  remarkably  well  formed,  light  and  active,  with 
muscles  well  developed ;  the  beauty  of  his  form  was  not  hidden 
by  any  superfluous  clothing,  having  merely  a  small  portion  of 
linen  around  his  loins  ;  his  body  was  well  oiled,  and  slippery  as 
an  eel, — a  great  advantage  in  a  personal  struggle,  it  being  scarcely 
possible  to  retain  hold  on  a  well-oiled  skin.  He  told  me  he  had 
been  sent  by  an  indigo-planter  from  the  other  side  of  the  river, 

to  take  Mr.  M 's  life.     On  mentioning  this  to  the  gentlemen, 

I  found  the  men  of  his  factory  on  the  opposite  side  the  river  had 
quarrelled  about  a  well  with  the  men  of  another  factory,  and  in 

the  affray,  one  of  Mr.  M 's  hill-men  had  run  the  head  man 

of  the  opposite  party  right  through  the  body  with  an  arrow ;  it 

was  unknown  whether  it  had  proved  fatal,  and  Mr.  M had 

crossed  the  river,  awaiting  the  result  of  the  unfortunate  affair. 
It  was  supposed  the  dakait  had  been  on  the  watch  for  some  time, 
prowUng  about  the  place  as  a  cowherd,  and  attacked  the  indigo- 
planter,  finding  him  alone  and  far  from  his  servants,  the  latter 
having  proceeded  with  the  party  on  the  elephant.  The  robber 
tending  the  cows  was  serving  under  the  orders  of  the  darogha  of 
the  village,  who  had  lent  me  the  horses ;  I  was  informed  the 
latter  was  a  regular  dakait,  and  was  recommended  to  remove  my 
boats  from  the  vicinity  of  his  village,  which,  I  understand,  is 
fuU  of  robbers,  and  close  to  Dulalpiir.  We  returned  to  our 
boats ;  this  most  disagreeable  adventure  made  me  nervous  ;  the 
guns  and  pistols  were  looked  to,  that  they  might  be  in  readiness 
in  case  of  attack  ;  it  was  late  at  night,  and  I  proposed  crossing 
to  the  other  side  of  the  Ganges ;  but  the  manjhi  assured  me 
there  was  more  to  be  feared  from  the  violence  of  the  stream,  if 
we  attempted  to  cross  the  river  during  the  darkness  of  the  night, 
than  from  the  vicinity  of  the  diikaits. 

7th. — We    breakfasted    at    the    factory,    and   then,    having 
mounted  a  fine  tractable  male   elephant,    well   broken   in   for 

g2 


84  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

sporting,  and  showing  very  large  tusks,  we  proceeded  towards 
Gaur,  visiting  all  the  ruins  en  route,  and  shooting  from  the  back 
of  the  elephant  as  game  arose  in  the  thick  jungle  and  amongst 
the  fine  ti-ees  which  surrounded  the  tanks  in  every  direction. 
The  countiy  around  one  of  the  principal  ruins  is  remarkably 
beautifiil ;  the  rain  stands  on  a  rising  ground,  covered  with  the 
silk  cotton  tree,  the  date  palm,  and  various  other  trees ;  and 
there  was  a  large  sheet  of  water,  covered  by  high  jungle  grass, 
rising  far  above  the  heads  of  the  men  who  were  on  foot. 

On  the  clear  dark  purple  water  of  a  large  tank  floated  the 
lotus  in  the  wildest  luxuriance ;  over  all  the  trees  the  jungle 
climbers  had  twisted  and  twined ;  and  the  parasitical  plants,  with 
their  red  flowers,  were  in  bunches  on  the  branches.  The  white 
granite  pillars  in  some  parts  of  the  ruin  were  erect,  in  others 
prostrate  ;  a  number  of  the  pillars  were  of  black  stone. 

The  Mahawat,  as  we  were  going  over  this  rain,  told  us,  "  This 
is  the  favourite  resort  of  tigers,  and  in  the  month  of  Bysak  they 
are  here  in  considerable  number  ;  now  you  may  meet  with  one, 
but  it  is  unlikely."  My  curiosity  so  far  overcame  any  fear,  I 
could  not  help  looking  with  longing  eyes  into  the  deep  jungle- 
grass,  as  we  descended  into  and  crossed  the  water,  half-hoping, 
half-fearing,  to  see  a  tiger  skulking  along. 

The  Sona  Masjid,  or  Golden  Mosque,  most  particularly  pleased 
me ;  its  vastness  and  solidity  give  the  sensation  one  experiences  in 
the  gloomy  massive  aisles  of  a  cathedral.  I  will  not  particularly 
describe  the  rains,  but  will  add  a  description  I  was  allowed  to 
copy,  written  by  Mr.  Chambers,  an  indigo-planter,  who,  having 
lived  at  Gaur  for  thirty-six  years,  has  had  the  opportunity  of 
more  particularly  inspecting  them  than  was  in  my  power.  I 
brought  away  many  of  the  ornamented  bricks,  and  those  glazed 
with  a  sort  of  porcelain,  something  like  Dutch  tiles. 

The  gateway  of  the  fort,  with  its  moat  below,  is  fine ;  the 
ramparts  are  covered  with  large  trees.  Lying  in  a  field  beyond 
the  ramparts  is  a  tombstone  of  one  single  block  of  black 
marble,  an  enormous  mass  of  solid  marble.  At  5  p.m.  the 
khidmatgiirs  informed  us  that  two  chakor  (perdix  chukar)  and  a 
wild  duck,  having  been  roasted  in  gipsy  fashion  under  the  trees, 


THE    MINAR.  85 

dinner  was  ready  ;  we  seated  ourselves  near  one  of  the  ruins,  and 
partook  of  refreshment  with  infinite  glee.  No  sooner  was  it 
ended,  than,  remounting  the  elephant,  we  went  to  the  ruins  of  a 
hunting  tower :  approaching  it  from  every  point,  it  is  a  beautiful 
object  seen  above  the  woods,  or  through  the  intervals  between 
the  trees.  Akbar  beautified  the  city,  and  may  probably  have 
built  this  circular  tower, — a  column  of  solid  masonry,  within 
which  winds  a  circular  stair.  At  Fathlpur  Sicri  is  a  tower, 
somewhat  of  a  similar  description,  built  by  Akbar,  and  used  as 
a  hunting  tower ;  people  were  sent  forth  to  drive  the  game  from 
every  part  towards  the  minar,  from  the  top  of  which  the  emperor 
massacred  his  game  at  leisure.  This  tower  at  Gaur,  much  more 
beautifully  situated,  with  a  greater  command  of  country,  may 
have  been  used  for  a  similar  purpose.  The  building  is  on  a 
larger  scale,  and  much  handsomer  than  the  one  at  Fathlpur  Sicrl. 

My  companion  mounted  the  hunting  tower ;  climbing  up  the 
broken  stones,  a  feat  of  some  difficulty,  he  went  up  to  the  dome, 
which  is  now  in  ruins,  though  its  egg  shape  may  be  clearly  traced. 
The  view  pleased  him  :  he  was  anxious  I  should  ascend  ;  but  I  was 
deterred  by  the  difficulty  of  climbing  up  to  the  entrance  porch, 
which  is  of  carved  black  stone  and  very  handsome. 

There  is  one  thing  to  observe  with  relation  to  the  buildings  : 
judging  from  the  exterior  ornaments  on  the  stones,  they  would 
be  pronounced  Muhammadan  ;  but,  on  taking  out  the  stones,  the 
other  side  presents  Hindoo  images ;  as  if  the  conquerors  had 
just  turned  and  ornamented  the  stones  according  to  their  own 
fashion.  The  Hindoo  idols  around  Gaur  have  generally  been 
broken ;  the  interior  of  the  buildings,  presenting  pillars  of 
massive  stone,  appear  to  me  Hindoo :  this  point  I  leave  to  the 
learned,  and  rest  content  myself  with  admiring  their  fallen 
grandeur.  The  peepul  tree  and  the  banyan  spring  from  the 
crevices,  twisting  their  roots  between  the  masses  of  stone, 
destroying  the  buildings  with  great  rapidity  ;  the  effect,  never- 
theless, is  so  picturesque,  one  cannot  wish  the  foliage  to  be 
destroyed.  Crossing  a  bridge,  we  saw  what  I  supposed  to  be 
the  dry  trunk  of  a  tree  ;  it  was  a  large  alligator  asleep  on  the 
edge  of  a  morass.     Mr.  S fired,  the  ball  struck  him  just 


86  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

below  the  shoulders,  and  from  the  paralyzed  appearance  of  the 
animal  must  have  entered  the  spine  ;  he  opened  his  enormous 
jaws  and  uttered  a  cry  of  agony.  A  second  bullet  missed  him  ; 
he  made  an  effort,  and  slipped  over  into  the  water,  which  became 
deeply  dyed  with  his  blood.  Every  tank  is  full  of  alligators. 
He  sank  to  the  bottom,  and  the  dandees  lost  a  meal,  by  them 
considered  very  agreeable.  I  roamed  on  the  elephant  until  it 
was  very  dark,  when  I  got  into  the  palanquin  ;  one  of  the  party 
rode  by  its  side,  and  amused  himself  by  catching  fire-flies  in 
his  hand,  and  throwing  them  into  the  palkee.  How  beautifully 
the  fire-flies  flitted  about  over  the  high  jungle  grass  that  covered 
the  morasses  !  As  they  crossed  before  the  dark  foliage  of  the 
trees,  they  were  seen  in  pecuUar  brilliancy. 

In  the  jungle,  I  saw  several  pan  gardens,  carefiilly  covered 
over.  Pan  (piper  betel),  a  species  of  pepper  plant,  is  cultivated 
for  its  leaves ;  the  vine  itself  is  perennial,  creeping,  very  long, 
and  rooting  at  all  the  joints  ;  the  leaves  have  an  aromatic  scent 
and  pungent  taste.  In  India,  of  which  it  is  a  native,  it  is  pro- 
tected from  the  effect  of  the  weather  by  screens  made  of  bamboo. 
The  root  of  the  pan,  called  khoolinjan,  as  a  medicine,  is  held  in 
high  estimation,  and  is  considered  an  antidote  to  poison. 

In  one  of  the  buildings  you  are  shown  the  kadam  sharIf,  or 
the  prints  of  the  honoured  feet  of  the  prophet ;  over  which 
is  a  silken  canopy.  The  door  is  always  fastened,  and  a  pious 
Musalman  claps  his  hands  three  times,  and  utters  some  holy 
words  ere  he  ventures  to  cross  the  threshold.  This  ceremony 
omitted,  is,  they  say,  certain  and  instantaneous  death  to  the 
impious  wretch:  but  this  penalty  only  attaches  itself  to  the 
followers  of  the  prophet,  as  we  found  no  ill  effect  from  the 
omission.  In  the  Qanoon-e-islam  the  history  of  the  kadam-i- 
rasUl,  the  footstep  of  the  prophet, is  said  to  be  as  follows :  "As 
the  prophet  (the  peace  and  blessing  of  God  be  with  him  !) ,  after 
the  battle  of  Ohud  (one  of  the  forty  or  fifty  battles  in  which  the 
.prophet  had  been  personally  engaged),  was  one  day  ascending  a 
hill,  in  a  rage,  by  the  heat  of  his  passion  the  mountain  softened 
into  the  consistence  of  wax,  and  retained,  some  say  eighteen, 
others  forty  impressions  of  his  feet.     When  the  angel  Gabriel 


THE    BLESSED    FEET    OF    THE    PROPHET.  8t 

(peace  be  unto  him  !)  brought  the  divhie  revelation  that  it  did 
not  become  him  to  get  angry,  the  prophet  (the  peace !  &c.) 
inquired  what  was  the  cause  of  this  rebuke.  Gabriel  replied, 
'  Look  behind  you  for  a  moment  and  behold.'  His  excellency, 
when  he  perceived  the  impressions  of  his  feet  on  the  stones, 
became  greatly  astonished,  and  his  wrath  immediately  ceased. 
Some  people  have  these  very  impressions,  while  others  make 
artificial  ones  to  imitate  them.  Some  people  keep  a  qudum-e- 
russool,  footstep  of  the  prophet,  or  the  impression  of  a  foot  on 
stone  in  their  houses,  placed  in  a  box,  and  covered  with  a 
mahtabee  or  tagtee  covering ;  and  this,  they  say,  is  the  impres- 
sion of  the  foot  of  the  prophet  (the  peace !  &c.). 

"  On  this  day  (the  bara-wufat)  such  places  are  elegantly  deco- 
rated. Having  covered  the  chest  with  moqeish  and  zurbaft, 
they  place  the  qudum-e-moobarik  (blessed  foot)  on  it,  or 
deposit  it  in  a  taboot ;  and  place  all  round  it  beautiful  moorch'- 
huls  or  chawn-urs ;  and  as  at  the  Mohurrum  festival,  so  now, 
they  illuminate  the  house,  have  music,  burn  frankincense,  wave 
moorch'huls  over  it.  Five  or  six  persons,  in  the  manner  of  a 
song  or  murseea,  repeat  the  mowlood,  dorood  Qoran,  his  mow- 
jeezay  (or  miracles) ,  and  wafat  nama  (or  the  history  of  his  death)  ; 
the  latter  in  Hindostanee,  in  order  that  the  populace  may 
comprehend  it,  and  feel  for  him  sympathy  and  sorrow." 

Some  Muhammadan  tombs  are  also  shown  here :  the  place  is 
embowered  in  fine  trees,  on  the  branches  of  which  are  hundreds 
of  monkeys  flinging  themselves  from  branch  to  branch  in  every 
direction.  The  fakir  in  charge  of  the  kadam-i-mubarak,  the 
blessed  foot,  asked  alms ;  which  I  promised  to  bestow,  if  he 
would  bring  me  some  of  the  old  rupees,  or  any  coin  dug  up  in 
Gaur.  Coins  in  great  numbers  are  continually  found,  but  the 
poor  people  are  afraid  of  showing  any  treasure  in  their  pos- 
session, for  fear  of  being  made  to  give  it  up  to  the  Company.  I 
was  unable  to  procure  any ;  stQl  I  hope,  through  my  fi"iends  at 
the  factory,  to  get  a  few.  The  silver  coins  are  very  large  and 
thin.  A  curiosity  of  carved  sandal -wood  was  shown  in  the 
building  of  the  Kadam  Sharif:  its  name  I  forget. 

After  this  long  day  spent  in  exploring  the  ruins,  we  stopped 


88  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

at  the  factory.  Mr.  S blamed  us  highly  for  having  re- 
mained so  late  in  the  jungle,  on  account  of  the  fever,  so  hkely 
to  be  caught  after  sunset.  With  him  we  found  Mr.  Chambers, 
also  an  indigo-planter,  who  gave  me  a  specimen  taken  out  of  a 
casowtee  stone.  In  boring  the  stone  for  some  water  in  the 
factory,  a  portion,  which  appeared  to  consist  of  gold  and 
silver,  incorporated  with  the  stone,  fell  out.  The  casowtee 
stone  is  esteemed  very  valuable ;  its  colour  is  black :  this 
was  dug  up  in  the  Rakabud  Mosque  at  Gaur.  Having  thanked 
our  new  acquaintances  for  their  great  attention  and  hospitahty, 
we  returned  to  the  boats.  I  was  much  over-fatigued,  and  ached 
in  every  limb  from  the  motion  of  the  elephant,  one  accounted 
exceedingly  rough.  The  former  night  the  fear  of  robbery  had 
rendered  me  sleepless ;  that  night  I  was  so  much  fatigued,  a 
dakait  would  have  had  hard  work  to  awaken  me. 

The  country  around  Gaur  is  very  open,  interspersed  with 
innumerable  fine  tanks,  surrounded  by  large  trees.  The  fields 
present  one  sheet  of  golden  colour  in  every  direction  ;  the  sarson 
was  in  Ml  flower,  its  yellow  flowers  looking  so  gay  amidst  the 
trees,  the  old  ruins,  and  the  sheets  of  water.  The  sarson  (sina- 
pis  dichotoma)  is  one  of  the  species  of  mustard  plant  cultivated 
in  Bengal  in  great  quantities  on  account  of  the  oil  extracted 
from  the  seeds,  which  is  used  for  burning  in  lamps  and  in 
Hindustani  cookery.  The  bricks  of  which  the  buildings  are 
composed  are  very  small  and  thin,  very  strongly  burned,  and 
very  heavy,  united  with  lime  alone,  no  mortar  having  been 
used  with  it,  which  accounts  for  the  durability  of  the  ruins,  and 
the  great  difiiculty  of  detaching  a  brick  from  any  part,  so  firm  is 
the  cement. 

I  am  told  the  tanks  are  full  of  alligators ;  the  crocodile  is  in 
the  Ganges,  but  not  in  the  tanks  at  Gaur ;  and  these  fierce 
snub-nosed  alligators  in  some  tanks  are  quite  tame,  coming  up 
at  the  call  of  the  fakirs,  and  taking  the  offerings  of  living  kids 
from  their  hands  :  cattle  are  often  seized  and  devoured  by  them. 

8th. — I  awoke  much  too  weary  to  attempt  hog-hunting, 
although  the  elephants  were  attired  on  the  bank.  Close  to,  and 
on  the  right  of  Dulalpur,  hares,  black  partridge,  and  peacocks 


RUINS    OF    GAUR.  89 

were  numerous.  In  the  marshes  were  wild  hogs  in  droves  of 
from  two  to  three  hundred ;  and  little  pigs  squeaking  and  run- 
ning about  were  seen  with  several  of  the  droves. 

The  gentleman  who  went  out  on  the  elephant  returned, 
bringing  with  him  two  large  wild  boars  and  a  young  hog.  We 
had  the  tusks  extracted,  and  gave  the  meat  to  the  servants,  I 
being  too  much  a  Musalmani  myself  to  eat  hogs'  flesh  of  any 
sort  or  description.  The  Rajpiits  will  eat  the  flesh  of  the  wild 
boar,  although  they  abhor  the  flesh  of  domesticated  swine. 

Mr.  Chambers  came  down  to  the  river,  where  he  had  eight 
boats  containing  indigo  to  the  value  of  two  lakh.  He  showed 
me  some  fine  old  casowtee  stones  covered  with  Hindoo  images, 
dug  up  in  Gaur,  and  gave  me  some  specimens  of  the  Gaur 
bricks  ;  the  stones  he  is  sending  home  to  the  owner  of  the 
factory,  Lord  Glenelg.  From  the  hill-men  in  charge  of  the 
indigo  boats,  I  procured  what  is  used  by  them  as  a  salt-box,  and 
was  of  their  own  making  ;  merely  one  joint  of  a  thick  bamboo 
ciiriously  carved  and  painted,  in  the  hollow  of  which  they 
carry  their  salt.  They  gave  me  also  an  arrow  for  bruising, 
with  a  head  of  iron  like  a  bullet.  Thus  ended  a  most  interest- 
ing visit ;  and  to  this  account  I  will  add  Mr.  Chambers'  descrip- 
tion of  the  place,  copied  from  his  manuscript. 

"  THE    RUINS   OF   GAUR. 

"  The  ancient  city  of  Gaur,  said  to  have  been  the  capital  of 
Bengal,  seven  himdred  and  fifty  years  before  the  commencement 
of  the  Christian  era,  is  now  an  uninhabited  waste.  It  is  situated 
on  the  east  side  of  the  Ganges,  and  runs  nearly  in  a  direction 
with  it  from  s.e.  to  n.n.w.,  about  twenty-five  miles  below  Raj- 
mahal.  It  lies  in  n.  lat.  24°  53',  and  in  e.  long.  88°  14',  and 
is  supposed  by  Rennell  to  be  the  Gangia  regia  of  Ptolemy.  It 
has  borne  various  names ;  it  was  formerly  called  Lutchmavutee 
or  Lucknowtee,  as  well  as  Gaur ;  and  when  repaired  and  beauti- 
fied in  1575,  by  the  great  Akbar,  who  is  said  to  have  been  par- 
ticularly attached  to  this  city,  it  received  from  him  the  name  of 
Zennuttabad,  from  his  fancying  it  a  kind  of  terrestrial  Paradise. 
The  extent  of  the  city  appears,  from  the  old  embankments  which 


90  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

enclosed  it  on  every  side,  to  have  been  ten  miles  long  and  two 
miles  broad.  These  banks  were  sufficiently  capable  of  guarding 
it  from  floods  during  the  rising  of  the  Granges,  when  the  rest  of 
the  country  was  inundated,  as  well  as  defending  the  place  from 
an  enemy,  as  there  are  mounds  of  ecirth  from  thirty  to  forty 
feet  in  height,  and  from  one  to  two  hundred  feet  broad  at 
the  base,  the  removal  of  the  earth  forming  deep  broad  ditches 
on  the  outside  of  the  banks.  Some  of  these  embankments 
were  defended  by  brickwork.  On  the  outside,  the  city  has  two 
embankments  two  hundred  feet  wide,  running  parallel  to  each 
other,  at  five  hundred  and  eighty  feet  asunder,  probably  for 
greater  security  against  a  large  lake  to  the  eeistward,  which  in 
strong  weather  drives  with  great  violence  against  it  during  the 
season  of  the  inundations.  The  principal  passes  through  these 
banks  to  the  city  had  gateways,  two  of  which,  one  at  the  south 
end,  and  the  other  at  the  north  end,  are  still  standing,  and  the 
remains  of  others  that  have  been  destroyed  are  visible.  The 
suburbs  extended  (there  being  sufficient  vestiges  of  them  to  be 
traced)  at  least  to  a  distance  of  four  miles  from  each  of  those 
gates.  Two  grand  roads  led  through  the  whole  length  of  the 
city,  raised  with  earth  and  paved  with  bricks,  terminating  with 
the  gate  at  the  south  end.  Where  drains  and  canals  intersected 
the  roads,  are  the  remains  of  bridges  built  over  them. 

"  The  buildings  and  mosques  must  have  been  very  numerous  ; 
the  rubbish  and  stones  of  which  still  left,  point  out  the  places 
where  they  stood.  The  two  called  golden  mosques,  and  the 
Nuttee  Musjeed,  are  doubtless  the  best  buildings  of  that  kind. 

"In  the  midst  of  the  city  stood  a  fort,  nearly  square,  and  ex- 
tending about  a  mile  on  every  side,  which  had  a  bank  or  rampart 
forty  feet  high :  there  is  a  wall  now  remaining  nearly  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  in  extent,  and  in  some  places  between  seventy  and 
eighty  feet  in  height,  which  smrounds  a  space  many  feet  long 
and  wide,  parted  into  three  divisions,  and  is  supposed  to  have 
surrounded  the  king's  palace.  The  gates  leading  to  the  fort, 
and  another  to  Shah  Husain's  tomb  are  partly  left,  but  covered 
with  trees,  and  as  frill  of  bats  and  reptiles  as  the  ditches  are  of 
alligators. 


THE    GOLDEN    MOSQUE.      '  9! 

"The  whole  of  this  extensive  boundary,  including  the  fort 
and  city,  contains  innumerable  tanks  and  ponds  of  various  sizes. 
The  Saugur-dighee  tank  is  a  mUe  in  length,  by  half  a  mile  in 
breadth ;  three  or  four  others,  with  this,  are  the  best  and  largest 
cisterns  of  water  in  the  place. 

"  At  one  of  the  tanks  the  Musselmiins  make  offerings  to  the 
alligators,  which  has  made  them  so  tame,  they  come  to  the 
shore  and  take  away  what  is  offered. 

"  The  following  observations  on  the  ruins  which  still  remain 
sufficiently  entire,  commence  with  the  great 

"  GOLDEN    MOSQUE. 

"  This  noble  building  appears  to  stand  nearly  in  the  centre 
of  this  ancient  capital.  It  is  built  of  brick,  but  is  ornamented 
on  all  sides  with  a  kind  of  black  porphyry  stone.  This  mosque 
appears  to  have  been  surrounded  with  a  wall,  which,  on  the  east 
side  of  the  building,  formed  a  court  about  three  hundred  feet  in 
length  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  in  breadth.  The  mosque  itself 
formed  a  building  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  length  from 
north  to  south,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  in  breadth.  These 
dimensions  are  easily  ascertained,  as  the  north  and  south  doors 
of  the  mosque,  which  mark  its  length,  remain  entire,  and  the 
breadth  is  easily  computed  from  the  one  range  and  the  ruins  of 
the  rest  which  yet  remain.  Its  height  within  is  about  sixty  feet, 
but  it  is  probable  that  the  spires  of  its  lofty  domes  rose  to  the 
height  of  one  hundred  feet  from  the  ground.  Its  internal  struc- 
ture presents  a  singular  appearance.  Its  breadth  is  divided  into 
six  ranges  resembling  the  aisles  of  a  church.  These  aisles  are 
in  breadth  twelve  feet ;  and  as  they  extend  the  whole  length  of 
the  building  from  north  to  south,  they  are  somewhat  better  than 
a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length. 

"The  six  walls  which  once  divided  them  and  supported  the 
roof  were  eight  feet  in  thickness,  built  of  brick,  and  covered 
with  black  porphyry  to  a  considerable  height.  These  ranges  of 
aisles  are  not  formed  of  solid  masonry ;  each  of  them  is  inter- 
sected by  eleven  openings  from  east  to  west,  of  somewhat  more 
than  six  feet  in  breadth.     This,   in  reality,    divided   the  wall 


92  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

which  supports  the  roof  of  each  range  into  twelve  massy 
columns  of  eight  feet  square,  so  that  the  whole  building  con- 
tained seventy-two  of  these  columns,  eight  feet  both  in  length 
and  breadth,  of  which  the  six  outer  ones  on  the  two  sides  north 
and  south  adhering  to  the  outside  wall,  left  sixty  within  to  sup- 
port the  roof.  These  rows  of  columns  closed  over  each  aisle, 
and  thus  formed  six  semicircular  roofs,  covering  and  extending 
the  whole  length  of  each  aisle.  It  was,  however,  only  that  part 
furnished  by  each  column  which  formed  the  arches  of  these  six 
semi  circular  roofs ;  the  eleven  spaces  which  intersect  each 
range,  were  formed  above  into  domes  about  eleven  feet  in  dia- 
meter within,  and  terminating  in  a  point  without.  Of  these 
six  ranges  or  aisles,  only  one,  that  on  the  east  side,  is  now  entire, 
although  traces  of  the  other  five  are  still  visible.  Of  the  domes 
in  this  range,  the  roofs  of  five  are  entire ;  those  of  two  more  are 
merely  open  at  the  top ;  in  three  more  the  roof  has  entirely 
fallen  in  ;  and  the  roofs  on  the  rest  having  half  fallen,  seem  to 
threaten  the  spectator  with  instant  destruction,  should  any  part 
of  the  mouldering  ruin  fall  whilst  he  is  walking  underneath. 

"  The  outward  walls  are  nine  feet  in  thickness.  They  are 
built  of  small  bricks,  extremely  hard,  and  with  excellent  cement. 
The  whole  building  seems  to  have  suffered  far  less  from  depre- 
dation than  from  the  numerous  shrubs  and  trees  which  grow 
upon  it,  and  which,  insinuating  their  roots  into  the  breaches 
of  the  walls,  threaten  the  whole  with  unavoidable  and  speedy 
dissolution. 

"  Proceeding  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  above-mentioned 
mosque,  there  is  a  large 

"  OBELISK, 

"  which  stands  alone,  completely  separate  from  any  other 
building.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  for  an  obser- 
vatory, or  for  the  sake  of  calling  the  inhabitants  to  the  regular 
performance  of  their  daily  devotions.  It  contains  four  stories,  with 
a  staircase  within.  The  first  storv,  about  twelve  feet  from  the 
ground,  must  be  entered  by  a  ladder.  The  wall  is  marked  by 
many  small  windows  placed  over  each  other  in  a  perpendicular 


THE    OBELISK.  93 

line.  The  top  is  now  completely  open,  but  appears  to  have 
been  formerly  surmounted  by  a  dome.  On  the  wall  within  is 
discerned  the  vestiges  of  numerous  former  visitors,  and  their 
initials  cut  in  the  stones  with  the  date  annexed.  Many  of  these 
names  were  identified  :  directing  attention  to  the  most  ancient,  to 
discover,  if  possible,  how  long  this  has  been  the  resort  of  European 
visitors,  we  traced  '  W.  Harwood,  April  17th,  1771  ;'  '  G.  Grey, 
1772  ;'  '  I.  Henchman  ;'  '  G.  W.  ;'  '  H.  C. ;'  and  many  others  : 
inspecting  more  narrowly  the  initials  '  M.  V.,  1683,'  are  deci- 
phered. This  was  the  remotest  date  ascertained  :  this  reaches 
into  the  middle  of  the  famous  Aurunzebe's  reign,  and  it  may 
easily  be  supposed  that  the  place  had  fallen  into  decay  at  least  a 
hundred  and  eighty  years,  if  not  more.  Who  this  European  tra- 
veller could  have  been  is  a  matter  of  conjecture  ;  but  it  is  agi'eed 
that  he  was  some  gentleman  from  Holland  or  Portugal.  This 
date,  if  Gaur  had  fallen  into  decay  previous  to  his  visit,  might 
ascertain  the  time  of  its  having  been  abandoned. 

"  If  the  Emperor  of  Delhi,  Akbar,  who  was  contemporary 
with  our  Elizabeth,  repaired  and  beautified  it,  the  period  between 
this  visit  and  the  meridian  glory  of  Gaur  could  not  have  been 
more  than  ninety  years. 

*'  The  height  of  the  upper  story  from  the  ground  is  seventy- 
one  feet.  When  to  this  is  added  the  height  of  the  cupola,  &c., 
it  seems  probable  that  one  hundred  feet  was  the  original  height 
of  the  building.  The  diameter  of  the  area  in  the  upper  story  is 
precisely  ten  feet :  as  the  extreme  diameter  at  the  bottom  is  only 
twenty-one  feet,  if  the  thickness  of  the  two  walls  is  reckoned 
at  about  three  and  a  half,  the  extreme  diameter  of  the  upper 
story  will  be  seventeen  feet,  so  that  in  a  height  of  seventy 
feet,  its  diameter  has  lessened  little  more  than  three  feet,  a  cir- 
cumstance which  reflects  the  highest  credit  both  on  the  archi- 
tect and  the  materials  of  the  building,  as  it  has  resisted  the 
strongest  hurricanes  for  so  many  hundred  years.  The  steps  of 
the  staircase,  which  remain  entire,  are  about  fifty,  but  in  many 
instances  the  intermediate  ones  are  worn  away.  The  windows 
are  formed  of  black  porphyry,  which  appears  to  have  been 
intended  for  support  as  well  as  ornament,  as  the  stones  about 


94  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

two  feet  in  length  and  one  in  breadth,  and  nearly  a  foot  in 
thickness,  support  each  other  by  means  of  tenons  formed  in  the 
stone  itself;  and  they,  in  several  instances,  stand  firm,  although 
the  brickwork  has  fallen  from  them,  whilst  they  are  really 
firm ;  however,  they  assume  so  threatening  an  aspect  from  their 
appearing  loose,  that  the  visitor  is  almost  afraid  of  being  crushed 
beneath  them. 

"To  the  southward,  about  half  a  mile  beyond  the  obelisk, 
is  the 

"  NUTTEE    MUSJEED, 

"  by  some  Europeans  termed  the  China  mosque,  from  the  bricks 
of  which  it  is  built  being  ornamented  with  various  colours.  This 
building,  however,  has  nothing  of  the  mosque  beyond  some 
little  resemblance  in  its  external  appearance,  nor  is  there  any 
thing  within  it  corresponding  with  the  internal  appearance  of  the 
great  Golden  Mosque  ;  it  appears  evidently  intended  for  purposes 
of  amusement.  It  is  the  most  entire  of  any  structure  now 
remaining  at  Gaur.  Its  extreme  length  from  east  to  west  is 
about  seventy-two  feet,  its  breadth  about  fifty-four  feet,  and  its 
height  about  seventy  feet.  The  outer  walls,  nine  feet  in  thick- 
ness, are  formed  of  bricks,  extremely  small,  not  exceeding  four 
inches  in  length,  three  in  breadth,  and  one  inch  and  a  half  in 
thickness ;  but  these  bricks  are  so  well  made,  and  the  cement  is 
so  firm,  that  the  building  has  almost  the  solidity  of  stone.  The 
surface  of  these  bricks  is  painted  and  glazed,  yellow,  white, 
green,  and  blue  in  alternate  succession ;  and  the  whole  appears 
to  have  been  finished  with  a  neatness  approaching  to  finery. 
The  east,  the  north,  and  the  south  sides  have  three  doors, 
forming  nine  in  the  whole ;  on  the  west  side  it  is  closed.  The 
arch  of  the  middle  door  on  each  side  is  about  eleven  feet  in 
height,  the  other  two  about  nine  feet  high.  The  breadth  is 
somewhat  about  six  feet.  On  entering  the  east  door,  a  par- 
tition wall  presents  itself,  forming  a  space  twelve  feet  in  extent, 
and  the  whole  breadth  of  the  building.  This  marks  the  east  as 
having  been  the  front  entrance,  as  this  formed  a  kind  of  porch 
to  the  vestibule,  in  which  probably  servants  remained. 


THE   SOUTH    GATE.  95 

"The  space  within  this  forms  a  beautiful  room,  about  thirty-six 
feet  square,  the  four  walls  closing  above,  and  forming  a  majestic 
dome.  The  height  of  this  spacious  room  we  had  no  means  of 
ascertaining  exactly,  but,  from  its  appearance,  it  may  be  from 
forty  to  fifty  feet.  So  spacious  and  lofty  a  room,  without  a 
pillar,  beam,  or  rafter,  is  a  real  curiosity  ;  and  when  the  antiquity 
of  the  building,  the  smallness  of  the  bricks  which  compose  it, 
and  its  present  high  state  of  preservation  are  considered,  it  seems 
evident  that  the  art  of  building,  as  far  as  durability  is  con- 
sidered, was  far  better  understood  in  Bengal  formerly  than  is 
indicated  now  by  any  modern  edifice  in  the  metropolis  of  India. 
Are  European  science  and  skill  completely  distanced  by  the 
former  knowledge  of  a  nation  deemed  only  half-civilized  ? 

"  THE    SOUTH    GATE 

formed  the  southern  boundary  of  the  city ;  its  majestic  arch  still 
remains,  it  is  thirty-five  feet  wide ;  on  each  side  is  a  piece  of 
masonry  sixty  feet  square,  and  in  height  nearly  equal  to  the 
outside  of  the  arch  surmounting  the  gateway,  which  is  some- 
what better  than  sixty  feet.  The  masonry  is  united  both  on 
the  east  and  west  side  by  a  rampart  of  earth,  which  is  also 
sixty  feet  high,  and  is  covered  with  trees  of  various  kinds. 
This  rampart,  however,  would  have  formed  but  a  feeble  defence 
against  an  army  of  Europeans,  whatever  it  might  have  been 
esteemed  against  an  Indian  army. 

"  Many  mosques,  and  the  remains  of  old  buildings,  as  well  as  a 
great  number  of  fine  stone  pillars  which  once  supported  splendid 
edifices,  are  to  be  seen  entangled  by  jungle  and  high  grass,  com- 
pletely covered  up  in  some  places,  and  in  other  places  prostrate, 
the  foundations  having  been  excavated  for  bricks  and  stones. 
The  towns  of  Malda,  Rajmahal,  and  Moorshadabad  have  been 
supphed  with  building  materials  from  Gaur,  which  to  this  day 
are  continually  carried  to  the  populous  adjacent  towns  and 
villages,  to  build  native  dwellings. 

"  In  passing  through  so  large  an  extent  of  that  which  was  once 
a  scene  of  human  grandeur,  nothing  presents  itself  but  these 
few  remains;    trees  and   grass  now  fill  up  the  space,    giving 


96  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

shelter  to  a  variety  of  wild  creatures  ;  buffaloes,  deer,  wild  hogs, 
monkeys,  peacocks,  and  the  common  fowl,  now  become  wild  ; 
the  roar  of  the  tiger,  the  cry  of  the  peacock,  the  howls  of  the 
jackals,  with  the  company  of  bats  and  troublesome  insects, 
soon  become  familiar  to  those  inhabiting  the  neighbourhood." 

Extracts  from  an  old  work  on  India. 

'India  was  first  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  in  1497,  at 
which  time,  and  even  at  the  commencement  of  the  reign  of  the 
Emperor  Akbar,  in  1556,  Gaur  was  a  flourishing  city.' 

From  the  History  of  Portuguese  Asia. 

'  Gaur,  the  principal  city  in  Bengal,  is  seated  on  the  banks  of 
the  Ganges,  three  leagues  in  length,  containing  1 ,200,000  fami- 
lies, and  well  fortified.  Along  the  streets,  which  are  wide  and 
straight,  rows  of  trees  shade  the  people,  who  are  so  very 
numerous,  that  sometimes  many  are  trodden  to  death.' 

"  To  the  contemplative  mind,  what  a  striking  example  must  a 
review  of  Gaur  present  of  the  uncertain  state  of  sublunary 
things!" 

•'  The  Ruins  of  Gaur,"  with  eighteen  coloured  plates,  was 
published  in  1817,  in  one  volume  quarto,  from  the  manuscript 
and  sketches  of  the  late  H.  Creighton,  Esq. ;  it  is  a  sccu*ce  and 
interesting  work. 


CHAPTER   XLVI. 


SKETCHES  IN  BENGAL— THE  SUNDERBANDS. 

Toll  at  Jungipur — Bengalee  Women — Palace  of  the  Nawab  of  Moorshadabad 
— Mor-pankhi — Snake  Boats — Casim  Bazar — Berhampur — Cintra  Oranges 
— Cutwa  Cloth — Cuba — The  Timber  Raft — Chandar-nagar — Shola  Floats — 
The  Hoogly — Chinsurah — Barrukpur — Serampur — Corn  Mills — The  Ship- 
ping— Chandpaul  Ghat — River  Fakirs — M.  le  General  Allard — Assam  Leaf 
Insect — The  Races — Kali  Ma'i — Dwarkanath  Tagore — The  Foot  of  a 
Chinese  Lady — Quitted  Calcutta — The  Steamer  and  Flat — The  Sunderbands — 
Mud  Islands — Tigers — The  Woodcutters — Kaloo-rayii — Settlements — Culna 
— Commercolly — Rajmahal — Monghir — Coolness  of  a  Native — Pleasures  of 
Welcome — The  Vaccine  Department — The  Gaja  Raja  performs  Pooja  as  a 
Fakir  —  The  Eclipse — The  Plague  —  The  Lottery — Conversations  in  the 
Zenana — The  Autograph — Delicacy  of  Native  Ladies — Death  of  the  King 
of  Oude — The  Padshah  Begam — Moonajah — The  King's  Uncle  raised  to  the 
Throne. 

1836,  Dec.  9th. — Arrived  at  Jungipur,  where  a  toll  was  levied 
of  six  rupees  on  my  bajra,  usually  called  budjerow,and  two  rupees 
on  the  cook  boat, — a  tax  for  keeping  open  a  deep  channel  in  the 
river.  During  the  hour  we  anchored  there,  and  the  servants  were 
on  shore  for  provisions,  I  was  much  amused  watching  the  women 
bathing ;  they  wade  into  the  stream,  wash  their  dresses,  and  put 
them  on  again  all  wet,  as  they  stand  in  the  water ;  wash  their 
hair  and  their  bodies,  retaining  all  the  time  some  part  of  their 
drapery,  which  assumes  the  most  classical  appearance.  They  wear 
their  hair  fastened  behind  in  the  Grecian  fashion,  large  silver 
nose-rings,  a  great  number  of  white  ivory  churees  (bracelets)  on 
their  arms,  with  a  pair  of  very  large  silver  bangles  on  the  wrists, 

VOL.   11.  H 


98  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

and  massive  ornaments  of  silver  on  their  ankles ;  their  drapery 
white,  with,  perhaps,  an  edge  of  some  gay  colour ;  bright  brass 
vessels  for  water  (giigri) ,  or  of  porous  red  earthenware  (gharii) , 
in  which  they  carry  back  the  river  water  to  their  dweUings. 
Having  bathed,  they  repeat  their  prayers,  with  their  hands  palm 
to  palm  raised  to  their  faces,  and  turning  in  pooja  to  particular 
points.  After  sipping  the  water  a  certain  number  of  times, 
taking  it  up  in  their  hands,  they  trip  away  in  their  wet  drapery, 
which  dries  as  they  walk.  The  skin  of  the  women  in  Bengal  is 
of  a  better  tinge  than  that  of  the  up-country  women ;  they  are 
small,  well-formed,  and  particularly  graceful  in  their  movements. 

lOth. — The  BhaugruttI,  as  you  approach  Moorshadabad,  is 
remarkably  picturesque,  and  presents  a  thousand  views  that 
would  make  beautiful  sketches.  At  this  moment  we  are  passing 
the  Nawab's  residence,  or  rather  the  palace  that  is  building  for 
him ;  it  is  situated  on  the  side  of  the  river,  which  presents 
a  beautiful  expanse  of  water,  covered  with  vessels  of  all  sorts 
and  sizes,  of  the  most  oriental  and  picturesque  form.  A  fine 
breeze  is  blowing,  and  the  vessels  on  every  side,  and  all  around 
me,  are  in  every  sort  of  picturesque  and  beautiful  position. 
The  palace,  which  is  almost  quite  completed,  is  a  noble  building,' 
an  enormous  and  grand  mass  of  architecture,  reared  under  the 
superintendence  of  Colonel  Macleod. 

The  mor-pankhi,  a  kind  of  pleasure  boat,  with  the  long  neck 
and  head  of  a  peacock,  most  richly  gilt  and  painted,  and  the 
snake  boats,  used  on  days  of  festival,  are  fairy-like,  picturesque, 
fanciful,  and  very  singular.  Pinnaces  for  hire  are  here  in  numbers. 
The  merchant-boats  built  at  this  place  are  of  peculiar  and  beau- 
tiful form,  as  if  the  builder  had  studied  both  effect  and  swiftness ; 
the  small  boats,  over  which  rafts  are  fastened  to  float  down 
wood ;  the  fishermen's  little  vessels,  that  appear  almost  too 
small  and  fragile  to  support  the  men,  and  which  fly  along  im- 
pelled only  by  one  oar ;  the  well-wooded  banks,  the  mosques, 
and  the  mut'hs  (Hindoo  temples),  mixed  with  curiously  built 
native  houses ; — all  unite  in  forming  a  scene  of  peculiar  beauty. 
Kasim  bazar  adjoins  Moorshadabad  ;  both  are  famous  for  silk  of 
every  sort.     In  the  evening  we  anchored  at  Berhampur  ;  the 


TIMBER    RAFTS.  99 

budgerow  was  instantly  crowded  with  people,  bringing  carved 
ivory  toys,  chess-men,  elephants,  &c.,  for  sale,  and  silk  mer- 
chants, with  handkerchiefs  and  Berhampiir  silk  in  abundance  ; 
all  asking  more  than  double  the  price  they  intended  to  take. 
Four  more  dandees  having  deserted,  I  have  been  obliged  to  apply 
to  the  Judge  Sahib  to  procure  other  men. 

The  most  delicious  oranges  have  been  procured  here,  the 
rinds  fine  and  thin,  the  flavour  excellent ;  the  natives  call  them 
"cintra;"  most  likely  they  were  introduced  by  the  Portuguese. 
The  station  extends  along  the  side  of  the  river,  which  is  well 
banked,  and  offers  a  cool  and  refreshing  evening  walk  to  the 
residents.  I  was  tempted  to  buy  some  of  the  carved  ivory 
chess-men,  an  elephant,  &c.,  all  very  cheap,  and  well  carved  in 
good  ivory  ;  nor  could  I  resist  some  silk  nets  for  the  horses. 

I2th. — At  Cutwa  cotton  cloth  was  offered  for  sale ;  I  bought 
some,  but  the  purchase  gave  more  trouble  than  the  cloth 
was  worth.  The  men  asked  eighteen  sicca-rupees  for  each 
piece  of  eighteen  yards,  and  took  eleven  Furrukhabad  rupees  ; 
the  mosquito  curtains,  for  which  they  asked  five  rupees  each, 
they  sold  for  three. 

\4th. — Arrived  at  Culna,  to  which  place  the  tide  comes  up. 
Here  we  anchored,  to  buy  charcoal  and  clarified  butter  for  my  own 
consumption,  and  rice  for  the  dandees.  We  have  passed  a  great 
many  timber  rafts  that  are  floating  down  to  Calcutta,  with 
wood,  for  sale ;  the  timber  is  cut  in  the  hills.  The  stems  of 
two  large  trees  are  lashed  across  a  boat,  and,  passing  over  the 
sides  to  a  considerable  distance,  support  a  number  of  trees, 
which  float  on  the  water,  fastened  along  both  sides  of  the  boat ; 
on  the  boat  itself  is  a  thatched  shed.  On  each  raft  are  two 
hill-men,  their  black  bodies  and  heads  completely  shaved  ;  with 
no  clothing  but  a  bit  of  cloth  passed  between  the  limbs,  and 
supported  by  a  string  tied  round  the  waist.  They  have  a  wild 
look  as  they  row  with  their  bamboo  oars  the  unwieldy  rafts,' 
three  or  four  of  which  are  fastened  together ; — a  picture  in  itself 
is  the  wild  and  strange-looking  timber  raft.  A  small  canoe, 
hollowed  out  of  a  single  tree,  is  always  the  accompaniment  to 
a  raft ;  I  saw  four  men  in  a  canoe  of  this  sort  crossing  the  river  ; 

h2 


100  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

one  man  steered  by  using  an  oar,  while  the  other  three,  by 
leaning  forward,  made  use  of  their  hands  alone  as  paddles  ;  you 
may  therefore  imagine  how  narrow  the  boat  was,  when  a  man 
could  use  a  hand  at  each  side  at  the  same  time  in  the  water,  to 
paddle  her  forward.  The  men  were  laughing  and  shouting  most 
happily.  They  cut  the  timber  in  the  hills,  and  come  down 
with  it  for  scarcely  any  payment,  merely  just  enough  to  feed 
them. 

When  the  boats  have  delivered  their  wood  in  Calcutta,  they 
take  up  one  boat,  and  put  it  into  another,  and  in  this  way  the 
double  boats  return  to  the  hills  ;  for  this  reason  two  men  alone 
come  with  one  boat  down  the  stream,  but  in  returning,  more 
men  are  required  to  track  against  it ;  the  two  boats  being  put 
one  on  the  other,  the  four  men  suffice  to  take  them  back 
again. 

1 5th. — This  evening  we  anchored  at  Chandar-nagar,  the  town 
of  Chandar,  the  moon,  commonly  called  Chander-nagore,  and 
took  a  walk  to  see  a  Bengalee  temple,  which  looked  well 
from  the  river.  The  building  consisted  of  a  temple  in  the 
centre,  containing  an  image  of  the  goddess  Kali,  and  five 
smaller  temples  on  each  side,  each  containing  an  image  of 
Mahadeo  ;  a  little  further  on  were  two  images,  gaily  dressed  in 
tarnished  silk  and  tinsel ;  the  one  a  female  figure,  Unapurna, 
the  other  Mahadeo,  as  a  Bairagi  or  religious  mendicant.  The 
village  was  pretty.  I  stopped  at  a  fisherman's,  to  look  at  the 
curiously-shaped  floats  he  used  for  his  very  large  and  heavy 
fishing  nets ;  each  float  was  formed  of  eight  pieces  of  shola, 
tied  together  by  the  ends,  the  four  smaller  within  the  four 
larger.  When  this  light  and  spongy  pith  is  wetted,  it  can  be 
cut  into  thin  layers,  which,  pasted  together,  are  formed  into 
hats  ;  Chinese  paper  appears  to  be  made  of  the  same  material. 
The  banks  of  the  river,  the  whole  distance  from  Hoogly  to 
Chinsurah  and  Chandar-nagar,  presents  a  view  of  fine  houses, 
situated  in  good  gardens,  and  interspersed  with  the  dwellings  of 
the  natives.  There  is  a  church  at  Chandar-nagar,  where  there  are 
also  cantonments ;  and  the  grand  dep6t  for  the  wood  from  the 
up-country  rafts  appears  to  be  at  this  place;  the  river-side  was 


BARRACKPUR.  101 

completely  covered  with  timber  for  some  distance.  The  natives 
were  amusing  themselves  as  we  passed,  sending  up  small  fire 
balloons,  and  brilliantly  blue  sky  rockets. 

The  view  is  beautiful  at  Barrackpur;  the  fine  trees  of  the 
park  stretching  along  the  side  of  the  river ;  the  bright  green 
turf  that  slopes  gently  down  to  the  water ;  the  number  of 
handsome  houses,  with  their  lawns  and  gardens  ;  the  Govern- 
ment-house and  the  buildings  around  it,  stuccoed  to  resemble 
white  stone ;  the  handsome  verandahs  which  surround  the 
houses,  supported  by  pillars ;  and  the  great  number  of  boats 
gliding  about,  render  it  peculiarly  pleasing. 

In  front,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  the  Danish 
settlement  of  Serampur ;  its  houses,  which  are  large  and  hand- 
some, are  two  or  three  stories  high.  We  are  floating  gently 
down  with  the  tide ;  I  can  scarcely  write,  the  scenery  attracts 
me  so  much, — the  Bengalee  mandaps  (places  of  worship)  close 
to  the  water,  the  fine  trees  of  every  description,  and  the  pretty 
stone  ghats.  We  have  just  passed  a  ruined  ghiit,  situated  in  the 
midst  of  fine  old  trees  ;  at  the  top  of  the  flight  of  steps  are  the 
ruins  of  two  Hindoo  temples  of  picturesque  form ;  an  old 
peepul  tree  overshadows  them ;  its  twisted  roots  are  exposed, 
the  earth  having  been  washed  away  during  the  rains.  A  number 
of  women  are  bathing,  others  carrying  water  away  in  gharas 
poised  on  their  heads :  the  men  take  it  away  in  water  vessels, 
which  are  hung  to  either  end  of  a  split  bamboo,  called  a 
bahangi,  which  is  carried  balanced  on  the  shoulder.  We  fly 
past  the  objects  with  the  ebbing  tide  ;  what  an  infinity  of  beauty 
there  is  in  all  the  native  boats  !  could  my  pencil  do  justice  to 
the  scenery,  how  valuable  would  be  m.y  sketch-book  ! 

The  Governor-General, Lord  Auckland,  lives  partly  in  Calcutta, 
and  partly  at  the  Government-house  at  Barrackpur.  At  Cassi- 
pur  is  the  house  of  the  agent  for  gunpowder,  its  white  pillars 
half-hidden  by  fine  trees.  At  Chitpore  is  a  high,  red,  Birming- 
ham-looking, long-chimnied  building,  with  another  in  the  same 
style  near  it ;  the  high  chimneys  of  the  latter  emitting  a  dark 
volume  of  smoke,  such  as  one  only  sees  in  this  country  pouring 
from  the  black  funnel  of  a  steamer :  corn  is   here  ground  in 


102  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

the  English  fashion,  and  oil  extracted  from  divers  seeds.  The 
establishment  cost  a  great  sum  of  money,  and  I  think  I  have 
heard  it  has  failed,  owing  to  each  native  family  in  India  grinding 
their  own  com,  in  the  old  original  fashion  of  one  flat  circular 
mill-stone  over  another,  called  a  chakkl. 

From  this  point  I  first  caught  a  view  of  the  shipping  off 
Calcutta :  for  ten  years  I  had  not  beheld  an  EngUsh  vessel : 
how  it  made  me  long  for  a  glimpse  of  all  the  dear  ones  in 
England  !  "The  desire  of  the  garden  never  leaves  the  heart  of 
the  nightingale'." 

Passing  through  the  different  vessels  that  crowd  the  Hoogly 
off  Calcutta,  gave  me  great  pleasure ;  the  fine  merchant-ships, 
the  gay,  well-trimmed  American  vessels,  the  grotesque  forms  of 
the  Arab  ships,  the  Chinese  vessels  with  an  eye  on  each  side 
the  bows  to  enable  the  vessel  to  see  her  way  across  the  deep 
waters,  the  native  vessels  in  all  their  fanciful  and  picturesque 
forms,  the  pleasure-boats  of  private  gentlemen,  the  beautiful 
private  residences  in  Chowringhee,  the  Government-house,  the 
crowds  of  people,  and  vehicles  of  all  descriptions,  both  European 
and  Asiatic, — form  a  scene  of  beauty  of  which  I  know  not  the 
equal. 

We  anchored  at  Chandpaul  ghat,  amidst  a  crowd  of  vessels. 
The  river-beggars  fly  about  in  the  very  smallest  little  boats  in 
the  world,  paddled  by  one  tiny  oar :  a  little  flag  is  stuck  up  in 
the  boat,  and  on  a  mat  at  the  bottom,  spread  to  receive  offerings, 
is  a  collection  of  copper  coins,  rice  and  cowries,  thrown  by  the 
pious  or  the  charitable  to  these  fakirs  ;  who,  if  fame  belie  them 
not,  are  rascals.  "  A  gooroo  at  home,  but  a  beggar  abroad  ^" 
I  forgive  them  the  sin  of  rascality,  for  their  picturesque  appear- 
ance ;  the  gifts  they  received  were  very  humble.  "  A  kuoree 
is  a  gold  mohur  to  a  pauper  \" 

There  not  being  room  that  night  for"  our  party  at  Spence's 

hotel,  I  was  forced  to  sleep  on  board  the  budjerow,  off  Chand- 

'  paul  ghat.     What  a  wretched   night  it  was  !    The   heat  was 

intolerable.      I  could  not  open  a  window  because  the  budjerows 

•  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  114.         '  Ibid.  No.  115.         '  Ibid.  No.  116. 


MONSIEUR  LE  g:6n£ral  allard.  103 

on  either  side  were  jammed  against  mine  :  the  heat,  the  noise, 
the  mooring  and  unmooring,  according  to  the  state  of  the  tide, 
rendered  it  miserable  work.  I  wished  to  anchor  lower  down, 
but  the  answer  was,  "  Budjerows  must  anchor  here  ;  it  is  the 
Lord  Sahib's  hukm  (order)." 

\7th. — I  took  possession  of  apartments  in  Spence's  hotel: 
they  were  good  and  well  furnished.  Since  I  quitted  Calcutta,  a 
great  improvement  has  taken  place :  a  road  has  been  opened 
from  the  Government-house  to  Garden  Reach,  by  the  side  of 
the  river  ;  the  drive  is  well  watered,  the  esplanade  crowded  with 
carriages,  and  the  view  of  the  shipping  beautiful. 

M.  le  General  Allard,  who  had  just  returned  from  France, 
and  was  in  Calcutta  en  route  to  rejoin  Runjeet  Singh,  called  on 
me ;  he  is  the  most  picturesque  person  imaginable ;  his  long 
forked  beard,  divided  in  the  centre,  hangs  down  on  either  side 
his  face ;  at  dinner-time  he  passes  one  end  of  his  beard  over 
one  ear,  and  the  other  end  over  the  other  ear.  The  General,  who 
was  a  most  agreeable  person,  regretted  he  had  not  seen  me  when 
he  passed  Allahabad,  but  illness  had  prevented  his  calling  and 
dehvering,  in  person,  the  bows  and  arrows  entrusted  to  his  charge. 

I  was  much  deUghted  with  the  General :  he  asked  me  to  visit 
Lahore,  an  invitation  I  told  him  I  would  accept  with  great 
pleasure,  should  I  ever  visit  the  Hills,  and  he  promised  to  send 
an  escort  for  me.  The  General  took  with  him  to  Europe  some 
fine  jewels,  emeralds,  and  other  valuable  stones ;  he  brought 
them  back  to  India,  as  they  were  of  less  value  in  Europe  than 
in  the  East. 

I  could  have  remained  contentedly  at  the  hotel  myself,  but 
my  up-country  servants  complained  there  was  no  comfort 
for  them ;  therefore  I  took  a  small  house  in  Chowringhee,  and 
removed  into  it  the  furniture  from  the  budjerow.  It  was  com- 
fortable also  to  have  my  horses,  which  had  arrived,  in  the 
stables. 

Went  to  a  ball  given  in  the  English  style  by  a  rich  Benga- 
lee Baboo,  Rustam-jee  Cowsajee.  The  Misses  Eden  were  there, 
which  the  Baboo  ought  to  have  thought  a  very  great  honour. 

1837,  Jan.  1st. — Mr.  H arrived  from  Assam,  suffering 


104  WANDERINGS   OK    A    PILGRIM. 

from  the  effects  of  one  of  the  terrific  fevers  of  that  country : 
he  brought  me  a  leaf  insect, — a  great  curiosity. 

5th. — Made  my  salam  at  the  Government-house,  as  in  duty 
bound. 

9th. — The  first  day  of  the  races:  drove  to  the  stand  at 
seven  a.m.,  through  a  deep,  white,  thick  fog,  so  usual  in  the 
early  morning  in  Calcutta,  which  did  my  sore  throat  and  cold 
no  good. 

llth. — The  second  day  of  the  races;  the  Auckland  Cup  was 
to  be  given  to  the  winner.  The  cup  was  of  silver,  the  design 
remarkable,  and  very  beautiful.  It  was  sketched  by  Miss  Eden, 
and  executed  in  good  style  by  Messrs.  Pittar  and  Co.,  jewellers, 
in  Calcutta.  The  winning  horse  came  in  well :  twenty  yards 
beyond  the  post,  as  the  jockey  attempted  to  pull  him  up,  the 
horse  dropped  and  died  instantly.  The  cup  was  awarded  to  the 
dead  horse.     It  was  a  piteous  sight. 

\5th. — Accompanied  Mr.  W and  a  party  over  his  racing 

stables :  the  sight  of  the  racers  all  ready  for  the  contest  in  the 
morning  was  pleasing.  We  then  visited  a  number  of  imported 
English  and  Cape  horses  that  were  for  sale. 

In  the  evening  I  drove  to  see  the  far-famed  Bengalee  idol, 
Kali  Ma'i,  to  which,  in  former  times,  human  sacrifices  were 
publicly  offered ;  and  to  which,  in  the  present  day,  and  in  spite 
of  the  vigilance  of  the  magistrate,  I  believe,  at  times,  a  human 
being  is  offered  up  ; — some  poor  wretch  who  has  no  one  likely 
to  make  inquiries  about  him.  The  temple  is  at  Kali  Ghat, 
about  two  miles  from  Calcutta.  The  idol  is  a  great  black  stone 
cut  into  the  figui'e  of  an  enormous  woman,  with  a  large  head 
and  staring  eyes ;  her  tongue  hangs  out  of  her  mouth,  a  great 
broad  tongue,  down  to  her  breast.  The  figure  is  disgusting.  I 
gave  the  attendant  priests  a  rupee  for  having  shown  me  their 
idol,  which  they  offered  with  all  reverence  to  Kali  Ma'i.  The 
instruments  with  which,  at  one  stroke,  the  priest  severs  the 
head  of  the  victim  from  the  trunk  are  remarkable. 

\6th. — A  cup  of  silver,  given  by  a  rich  Bengalee,  Dwarkanath 
Tagore,  was  run  for :  the  cup  was  elaborately  worked,  and  the 
workmanship  good ;  but  the  design  was  in  the  excess  of  bad 


THE    JELLINGHY    FLAT.  105 

taste,  and  such  as  only  a  Baboo  would  have  approved.  It  was 
won  by  Absentee,  one  of  the  horses  I  had  seen  in  the  stable  the 
day  before,  contrary  to  the  calculation  of  all  the  knowing  ones 
in  Calcutta. 

17 th. — The  inhabitants  of  Calcutta  gave  a  ball  to  the  Miss 
Edens.     I  was  too  ill  to  attend. 

30th. — Dined  with  an  old  friend  at  Alipur,  some  two  miles 
from  Calcutta.  The  coachman  being  unable  to  see  his  way 
across  the  maidan  (plain),  stopped.  The  sa'Tses,  who  were 
trying  to  find  out  where  they  were,  ran  directly  against  the  walls 
of  the  hospital ;  the  fog  was  so  dense  and  white,  you  could  not 
see  a  yard  before  you ;  it  made  my  cough  most  painful,  and  the 
carriage  was  two  hours  returning  two  miles. 

Feb.  4th. — I  spent  the  day  at  the  Asiatic  Society.  A  model 
of  the  foot  of  a  Chinese  lady  in  the  collection  is  a  curiosity,  and 
a  most  disgusting  deformity.  The  toes  are  crushed  up  under 
the  foot,  so  as  to  render  the  person  perfectly  lame :  this  is  a 
less  expensive  mode  of  keeping  a  woman  confined  to  the  house, 
than  having  guards  and  a  zenana — the  principle  is  the  same. 

Having  bid  adieu  to  my  friends  in  Calcutta,  I  prepared  to 
return  to  Allahabad,  and  took  a  passage  in  the  Jellinghy  flat. 
The  servants  went  up  the  river  in  a  large  baggage  boat,  with  the 
stores,  wine,  and  furniture.  I  did  not  insure  the  boat,  insurance 
being  very  high,  and  the  time  of  the  year  favourable.  The 
horses  marched  up  the  country. 

March  6th. — I  went  on  board  the  JeUinghy  flat,  estabhshed 
myself  and  my  ayha  in  a  good  cabin,  and  found  myself,  for  the 
first  time,  located  in  a  steamer.  She  quitted  Calcutta  in  the 
evening,  and  as  we  passed  Garden  Reach,  the  view  of  handsome 
houses  in  well-wooded  grounds,  which  extend  along  the  banks  of 
the  river,  was  beautiful.  The  water  being  too  shallow  at  this 
time  of  the  year  for  the  passage  of  the  steamer  up  the  BhaugruttI, 
or  the  Jellinghy,  she  was  obliged  to  go  round  by  the  sunderbands ' 
(sindhu-bandh).  The  steamer  herself  is  not  the  vessel  in  which 
the  passengers  live  ;  attached  to,  and  towed  by  her,  is  a  vessel  as 
large  as  the  steamer  herself,  called  a  flat,  built  expressly  to 
convey  passengers  and  Government  treasure.     It  is  divided  into 


106  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

cabins,  with  one  large  cabin  in  the  centre,  in  which  the  passen- 
gers dine  together. 

7th. — We  quitted  the  Hoogly  and  anchored  in  the  sunder- 
bands.  The  sunderbands  is  a  large  tract  of  low  muddy  land, 
covered  with  short  thick  jungle  and  dwarf  trees.  It  is  an  assem- 
blage of  islands,  the  tides  flowing  between  them.  A  more 
solitary  desolate  tract  I  never  beheld.  We  anchored  where 
three  streams  met,  flowing  in  from  between  these  low  mud 
islands.  When  the  tide  turned  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  the 
steamer  swung  round  on  the  flat  with  a  crash ;  several  times 
the  two  vessels  were  entangled  in  this  manner;  the  steamer 
drove  in  one  of  the  cabin  windows,  and  it  was  some  time  ere 
every  thing  was  right  again.  Exposed  to  the  power  of  the 
three  streams,  she  was  never  quiet,  never  at  rest :  the  children 
cried,  the  ducks  did  not  like  to  be  killed,  and  the  vessels  were 
wrestling  together  for  hours — an  unquiet  night. 

Sth. — The  mud  islands  are  under  water  at  high  tide.  At  this 
moment  we  are  passing  through  a  very  narrow  passage ;  on 
each  side  the  thick,  low,  impenetrable  jungle  comes  down  to 
the  water's  edge.  Not  a  tree  of  any  size  to  be  seen ;  not  a 
vessel,  not  an  animal.  During  the  whole  of  this  day  I  have 
only  seen  two  paddy  birds,  and  one  deer.  The  thick  jungle  is 
full  of  tigers  ;  so  much  so,  that  the  Hindoos  on  board  are  not 
allowed  to  go  on  shore  to  cook  their  food  on  that  account. 
Going  along  with  the  tide  in  our  favour,  the  swiftness  of  the 
steamer  is  terrific ;  the  velocity  with  which  we  pass  the  banks 
makes  me  giddy.  We  have  just  passed  a  spot  on  which  an  oar 
is  stuck  up  on  end.  The  captain  of  the  flat  pointed  it  out  to 
me  as  a  sign  that  a  native  had  been  carried  off"  at  that  spot  by  a 
tiger.  It  is  the  custom  to  leave  an  oar  to  point  out  the  spot, 
or  to  stick  up  a  bamboo  with  a  flag  attached  to  it — as  in 
Cathohc  countries  a  cross  is  erected  on  the  spot  where  a  murder 
has  been  committed. 

-•  "  Kaloo-rayu  is  a  form  of  Shivu  :  the  image  is  that  of  a  yellow 
man  sitting  on  a  tiger,  holding  in  his  right  hand  an  arrow,  and 
in  his  left  a  bow.  A  few  of  the  lower  orders  set  up  clay  images 
of  this  god,  in  straw  hoxises,  and  worship  them  at  pleasure. 


THE    SUNDERBANDS.  107 

The  wood-cutters  in  the  eastern,  western,  and  southern  forests 
of  Bengal,  in  order  to  obtain  protection  from  wild  beasts,  adopt 
a  peculiar  mode  of  worshipping  this  idol.  The  head  boatman 
raises  elevations  of  earth,  three  or  four  inches  high,  and  about 
three  feet  square,  upon  which  he  places  balls  of  clay,  painted 
red ;  and,  amongst  other  ceremonies,  offers  rice,  flowers,  fruits, 
and  the  water  of  the  Ganges  carried  from  the  river  Hoogly, 
keeping  a  fast :  the  god  then  directs  him  in  a  dream  where  to 
cut  wood  free  from  danger.  There  is  no  authority  for  this 
worship  in  the  shastriis.  Diikshina-rayu  is  another  god,  wor- 
shipped in  the  same  manner,  and  by  the  same  class  of  persons '." 
9^^. — Last  night  two  boats  full  of  woodcutters  passed  us ; 
they  said  several  of  their  men  had  been  carried  off  by  tigers. 
We  have  only  overtaken  four  boats  all  this  time  in  the  sunder- 
bands.  During  the  hot  weather  people  dare  not  come  through 
this  place  ;  fevers  are  caught  from  the  malaria :  at  the  present 
time  of  the  year  it  is  safe  enough.  There  are  no  inhabitants  in 
these  parts,  the  people  finding  it  impossible  to  live  here.  We 
have  a  very  pleasant  party  on  board,  most  of  whom  are  going 
to  Allahabad.  The  vessel  is  a  good  one ;  the  accommodation 
good,  the  food  also.  It  is  very  expensive,  but  as  it  saves  one 
a  dak  trip  this  hot  weather,  or  a  two  or  three  months'  voyage 
in  a  country  vessel,  it  is  more  agreeable.  The  heat  in  these  vile 
sunderbands  is  very  great ;  during  the  day,  quite  oppressive;  when 
we  enter  the  Ganges  we  shall  find  it  cooler.  As  we  were 
emerging  from  the  sunderbands  and  nearing  the  river,  the  banks 
presented  a  scene  which  must  resemble  the  back  settlements  in 
America.  Before  this  time  we  had  scarcely  met  with  a  good- 
sized  tree.  Here  the  trees  partook  of  the  nature  of  forest : 
some  people  were  burning  the  forest,  and  had  made  a  settlement. 
Barley  was  growing  in  small  portions,  and  there  were  several 
dwarf  cows.  The  scene  was  peculiar  ;  a  little  bank  of  mud  was 
raised  to  prevent  the  overflow  of  the  tide ;  the  stumps  of  the 
burned  and  blackened  trees  remained  standing,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  where  they  had  been  rooted  out,  and  a  paddy  field 

'  Ward,  on  the  Religion  of  the  Hindoos. 


108  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

formed.  Places  for  look  out  erected  on  high  poles  were  numer- 
ous, and  thatched  over:  there  a  man  could  sit  and  watch  all 
night,  lest  a  tiger  should  make  his  appearance.  There  were  a 
few  miserable  huts  for  the  men,  no  women  were  to  be  seen ; 
nothing  could  be  more  primitive  and  more  wretched  than  these 
young  settlements  in  the  sunderbands.  On  the  morning  of  the 
10th  we  quitted  this  vile  place,  and  anchored  at  Culna  to  take 
in  a  fresh  supply  of  coals. 

\2th. — We  arrived  at  CommercoUy ;  anchored  close  to  the 
bank,  to  take  in  more  coal :  it  was  very  oppressive,  but  the 
evening  was  beautiful ;  the  sky  studded  with  stars,  and  the  new 
moon  just  visible.  I  sat  on  deck  enjoying  the  coolness :  we 
anchored  very  late,  not  until  it  was  impossible  to  see  the  proper 
course  to  steer  on  the  river.    We  had  at  last  gained  the  Ganges. 

I3th. — Passed  a  great  number  of  boats  that  were  out  fishing, 
and  ran  over  one  of  them  containing  four  men,  three  were 
picked  up  immediately,  the  fourth  passed  under  the  steamer, 
from  her  bows  to  her  stern ;  he  was  taken  up  exhausted,  but 
uninjured.  Some  of  the  passengers  are  playing  at  chess,  others 
reading  novels ;  some  asleep,  some  pacing  the  deck  under  the 
awning,  edl  striving  to  find  something  wherewith  to  amuse 
themselves. 

I4th. — We  arrived  off  Gaur;  I  looked  with  pleasure  on  its 
woods  in  the  distance,  recalled  to  mind  the  pleasant  days  I  had 
passed  there,  and  thought  of  the  well-oiled  dakait  who  had 
called  on  me  as  his  grandmother  to  save  him.  It  was  just  at 
this  place  that  coming  down  the  river  we  turned  to  the  right, 
and  went  a  short  cut  down  the  BhaugruttI,  instead  of  pursuing 
the  course  of  the  Ganges.  A  prize  this  day  fell  to  my  share  in 
a  lottery,  in  Calcutta,  of  a  silver  vase  enamelled  in  gold ;  but 
more  of  this  lottery  hereafter. 

1 6th. — I  got  up  early  and  went  on  shore  at  Rajmahal,  roamed 
in  the  bamboo  jungle  and  amongst  the  ruins,  until  the  ringing 
of  the  bell  on  board  the  steamer  announced  the  coals  were  on 
board,  and  the  vessel  ready  to  start.  Of  all  the  trees  in  India, 
perhaps  the  bans,  bamboo,  is  the  most  useful,  as  well  as  the 
most  graceful.     What  can  be  more  picturesque,  more  beautiful 


COOLNESS    OF    A    NATIVE.  109 

than  a  clump  of  bamboos?  From  Calcutta  to  Allahabad,  the 
common  route  by  the  river  is  eight  hundred  miles  ;  round  by  the 
sunderbands  the  distance  is  nearly  eleven  hundred. 

\8th. — Passed  the  Janghiera  rock,  and  anchored  at  Monghir: 
bought  lathis,  that  is,  solid  bamboos,  walking-sticks,  sixty  for 
the  rupee.  The  male  bamboo  is  solid,  the  female  hollow.  I 
bought  them  for  the  use  of  the  beaters  when  M.  mon  mari  goes 
out  shooting. 

20th. — The  strong  westerly  wind  sent  the  fine  sand  from  the 
banks  in  clouds  all  over  the  vessel,  filUng  the  eyes  and  ears  most 
unpleasantly. 

25th. — Anchored  at  Benares :  the  steamer  started  again  at 
8  A.M. ;  the  view  of  the  ghats  as  we  passed  was  beautiful ;  the 
number  of  persons  bathing,  their  diversified  and  brilliantly 
coloured  dresses,  rendered  the  scene  one  of  great  interest  and 
beauty. 

26th. — Passed  Chunar ; — the  place  had  lost  much  of  the 
beauty  it  displayed  during  the  rains.  A  khidmatgiir  fell  over- 
board, passed  under  the  vessel  from  head  to  stern,  and  was' 
picked  up  by  the  boat  just  as  he  was  on  the  point  of  sinking. 
The  skin  was  torn  off  the  old  man's  scalp  ;  he  received  no 
further  injury.  The  next  day,  to  my  astonishment,  he  was  in 
attendance  on  his  master  at  dinner-time,  and  seemed  to  think 
nothing  of  having  been  scalped  by  the  steamer ! 

27th. — Received  fruit  and  vegetables  from  an  old  friend  at 
Mirzapore.  I  am  weary  of  the  voyage,  the  heat  for  the  last  few 
days  has  been  so  oppressive :  very  gladly  shall  I  return  to  the 
quiet  and  coolness  of  my  own  home.  Aground  several  times 
on  sandbanks. 

29th. — Started  early,  and  arrived  within  sight  of  the  Fort ; 
were  again  fixed  on  a  sandbank ;  the  river  is  very  shallow  at 
this  time  of  the  year.  With  the  greatest  difficulty  we  reached 
the  ghat  on  the  Jumna,  near  the  Masjid,  and  were  glad  to  find 
ourselves  at  the  end  of  the  voyage.  My  husband  came  down 
to  receive  and  welcome  me,  and  drive  me  home.  The  great 
dog  Nero  nearly  tore  me  to  pieces  in  his  delight.  Her  Highness 
the  Baiza    Ba'i  sent  her  people  down  to  the  ghat  to  make 


no  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

salam  on  my  landing,  to  welcome  and  congratulate  me  on  my 
return,  and  to  say  she  wished  to  see  me. 

It  was  pleasant  to  be  thus  warmly  received,  and  to  find  my- 
self once  more  in  my  cool  and  comfortable  home  on  the  banks 
of  the  Jurana-jee  after  all  the  heat  and  fatigue  of  the  voyage. 

The  Brija  Bii'i,  one  of  the  Mahratta  ladies,  was  delighted  to 
see  me  once  again,  and  performed  a  certain  sort  of  blessing 
called  balaiya  lena,  or  taking  all  another's  evils  on  one's  self; 
which  ceremony  she  performed  by  drawing  her  hands  over  my 
head,  and  cracking  her  fingers  on  her  own  temples,  in  token  of 
taking  all  my  misfortunes  upon  herself.  This  mode  of  blessing 
I  have  many  times  seen  performed  both  by  men  and  women, 
our  dependents  and  servants,  both  towards  my  husband  and 
myself,  on  our  bestowing  any  particular  benefit  upon  them ;  it 
expressed  the  depth  of  their  gratitude. 

April  6th. — The  small-pox  is  making  great  ravages  ;  some  of 
our  friends  have  fallen  victims.  Lord  WilUam  Bentinck  did 
away  with  the  vaccine  department,  to  save  a  few  rupees  ;  from 
which  economy  many  have  lost  their  lives.  It  is  a  dreadful 
illness,  the  small-pox  in  this  country.  People  are  in  a  fright 
respecting  the  plague;  they  say  it  is  at  Palee,  and  has  ap- 
proached the  borders  of  the  Company's  territories ;  we  have 
fevers,  cholera,  and  deadly  illnesses  enough,  without  the  plague  ; 
it  is  to  be  trusted  that  will  not  be  added  to  the  evils  of  this 
climate. 

The  Palee  plague,  they  say,  after  all,  is  not  the  genuine  thing  : 
it  has  not  as  yet  entered  our  territories ;  however,  the  Govern- 
ment of  Agra  have  very  wisely  adopted  preventive  measures, 
and  have  established  boards  of  health,  cordons,  and  quarantine, 
with  the  usual  measures  as  to  fumigations  and  disinfectants. 
It  would  be  really  too  bad  to  give  this  stranger  a  playground, 
in  addition  to  our  old  friends  fever  and  cholera,  already 
domesticated. 

I5th. — The  first  time  of  using  the  thermantidote  was  this 
morning  :  how  delightful  was  the  stream  of  cool  air  it  sent  into 
the  hot  room !  how  grateful  is  the  coolness  and  darkness  of  the 
house,  in  contrast  to  the  heat  and  glare  on  the  river ! 


THE    GAJA    RAJA    PERFORMS    POOJA    AS    A    FAKIR.  Ill 

I5th. — This  day  is  the  anniversary  of  the  birthday  of  the  Gaja 
Raja  Sahib,  and  she  has  sent  me  an  invitation  to  accompany  her 
to  the  Triveni,  the  sacred  junction  of  the  rivers,  to  see  her  per- 
form a  vow,  made  for  her  by  her  mother.  The  young  Princess 
from  her  birth  was  very  sickly,  and  the  mother,  fearing  the  death 
of  her  infant,  vowed  to  Mahadeo  that  if  the  god  would  preserve 
her  life,  she  should  do  pooja  as  a  fakir,  at  the  shrine,  on  each 
anniversary  of  her  natal  day.  The  time  having  arrived,  the  young 
Mahratta  Princess  will  perform  the  vow  in  the  evening.  How 
much  I  regret  I  am  unable  to  attend ;  unfortunately  illness  pre- 
vents my  quitting  the  house.  Picture  to  yourself  the  extraor- 
dinary scene.  The  young  Princess  doing  pooja  before  the  shrine 
of  Mahadeo,  a  descent  on  earth  of  Shivii  the  destroyer.  Her 
delicate  form  covered  from  head  to  foot  with  a  mixture  of  ashes 
and  Ganges  mud ;  her  long  black  hair  matted  with  the  same, 
and  bound  round  her  head  like  a  turban  ;  her  attire  the  skin  of  a 
tiger ;  her  necklace  of  human  bones,  a  rosary  in  her  hand,  and 
a  human  skull  for  an  alms-dish, — a  religious  mendicant ;  or 
making  discordant  music  on  a  sort  of  double-headed  hand- 
drum  used  by  fakirs,  and  wandering  about  within  the  canvas 
walls  of  the  zenana  tent  like  a  maniac !  The  skull  borne  by 
religious  mendicants  is  to  represent  that  of  Briimha.  Shivu, 
in  a  quarrel,  cut  off  one  of  Briimha's  five  heads,  and  made  an 
alms-dish  of  it.  As  the  Gaja  Riija  appeared  as  a  rehgious 
mendicant,  the  form  in  which  the  lord  of  the  Bhootus  appeared 
on  earth,  I  hope  some  of  the  ladies  represented  the  latter,  a 
number  of  whom  always  attended  Shivii.  The  Bhootiis  are 
beings  partly  in  human  shape,  though  some  of  them  have  the 
faces  of  horses,  others  of  camels,  others  of  monkeys,  &c. ; 
some  have  the  bodies  of  horses,  and  the  faces  of  men ;  some 
have  one  leg,  and  some  two ;  some  have  only  one  ear,  and 
others  only  one  eye.  They  would  have  made  charming  attend- 
ants on  the  little  Princess,  who,  wrapped  in  a  tiger's  skin,  and 
wandering  like  a  maniac,  performed,  before  the  shrine  of 
Mahadeo,  the  vow  made  in  her  name  by  her  mother  at  her 
birth  ! 

The   Hon.   Miss  Frances  Eden  has  been   with   a   party   at 


112  WANDERINOS    OF    A    PILORIM. 

Moorshadabad,  tiger  shooting ;  they  had  indifferent  sport,  and 
only  killed  five  tigers,  one  of  which  had  the  happiness  of  dying 
before  the  eyes  of  the  fair  lady.  They  have  returned  to  Cal- 
cutta. It  must  have  been  warm  work  in  the  jungles  after  the 
tigers ;  but  when  one  has  an  object  in  view,  one  is  apt  to  forget 
the  power  of  an  Indian  sun,  until  a  good  fever  reminds  one  of 
the  danger  of  exposure. 

2\st. — Last  night,  at  midnight,  the  moon  was  completely 
eclipsed,  and  darkness  fell  over  the  land.  The  natives  are 
horror-struck ;  they  say  it  foretels  sickness,  disease,  and  death 
to  a  dreadful  extent.  It  is  not  unlikely  their  fears  may  be 
verified :  the  plague  is  raging  at  Palee ;  it  is  expected  it  will 
spread  ere  long  to  the  Company's  territories.  Then,  indeed, 
will  the  natives  believe  in  the  direful  presages  of  the  eclipse, 
forgetting  the  plague  was  the  forerunner  not  the  follower  of  the 
signs  of  wrath  in  the  heavens.  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe  has  issued 
all  necessary  orders  to  prevent  the  intercourse  of  persons  from 
the  infected  cities,  with  those  of  the  surrounding  country.  The 
small-pox  is  carrying  off  the  young  and  the  healthy ;  in  every 
part  of  the  country  you  hear  of  its  fatal  effects. 

The  Brija  Bii'i,  one  of  the  favourite  attendants  on  the  Balza 
Ba'I,  came  to  see  me ;  I  showed  her  a  prize  I  had  won  in  a 
lottery  at  Calcutta  ;  a  silver  vase  beautifully  enamelled  in  gold, 
value  £40.  She  was  much  pleased  with  it,  and  anxious  to 
procure  tickets  in  the  next  lottery  for  mechanical  curiosities. 

22nd. — The  Baiza  Ba'i  sent  to  me  to  say  she  had  put  into  a 
lottery,  and  feared,  having  only  taken  seven  tickets,  she  might 
not  gain  a  prize,  and  her  people  would  say  she  was  unlucky. 
Therefore,  to  avert  the  evil  of  being  called  an  unlucky  person, 
she  wished  to  procure  the  whole  of  the  tickets  which  remained 
unsold.  I  tried  to  persuade  her  that  she  had  tickets  in  abund- 
ance ;  nevertheless  she  sent  for  thirty  more.  How  curiously 
superstitious  the  natives  are !  She  is  as  much  pleased  as  a  child 
at  this  little  bit  of  gambUng  for  mechanical  curiosities  and 
jewellery. 

24th. — The  Brija  came  to  request  I  would  visit  the  camp 
to  show  them  how  to  use  a  magic-lantern  ;    I  did  so,   but  it 


THE    AUTOGRAPH.  1  13 

was  a  failure,  being  dim  and  indistinct.  In  the  course  of  con- 
versation, wishing  to  remember  a  circumstance  related  by  one  of 
the  ladies  in  attendance,  I  noted  it  in  my  pocket-book,  on  a 
little  slate  of  white  china.  Her  Highness,  who  observed  the 
action,  asked  for  the  pocket-book,  examined  it,  admired  the 
delicately  white  china,  and  asking  for  a  pencil  wrote  her  own 
name  upon  it.  She  appeared  surprised  at  my  being  able  to  read 
and  write,  accomplishments  possessed  by  herself,  but  uncommon 
among  the  Mahratta  ladies,  who  are  seldom  able  to  attain  them, 
it  being  the  system  of  eastern  nations  to  keep  their  women  in 
ignorance,  imagining  it  gives  them  greater  power  over  them. 
They  are  taught  to  consider  it  unfit  for  ladies  of  rank,  and  that 
it  ought  to  be  done  for  them  by  their  writers  and  munshls ; 
nevertheless,  they  were  proud  of  the  accomplishments  possessed 
by  the  Baiza  Ba'I. 

Her  Highness  returned  me  the  pocket-book,  which  I  received 
with  pleasure,  and  value  highly  for  the  sake  of  the  autograph, 
of  which,  in  the  plate  entitled  "The  Kharlta,"  the  writing  on 
the  right-hand  side  is  a  fac-simile. 

All  the  needlework  is  done  by  women  in  the  zenana :  to 
allow  a  tailor  to  make  your  attire  would  be  considered  indelicate, 
and  their  clothes  are  never  allowed  to  be  shown  to  men,  lest 
they  should  thus  be  able  to  judge  of  the  form  of  the  lady  purda- 
nishln,  i.  e.  behind  the  curtain.  Imagine  the  disgust  an  Asiatic 
lady  would  feel  if  placed  in  Regent  Street,  on  beholding  figures 
displayed  in  shop  windows,  intended  to  represent  English  ladies 
in  corsets,  bustles,  and  under  petticoats,  turning  round  on  poles, 
displaying  for  the  laughter  and  criticism  of  the  men  the  whole 
curious  and  extraordinary  arcana  of  the  toilet  of  an  European  ! 

May  5th. — The  Biiiza  Ba'I  was  unable  to  get  the  thirty 
tickets  she  sent  for  in  the  lottery  ;  eighteen  were  all  that  were 
unsold,  and  these  were  taken  by  her.  She  wcis  very  fortunate,  and 
won  two  prizes  ;  one  was  an  ornament  in  diamonds  attached  to 
a  necklace  of  two  strings  of  pearls,  and  a  pair  of  diamond  ear- 
rings, valued  at  2000  rupees,  i.  e.  £200 ;  the  second  a  clock, 
valued  at  400  rupees,  £40  :  my  own  ticket  proved  a  blank. 
The  clock  is  placed  on  a  rock  in  the  picture,  on  which  are  trees, 

VOL.  11.  .        I, 


114  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

a  town,  and  a  fort.  In  front  is  the  sea,  on  which  float  a  three- 
decker  and  a  cutter,  which  roll  upon  the  waves  moved  by- 
mechanism.  The  Mahrattas  were  charmed  with  it :  it  is  a  good 
specimen,  but  they  will  spoil  it  in  a  month. 

Copy  from  a  native  Akhbar  {Court  Newspaper). 

July  7th. — "The  King  of  Oude,  Nusseer-ood-Deen  Hydur, 
died  this  morning ;  he  had  been  unwell  for  some  days,  but  not 
very  ill :  he  took  some  medicine,  and  expired  almost  immediately, 
not  without  some  suspicion  of  having  been  poisoned.  Colonel 
Lowe,  the  Resident,  went  to  the  palace,  and  was  proceeding  to 
place  the  late  King's  uncle  on  the  throne,  by  name  Nusseer- 
ood-Deen,  when  the  Padshah  Begam,  the  late  King's  mother, 
attended  by  fifteen  hundred  soldiers  and  two  elephants,  came 
to  the  palace,  bringing  a  boy  whom  she  vowed  was  the  late 
King's  son,  with  the  intention  of  putting  him  on  the  throne. 
Finding  the  palace-gates  shut,  she  ordered  them  to  be  burst 
open  by  the  elephants,  entered,  placed  the  boy  Moona  Jah 
(Feredooa  Buckht)  on  the  throne,  and  desired  the  Resi- 
dent to  do  him  homage.  In  the  mean  time.  Colonel  Lowe 
had  sent  for  the  troops  ;  on  their  arrival,  he  insisted  on  the 
Begam's  quitting  the  palace  ;  this  she  would  not  do.  The  troops 
were  ordered  to  dislodge  her  party.  The  Begam  and  Moona  Jiih 
were  taken  prisoners,  and  sent  under  a  guard  to  Cawnpore. 
The  soldiers  were  dispersed,  with  the  loss  of  about  sixty  lives 
on  the  Begam's  side,  and  two  or  three  sepoys  on  the  Company's. 
Mr.  Paton,  Assistant  to  the  Resident,  was  much  hurt  in 
the  affray.  Colonel  Lowe  placed  the  King's  uncle  on  the 
throne,  and  proclaimed  him  King  of  Oude.  It  is  said  the 
throne  was  plundered  of  its  jewels  to  a  great  amount,  and  much 
treasure  was  carried  off"  by  different  persons ;  some  of  which 
was  recaptured  a  few  miles  from  the  city.  Since  the  arrival  of 
the  Padshah  Begam  and  the  boy  at  Cawnpore,  every  thing  has 
been  quiet  in  Lucnow ;  she  is  to  be  sent  a  state  prisoner  to 
Chunar.  It  is  believed  the  boy  is  not  the  late  King's  son,  but 
was  made  a  tool  of  for  the  purposes  of  the  Begam." 

By  referring  to  Chapter  the  Eighteenth  it  will  be  observed,  that, 


DEATH  OF  THE  KING  OF  OUDE.  115 

on  the  30th  January,  1831,  Khema  Jah  and  Moona  Jah  were 
presented  with  khil'ats  (dresses  of  honour)  by  his  Majesty,  who 
declared  the  former  to  be  his  heir,  and  both  of  them  his  sons  ; 
the  latter,  the  Moona  Jah,  now  en  route  to  prison,  alone  was 
believed  to  be  the  son  of  the  King.  It  is  rumoured  that  his 
Majesty  disowned  the  boys  in  the  hope  that  his  lately-acquired 
wife,  Kurchia-Mahal,  as  he  styled  her,  might  present  him  with 
a  son,  whom  he  might  raise  to  the  throne.  Moona  Jah  remained 
at  Chunar  until  his  death  in  1846.  The  King's  uncle,  Muham- 
mad Ulee  Shah,  an  old  man,  was  placed  on  the  masnad ;  and 
Mossem-ood-Dowla,  the  grandson  of  Ghazee-ood-Deen  Hydur, 
and  son  of  his  daughter,  was  deprived  of  his  inheritance. — 
(See  the  pedigree  of  the  Kings  of  Oude,  Chapter  the  Eighteenth, 
page  186.) 


I  2 


CHAPTER   XLVII. 


RADHA  KRISHNU— SPORTING  IN  ASSAM. 

Festival  of  the  Birthday  of  Krishnii — The  Ras — The  Rakhi — Krishnu  or 
Kaniya — Sports  of  the  GopTs — The  Elephant — The  Horse — Gopalu — GopT 
Nat'hii—Radha  Krishnii — Krishnii  destroying  the  Serpent — Monotony  of  Life 
in  India — The  Holy  Monkey — Sporting  in  Assam — Buffalo  Shooting — Tiger 
Hunting  on  Foot — The  Baghmars — The  Spring-bow — An  Earthquake — Risk 
of  Life  in  the  Bhagmar  Department — The  Burying-Ground  at  Goalparah. 

1837,  Aug. — ^The  first  few  days  in  this  month  we  were  blessed 
with  cooling  and  heavy  rain.  On  the  6th,  the  annual  festival  of 
the  Jenem,  or  birthday,  and  the  sports  of  Krishnu,  the  Baiza  Ba'i 
invited  me  to  the  camp  :  on  my  arrival  I  found  her  Highness 
seated  under  a  large  mango  tree  ;  from  one  of  its  boughs  a  swing 
was  suspended,  in  which  the  Gaja  Raja  and  another  lady  were 
amusing  themselves.  This  festival,  in  celebration  of  the  sports 
of  the  most  popular  of  the  Hindoo  deities,  was  held  in  all  due 
form  by  the  Mahrattas  ;  it  took  place  by  torch-light,  in  the  cool 
of  the  evening.  In  the  forests  on  the  banks  of  the  Yamuna 
Krishnu  passed  his  time,  playing  on  the  flute,  swinging  under 
the  trees,  dancing,  and  sporting  with  the  gopls.  The  young 
Princess  was  therefore  amusing  herself  in  the  swing  as  a  necessary 
ceremony ;  after  which,  some  sixty  or  eighty  Mahratta  women 
came  forward,  and  performed  several  dances  sacred  to  the 
•  season,  singing  as  they  moved  on  the  turf,  in  a  circular  dance 
called  the  ras,  in  imitation  of  the  gopis  ;  and  the  "  Songs  of 
Govinda,"  as  addressed  by  Kaniya  to  Radha  and  her  com- 
panions, were  rehearsed  at  this  festival,  with  a  scenic  represen- 


THE  RAKHI.  1  1  7 

tation  of  Kaniya  and  the  gopis.  "The  Ustener  could  not 
depart  after  once  hearing  the  sound  of  the  flute,  and  the  tinkling 
of  the  gopias'  feet ;  nor  could  the  birds  stir  a  wing ;  while  the 
pupils  of  the  gopias'  eyes  all  turned  towards  Creeshna." 

Her  Highness  presented  a  rich  dress  of  yellow  silk,  em- 
broidered with  gold,  and  a  pair  of  Indian  shawls  of  the  same 
colour,  to  the  Gaja  Raja,  and  to  many  of  the  ladies  in  attend- 
ance ;  yellow  being  the  favourite  and  distinguishing  colour  of  the 
attire  of  the  beloved  of  the  gopls.  On  the  arms  of  the  young 
Mahratta  Princess  and  another  lady,  the  rakhl  was  bound  at  the 
desire  of  the  Biiiza  Ba'i ;  the  rakhi  is  also  commemorative  of 
Krishnii :  the  gift  is  esteemed  a  high  honour,  and  the  mark  of 
the  greatest  favour.  The  value  of  so  distinguished  an  honour 
may  be  better  estimated  by  the  following  extract  from  Colonel 
Tod's  "  Annals  of  Mewar." 

"  The  festival  of  the  bracelet  (rakhl)  is  in  spring;  and  what- 
ever its  origin,  it  is  one  of  the  few  when  an  intercourse  of 
gallantry  of  the  most  delicate  nature  is  established  between  the 
fair  sex  and  the  cavaliers  of  Rajast'han.  Though  the  bracelet 
may  be  sent  by  maidens,  it  is  only  on  occasions  of  urgent 
necessity  or  danger.  The  Rajpiit  dame  bestows  with  the  rakhi 
the  title  of  adopted  brother ;  and  while  its  acceptance  secures 
to  her  all  the  protection  of  a  '  cavalier e  servente,'  scandal  itself 
never  suggests  any  other  tie  to  his  devotion.  He  may  hazard 
his  life  in  her  cause,  and  yet  never  receive  a  smile  in  reward ; 
for  he  cannot  even  see  the  fair  object,  who,  as  brother  of  her 
adoption,  has  constituted  him  her  defender.  But  there  is  a 
charm  in  the  mystery  of  such  a  connexion  never  endangered  by 
close  observation,  and  the  loyal  to  the  fair  may  well  attach  a 
value  to  the  public  recognition  of  being  the  Rakhi-bund  Bha'e, 
the  '  bracelet-bound  brother'  of  a  Princess.  The  intrinsic  value 
of  such  a  pledge  is  never  looked  to,  nor  is  it  requisite  that  it 
should  be  costly,  though  it  varies  with  the  means  and  rank  of 
the  donor,  and  may  be  of  flock  silk  and  spangles,  or  gold  chains 
and  gems.  The  acceptance  of  the  pledge  and  its  return  is  by 
the  katchli  or  corset  of  simple  silk  or  satin,  or  gold  brocade  and 
pearls.     In  shape  or  appUcation  there  is   nothing   similar   in 


118  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Europe,  and,  as  defending  the  most  delicate  part  of  the  structure 
of  the  fair,  it  is  peculiarly  appropriate  as  an  emblem  of 
devotion." 

The  rakhi  is  not  exclusively  bestowed  upon  men ;  a  woman 
may  be  distinguished  by  the  honour,  and  would  be  pubhcly 
acknowledged  and  considered  as  the  "  bracelet-bound  sister"  of 
the  donor. 

The  evening  closed  with  the  performances  of  some  Mahratta 
niich  girls,  after  which  I  was  allowed  to  depart,  having  first 
partaken  of  some  sweetmeats,  which  they  presented  to  me  with 
a  jar  of  dahi  (curdled  milk) ;  the  latter  was  excellent,  and  usually 
presented  at  this  festival  as  the  favourite  food  of  the  gopls.  I 
returned  home  late  at  night,  accompanied  as  usual  by  the 
horsemen  and  torch-bearers  of  the  Biiiza  Ba'I. 

I  have  many  idols,  images  of  Krishnti,  in  divers  forms ;  a 
description  of  which,  with  a  sketch  of  his  life,  will  be  the  best 
explanation  of  the  scenes  commemorated  at  the  festival.  He 
has  many  names,  Krishnii,  Heri,  Kaniya,  and  is  worshipped 
under  many  forms  ;  the  idols  represent  this  popular  god  through 
many  of  the  events  of  his  life. 

KRISHNU    OR    KANIYA. 

Vishnu  the  Preserver  descended  on  earth  in  the  form  of  this 
god,  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  peace  and  happiness  to  all  the 
world.  Krishnii  is  the  most  celebrated  form  of  Vishnu,  or, 
rather,  Vishnu  himself;  and  is  distinct  from  the  ten  avatars  or 
incarnations.  Many  of  the  Hindii  gods  govern  their  worshippers 
by  fear ;  the  dread  of  the  vengeance  of  the  deity  ensures 
obedience.  Krishnii  is  the  god  of  love  and  good-will :  to  bless 
mankind  caused  his  descent  from  heaven ;  and  after  many 
years'  sojourn  upon  earth  for  that  holy  purpose,  he  suddenly 
disappeared. 

Such  was  his  power  over  the  affections,  that  no  woman  ever 
beheld  Kaniyii-jee,  but  she  left  home  and  husband  and  children, 
and  followed  him  throughout  the  world ;  no  eye  gazed  upon 
him  that  loved  him  not ;  and  to  this  day,  the  beautiful,  warlike. 


KRISHNU.  119 

and  amorous  Krishnii  is  the  most  popular  deity,  and  especially 
revered  by  Hindustani  women. 

His  parents  were  Vasudeva  and  Dewarki ;  but  he  was  brought 
up  in  the  house  of  Nanda  and  Gosodii.  In  his  infant  days  his 
life  was  sought :  to  preserve  the  child,  and  to  conceal  him  from 
the  tyrant  Kansa,  to  whom  it  had  been  predicted  that  a  child, 
the  eighth  of  his  family,  would  destroy  him,  his  uncle  fled  with 
him  to  the  banks  of  the  Jumna :  the  pursuers  were  at  his  heels, 
escape  was  impossible ;  the  infant  god  commanded  the  waters 
to  open  a  passage  for  him ;  the  waters  heard  and  obeyed  the 
command,  they  stood  like  a  wall  on  the  right  side  and  on  the 
left ;  Krishnu  was  carried  across  by  his  relative  ;  on  reaching 
the  opposite  bank,  the  waters  flowed  on  as  before,  and  cut  off" 
the  pursuit  of  his  enemies. 

The  city  of  Mathura  is  celebrated  as  the  birth-place  of 
Krishnu.  In  the  family  of  Nanda  he  passed  his  youth  amidst 
the  gopas  and  gopls.  During  his  childhood  he  vanquished  the 
serpent  Kaliya,  and  slew  many  giants  and  monsters  :  afterwards 
he  put  the  tyrant  Kansa  to  death,  and  kindled  the  maha-biirat 
or  Great  War.  He  is  the  Apollo  of  the  Hindus,  and  is  sup- 
posed by  Colonel  Wilford  to  have  lived  about  thirteen  hundred 
years  before  Christ.  Krishnu  is  a  terrestrial  god,  and  is  repre- 
sented by  the  image  in  black  marble  that  stands  on  the  right  of 
Ganesh,  in  the  frontispiece  of  the  first  volume  ;  I  procured  it  at 
Allahabad  during  the  great  fair ;  it  came  from  Jeypore.  The 
Hindoo  deity  is  represented  playing  on  the  flute,  an  amusement 
to  which  he  was  prone  when  in  the  forests,  surrounded  by  the 
gopls  or  milkmaids,  who  were  his  ardent  admirers  and  followers  ; 
amongst  them  he  had  16,000  lady-loves,  besides  his  lawful 
wives.  The  Hindoo  code  allows  of  two  helpmates,  but  the  laws 
of  man  extend  not  to  the  gods,  and  Krishnu  took  unto  himself 
eight  wives,  each  of  whom  bore  him  ten  sons  ;  also  Radha,  the 
beloved,  the  wife  of  another,  to  say  nothing  of  the  16,000 
gopis,  each  of  whom  also  bore  him  ten  sons.  Nevertheless, 
it  is  asserted,  his  life  was  one  of  purity,  and  whatever  may  tend 
to  give  contrary  ideas  on  the  subject  is  all  mdyd  or  illusion. 

The  Bhagavat  Purana  gives  the  following: — "In  this  happy 


120  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM. 

season  did  Creeshna  bestow  joy  and  satisfaction  on  all  living 
creatures,  and  often  as  he  touched  his  flute  in  the  presence  of 
the  adoring  gopias,  one  exclaimed,  '  Happy  animals,  inhabiting 
Berjeben,  who  enjoy  the  sight  of  Creeshna!'  Another  said, 
'  O  favoured  stream  of  Jumna,  and  other  transparent  pools  and 
fountains,  whence  Creeshna  deigns  to  drink  !'  Another  ex- 
claimed, '  Melodious  above  all  is  the  flute  which  resides  for  ever 
on  his  lip ! '  Another  said,  '  O  happy  trees  of  this  wood,  under 
whose  thick  shade  Creeshna  delights  to  slumber  !'  Another  said, 
'  Honoured  above  all  existing  animals  are  these  cattle  which 
the  Creator  himself  leads  to  pasture ! '  Thus  did  the  gopias 
plunge  into  the  fathomless  ocean  of  love,  and  admire  him 
who  had  on  a  yellow  robe,  a  peacock's  feather  on  his  head, 
a  brilliant  rosary  round  his  neck,  and  a  flute  on  his  lip ; 
and  they  said  to  each  other,  '  How  happy  are  we  whom  he 
condescends  to  love!'  In  short,  by  their  purity  of  faith,  and 
zeal  of  attachment,  their  hearts  at  length  became  illuminated, 
and  they  knew  and  comprehended  that  Creeshna  was  the 
Creator  of  the  World." 

The  Bhagavat  Purana  gives  this  personal  description  : — "  He 
(Akroon)  saw  also,  standing  by  him,  more  distinctly,  the  form 
of  Creeshna,  of  a  black  colour,  wearing  a  yellow  robe,  beautiful 
to  behold  ;  with  ruby  lips,  his  neck  smooth  as  white  coral,  his 
arms  very  long  and  slender,  his  breast  high  and  bold,  his  waist 
of  elegant  proportion,  his  legs  beautiful  beyond  expression,  his 
foot  like  the  lotus  flower,  and  his  nails  red.  He  had  a  jewel  of 
inestimable  value  in  his  crown,  a  chowder  round  his  waist,  a 
zennar  upon  his  shoulder,  a  string  of  flowers  round  his  neck,  a 
splendid  koondel  in  his  ear,  the  kowstek-men  on  his  arm,  and 
the  shankhe,  chakra,  geda,  and  kemel,  in  his  hands." 

The  work  containing  the  history  of  this  god  is  very  interest- 
ing :  some  of  the  songs  are  beautiful,  especially  those  in  honour 
of  him  who,  to  the  Hindus,  brought  peace  and  happiness  upon 
earth.  In  many  respects  the  history  is  thought  by  Maurice,  in 
his  "Indian  Antiquities,"  to  resemble  that  of  our  Saviour; 
on  which  subject  more  will  be  said  as  we  consider  another  form 
of  Krishnu,  as  the  destroyer  of  the  serpent. 


KANIYAJEE    /NE    THE    GOPle. 


KANIYA-JEE    AND    THE    GOPIS.  121 

The  dreadful  shell  panchajanya,  of  the  great  shankhe,  or  shell- 
fish, whose  roar  re-echoed  from  earth  to  heaven,  was  used  by 
Krishnii  as  his  trumpet. 

So  devoted  were  the  gopis  to  Krishnii  the  beloved,  that  if  he 
wished  to  ride  an  elephant,  the  lovely  ladies,  with  most  extra- 
ordinary dexterity,  assumed  the  shape  of  the  animal  and  bore 
him  off  in  triumph.  The  frontispiece  to  the  second  volume, 
entitled  "  Kaniya-jee  and  the  Gopia,"  is  a  fac-simile  of  an  old 
Hindoo  painting  commemorative  of  this  feat :  the  style  in 
which  the  figures  are  grouped  is  very  clever,  and  does  much 
credit  to  the  artist ;  the  original  is  as  highly  finished  as  a  minia- 
ture painting.  The  chatr,  the  emblem  of  royalty,  is  borne  over 
his  head ;  peacock's  feathers  form  the  ornament  for  his  fore- 
head ;  and  in  his  hand  is  the  ankus  (the  elephant  goad)  and  a 
lotus  flower.  The  gopis  carry  with  them  their  musical  instru- 
ments ;  they  are  adorned  with  jewels,  and  the  tail  of  the  animal 
shows  the  beauty  and  length  of  their  hair. 

The  second  plate  of  Kaniya-jee  represents  the  victorious 
Heri  on  a  steed  formed  of  the  gopTs,  bounding  and  capering 
beneath  their  precious  burden,  while  their  musical  instruments 
and  songs  enliven  his  triumphal  career.  This  is  also  a  fac- 
simile of  an  old  Hindoo  painting,  finished  with  wonderful 
delicacy  and  minuteness. 

I  have  a  third  painting,  Krishnu,  represented  in  a  palanquin 
formed  of  the  gopis,  in  which  the  arrangement  and  grouping  of 
the  sportive  damsels  is  graceful  and  elegant.  At  the  festival  of 
the  Huh,  which  is  particularly  dedicated  to  Kaniyii,  images  of 
the  god  are  carried  about  on  elephants,  on  horses,  and  in  palan- 
quins, doubtless  in  commemoration  of  his  sports  with  the 
gopis  ;  in  fact,  there  was  no  end  to  their  fooleries  and  diver- 
sions at  Brindaban,  the  forest  Brinda  in  the  vicinity  of  Mathura 
on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna.  Krishnu  is  always  represented  of 
a  dark  cerulean  blue  colour  (nila),  hence  his  name  Nila-nath, 
and  he  bears  a  lotus  in  his  hand.  Under  the  title  of  Heri,  in 
funeral  lamentations,  his  name  only  is  invoked,  and  Heri-bol ! 
Heri-bol !  is  emphatically  pronounced  by  those  bearing  a  corpse 
to  its  final  destination. 


122  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

GOPALU. 

This  small  brazen  idol,  fig.  4  in  the  plate  entitled  "  Jugun- 
nathu,"  represents  him  in  his  childhood,  kneeling  on  one  knee, 
and  holding  a  pera,  sweetmeat,  in  his  right  hand,  while  he 
petitions  his  mother,  saying,  "  Ma,  ma,  mitha'i,  do  ;"  "  Mother, 
mother,  give  me  sweetmeats."  In  this  form  he  is  worshipped 
as  gao,  a  cow,  and  palii,  nourished.  These  brazen  images  are 
particularly  in  favour,  and  some,  being  small  and  well  made,  are 
used  as  household  gods.  Sometimes  the  head  of  Gopalu  is 
surrounded  with  a  crown  of  glory,  as  in  the  sketch ;  and  in 
drawings,  the  head  of  Krishnii  is  generally  represented  encircled 
by  rays. 

GOPi  nat'hu. 

This  form  represents  him  peculiarly  as  the  god  of  the  gopls. 
GopT,  the  wife  of  a  cowherd,  and  Nat'hii,  a  lord  ;  a  young  man 
dancing  amongst  the  wives  of  the  cowherds,  the  16,000  gopls, 
who  ever  attended  him,  and  were  the  companions  of  his 
sports. 

RADHA   KRISHN. 

Of  all  his  numerous  loves  and  wives,  none  had  power  over  his 
affections  equal  to  Radha,  a  gopi,  whom  he  carried  off  from 
her  husband.  So  great  was  her  influence,  that  in  puja  the  pre- 
ference is  given  to  her,  and  the  two  images  are  worshipped 
together  as  "  Radha  Krishn,"  and  not  as  Krishn  Radha. 

The  figure  represents  the  god  playing  on  his  flute  ;  and,  at  his 
side,  the  image  of  Radha,  which  has  one  hand  extended,  and  the 
other  turned  downwards.  Their  affection  has  passed  into  a 
proverb:  "  Apne  Radha  ko  yad  ker'."  As  Krishnii  always 
thought  of  Radha,  so  they  say,  "Attend  to  your  own  Radha," 
either  in  anger  or  laughingly.  The  shrine  of  Radha  Krishn  has 
many  worshippers  ;  but  it  is  remarkable  that  none  of  the  lawful 
wives  of  Krishnu  are  worshipped  with  him. 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  49. 


KRISHNU    THE    DESTROYER   OF    KALI-NAG.  123 

Another  figure  of  Kaniya-jee  in  my  possession,  represents  him 
under  a  tree  playing  on  his  flute ;  at  the  back  is  one  of  the 
cows  of  the  sacred  herd,  whom  Krishnii  attended,  for  by  caste 
he  was  a  gaowalla,  or  cowherd. 

Of  all  the  images  in  my  collection  the  most  remarkable  is  a 
brazen  one,  in  which  this  god  is  represented  killing  a  serpent 
by  crushing  it  with  his  foot.  The  Hindoos  affirm  there  is 
enmity  between  the  serpent  and  Krishnu.  His  having  his  foot 
on  the  head  of  the  cobra  di  capello,  which  is  evident  from  the 
expanded  hood,  is  singular,  as  few  Hindoos  would  kill  the  holy 
serpent.  This  similarity  between  the  Saviour  and  Krishnii  is 
considered  by  Maurice  as  worthy  of  remark. 

A  sketch  of  this  idol  is  given,  fig.  3,  in  the  plate  entitled 
"  Jugunnathu,"  where,  as  the  destroyer  of  Kali-nag,  "  The  black 
serpent,"  which  infested  the  blue  waters  of  the  Yamuna  or 
Jumna,  he  is  represented  as  bruising  him  with  his  foot.  He 
had,  however,  many  battles  with  his  adversary  ere  he  conquered 
him. 

The  following  extract  is  very  poetical :  — "  One  day,  in 
Dwaraka,  which  is  a  second  Vaicontha,  Creeshna  was  enjoying 
himself  with  his  relations,  and  sons,  and  grand-children,  and  his 
16,000  wives,  and  all  his  wealth:  his  elephants,  his  horses,  his 
carriages  without  number,  were  arranged  in  order.  In  the 
midst  of  his  golden  castle  extended  his  apartments  on  all  the 
four  sides.  His  gardens  were  of  golden  earth,  wherein  were 
trees  of  Paradise  full  of  variegated  fruits.  Peacocks,  and 
cocelas  (Indian  nightingales),  and  other  birds,  were  sporting 
therein.  Creeshna,  on  that  day,  was  surrounded  by  his  16,000 
wives,  as  lightning  with  a  cloud,  and  they  gathered  innumerable 
flowers  as  offerings  to  Creeshna,  hke  the  Devatas  presenting 
flowers  to  Eendra ;  and,  in  all  the  licence  of  joy,  they  and 
Creeshna  were  sporting  together,  and  throwing  flowers  at  each 
other.  In  the  garden  was  a  river,  whose  banks  were  all  gold 
and  jewels,  the  water  of  which,  from  the  reflections  of  rubies, 
appeared  red,  though  perfectly  white ;  it  was  the  imter  of  life ; 
and  thousands  of  lotuses  floated  on  its  surface,  among  which 
innumerable  bees  were  humming  and  seeking  their  food.     In 


124  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

this  river  they  bathed  and  played,  Creeshna  always  in  the  midst 
of  them.  At  length,  in  the  very  height  of  all  their  revels  and 
enjoyments,  he  suddenly  disappeared !  His  principal  wives, 
which  were  the  eight  nayega,  remained  for  some  time  in  pro- 
found astonishment :  then  they  all  burst  out  into  the  most 
passionate  exclamations,  crying,  '  Whither  is  he  gone  ?  '  One 
demanded  of  the  birds  if  they  had  seen  him,  wondering  they 
could  sing  until  he  returned.  Another  asked  of  the  four-footed 
beasts  why  they  made  such  loud  moanings,  as  if  Creeshna  had 
left  and  deceived  them  too.  One  addressed  the  sea,  '  Thou 
ocean !  who  art  night  and  day  roaring,  hath  not  Creeshna  taken 
thy  fourteen  reten,  or  precious  things,  also,  as  well  as  our 
hearts,  and  is  it  not  therefore  thou  grievest  ? '  Another  ad- 
dressed the  moon,  '  O  thou  lord  of  the  stars !  why  dost  not 
thou  draw  on  the  w^orld  the  veil  of  darkness  ?  Art  thou  not 
affected  by  his  absence  ?  at  which  every  one  must  be  heartless, 
like  us  wretched  creatures,  who  know  not  what  is  our  fault  to 
be  thus  forgotten  and  forsaken.'  Another  spake  to  the  passing 
clouds,  '  Ye,  too,  are  impressed  with  the  colour  and  figure 
of  Creeshna  ;  and,  as  he  has  taken  his  departure,  so  ye  also  are 
ever  on  the  wing ;  and  ye,  like  us  mourning  for  his  absence, 
overspread  every  quarter  with  gloom.'" 

In  the  chapter  entitled  Jugunnathu  will  be  found  an  account 
of  the  death  of  Krishnu,  and  the  effect  it  produced  upon  the 
eight  nayega  and  the  16,000  gopls. 

I5th. — A  heavy  flight  of  locusts  passed  over  Allahabad ; 
some  were  caught  and  preserved.  Why  should  I  keep  a 
journal  ?  there  is  nothing  to  relate  in  the  monotony  of  an 
Indian  life  at  home.  The  weary  heavy  day,  the  hot  and  sleep- 
less night,  the  excessive  heat  of  the  weather,  the  relaxation  of 
the  body,  the  heaviness  of  mind,  the  want  of  interest  in  every 
thing,  the  necessity  of  a  colder  air  and  colder  climate  to  restring 
nerves  that  are  suffering  from  fifteen  years'  residence  in  India  ; 
■ — all  this  I  feel  most  strongly,  and  must  either  return  to  England 
or  go  to  the  bilk  to  recruit  my  weary  frame.  There  is  a  great 
deal  of  pfija  going  on  in  the  camp  ;  the  Ba'i  wishes  me  to  see 
the  tamasha,  but  I  am  too  unwell  for  exertion. 


SPORTING    IN    ASSAM.  125 

The  only  monkey  I  ever  saw  in  my  life  that  I  did  not  think 

disgusting  was  one  which  Mr.  H brought  from  Assam.     A 

little  fellow  perfectly  jet  black,  with  white  eyebrows — a  curiosity. 
His  master  went  up  dak  to  Agra,  leaving  the  monkey,  baggage, 
and  servants  to  follow  in  a  boat.  The  monkey  was  provided 
with  foiu-  goats  to  furnish  him  with  milk  on  the  voyage ;  and 
some  tea  and  sugar,  as  it  was  his  custom  to  take  tea  every 
morning.  In  a  storm  the  boat  went  down  :  the  khidmatgar  in 
charge  of  it  said,  "  I  saved  the  monkey  and  my  children  with 
difficulty :  what  would  the  master  have  said  had  Jackoo  been 
drowned?  "  Poor  Jackoo's  four  goats  were  drowned,  and  with 
him  the  khidmatgar  called  on  me  at  Allahabad  to  assist  in  pro- 
curing others.  How  could  a  monkey  exist  without  milk  to  his 
tea?  His  beauty  attracted  great  admiration.  He  was  a  high  caste 
and  most  holy  monkey.  Coming  down  the  river  from  Assam,  he 
used  to  sit  on  the  mast-head  leaning  on  his  hand.  The  natives 
followed  the  boat  for  miles  making  salam  to  him.  I  believe  the 
creature  came  from  the  Garrows :  some  are  black,  others  of  a 
cream  colour.  They  are  most  affectionate  animals,  leaving  their 
food  to  caress  one.  They  hang  for  great  part  of  the  day  by  their 
long  arms  from  a  bough  or  a  bamboo  running  crossways. 

Besides  these  monkeys  the  Garrow  Hills  possess  many 
curiosities  ;  birds,  plants,  &c.  Amongst  the  birds  is  a  pheasant 
of  a  grey  colour,  covered  over  with  eyes  like  those  on  the  pea- 
cock's tail,  but  smaller  :  it  is  very  beautiful. 

SPORTING   IN    ASSAM. 

Alluding  to  that  part  of  the  country  induces  me  to  insert 
extracts  from  some  letters  dated  from  Goalparah,  giving  an 
account  of  buffalo  shooting  and  sporting  in  that  part  of  the 
country. 

"  This  letter  is  taken  up  with  Shikiir  in  obedience  to  your 
wishes.  You  have  at  heart  a  large  share  of  the  hunting  prin- 
ciple, supposed  to  characterize  mankind  in  a  wild  state.  I  have 
seen  you  in  your  excursion  at  Gaur,  very  anxious  where  the 
covert  had  a  likely  look,  and  so  attentive  when  the  game  was 
started  as  not  to  be  conscious  of  the  thunder  and  lightning  of 


126  WANDERINOS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

the  pestilent  gun,  which  is  such  an  object  of  horror  in  your 
hours  of  ease.  I  recall  these  recollections  as  an  excuse  to 
myself  for  making  a  long  story  of  a  late  shooting  excursion. 

"  In  the  dawn  of  last  Friday  morning  nine  buffaloes  were  dis- 
covered in  the  river  making  for  our  hill,  two  were  killed  in  the 
water  by  villagers  in  boats,  and  three  on  shore  by  the  men  of  the 
detachment ;  the  remaining  four  took  to  the  conical  rising  ground, 
at  the  southern  extremity  of  our  ridge,  which  is  uninhabited, 
and  covered  with  low  tree  and  shrub  jungle ;  a  few  trees  a  little 
larger  rise  through  this  undergrowth,  and  form  the  pathway  that 
surrounds  the  cone,  the  finest  peepul  I  have  ever  seen.  This 
pathway  branches  off"  at  the  point,  where  the  cone,  or  rather  the 
detached  hill,  begins  to  rise  from  the  main  ridge,  going  entirely 
round  it  at  the  height  of  about  four  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  river.  My  havaldar,  who  took  upon  himself  the  ordering 
of  the  hunt,  sent  five  men  with  muskets  round  by  the  left  to  esta- 
blish themselves  in  the  high  trees  that  look  into  the  jungle 

supposed  to  contain  the  bufialoes.     A  Mr.  F and  myself, 

with  three  or  four  sepoys  and  the  havaldar,  all  with  guns,  pro- 
ceeded by  the  right  to  some  rocks,  where,  in  perfect  safety,  we 
commanded  the  road,  at  the  back  of  the  hill,  by  which  it  was 
expected  the  buffaloes  would  arrive  when  dislodged  by  the  left- 
hand  party.  After  some  time  in  this  post,  in  a  hot  sun, — it  was 
a  clear  day,  and  2  p.m., — we  heard  a  shot  from  the  party  on  the 
other  side  of  the  hill ;  and  then,  after  an  interval,  two  more  ;  we 
looked  eagerly  for  the  buffaloes  along  the  pathway,  but  still  they 

did  not  come ;  and  Mr.  F getting  tired,  descended  from 

our  place  of  safety  on  the  rocks,  and  proposed  going  round  to 
where  the  shots  were  fired.  As  it  was  possible  that  the  men  in 
the  trees  might  mistake  us  for  buffaloes,  I  told  a  sepoy  to  call 
out  that  we  were  coming.  I  advanced  a  little  way  and  saw  two, 
one  large,  the  other  a  calf;  they  were  standing,  and  about  to 
turn  to  go  away.  I  aimed  my  large  gun  at  the  head  of  the 
calf  and  fired,  without  effect ;  I  turned  round  to  exchange  my 
large  gun  for  the  double  barrel  that  was  loaded,  when  1  found 
that,  except  my  orderly,  who  only  carried  powder  and  ball, 
and    the    hovildar   who   was  a  little    way   beyond    him,  every 


BUFFALOE    SHOOTING.  127 

one  had  fled.  The  havaldar  passed  on  the  call  for  my  double 
gun,  and  the  man  who  held  it  put  it  into  my  hand  in  time  ;  for 
the  two  buffaloes  I  had  seen,  either  irritated  by  my  dogs,  or 
alarmed  by  the  party  in  their  rear,  made  a  dash  down  the  road, 
the  large  one  leading,  with  its  head  at  the  charge  near  the 
ground,  and  snorting  at  the  dogs  that  were  flying  before  it. 
When  I  changed  my  gun  the  head  brute  was  not  eight  feet  from 
me :  firing  both  barrels  in  a  hurry  and  flurry,  I  jumped  down 
to  the  right  into  the  jungle  ;  it  was  the  affair  of  a  moment,  and 
my  dexterity  in  escape,  like  Falstaff's  at  Gads-hill,  was  upon 
instinct.  When  I  looked  along  the  road  in  the  line  of  the 
charge,  I  perceived  it  was  completely  cleared ;  all  within  sight 
had  made  the  same  jump  as  myself — the  orderly,  a  little  behind 
me,  the  havaldar  about  ten  yards  further  back  ;  the  former  had 
a  loaded  gun,  and  told  me  afterwards,  that  he  had  not  fired 
because  my  sacred  person  happened  to  be  in  a  line  with  the 
buffaloes, — a  civility  for  which  I  felt  thankful.  The  men  from  the 
trees  had  killed  an  old  buffalo,  which  I  found  lying  across  the 
road,  another  still  remained  in  the  jungle  near  the  top  of  the 
conical  hill.  I  began  to  ascend  through  wet  shrubs  and  over 
slippery  ground  ;  when  half-way  up  I  was  joined  by  Mr.  F- 


who  said  he  had  run  for  our  post  on  the  rock  the  instant  he 
heard  the  buffaloes,  and  only  gained  it  just  in  time  to  see  them 
pass  by  :  blood  was  flowing  from  the  shoulder  of  the  leading 
one ;  he  himself  fired  without  any  effect.  We  now  gained  the 
top  of  the  hill  on  which  there  is  an  open  spot,  overgrown  with 
a  coarse  jungle  grass  used  in  thatching ;  a  small  house  had 
formerly  stood  upon  the  place,  and  the  jungle  grass  probably 
sprung  up  from  grass-seed  fallen  from  the  chhappar  ;  the  thatched 
roof.  The  sepoys,  except  two  with  my  guns,  and  my  orderly, 
whom  I  trusted,  owing  to  his  late  steadiness,  to  hand  me  my 
double  gun,  took  to  the  trees,  and  Mr.  F followed  their  ex- 
ample. The  men  on  foot  began  beating  the  bushes,  directed  by 
the  corps  of  observation  in  the  trees.  At  length  a  full-grown 
buffalo  emerged  from  the  surrounding  jungle,  and  stood  before 
me  on  the  open  space.  Instantly  every  tree  opened  its  fire  ;  a 
single  grazing  shot  was  the  only  result ;  this  appeared  to  decide 


128  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

him,  lowering  his  horns  to  the  charge  (to  speak  poetically) ,  his 
hoofs  swallowed  up  the  space  between  us  ;  at  my  feet  was  the 
least  possible  swell  of  the  ground,  and  as  he  reached  it  I  stopped 
him  in  mid  career.  A  ball  from  my  large  gun  had  entered  his 
head,  between  the  horns, — a  little  to  the  right  as  facing  me, 
a  httle  to  the  left  as  regarded  himself.  He  fell  at  about  six 
feet  from  me. 

"  You  must  now  never  mention  Mr.  B 's  exploit,  since  an 

ordinary  mortal  has  done  as  much ;  for  my  part,  I  see  little 
cause  of  fear  from  buffaloes.  In  the  cold  weather,  the  usual 
shooting  season,  they  are  only  found  in  large  plains,  and  no 
person  with  a  trustworthy  gun  has  an  excuse  for  failing  to  kill 
in  such  a  situation,  where  he  must  have  long  notice  of  the 
charge.  Nothing  in  Friday's  experience  (not  man  Friday's)  will 
deter  me  from  going  after  very  large-horned  old  ones,  or  the 
young  calves,  whose  heads  make  excellent  soups  and  stews. 
The  manner  in  which  I  got  my  gun,  and  the  haste  I  was  obUged 
to  make  in  firing,  account  for  my  not  killing  the  leading  buffaloes 
in  the  road.  If  they  had  meditated  malice,  instead  of  only 
making  a  rush  to  get  away,  I  might  have  been  in  a  jeopardy. 
These  two  buffaloes  were  brought  in  during  the  day  by  the 
sepoys,  and  all  the  personages  of  my  story — the  nine  buffaloes 
are,  you  see,  accounted  for ; — and  the  tragedy  might  be  repre- 
sented on  the  stage,  if  nothing  but  the  unities  of  time  and  place 
were  requisite." 

TIGER   HUNTING    ON    FOOT. 

"  A  tiger  having  taken  refuge  in  our  hill,  I  was  anxious 
to  beat  him  up ;  the  sepoys  being  eager  to  join  me  I  told  the 
men  the  hunt  was  quite  optional,  and  that  the  volunteer  party 
might  take  as  many  muskets  as  they  pleased.  We  started  at 
1  P.M.,  and  soon  fell  in  with  his  immense  footprints,  taking  the 
direction  of  the  untenanted  and  jungly  hill.  A  curious  sort  of 
feeling  is  suggested  by  following  traces  of  this  kind,  that  are 
to  abut  you  know  not  how  soon  upon  the  grim  precursor  ;  going 
on  is  like  being  caught  in  the  rapid  leading  to  a  cataract.  We 
were  stationed  at  the  old  post  of  vantage  on  the  rocks,  the 


BUFFALO    SHOOTING.  129 

sepoys  began  beating  from  the  opposite  part  of  the  hill  ;  a  man 
in  a  tree  communicated  that  the  tiger  was  roused,  and  our 
expectation  of  his  coming  towards  us  was  for  a  time  intense. 
Keeping  to  the  jungle  of  the  hill  above  the  pathway,  he  turned 
back  in  the  direction  from  which  we  had  come,  and  avoided  the 
line  of  beaters.  We  quitted  the  rocks,  and  placed  ourselves  in 
the  pathway  beyond  the  part  of  the  jungle  the  tiger  had  taken 
to,  and  the  beating  by  the  men  bringing  round  the  left  of  the 
line  recommenced  towards  us.  Scarcely  a  minute  seemed  to 
have  elapsed  before  we  heard  an  ugh-ugh  from  the  tiger,  though 
we  were  in  ignorance  at  the  time  it  was  the  roar  with  which  he 
accompanied  his  spring  on  one  of  the  sepoys,  for  at  that  time 
we  got  no  sight  of  the  tiger ;  but  the  news  of  a  man  being 
knocked  down  soon  reached  us,  and  a  sepoy  carried  him  down 
upon  his  back ;  a  few  scratches  were  visible  on  the  shoulders, 
but  the  extent  of  the  principal  injury,  which  was  on  the  head, 
was  concealed  by  the  turban,  almost  completely  stained  with 
blood. 

"  I  heard  afterwards  that  he  was  a-head  of  the  others, 
crouching  down,  and  looking  into  the  jungle  grass  on  the  top  of 
the  hill,  at  the  edge  of  the  tree  jungle,  for  traces  of  the  tiger, 
when  the  animal  sprung  on  him  from  behind,  lighting  with  his 
fore-paws  on  his  shoulders  ;  and  that  the  wounds  inflicted  on 
the  scalp  were  from  a  bite,  the  teeth  luckily  slipping  over  the 
surface  of  the  skull.  Mr.  M and  I  took  a  more  advan- 
tageous position  on  the  slope  of  the  rising  ground,  facing  the 
conical  hill,  and  at  about  sixty  yards  from  the  place  where  we 
afterwards  saw  the  tiger  emerge.  An  havaldar  put  himself  at 
the  head  of  those  men  who  had  brought  guns,  and  continued 
the  hunt,  much  incensed  against  the  tiger ;  he  at  length  exposed 

his  whole   flank    at    about    sixty   yards   to    Mr.    M and 

myself.     Mr.  M fired  a  little  before  me,  and  striking  the 

tiger,  caused  him  to  turn  round  and  escape  the  heavier  bullet 
from  my  gun.     The  havaldar  shortly  after  shot   him  again  a 

little  in  front  of  the  hip  ;  Mr.  M 's  shot  was  behind  the 

shoulder.  We  left  the  tiger  for  that  day  ;  the  next  evening  we 
beat  the  whole  hill,  but  he  was  not  to  be  found  ;  probably  he 

VOL.  II,  K 


130  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

was  dead,  for  an  unusual  collection  of  crows,  vultures,  and 
adjutants  perching  or  flying  very  low,  seemed  to  give  token  of 
his  death.  The  wounded  sepoy  is  doing  very  well ;  and  the 
present  of  some  rupees  has  made  him  consider  himself  a  lucky 
fellow." 

THE    BAGHMARS. 

The  following  extract  must  not  be  omitted,  since  it  elucidates 
the  sketch  of  "The  Spring-bow,"  vol.  ii.  p.  73. 

"  I  must  tell  you  of  a  tiger  that  Lieutenant  M and  I 

went  out  to  kill,  and  only  succeeded  in  wounding.  Some  days 
ago,  a  cow  was  killed  on  this  our  hill  of  Goalpara,  and  tigers' 
footprints  were  in  beautiful  freshness  and  preservation  on  the 
footpath  around  that  remote  conical  hill  that  has  been  before 
mentioned.  Captain  Davidson's  assistant  got  two  elephants  for 
beating  the  jungle,  and  with  a  number  of  sepoys  with  muskets, 
I  went  out  again,  and  did  what  was  most  prudent,  by  remaining 
on  some  rocks  to  receive  the  tiger  when  he  should  clear  the 
jungle,  and  be  driven  towards  me.  The  jungle  was  beat,  but  no 
tiger  appeared,  and  the  sepoys,  getting  tired  of  waiting,  went 
into  the  jungle  to  beat  instead  of  the  elephants ;  as  this  was 
really  dangerous  I  advised  them  against  it,  but  uselessly ;  they 
seemed  quite  unconcerned,  and  to  think  it  an  affair  of  luck.  I 
told  the  httle  havaldar,  who  is  a  leader  on  these  occasions,  that 
the  tiger  would  kill  him  ;  he  said,  '  Yes,  he  would  if  I  were  to  let 
him ;'  and  this  was  not  the  least  the  bravado  it  would  have  been 
in  the  mouth  of  an  European,  but  the  man's  plain  meaning.  It 
is  his  opinion  of  the  tiger  that  he  is  a  beast  possessed  of  great 
hikmat,  cunning,  but  little  heart  or  liver ;  and  if  you  oppose  him 
resolutely,  like  the  devil  he  will  flee  from  you.  The  beaters  went 
cutting  down  the  jungle  and  shouting ;  and,  to  put  you  out  of 
suspense,  no  tiger  was  found,  though  the  edges  of  his  footprints 
were  still  fresh  and  crumbling. 

"  The  enterprize  of  bringing  in  the  tiger  was  resigned  to  some 
bhagmar  people,  professional  tiger-killers,  a  party  of  whom 
happened  to  be  in  Goalpara,  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  pay- 
ment for  heads  they  had  collected. 


THE    SPRING-BOW.  131 

"  Have  you  ever  seen  the  bow  they  set  for  tigers '  ?  It  is  laid 
on  one  side  the  animal's  track,  and  is  of  stronger  and  rather 
larger  proportions  than  a  bahangi  bamboo  ;  the  joint  force  of  two 
or  three  men  draws  the  string  back  when  the  arrow  is  to  be  set ; 
the  poisoned  head  of  the  arrow,  which  is  carried  separate,  is 
fitted  on,  and  a  piece  of  very  thin  twine  laid  from  the  bow 
across  the  animal's  path  ;  the  least  touch  on  this  string  dis- 
charges the  arrow  in  the  same  line  with  deadly  precision.  This 
bow  was  laid  the  night  after  our  battue,  and  the  next  morning, 
about  9  A.M.,  I  got  the  news  that  the  tiger  was  lying  dead  upon 
the  hill-side,  and  a  number  of  prisoners  were  about  to  carry  it  to 
Captain  Davidson's  ;  from  him  it  was  brought  to  me.  It  was  a 
fine  female,  killed  with  its  dinner  of  cow,  and  without  any 
wound  but  that  which  killed  it ; — good  proof  that  it  was  not  the 
tiger  we  saw,  who  was  twice  wounded,  as  was  shown  by  heavy 
clots  of  blood  fallen  on  leaves  over  which  he  retreated.  The  arrow 
had  buried  itself  only  to  the  depth  of  its  head,  just  behind  the 
left  shoulder :  the  mere  wound  could  not  have  caused  death,  but 
the  poison  did  ;  and  the  tiger  was  found  about  sixty  yards  from 
the  spot  where  it  came  in  contact  with  the  string.  The  poison 
is  the  same  in  appearance  as  that  on  the  arrow  you  got  at  Raj- 
mahal ;  the  tiger-killers  told  me  they  got  it  from  the  inhabitants 
of  Bhotan,  but  whether  these  last  make  or  retail  it  I  do  not 
know :  its  efficacy  is  tremendous. 

"  T  have  observed,  and  the  same  remark  must  have  occurred 
to  you,  that  these  Sebundies,  and  natives  generally  who  live  in 
the  constant  vicinity  of  wild  beasts,  show  a  fearlessness  of  them 
that  puts  to  shame  the  courage  of  an  European  on  the  same 
point.  To  beat  through  thick  jungle,  containing  a  tiger  that 
had  just  struck  down  one  of  their  party,  some  with  only  sticks 
in  their  hands,  is  what  no  European  will  do  excepting  on 
compulsion. 

"  I  put  the  question  to  my  havaldar,  a  man  capable  of  answer- 
ing it  from  personal  courage  and  experience  in  such  matters, 
whether  the  buiFalo  charges  blindly  forward  in  his  first  direc- 

'  See  the  sketch  entitled  "The  Spring-bow,"  Vol.  ii.  p.  73. 

K  2 


132  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

tion,  80  as  to  allow  of  a  person's  escaping  by  stepping  aside  ? 
'  Oh  no,'  he  said,  '  the  buffalo  will  turn  with  you.' 

"  The  two  that  charged  me  were  making  a  rush  to  escape, 
and  were  going  along  a  narrow  footpath ;  by  jumping  aside,  I 
disappeared  into  the  jungle  growing  below  me  on  the  face  of 
the  hill. 

"  It  is  morning,  and  I  am  drinking  tea  ;  and  an  instant  ago  the 
shock  of  an  earthquake  shook  the  table  at  which  I  am  sitting, 
making  my  teacup  and  saucer  rattle  together  like  castanets. 
I  was  in  the  act  of  putting  my  pen  on  the  paper  when  our  hill 
began  shaking,  and  then  you  would  have  had  letters  contorted 
by  earthquake, — rather  an  out-of-the-way  fact  in  familiar  corres- 
pondence. I  hope  we  are  not  to  have  three  shocks  complete,  and 
according  to  the  degrees  of  comparison  ;  though  such  is  said  to 
be  the  custom  of  our  Mother  Earth.  Far  be  it  from  me,  who 
hold  her  in  mythological  reverence,  to  wish  that  she  should 
forego  any  pet  habits  on  my  account ;  the  only  condition  I  pray 
for  is  the  standing  of  the  house  I  am  in. 

"  The  tiger-killers  (bhagmar)  are  a  strange  set  of  people ;  the 
trade,  like  all  trades  in  this  country,  descends  from  father  to 
son,  and  is,  as  far  as  I  can  compute,  a  very  indifferent  liveli- 
hood. Say  that  a  set  of  men  get  twenty  heads  during  the  year 
(this  is  nearly  twice  the  common  average),  the  reward  for  this 
number  is  one  hundred  rupees  ;  which,  divided  by  twelve  and 
seven,  gives  each  individual  of  the  party  one  rupee  three  anas 
a  month.  Seven  were  in  the  set  to  which  my  informant 
belonged,  including,  probably,  three  women.  Two  of  the  tiger- 
killers  lately  arrived  have  good  marks  from  the  gentlemen 
whose  heads  they  traffic  in  ;  according  to  them  all  there  is  only 
one  portion  of  their  labours  attended  with  danger,  and  that  is, 
when  seeking  the  tiger  after  the  bow  has  been  sprung.  If  the 
arrow  lodges  fairly  in  the  side,  the  animal  is  found  dead  ; 
should  he  be  less  fully  hit,  he  is  found,  as  they  call  it,  in  a  state 
-of  drunkenness.  They  then  approach  him  with  hand-bows  to 
finish  him.  This  is  the  dangerous  portion  of  their  work.  From 
the  marks  on  one  of  these  men,  I  should  think  the  tiger  must 
have  been  in  a  state  of  great  weakness  when  he  seized  him. 


THE    BAGHMARS.  133 

The  different  places  in  which  he  is  scored  show  him  to  have 
been  feirly  in  the  tiger's  grip,  and  yet  the  amount  of  injury  was 
small.  The  other  has  suffered  more  severely  ;  and  three  men, 
they  say,  were  killed  outright  during  this  year. 

"  This  is  the  trade  that  men  will  take  up  for  the  chance  of  half 
an  ana  a  day  !  I  do  not  think  the  Sadr  '  Adalat  people  would  enter 
the  bhagmar  department  if  their  salaries  were  to  be  doubled. 
This  shows  that  the  work  of  the  service  could  be  done  for  four 
anas  a  day,  being  three  and  a  half  anas  for  the  respectability. 
'  Two  bobs  for  the  vartue,  and  a  sice  for  the  laming !' 

"  For  the  first  time,  I  have  visited  the  burying-ground.  Your 
friend's  place  of  rest  is  more  remarkable  than  solemn.  A  small 
circular  enclosure  of  upright  slips  of  bamboo,  precisely  similar 
to  the  defence  of  a  young  tree,  would  seem  to  indicate  to  the 
traveller,  the  existence  in  these  savage  regions  of  a  race  believ- 
ing in  a  vegetable  resurrection." 


CHAPTER    XLVIII. 


THE  FAMINE  AT  KANAUJ. 

"health  alone  is  equal  to  a  thousand  blessings'." 

Partiality  of  the  Natives  for  English  Guns — Solitary  Confinement — The  Nawab 
Hakim  Menhdi — Bad  Omens — A  Slight  Mistake — Bhusa — The  Padshah 
Begam  and  Moona-jah — The  Baiza  Ba'i  visits  a  Steamer — Arrival  of  Lord 
Auckland — Visit  of  the  Governor-General  and  the  Hon.  the  Misses  Eden  to 
her  Highness  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior — A  March  up  the  Country — The 
Camp  at  Fathipiir— The  Line  of  March — Death  of  the  Nawab  Hakim 
Menhdi — The  Heir-apparent  of  Oude  gives  a  Breakfast  to  the  Governor- 
General — H,  R.  H.  Prince  Henry  of  Orange  and  the  Misses  Eden  visit 
Lucnow — Resignation  of  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe — Choblpur — Thieves — Urowl 
— The  Famine — The  Pilgrim  buys  a  Cocky-olli  Bird — Merunkee  Sara'e — 
Ancient  Hindu  Ruin  at  Kanauj — Famine  in  the  Bazar — Interment  of  Ma- 
hadeo  and  Parbati — The  Legend  of  Kanauj. 

1837,  Aug. — ^A  gentleman  who  had  been  paying  us  a  visit 
quitted  us  for  Agra  just  before  his  baggage  boat  arrived,  in 
which  were  two  immense  German  dogs,  one  striped  like  a  tiger, 
— most  warlike  animals  ;  they  eyed  me  fiercely,  and  pulled  im- 
patiently on  their  chains  when  brought  into  the  verandah ;  they 
will  be  good  guards  at  night,  but  their  arrival  at  Agra  will  be 
a  little  too  late  ; — like  locking  the  door  when  the  steed  has  been 

stolen.     Mr.  H went  out  to  dinner,  and  did  not  return 

home  that  night :  some  thieves  took  out  a  pane  of  glass,  opened 
the  door,  carried  off  his  two  gun-cases  and  a  writing-desk.  A 
short  distance  from  the  house  they  broke  open  the  cases,  which 
they  threw  away,  and  made  off  with  the  guns,  a  gold  watch, 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  117. 


A    SLIGHT    MISTAKE.  135 

three  seals,  and  a  guard-chain.  No  traces  have  been  discovered 
of  the  thieves,  and  our  friend  must  resign  himself  to  the  loss, 
with  the  comfort  of  remembering  that  I  told  him  several  times 
he  would  lose  his  guns,  unless  he  locked  them  up  in  some  heavy, 
unwieldy  chest,  that  could  not  readily  be  carried  away. 

Solitary  confinement  in  the  Fort  of  Allahabad,  a  punishment 
inflicted  on  rebellious  sipahls,  is  dreaded  by  them  more  than  any 
other.  The  cells  for  prisoners  in  the  Fort  of  Chunar  are  really 
solitary  ;  you  can  neither  see  out  of  the  window  nor  hear  the 
sound  of  a  human  voice ;  both  of  which  they  contrive  to  do  at 
Allahabad ;  therefore  Chunar  is  held  in  all  due  horror. 

Sept. — The  fever,  which,  Uke  the  plague,  carried  off"  its 
thousands  at  Palee,  has  disappeared  ;  the  cordons  are  removed, 
the  alarm  is  at  an  end,  the  letters  are  no  longer  fumigated,  and 
the  fear  of  the  plague  has  vanished  from  before  us. 

On  the  22nd  of  July,  this  year,  the  river  had  only  risen  eight 
feet  above  the  usual  mark  ;  last  year,  at  the  same  period,  late  as 
the  rains  were  in  setting  in,  the  Jumna  had  risen  twenty-four 
feet  above  the  usual  level ;  showing  the  great  deficiency  of  rain 
this  season. 

24th — The  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi  has  been  re-appointed 
minister  in  Oude ;  how  happy  the  old  man  must  be  !  He  has 
been  Uving  at  Fathigar,  pining  for  a  restoration  to  the  honours 
at  Lucnow.  The  Nawab  quitted  for  Oude  ;  on  the  first  day  of 
his  march,  the  horse  that  carried  his  nakaras  (state  kettle-drums) 
fell  down  and  died,  and  one  of  his  cannon  was  upset ; — both  most 
unlucky  omens.  The  Camp  and  the  Minister  were  in  dismay  ! 
To  us  it  is  laughable,  to  the  natives  a  matter  of  distress.  The 
right  to  beat  kettle-drums,  and  to  have  them  carried  before  you, 
is  only  allowed  to  great  personages.  Therefore  the  omen  was 
fearful ;  it  will  be  reported  at  Lucnow,  will  reach  the  ears  of  the 
King,  and  perhaps  produce  a  bad  effect  on  his  mind  ; — the  natives 
are  so  superstitious. 

The  Maharaj  of  GwaHor,  the  Baiza  Bii'i's  adopted  son,  who 
drove  her  out  of  the  kingdom,  announced  a  few  days  ago  that  a 
son  and  heir  was  born  unto  him.  The  Resident  communicated 
the  happy  news  to  the  Government ;  illuminations  took  place, 


136  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

guns  were  fired,  every  honour  paid  to  the  young  heir  of  the 
throne  of  Gwalior.  The  Ba'i  sent  her  grand-daughter  on  an 
elephant,  in  an  amarl  (a  canopied  seat) ,  attended  by  her  followers 
on  horseback,  to  do  pooja  in  the  Ganges,  and  to  give  large 
presents  to  the  Brahmans.  As  the  Gaja  Riija  passed  along  the 
road,  handfuls  of  rupees  were  scattered  to  the  crowd  below  from 
the  seat  on  the  elephant.  Six  days  after  the  announcement  of 
the  birth  of  a  son,  the  King  sent  for  the  Resident,  and,  looking 
very  sheepish,  was  obliged  to  confess  the  son  was  a  daughter ! 
The  Resident  was  much  annoyed  that  his  beard  had  been  laughed 
at ;  and,  in  all  probability,  the  King  had  been  deceived  by  the 
women  in  the  zenana :  perhaps  a  son  had  really  been  bom,  and 
having  died,  a  girl  had  been  substituted ; — the  only  child  pro- 
curable, perhaps,  at  the  moment,  or  approved  of  by  the  mother. 
A  zenana  is  the  very  birth-place  of  intrigue. 

30th. — I  am  busy  with  preparations  for  a  march  ;  perhaps,  in 
my  rambles,  I  shall  visit  Lucnow,  see  the  new  King,  and  my  old 
friend  the  Nawiib  Hakim  Menhdl  in  all  his  glory.  I  should  like 
very  much  to  visit  the  zenana,  for,  although  the  King  be  about 
seventy,  there  is  no  reason  why  he  may  not  have  a  large  zenana, 
wives  of  all  sorts  and  kinds, — "  the  black,  the  blue,  the  brown, 
the  fair," — for  purposes  of  state  and  show. 

Oct.  3rd. — At  this  moment  a  large  fire  is  blazing  away,  and 
throwing  up  volumes  of  smoke  at  no  great  distance  from  our 
house.  In  this  country  they  chop  up  straw  very  finely,  as  food 
for  bullocks ;  an  Hindu  having  collected  a  large  quantity  of 
bhiisa  (this  chopped  straw) ,  has  of  late  been  seUing  it  at  a  very 
high  price  ;  in  consequence,  some  one  has  set  fire  to  the  heap, 
and  has  destroyed  some  hundred  mims.  My  khansaman,  looking 
at  it,  said  very  quietly,  "  He  has  of  late  sold  his  bhusii  at  an 
unfairly  high  price,  therefore  they  have  secretly  set  it  on  fire  ; 
of  course  they  would,  it  is  the  custom."  The  natives  have 
curious  ideas  with  respect  to  justice. 

'  I2th. — Called  on  the  Baiza  Ba'I ; — really,  the  most  agreeable 
visits  I  pay  are  to  the  Mahratta  Camp. 

1 7th. — The  Padshah  Begam  and  Moona-jah,  the  young  Prince 
of   Oude,   whom  she  attempted  to  put  on  the   throne,  have 


ARRIVAL    OF    LORD    AUCKLAND.  137 

amved  at  Allahabad,  state  prisoners;  they  remained  a  day  or 
two,  their  tents  surrounded  by  double  guards  night  and  day. 
The  Begam  wished  to  remain  here,  but  she  was  forced  to  march 
at  last,  and  has  proceeded  to  Chunar,  where  she  is  to  remain  a 
prisoner  of  state. 

The  preparations  for  a  march  up  the  country  to  visit  my 
friends  are  nearly  completed ;  my  new  tents  have  just  arrived 
from  Cawnpore,  they  are  being  pitched  and  examined,  that  I 
may  have  no  trouble  en  route. 

The  Camp  going  to  meet  Lord  Auckland  at  Benares  passed 
through  Allahabad  yesterday ;  two  hundred  and  fifty  elephants, 
seven  hundred  camels,  &c., — a  beautiful  sight;  they  encamped 
very  near  our  house,  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna. 

Nov.  23rd. — The  Biiiza  Ba'i  came  down  to  go  on  board  the 
steamer,  which  she  was  anxious  to  see.  The  vessel  was  drawn 
up  to  the  ghat,  and  enclosed  with  kanats  (the  canvas  walls  of 
tents) .  A  large  party  of  English  ladies  attended  the  Ba'i,  and 
several  Enghsh  gentlemen  went  on  board  with  Appa  Sahib,  after 
the  return  of  her  Highness,  who  appeared  greatly  pleased. 

Dec.  ]st. — ^The  Governor-General  Lord  Auckland,  the  Hon. 
the  Misses  Eden,  and  Captain  Osborne,  arrived  at  Allahabad 
with  all  their  immense  encampment.  The  gentlemen  of  the 
Civil  Service  and  the  military  paid  their  respects.  Instead  of 
receiving  morning  visits,  the  Misses  Eden  received  visitors  in 
the  evening,  transforming  a  formal  morning  call  into  a  pleasant 
party, — a  relief  to  the  visitors  and  the  visited. 

7th. — I  made  my  salam  to  Miss  Eden  at  her  tents ;  she  told 
me  she  was  going  to  visit  her  Highness  the  Baiza  Ba'i  with  the 
Governor-General,  asked  me  to  accompany  her,  and  to  act  as 
interpreter,  to  which  I  consented  with  pleasure. 

8th. — The  Gaja  Raja  Sahib  went  on  an  elephant  in  state,  to 
bring  the  Misses  Eden  to  call  on  the  Baiza  Ba'i.  They  arrived 
with  Lord  Auckland  in  all  due  form :  his  Lordship  and  Appa 
Sahib  sat  in  the  outer  room,  and  conversed  with  her  Highness 
through  the  parda.  I  introduced  the  Misses  Eden  to  the  Baiza 
Ba'i  and  her  grand-daughter,  with  whom  they  appeared  pleased 
and  interested.     Twenty-two  trays,  containing  pairs  of  shawls. 


138  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

pieces  of  cloth  of  gold,  fine  Dacca  muslin,  and  jewels,  were 
presented  to  the  Governor-General ;  and  fifteen  trays,  filled  in  a 
similar  manner,  to  each  of  the  Misses  Eden.  They  bowed  to 
the  presents  when  they  were  laid  before  them,  after  which  the 
trays  were  carried  off,  and  placed  in  the  treasury  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Government. 

I5th. — I  quitted  Allahabad  on  my  road  to  the  Hills,  under 

the  escort  of  our  friend  Mr.  F ,  near  whose  tents  my  own 

were  to  be  pitched :  the  countiy  was  swarming  with  robbers ; 
they  follow  the  camp  of  the  Governor- General,  wherever  it 
may  be. 

1 6  th. — Arrived  at  my  tents  at  Fathlpur ;  the  scene  in  the 
camp  was  very  picturesque ;  the  troops  were  drawn  out 
before  the  tents  of  the  Governor- General,  and  all  was  state 
and  form,  for  the  reception  of  the  Chiefs  of  Bandelkhand ; 
the  guns  were  firing  salutes  ;  it  was  an  animated  and  beautiful 
scene. 

I8th. — I  mounted  my  black  horse,  and  rode  at  daybreak  with 
some  friends.  From  the  moment  we  left  our  tents,  we  were 
passing,  during  the  whole  march,  by  such  numbers  of  elephants, 
so  many  strings  of  camels,  so  many  horses  and  carts,  and  so 
many  carriages  of  all  sorts,  attendant  on  the  troops,  and  the 
artillery  of  the  Governor-General  and  his  suite,  that  the  whole 
line  of  march,  from  the  beginning  to  the  end,  was  one  mass  of 
living  beings.  My  tents  were  pitched  near  the  guns  of  the 
artillery,  outside  the  camp  at  Mulwah :  a  Raja  came  to  call  on 
Lord  Auckland,  a  salute  was  fired  ;  my  horses,  being  so  near, 
became  alarmed ;  the  grey  broke  from  his  ropes,  fell  on  the 
pegs  to  which  he  was  picketed,  and  lamed  himself;  another 
broke  loose  ;  a  camel  lamed  himself,  and  we  had  some  difficulty 
in  quieting  the  frightened  animals. 

19th. — I  was  unwell  from  over-fatigue,  most  uncomfortable. 
In  the  evening  I  roused  myself  to  dine  with  Lord  Auckland  to 
meet  Prince  Henry  of  Orange.  His  Royal  Highness  entered 
the  navy  at  eight  years  of  age,  and  has  been  in  the  service  ten 
years,  in  the  "  Bellona  "  frigate.  Accompanied  by  his  captain, 
he  came  up  dak  to  spend  a  few  days  with  Lord  Auckland. 


DEATH    OF    THE    NAWAB    HAKIM    MENHDI.  139 

The  Prince  is  a  tall,  slight  young  man,  and,  apparently,  very 
diffident. 

21  si. — Arrived  at  Cawnpore,  and  paid  a  long  promised  visit  to 
a  relative.     As  the  Misses  Eden  were  at  home  in  the  evening, 

I  accompanied  Major  P to  pay  my  respects.     We  lost  our 

way  in  the  ravine  from  a  dense  fog :  when  we  reached  the  tents 
the  whole  station  was  assembled  there,  quadrilles  and  waltzing 
going  forward. 

25th. — On  Christmas-day  the  old  Nawilb  Hakim  Menhdi,  the 
minister  of  Oude,  of  whom  I  have  so  often  spoken,  breathed  his 
last  at  Lucnow.  His  death  was  announced  to  me  in  a  very 
original  note  from  his  nephew  and  heir,  the  General  Sahib  : — 

"  Dear  Madam, — I  have  to  inform  you  that  my  poor  uncle 
Nawiib  Moontuzim-ood-Dowlah  Bahadur  departed  this  life  at 
the  decree  and  will  of  Providence,  at  half-past  three  o'clock  a.m., 
the  day  before  yesterday,  Monday,  the  25th  inst.,  after  a  short 
illness  of  six  days  only ;  consequently  seeing  him  any  more  in 
this  world  is  all  buried  in  oblivion.  The  Begam  Sahiba  tenders 
her  kind  remembrances  to  you.  With  best  wishes,  believe  me 
to  be,  dear  Madam,  yours  very  faithfully,  UshruflF-ood-Dowla 
Ahmed  Ally  Khan  Bahadur." 

I  was  sorry  to  hear  of  the  death  of  the  Nawab.  How  soon 
it  has  followed  on  the  bad  omens  of  his  march  ! 

26th. — Received  an  invitation  to  breakfast  with  the  son  of 
the  King  of  Oude  (who  had  arrived  from  Lucnow),  to  meet  the 
Govemor-General's  party :  went  there  on  an  elephant :  an 
immense  party  were  assembled  in  a  very  fine  tent.  Shortly 
after,  breakfast  was  announced :  when  it  was  over  we  returned 
to  the  former  tent,  when  the  presents  were  brought  forth  ;  they 
consisted  of  a  fine  elephant,  with  a  howdah  on  his  back,  and 
the  whole  of  the  trappings  of  red  cloth  and  velvet  richly  em- 
broidered in  gold.  Two  fine  horses  next  appeared,  their  hous- 
ings of  velvet  and  gold;  and  the  bridles  were  studded  with 
rows  of  turquoise.  A  golden  palanquin  was  next  presented.  On 
the  ground,  in  front  of  the  party,  were  twenty-three  trays,  the 
present  to  Lord  Auckland;  they  were  filled  with  Cashmere 
shawls  in  pairs,  pieces  of  kimkhwab,  and  necklaces  of  pearls. 


140  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

emeralds,  and  diamonds.  Fifteen  trays  of  shawls  and  cloth  of 
gold,  with  fine  pieces  of  Dacca  muslin,  were  presented  to  each 
of  the  Misses  Eden  ;  two  of  the  trays  contained  two  combs  set 
in  superb  diamonds,  and  two  necklaces  of  diamonds  and  eme- 
ralds, such  as  are  hardly  ever  seen  even  in  India.  All  these 
fine  things  were  presented  and  accepted ;  they  were  then  carried 
off  and  placed  in  the  Government  treasury.  The  Government 
make  presents  of  equal  value  in  return. 

26th. — The  station  gave  a  ball  to  the  Governor-General  and 
the  Misses  Eden  ;  the  next  day  Prince  Henr}'  of  Orange,  the 
Misses  Eden,  and  Captain  Osborne,  went  over  to  Lucnow  for  a 
few  days,  leaving  Lord  Auckland  at  Cawnpore ;  they  returned 
on  the  30th,  when  the  Prince  quitted  the  party,  and  went  off 
with  the  Captain  of  "  the  Bellona"  to  visit  Agra. 

1838,  Jan.  \st. — Sir  Charles  Metcalfe,  who  had  arrived  from 
Agra,  resigned  his  power  into  Lord  Auckland's  hands,  and 
departed  for  England. 

I  am  very  comfortable,  every  thing  being  en  regie,  having  a 
double  set  of  tents,  two  horses  for  the  buggy,  two  Arabs  for 
riding,  ten  camels  to  carry  the  baggage,  and  two  bullock-carts  for 
the  women.  The  men  servants  march  with  the  camels :  every 
thing  is  required  in  duplicate.  One  tent,  with  the  people,  starts 
in  the  evening,  and  is  pitched  at  the  end  of  the  march,  and 
breakfast  is  there  ready  for  me  early  the  next  morning. 

3rd. — A  cold  day  with  a  high  wind :  my  tents  are  pitched  on 
a  dusty  plain,  without  a  blade  of  grass,  the  wind  and  dust 
careering  up  and  down.  My  little  tent  is  quite  a  pearl  in  the 
desert,  so  white  and  fresh :  small  as  it  is,  it  is  too  large  to  take 
to  the  hills,  and  I  have  this  day  written  for  two  hill  tents  and  a 
ghoont  (a  hill  pony)  to  be  bought  for  me,  that  they  may  be 
ready  on  my  arrival. 

4th. — Quitted  Chobipiir,  and  arrived  early  at  the  end  of  the 
march  ;  found  the  tent  only  half  pitched,  no  breakfast  ready ;  in 
feet,  the  servants,  leaving  every  thing  about  in  every  direction, 
had  gone  to  sleep.  The  thieves,  who  are  innumerable  all  over 
the  country,  taking  advantage  of  their  idleness,  had  carried  off 
my  dital  harp  with  the  French  blankets  and  the  pillows  from 


UROWL THE    FAMINE.  141 

my  charpal.  These  things  were  under  the  sentry,  but  he  was 
asleep  on  his  post.  The  box  was  found  in  a  field,  near  the 
tent,  but  the  dital  harp  was  gone.  I  had  always  made  a  point  of 
pitching  my  tents  near  the  great  camp,  for  the  sake  of  the  pro- 
tection it  afforded.  "It  is  dark  under  the  lamp',"  was  exem- 
plified ; — a  proverb  used  when  crimes  are  committed  near  the  seat 
of  authority.  Strict  orders  were  of  course  issued  to  my  people 
to  be  more  on  the  alert  in  future.  "When  the  wolf  has  run 
away  with  the  child  the  door  is  made  fast'."  In  the  evening  I 
dined  with  the  Governor-General,  and  was  much  gratified  with 
the  sight  of  some  of  Miss  Eden's  most  spirited  and  masterly 
sketches. 

5th. — Arrived  at  Urowl.  Here  the  famine  began  to  show 
itself  very  severely ;  I  had  heard  it  talked  about,  but  had  never 
given  it  much  thought,  had  never  brought  the  image  of  it  before 
my  mind's  eye.  No  forage  was  to  be  procured  for  the  camels 
or  bullocks,  therefore  they  went  without  it ;  it  was  not  to  be 
had  for  money,  but  gram  was  procurable,  of  which  they  had  a 
meal.  The  horses  got  gram,  but  no  grass ;  the  country  was  so 
completely  burnt  up,  scarcely  a  blade  or  rather  a  root  of  grass 
could  be  cut  up,  and  every  thing  was  exceedingly  expensive. 

6th. — At  six  A.M.,  when  I  quitted  my  tent  to  mount  my 
horse,  it  was  bitterly  cold ;  the  poor  star\'ing  wretches  had 
collected  on  the  spot  which  my  horses  had  quitted,  and  were 
picking  up  the  grains  of  gram  that  had  fallen  from  their  nose- 
bags ;  others  were  shivering  over  a  half-burned  log  of  wood  my 
people  had  lighted  during  the  night.  On  the  road  I  saw 
many  animals  dead  from  over-exertion  and  famine  ;  carts  over- 
turned ;  at  one  place  a  palanquin  gari  had  been  run  away  with, 
the  wheels  had  knocked  down  and  passed  over  two  camel 
drivers ;  one  of  the  men  was  lying  on  the  road-side  senseless 
and  dying. 

On  reaching  the  Stanhope,  which  had  been  laid  half  way  for 
me,  the  horse  gave  some  annoyance  while  being  put  into  harness  ; 
when  once  in,  away  he  went,  pulling  at  a  fearful  rate,  through 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  118.  '  Ibid.  No.  119. 


142  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

roads  half  way  up  the  leg  in  sand,  full  of  great  holes,  and  so 
crowded  with  elephants,  camels,  artillery,  cavalry,  and  infantry, 
and  all  the  camp  followers,  it  was  scarcely  possible  to  pass  through 
such  a  dense  crowd ;  and  in  many  places  it  was  impossible  to 
see  beyond  your  horse's  head  from  the  excessive  dust.  Imagine 
a  camp  of  1 1 ,000  men  all  marching  on  the  road,  and  such  a 
road! 

Away  rushed  the  horse  in  the  Stanhope,  and  had  not  the 
harness  been  strong,  and  the  reins  EngUsh,  it  would  have  been 
all  over  with  us.  I  saw  a  beautiful  Persian  kitten  on  an  Arab's 
shoulder ;  he  was  marching  with  a  long  string  of  camels  carry- 
ing grapes,  apples,  dates,  and  Tusar  cloth  for  sale  from  Cabul. 
Perched  on  each  camel  were  one  or  two  Persian  cats.  The 
pretty  tortoise-shell  kitten,  with  its  remarkably  long  hair  and 
bushy  tail,  caught  my  eye  ; — its  colours  were  so  brilliant.  The 
Arab  ran  up  to  the  Stanhope  holding  forth  the  kitten ;  we 
checked  the  impetuous  horse  for  an  instant,  and  I  seized  the 
pretty  little  creature ;  the  check  rendered  the  horse  still  more 
violent,  away  he  sprang,  and  off  he  set  at  full  speed  through 
the  encampment  which  we  had  just  reached.  The  Arab  think- 
ing I  had  purposely  stolen  his  kitten,  ran  after  the  buggy  at  full 
speed,  shouting  as  he  passed  Lord  Auckland's  tents,  "  Doha'i, 
dohii'I,  sahib  !  doha'i,  Lord  sahib ! "  "  Mercy,  mercy,  sir ! 
mercy.  Governor- General !  "  The  faster  the  horse  rushed  on, 
the  faster  followed  the  shouting  Arab,  until  on  arriving  at  my 
own  tents,  the  former  stopped  of  his  own  accord,  and  the 
breathless  Arab  came  up.  He  asked  ten  rupees  for  his  kitten, 
but  at  length,  with  well-feigned  reluctance,  accepted  five,  de- 
claring it  was  worth  twenty.  "  Who  was  ever  before  the  happy 
possessor  of  a  tortoise-shell  Persian  cat?"  The  man  departed. 
Alas  !  for  the  wickedness  of  the  world  !  Alas  !  for  the  Pilgrim ! 
She  has  bought  a  cocky-olli-bird  ! 

The  cocky-olli-bird,  although  unknown  to  naturalists  by  that 
name,  was  formerly  sold  at  Harrow  by  an  old  man  to  the  boys, 
who  were  charmed  with  the  brilliancy  of  its  plumage, — purple, 
green,  crimson,  yellow,  all  the  colours  of  the  rainbow  united  in 
this  beautiful  bird ;  nor  could  the  wily  old  fellow  import  them 


ANCIENT    HINDU    RUIN    AT    KANAUJ.  143 

fast  enough  to  supply  the  demand,  until  it  was  discovered  they 
were  painted  sparrows ! 

The  bright  burnt  sienna  colour  of  the  kitten  is  not  tortoise- 
shell,  she  has  been  dyed  with  hinna !  her  original  colour  was 
white,  with  black  spots  ;  however,  she  looks  so  pretty,  she  must 
be  fresh  dyed  when  her  hair  falls  off ;  the  hinna  is  permanent 
for  many  months.  The  poor  kitten  has  a  violent  cold,  perhaps 
the  effect  of  the  operation  of  dyeing  her  :  no  doubt,  after  having 
applied  the  pounded  menhdi,  they  wrapped  her  up  in  fresh 
castor-oil  leaves,  and  bound  her  up  in  a  handkerchief,  after  the 
fashion  in  which  a  native  dyes  his  beard.  Women  oflen  take 
cold  from  putting  hinna  on  their  feet. 

ANCIENT    HINDU    RUIN. 

My  tents  were  pitched  near  Meerunke  Sara'e :  in  the  evening, 
as  I  was  riding  into  Kanauj,  at  the  tomb  of  Bala  Pir,  I  met 

Captain  C on  an  elephant,  and  accompanied  him  to  see  the 

remains  of  a  most  ancient  Hindu  temple.  Of  all  the  ruins  I 
have  seen  this  appears  to  me  the  most  remarkable  and  the  most 
ancient :  the  pillars  are  composed  of  two  long  roughly-hewn 
stones,  placed  one  upon  the  other,  and  joined  by  a  tenon  and 
mortise ;  no  cement  of  any  sort  appears  to  have  been  used. 
The  style  of  the  building  is  most  primitive,  and  there  is  a  little 
carving — and  but  a  little — on  some  of  the  stones  ;  the  structure 
is  rapidly  falling  into  decay.  I  regret  exceedingly  I  cannot 
remember  the  marvellous  stories  that  were  related  to  me  con- 
nected with  this  ruin  and  its  inhabitants. 

"  For  they  were  dead  and  buried  and  embalm'd, 
Ere  Romulus  and  Remus  had  been  suckled  : 
Antiquity  appears  to  have  begun 
Long  after  their  primaeval  race  was  run." 

On  my  return  to  the  tents,  my  ayha  complained  bitterly  of 
the  annoyance  she  had  experienced  on  the  long  march  of  thirteen 
miles  and  a  half,  over  bad  roads ;  she  had  been  upset  in  her 
baill,  a  native  carriage,  drawn  by  two  bullocks,  and  her  serenity 
was  sadly  discomposed. 

7th. — This  day,  being  Sunday,  was  a  halt, — a  great  refreshment 


144  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

after  toil ;  and  Divine  Service  was  performed  in  the  tent  of  the 
Governor-General;  after  which,  at  3  p.m.,  I  went,  on  an 
elephant,  to  see  two  most  ancient  and  curious  specimens  of 
Hindu  sculpture,  the  figures  of  Ram  and  Lutchman,  which  are 
about  five  feet  in  height,  carved  on  separate  stones,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  whole  heaven  of  gods  and  goddesses :  the  stones 
themselves,  which  are  six  or  seven  feet  high,  are  completely 
covered  with  numerous  images ;  and  a  devi  (goddess) ,  rather 
smaller,  is  on  one  side. 

Passing  through  the  bazar  at  Kanauj  was  a  fearful  thing. 
There  lay  the  skeleton  of  a  woman  who  had  died  of  famine  ; 
the  whole  of  her  clothes  had  been  stolen  by  the  famished 
wretches  around,  the  pewter  rings  were  still  in  her  ears,  but  not 
a  rag  was  left  on  the  bones  that  were  starting  through  the  black 
and  shrivelled  skin  ;  the  agony  on  the  countenance  of  the  corpse 
was  terrible.  Next  to  her  a  poor  woman,  unable  to  rise,  lifted 
up  her  skinny  arm,  and  moaned  for  food.  The  unhappy 
women,  with  their  babies  in  their  arms,  pressing  them  to  their 
bony  breasts,  made  me  shudder.  Miserable  boys,  absolutely 
living  skeletons,  pursued  the  elephant,  imploring  for  bread : 
poor  wretches,  T  had  but  little  money  with  me,  and  could  give 
them  only  that  little  and  my  tears :  I  cannot  write  about  the 
scene  without  weeping,  it  was  so  horrible,  and  made  me  very 
sick.  Six  people  died  of  starvation  in  the  bazar  to-day.  Lord 
Auckland  daily  feeds  all  the  poor  who  come  for  food,  and  gives 
them  blankets ;  five  or  six  hundred  are  fed  daily ; — but  what 
avails  it  in  a  famine  like  this  ?  it  is  merciful  cruelty,  and  only 
adds  a  few  more  days  to  their  sufferings  ;  better  to  die  at  once, 
better  to  end  such  intolerable  and  hopeless  misery  :  these  people 
are  not  the  beggars,  but  the  tillers  of  the  soil.  When  I  was 
last  at  Kanauj  the  place  was  so  beautiful,  so  luxuriant  in  vege- 
tation,— the  bright  green  trees,  the  river  winding  through  low 
fields  of  the  richest  pasture :  those  fields  are  all  bare,  not  a 
blade  of  grass.  The  wretched  inhabitants  tear  off  the  bark  of 
the  wild  fig  tree  (goolfer),  and  pound  it  into  food  ;  in  the  course 
of  four  or  five  days  their  bodies  swell,  and  they  die  in  agonies. 
The  cultivators  sit  on  the  side  of  their  fields,  and,  pointing  to 
their  naked  bodies,  cry,  "  I  am  dying  of  hunger."     Some  pick 


FAMINE    IN    THE    BAZAR.  145 

out  the  roots  of  the  bunches  of  coarse  grass,  and  chew  them. 
The  people  have  become  desperate  ;  sometimes,  when  they  see  a 
sipahi  eating  they  rush  upon  him  to  take  his  food ;  sometimes 
they  fall  one  over  the  other  as  they  rush  for  it,  and  having 
fallen,  being  too  weak  to  rise,  they  die  on  the  spot,  blessed  in 
finding  the  termination  of  their  sufferings.  The  very  locusts 
appear  to  have  felt  the  famine ;  you  see  the  wings  here  and 
there  on  the  ground,  and  now  and  then  a  weak  locust  pitches 
on  a  camel.  Every  tree  has  been  stripped  of  its  leaves  for  food 
for  animals.  The  inhabitants  of  Kanauj,  about  a  lakh  of 
people,  have  fled  to  Oogein  and  to  Saugar.  The  place  will  be  a 
desert ;  none  will  remain  but  the  grain  merchants,  who  fatten 
on  the  surrounding  misery.  There  is  no  hope  of  rain  for  five 
months ;  by  that  time  the  torments  of  these  poor  wretches  will 
have  ended  in  death ; — and  this  place  is  the  one  I  so  much 
admired  from  the  river,  with  its  rich  fields,  and  its  high  land 
covered  with  fine  trees  and  ruins  ! 

I  returned  to  the  ancient  Hindu  building  that  had  so  much 
interested  me,  to  sketch  it  at  leisure,  and  was  thus  employed, 
when  I  was  surrounded  by  numbers  of  the  stai-ved  and  wretched 
villagers.  I  performed  my  task  as  quickly  as  possible,  and 
whatever  errors  there  may  be  in  the  performance,  must  be 
attributed  to  the  painful  scene  by  which  I  was  surrounded  ; 
some  of  the  poor  people  flung  themselves  on  the  ground  before 
me,  attempting  to  perform  pa-bos,  that  is,  kissing  the  feet ; 
wildly,  frantically,  and  with  tears  imploring  for  food ;  their 
skeleton  forms  hideously  bearing  proof  of  starvation ;  the  very 
remembrance  makes  me  shudder.  I  quitted  the  ruin,  and 
returned  to  my  tents.  To-morrow  we  quit  Kanauj,  thank 
God !  It  is  dreadful  to  witness  and  to  be  unable  to  relieve  such 
suffering. 

I  picked  up  a  curious  piece  of  ancient  sculpture,  Mahadeo, 
with  Piirvati  in  the  centre,  and  a  devi  on  each  side,  which  1 
brought  to  my  tent  on  the  elephant.  Considering  it  too  heavy 
to  carry  about  on  the  march,  we  buried  it  at  night  under  a 
peepul  tree,  and  shall  take  it  away  on  our  return  home,  if  it  will 
please  to  remain  there. 

VOL.  II.  L 


146  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

At  this  place  I  learned  the  following  legend.  In  the  olden 
time,  Kanauj  was  a  great  city.  There  were  giants  in  those 
days,  men  of  enormous  stature,  who  dwelt  at  Kanauj,  and  with 
three  steps  could  accomplish  the  distance  hence  to  Fathigarh. 
En  passant,  be  it  remarked,  it  took  the  feeble  mortals  in  the 
camp  of  the  Governor-General  three  long  marches,  during 
three  long  days,  to  pass  over  the  same  ground.  The  women 
were  also  very  powerful ;  on  brushing  their  houses  of  a  morning, 
it  was  their  custom  to  pitch  the  dirt  a  stone's  throw  from  the 
door.  Now,  the  women  being  as  strong  as  the  men,  the  dirt 
was  thrown  as  far  as  Fathigarh  in  a  heap ;  and  on  the  rising 
ground  produced  by  these  dirt-throwing  damsels  was  afterwards 
erected  the  Fort  of  Fathigarh. 


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CHAPTER    XLTX. 


THE  HINDU  TRIAD. 

The  330,000,000  Gods  of  the  Hindu  Pantheon  —  The  Janeo  —  Brumhu — 
The  Trinity — Brahma — Vishnu — Shivu — The  Ten  Avatars — The  Fish — 
The  Tortoise — The  Boar — The  Man-lion  — Vamana  the  Dwarf — Parashu- 
Rama — Rama-Chandra — Bala-Rama — Booddhii — Kalkl  — Krishnii — Radha 
— Rukmeni  —  Jaganna'th  —  Kama-deva  —  Mahadeo  —  Parvati — Ganesh  — 
Kartikeya  —  Lachhmi — Saraswati  —  Durga  —  Sati  — The  Puranas  —  The 
Mundane  Egg  of  the  Hindus — The  Vedas — Ascension  of  the  God  Buddha. 

My  journal  is  a  constant  source  of  pleasure ;  it  not  only  amuses 
me  to  record  passing  events,  but  in  writing  it  I  perform  a  pro- 
mise given  ere  I  quitted  England.  Letters  from  home  assure 
me  of  the  deUght  with  which  it  is  received,  of  the  pleasure  with 
which  they  follow  me  through  my  wanderings,  and  of  the 
interest  they  feel  in  all  those  scenes  that  pass  before  me.  The 
religion  of  the  Hindus,  who  are  perhaps  the  most  extraordinary 
people  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  is  to  my  friends  as  interesting  as 
to  me  ;  they  wish  for  more  information  on  the  subject,  therefore, 
however  difficult  the  task,  it  must  be  performed.  Performed ! — 
"  Aye,  there's  the  rub,"  but  how?  shall  I  send  them,  pour  com- 
mencer  au  commencement,  a  catalogue  of  the  deities  in  the  Hindii 
Pantheon,  amounting  to  three  hundred  and  thirty  millions  of 
gods  and  goddesses?  330,000,000,  "  Taintis  karor  de'ota  !  "— 
The  nomenclature  would  be  somewhat  difficult. 

Shall  I  send  them  the  names  of  the  three  hundred  gods  which 
are  interwoven  in  silk  and  gold  on  the  jando  I  wear  around  my 
neck,  to  which  is  appended  the  key  of  my  cabinet?     I  have 

L  2 


148  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PIF.GRIM. 

three  of  these  sacred  jandos,  purchased  at  Benares ;  unlike  the 
Brahmanical  thread,  which  bears  the  same  name,  but  which  is 
merely  thread  tightly  twisted,  these  janeos  are  thick  strong 
ribbons  made  of  red,  black,  yellow,  and  white  silk,  interwoven 
in  which  are  the  names  of  the  gods.  They  are  worn  over  the 
right  shoulder  and  under  the  left  arm  on  particular  days  of 
pfija,  and  are  esteemed  very  holy.  On  one  in  my  possession, 
formed  of  red  and  different  coloured  silk,  the  names  of  three 
hundred  of  the  gods  are  interwoven ;  the  letters  are  in  the 
Sanscrit  character ;  the  breadth  of  the  band  one  inch.  On  a 
second,  formed  of  black  and  coloured  silk,  and  rather  narrower, 
at  intervals  in  several  places  on  the  sacred  band  is  woven  in  the 
same  character,  "  Sri  Radha  Krishn."  The  third  is  still  nar- 
rower, and  similarly  ornamented.  The  jando  is  considered  to 
possess  many  virtues :  some  that  I  saw  at  Benares  were  from 
two  to  three  inches  in  breadth,  of  rich  silk,  and  the  names  inter- 
woven in  gold  and  silver  thread  ;  they  were  handsome  and  very 
expensive. 

In  my  youthful  days  I  devoted  much  time  to  drawing  out  the 
pedigree  of  my  own  family,  a  task  that  to  me  was  one  of 
pleasure,  on  revient  toujours  a  ses  premiers  amours ;  in  lieu  of  a 
dry  catalogue  of  the  three  hundred  and  thirty  millions  of  Hindu 
deities,  I  will  form  a  short  pedigree,  if  such  a  term  be  appli- 
cable to  it,  to  assist  my  own  memory,  and  for  the  amusement 
and  edification  of  the  beloved  one  to  whom  this  my  journal  is 
dedicated. 

BRUMHU. 

The  Hindus  worship  God  in  unity,  and  express  their  concep- 
tions of  the  Divine  Being  and  his  attributes  in  the  most  awful 
and  sublime  terms.  God,  thus  adored,  is  called  Briimhu,  "  One 
Brumhii  without  a  second,"  the  one  eternal  mind,  the  self- 
existent,  incomprehensible  spirit,  the  all-pervading,  the  divine 
cause  and  essence  of  the  world,  from  which  all  things  are 
supposed  to  proceed,  and  to  which  they  return ;  the  spirit,  the 
soul  of  the  universe.  Amongst  the  Hindus  the  ignorant  address 
themselves  to  idols  fashioned  by  the  hand  of  man;  the  sage 
worships  God  in   spirit.     Of  that   infinite,   incomprehensible, 


BRAHMA,  THE  CREATOR.  149 

self-existent  spirit,  no  representation  is  made :  to  his  direct  and 
immediate  honour  no  temples  rise ;  nor  dare  an  Hindu  address 
to  him  the  effusions  of  his  soul,  otherwise  than  by  the  mediation 
of  a  personified  attribute,  or  through  the  intervention  of  a 
priest ;  who  will  teach  him  that  gifts,  prostration,  and  sacri- 
fice, are  good,  because  they  are  pleasing  to  the  gods  ;  not  as  an 
unsophisticated  heart  must  feel,  that  piety  and  benevolence  are 
pleasing  to  God  because  they  are  good.  But  although  the 
Hindus  are  taught  to  address  their  vows  to  idols  and  saints, 
these  are  still  but  types  and  personifications  of  the  deity,  who  is 
too  awful  to  be  contemplated,  and  too  incomprehensible  to  be 
described.  The  Hindu  erects  no  altar  to  Briimhu  "Of him, 
whose  glory  is  so  great,  there  is  no  image"  {Veda),  and  we  must 
proceed  to  the  consideration  of  the  personified  attributes  of  that 
invisible, incomprehensible  Being,  "which  illumines  all,  delights 
all,  whence  all  proceeded ;  that  by  which  they  live  when  bom, 
and  that  to  which  all  must  return"   {Veda). 

Briimhii,  the  one  god  without  a  second,  became  a  trinity,  and 
the  three  emanations  or  parts  of  one  Brumhii,  are  Brahma, 
Vishnii,  and  Shivu.  The  first  presided  over  Creation,  the 
second  over  Preservation,  and  the  third  over  Destruction.  The 
three  principal  goddesses  are,  Durga,  Lachhml,  and  Sa- 
ras watl. 

BRAHMA,    THE    CREATOR. 

In  mythology,  Brahma  is  the  first  of  the  Hindu  Triad,  the  three 
great  personified  attributes  of  Briimhii,  or  the  Supreme  Being  ; 
but  his  name  is  not  so  often  heard  of  in  India  as  either  of  the 
other  two  great  powers  of  Preservation  and  Destruction.  He  is 
called  the  first  of  the  gods,  the  framer  of  the  universe.  From 
his  mouth,  arm,  thigh,  and  foot,  proceeded  severally  the  priest, 
the  warrior,  the  trader,  and  the  labourer ;  these,  by  successive 
reproduction,  people  the  earth :  the  sun  sprung  from  his  eye, 
and  the  moon  from  his  mind. 

Brahma  is  usually  represented  with  four  faces,  said  to  repre- 
sent the  four  quarters  of  his  own  work ;  and  said,  sometimes,  to 
refer  to  a  supposed  number  of  elements  of  which  he  composed 


150  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM, 

it;  and  to  the  sacred  Vedas,  one  of  which  issued  from  each 
mouth.  Red  is  the  colour  supposed  to  be  peculiar  to  the  crea- 
tive power :  we  often  see  pictures  of  Brahma  of  that  colour ; 
which  also  represents  fire,  and  its  type  the  sun.  Images  are 
made  representing  Brahma,  but  none  of  Briimhii,  the  one 
eternal  God. 

Briimhu,  or  the  Supreme  One,  say  the  Brahmans,  has  been 
pleased  to  manifest  himself  in  a  variety  of  ways  from  age  to 
age  in  all  parts  of  the  habitable  world.  When  he  acts  imme- 
diately, without  assuming  a  shape,  or  sending  forth  a  new 
emanation,  or  when  a  divine  sound  is  heard  from  the  sky,  that 
manifestation  of  himself  is  called  acasavani,  or  an  ethereal  voice : 
when  the  sound  proceeds  from  a  meteor  or  a  flame,  it  is  said  to 
be  agnipuri,  or  formed  of  fire  :  but  an  avatara  is  a  descent  of  the 
deity  in  the  shape  of  a  mortal ;  and  an  avantara  is  a  similar 
incarnation  of  an  inferior  kind,  intended  to  answer  some  purpose 
of  less  moment.  The  Supreme  Being,  and  the  celestial  emana- 
tions from  him,  are  niracara,  or  bodiless;  in  which  state  they 
must  be  invisible  to  mortals  ;  but  when  they  are  pratyacsha,  or 
obvious  to  the  sight,  they  become  sacara,  or  embodied,  and 
expressive  of  the  divine  attributes,  as  Krishnu  revealed  himself 
to  Arjun,  or  in  a  human  form,  which  Krishnu  usually  bore ;  and 
in  that  mode  of  appearing  the  deities  are  generally  supposed  to 
be  born  of  a  woman,  but  without  any  carnal  intercourse.  Those 
who"^  follow  the  Purva  Mimansa,  or  the  philosophy  of  Jamini, 
admit  no  such  incarnations  of  deities ;  but  insist  that  the 
devas  (gods)  were  mere  mortals,  whom  the  Supreme  Being  was 
pleased  to  endow  with  qualities  approaching  to  his  own  attributes  : 
and  the  Hindus  in  general  perform  acts  of  worship  to  some  of 
their  ancient  monarchs  and  sages,  who  were  deified  in  conse- 
quence of  their  eminent  virtues. 

All  the  principal,  and  several  of  the  secondary  deities,  or 
incarnations  of  the  principal,  have  wives  assigned  them,  who  are 
called  sacti ;  and,  except  in  sex,  exactly  represent  their  respective 
lords,  being  their  energy  or  active  power,  the  executors  of  their 
divine  will.  The  sacti  of  Brahma  is  Saraswati,  the  goddess  of 
harmony  and  the  arts. 


VISHNU,    THE    PRESERVER.  151 

Many  deities  have  vehicles  or  vahans  allotted  to  them :  that 
of  Brahma  and  of  his  sacti  is  the  swan  or  goose,  called  hanasa; 
but  he  is  not  so  frequently  seen  mounted  on  it,  as  other  deities 
are  on  theirs  :  he  is  represented  with  his  swan  or  goose  in  the 
cave  of  Elephanta.  Saraswati,  the  goddess  of  learning,  is  some- 
times represented  as  the  daughter  of  Brahma,  and  wife  of 
Vishnoo ;  and  as  the  latter  I  have  placed  her  in  the  annexed 
plate. 

Brahma  is  represented  as  a  man  with  four  faces,  of  a  gold 
colour,  dressed  in  white  garments,  riding  on  a  goose  ;  in  one 
hand  he  holds  a  stick,  and  in  another  a  kumunduloo  or  alms- 
dish.     He  is  never  adopted  as  a  guardian  deity. 

VISHNU,    THE    PRESERVER. 

Vishnu  is  the  second  person  in  the  Hindu  triad ;  he  is 
a  personification  of  the  preserving  power,  and  has  on  the 
whole  a  greater  number  of  adorers  than  any  other  deity  or 
attribute. 

I  have  a  brazen  image  representing  Vishnu  reposing  on  a 
serpent  with  seven  heads  ;  perhaps  intended  to  represent  Sesha, 
the  vast  thousand-headed  serpent,  or  ananta,  as  the  serpent,  as 
well  as  Vishnu,  is  sometimes  named  ;  meaning  endless  or  infinite. 
Vishnu  is  represented  as  he  is  described  in  the  Scanda  Purana, 
asleep  in  the  bosom  of  the  waters,  when  a  lotus  arose  from  his 
body,  which  soon  reached  the  surface  of  the  flood.  Brahma 
sprung  from  the  flower,  and  looking  round  without  seeing  any 
creature  on  the  boundless  expanse,  imagined  himself  to  be  the 
first-bom.  Vishnu  denied  his  primogeniture;  they  had  an 
obstinate  battle,  which  lasted  until  Mahadeo  cut  off"  one  of 
Brahma's  five  heads,  which  settled  the  affair,  and  the  image  of 
Brahma  bears  only  four  heads.  Nothing  can  be  more  luxurious 
than  this  image,  the  god  floating  on  the  water-lily,  and  the 
serpent,  whose  outspread  heads  afford  him  shade  during  his 
repose  ;  while  two  celestial  beings,  sitting  at  his  feet,  shampoo 
him  during  his  slumber.  The  one  is  his  sacti,  Lachhml,  the 
goddess  of  beauty,  who  was  produced  with  the  chowda  ratny, 


152  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

or  fourteen  gems,  at  the  churning  of  the  sea  ;  the  other,  another 
sacti,  Saraswati,  the  goddess  of  literature  and  harmony,  the 
daughter  of  Brahma. 

Vishnu  and  Shivii  are  said  each  to  have  a  thousand  names  ; 
they  are  strung  together  in  verse,  and  repeated  on  certain 
occasions  by  Brahmans  as  a  sort  of  litany,  accompanied  some- 
times with  the  rosary.  Images  of  Vishnu,  either  representing 
him  in  his  own  person,  or  in  any  of  his  avataras  or  incarnations, 
may  be  generally  distinguished  from  those  of  other  deities  by  a 
shell  (chank),  and  a  sort  of  wheel  or  discus,  called  chakra. 
The  chank  is  the  large  buccinum,  sometimes  seen  beautifully 
coloured  like  a  pheasant's  breast.  The  chakra  is  a  missile 
weapon,  very  like  our  quoit,  having  a  hole  in  its  centre,  on 
which  it  is  twirled  on  the  forefinger,  and  thrown  at  the  destined 
object ;  it  has  a  sharp  edge,  and  irresistible  fire  flames  from  its 
periphery  when  whirled  by  Vishnu.  Two  other  attributes 
appertain  to  him  ;  the  gadha,  a  mace  or  club ;  and  the  padma, 
a  lotus.  The  god  is  represented  four-handed,  and  wears  on  his 
head  a  high  cap  of  singular  form,  called  mugut.  At  the  back  of 
this  brazen  idol  lotus-leaves  form  a  sort  of  glory,  crowned  by 
the  head  of  a  bird,  perhaps  intended  as  an  emblem  of  his 
vahan  Garuda.  Vishnii  is  sometimes  seen  mounted  on  an 
eagle,  or  rather  on  an  animal  composed  of  an  eagle  and  a  man, 
cleaving  the  air,  and  soaring  to  the  skies.  Vishnu  is  represented 
in  the  form  of  a  black  man,  with  yellow  garments. 

SHIVU,    THE    DESTROYER. 

The  third  personage  in  the  Hindu  trinity  is  Shivu,  theDestroyer: 
he  is  represented  as  a  silver-coloured  man,  with  five  faces ;  an 
additional  eye  and  a  half-moon  grace  each  forehead  ;  he  has  four 
arms ;  he  sits  on  a  lotus,  and  wears  a  tiger-skin  garment. 
Nandi  is  the  epithet  always  given  to  the  white  bull,  the  vehicle 
of  Shivii,  on  which  he  is  frequently  seen  riding ;  in  his  temple 
it  is  represented  sometimes  of  great  dimensions,  couchant, 
and  it  is  commonly  met  with  in  brass.  The  Nandi  is  often 
represented  couchant,  bearing  the  particular  emblem  the  type  of 
Shivii,  crowned  by  the  five  heads  of  the  god  ;   the  trident,  called 


THE    TEN   AVATARS.  153 

Insula,  is  his  usual  accompaniment.     Durga  and  Sati  are  his 
consorts. 

Having  thus  given  a  brief  account  of  the  Hindu  trinity,  or 
emanations  of  the  "  One  Brumhu  without  a  second,"  let  me 
return  to  Vishnu,  the  second  personage  of  the  triad,  and  trace 
him  through  his  various  descents. 

THE  TEN  AVATARS. 

The  word  itself,  in  strictness,  means  a  descent ;  but,  in  its 
more  extended  signification,  it  means  an  incarnation  of  a  deity 
in  the  person  of  a  human  being.  Such  incarnations  have  been 
innumerable  ;  however,  speaking  of  the  avatars,  it  is  generally 
meant  to  be  confined  to  the  ten  avatars  of  Vishnu,  which  are 
thus  usually  arranged  and  named  : — 1.  Mach,  Machchha,  or  the 
Fish.  2.  Kurma,  or  the  Tortoise.  3.  Varaha,  or  the  Boar. 
4.  Nara-singha,  or  the  Man-lion.  5.  Vamana,  or  the  Dwarf. 
6.  Parashu-Rama,  the  name  of  the  favoured  person  in  whom  the 
deity  became  incarnate.  7.  Rama-Chandra,  the  same.  8.  Bala- 
Rama,  the  same.  9.  Buddhii,  the  same.  10.  Kalki,  or  the 
Horse.     Of  these,  nine  are  past ;  the  tenth  is  yet  to  come. 

I.    MACH,    MACHCHHA,    OR   THE    FISH. 

I  have  a  curious  and  highly-illuminated  Hindu  painting  of 
this  first  avatar,  representing  Vishnu  as  a  black  man,  with  four 
arms,  issuing  erect  from  the  mouth  of  a  large  fish,  which  is 
represented  in  the  water,  surrounded  by  flowers  of  the  lotus. 
The  head  of  the  Preserver  is  encircled  by  rays  of  glory,  and  he 
appears  in  the  act  of  destroying  the  demon  Hayagriva,  whom 
he  has  seized  by  the  hair  with  one  hjind,  while,  on  the  fingers  of 
another  hand,  he  is  whirling  round  the  disk  with  which  to 
destroy  the  evil  spirit.  The  demon  is  represented  as  a  red  man, 
issuing  from  a  shell ;  on  his  forehead  are  two  golden  horns,  and 
in  his  hands  one  of  the  vedas,  the  sacred  books.  On  the  right 
of  the  picture  stands  Brahma,  a  pale-coloured  man,  with  four 
arms  and  four  heads,  each  of  which  has  a  long  white  beard  :  three 
of  the  vedas  are  in  his  hands,  and  the  fourth  is  in  one  of  the 
four  hcinds  of  Vishnu.     The  following  is  a  Uteral  translation 


154  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

from  the  Bhagavata,  and  the  particular  cause  of  this  first  or  fish 
avatar  is  described  as  follows  : — "  At  the  close  of  the  last  calpa 
there  was  a  general  destruction,  occasioned  by  the  sleep  of 
Brahma  ;  whence  his  creatures  in  different  worlds  were  drowned 
in  a  vast  ocean.  Brahma,  being  inclined  to  slumber,  desiring 
repose  after  a  lapse  of  ages,  the  strong  demon  Hayagriva  came 
near  him,  and  stole  the  vedas  which  had  issued  from  his  lips. 
When  Heri,  the  Preserver  of  the  Universe,  discovered  this  deed 
of  the  Prince  Danavas,  he  took  the  shape  of  a  minute  fish  called 
Saphari.  A  holy  king,  named  Satiyaurata,  then  reigned,  a 
servant  of  the  spirit  which  moved  on  the  waves,  and  so  devout 
that  water  was  his  only  sustenance.  As  this  pious  king  was 
making  a  libation  in  the  river,  the  preserving  power,  under  the 
form  of  the  fish  Saphari,  appeared  to  him,  at  first  under  a  very 
minute  form,  but  gradually  assuming  a  larger  bulk,  at  length 
became  a  fish  of  immense  magnitude."  The  astonished  king 
concludes  a  prayer  by  expressing  his  anxiety  that  the  lotus-eyed 
deity  should  inform  him  why  he  assumed  that  shape.  The  Lord 
of  the  Universe  returned  the  following  answer  :  "  '  In  seven  days 
from  the  present  time,  O  thou  tamer  of  enemies,  the  three 
worlds  will  be  plunged  in  an  ocean  of  death  ;  but  in  the  midst  of 
the  destroying  waves,  a  large  vessel,  sent  by  me  for  thy  use,  shall 
stand  before  thee.  Then  shalt  thou  take  all  medicinal  herbs,  all 
the  variety  of  seeds,  and  accompanied  by  seven  saints,  encircled 
by  pairs  of  all  brute  animals,  thou  shalt  enter  the  spacious  ark, 
and  continue  in  it,  secure  from  the  flood,  on  one  immense 
ocean,  without  light,  except  the  radiance  of  thy  holy  com- 
panions. When  the  ship  shall  be  agitated  by  an  impetuous 
wind,  thou  shalt  fasten  it  with  a  large  sea-serpent  on  my  horn ; 
for  I  will  be  near  thee :  drawing  the  vessel  with  thee  and  thy 
attendants,  I  will  remain  on  the  ocean,  O  chief  of  men,  until  a 
day  of  Brahma  (a  year)  shall  be  completely  ended.'  "  He  spake 
and  vanished  from  his  sight.  Satiyaurata  humbly  and  devoutly 
waited  the  awful  event,  and  while  he  was  performing  grateful 
services  to  Heaven,  the  sea,  overwhelming  its  shores,  deluged 
the  whole  earth :  and  it  was  soon  perceived  to  be  augmented  by 
showers  from  immense  clouds.     He,  still  meditating  on  the  com- 


KURMA,    OR    THE    TORTOISE.  155 

mand  of  Bhagavat,  saw  the  vessel  advancing,  and  entered  it  with 
the  chief  of  Brahraans,  having  carried  into  it  the  medicinal 
plants,  and  conformed  to  the  directions  of  Heri.  Alarmed  at 
the  violence  of  the  waves,  and  the  tossing  of  the  vessel,  the 
pious  king  invoked  the  assistance  of  the  preserving  power, 
"  when  the  god  appeared  again  distinctly  on  the  vast  ocean,  in 
the  form  of  a  fish,  blazing  like  gold,  extending  a  million  of 
leagues,  with  one  stupendous  horn ;  on  which  the  king,  as  he 
had  before  been  commanded  by  Heri,  tied  the  ship  with  a  cable 
made  of  a  vast  serpent,  and,  happy  in  his  preservation,  stood 
praising  the  destroyer  of  Madhu.  When  the  monarch  had 
finished  his  hymn,  the  primeval  male  Bhagavat,  who  watched 
for  his  safety  on  the  great  expanse  of  water,  spoke  aloud  to  his 
own  divine  essence,  pronouncing  a  sacred  purana  ;  the  substance 
of  which  was  an  infinite  mystery,  to  be  concealed  within  the 
breast  of  Satyaurata ;  who,  sitting  in  the  vessel  with  his  saints, 
heard  the  principle  of  the  soul,  the  Eternal  Being,  proclaimed 
by  the  preserving  power.  Then  Heri,  rising  together  with 
Brahma  from  the  destructive  deluge,  which  was  abated,  slew  the 
demon  Hayagriva,  and  recovered  the  sacred  books.  Satyaurata, 
instructed  in  all  divine  and  human  knowledge,  was  appointed  in 
the  present  calpa,  by  the  favour  of  Vishnu,  the  seventh  menu, 
surnamed  Vaivaswata ;  but  the  appearance  of  a  horned  fish  to 
the  religious  monarch  was  all  may  a  or  delusion." 

2.    KURMA,    OR    THE    TORTOISE. 

The  second  grand  avatara  of  Vishnu,  called  the  Tortoise, 
evidently,  like  that  of  the  fish,  refers  to  the  Deluge.  Of  this  I 
have  an  illuminated  painting,  representing  Kurma-Rajii,  the  king 
of  the  tortoises,  on  whose  back  the  mountain  Mandara  is  poised  ; 
and  just  above  it,  I^chhml,  the  goddess  of  beauty,  is  seated 
on  the  flower  of  the  water-lily.  This  avatar  was  for  the  purpose 
of  restoring  to  man  some  of  the  comforts  and  conveniences  that 
were  lost  in  the  flood.  The  vast  serpent,  Vasoky,  is  repre- 
sented coiled  round  the  mountain,  serving  as  a  rope  ;  the  head 
of  the  serpent  is  held  by  two  of  the  soors  (demons) ,  represented 
as  men  with  two  horns  on  their  heads  ;  the  tail  of  the  animal  is 


156  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

held  by  Brahma,  distinguished  by  his  four  heads,  and  the  Vedas, 
the  sacred  books,  in  two  of  his  hands  ;  and  next  to  him  assisting 
in  the  operation  is  the  blue  form  of  Mahadeo,  a  form  of  Vishnu, 
his  head  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  glory.  They  now  pull  forth 
the  serpent's  head  repeatedly,  and  as  often  let  it  go,  thus  vio- 
lently whirhng  round  the  mountain,  they  churned  the  ocean, 
for  the  recovery  of  the  amrita,  or  beverage  of  immortality ; 
Vasoky  serving  as  a  rope  to  the  mountain,  which  was  supported 
on  the  back  of  the  tortoise.  Presently  there  arose  out  of  the 
troubled  deep,  fourteen  articles,  usually  called  the  fourteen 
gems,  or  in  common  language  chowda  ratny. — 1.  The  moon, 
Chandra,  with  a  pleasing  countenance,  shining  with  ten  thou- 
sand beams  of  gentle  light ; — 2.  Sri,  or  Lachhmi,  the  goddess  of 
fortune  and  beauty,  whose  seat  is  the  white  lily  of  the  waters  ; — 
3.  Sura,  wine ;  or  Suradevi,  the  goddess  of  wine  ; — 4.  Oochis- 
rava,  a  horse  with  eight  heads,  and  as  swift  as  thought ; — 
5.  Kustubha,  a  jewel  of  inestimable  value,  that  glorious  spark- 
ling gem  worn  by  Narayen  on  his  breast ; — 6.  Parajata,  the  tree 
of  plenty,  that  spontaneously  jdelded  every  thing  desired ; — 
7.  Surabbi,  a  cow,  similarly  bountiftil ; — 8.  Dhanwantara,  a  phy- 
sician ; — 9.  Iravat,  the  elephant  of  Indra  with  three  proboscides  ; 
— 10.  Shank,  a  shell  conferring  victory  on  whomsoever  should 
sound  it; — 11.  Danashu,  an  unerring  bow; — 12.  Bikh,  poison, 
or  di'ugs; — 13.  Rhemba,  the  Aspara,  a  beautifiil  and  amiable 
woman  ; — 14.  Amrita,  the  beverage  of  immortality,  which  was 
brought  forth  when  the  physician  Dhanwantara  appeared,  hold- 
ing in  his  hand  a  white  vessel  filled  with  the  immortjd  juice 
Amrita. 

3.  BARAH  OR  VARAHA,  THE  BOAR. 

I  have  a  painting  of  this  avatara,  representing  Vishnii  in 
human  shape,  with  the  head  of  a  boar,  on  one  of  whose  tusks 
the  earth  is  lifted  up,  which  is  represented  as  mountains ;  on 
which  is  a  Hindoo  temple,  with  a  flag.  Vishnu  himself  is  in 
the  ocean,  his  feet  trampling  on  a  gigantic  demon  who  had 
rolled  up  the  earth  into  the  form  of  a  shapeless  mass  and 
carried  it  down  into  the  abyss,  whither  Vishnu  followed  him  iu 


NARA-SINGHA,    OR    THE    MAN-LION.  157 

the  shape  of  a  boar,  killed  him  with  his  tusks,  and  replaced  the 
earth  in  its  original  situation. 

4.    NARA-SINGHA,    OR   THE    MAN-LION. 

Hirinakassap,  the  younger  brother  of  the  gigantic  demon, 
who  in  the  third  avatar  rolled  up  the  earth  and  carried  it  down 
to  the  abyss,  succeeded  him  in  his  kingdom  over  the  inferior 
world,  and  refused  to  do  homage  to  Vishnu.  His  son  Pralhaud, 
who  disapproved  of  his  father's  conduct,  was  persecuted  and 
banished ;  his  father  sought  to  kill  him,  but  was  prevented  by 
the  interposition  of  heaven,  which  appeared  on  the  side  of 
Pralhaud.  At  length,  Hirinakassap  was  softened,  and  recalled 
his  son  to  his  court ;  where,  as  he  sat  in  full  assembly,  he  began 
to  argue  with  him  against  the  supremacy  of  Vishnii,  boasted 
that  he  himself  was  lord  of  all  the  visible  world,  and  asked, 
"What  Vishnii  could  pretend  to  more?"  Pralhaud  replied, 
"  That  Vishnu  had  no  fixed  abode,  but  was  present  every  where." 
"Is  he,"  said  his  father,  "in  that  pillar?"  "Yes,"  returned 
Pralhaud.  "  Then  let  him  come  forth,"  said  the  king ;  and 
rising  from  his  seat,  struck  the  pillar  with  his  foot ;  upon  which 
Vishnu,  in  the  form  of  Nara-singha,  that  is  to  say,  with  a  body 
like  a  man,  but  a  head  hke  a  lion,  came  out  of  the  pillar  and 
tore  Hirinakassap  in  pieces.  Vishnii  then  fixed  Pralhaud  on 
the  throne,  and  his  reign  was  a  mild  and  virtuous  one.  I  have 
a  Hindoo  painting  commemorative  of  this  avatar,  in  which  the 
man-Uon  is  represented  seated  in  the  centre  of  a  pillar  that  has 
been  burst  open,  while,  with  his  hands,  he  is  tearing  out  the 
bowels  of  the  impious  king,  who  lies  howling  and  kicking  across 
the  knees  of  Nara-singha.  On  the  right  of  the  picture  a  Hin- 
dustani woman  stands,  with  the  palms  of  her  hands  pressed 
together ;  and  to  the  left,  is  a  man,  apparently  a  dwarf,  standing 
in  the  same  attitude. 

5.    VAMANA,    OR   THE   DWARF. 

Maha-Beli,  by  severe  rehgious  austerities,  had  obtained  from 
Brahrna  the  sovereignty  of  the  universe,  or  the  three  regions  of 
the  Sky,  the  Earth,  and  Patala.     He  was  a  generous  and  mag- 


158  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

nificent  monarch,  but  was  so  much  elated  by  his  gi-andeur,  that  he 
omitted  the  essential  ceremonies  and  offerings  to  the  deities  ;  and 
Vishnii,  finding  it  necessary  to  check  the  influence  of  such  an 
example,  resolved  to  mortify  and  punish  the  arrogant  Rajii.  He 
therefore  assumed  the  form  of  a  wretched  Brahman  dwarf ;  and 
appearing  before  the  king,  asked  a  boon,  which  being  promised, 
he  demanded  as  much  as  he  could  pace  in  three  steps :  nor 
would  he  desire  further,  although  urged  by  Beli  to  demand 
something  more  worthy  of  him  to  give.  Vishnii,  on  obtaining 
the  king's  promise,  required  a  ratification  of  it,  which  is  per- 
formed by  the  pouring  out  of  water  from  a  vessel  upon  the 
hand  of  the  person  to  whom  it  is  given.  The  monarch, 
although  warned  of  the  consequences,  disdaining  to  deviate 
from  his  word,  confirmed  his  promise  with  the  required  oath ; 
and  bidding  the  dwarf  stretch  forth  his  hand,  poured  out  upon 
it  the  sacred  wave  that  ratified  the  promise.  As  the  water  in  a 
full  stream  descended  from  his  extended  hand,  the  form  of  the 
Vamana  gradually  increased  in  magnitude,  until  it  became  of 
such  enormous  dimensions  that  it  reached  up  to  heaven.  Then, 
with  one  stride,  he  measured  the  vast  globe  of  the  earth  ;  with 
the  second,  the  ample  expanse  of  heaven  ;  and  with  the  third, 
was  going  to  compass  the  regions  of  Patala ;  when  BeU,  con- 
vinced that  it  was  even  Vishnii  himself,  fell  prostrate  and 
adored  him  ;  yielding  him  up  without  farther  exertion,  the  free 
possessions  of  the  third  region  of  the  universe.  However, 
Vishnu  left  Maha-Beli,  for  the  remainder  of  his  life,  possession 
of  Patala,  or  the  infernal  regions.  In  this  character  Vishnu  is 
sometimes  called  the  three-step-taker.  I  have  an  illuminated 
painting  of  this  avatar,  in  which  the  king,  whose  head  is  sur- 
rounded with  rays  of  glory,  is  holding  in  his  hands  a  spouted 
vessel,  while  just  before  him  Vishnu  in  the  character  of  a  dwarf, 
but  with  rays  also  around  his  head,  is  standing  with  clasped 
hands.  Behind  the  king  an  Hindustani  woman  is  waving  the 
.chaunri,  the  white  tail  of  the  yak,  above  his  head  ;  and  behind 
the  dwarf  stands  Sukra,  called  the  one-eyed  and  evil  counsellor. 
The  ratifying  stream  was  the  river  Gunga,  which,  falling  from 
the  hand  of  the  dwarf  Vishnu,   descended  thence  to  his  foot, 


PARASHU-RAMA.  159 

whence,  gushing  as  a  mighty  river,  it  was  received  on  the  head  of 
Shiva,  and  flowed  on  in  the  style  commonly  seen  through  the 
cow's  mouth. 

6.    PARASHU-RAMA. 

The  epithet  parashu,  distinguishingly  prefixed  to  the  name  of 
this  Rama,  means  a  battle-axe.  Among  the  avataras  of  Vishnu  are 
recorded  three  favoured  personages,  in  whom  the  deity  became  in- 
carnate, all  named  Rama, — Parashu-Rama,  Bala-Riima,  and  Rama- 
Chandra,  and  who  are  all  famed  as  great  warriors,  and  as  youths 
of  perfect  beauty.  Parashu-Rama  was  born  near  Agra  ;  his  parents 
were  Jamadagni,  whose  name  appears  as  one  of  the  Rishis,  and 
Runeka.  Jamadagni,  in  his  pious  retirement,  was  entrusted  by 
Indra  with  one  of  the  fourteen  gems  of  the  ocean,  the  wonderful 
boon-granting  cow,  Kam-dhenu  or  Surabhi ;  and  on  one  occasion 
he  regaled  the  Raja  Diruj,  who  was  on  a  hunting  party,  in  so 
magnificent  a  manner  as  to  excite  his  astonishment,  until  he 
learned  the  secret  of  the  inestimable  animal  possessed  by  his  host. 
Impelled  by  avarice,  the  cow  was  demanded  from  the  holy 
Brahman ;  and,  on  refusal,  he  attempted  to  carry  her  away  by 
force,  but  the  celestial  cow,  rushing  on  the  Raja's  troops,  gored 
and  trampled  the  greatest  part  of  them,  put  the  rest  to  flight, 
and  then,  before  them  all,  flew  up  triumphantly  to  heaven. 
The  enraged  tyrant  immediately  marched  another  army  to  the 
spot,  and  Kam-dhenu  being  no  longer  on  earth  to  defend  the 
hermit,  the  holy  man  was  massacred,  and  his  hut  razed  to  the 
ground.  Runeka,  collecting  together  from  the  ruins  whatever 
was  combustible,  piled  it  in  a  heap,  on  which  she  placed  her 
husband's  mangled  body  ;  then,  ascending  it  herself,  set  fire  to  it, 
and  was  consumed  to  ashes.  The  prayers  and  imprecations  of  a 
sati  are  never  uttered  in  vain  :  ere  she  mounted  the  funeral  pile, 
to  strengthen  the  potency  of  her  imprecations  on  the  Raja,  she 
performed  also  the  ceremony  of  Naramedha,  or  the  sacrifice  of  ■ 
a  man  ;  thereby  rendering  her  solicitation  to  the  avenging  deities 
absolutely  irresistible. 

Kam-dhenii,  on  her  journey  to  Paradise,  stopped  to  inform 
Parashu-Rama,  who  was  under  the  care  of  Mahadeo,  of  the  cruel 


160  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

conduct  of  the  Raja  to  his  parents;  to  whose  aid  he  imme- 
diately flew,  but  arrived  only  time  enough  to  view  the  smoking 
embers  of  the  funeral  pile.  The  tears  rushed  down  his  lovely 
face,  and  he  swore  by  the  waters  of  the  Ganges  that  he  would 
never  rest  until  he  had  exterminated  the  whole  race  of  the 
Khettris,  the  raja-tribe  of  Tndia.  Armed  with  the  invincible  energy 
of  an  incarnate  god,  he  commenced  his  career  of  vengeance  by 
seeking  and  putting  to  death,  with  his  single  arm,  the  tyrant, 
with  all  the  forces  that  surrounded  him  ;  he  then  marched  from 
province  to  province,  every  where  exerting  the  unerring  bow 
Dhanuk,  and  devoted  the  whole  of  the  military  race  of  Khettri 
to  death.  After  a  life  spent  in  mighty  and  holy  deeds,  Rama 
gave  his  whole  property  in  alms,  and  retired  to  the  Kokan, 
where  he  is  said  to  be  still  living  on  the  Malabar  coast. 

I  have  an  illuminated  picture  of  this  avatar  representing  a 
single  combat  between  Parashu-Rama  and  the  tyrant  Dinij  : 
the  Raja  is  represented  with  twenty-two  arms,  three  of  which, 
having  been  cut  off  by  Rama,  have  fallen  to  the  ground,  the 
remaining  nineteen  he  is  brandishing  about.  In  the  upper 
part  of  the  picture  is  represented  the  cell  of  the  hermit,  in  front 
of  which  Jamadagni  lies  dead,  and  the  holy  cow  with  golden 
horns  and  golden  wings  is  flying  through  the  clouds. 

7.   RAMA-CHANDRA. 

Riima-Chandra,  son  of  Dasarathu,  and  conqueror  of  Lanka  or 
Ceylon,  was  the  seventh  avatar ;  when  the  deity  descended  for 
the  purpose  of  destroying  Ravana,  who  having  obtained  (for  his 
devotion)  a  promise  from  Brahma  that  he  should  not  suffer 
death  by  any  of  the  usual  means,  was  become  the  tyrant  and  pest 
of  mankind.  The  Devatas  came  in  the  shape  of  monkeys,  as 
Ravana  had  gained  no  promise  of  safety  from  them ;  hence, 
Hanumana  was  Rama's  general.  Rama-Chandra's  mother's 
name  was  Kaushalyii.  His  younger  brother,  Bharata,  was  son 
•  of  Kekayl,  who  was  the  cause  of  Rama's  going  to  the  desert  to 
perform  devotions  on  the  banks  of  the  Pampa-nadI,  insisting 
that  her  son  should  reign  the  fourteen  years  that  Rama  employed 
in  the  devotion.    It  was  while  performing  his  devotion  (or  during 


RAMA-CHANDRA.  161 

his  stay  in  the  forests)  in  company  with  Lakshmana  (his  ble- 
ther by  Sumitra)  that,  while  he  was  absent  hunting,  Ravana 
appeared  as  a  beggar,  and  enticed  away  Sita,  which  gave  rise  to 
the  war  detailed  in  the  Ramayana.  Sita  was  daughter  of  Raja 
Janaka,  who  had  promised  to  give  her  to  any  person  who  could 
bend  a  certain  bow,  which  was  done  by  Rama-Chandra.  When 
in  the  forest,  he  drew  a  circle  round  Sita,  and  forbad  her  to  go 
beyond  it,  and  left  Lakshmana  to  take  care  of  her ;  but  Laksh- 
mana hearing  some  noise  which  alarmed  him  for  his  brother, 
left  her  to  seek  him :  then  it  was  that  Ravana  appeared,  and 
enticed  her  out  of  the  circle  (gandi),  and  carried  her  off  in  his 
flying  chariot.  In  the  air  Ravana  was  opposed  by  the  bird 
Jatagu,  whose  wings  he  cut  and  escaped.  Rama-Chandra  reigned 
in  Awadh  (Ayodhyii)  before  Christ  1600. 

Vol.  L  page  108,  contains  an  account  of  the  Ram  Leela 
Festival,  and  of  Hiinooman  and  his  army  of  monkeys,  most 
important  personages  in  the  history  of  Riima-Chandra  ;  the  grief 
of  the  warrior  when  roaming  the  world  in  search  of  the  beloved 
Sita  is  described  Vol.  L  page  342.  As  the  offspring  of  Shivii, 
Hianooman  is  sometimes  represented  five-headed.  Sita  is  de- 
scribed as  "  endued  with  youth,  beauty,  sweetness,  goodness, 
and  prudence  ;  an  inseparable  attendant  on  her  lord,  as  the  light 
on  the  moon ;  the  beloved  spouse  of  Rama,  dear  as  his  own 
soul,  formed  by  the  illusion  of  the  deva ;  amiable,  adorned  with 
every  charm."  She  is  also  a  favourite  in  descriptive  poetry,  and 
is  held  forth  as  an  example  of  conjugal  affection. 

I  have  an  illuminated  picture  of  Sita,  Ram,  and  Hiinooman. 
The  happy  pair  are  seated  on  a  couch  of  silver  and  velvet,  while 
Hunoomiin,  on  the  ground  before  them,  is  gravely  employed 
shampooing  one  foot  of  the  god ;  behind  them  stands  an 
attendant,  waving  a  chaunri  of  peacock's  feathers  over  their 
heads. 

8.    BALA-RAMA. 

Bala-Rama,  although  a  warrior,  may,  from  his  attributes,  be 
esteemed  a  benefactor  of  mankind  ;  for  he  bears  a  plough,  and 
a  pestle  for  beating  rice  ;  and  he  has  epithets  derived  from  the 

VOL.  II.  M 


162  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

names  of  these  implements,  viz.  :  Halayudha,  plough-armed ; 
and  Masali,  as  bearing  a  musal  or  rice-beater.  His  name,  Bala, 
means  strength,  and  he  is  sometimes  seen  with  the  skin  of  a  lion 
over  his  shoulders.  A  full  account  of  the  three  Ramas  is  given 
in  the  Ramayana,  a  great  epic  poem,  so  highly  venerated  that 
the  fourth  class  of  Hindus,  the  Sudra,  is  not  permitted  to  read 
it.  At  the  end  of  the  first  section,  a  promise  is  made  of  great 
benefit  to  any  individual  of  the  first  three  tribes  who  shall  duly 
read  that  sacred  poem  : — "  A  Brahman,  in  reading  it,  acquires 
learning  and  eloquence ;  a  Kshettria  will  become  a  monarch  ; 
a  Vaisya  wUl  obtain  vast  commercial  profits ;  and  a  Sudra, 
hearing  it,  will  become  great." 


9.    BUDDHA. 

Such  Hindus  as  admit  Buddha  to  be  an  incarnation  of  Vishnii 
agree  in  his  being  the  last  important  appearance  of  the  deity  on 
earth ;  but  many  among  the  Brahmans  and  other  tribes  deny 
their  identity ;  and  the  Buddhists,  countenanced  by  the  rahans 
their  priests,  do,  in  general,  likewise  assert  the  independent 
existence,  and,  of  course,  paramount  character,  of  the  deity  of 
their  exclusive  worship. 

Buddha  opposed  the  sanguinary  sacrifices  of  the  Brahmans, 
and  consequently,  in  a  degree,  the  holy  vedas  themselves  which 
enjoined  them :  in  India,  therefore,  there  has  always  been  a  sect 
who  are  violently  hostile  to  the  followers  of  Buddha,  denomi- 
nating them  atheists,  and  denying  the  genuineness  of  his  avatar. 
A  rock  altar  is  sacred  to  him  throughout  Asia ;  and  he  himself 
was  often  represented  by  a  huge  columnar  black  stone,  black 
being  among  the  ancients  a  colour  emblematical  of  the  inscrutable 
nature  of  the  deity.  His  fame  and  the  mild  rites  of  his  religion 
have  been  widely  diffused ;  the  Indian  Buddha  is  the  Deva- 
Buddha  of  the  Japanese,  whose  history  and  superstitious  rites 
are  detailed  at  great  length  by  Koempfer  :  among  other  circum- 
stances, he  relates,  that,  "  in  the  reign  of  the  eleventh  Emperor 
from  Syn  Mu,  Budo  came  over  from  the  Indies  into  Japan,  and 
brought  with  him,  upon  a  white  horse,  his  religion  and  doctrine." 


BUDDHA.  163 

I  have  an  illuminated  painting,  which  I  purchased  at  Priig, 
representing  Mahadeo  as  a  black  man,  with  a  crown  of  glory, 
leading  a  white  horse,  on  which  is  a  high  native  saddle,  with  a 
large  bag  pendant  from  each  side,  and  above  the  saddle  an 
umbrella  (chatr),  the  emblem  of  royalty,  and  more  especially 
indicative  of  Buddha,  is  fixed  :  the  legs  of  the  animal  are  dyed 
with  menhdi  up  to  the  chest,  and  about  a  foot  of  the  end  of  his 
tail  is  also  dyed  red :  the  horse  is  ornamented  in  the  usual 
oriental  style  with  jewellery  and  gold.  It  is  evident  that  this  is 
not  a  painting  of  the  tenth  or  Kalki  avatar,  as  the  horse  has 
no  wings ;  the  saddle-bags,  which,  we  may  suppose,  contain  the 
doctrines  which  he  brought  with  him  upon  a  white  horse,  and  the 
chatr,  assign  it  to  Buddha ;  the  figure  of  the  man  has  only  two 
arms. 

"  From  the  most  ancient  times,"  says  Abu'l  Fazel,  "  down  to 
the  present,  the  learning  and  wisdom  of  Hindustan  has  been 
confined  to  the  Brahmans  and  the  followers  of  Jaina ;  but, 
ignorant  of  each  other's  merits,  they  have  a  mutual  aversion ; 
Krishna,  whom  the  Brahmans  worship  as  god,  these  consider  as 
an  infernal  slave  ;  and  the  Brahmans  carry  their  aversion  so  far 
as  to  say,  that  it  is  better  to  encounter  a  mad  elephant  than  to 
meet  a  man  of  this  persuasion." 

The  Buddhism  of  Hindustan  appears  formerly  to  have  had  its 
central  seat  in  Buddha  Gaya,  a  town  in  Bengal,  as  it  had  at 
Buddha  Bamiyan,  the  northern  metropolis  of  the  sect.  Ceylon 
appears  its  present  refuge.  Buddhism  is  orthodoxy  in  China 
and  its  tributary  nations ;  and  in  the  states  and  empires  of 
Cochin  China,  Cambodia,  Siam,  Pegu,  Ava,  Assam,  Thibet, 
Budtan,  many  of  the  Tartar  tribes,  and  generally  all  parts  east 
of  the  Ganges,  including  many  of  those  vast  and  numerous 
islands  in  the  seas  eastward  and  southward  of  the  farther  Indian 
promontory,  whose  inhabitants  have  not  been  converted  to 
Islamism. 

Jayadeva,  in  the  Gita  Govinda,  thus  addresses  Buddha  (or 
rather  Vishnii  or  Krishna,  so  incarnated) ,  in  his  series  of  eulogy 
on  each  of  the  avatars  : — "  9.  Thou  blamest  (O  wonderful !)  the 
whole  veda,  when  thou  seest,  O  kind-hearted !   the  slaughter  of 

m2 


1G4  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

cattle  prescribed  for  sacrifice. — O  Kesava !  assuming  the  body  of 
Buddha.     Be  victorious,  O  Heri,  lord  of  the  universe !  " 

The  three  sects  of  Jina,  Mahiman,  and  Buddha,  whatever 
may  be  the  difference  between  them,  are  all  named  Buddhas ; 
and  as  the  chief  law,  in  which,  as  the  Brahmans  assert,  they 
make  virtue  and  religion  consist,  is  to  preserve  the  lives  of  all 
animated  beings,  we  cannot  but  suppose  that  the  founder  of  their 
sect  was  Buddha,  in  the  ninth  avatar,  the  benevolent,  the  tender- 
hearted. 

Moor  remarks  : — "  In  very  ancient  sculptures  and  excavations 
we  find  the  image  of  Buddha  among  other  deities  of  Brahmanical 
superstition.  The  cave  of  Gharipuri,  called  by  us  Elephanta,  an 
island  in  Bombay  Harbour,  is  an  instance  of  this ;  and  this 
temple  in  itself  may  be  called  a  complete  pantheon  ;  for  among 
the  hundreds — I  may,  perhaps,  say  thousands — of  figures  there 
sculptured,  every  principal  deity  is  found.  I  noticed  the  follow- 
ing :  Brahma,  Vishnu,  Siva,  Buddha,  Ganesa,  and  Indra ;  and 
these  are,  in  fact,  all  that  are,  by  their  forms  or  attributes  or 
vehicles,  unequivocally  distinguishable.  The  figure  of  Buddha,  in 
the  temple  of  Gharipuri,  is  immediately  on  your  left  at  entering." 
Moor  supposes  the  temple  is  dedicated  to  the  One  Supreme 
Being ;  but  as  no  representations  are  made  of  that  being,  his 
three  principal  powers  or  attributes,  Brahma,  Vishnu,  and  Siva, 
are  united  in  the  most  conspicuous  place,  immediately  fronting 
the  entrance,  and  forming  a  gigantic  triune  bust  of  the  trimurti, 
the  Hindii  triad.  The  native  account  of  this  avatar  is,  that 
Buddha  descended  from  the  region  of  souls,  and  was  incarnate 
in  the  body  of  Mahamaya,  the  wife  of  the  Raja  of  Kailas. 
Five  days  after  his  birth,  the  pandits  prophesied  that,  as  he  had 
marks  on  his  hands  resembling  a  wheel,  he  would  at  length 
become  a  Raja  Chacraverti,  and  arrive  at  the  dignity  of  avatar. 
He  was  named  Sacya,  and  on  one  occasion  Brahma  descended, 
and  held  a  canopy  over  his  head.  His  wife  was  Vasutara,  the 
daughter  of  a  Raja. 

I  have  many  images  of  Buddha,  which  were  brought  from 
Ava,  in  gold,  silver,  and  in  bronze.  The  common  posture  is 
that   of  sitting  cross-legged   on  a  throne,  with   his   left  hand 


h 


BUDDHA.  165 

resting  on  his  right  foot,  which  is  placed  over  his  left  knee,  and 
his  right  hand  hanging  over  his  right  knee.  I  have  two  images 
of  Buddha  in  bronze,  which  came  from  Ava,  in  which  he  is  repre- 
sented in  this  posture,  sitting  with  his  back  against  a  plantain 
tree,  the  leaves  of  which  spread  out  above  his  head,  and  adorn  the 
image.  These  images  were  accompanied  by  several  other  figures 
apparently  engaged  in  worship,  wearing  high  conical  caps ;  the 
hands  of  one  figure  are  clasped  in  prayer ;  another  holds  in  both 
hands,  placed  upon  the  knees,  a  plate  containing  four  balls  ;  and 
another,  in  the  same  attitude,  holds  in  both  hands  something 
that  has  the  appearance  of  a  circular  box.  I  have  also  various 
dragons  and  bells,  formed  of  bronze,  which  also  came  from  Ava. 
An  umbrella,  made  of  iron,  and  gilt,  is  fixed  on  the  tops  of  the 
temples,  round  the  border  of  which  some  persons  suspend  bells  ; 
the  sound  has  a  pleasing  efiect  when  they  are  put  in  motion  by 
the  wind.  Bells  of  various  size  are  sometimes  hung  near  a  temple  ; 
and  images  of  lions,  and  monsters  of  various  descriptions,  facing 
the  four  quarters,  or  on  each  side  the  gateway,  are  attached  to 
most  temples.  Umbrellas,  and  stone- vessels,  in  imitation  of  those 
used  by  Goutumii  or  Buddha  as  a  mendicant,  are  also  placed 
near  the  places  of  worship.  When  Buddha  was  one  month  old, 
his  nurses  "  caused  him  to  be  laid  under  a  white  umbrella  upon  an 
adorned  pleasure-abounding  bed."  At  the  age  of  sixteen,  Buddha 
practised  the  greatest  austerities ;  the  King,  his  father,  became 
alarmed  and  dejected  ;  and  the  destiny-foretelling  Brahmans  as- 
sured him,  that  unless  he  put  the  unfortunate  horses  to  the  unfor- 
tunate chariot,  and  carried  his  son  out,  and  buried  him  in  a  square 
hole,  that  they  perceived  three  evils  might  happen : — "  One  to 
the  King's  life,  another  to  the  white  umbrella,  another  to  the 
Queen."  Buddha  was  carried  forth  ;  he  manifested  his  divinity 
to  the  driver  of  the  unfortunate  horses  in  the  unfortunate 
chariot,  escaped  from  meditated  death,  and  fixed  himself  as  a 
religious  mendicant  in  the  forest,  where  he  practised  the  greatest 
austerities.  I  have  an  illuminated  painting  of  Mahadeo  under  a 
rock  in  a  jungle,  seated  upon  a  tiger's  skin,  with  his  arms  raised 
above  his  head  in  penance.  A  sage  leading  a  white  horse  stands 
in  front,  in  the  act  of  worship,  and  by  the  side  of  the  river  is  a 


166  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

large  tiger :  aud  here  it  may  be  remarked,  that,  among  works  of 
the  highest  merit,  one  is  the  feeding  of  an  hungry  infirm  tiger 
with  a  person's  own  flesh,  and  the  highest  state  of  glory  is 
absoi-ption.  The  following  may  explain  the  painting : — In  the 
midst  of  a  wild  and  drearj'  forest,  flemishing  with  trees  of  sweet- 
scented  flowers,  and  abounding  in  fruits  and  roots,  infested  with 
lions  and  tigers,  destitute  of  human  society,  and  frequented  by 
the  munis  (virtuous  and  mighty  sages),  resided  Buddha,  the 
author  of  happiness,  and  a  portion  of  Narayana.  Once  upon  a 
time,  the  illustrious  Amara,  renowned  amongst  men,  coming 
here,  discovered  the  place  of  the  Supreme  Being  in  the  great 
forest.  He  caused  an  image  of  the  supreme  spirit  Buddha  to  be 
made,  and  he  worshipped  it  as  the  incarnation  of  a  portion  of 
Vishnu  :  "  Reverence  be  unto  thee,  in  the  form  of  Buddha; — 
thou  art  he  who  rested  upon  the  face  of  the  milky  ocean,  and 
who  lieth  upon  the  serpent  Sesha ;  thou  art  Trivikrama,  who  at 
three  strides  encompassed  the  earth.  I  adore  thee,  who  art 
celebrated  by  a  thousand  names,  and  under  various  forms,  in  the 
shape  of  Buddha,  the  god  of  mercy."  The  illustrious  Amara- 
Deva  then  built  the  holy  temple  of  Buddha  Gaya,  and  set  up 
the  divine  foot  of  Vishnii. 

"  The  forefathers  of  him  who  shall  perform  a  sradda  (funeral 
obsequies  in  honour  of  ancestors)  at  this  place,  shall  obtain  sal- 
vation ;  a  crime  of  an  hundred-fold  shall  be  expiated  by  a  sight 
thereof ;  of  a  thousand-fold,  by  a  touch  thereof ;  and  of  a  hun- 
dred thousand-fold,  from  worshipping  thereof" 

The  image  of  white  marble,  which  the  munshi  at  Allahabad 
informed  me  is  that  of  Parisnath,  see  Vol.  i.  p.  324,  is  six  inches 
high ;  the  position  differs  slightly  from  that  of  Buddha,  the 
right  palm  is  laid  over  the  left,  and  the  soles  of  the  feet  are 
shown,  one  on  each  side  the  hands  ;  the  head  is  raised  conically ; 
the  hair  is  straight  on  the  crown,  and  the  woolly  portion  is  so 
managed  as  to  resemble  a  fillet  of  beads  round  the  temple.  A 
raised  and  quadrated  lozenge  is  on  the  breast,  and  in  the  palm 
of  the  hand  is  a  small  ball.  In  the  centre  of  the  pedestal  on 
which  the  image  is  seated  is  a  crescent.  The  lobes  of  the  ears  are 
elongated  to  reach  the  shoulders.    Moor  informs  us  that  in  the 


BUDDHA.  167 

museum  at  the  India  House,  is  an  image  "  about  fourteen  inches 
high,  of  a  whitish,  and  I  think  calcareous,  sort  of  stone  :  an 
inscription  is  on  the  pedestal,  under  the  crescent,  but  it  is  not 
easily  to  be  made  out  or  copied.  This  image  is,  I  think,  of  a 
very  singular  and  curious  description  :  its  curly  hair,  thick  lips, 
and  position  mark  it  decidedly  of  Buddhaic  origin,  while  its 
seven  heads  refer  it  to  a  sect  of  Sauras :  hence  the  appellation 
of  Surya  Buddha,  appropriately  applied  to  it.  The  quadrated 
lozenge  on  the  breast  and  in  the  palm  of  this  image,  is  also 
unaccounted  for,  and  singular." 

The  image  of  Parisnath  agrees  perfectly  with  the  above 
description,  with  the  exception  that  it  has  only  one  head,  and 
there  is  no  inscription  on  the  pedestal. 

Buddha  signifies  a  wise  man,  and  sacya,  his  other  title,  means 
a  feeder  upon  vegetables;  he  inculcated  a  total  subjugation  of 
sense,  and  an  utter  annihilation  of  passion.  According  to  the 
religion  of  Buddha,  there  are  no  distinctions  of  caste.  PoU- 
gamy  is  not  forbidden  by  the  Buddha  doctrine,  and  it  is  not 
uncommon  for  a  man  to  have  a  plurality  of  wives.  Priests  are 
forbidden  to  marry ;  they  are  to  live  by  mendicity ;  are  to 
possess  only  three  garments,  a  begging  dish,  a  girdle,  a  razor, 
a  needle,  and  a  cloth  to  strain  the  water  which  they  drink, 
that  they  may  not  devour  insects.  To  account  for  the  short, 
crisp  hair  on  the  head  of  the  idol,  resembUng  that  of  an  African, 
it  is  said  that  Buddha,  on  a  certain  occasion,  cut  his  hair 
with  a  golden  sword,  and  its  appearance  in' consequence  was 
meant  to  be  represented  on  his  images. 

There  is  a  tradition  among  the  Cingalese,  that  one  of  the 
kings  of  Hindustan,  immediately  after  Buddha's  death,  collected 
together  five  hundred  learned  ascetics,  and  persuaded  them  to 
write  down  on  palmyra  leaves,  from  the  mouth  of  one  of 
Buddha's  principal  disciples,  all  the  doctrines  taught  by  Buddha 
in  his  lifetime.  The  Cingalese  admit  they  received  their  reli- 
gion from  the  hands  of  a  stranger.  The  Burmans  believe  that 
a  Brahman  was  deputed  to  Ceylon  to  copy  the  histories  of  the 
incarnations  of  Buddha;  and  it  is  fabled  that  the  iron  stile 
with  which  he  copied  this  work,  was  given  him  by  an  heavenly 


168  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

messenger.  With  the  images  of  Buddha  from  Ava,  were  also 
presented  to  me  four  leaves  of  the  palmyra-tree,  twenty-three 
inches  in  length  by  two  and  a  half  in  breadth,  on  both  sides  of 
which  are  engraved  with  a  stile  the  religious  doctrines  of  the 
Burmese.  The  leaves  are  held  together  by  two  pieces  of  ribbon 
passed  through  holes  in  them,  and  are  a  portion  of  a  work  of 
about  three  or  four  inches  in  thickness.  In  the  plate  entitled 
"  Puja  of  the  Tulsl,"  the  Brahman  is  reading  from  palmyra 
leaves  of  the  same  description. 

10.    KALKI,    OR    THE    HORSE. 

The  Kalkl,  or  final  avatar,  is  yet  to  come  ;  in  which  Vishnu 
will  appear  incarnate  in  a  human  form,  for  the  purpose  of  dis- 
solving the  universe.  The  Kalki  will  be  incarnate  in  the 
house  of  the  Brahman  Bishenjun,  the  apparent  offspring  of  the 
sage  by  his  wife  Awejsedenee,  and  will  be  born  in  the  city  of 
Sambal,  towards  the  close  of  the  Kali  period  or  Yug,  in  the 
month  Vaisach,  the  scorpion.  In  one  hand  he  is  represented 
bearing  aloft  a  "  cimetar,  blazing  like  a  comet,"  to  destroy  all 
the  impure,  who  shall  then  inhabit  the  earth  ;  and  in  the  other 
he  displays  a  circular  ornament  or  ring,  the  emblem  of  cycles 
perpetually  revolving,  and  of  which  the  existing  one  is  on  the 
point  of  being  finally  terminated.  The  Kalkl  is  represented 
leading  a  white  horse,  richly  caparisoned,  adorned  with  jewels, 
and  furnished  with  wings.  The  horse  is  represented  standing  on 
three  feet  only,  holding  up,  without  intermission,  the  right  fore- 
leg ;  with  which,  say  the  Brahmans,  when  he  stamps  with  fury 
upon  the  earth,  the  present  period  shall  close,  and  the  dissolution 
of  nature  take  place.  Jayadeva  thus  describes  the  tenth  avatar : 
"  For  the  destruction  of  all  the  impure  thou  drawest  thy 
cimetar,  blazing  like  a  comet :  (how  tremendous  !)  O  Cesava, 
assuming  the  body  of  Kalkl :  Be  victorious,  O  Heri,  lord  of  the 
universe  !" 

End  of  the  Kall-yug,  or  fourth  Indian  period,  and  of  the 
history  of  the  ten  avatars. 

THE    DESCENT   OF   VISHNU    AS   KRISHNA. 

The  Preserver  appeared  on   earth  in  the  form  of  Krishna, 


THE    DESCENT    OF    VISHNU    AS    KRISHNA.  169 

who  is  regarded  as  Vishnu  himself,  and  distinct  from  the  ten 
avatars.  For  the  history  of  this  god  I  refer  you  to  page  118, 
in  which,  under  the  title  of  Krishnii,  or  Kaniya,  is  given  the 
history  of  his  life,  up  to  the  time  that  he  disappeared  from 
amidst  the  gopis,  and  left  them  mourning  for  his  absence. 

Here,  it  may  be  as  well  to  remark,  in  consequence  of  an  error 
in  that  part  of  my  journal,  that  Dewarkl,  the  mother  of  Krishnii, 
was  the  daughter  of  the  tyrant  Kansa ;  and  that  Vasudeva,  who 
carried  him  across  the  Jumna,  was  his  father. 

The  death  of  Krishna,  which  happened  some  time  afterwards, 
and  his  ascension  to  the  heavens,  is  thus  related  ; — "  Balhadur 
met  his  fate  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  and  when  Krishna  saw 
that  his  spirit  had  finally  departed,  he  became  exceedingly 
sorrowful.  Near  where  he  stood  there  was  a  jungle  or  brake, 
into  which  he  entered ;  and  leaning  his  head  on  his  knees,  sat 
absorbed  in  the  deepest  melancholy.  He  reflected  within  him- 
self that  all  the  effect  of  Kanharee's  curse  had  now  fully  taken 
place  on  the  Yadavas,  and  he  now  called  to  remembrance  these 
prophetic  words,  which  Doorsava  had  once  uttered  to  him  : — 
'  O  Krishna !  take  care  of  the  sole  of  thy  foot ;  for  if  any  evil 
come  upon  thee,  it  will  happen  in  that  place.'  Krishna  then 
said  to  himself,  '  Since  all  the  Kooroos  and  the  whole  of  the 
Yadavas  are  now  dead  and  perished,  it  is  time  for  me  also  to 
quit  the  world.'  Then,  leaning  on  one  side,  and  placing  his 
feet  over  his  thighs,  he  summoned  up  the  whole  force  of  his 
mental  and  corporeal  powers,  while  his  hovering  spirit  stood 
ready  to  depart.  At  that  time,  there  came  thither  a  hunter, 
with  his  bow  and  arrow  in  his  hand ;  and  seeing  from  a  distance 
Krishna's  foot,  which  he  had  laid  over  his  thigh,  and  which  was 
partly  obscured  by  the  trees,  he  suspected  it  to  be  some  animal 
sitting  there  :  applying,  therefore,  to  his  bow  and  arrow,  the  point 
of  the  latter  of  which  was  formed  from  the  very  iron  of  that  club 
which  had  issued  from  Sateebe's  body,  he  took  aim,  and  struck 
Krishna  in  the  sole  of  his  foot.  Then,  thinking  he  had  secured 
the  animal,  he  ran  up  to  seize  it ;  when,  to  his  astonishment, 
he  beheld  Krishna  there,  with  four  hands,  and  drest  in  yellow 
habiliments.     When  the  hunter  saw  that  the  wounded  object 


170  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

was  Krishna,  he  advanced,  and,  falling  at  his  feet,  said,  '  Alas, 
O  Krishna !  I  have,  by  the  most  fatal  of  mistakes,  struck  you 
with  this  arrow ;  seeing  your  foot  at  a  distance,  I  did  not 
properly  discern  my  object,  but  thought  it  to  be  an  animal ;  Oh, 
pardon  my  involuntary  crime!'  Krishna  comforted  him  to  the 
utmost  of  his  power,  saying,  '  It  was  no  fault  of  thine  ;  depart, 
therefore,  in  peace.'  The  hunter  then  humbly  kissed  his  foot, 
and  went  sorrowing  away.  After  the  hunter  was  gone,  so  great 
a  light  proceeded  from  Krishna,  that  it  enveloped  the  whole 
compass  of  the  earth,  and  illuminated  all  the  expanse  of  heaven. 
At  that  instant,  an  innumerable  tribe  of  devatas,  and  other 
celestial  beings,  of  all  ranks  and  denominations,  came  to  meet 
Krishna  ;  and  he,  luminous  as  on  that  night  when  he  was  born 
in  the  house  of  Vasudeva,  by  that  same  light  pursued  his  journey 
between  heaven  and  earth,  to  the  bright  Vaikontha  or  Paradise, 
whence  he  had  descended.  All  this  assemblage  of  beings,  who 
had  come  to  meet  Krishna,  exerted  the  utmost  of  their  power 
to  laud  and  glorify  him,  Krishna  soon  arrived  at  the  abode  of 
Indra,  who  was  overjoyed  to  behold  him,  accompanied  him 
as  far  as  Indra-Loke  reached,  and  offered  him  all  manner 
of  ceremonious  observances.  When  Krishna  had  passed 
the  limits  of  Indra's  territory,  Indra  said  to  him,  '  I  have 
no  power  to  proceed  any  farther,  nor  is  there  any  admission 
for  me  beyond  this  limit ;'  so  Krishna  kindly  dismissed  him, 
and  went  forward  alone." 

Arjoon,  the  friend  of  Krishna,  went  to  Dwaraka,  to  see  in 
what  state  Krishna  himself  might  be ;  when  he  beheld  the  city 
in  the  state  of  a  woman  whose  husband  is  recently  dead;  and 
finding  neither  Krishna  nor  Balhadur  nor  any  other  of  his 
friends  there,  the  whole  place  appeared  in  his  eyes  as  if  involved 
in  a  cloud  of  impenetrable  darkness  ;  nor  could  he  refrain  from 
bursting  into  tears.  The  sixteen  thousand  wives  of  Krishna, 
the  moment  they  set  their  eyes  on  Arjoon,  burst  also  into  a  flood 
,of  tears,  and  all  at  once  began  the  most  bitter  lamentations  ; 
and,  in  truth,  the  whole  city  wzis  so  rent  with  uproar  and 
distraction,  that  it  surpasses  description.  A  few  days  from  this 
time,  Vasudeva,  the  father  of  Krishna,  died,  while  fourteen  of 


KAMA-DEVA,  THE  GOD  OF  LOVE.  171 

his  wives  were  standing  around  him,  four  of  whom  burnt  them- 
selves on  his  funeral  pile.  Arjoon  made  search  also  for  the 
earthly  portions  of  what  once  was  Krishna  and  Balhadur  :  these 
also  he  solemnly  committed  to  the  flames.  Five  of  Krishna's 
wives  burnt  themselves  ;  while  Sete-Bame,  with  some  others, 
investing  themselves  with  the  habits  of  Sanyassi's,  and,  forsaking 
the  world,  retired  into  the  deserts  to  pass  their  lives  in  solitude 
and  prayer. 

Of  the  eight  wives  of  Krishna  it  is  unnecessary  to  give  a 
detailed  account ;  the  history  of  Radha  has  been  mentioned 
before,  but  Rukmeni  must  not  be  forgotten,  who,  with  several 
other  of  his  wives,  became  satT,  in  the  hope  of  an  immediate 
reunion  with  her  lord  in  the  heaven  of  Vaikontha. 

KAMA-DEVA,    THE    GOD    OF    LOVE. 

Rukmeni  bore  to  Krishna  a  son,  who  was  named  Pradyamna, 
and  was  no  other  than  Kama,  the  God  of  Love.  He  was  stolen 
by  Sambara,  a  Raja,  cast  into  the  sea,  and  swallowed  by  a  fish ; 
which  being  caught  and  presented  to  the  Riija,  was  opened  by 
his  cook,  Reti,  who  discovered  and  preserved  the  child.  A 
tahsman  was  given  which  rendered  the  infant  invisible  at  plea- 
sure. He  was  nurtured  by  Kam-dhenu,  the  holy  cow,  one  of 
the  fourteen  gems  of  the  ocean.  The  god  of  Love  attained  man- 
hood, and  delusion  (maya)  being  removed,  he  was  restored  to 
his  delighted  mother,  Rukmeni. 

He  is  represented  as  a  beautiful  youth,  sometimes  con- 
versing with  his  mother  and  consort  in  the  midst  of  his  gardens 
and  temples;  sometimes  riding  by  moonlight  on  a  parrot  or 
lory,  and  attended  by  dancing  girls  or  nymphs,  the  foremost  of 
whom  bears  his  banner,  a  fish  on  a  red  ground.  His  favourite 
place  of  resort  was  a  tract  of  country  around  Agra,  and  the 
plains  of  Matra ;  where  Krishna  also,  and  the  Gopia,  usually 
spent  the  night  singing  and  dancing.  Pushpa-dhanva,  the  god 
with  the  flowery  bow,  is  one  of  his  many  appellations.  His  bow 
is  represented  of  flowers,  or  of  sugar-cane,  with  a  string  formed 
of  bees,  and  his  five  arrows,  each  pointed  with  an  Indian 
blossom  of  love-inspiring  quality. 

"  Hail,  god  of  the  flowery  bow ;  hail,  warrior,  with  a  fish  on 


172  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

thy  banner ;  hail,  powerful  divinity,  who  causest  the  firmness 
of  the  sage  to  forsake  him,  and  subduest  the  guardian  deities  of 
the  eight  regions ! 

"  Glory  be  to  Madana  ;  to  Kama ;  to  him  who  is  formed  as 
the  god  of  gods ;  to  him  by  whom  Brahma,  Vishnu,  Siva, 
Indra,  are  filled  with  emotions  of  rapture  !  " 

jagana'th,  or  jaganat'ha. 

On  the  festival  of  the  Rat'hajattra,  or  the  festival  of  the 
Chariot,  the  images  of  Krishna  and  Bala-Rama  are  borne  about  in 
a  car  by  day :  on  this  occasion  Krishna  is  worshipped  as  Jaga- 
na'th, or  Lord  of  the  Universe.  At  the  temple  of  that  name  the 
concourse  of  people  is  very  great :  the  rising  of  the  moon  is  the 
sign  of  the  commencement  of  the  feast,  which  must  end  when 
it  sets.  A  legend  is  given  of  Krishna  having  hid  himself  in  the 
moon,  in  consequence  of  a  false  accusation  of  stealing  a  gem 
from  Prasena,  who  had  been  killed  by  a  lion.  To  see  the  moon 
on  the  fourth  day  after  full,  and  the  fourth  day  after  new,  of 
the  month  Bhadra,  is  hence  deemed  inauspicious ;  and  is  con- 
sequently avoided  by  pious  Vaishnavus,  or  followers  of  Vishnii. 
Further  particulars  relative  to  this  deity  will  be  found  in  the 
chapter  that  records  my  visit  to  the  far-famed  temple  of 
Jagana'th. 

Having  thus  traced  Vishnu  the  Preserver  through  the  various 
forms  he  assumed  on  earth  in  the  ten  avatars,  in  his  appearance 
as  Krishna,  and  the  latter  in  the  form  of  Jaganat'ha,  let  us 
return  to  the  third  personage  of  the  Hindu  triad. 

SHIVU,    THE    DESTROYER. 

This  god  is  generally  ranked  as  the  third  power  or  attribute 
of  the  deity,  he  personifies  destruction ;  and  in  the  obvious 
arrangement  of  the  three  grand  powers  of  the  Eternal  One, 
Creation  and  Preservation  precede  Destruction.  His  most  usual 
.accompaniment  is  a  trident,  or  tri-forked  flame,  called  trisula ;  his 
colour  is  white,  that  of  his  hair  light  or  reddish.  He  is  some- 
times seen  with  two  hands,  sometimes  with  four,  eight,  or  ten  ; 
and  with  five  faces.  He  has  a  third  eye  in  his  forehead,  pointing 
up  and  down ;  this  distinction  is  peculiar  to  him,  his  children,  and 


SHIVU,    THE    DESTROYER.  173 

Avataras.  As  the  god  of  Justice,  which  character  he  shares 
with  Yama  and  other  deities,  he  rides  a  bull,  the  symbol  of 
divine  justice.  As  emblems  of  immortality,  serpents  are  com- 
mon to  many  deities,  but  this  god  is  abundantly  decked  with 
them,  and  snakes  are  his  constant  attendants.  A  crescent  on 
his  forehead,  or  in  his  hair,  is  common  in  pictures  and  images 
of  Mahadeva  or  Shivu.  Serpents,  emblems  of  eternity,  form  his 
ear-rings,  called  Naug  Kundala :  his  pendant  collar  of  human 
heads  (Mund  mala)  marks  his  character  of  Destruction,  or  Time  ; 
and  his  frontal  crescent  points  at  its  most  obvious  measurement, 
by  the  phases  of  the  moon.  He  holds  what  has  been  considered 
as  a  small  double  hand-drum,  shaped  like  an  hour-glass,  called 
damaru,  probably  a  sand  gheri.  Shivii  is  called  "  the  three-eyed 
god,"  and  "  the  auspicious  deity  with  uneven  eyes."  Sometimes 
he  is  represented  with  a  battle-axe  (gadha,  or  parasha),  and 
an  antelope  (mirg)  in  his  superior  hands  :  and  in  many  plates  of 
the  deity  his  loins  are  wrapped  in  a  tiger's  skin,  and  the  goddess 
Gunga  (the  Ganges)  flows  from  his  mugut  or  head-piece.  The 
followers  of  Vishnu  assert,  that  the  blessed  river  flowed  ori- 
ginally out  of  heaven,  from  the  foot  of  Vishnu,  and,  descending 
upon  Kailasa,  the  terrestrial  paradise  of  Mahadeo,  fell  on  the 
head  of  Shivu.  Each  sect  is  desirous  of  tracing  the  source  of 
the  sacred  river  to  the  head  or  foot  of  its  own  deity.  The 
stream  is  sometimes  seen  issuing  from  the  head  of  Shivii,  and 
sometimes  she  afterwards  issues  from  a  cow's  mouth.  It  is 
said,  that  high  up  towards  its  source  the  river  passes  through  a 
narrow  rocky  passage,  which  pilgrims,  who  visit  the  sacred  cleft, 
imagine  resembles  a  cow's  mouth.  This  spot  is  hence  called 
Gawmuki,  and  is  a  place  greatly  resorted  to  by  pilgrims. 

Viswaswara  is  the  name  by  which  Shivii  is  invoked  at  a 
beautiful  and  famous  temple  of  that  name  in  Kashi,  or  Benares ; 
and  it  is  said  in  the  Purdnas,  that  "The  Vedas  and  Shastrs  all 
testify  that  Viswaswara  is  the  first  of  Devas,  Kashi  the  first  of 
cities,  Gunga  the  first  of  rivers,  and  charity  the  first  of  virtues." 
Nandi  is  the  epithet  always  given  to  the  vehicle  of  Siva,  the 
white  bull :  in  his  temples  it  is  usually  represented  couchant. 

Here  I  will  mention  some  of  the  animals  appropriated  as 


174  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

vehicles  to  Hindu  mythological  personages.  Brahma,  the  swan, 
Hanasa — Vishnu,  the  eagle,  Garuda — Shivu,  the  bull,  Nandi — 
Ganesh,  the  rat — Kartikeya,  a  peacock — Indra,  the  elephant, 
Travati — Varuna,  the  genius  of  the  waters,  bestrides  a  fish,  as 
doth  also  Gunga,  the  prime  goddess  of  rivers.  Kama,  the  god 
of  Love,  is  carried  by  a  lory,  or  parrot ;  Agni,  god  of  Fire, 
by  a  ram.  The  SactI,  or  consorts  of  these  deities,  have  the 
attendant  animal  or  vahan  of  their  respective  lords.  Bhavani 
is,  however,  oflener  seen  on  a  lion  or  a  tiger  than  on  a  bull,  the 
vahan  of  Shivu.     Avataras  of  deities  ride  a  bull,  horse,  &c. 

Of  Garuda,  the  man-eagle  or  bird-god,  I  have  a  small  and 
curious  brazen  image ;  representing  him  with  folded  wings, 
sitting  in  an  attitude  of  adoration,  on  the  back  of  a  nondescript 
animal,  which  I  have  been  told  is  a  rhinoceros,  but  it  has  no 
horn. 

Another  brazen  image  which  I  procured,  as  well  as  the  former, 
at  Prag,  represents  the  bird-god  in  an  attitude  of  adoration  on 
one  knee,  supporting  on  the  top  of  his  head  a  broadly-expanded 
cup,  edged  with  leaves,  perhaps  intended  to  represent  an  ex- 
panded lotus  ;  a  vessel  of  this  sort  is  used  in  puja. 

The  title  deva  is  very  comprehensive,  meaning  generally  a 
deity  ;  devi  is  its  feminine,  but  it  is  applied  mostly  to  Bhavani, 
consort  of  Mahadeva,  which  name  of  Shivii  is,  literally,  great 
god.  But,  as  the  title  of  deva  is  given  to  other  gods,  superior 
and  inferior,  so  that  of  devi  is,  as  hath  been  before  stated, 
occasionally  bestowed  similarly  on  other  goddesses.  Devata  is 
the  plural  of  deva ;  by  some  writers  spelled  dewtah. 

The  antelope  (mirg)  that  Shivu  holds  in  one  hand,  alludes  to 
a  sacrifice,  when  the  deer,  fleeing  from  the  sacrificial  knife,  took 
refuge  with  him.  Five  lighted  lamps  are  used  in  piija  to  this 
god. 

Durga  is  the  consort  of  Shivti ;  this  goddess  is  also  known 
under  the  name  of  Bhuguviitee,  which  title  is  also  given  to  the 
sow,  which  is  regarded  by  the  Hindus  as  a  form  of  Durga.  He 
was  also  married  to  Satl,  the  daughter  of  King  Dukshu. 

Maha-kala  is  another  form  in  which  Shivu  is  worshipped  in 
the  character  of  the  destroying  deity.    The  image  is  of  a  smoke- 


MAHAD^O.  175 

coloured  boy,  with  three  eyes,  clothed  in  red  garments.  His 
hair  stands  erect ;  his  teeth  are  very  large  ;  he  wears  a  necklace 
of  human  skulls,  and  a  large  turban  of  his  own  hair ;  in  one 
hand  he  holds  a  stick,  and  in  another  the  foot  of  a  charpai ; 
his  body  is  swollen,  and  his  appearance  terrific.  Images  of  this 
form  of  Shivii  are  not  made  in  Bengal,  but  a  pan  of  water,  or 
an  emblem  of  Mahadeo,  are  substituted ;  before  which  bloody 
sacrifices  are  offered.  Except  before  this  image,  such  sacrifices 
are  never  offered  to  Shivu. 

MAHAD^O,    OR    MAHA-DEVA. 

Shivii  appeared  on  earth  in  the  form  of  a  naked  mendicant, 
with  one  head,  two  arms,  and  three  eyes,  and  was  acknowledged 
as  Mahadeo,  the  great  god  :  when  he  was  about  to  be  married 
to  Parvati,  the  daughter  of  the  Himalaya,  her  friends  treated 
the  god  in  a  scurrilous  manner,  and  cried  out,  "  Ah  !  ah  !  ah  ! 
this  image  of  gold,  this  most  beautiful  damsel,  the  greatest 
beauty  in  the  three  worlds,  to  be  given  in  marriage  to  such  a 
fellow, — an  old  fellow,  with  three  eyes,  without  teeth,  clothed  in 
a  tiger's  skin,  covered  with  ashes,  encircled  with  snakes ; 
wearing  a  necklace  of  human  bones  ;  with  a  human  skull  in  his 
hand ;  with  a  filthy  juta — that  is,  hair  matted  about  his  head  in 
form  of  a  tiara ;  who  chews  intoxicating  drugs,  has  inflamed 
eyes,  rides  naked  on  a  bull,  and  wanders  about  like  a  madman. 
Ah!  they  have  thrown  this  beautiful  daughter  into  the  river!" 
The  asoca  is  a  shrub  consecrated  to  Mahadeo,  and  is  planted 
near  his  temples.  The  hiloa,  otherwise  called  Malura,  is  also 
sacred  to  him ;  he  alone  wears  a  chaplet  of  its  flowers,  and  they 
are  offered  in  sacrifice  to  no  other  deity  ;  and  if  a  pious  Hindu 
should  see  any  of  its  flowers  fallen  on  the  ground,  he  would 
remove  them  reverently  to  a  temple  of  Mahadeo.  The  Hindu 
poets  call  it  Sriphul,  the  flower  of  Sri. 

I  have  a  beautiful  image  in  white  marble,  highly  gilt  and 
ornamented,  representing  Mahadeo  as  a  white  man,  young  and 
handsome,  sitting  on  a  platform,  with  Parvati  on  his  left  knee. 
His  hair  is  braided  into  the  shape  of  a  conical  turban  around  his 
head,  about  which  a  serpent  is  twisted ;  and  from  the  top  of  his 


176  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

head  flows  Gunga,  in  a  heavy  stream,  to  the  ground.  His 
moustache  is  brilliantly  jet  black,  and  his  forehead  adorned  with 
the  triple  eye  in  the  centre  of  a  crescent.  Below  Mahadeo  in  the 
centre  of  the  platform,  is  a  small  image  of  his  son  Ganesh,  on 
whose  right  is  the  Nandi,  the  w^hite  bull  couchant,  and  on  his  left, 
below  ParvatI,  is  a  yellow  tiger.  Mahadeo  is  represented  with 
four  hands,  one  bearing  the  tri-forked  flame,  another  a  warlike 
weapon,  a  third  a  short  rosary  of  beads,  the  fourth,  the  hand- 
drum,  the  form  of  which  is  like  an  hour-glass.  His  hands  and 
feet  are  dyed  with  hinnii ;  his  dress  is  yellow ;  a  large  snake  is 
around  his  neck,  and  his  body  profusely  adorned  with  jewels. 

GANESH. 

The  history  of  Ganesh,  the  son  of  Mahadeo  and  ParvatI, 
having  been  fully  detailed  in  the  Introduction,  is  here  omitted. 
This  god  is  the  guardian  to  the  entrance  of  the  heaven  of  Shivii. 
Vishnu,  in  the  form  of  Parashu-Rama,  wished  to  have  an 
interview  with  Shivu,  which  was  denied  him  by  Ganesh ;  upon 
which  a  battle  ensued,  and  Parashu-Rama  tore  out  one  of  his 
tusks.  No  public  festivals  are  held  in  honour  of  Ganesh  in 
Bengal ;  many  persons,  however,  choose  him  as  their  guardian 
deity.  Stone  images  of  Ganesh  are  worshipped  daily  in  the 
temples  by  the  side  of  the  Ganges,  at  Benares,  and  at  Allahabad. 

KARTIKEYA. 

The  second  son  of  Mahadeo  and  ParvatI  is  the  god  of  war, 
and  commander  of  the  celestial  armies  ;  he  is  represented  as 
six-headed,  six-armed,  six-mothered,  and  sometimes  riding  a 
peacock. 

An  account  of  the  three  great  gods  of  the  Hindu  triad  having 
been  given,  I  will  add  a  short  description  of  the  three  principal 
goddesses,  Lachhml,  SaraswatI,  and  Diirga. 

LACHHMI. 

This  goddess  is  the  consort  of  Vishnti,  and  is  esteemed  by  his 
followers  as  the  mother  of  the  world.  When  the  sea  was  being 
agitated  for  the  production  of  the  immortal  beverage,  and  the 


SARASWATl.  177 

fourteen  gems  of  the  ocean  ;  "  after  a  long  time  a^ipeared  the  great 
goddess,  inhabiting  the  lotus,  clothed  with  superlative  beauty, 
in  the  first  bloom  of  youth,  covered  with  ornaments,  and  bearing 
every  auspicious  sign ;  adorned  with  a  crown,  with  bracelets  on 
her  arms,  her  jetty  locks  flowing  in  ringlets,  and  her  body, 
which  resembled  burning  gold,  adorned  with  ornaments  of  pearl. 
This  great  goddess  appeared  with  four  arms,  holding  a  lotus  in 
her  hand ;  her  countenance  of  incomparable  beauty.  Thus  was 
produced  the  goddess  Padma  or  Sri,  adored  by  the  whole  uni- 
verse ;  Padma  by  name.  She  took  up  her  abode  in  the  bosom 
of  Padma-nabha,  even  of  Heri."  Vol.  I.  page  206,  is  an 
account  and  a  sketch  of  this  goddess  of  beauty  and  of  pros- 
perity. I  have  a  very  ancient  and  time-worn  brazen  image, 
representing  Lachhml  seated  on  an  elephant ;  she  has  four 
hands,  the  two  superior  hands  are  raised  as  high  as  her  head  ; 
one  holds  a  lotus-bud,  the  other  something  not  unUke  one ; 
each  hand  also  supports  an  elephant ;  their  trunks  unite  above 
her  head,  and  from  two  water-vessels  they  are  pouring  water  on 
an  emblem  of  Mahadeo,  which  rests  on  the  crown  of  the  head 
of  the  goddess.  The  lower  hands  are  empty,  the  palm  of  one 
is  raised,  the  other  turned  downwards.  This  image  is  very 
ancient  and  most  singular :  she  is  the  goddess  who  presides  over 
marriage,  and,  as  the  deity  of  prosperity,  is  invoked  also  for 
increase  of  children,  especially  male  children.  She  bears  the 
title  of  Rembha,  as  the  sea-born  goddess  of  beauty. 

Moor  gives  a  drawing,  much  resembling  the  above,  of  a  cast 
in  brass,  which  he  considers  to  be  Devi,  the  goddess,  a  form  of 
Durga, 

saraswatT. 

SaraswatI,  the  daughter  of  Brahma,  and  wife  of  Vishnu,  is 
represented  as  a  white  woman,  playing  on  a  sitar.  She  is  adored 
as  the  patroness  of  the  fine  arts,  especially  music  and  rhetoric ', 
as  the  inventress  of  the  Sanscrit  language,  of  the  Devanagry 
character,  and  of  the  sciences  which  writing  perpetuates.  This 
goddess  was  tui-ned  into  a  river  by  the  curse  of  a  Brahman,  and, 
at   the   Triveni,   the   river  SaraswatI  is  supposed  to  join  the 

VOL.  II.  N 


178  WANHERINGS    OF    A    PII,(iRlM. 

Ganges  and  Jumna  underground.  On  the  5th  day  of  the  month 
Magha,  Saraswati  or  Sri,  the  goddess  of  arts  and  eloquence,  is 
worshipped  with  offerings  of  flowers,  perfumes,  and  dressed  rice : 
the  worship  is  performed  before  her  image,  or  a  pen,  inkstand, 
and  book  ;  the  latter  articles  are  supposed  to  form  a  proper 
substitute  for  the  goddess.  On  this  day  the  Hindus  neither 
read  nor  write,  it  is  the  command  of  the  shastr.  Implements  of 
writing,  and  books,  are  treated  with  respect,  and  are  not  used  on 
this  holiday.  Of  an  eloquent  man  the  Hindus  say,  "  Saraswati 
sits  on  his  tongue." 

I  have  a  picture  of  the  goddess  of  eloquence,  having  an  inter- 
view with  Ganesh,  the  patron  of  literature ;  with  whom  she  is 
exchanging  written  scrolls,  probably  the  vedas.  Saraswati  is 
mounted,  astride,  upon  a  most  singular  looking  bird ;  it  is  not  a 
swan,  neither  is  it  a  peacock ;  its  legs  are  long,  so  is  its  neck  ; 
it  is  painted  red ;  can  it  be  intended  for  the  sarasu,  what  we  call 
cyrus,  or  Siberian  crane?  In  one  of  her  superior  hands  she 
bears  the  vina,  or  been,  a  musical  instrument ;  in  the  second  is  a 
lotus  and  a  scroll  of  paper  with  writing  upon  it ;  the  other  two 
hands  also  bear  written  scrolls.  She  is  represented  as  a  white 
woman,  with  one  head,  on  which  is  a  red  and  yellow  coronet ; 
her  attire  is  of  various  colours,  and  she  is  adorned  with  jewellery, 
as  well  as  with  a  long  string  or  garland  of  flowers.  Ganesh  is 
represented  sitting  on  a  lotus,  and  standing  behind  him  is  a 
woman  employed  in  fanning  him  with  a  chaunrT,  made  of  the 
white  tail  of  the  yak ;  the  black  rat,  the  constant  attendant  of 
Ganesh,  is  sitting  before  him. 

DURGA. 

The  consort  of  Shivii  derives  her  name  from  the  giant 
Doorgu,  whom  she  slew.  A  short  account  of  the  Dasera,  a 
festival  held  in  honour  of  this  goddess,  has  been  given  in  Vol.  I. 
p.  34.  Durga  has  a  thousand  names,  and  has  assumed  innu- 
.merable  forms,  among  which  are  Kali,  the  black  goddess, 
worshipped  at  Kali  Ghat ;  Bhiivanl,  the  wife  of  Shivii ;  Parvuti, 
the  Daughter  of  the  Mountain ;  the  Inaccessible,  the  Terrible, 
the  Mother  of  the  Universe.     Kali,  under  the  name  of  Phiilu- 


THE    PURANAS.  179 

Huree,  is  described  in  Vol.  I.  p.  164 ;  and  Durga,  as  Bhagwan, 
will  be  hereafter  mentioned.  I  have  an  ancient  and  curious 
brazen  image  of  Durga,  with  ten  arms,  which  I  procured  at 
Prag.  Also  numerous  images  of  Anna-Puma  Devi,  the  goddess 
who  fills  with  food,  a  very  common  household  deity ;  most 
famiUes  in  the  Mahratta  country  include  her  among  their  Dii 
penates.  She  is  represented  as  a  woman  sitting  cross-legged, 
and  holding  a  spoon  with  both  hands  across  her  lap. 

ParvatI,  Bhavani,  Diirga,  Kali,  and  Devi,  or  the  Goddess,  are 
names  used  almost  indiscriminately  in  the  writings  and  con- 
versations of  the  Hindus.  The  history  of  Sati  has  been  given 
in  Vol.  I.  p.  94. 

THE   PURANAS. 

The  first  Indian  poet  was  Valmiki,  author  of  the  Ramayana,  a 
complete  epic  poem  ;  and  Vyasa,  the  next  in  celebrity,  composed 
the  Mahabarat.  To  him  are  ascribed  the  sacred  Puranas, 
which  are  called  for  their  excellence,  the  Eighteen :  they  com- 
prise the  whole  body  of  Hindu  Theology;  and  each  Purana 
treats  of  five  topics  especially  ;  i.  e.  the  creation,  the  destruction, 
and  renovation  of  the  worlds ;  the  genealogy  of  gods  and 
heroes ;  the  reigns  of  the  Manus ;  and  the  transactions  of 
their  descendants.  The  Puranas  are,  1.  Brumhti ;  2.  Padma, 
or  the  Lotus ;  3.  Brahmanda,  or  the  egg  of  Brahma,  the  Hindu 
Mundane  egg ;  4.  Agni,  or  fire ;  5.  Vishnii ;  6.  Garuda,  the 
bird  god,  the  vehicle  of  Vishnii ;  7.  Brahmavaivarta,  or  trans- 
formation of  Brahmii ;  8.  Shivii ;  9.  Linga  ;  10.  Naruda,  son  of 
Brahma ;  11.  Skanda,  son  of  Shivu  ;  1 2.  Markendeya,  so  called 
from  a  sage  of  that  name;  13.  Bhavishyat,  future  or  pro- 
phetic; 14.  Matsya,  or  the  fish;  15.  Varaha,  or  the  boar; 
16.  Kurma,  or  the  tortoise;  17.  Vamaha,  or  the  dwarf;  and 
18.  The  Bhagavat,  or  life  of  Krishnu.  The  Puranas  are  reckoned 
to  contain  four  hundred  thousand  stanzas.  There  are,  also,' 
eighteen  upapuranas,  or  similar  poems  of  inferior  sanctity  and 
different  appellations  ;  the  whole  constituting  the  popular  or 
poetical  creed  of  the  Hindiis,  and  some  of  them,  or  particular 
parts  of  them,  being  very  generally  read  and  studied. 

n2 


180  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

On  the  ancient  sculptures  and  medals,  allusive  to  the  cos- 
mogony, these  hieroglyphic  symbols,  the  egg  and  the  serpent, 
perpetually  occur  in  very  great  variety,  single  and  combined  ; 
that  famous  representation  of  the  Mundane  egg,  encompassed 
by  the  folds  of  the  Agathodaimon,  or  good  serpent,  and  sus- 
pended aloft  in  the  temple  of  Hercules  at  Tyre,  is  well  known 
to  antiquaries.  The  Deus  lunatus  ovatus  Heliopolitanus,  or  the 
divine  egg  with  the  lunar  crescent,  adored  at  Heliopolis,  in 
Syria,  is  another  relic  of  this  ancient  superstition.  The  most 
remarkable,  however,  of  these  symbolical  devices  is  that  erected, 
and  at  this  day  to  be  seen  in  one  of  the  temples  of  Japan. 
The  temple  itself,  in  which  this  fine  monument  of  oriental 
genius  is  elevated,  is  called  Daibod,  and  stands  in  Meaco,  a 
great  and  flourishing  city  of  Japan.  The  principal  image  in  this 
design  displays  itself  in  the  form  of  a  vast  bull,  butting  with  its 
horns  against  the  egg,  which  floated  on  the  waters  of  the  abyss. 
The  statue  of  the  bull  itself  is  formed  of  massy  gold,  with  a 
great  knob  on  its  back,  and  a  golden  collar  about  its  neck, 
embossed  with  precious  stones.  The  fore-feet  of  the  animal 
are  represented  as  resting  on  that  egg,  and  his  hinder  feet  are 
immersed  amidst  stone  and  earth  mixed  together,  the  symbol  of 
a  chaotic  mass,  under  which  and  the  egg  appears  a  considerable 
quantity  of  water,  kept  in  a  hollow  stone.  The  basis  of  the 
whole  is  a  square  altar,  the  foot  of  which  is  engraved  with  many 
ancient  Japanese  characters  ;  and  round  that  foot,  in  M.  D'Han- 
carville's  engraving,  are  two  natives  of  that  country  prostrate, 
and  adoring  it. 

THE   VEDAS. 

The  Hindus  believe  that  the  original  veda  was  revealed  by 
Brahma,  and  was  preserved  by  tradition  until  it  w^as  arranged 
in  its  present  form  by  a  sage,  who  thence  obtained  the 
name  of  Vyasa,  or  Veda-vyasa ;  that  is,  compiler  of  the  vedas. 
.He  distributed  the  Indian  scriptures  into  four  parts,  each  of 
which  bears  the  common  denomination  of  veda.  The  veda, 
collectively,  is  the  bcdy  of  Hindu  scripture.  The  most  popular 
idea  of  their  origin  is,   that  they  (the  four  vedas)  issued  from 


BUDDHISM.  181 

the  four  mouths  of  Brahma.  Brahma,  as  we  have  seen,  had 
once  five  heads  ;  and  there  is  a  supplement  to  the  Hindu  scrip- 
tures, which  some  affirm  to  constitute  a  fifth  veda.  A  mys- 
terious set  of  books,  called  Agama,  proceeded  from  the  mouth 
of  Shivii. 

In  Ceylon  is  a  high  mountain,  on  which  is  the  print  of  a  foot, 
still  visible ;  the  natives  worship  this  sacred  footstep  as  that  of 
the  god  Buddha,  who  from  that  eminence  ascended  to  his  native 
skies. 

It  has  been  offered,  as  a  probable  conjecture,  that  the  Buddha 
superstition  was  the  ancient  rehgion  of  India,  and  that  the 
followers  of  Buddha  were  driven  out  of  Hindustan  by  the 
superior  interest  of  the  Brahmans  at  the  courts  of  the  Hindu 
monarchs.  The  priests  of  Buddha  insist  that  the  Brahmans 
came  with  their  religion  from  Egypt ;  while,  by  others,  it  is  con- 
versely maintained  that  the  Egyptians  derived  their  doctrines  and 
science  from  India.  The  religion  of  Buddha  was,  heretofore, 
and  probably  also  about  the  era  of  Christianity,  indisputably  of 
extensive  prevalence,  as  is  evinced  by  many  stupendous  monu- 
ments. In  Ava,  where  Buddhism  is  orthodoxy,  the  idea  is 
upheld  that  it  was  equally  prevalent  in  the  same  form  throughout 
India  until  about  the  second  century  before  Christ,  when  the 
Brahmans  are  stated  to  have  introduced  themselves  and  their 
rites. 

This  short  account  of  the  Hindii  triad  and  their  incarnations 
will  give  some  idea  of  the  mythology  of  the  Hindus ;  but  to 
understand  the  subject  more  fully  it  would  be  necessary  to  refer 
to  the  authorities  I  have  quoted  in  this  abstract '. 

'  Vide  Appendix,  No.  31. 


CHAPTER  L. 


PLEASANT  DAYS  IN  CAMP. 

Jellalabad — Menhdi  Bridge — The  Resident  of  Gwalior — Difficulty  of  crossing 
the  Sands  of  the  Ganges — Imrutpur — Marching  under  the  Flag  of  the  Resident 
of  Gwalior — Khasgunge — The  Tombs  of  Colonel  Gardner  and  his  Begam — 
Mulka  Begam — Style  of  March — Pleasure  of  a  Life  in  Tents — The  Fort  of 
AUigarh — The  Racers — The  16th  Lancers  present  a  Shield  to  Mr.  Blood — 
The  Monument — The  Kos-minar — Koorjah  and  Solitude — Meeting  of  old 
Friends — Meerut — The  Officers  of  the  Artillery  give  a  Ball  to  the  Governor- 
General  and  his  Party — The  Suraj  Kiind— The  Buffs  add  to  the  gaiety  of 
the  Station  —  The  Artillery  Theatre  —  The  Pilgrim  Tax  abolished  at 
Allahabad. 

1838,  Jan.  8th. — Arrived  at  Jellalabad  without  any  adventures. 
Went  to  hear  the  band  in  the  evening,  but  felt  weary  from  not 
having  slept  the  night  before  on  account  of  the  yells  of  the 
packs  of  jackals  in  every  direction  round  the  tent,  and  the  noise 
of  the  sentries  keeping  off  the  people  from  Kanauj.  We  were 
in  a  complete  jangal :  a  wolf  came  up  to  my  tent  at  mid-day, 
then  trotting  over  to  the  opposite  tent,  carried  off  my  neigh- 
bour's kid. 

9th. — Early  this  morning  I  overtook  Colonel  M ,  who 

was  marching  with  his  regiment,  and  rode  with  him  some  miles  : 
we  passed  over  a  most  curiously  built  suspension  bridge,  thrown 
over  the  Kala-nadi  by  the  late  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi ;  the 
pillars  through  which  some  part  of  the  workmanship  passes 
,are  remarkable.  The  sight  of  the  river  put  me  in  mind  of  the 
excellence  and  large  size  of  the  arwari  fish  it  contains.  After- 
wards, speaking  of  this  sort  of  mullet  to  Captain  O ,   he 

told  me  he  had  sent  out  a  man  to  shoot  arwari  fish,  who  had 


DIFFICULTY    OF    CROSSING    THE    SANDS    OF    THE    GANGES.       183 

returned  quite  sick  from  having  seen  a  hundred  and  thirty  dead 
bodies  choking  up  the  river. 
lOth. — Arrived  at  Fathigarh. 

I2th. — Dined  with  Major  Sutherland,  the  Resident  of  Gwalior, 
who  was  in  attendance  on  the  Governor-General.  A  number  of 
friends  were  assembled ;  a  bright  fire  blazed  in  the  tent ;  our 
host  was  the  life  of  the  party ;  the  dinner  was  excellent.  I 
have  seldom  passed  a  more  agreeable  evening. 

I3th. — Crossed  the  river  on  a  bridge  of  boats  that  had  been 
erected  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Lord  Sahib,  as  the  natives 
call  the  Governor- General. 

They  say  there  are  about  eleven  thousand  people  with  the 
camp,  and  elephants  and  camels  innumerable,  which,  added  to  the 
Body  guard,  Artillery,  and  Infantry,  form  an  immense  multitude. 
It  is  said  his  Lordship's  marching  about  the  country  costs  the  Go- 
vernment 70,000  rupees  a  month  ;  the  encampment  encroaching 
on  fields  of  grain  often  costs  from  300  to  400  rupees  a  day  to 
make  up  the  loss  sustained  by  the  peasants.  On  the  other  side 
the  bridge,  the  road  was  marked  out  by  little  flags, — and  a  most 
heartbreaking  road  it  was  ;  entirely  through  the  dry  bed  of  the 
river,  nearly  axle  deep  in  fine  sand  :  the  day  was  bitterly  cold, 
the  wind  very  high,  and  the  flying  sand  filled  our  eyes  and 
mouths.  I  was  too  unwell  to  mount  my  horse,  and  the  result 
was  that  the  two  greys  had  to  drag  me  the  whole  way  in  the 
Stanhope.  The  first  thing  I  discovered  was  my  ay  ha  in  her  cart 
fixed  in  the  sand,  and  quite  immovable.  Some  soldiers  came 
forward  and  helped  her  out  of  her  difficulty.  All  the  Company's 
hackeries  had  come  to  an  anchor.  The  soldiers,  finding  the 
bullocks  had  no  power  to  extricate  them  from  the  sand,  took  out 
the  animals,  and  harnessed  themselves,  some  thirty  or  forty  men 
to  each  cart,  and  dragged  it  until  it  reached  better  ground. 

I  came  up  to  my  tent  at  Imrutpur,  and  found  it  was  pitched 
close  to  the  lines  of  the  camp  of  the  Governor- General ;  this 
could  not  be  altered  at  the  time,  the  other  tent  not  having 
come  up,  and  being  ill  I  laid  down  to  rest.  The  other  tent 
did  not  come  up  until  it  was  too  late  to  pitch  it ;  and  in  the 
evening  I  was  annoyed  at  finding  I  was  within  the  rules  of  the 


184  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

camp,  within  the  sentries,  which  I  had  given  strict  orders  to 
avoid,  and  which  my  people  had  disobeyed  by  mistake  when 
pitching  the  tent  during  the  night.  Indeed,  the  long  march 
over  the  sand  of  the  river  had  harassed  them,  and  when  it  is 
particularly  cold,  the  natives  are  more  stupid  than  usual. 

\4th. — I  was  quite  ill,  and  much  inclined  to  give  up  my 
journey  altogether,  but  as  my  tent  was  pitched  within  the  rules, 
I  got  up  very  early,  had  the  other  tent  pitched  without  the 

rules,  went   into  it,  and  struck  the   former.     Captain  C 

wrote  to  mention  it  had  been  observed  that  the  tent  had  been 
pitched  within  the  line  of  sentries,  and  to  request  I  would  give 
orders  to  my  khalasis  to  prevent  the  recurrence  of  the  circum- 
stance.    I  therefore  determined  to  change  my  route ;  and  a  note 

having    come    from   Mrs.  H ,    saying   their   party    having 

quitted  the  great  camp  were  going  to  AUigarh,  and  requesting 
me  to  join  them,  I  accepted  the  invitation  with  great  pleasure. 

I9th. — Finished  a  march  of  fifteen  miles  before  half-past  eight 
A.M. ;  halted  at  Nawabgunge  ;  breakfasted  with  my  friends ;  a 
most  kind  welcome,  a  bright  fire,  and  an  excellent  breakfast, 
made  me  quite  happy.  The  formality  of  the  great  camp  I  had 
just  quitted  formed  a  strong  contrast  to  the  gaiety  and  cheerful- 
ness of  marching  under  the  flag  of  the  Resident  of  Gwalior. 

23rd. — We  arrived  at  Khasgunge,  and  encamped  in  the 
Mango  Tope  just  beyond  the  village.  After  breakfast,  I  drove 
four  miles  to  see  Mr.  James  Gardner,  who  had  succeeded  to  his 
father's  property,  and  was  living  at  his  house.  I  found  the  place 
quite  deserted ;  Mr.  Gardner  was  at  one  of  his  villages  some  miles 
off,  but  his  wife,  Mulka  Begam,  was  at  home.  I  sent  word  I  would 
pay  my  respects  to  her  if  she  could  receive  me.  In  the  mean  time 
I  went  into  the  garden,  and  visited  all  those  spots  where  I  had  so 
often  enjoyed  the  society  of  my  dear  friend  Colonel  Gardner. 
The  pavihon  in  the  centre  of  the  garden,  in  which  I  had  nursed 
him  when  he  was  so  ill,  recalled  to  mind  the  conversation  we 
then  had,  which  ended  in  his  taking  me  to  the  tomb  of  his  son 
just  beyond  the  garden  ;  we  sat  on  that  tomb,  and  the  dear  old 
man  said,  pointing  to  the  spot,  "  I  wish  to  be  buried  there,  by 
the  side  of  my  son ;  another  year  will  not  pass  ere  I  shall  be 


THE    TOMBS    OF    COLONEL    GARDNER    AND    HIS    BEGAM.         185 

placed  there ;  you  are  very  kind  in  trying  to  persuade  me,  my 
dear  daughter,  that  I  have  still  many  years  before  me,  but  I  feel 
I  am  going,  my  constitution  is  gone ;  it  is  well  that  with  old 
age  we  feel  all  these  pains  and  the  ills  that  accompany  it ;  were 
it  not  so,  we  should  never  be  willing  to  quit  this  world."  Our 
conversation  lasted  some  time,  afterwards  he  took  my  arm,  and 
we  returned  slowly  to  the  house.  I  visited  his  grave :  his  son 
had  raised  a  tomb  on  the  spot  selected  by  his  father  ;  it  was  not 
quite  finished.  I  knelt  at  the  grave  of  my  kind,  kind  friend, 
and  wept  and  prayed  in  deep  affliction.  His  Begam  had  only 
survived  him  a  few  days.  She  was  buried  in  the  same  tomb, 
with  her  head  to  Mecca,  towards  which  place  the  face  of  a  true 
believer  is  always  turned  when  laid  in  the  grave.  The  corpse 
of  a  Muhammadan  is  laid  on  its  back  in  the  grave,  with  the 
head  to  the  north  and  feet  to  the  south,  turning  its  face  towards 
the  kibla  (or  Mecca,  i.  e.  west).  The  Shi'as  make  their  tombs 
for  men  of  the  same  shape  as  the  Sunnis  make  those  for 
females ;  and  for  women  like  those  of  the  Sunnis  for  men,  but 
with  a  hollow,  or  basin,  in  the  centre  of  the  upper  part. 

Mulka  Begam  received  me  very  kindly ;  she  showed  me  her 
little  girl,  the  youngest,  about  two  years  old,  whom  she  said  was 
reckoned  very  like  me.  The  child  was  shy,  and  clung  to 
her  ayha,  frightened  at  a  stranger ;  I  could  scarcely  catch  a 
glimpse  of  her  face.  The  eldest  boy  was  from  home  with  his 
father ;  the  second  son,  William  Linnaeus,  so  called  after  his 
grandfather,  was  at  home ;  he  is  a  very  fine,  inteUigent  boy.     I 

requested  leave  to  bring  Mrs.  H to  pay  her  a  visit  that 

evening,  and  then  asking  permission  to  depart,  I  returned  to  the 
tents.  In  the  evening,  our  party  set  off  for  Khasgunge :  we 
walked  in  the  garden,  and  visited  the  tomb.  Major  Sutherland 
spoke  of  Colonel  Gardner  as  a  most  gallant  officer,  and  recorded 
several  most  dashing  actions  in  which  he  had  distinguished 
himself  in  many  parts  of  the  country ;  gallantry  that  had  not 
met  the  recompense  due  to  it  from  Government ;— the  value  of  a 
spint  such  as  Colonel  Gardner's  had  not  been  properly  appre- 
ciated by  the  rulers  of  the  land. 

When  the  evening  closed  in,  the  gentlemen  went  into  the  outer 


186  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

house,  and  I  took  Mrs.  H into  the  zenana  :  as  dark  beauties 

always  look  best  by  candle-light,  I  had  selected  a  late  hour  to 
visit  the  Begam ;  she  was  sitting  on  her  gaddl  when  we  went  in, 
surrounded  by  her  three  beautiful  children,  and  was  in  herself  a 
picture.  The  little  girl,  my  likeness,  had  lost  all  her  shyness, 
and  was  figuring  about  like  a  dancing  girl ;  on  remarking  the 
extraordinary  change  from  shyness  to  such  violent  spirits, 
Mulka  said,  "  She  has  had  some  opium,  that  makes  her  so 
fearless."  We  sat  an  hour  with  the  Begam,  and  then  took 
our  leave.  We  found  the  gentlemen  in  the  outer  house, 
sitting  over  a  warm  fire,  and  an  excellent  dinner  of  native 
dishes  was  ready ;  having  dined,  we  returned  by  torch-light  to 
the  tents. 

My  friends  were  much  gratified  with  their  visit  to  Khasgunge  ; 
I  had  spoken  so  warmly  of  the  beauty  of  Mulka  Begam,  that  I 

was  pleased  to  find   Mrs.    H admired  equally  both   her 

person  and  manners. 

25th. — Our  morning  march  was  thus  :  Mr.  H ,  Major 

Sutherland  and  myself  on  horseback ;  Mrs.  H in  a  palanquin- 
carriage,  that  rivalled  Noah's  ark  ;  it  held  herself,  three  children, 
three  ayhas,  two  dogs,  and  packages  without  number  ;  four  good 
Arab  horses  had  hard  work  to  pull  it  six  miles  over  such  roads : 
the  rest  of  the  march  was  performed  in  buggies,  with  a  relay  of 
horses  on  the  road.  Major  Sutherland,  on  his  beautiful  Arab, 
used  to  fly  over  the  country  in  true  Pindaree  style ;  some  of  his 
Arabs  I  coveted  exceedingly.  In  the  evening  the  gentlemen 
took  their  guns  ;  no  game  was  to  be  found, — the  land  was  gene- 
rally perfectly  bare,  not  a  blade  of  grass, — the  game  had  perished 
for  want  of  food.  The  whole  country  around  Zezaree  was  very 
flat  and  uninteresting ;  the  only  picturesque  object  we  could 
find  during  these  evening  rambles  was  an  old  well ;  these  wells 
we  used  to  seek  out  and  peer  into  as  if  we  belonged  to  the 
Thuggee  department,  and  were  searching  for  dead  bodies.  Our 
life  in  tents  was  very  agreeable,  and  I  believe  the  whole  party 
were  sorry  the  next  march  would  bring  us  to  Alligarh,  and 
once  more  into  the  form  and  stupidity  of  life  in  a  house ;  for 
myself,  the  idea  of  having  any  roof  over  my  head  but  that  of  a 


THE    FORT    OF    ALLIGARH.  187 

tent  fell  like  a  nightmare  on  my  spirits ;  and  the  giving  up 
himting  for  old  wells  was  a  complete  sacrifice. 

26th. — Arrived  at  AUigarh ;   were  kindly  welcomed  by  Mr. 

and  Mrs.  H ,  and  pitched  our  tents  in  the  Compound ;  in 

the  evening  we  visited  the  fort,  rendered  famous  for  the  gallant 
style  in  which  it  was  taken,  in  Lord  Lake's  time,  from  General 
Perron.  The  fort  was  strong,  and  surrounded  by  a  fine  ditch  ; 
to  have  approached  it  in  a  regular  manner  would  have  taken  a 

month.     A  party  of  the  regiment  had  a  skirmish  with 

some  of  the  men  belonging  to  the  fort ;  as  these  men  retreated 
over  the  first  bridge  the  English  fought  with,  and  entered  the  first 
gate  with  them.  When  within  the  gate  they  were  exposed 
to  a  heavy  fire  on  every  side  ;  just  under  a  large  peepul  tree, 
close  to  the  gate,  six  of  the  officers  were  killed  ;  the  rest  crossed 
the  second  bridge,  and  fixed  their  ladders  on  the  wall ;  but  by 
their  own  ladders  the  enemy  descended  upon  them.  After 
dreadful  slaughter,  the  second  gate  was  entered,  and  the  English 
took  possession  of  the  fort. 

General  M was  wounded  in  the  assault,  and  obliged  to 

retire ;  it  was  fortunate  for  his  memory  he  was  an  actor  in  one 
scene  of  gallantry,  for  his  after-conduct  gave  rise  to  a  song  that 
is  known  to  every  sepahi  in  the  service. 

"  Ha'thi  par  howda 
Ghore  par  zin 
Jaldi  bhagiya 
Gen'ral  Monsin." 

The  English  lowered  the  walls  of  the  fort,  but  left  one  small 
portion  standing,  to  show  their  great  original  height.  The  fort 
formerly  had  but  one  entrance,  which  opened  on  the  ditch  ;  the 
English  built  another  gate  on  the  opposite  side,  and  another 
bridge  across  the  ditch ;  the  place  was  kept  in  repair  for  a  short 
time,  but  is  now  in  ruins.  Within  the  fort,  on  the  right,  is  a 
model  of  the  ground  plan.  I  only  regret  I  cannot  very  well 
remember  all  that  was  told  me  at  the  time  in  the  most  animated 
manner  by  Major  Sutherland,  who,  himself  a  distinguished 
oflScer,  was  greatly  interested  in  the  Fort  of  AUigarh. 


188  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

2Tth. — Our  party  drove  to  the  race-stand,  to  see  the  horses 
that   are   in   training  for  the   races :    certainly,    Botanist   and 

Faustus,   two  very  fine  Arabs,  belonging  to  Mr.   B ,  are 

beautiful  creatures.  In  the  evening  we  visited  a  house  and 
garden,  formerly  the  property  of  General  Perron,  now  in  the 
possession  of  Major  Derridon,  who  married  his  sister. 

Major  Cureton,  of  the  16th  Lancers,  dined  with  us  ;  we  had  a 
long  conversation  about  the  old  regiment;  he  told  me  the  16th 
had  sent  Mr.  Blood  a  present  of  a  silver  shield.  How  much  the 
old  man  will  feel  and  value  the  honour  conferred  upon  him  by 
his  regiment ! 

2d>th. — Visited  Mr.  B 's  stud  to  see  his  beautiful  Arabs  : 

in  the  evening  we  went  to  the  tomb  of  the  officers  who  fell  at 
the  taking  of  the  Fort ;  eight  of  them  are  buried  there,  and  a 
monument  is  erected  to  their  memory.  Thence  we  went  to  a 
Masjid,  situated  on  a  hill  in  the  town, — a  very  picturesque  object 
from  a  distance.  At  its  side  is  the  ruin  of  a  very  old  Kos 
Minar,  which  is  remarkable.  Rain  threatened,  the  clouds  were 
black  and  heavy,  the  thunder  rolled,  but  only  a  few,  a  very  few 
drops  descended.  Without  rain  all  the  crops  now  above  ground 
will  perish,  and  the  famine  wall  continue. 

2^th. — With  regret  I  separated  this  day  from  the  party,  to 
pursue  my  route  alone  to  Meerut,  they  to  take  the  opposite 

direction  to  Muttra,  Gwalior,  and  Agra :  Mr.  H and  Miss 

B accompanied  me  the  first  six  miles  on  the  march.     How 

curious  appeared  the  solitude  of  my  tents  away  from  the  happy 
party  I  had  quitted !  yet  I  enjoyed  the  quiet,  the  silence,  and 
the  being  alone  once  more. 

<iOth. — Encamped  at  Koorjah ;  a  tufan  of  wind  and  sand 
all  day ;  no  grass  to  be  had  or  seen,  the  earth  all  dried  up. 
In  the  Faquir's  Baghlcha  is  a  picturesque  tomb  and  ruined 
mosque. 

Z\st. — Encamped  at  Bulandsher ;  quitted  the  good  Delhi  road 
to  turn  to  Meerut ;  the  wind  very  high,  and  miserably  cold,  the 
sand  flying  like  dust,  covering  every  thing  in  the  tent,  and 
filling  my  eyes.  The  servants  annoyed  me  by  disobeying  orders ; 
the  food  was  bad, — the  Arab's  saddle  wrung  his  back, — everj' 


MEETING    OF    OI-D    FRIENDS.  189 

thing  went  wrong.  What  a  distance  I  have  marched !  how 
generally  barren,  flat,  and  uninteresting  the  country  has  been ! 
I  saw  a  very  fine  banyan  tree  a  day  or  two  ago,  but  the  general 
face  of  the  country  is  a  sandy  plain,  interspersed  with  a  few 
green  fields  near  the  wells,  and  topes  of  mango  trees  :  in  one  of 
these  topes  my  tent  is  pitched  to-day.  My  beautiful  dog  Nero 
is  dead.  What  folly  in  this  climate  to  be  fond  of  any  thing ! — it 
is  sure  to  come  to  an  untimely  end. 

Feb.  3rd. — Encamped  at  Kerkowdah  ;  at  this  spot  my  rela- 
tive,  Capt.  E.   S ,   met  me,  to  conduct  me  to  his  house  at 

Meerut.  How  changed  we  were  !  our  first  impulse  was  to  laugh 
at  each  other  ;  when  last  we  met  we  were  happy  young  creatures, 
playing  at  games  of  every  sort  on  the  lawn  at  Somerford  Booths. 
Our  voices,  the  expression  of  our  countenances,  were,  perhaps, 
the  same ;  in  other  respects  the  alteration  was  so  great,  how 
could  we  help  laughing  at  each  other  ? 

4th. — Arrived  at  Meerut,  pitched  my  tents  in  the  Compound, 
i.  e.  the  grounds  around  the  house. 

6th. — The  Governor-General  and  the  Camp  arrived. 

7th. — Attended  a  ball  given  by  the  ofiicers  of  the  artillery  to 
the  Governor- General ;  Lord  Auckland  and  the  Misses  Eden 
were  gracious,  and  had  I  not  been  suffering  from  illness,  I  should 
have  enjoyed  the  party. 

9th. — Drove  to  the  Suraj  Kund,  or  Spring  of  the  Sun,  a  re- 
markably large  tank  ;  a  little  further  on  are  a  great  number  of 
sat!  mounds  of  peculiar  construction.  In  the  evening  attended 
a  ball,  given  by  the  station  to  the  Governor-General  and  his 
party. 

\2th. — Dined  with  General   and  Mrs.  R to   meet   the 

Governor-General  and  his  party ;  the  dinner  was  given  in  one 
great  tent,  which  held  eighty  guests  at  table.  In  the  evening 
the  party  went  to  a  ball  given  by  the  Buffs  to  the  Governor- 
General  ;  the  room  was  gay  and  well-lighted,  ornamented  with 
rays  of  steel,  formed  of  bayonets  and  ramrods ;  a  sort  of  throne 
was  decorated  with  the  colours  of  the  regiment  for  the  Governor- 
General.  The  dancing  was  carried  on  with  spirit ;  the  finale  an 
excellent  supper. 


190  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Mr.  W invited  me  to  Lahore,  to  witness  the  meeting  of 

the  Governor-General  and  Runjeet  Singh.  I  promised  to  accept 
the  invitation,  if  in  that  part  of  the  world  in  November,  but  I 

fear  I  shall  be  far  distant.     Captain  O sent  me  three  Italian 

greyhound  pups  ;  they  dart  about  in  the  most  amusing  manner. 
I  hope  the  little  delicate  creatures  will  live.  Wishing  to  view 
the  ruins  of  Delhi,  I  sent  off  my  tents  one  march  to  await  me. 
In  the  evening  I  went  to  the  theatre,  to  see  the  performance  of 
the  privates  of  the  artillery.  The  men  built  their  own  theatre, 
painted  their  own  scenes,  and  are  themselves  the  performers. 
The  scenery  is  excellent,  the  house  crowded ;  the  men  acted 
remarkably  well ;  and  the  ladies,  strapping  artillery  men,  six  feet 
high,  were  the  cause  of  much  laughter.  A  letter  from  Alla- 
habad informed  me,  "the  12th  of  January  was  one  of  the  great 
bathing  days,  the  river  and  its  banks  were  covered  with  the 
pilgrims ;  for  days  and  days  we  saw  them  passing  in  one  almost 
continued  line,  very  few  rich  people  amongst  them,  principally 
the  lower  orders.  There  is  no  tax  now  levied  by  the  Govern- 
ment, but  an  officer  is  sent  down  with  a  guard  as  usual.  There 
was  a  storm  in  the  morning,  and  the  rain  had  been  pouring  ever 
since.  The  poor  creatures  now  on  their  way  in  thousands  for 
to-morrow's  bathing  will  suffer  dreadfully,  and  all  their  tamasha 
be  spoiled." 


CHAPTER   LI. 


RUINS  OF  DELHI. 


'VEDI    NArOLI,    E    POI    MORI. 


"  I'll  thank  you  for  your  name,  Sir." 

Happiness  of  being  alive — March  from  Meerut  to  Delhi — Method  of  Stealing  a 
Camel — Delhi — The  Church  —  Monument  erected  to  Wm.  Frazer,  Esq., 
B.C.S. — The  Canal  of  Paradise — Mimic  Warfare — Tomb  of  Humaioon — 
Fort  of  Feroze  Shah — Masjid  of  Zeenut  al  Nissa — Masjid  of  Roshun-ool- 
Dowla — Datisca  Cannabina — Mimosa  Scandens — Washing  by  Steam — The 
Kutub  Minar — Ancient  Colonnades — Kutub  ka  Lat — Unfinished  Minar. 

1838,  Feb. — With  the  Neapolitan  saying,  "  Vedi  Napoli,  e  poi 
mori,"  I  beg  leave  to  differ  entirely,  and  would  rather  offer  this 
advice, — "  See  the  Tajmahal,  and  then — seethe  Ruins  of  Delhi." 
How  much  there  is  to  delight  the  eye  in  this  bright,  this  beautiful 
world  !  Roaming  about  with  a  good  tent  and  a  good  Arab,  one 
might  be  happy  for  ever  in  India :  a  man  might  possibly  enjoy 
this  sort  of  life  more  than  a  woman  ;  he  has  his  dog,  his  gun, 
and  his  beaters,  with  an  open  country  to  shoot  over,  and  is  not 
annoyed  with — "  I'll  thank  you  for  your  name.  Sir."  I  have  a 
pencil  instead  of  a  gun,  and  believe  it  affords  me  satisfaction 
equal,  if  not  greater  than  the  sportsman  derives  from  his 
Manton. 


192  WANDERINGS   OF    A    FILGRUf. 

On  my  return  from  the  theatre  I  sought  my  charpal,  and 
slept — Oh,  how  soundly ! — was  dressed,  and  on  my  horse  by 
6  A.M.,  having  enjoyed  four  hours  and  a  half  of  perfect  rest. 
"  Sleep  is  the  repose  of  the  soul '."  I  awoke  from  my  slumber 
perfectly  refreshed,  and  my  little  soul  was  soon  cantering  away 
on  the  back  of  an  Arab,  enjoying  the  pure,  cool,  morning  breeze. 
Oh !  the  pleasure  of  vtigabondizing  over  India ! 

IQth. — We  rode  part  of  the  distance,  and  drove  the  remainder 
of  the  march,  sixteen  miles  ;  found  the  tents  ready,  and  the 
khidmatgars  on  the  look  out.  Took  a  breakfast  such  as  hungry 
people  eat,  and  then  retired  to  our  respective  tents.  The  fatigue 
was  too  much ;  the  novel  dropped  from  my  hand,  and  my  sleepy 
little  soul  sank  to  repose  for  some  hours. 

When  the  sun  was  nearly  down,  we  roamed  over  the  fields 
with  the  gentlemen  and  their  guns,  but  found  no  game.  Thus 
passed  the  day  of  the  first  march  on  the  road  to  Delhi  at 
Begamabad. 

17 th. — Arrived  early  at  Furrudnagar,  another  long  distance  ; 
a  high  wind,  clouds  of  dust,  and  a  disagreeable  day.  During 
the  night  the  servants  were  robbed  of  all  their  brass  lotas  and 
cooking  utensils.  A  thief  crept  up  to  my  camels,  that  were 
picketed  just  in  front  of  the  tent,  selected  the  finest,  cut  the 
rope  and  strings  from  his  neck  ;  then,  having  fastened  a  very 
long  thin  rope  to  the  animal,  away  crept  the  thief.  Having  got 
to  the  end  of  the  line,  the  thief  gave  the  string  a  pull,  and  con- 
tinued doing  so  until  he  rendered  the  camel  uneasy  ;  the  animal 
got  up, — another  pull — he  turned  his  head,  another — and  he 
quietly  followed  the  twitching  of  the  cord  that  the  thief  held  ; 
who  succeeded  in  separating  him  from  the  other  camels,  and  got 
him  some  twenty  yards  from  the  tent ;  just  at  this  moment  the 
sentry  observed  the  camel  quietly  departing,  he  gave  the  alarm, 
the  thief  fled,  and  the  animal  was  brought  back  to  the  camp  ; — a 
few  yards  more  the  thief  would  have  been  on  his  back,  and  we 
should  have  lost  the  camel. 

I8th. — Marched  into  Delhi :  the  first  sight  of  the  city  from 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  120. 


K.-' 


^alacf  ant  Jfort  of  0plhi 


l}^ 


DELHI.  193 

the  sands  of  the  Jumna  is  very  imposing ;  the  fort,  the  palace, 
the  mosques  and  minarets,  all  crowded  together  on  the  bank  of 
the  river,  is  a  beautiful  sight.  "  In  the  year  of  the  Hijerah, 
1041  (a.d.  1631-2),  the  Emperor  Shah -jahan  founded  the  present 
city  and  palace  of  Shahjahanabad,  which  he  made  his  capital 
during  the  remainder  of  his  reign.  The  new  city  of  Shahjahan- 
abad lies  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Jumna,  in  latitude  28°  36' 
North.  The  city  is  about  seven  miles  in  circumference,  and  is 
surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a  wall  of  brick  and  stone ;  a 
parapet  runs  along  the  whole,  but  there  are  no  cannon  planted 
on  the  ramparts.  The  city  has  seven  gates  :  viz.,  Lahore  gate, 
Delhi  gate,  Ajimere  gate,  Turkoman  gate.  Moor  gate,  Cabul  gate. 
Cashmere  gate ;  all  of  which  are  built  of  freestone,  and  have 
handsome  arched  entrances  of  stone,  where  the  guards  of  the 
city  kept  watch." 

We  entered  the  town  by  the  Delhi  gate :  during  the  rains, 
when  the  river  flows  up  to  and  by  the  walls  of  the  city,  the  view 
from  a  boat  must  be  beautiful  ;  at  present  the  river  is  shallow, 
with  great  sand-banks  in  the  centre.  We  crossed  a  bridge  of 
boats,  and  encamped  in  front  of  the  church. 

The  church  was  built  by  Colonel  Skinner,  planned  by  Colonel 

S ;  I  do  not  like  the  design  :  it  was  put  into  execution  by 

Captain  D .     The  dome  appears  too  heavy  for  the  body  of 

the  church,  and  in  the  inside  it  is  obliged  to  be  supported  by 
iron  bars, — a  most  unsightly  affair.  A  man  should  visit  the 
ruins  of  Gaur,  and  there  learn  how  to  build  a  dome,  ere  he 
attempt  it.  Colonel  Skinner  is  a  Christian ;  the  ladies  of  his 
family  are  Musalmanis,  and  for  them  he  has  built  a  mosque  oppo- 
site the  church.  In  the  churchyard  is  the  tomb  of  Mr.  William 
Frazer,  who  was  murdered  by  the  Nawab  Shumsheodin  :  Colonel 
Skinner  has  erected  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  his  friend  ; 
it  is  of  white  marble,  in  compartments,  which  are  inlaid  with 
green  stones,  representing  the  weeping  willow  ;  the  whole  was. 
executed  at  Jeypore,  and  cost,  it  is  said,  10,000  rupees.  On  the 
top  is  a  vase,  and,  in  a  compartment  in  front  of  the  church  is  a 
Persian  inscription.  Below  are  these  hues,  and  in  front  of 
the  lines  are  two  lions  reposing  :    to    none   but    an    Irishman 

VOL.  11.  o 


194  WANDERINGS    Ol'    A    PILGRIM. 

would  it  be  clear  that  the  us  in  the  epitaph  proceeds  from  the 
lions : — 

"  Deep  beneath  this  marble  stone 
A  kindred  spirit  to  our  own 
Sleeps  in  death's  profound  repose, 
Freed  from  human  cares  and  woes ; 
Like  us  his  heart,  like  ours  his  frame, 
He  bore  on  earth  a  gallant  name. 
Friendship  gives  to  us  the  trust 
To  guard  the  hero's  honour'd  dust." 

On  the  other  side  the  monument  is  another  inscription,  also 
written  by  Colonel  Skinner. 

THE    REMAINS 

INTERRED    BENEATH    THIS    MONUMENT 

WERE    ONCE    ANIMATED 

BY    AS    BRAVB    AND    SINCERE 

A    SOUL 

AS    WAS    EVER    VOUCHSAFED    TO    MAN 

BY    HIS 

Creator ! 

A    brother    in    FRIENDSHIP 

HAS    CAUSED    IT    TO    BE    ERECTED, 

THAT,    WHEN    HIS    OWN    FRAME    IS    DUST, 

IT    MAY    REMAIN 

AS    A 

MEMORIAL 

FOR    THOSE    WHO    CAN    PARTICIPATE    IN    LAMENTING 

THE    SUDDEN    AND    MELANCHOLY    LOSS 

OF    ONE 

DEAR    TO    HIM    AS    LIFE. 

WILLIAM    FRAZER 

DIED    MARCH    22nD,    1835. 

In  the  evening  the  brother  of  the  Baiza  Ba'i,  Hindu  Rao, 
sent  me  an  elephant,  and  Colonel  Skinner  sent  another ;  on 
these  we  mounted,  and  went  through  all  the  principal  streets  of 
the  city.  Dehli  or  Dilll,  the  metropolis  of  Hindustan,  is  gene- 
rally called  by  Musalmiins  Shiih-jahan-abad,  and,  by  Europeans, 
Delhi.  The  Chandnl  chauk,  a  very  broad  and  handsome  street, 
is  celebrated ;  it  has  a  canal  that  runs  through  and  down  the 
centre  of  it ;  but  such  is  the  demand  for  water,  that  not  a  drop 


THE    CANAL    OF    PARADISE.  195 

now  reaches  Delhi,  it  being  drawn  off"  for  the  u'rigation  of  the 
country,  ere  it  arrive  at  the  city.  This  fine  stream  is  called 
Nahr-i-Bihisht,  or  "  Canal  of  Paradise."  "  In  the  reign  of 
Shah-jahan,  Ah  Merdan  Khan,  a  nobleman,  dug,  at  his  own 
expense,  a  canal,  from  the  vicinity  of  the  city  of  Panniput,  near 
the  head  of  the  Doo-ab,  to  the  suburbs  of  Delhi ; — a  tract  of 
ninety  miles  in  extent.  This  noble  canal  is  called  by  the  natives 
the  '  Canal  of  Paradise,'  and  runs  from  north  to  south,  in 
general  about  ten  miles  distant  from  the  Jumna,  until  it  joins 
that  river  nine  miles  below  the  city  of  New  Delhi :  it  yielded 
formerly  fourteen  lakh  of  rupees  per  annum.  At  present  it 
is  out  of  repair,  and  in  many  places  almost  destroyed." 

As  we  went  round  the  Jama  Masjid,  a  fine  mosque,  I  thought 
of  the  words  of  the  Prophet, — "  Masjids  are  the  gardens  of 
Paradise,  and  the  praises  of  God  the  fruit  thereof"  On  the 
high  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the  mosque  were  hundreds  of 
people  in  gay  dresses,  bargaining  for  cloth,  sweetmeats,  &c. 

The  inhabitants  of  Delhi  appear  to  delight  in  dresses  of  the 
gayest  colours,  and  picturesque  effiect  is  added  to  every  scene  by 
their  graceful  attire.  Native  gentlemen  of  rank,  attended  by 
large  sawdrts  (retinues)  on  horseback,  on  elephants,  or  on 
camels,  are  met  at  every  turn,  rendering  the  scene  very 
amusing  and  animated.  Nevertheless,  in  spite  of  all  this 
apparent  splendour,  a  proverb  is  used  to  express  the  vanity 
and  indigence  prevalent  in  that  city  : — "  Dilll  ke  dilwiill  raunh 
chikna  pet  khali ;"  "  The  inhabitants  of  Dihli  appear  to  be  opu- 
lent, when,  in  fact,  they  are  starving."  A  little  beyond  the 
Jama  Masjid  is  the  wall  of  the  palace, — a  most  magnificent 
wall ;  I  was  delighted  with  it  and  its  gateways.  Shortly  after- 
wards we  turned  our  elephants  towards  the  tents,  and  returned, 
considerably  fatigued,  to  dinner. 

\9th. — This  morning  we  had  decided  on  visiting  the  tomb  of 
Humaioon,  but,  on  mounting  our  horses,  hearing  firing  at  a 
distance,  we  rode  off"  to  see  what  amusement  was  going  forward, 
leaving  the  visit  to  the  tomb  for  another  day.  It  was  lucky  we 
did  so,  I  would  not  on  any  account  have  missed  the  scene.  We 
galloped  away,  to  save  time,  and  found  Lord  Auckland  and  his 

(J  2 


196  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

party  at  a  review ;  after  looking  at  the  review  a  short  time, 

Captain  S ,  himself  an  engineer,  took   me  to  see  a  very 

interesting  work :  the  sappers  and  miners  had  erected  a  mud- 
fort  ;  trenches  were  regularly  formed  in  front  of  the  fort,  to 
cover  the  attacking  party,  and  mines  were  formed  underground 
to   a  considerable  distance.       We  walked    through   the  long 

galleries,  which  were  all  lighted  up,  and  Captain  S explained 

the  whole  to  me.  On  our  return.  Lord  Auckland  came  up, 
examined  the  fort,  and  walked  through  the  miners'  galleries. 
The  attack  commenced,  the  great  guns  blazed  away  at  the 
bastion,  which  was  blown  up  in  good  style  by  the  miners  ;  the 
soldiers  mounted  the  breach  and  took  the  fort,  whilst,  on  the 
right,  it  was  scaled  by  another  party.  This  mimic  war  was  very 
animated  ;  I  like  playing  at  soldiers,  and  it  gave  me  an  excellent 
idea  of  an  attack,  without  the  horror  of  the  reality  :  another 
mine  was  sprung,  and  the  warfare  ended.  The  sun  was  high 
and  very  hot, — we  rode  home  as  fast  as  our  horses  could  carry 
us, — only  stopping  on  the  top  of  a  rocky  hill  near  the  late 
Mr.  Frazer's  house,  to  admire  the  view  of  Delhi,  which  lay  below 
a  mass  of  minarets  and  domes,  interspersed  with  fine  trees. 
Near  this  spot  Mr.  Frazer  was  shot.  The  house  was  bought  by 
Hindu  Rao  for  20,000  rupees.  Out  of  this  rocky  hill  a  sort  of 
red  gravel  is  dug,  which  forms  the  most  beautiful  roads. 

After  breakfast  we  struck  our  tents,  and  came  to  stay  with  a 
friend,  who  has  a  fine  house  in  beautiful  grounds,  with  a 
garden  filled  to  profusion  with  the  gayest  flowers,  situated  just 
beyond  the  Cashmere  gate  of  the  city.  Colonel  Edward  Smith, 
of  the  engineers,  deserves  great  credit  for  the  style  and  good 
taste  he  has  displayed  in  the  architecture  of  this  gate  of  Delhi, 
and  for  several  other  buildings  which  were  pointed  out  to  me  as 
of  his  design  in  other  parts  of  the  city.  We  found  the  tents 
very  hot  within  the  walls,  with  flies  innumerable,  like  the  plague 
of  Egypt ;  at  least,  they  must  be  quite  as  bad  during  the  hot 
season.  In  the  evening  we  went  to  a  ball,  given  by  Mr.  Metcalfe 
to  the  Governor-General  and  his  party. 

20th. — The  ball  gave  me  a  head-ache,  and  I  was  suffering  a 
good  deal  of  pain,  when  a  native  lady  came  to  see  me,  on  the 


MAUSOLEUM    OF    HUMAIOON.  197 

part  of  the  Nawab  Shah  Zamanee  Begam,  the  Emperor's 
unmarried  sister,  from  whom  she  brought  a  comphmentary 
message,  and  a  request  that  I  would  call  upon  her  at  the  palace. 
The  lady,  finding  me  in  pain,  most  kindly  shampooed  and  mulled 
my  forehead  so  delightfully,  that  my  head -ache  was  charmed 
away  ; — shampooing  is  the  great  luxury  of  the  East. 

MAUSOLEUM    OF    HUMAIOON. 

In  the  evening  we  drove  through  the  ruins  of  old  Delhi  to 
the  tomb  of  the  Emperor  Humaioon.  The  drive  is  most  inte- 
resting ;  you  cannot  turn  your  eye  in  any  direction  but  you  are 
surrounded  by  ruins  of  the  most  picturesque  beauty.  The  tomb 
of  Humaioon  is  a  fine  massive  building,  well  worth  visiting  :  it 
is  kept  in  good  repair.  There  are  several  monuments  within 
the  chambers  of  the  mausoleum  that  are  of  carved  white  marble. 
The  tomb  of  the  Emperor  is  very  plain,  and  without  any  inscrip- 
tion. On  the  terrace  is  a  very  elegant  white  marble  monument, 
richly  carved,  of  peculiar  construction,  over  the  remains  of  a 
Begam.  The  different  and  extensive  views  from  the  terrace  over 
the  ruins  of  old  Delhi  are  very  beautiful. 

Captain  William  Franklin  gives  the  following  description  of 
this  mausoleum : — 

"  The  tomb  of  Humaioon,  the  son  of  Baber,  the  second  of 
the  imperial  house  of  Timur,  was  erected  by  his  son  Akbar,  on 
the  western  bank  of  the  Jumna,  in  the  old  city  of  Delhi. 

"  The  terrace,  which  is  of  red  stone,  is  two  thousand  feet  in 
circumference.  The  mausoleum,  which  is  also  of  red  stone, 
rises  from  this  terrace.  It  is  of  circular  form,  surmounted  by  a 
stupendous  dome  of  white  marble.  Conspicuous  from  its 
dimensions,  this  dome  is  seen  from  a  great  distance.  Four 
minarets  of  red  and  white  marble  support  the  extremities  of  the 
building.  These  are  crowned  with  octagonal  pavilions  of  red 
stone,  having  marble  cupolas.  I  judge  the  height  to  be  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  A  winding  staircase  of  red  stone 
leads  to  a  terrace,  which  encircles  the  exterior  of  the  dome : 
hence  you  have  a  noble  prospect,  both  of  old  and  new  Delhi. 
"The  principal  room  below  is  paved  with  large  slabs  of  white 


198  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

marble.  It  contains  the  tomb  of  Humaioon,  of  the  common 
size,  but  elegantly  decorated  with  chisel  work.  It  bears  no 
inscription.  Adjoining  to  this  room  are  other  apartments,  in 
which  are  interred  several  princesses  of  the  house  of  Timur. 

"  Upon  the  terrace  before-mentioned  are  the  graves  of  five 
princes  of  the  royal  family  ;  viz.,  Darah  Shekoah,  who  was  put 
to  death  by  the  order  of  his  brother  Aurunzebe  ;  2nd,  Mooiza- 
deen,  or  Jahandar  ;  3rdly,  Shah  Furrukseir,  put  to  death  by  the 
Seyuds  ;  4thly,  Beedar  Bukht ;  and  5thly,  Azim  Shah,  son  of 
Aurunzebe.  Near  them  is  the  grave  of  the  late  emperor,  the 
second  Aulumgeer. 

"  About  two  hundred  yards  from  this  mausoleum,  is  that  of 
the  famous  Khan  Khanan,  prime  minister  of  Jehangeer,  and 
son  of  the  renowned  Byram  Khan,  remarkable  for  contributing 
in  so  great  a  degree,  during  the  successive  reigns  of  Humaioon, 
Akbar,  and  Jehangeer,  to  establish  the  house  of  Timur  on  the 
throne  of  Hindostan.  The  tomb  resembles,  both  in  size  and 
shape,  that  of  the  Nawab  Suftar  Jung." 

On  our  return,  we  visited  the  old  Fort  of  Delhi.  The 
guide  pointed  out  to  us  a  building,  which  he  called  a  khwab 
khana,  or  sleeping  apartment ;  from  this  building  Humaioon  fell 
by  accident,  and  was  killed. 

The  mosque  in  the  Fort  attracted  our  admiration ;  it  is  a 
beautiftil  building.  Passing  out  at  the  other  gate  brought  us 
opposite  to  the  Lall  Durwaza,  the  carriage  was  in  waiting,  and 
I  returned  home. 

KOTILA    OF    FEROZE    SHAH. 

Feb.  2\st. — We  mounted  our  horses  and  rode  to  a  ruin, 
beyond  the  Delhi  Gate,  called  the  Kotila  of  Feroze  Shah.  This 
is  an  old  Fort  completely  in  ruins.  In  the  centre  some  arches 
still  remain,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  platform,  on  which 
is  erected  a  Idt,  a  pillar  of  a  single  stone  of  great  height, 
♦'which  is  said  to  be  of  granite  ;  a  number  of  inscriptions  are  on 
the  pillar.  It  measures  at  the  base  upwards  of  twelve  feet 
in  circumference.  The  top  is  broken,  apparently  shivered  by 
lightning. 


KOTILA    OF    FEROZE    SHAH.  199 

The  following  extracts,  from  Captain  William  Franklin's 
Memoirs  of  Mr.  George  Thomas,  and  his  Visit  to  Delhi  in  1 793, 
are  interesting : — 

"  A  mile  to  the  southward  of  the  city  are  the  remains  of  the 
fort,  palace,  and  mosque  of  the  Patan  emperor,  the  first  Feroze. 
These  ruins  embrace  a  considerable  extent.  The  walls  of  the 
fort  are  of  immense  thickness,  and  the  prodigious  quantity  of 
granite,  with  other  stones,  spread  in  heaps  over  the  whole  of  the 
interior  of  the  inclosure,  denote  it  to  have  been  a  grand  and 
splendid  edifice.  This  fort  was  built  Anno  Hijirah  755,  and 
was  destroyed  by  the  Mogul  conqueror  Timoor,  in  his  invasion 
of  Hindostan.  Toward  the  centre  of  the  place,  is  a  building, 
of  an  ancient  style,  flanked  with  round  pillars,  and  crowned 
with  turrets  of  three  stories.  At  the  top  of  this  building,  on  an 
ample  terrace  of  stone,  about  forty  feet  in  height,  is  a  column 
of  brown  granite.  On  this  column  is  an  inscription,  in  the 
ancient  character  before-mentioned,  as  discernible  on  the  pillar 
in  the  Fort  of  Allahabad,  and  composed  of  the  same  materials. 
This  pillar  is  called  by  the  natives  Feroze  Cotelah,  the  staff"  of 
Feroze  ;  and  from  the  construction  of  the  building  on  which  it  is 
placed,  I  should  conjecture  it  has  been  a  monument  of  Hindoo 
grandeur  prior  to  the  irruptions  of  the  Musulmans.  Adjoin- 
ing to  the  Cotelah  is  a  very  large  building,  differing  in  the  style 
of  its  architecture  from  those  mosques  built  subsequent  to  the 
establishment  of  the  Moguls.  This  mosque  is  square,  has  four 
extensive  aisles,  or  cloisters,  the  roofs  of  which  are  stone,  and 
supported  by  two  hundred  and  fifty  columns  of  stone,  about 
sixteen  feet  high.  The  length  of  the  cloisters  gives  a  grand 
appearance  to  the  building.  An  octangular  dome  of  stone  and 
brickwork,  about  twenty-five  feet  high,  rises  from  the  centre  of 
the  mosque.  In  the  western  cloister,  is  a  kibla,  or  niche  in  the 
wall,  in  the  direction  of  Mecca.  Of  this  mosque,  the  Emperor 
Timoor  took  a  model,  and  carrying  it  with  him  on  his  return  to 
Samarcand,  his  capital,  accompanied  at  the  same  time  by  arti- 
ficers and  workmen  of  every  description,  he,  shortly  after  his 
arrival,  built  a  magnificent  temple. 

"  In  the  northern  aisle  of  this  mosque,  at  the  upper  end,  is  a 


200  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

small  window,  from  which  was  thrown  the  body  of  the  late 
Emperor  AUumgeer,  who  had  been  assassinated  at  the  instigation 
of  his  Vizier,  Gaziodeen  Khan.  The  assassins  were  two  Ma- 
homedan  devotees,  whom  he  had  invited  under  the  pretence  of 
their  working  miracles.  The  body  of  this  unfortunate  prince, 
unburied,  for  two  days  lay  on  the  sands  of  the  Jumna.  At  last 
it  was  taken  up  by  the  permission  of  Gaziodeen,  and  interred 
in  the  sepulchre  of  Humaioon.  To  me  it  appears  that  the  style 
of  building  in  this  mosque  refers  to  a  period  in  the  architecture 
of  the  Hindoos  prior  to  the  Mogul  conquests.  The  mosque  at 
Paniput,  erected  by  the  Emperor  Baber,  may  be  looked  upon  as 
the  model  of  all  the  succeeding  Mogul  buildings." 

The  Akbarabadee  Masjid,  which  we  next  visited,  is  a  large 
mosque,  not  very  remarkable  ;  perhaps  this  is  the  Masjid  of  the 
Akbarabadee  Begam,  whose  tomb  is  near  the  Taj  at  Agra. 

Thence  we  went  to  the  Zeenut-al-Masjid,  on  the  side  of  the 
Jumna,  erected  by  a  daughter  of  Aurangzeb,  by  name  Zeenut- 
al-Nissa ;  it  is  a  very  beautiful  mosque,  the  minarets  remark- 
ably elegant,  and  two  of  the  pillars  in  front  of  the  entrance, 
beautifully  carved,  are  of  elegant  form.  "It  is  of  red  stone, 
with  inlayings  of  marble,  and  has  a  spacious  terrace  in  front, 
with  a  capacious  reservoir,  faced  with  marble.  The  princess 
who  built  it,  having  decUned  entering  into  the  married  state, 
laid  out  a  large  sum  of  money  in  the  above  mosque  ;  and  on  its 
completion,  she  built  a  sepulchre  of  white  marble,  surrounded 
by  a  wall  of  the  same,  in  the  west  corner  of  the  terrace.  Here 
she  was  buried,  in  the  year  of  the  Hijerah  1122,  correspondmg 
to  the  year  of  Christ,  1710." 

We  called  on  Colonel  Skinner,  and  saw  his  sister,  an  old  lady 
very  like  her  brother,  with  a  dai-k  complexion  and  white  hair. 
The  Chandni  Chauk  is  a  fine  street,  and  its  bazar  the  best  in  the 
city;  we  rode  through  it  about  4  p.m.  ;  it  was  filled  with  crowds 
of  gaily-dressed  natives. 

MASJID    OF    ROSHAX-OOL-DOWLA. 

We  observed  with  great  interest  the  gilded  domes  of  the 
mosque   of    Roshan-ool-Dowla,    at   one    end   of  the   Chandni 


MASJID    OF    ROSHAN-OOL-DOWLA.  201 

Chauk  ;  it  is  of  the  common  size,  built  of  red  stone,  and  sur- 
mounted by  three  domes.  The  King  of  Persia  took  Dellii, 
A.D.  1739.  Nadir  Shah,  on  hearing  of  a  tumult  that  broke  out 
in  the  great  market-place,  in  which  two  thousand  Persians  were 
slain,  marched  out  at  night  with  his  men  as  far  as  this  Masjid ; 
here  he  thought  it  prudent  to  halt  until  daylight.  When  day- 
light began  to  appear,  a  person  from  a  neighbouring  terrace 
fired  upon  the  king,  and  killed  an  officer  by  his  side.  Nadir 
Shah  was  so  much  enraged,  that  although  the  tumult  had  by 
this  time  totally  subsided,  he  sent  out  his  soldiers,  and  ordered 
a  general  massacre  of  the  inhabitants.  This  order  was  executed 
with  so  much  rigour,  that  before  2  p.m.,  above  one  hundred 
thousand,  without  distinction  of  age,  sex,  or  condition,  lay  dead 
in  their  blood,  although  not  above  one-third  part  of  the  city 
was  visited  by  the  sword.  Nadir  Shah  sat  during  this  dreadful 
scene  in  the  Masjid  of  Roshan-ool-Dowla ;  none  but  slaves 
dared  approach  him.  At  length  the  unfortunate  Emperor  of 
Delhi,  attended  by  a  number  of  his  chief  omrah,  ventured  before 
him  with  downcast  eyes.  The  omrah  who  preceded  the  king, 
bowed  their  foreheads  to  the  ground.  Nadir  Shah  sternly  asked 
them  what  they  wanted  ?  They  cried  out  with  one  voice,  "  Spare 
the  city."  Muhammad  said  not  a  word,  but  the  tears  flowed 
fast  from  his  eyes.  The  tyrant,  for  once  touched  with  pity, 
sheathed  his  sword,  and  said,  "  For  the  sake  of  the  prince 
Muhammad  I  forgive."     The  massacre  was  instantly  stopped. 

Since  that  dreadful  carnage,  this  quarter  of  Delhi  has  been 
but  very  thinly  inhabited. 

An  auction  of  the  presents  that  had  been  made  to  the  Govern- 
ment having  been  advertised  to  take  place  at  a  Europe  shop  in 
Delhi,  I  went  to  the  place,  and  desired  them  to  purchase  several 
articles  for  me,  among  others  a  single  sheet  of  paper  that 
measured  forty  feet  in  length  by  nineteen  feet  and  a  half  in 
breadth.  It  is  made,  they  tell  me,  from  the  fibres  of  the  leaf, 
or  the  bark  of  a  tree,  and  is  brought  from  Almorah  and  other 
parts  of  the  hills.  Some  of  the  sheets  are  very  large  and  rather 
coarse,  others  are  smaller  and  verv  fine  ;  insects  do  not  attack 
shawls  that  are  wrapped  in  this  sort  of  paper.     An  Amadou 


202  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

made  from  the  same  fibre  is  also  brought  from  Almorah.  I 
may  here  mention  that  many  years  afterwards  I  saw,  at  the 
Asiatic  Society  in  London,  a  similar  piece  of  paper  ticketed, 
"  A  single  sheet  of  paper  measuring  sixty  feet  by  twenty-five, 
made  in  Kumaon,  from  the  inner  fibres  of  the  Set  Burrooah,  or 
Daphne-Cannabind-tree ;  presented  to  the  Asiatic  Society  by 
G.  W.  Traill,  Esq.,  1839."  Datisca  cannabina,  Hemp-like  Da- 
tisca,  Loudon. 

I  also  saw  there  an  enormous  pod  of  the  mimosa  scandens, 
a  wild  creeper ;  the  seed  is  called  gela,  and  is  used  by  natives 
chiefly  for  washing  the  hair.  The  dhobis  cut  a  hole  in  the 
centre  of  this  seed,  and  by  rubbing  it  up  and  down  on  the 
muslin  sleeves  of  native  dresses,  produce  a  sort  of  goufre,  that  is 
admired  and  worn  by  opulent  men.  Speaking  of  washermen, 
it  appears  to  me  a  most  extraordinary  thing  that  the  English 
have  never  adopted  the  Asiatic  method  of  steaming  the  clothes 
in  lieu  of  boiling  them.  The  process  of  washing  by  steam  is 
very  simple,  gives  but  little  trouble,  and  produces  the  most 
delicate  whiteness.  The  washermen  place  the  clothes  in  the 
evening  over  the  most  simple  steam  apparatus  in  the  world, 
leave  them  all  night  to  steam,  by  the  next  morning  they  are 
clean  and  fit  to  be  removed ;  when  all  that  is  necessary  is  to 
rinse  them  in  the  river,  dry,  and  iron  them.  What  a  saving  of 
expense,  time,  and  trouble  it  would  be  if  this  method  were  to 
be  adopted  in  the  public  washing-houses  in  England  ! 

21s^. — Drove  to  Sir  David  Auchterlony's  house;  there  was 
but  little  to  see  there.  Attended  a  ball  given  by  the  station  to 
the  Governor-General ;  remained  an  hour,  and  returned  early  to 
be  ready  for  our  expedition  the  next  morning. 

22nd. — Mounted  our  horses  at  day-break,  and  started  for  the 
Kutab.  Passed  the  observatory  without  visiting  it ;  stopped  to 
view  the  tomb  of  Munsoor  Ali  Khan  Sufter  Jung,  Wuzeer  of 
the  Emperor  Ahmud  Shah,  who  died  in  1753 — 1167;  it  is  a 
handsome  edifice. 

THE   KUTAB   MINAR. 

1  had  seen  many  drawings  of  this  famous  minar,  and  imagined 


THE   KUTAB   MINAR.  203 

I  had  a  perfect  idea  of  what  I  was  to  behold.  The  reality  far 
exceeded  my  expectations,  on  account  of  its  grandeur,  its  enor- 
mous height,  and  the  beauty  of  the  building.  Around  the 
Kutab  are  the  ruins  of  the  most  magnificent  arches  I  should 
think  in  the  world.  Only  one  of  these  arches  is  entire,  its 
proportions  are  very  fine  ;  a  few  years, — another  year,  perhaps, — 
and  this  beautiful  arch  will  give  way ;  the  upper  part  is  tottering 
to  its  fall  even  now.  The  Kutab  Minar  is  perhaps  so  called 
from  Kutb  the  polar  star,  as  being  particularly  distinguished  and 
attractive  of  general  attention ;  or  after  the  conqueror  of  Delhi, 
Kutab-ud-din-Ibek,  the  polar  star  of  religion ;  or  after  the 
famous  saint,  Kutb-ud-din,  whose  tomb  lies  about  half  a  mile 
s.w.  of  the  column. 

Inscriptions  on  the  Kutab  Minar,  transcribed  and  translated 
by  Walter  Ewer,  Esq. 

"  Kutub-ud-din-Ibek,  on  whom  be  the  mercy  of  God,  con- 
structed this  mosque." 

"In  the  name  of  the  most  merciful  God. — The  Lord  has 
invited  to  Paradise,  and  brings  into  the  way  of  righteousness, 
him  who  wills  it. — In  the  year  592  this  building  was  commenced 
by  the  high  command  of  Moez-ud-dunya-ul-din  Mahomad  Beni 
Jam-Nasir  Amir  Mominim." 

"  The  Sultan  Shems-ul-Hak-wa-ud-din  Altamsh  erected  this 
building." 

"  In  the  year  907  this  minar,  having  been  injured  by  light- 
ning, by  the  aid  of,  and  favour  of  God,  Firoz-mund  Yamani 
restored  whatever  was  needed  by  the  building.  May  the  Lord 
preserve  this  lofty  edifice  from  future  mischance !  " 

"  The  erection  of  this  building  was  commanded  in  the 
glorious  time  of  the  great  Sultan,  and  mighty  King  of  kings 
and  Master  of  mankind,  the  Lord  of  the  monarchs  of  Turkistan, 
Arabia,  and  Persia ;  the  Sun  of  the  world  and  rehgion,  of  the 
faith  and  the  faithful ;  the  Lord  of  safety  and  protection  ;  the 
Heir  of  the  kingdom  of  SuUman  Abul  Muzeffer  Altamsh  Nasir 
Amin-ul-Mominin. " 

"  The  prophet,  on  whom  be  the  mercy  and  peace  of  God,  has 


204  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

declared,  '  Whosoever  erects  a  temple  to  the  true  God  on  earth, 
shall  receive  six  such  dweUings  in  Paradise.' — The  Miniir,  the 
dwelling  of  the  king  of  kings,  Shems-ul-dunj'H-wa-ud-din,  now 
in  peace  and  pardon, — (be  his  tomb  protected,  and  his  place 
assigned  in  Heaven !) — was  injured  by  lightning  in  the  reign 
of  the  exalted  monarch,  Secunder,  the  son  of  Behlol — (may 
his  power  and  empire  last  for  ever,  and  his  reign  be  glorious!)  : 
and  therefore  his  slave,  Futteh  Khan,  the  son  of  Musnud  Ali, 
the  liberal  of  liberals,  and  the  meritorious  ser\'ant  of  the  king, 
repaired  it  according  to  command,  the  13th  of  Rubi-ul-Akber, 
in  the  year  909." 

March  30th,  1825. 

Franklin's  account  of  this  pillar  is  as  follows  : — "  The  Coottub 
Minar  is  situated  near,  and  derives  its  name  from,  the  tomb 
of  Khaja  Cuttubadeen.  His  disciple,  Shemsadeen,  of  the 
family  of  Ghazi,  erected  this  column,  anno  Hijira,  770.  The 
column  has  a  most  stupendous  appearance :  conceive  a  shaft 
of  sixty  feet  diameter,  composed  partly  of  red  stone,  partly 
of  white  marble,  rising  to  the  height  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet. 

"Ascending  this  pillar,  relief  is  afforded  by  four  projecting 
galleries  of  red  stone ;  tapering  towards  the  summit,  it  was 
crowned  with  an  octagonal  pa^dlion,  which  perhaps  would  have 
contained  at  least  a  dozen  persons.  Each  of  the  galleries  are 
most  richly,  though  differently,  ornamented :  the  column  is 
relieved  and  rendered  strikingly  bold  by  convex  and  angular 
projections. 

"  Within  this  grand  tower  is  a  circular  staircase  of  three 
hundred  and  eighty  steps  of  red  stone ;  there  are,  at  intervals, 
landing-places,  which  communicate  with  the  windows ;  from  the 
octagon  on  the  summit  the  view  is  strikingly  grand.  Inscriptions 
in  several  parts  twelve  inches  in  breadth,  embrace  the  column  ; 
these  contain  verses  from  the  khoran,  in  the  Arabic  character. 
The  galleries  are  supported  by  sculptured  ornaments,  of  which 
the  richness  is  greatly  heightened  by  a  profusion  of  frieze- 
work." 


KUTAB    Ki    LAT.  205 

On  the  night  of  the  31st  of  August,  1803,  the  minar  was 
shattered  from  the  foundation  by  an  earthquake ;  the  injury 
occasioned  by  it  has  been  lately  repaired  by  Colonel  Edward 
Smith,  of  the  engineers,  who  conducted  the  work  with  great 
judgment,  having  to  remove  and  refix  some  of  the  large  stones 
at  the  base  of  the  tower.  His  judgment  and  taste  failed  when 
repairing  the  top  of  the  edifice  ;  even  from  a  distance  the  sort 
of  pavilion  which  he  erected  on  the  top  appears  heavy,  and 
unfitted  to  the  proportions  of  the  rest  of  the  minar,  which  is 
fine  by  degrees,  and  beautifully  less.  Not  content  with  this,  he 
placed  an  umbrella  of  Chinese  form  on  the  top  of  the  pavilion  ; 
it  was  not  destined  to  remain, — the  lightning  struck  it  off,  as  if 
indignant  at  the  profanation.  The  miniir  is  covered  with  Arabic 
inscriptions  and  the  most  elaborate  workmanship. 

The  colonnades  around  the  Kutab  are  very  remarkable ; 
some  of  them  are  of  the  same  style  of  architecture  as  the  old 
Hindu  ruin  at  Kanauj,  of  which  I  have  given  a  sketch  ;  one 
large  long  stone  placed  upright  upon  another  of  the  same 
description,  without  any  mortar.  Some  of  the  colonnades  are 
almost  perfectly  plain,  others  richly  sculptured ;  they  appear  to 
be  very  ancient. 

KUTAB    Kl    LAT. 

West  of  the  Kutab,  about  fifty  yards,  and  in  the  middle  of 
the  colonnaded  court  in  front  of  the  exquisite  arch  I  mentioned 
before,  stands  an  iron  column  about  twenty  feet  high,  called 
"Kutab  ki  Ldt,"  or  "  Kutab's  Stafl^"."  It  is  covered  with 
inscriptions,  some  of  which  are  said  to  be  in  an  unknown 
character,  and  are  nearly  effaced  by  time.  The  more  recent  are 
in  Persian  and  Hindi  characters.  It  is  said  that  this  iron  column 
was  raised  by  the  grandfather  of  Raja  Pittourah,  on  the  repre- 
sentation of  the  Brahmans,  who  assured  him  that  the  sceptre 
would  never  depart  from  his  posterity  as  long  as  this  pillar 
stood.  Raja  Pittourah,  however,  was  killed  in  the  eighth  battle 
fought  near  Delhi  by  Kutab-u-dln-Abek,  who,  to  show  his 
contempt  for  the  prophecy  of  the  Brahmans,  and  to  evince  its 


206  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

failure,  allowed  the  column  to  remain.  The  pillar  is  dented 
near  the  top  by  a  cannon-shot  fired  at  it  by  Gholam  Kadir. 

Near  the  Kutab  is  the  foundation  of  another  miniir,  which 
was  commenced  on  a  larger  scale,  but  was  never  finished. 

Extracts  from  Colonel  John  Luard's  "  Views  in  India  " — "  The 

Cutteb  Minar  Dhelie." "  This  wonderful  pillar  derives  its 

name  from  Cutteb-ud-din  (the  pole-star  of  reUgion)  who  having 
come  from  Turkistan  as  a  slave,  was  purchased  by  the  Emperor 
Mahomed  Ghori — rose  in  his  favour, — became  a  general, — and 
ultimately  succeeded  to  the  throne, — and  was  the  first  of  the 
Patau,  or  Afghan  sovereigns.  In  the  year  589  Hegira,  1 193  a.d., 
he  took  the  fort  of  Merut,  and  the  city  of  DheUe,  from  the 
family  of  Candy  Rai,  and  established  the  seat  of  his  government 
there,  and  obliged  all  the  districts  around  to  acknowledge  the 
Mussalman  faith.  To  commemorate  this  and  other  successes 
over  the  infidels,  this  pillar  was  commenced  about  the  year 
1195  A.D.  The  circumference  at  the  base  is  143  feet; — height 
of  the  first  balcony,  90  feet — the  second,  140 — the  third,  180 — 
the  fourth,  203.— Total  height  in  1826  was  243  feet.  The 
original  sketch  was  made  in  1823." 

"  Shumse-ud-din-Altumsh  married  a  daughter  of  Cuttub-ud- 
din-Ibek.  Like  his  father-in-law,  he  was  formerly  a  slave,  and 
was  purchased  for  50,000  pieces  of  silver.  He  became  a  great 
general,  and  succeeded  to  the  imperial  throne  of  Dhelie  in  607 
Hegira,  1210  a.d.  He  was  an  able,  enterprising,  and  good 
prince — reigned  twenty-six  years, — died  in  1235  a.d.,  and  is 
buried  in  this  elaborately  ornamented  building,  placed  about 
200  yards  from  the  Cutteb  Minar,  which  he  assisted  in  construct- 
ing.    His  tomb  is  built  of  white  marble  and  red  granite." 

Having  roamed  around  the  tower  and  colonnades  the  whole 
morning,  we  retired  to  our  tents  to  dine  during  the  heat  of  the 
day. 


CHAPTER    LII. 


ANCIENT  DELHI-THE  ZENANA  GHAR. 

Ancient  Delhi — The  Ba'oll — Tombs  of  Shah'alam,  Bahadur  Shah,  and  Akbar 
Shah — The  Zenana  Ghar — Extent  of  the  Ruins — The  Observatory — Palace 
of  Shahjahanabad — The  Zenana— Hyat-ool-Nissa  Begam — Poverty  of  the 
Descendants  of  Tamurlane — The  Effect  of  a  Zenana  education  on  Man  and 
Woman — Death  of  Prince  Dara  Bukht — The  Dewani  Am — The  Dewani 
Khas — The  Palace — The  Shah-burj — Gardens  of  Shalimar — Ruins  of  Palaces 
and  Baths — The  Modern  City — Tees  Hazzari  Bagh — The  Madrissa — The 
Jama  Masjid — The  Kala  Masjid — Plan  of  the  City  of  Delhi— Quitted  Delhi, 
and  returned  to  Meerut — Tomb  of  Pir  Shah. 


1838,  Feb.  22nd. — In  the  cool  of  the  evening  we  mounted  our 
horses,  and  rode  to  Ancient  Delhi,  or  Indrapesta,  now  called 
Marowlie,  the  capital  of  the  former  Rajas.  At  this  place,  many 
houses  were  pointed  out  to  us  as  having  belonged  to  the  mighty 
dead ;  but  my  attention  was  arrested  by  a  ba'oli,  an  immense 
well.  From  the  top  of  the  well  to  the  surface  of  the  water  the 
depth  is  sixty  feet,  and  the  depth  of  water  below  forty  feet ; 
just  above  the  surface  of  the  water  the  side  of  the  well  opens  on 
a  flight  of  stone  steps,  which  lead  to  the  upper  regions.  I 
peered  over  the  well  to  see  the  water,  and  shuddered  as  I  looked 
into  the  dark  cold  depth  below  ;  at  that  instant  a  man  jumped 
from  the  top  into  the  well,  sank  a  great  depth,  rose  again,  and, 
swimming  to  the  opening,  came  up  the  steps  like  a  drenched 
rat ;  three  more  immediately  followed  his  example,  and  then 
gaily  claimed  a  "bakshish,"  or  reward,  begging  a  rupee,  which 
was  given :  we  did  not  stay  to  see  the  sport  repeated,  at 
which  the  jumpers  appeared  disappointed. 


208 


JVANUKRINGS    OI'    A    PILGRIM. 


Quitting  the  ba'oli,  we  visited  tlie  tombs  of  the  three  last 
emperors  of  Delhi, — Bahadur  Shah,  ShahTdam,  and  Akbar 
Shah.  The  latter  had  been  placed  there  within  a  few  weeks ; 
the  tomb  of  Shah'iilam  is  of  white  marble,  and  about 
eighteen  inches  distant  from  that  of  the  Emperor  Bahadur 
Shah,  over  whose  tomb  flourishes  a  white  jasmine.  How  are  the 
mighty  fallen  !  I  had  visited  the  tomb  of  Humaioon,  and  the 
still  grander  monument  of  Akbar  at  Secundra ;  had  admired  the 
magnificent  building,  its  park  and  portal.  The  last  Akbar 
reposes  side  by  side  with  the  two  former  emperors.  Three 
marble  tombs,  prettily  sculptured,  in  a  small  open  court,  the 
walls  of  which  are  of  white  marble,  is  all  that  adorns  the  burial- 
place  of  the  descendants  of  Tamurlane  ! 

The  building  that  most  interested  me  was  the  Royal  Zenana 
Ghar.  At  certain  times  of  the  year  the  Emperor  of  Delhi  used 
to  retire  to  this  spot  with  all  his  ladies  ;  the  place  is  prettily 
situated  amidst  rocks  and  trees:  there,  seated  at  ease  on  his 
cushions  of  state,  his  amusement  was  to  watch  the  sports  of  the 
ladies  of  the  zenana,  as  they  jumped  from  the  roof  of  a  verandah 
into  the  water  below,  and  then  came  up  to  jump  in  again.  On 
the  other  side  is  another  tank,  with  a  sloping  bank  of  masonry  ; 
on  this  slope  the  ladies  used  to  sit,  and  slide  down  into  the  tank. 
In  the  water,  amidst  the  trees,  the  graceful  drapery  of  the 
MusulmanI  and  Hindu  ladies  clinging  to  their  well-formed 
persons  must  have  had  a  beautiful  effect.  During  these  sports 
guards  were  stationed  around,  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  any 
profane  eye  on  the  sacredness  of  the  zenana. 

At  9  P.M.  we  revisited  the  minar:  the  night  was  remarkably 
fine,  no  moon,  but  a  dark  blue,  clear  star-hght.  The  minar  is  fine 
by  day,  its  magnitude  surprising ;  but,  by  night,  a  feeling  of  awe 
is  inspired  by  its  unearthly  appearance.  If  you  ask  a  native, 
"  Who  built  the  Kutab  ?"  his  answer  will  generally  be, — "  God 
built  it ; — who  else  could  have  built  it  ?"  And  such  is  the  feel- 
ing as  you  stand  at  the  base,  looking  up  to  the  top  of  the  column  of 
the  polar  star,  which  appears  to  tower  into  the  skies  :  I  could  not 
withdraw  my  eyes  from  it ;  the  ornaments,  beautiful  as  they  are 
by  day,  at  night,  shadowed  as  they  were  into  the  mass  of  building. 


THE    OBSERVATORY.  209 

only  added  to  its  grandeur.  We  roamed  through  the  colonnades, 
in  the  court  of  the  beautiful  arches,  and  returned  most  unwil- 
lingly to  our  tents. 

23rd. — Quitted  the  Kutab  without  revisiting  Tuglukabad,  our 
time  not  admitting  of  it ;  and  I  greatly  regretted  not  having  the 
power  of  visiting  the  tombs  that  surrounded  us  on  every  side 
the  ruins  of  Ancient  Delhi.  The  extent  of  these  ruins  is  sup- 
posed not  to  be  less  than  a  circumference  of  twenty  miles, 
reckoning  from  the  gardens  of  Shalimar,  on  the  north-west,  to 
the  Kutab  Miniir,  on  the  south-east,  and  proceeding  thence 
along  the  centre  of  the  old  city,  by  way  of  the  mausoleum  of 
Nizam-al-Deen,  the  tomb  of  Humaioon,  which  adjoins,  and  the 
old  fort  of  Delhi,  on  the  Jumna,  to  the  Ajmeer  gate  of  Shah- 
jahanabad.  The  environs  to  the  north  and  west  are  crowded 
with  the  remains  of  the  spacious  gardens  and  country  houses  of 
the  nobility,  which  in  former  times  were  abundantly  supplied  with 
water,  by  means  of  the  noble  canal  dug  by  Ali  Merdan  Khan. 

Franklin  remarks, — "Ancient  Delhi  is  said  by  historians  to 
have  been  erected  by  Rajah  Delu,  who  reigned  in  Hindustan 
prior  to  the  invasion  of  Alexander  the  Great :  others  affirm  it 
to  have  been  built  by  Rajah  Pettouvar,  who  flourished  at  a 
much  later  period.  It  is  called  in  Sanscrit  Indraput,  or  the 
Abode  of  Indra,  one  of  the  Hindu  deities,  and  is  thus  distin- 
guished in  the  royal  diplomas  of  the  Chancery  office." 

THE    OBSERVATORY. 

On  our  road  home,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  present  city 
of  Delhi,  we  stopped  to  visit  the  Observatory,  Jantr-Mantr,  a 
building  well  worthy  the  inspection  of  the  traveller.  The  name 
of  Jayasinha,  the  Rajah  of  Ambhere,  or  Jayanagar,  and  his  astro- 
nomical labours,  are  not  unknown  in  Europe ;  but  yet  the 
extent  of  his  exertions  in  the  cause  of  science  is  little  known ; 
his  just  claims  to  superior  genius  and  zeal  demand  some  enume- 
ration of  the  labours  of  one  whose  name  is  conspicuous  in  the 
annals  of  Hindustan.  Jey-sing  or  Jayasinha  succeeded  to  the 
inheritance  of  the  ancient  Rajahs  of  Ambhere  in  the  year  of 
Vicramadittya   1750,  corresponding  to   1693  of  the  Christian 

VOL.  II.  p 


210  WANDERINGS    OP    A    PILGRIM, 

aera.  His  mind  had  been  early  stored  with  the  knowledge 
contained  in  the  Hindu  writings,  but  he  appears  to  have  pecu- 
liarly attached  himself  to  the  mathematical  sciences,  and  his 
reputation  for  skill  in  them  stood  so  high,  that  he  was  chosen 
by  the  Emperor  Mahommed  Shah  to  reform  the  calendar, 
which,  from  the  inaccuracy  of  the  existing  tables,  had  ceased  to 
correspond  with  the  actual  appearance  of  the  heavens.  Jaya- 
sinha  undertook  the  task,  and  constructed  a  new  set  of  tables ; 
which,  in  honour  of  the  reigning  prince,  he  named  Zeej 
Mahommedshahy.  By  these,  almanacks  are  constructed  at 
Delhi,  and  all  astronomical  computations  made  at  the  present 
time. 

The  five  observatories,  which  were  built  and  finished  by  Jaya- 
sinha,  still  exist  in  a  state  more  or  less  perfect ;  they  were 
erected  at  Jeypoor,  Matra,  Benares,  Oujein,  and  Delhi. 

The  next  observatory,  in  point  of  size  and  preservation,  is 
that  at  Oujein ;  it  is  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
city,  in  the  quarter  called  Jeysingpoorah,  and  where  are  still  the 
remains  of  a  palace  of  Jayasinha,  who  was  subahdar  of  Malwa 
in  the  time  of  Mahommed  Shah.  The  observatory  at  Oujein 
has  since  been  converted  into  an  arsenal  and  foundry  of 
cannon. 

At  Matra,  the  remains  of  the  observatory  are  in  the  fort 
which  was  built  by  Jayasinha  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna. 

The  observatory  at  Delhi  is  situated  without  the  wall  of  the 
city,  at  the  distance  of  one  mile  and  a  quarter.  It  consists  of 
several  detached  buildings  : — 

1 .  A  large  equatorial  dial :  its  form  is  pretty  entire,  but  the 
edges  of  the  gnomon,  and  those  of  the  circle  on  which  the 
degrees  were  marked,  are  broken  in  several  places.  This  is  the 
instrument  called  by  Jayasinha  semrat-yunter  (the  prince  of 
dials) .  It  is  built  of  stone,  but  the  edges  of  the  gnomon,  and 
of  the  arches  where  the  gradation  was,  were  of  white  marble ; 

,e  few  small  portions  of  which  only  remain. 

2.  At  a  little  distance  from  this  instrument,  towards  the 
north-west,  is  another  equatorial  dial ;  more  entire,  but  smaller 
and  of  a  different  construction.     In  the  middle  stands  a  gnomon, 


THE    JANTR-MANTR.  211 

which,  as  usual  in  these  buildings,  contains  a  staircase  up  to  the 
top.  On  each  side  of  this  gnomon  are  two  concentric  semi- 
circles, having  for  their  diameters  the  two  edges  of  the  gnomon  ; 
it  is  evident  that  they  represent  meridians.  On  each  side  of 
this  post  is  another  gnomon,  equal  in  size  to  the  former ;  and  to 
the  eastward  and  westward  of  them  are  the  arches  on  which  the 
hours  are  marked. 

3.  The  north  wall  of  this  building  connects  the  three 
gnomons  at  their  highest  end ;  and  on  this  wall  is 
described  a  graduated  semicircle,  for  taking  the  altitudes  of 
bodies  that  he  due  east,  or  due  west,  from  the  eye  of  the 
observer. 

4.  To  the  westward  of  this  building,  and  close  to  it,  is  a 
wall,  in  the  plane  of  the  meridian,  on  which  is  described  a 
double  quadrant,  having  for  the  centres  the  two  upper  corners 
of  the  wall,  for  observing  the  altitudes  of  bodies  passing  the 
meridian,  either  to  the  north  or  south  of  the  zenith. 

5.  To  the  southward  of  the  dial  are  two  buildings,  named 
Ustudnah.  They  exactly  resemble  one  another,  and  are  designed 
for  the  same  purpose,  which  is,  to  observe  the  altitude  and  azi- 
muth of  the  heavenly  bodies.  They  are  two  in  number,  on 
purpose  that  two  persons  may  observe  at  the  same  time,  and 
so  compare  and  correct  their  observations. 

These  buildings  are  circular ;  and  in  the  centre  of  each  is  a 
pillar,  of  the  same  height  as  the  building  itself,  which  is  open  at 
top.  From  this  pillar  to  the  height  of  about  three  feet  from 
the  bottom,  proceed  radii  of  stone,  horizontally,  to  the  circular 
wall  of  the  building. 

6.  Between  these  two  buildings  and  the  great  equatorial  dial 
is  an  instrument  called  shamlah.  It  is  a  concave  hemispherical 
surface,  formed  of  mason  work,  to  represent  the  inferior  hemi- 
sphere of  the  heavens. 

The  best  and  most  authentic  account  of  the  labours  of  Jaya-' 
sinha  for  the  completion  of  his  work  and  the  advancement  of 
astronomical  knowledge,  is  contained  in  his  own  preface  to  the 
Zeej  Mahommedshahy ;  from  which  the  following  extract  is  a 
literal  translation : — 

p2 


212  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

"To  accomplish  the  exalted  command  which  he  had  received, 
he  (Jeysing)  bound  the  girdle  of  resolution  about  the  loins  of  his 
soul,  and  constructed  here  (at  Delhi)  several  of  the  instruments 
of  an  observatory,  such  as  had  been  erected  at  Samarcand, 
agreeably  to  the  Musalman  books :  such  as  Zat-ul-huluck,  of 
brass,  in  diameter  three  guz  of  the  measure  now  in  use  (which 
is  nearly  equal  to  two  cubits  of  the  Koran),  and  Zat-ul-shobetein, 
and  Zat-ul-suchetein,  and  Suds-Fukheri,  and  Shamlah.  But 
finding  that  brass  instruments  did  not  come  up  to  the  ideas  that 
he  had  formed  of  accuracy,  because  of  the  smallness  of  their 
size,  the  want  of  division  into  minutes,  the  shaking  and  wearing 
of  their  axes,  the  displacement  of  the  centres  of  the  circles,  and 
the  shifting  of  the  planes  of  the  instruments ;  he  concluded  that 
the  reason  why  the  determinations  of  the  ancients,  such  as  Hip- 
parchus  and  Ptolemy,  proved  inaccurate,  must  have  been  of 
this  kind  ;  therefore  he  constructed  in  Dar-ul-kheldfet  Shah- 
Jehanabad,  which  is  the  seat  of  empire  and  prosperity,  instru- 
ments of  his  own  invention,  such  as  Jey-per-gas  and  Ram-junter, 
and  Semrat-junter,  the  semi-diameter  of  which  is  eighteen 
cubits,  and  one  minute  on  it  is  a  barleycorn  and  a  half,  of  stone 
and  lime,  of  perfect  stability,  with  attention  to  the  rules  of 
geometry  and  adjustment  to  the  meridian,  and  to  the  latitude  of 
the  place,  and  with  care  in  the  measuring  and  fixing  of  them ; 
so  that  the  inaccuracies  from  the  shaking  of  the  circles,  and  the 
wearing  of  their  axes,  and  displacement  of  their  centres,  and  the 
inequality  of  the  minutes,  might  be  corrected. 

"Thus  an  accurate  method  of  constructing  an  observatory 
was  established ;  and  the  difference  which  had  existed  between 
the  computed  and  observed  places  of  the  fixed  stars  and  planets, 
by  means  of  observing  their  mean  motions  and  aberrations  with 
such  instruments,  was  removed.  And,  in  order  to  confirm  the 
truth  of  these  observations,  he  constructed  instruments  of  the 
same  kind  in  Sewal  Jeypoor,  and   Matra,    and   Benares,  and 

.Oujein." 

After  this  most    interesting   visit   to   the   Observatory,  we 

-returned  to  Delhi. 


PALACE  OF  SHAHJAHANABAD.  213 


THE  ZENANA. 

During  my  visit  at  Khasgunge,  Mr.  James  Gardner  gave  me 
an  introduction  to  one  of  the  princesses  of  Delhi,  Hyat-ool-Nissa 
Begam,  the  aunt  of  the  present,  and  sister  of  the  late  king. 
Mr.  James  Gardner  is  her  adopted  son.  The  princess  sent  one 
of  her  ladies  to  say  she  should  be  happy  to  receive  me,  and 
requested  me  to  appoint  an  hour.  The  weather  was  excessively 
hot,  but  my  time  was  so  much  employed  I  had  not  an  hour  to 
spare  but  one  at  noon-day,  which  was  accordingly  fixed  upon. 

I  was  taken  in  a  palanquin  to  the  door  of  the  court  of  the 
building  set  apart  for  the  women,  where  some  old  ladies  met 
and  welcomed  me.  Having  quitted  the  palanquin,  they  conducted 
me  through  such  queer  places,  filled  with  women  of  all  ages ; 
the  narrow  passages  were  dirty  and  wet, — an  odd  sort  of  entrance 
to  the  apartment  of  a  princess  ! 

Under  a  verandah,  I  found  the  princess  seated  on  a  gaddl,  of  a 
green  colour.  In  this  verandah  she  appeared  to  live  and  sleep, 
as  her  charpdi,  covered  with  a  green  razd'i,  stood  at  the  further 
end.  She  is  an  aged  woman  ;  her  features,  which  are  good,  must 
have  been  handsome  in  youth ;  now  they  only  tell  of  good 
descent.  Green  is  the  mourning  worn  by  the  followers  of  the 
prophet.  The  princess  was  in  mourning  for  her  late  brother,  the 
Emperor  Akbar  Shah.  Her  attire  consisted  of  trowsers  of  green 
satin,  an  angiya,  or  boddice  of  green,  and  a  cashmere  shawl  of 
the  same  colour  :  jewels  are  laid  aside  during  the  days  of  mdtam 
(mourning) .  I  put  off  my  shoes  before  I  stepped  on  the  white 
cloth  that  covered  the  carpet,  and  advancing,  made  my  bahut 
bahut  adab  saldm,  and  presented  a  nazr  of  one  gold  mohur. 
The  princess  received  me  very  kindly,  gave  me  a  seat  by  her 
side,  and  we  had  a  long  conversation.  It  is  usual  to  offer  a 
gold  mohur  on  visiting  a  person  of  rank  ;  it  is  the  homage  paid 
by  the  inferior  to  the  superior :  on  the  occasion  of  a  second  visit 
it  is  still  correct  to  offer  a  nazr,  which  may  then  consist  of 
a  bouquet  of  freshly-gathered  flowers.  The  compliment  is 
graciously  received,  this  homage  being  the  custom  of  the 
country. 


214  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PH.GRIM. 

I  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  understanding  what  the  Begam 
said,  the  loss  of  her  teeth  rendering  her  utterance  imperfect. 
After  some  time,  she  called  for  her  women  to  play  and  sing  for 
my  amusement.  I  was  obliged  to  appear  pleased,  but  my 
aching  head  would  willingly  have  been  spared  the  noise.  Her 
adopted  son,  the  son  of  the  present  King  Bahadur  Shah,  came 
in  ;  he  is  a  remarkably  fine,  intelligent  boy,  about  ten  years  old, 
with  a  handsome  countenance.  Several  other  young  princes  also 
appeared,  and  some  of  their  betrothed  wives,  Uttle  girls  of  five 
and  six  years  old  :  the  girls  were  plain.  The  princess  requested 
me  to  spend  the  day  with  her ;  saying  that  if  I  would  do  so,  at 
4  P.M.  I  should  be  introduced  to  the  emperor  (they  think  it  an 
indignity  to  call  him  the  king) ,  and  if  I  would  stay  with  her 
until  the  evening,  I  should  have  naches  for  my  amusement  all 
night.  In  the  mean  time  she  desired  some  of  her  ladies  to 
show  me  the  part  of  the  palace  occupied  by  the  zenana.  Her 
young  adopted  son,  the  heir-apparent,  took  my  hand,  and  con- 
ducted me  over  the  apartments  of  the  women.  The  ladies  ran 
out  to  see  the  stranger :  my  guide  pointed  them  all  out  by 
name,  and  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  and  conversing  with 
almost  all  the  begams.  A  plainer  set  I  never  beheld:  the 
verandahs,  in  which  they  principally  appeared  to  live,  and  the 
passages  between  the  apartments,  were  mal  propre.  The  young 
prince  led  me  through  different  parts  of  the  palace,  and  I  was 
taken  into  a  superb  hall :  formerly  fountains  had  played  there  ; 
the  ceiling  was  painted  and  inlaid  with  gold.  In  this  hall  were 
three  old  women  on  charpiiTs  (native  beds),  looking  like  hags; 
and  over  the  marble  floor,  and  in  the  place  where  fountains  once 
played,  was  collected  a  quantity  of  offensive  black  water,  as  if 
from  the  drains  of  the  cook  rooms.  From  a  verandah,  the 
young  prince  pointed  out  a  bastion  in  which  the  king  was  then 
asleep,  and  I  quitted  that  part  of  the  palace,  fearing  the  talking 
of  those  who  attended  me,  and  the  laughing  of  the  children, 
•might  arouse  his  majesty  from  his  noon-day  slumbers. 

On  my  return  to  the  princess  I  found  her  sister  with  her,  a 
good-humoured,  portly-looking  person.  They  were  both  seated 
on  chairs,  and  gave  me  one.     This  was  in  compliment,  lest  the 


THE    ZENANA.  215 

native  fashion  of  sitting  on  the  ground  might  fatigue  me. 
The  heat  of  the  sun  had  given  me  a  violent  headache.  I 
declined  staying  to  see  the  king,  and  requested  permission  to 
depart. 

Four  trays,  filled  with  fruit  and  sweetmeats,  were  presented 
to  me ;  two  necklaces  of  jasmine  flowers,  fresh  gathered,  and 
strung  with  tinsel,  were  put  round  my  neck ;  and  the  princess 
gave  me  a  little  embroidered  bag  filled  with  spices.  It  is  one  of 
the  amusements  of  the  young  girls  in  a  zenana  to  embroider 
little  bags,  which  they  do  very  beautifully ;  these  they  fill  with 
spices  and  betel-nut,  cut  up  into  small  bits ;  this  mixture  they 
take  great  delight  in  chewing.  An  English  lady  is  not  more 
vain  of  a  great  cat  and  kitten  with  staring  eyes,  worked  by  herself 
in  Berlin  wool,  than  the  ladies  behind  the  parda  of  their  skill 
in  embroidery.  On  taking  my  departure  the  princess  requested 
rae  to  pay  her  another  visit ;  it  gave  her  pleasure  to  speak  of 
her  friends  at  Khasgunge.  She  is  herself  a  clever,  intelligent 
woman,  and  her  manners  are  good.  I  had  satisfied  my  curiosity, 
and  had  seen  native  life  in  a  palace  ;  as  for  beauty,  in  a  whole 
zenana  there  may  be  two  or  three  handsome  women,  and  all  the 
rest  remarkably  ugly.  I  looked  with  wonder  at  the  number  of 
plain  faces  round  me. 

When  any  man  wishes  to  ascend  the  minarets  of  the  Jama 
Masjid,  he  is  obliged  to  send  word  to  the  captain  of  the  gate 
of  the  palace,  that  the  ladies  may  be  apprised,  and  no  veiled 
one  may  be  beheld,  even  from  that  distance :  the  fame  of  the 
beauty  of  the  generality  of  the  women  may  be  continued,  pro- 
vided they  never  show  their  faces.  Those  women  who  are 
beautiful  are  very  rare,  but  then  their  beauty  is  very  great ;  the 
rest  are  generally  plain.  In  England  beauty  is  more  commonly 
diff"used  amongst  all  classes.  Perhaps  the  most  voluptuously 
beautiful  woman  I  ever  saw  was  an  Asiatic. 

I  heard  that  I  was  much  blamed  for  visiting  the  princess,  it 
being  supposed  I  went  for  the  sake  of  presents.  Natives  do  not 
offer  presents  unless  they  think  there  is  something  to  be  gained 
in  return ;  and  that  I  knew  perfectly  well.  I  went  there  from 
curiosity,  not  avarice,  offered  one  gold  mohur,  and  received  in 


216  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

return  the  customary  sweetmeats  and  necklaces  of  flowers. 
Look  at  the  poverty,  the  wretched  poverty  of  these  descendants 
of  the  emperors  !  In  former  times  strings  of  pearls  and  valuable 
jewels  were  placed  on  the  necks  of  departing  visiters.  When 
the  Princess  Hyat-ool-Nissa  Begam  in  her  fallen  fortunes  put  the 
necklace  of  freshly-gathered  white  jasmine  flowers  over  my  head, 
I  bowed  with  as  much  respect  as  if  she  had  been  the  queen  of 
the  universe.  Others  may  look  upon  these  people  with  con- 
tempt, I  cannot ;  look  at  what  they  are,  at  what  they  have 
been ! 

The  indecision  and  effeminacy  of  the  character  of  the  emperor 
is  often  a  subject  of  surprise.  Why  should  it  be  so  ?  where  is 
the  difference  in  intellect  between  a  man  and  a  woman  brought 
up  in  a  zenana  ?  There  they  both  receive  the  same  education, 
and  the  result  is  similar.  In  Europe  men  have  so  greatly  the 
advantage  of  women  from  receiving  a  supeiior  education,  and  in 
being  made  to  act  for,  and  depend  upon  themselves  from  child- 
hood, that  of  course  the  superiority  is  on  the  male  side ;  the 
women  are  kept  under  and  have  not  fair  play. 

One  day  a  gentleman,  speaking  to  me  of  the  extravagance  of 
one  of  the  young  princes,  mentioned  he  was  always  in  debt,  he 
could  never  live  upon  his  allowance.  The  allowance  of  the 
prince  was  twelve  rupees  a  month  ! — not  more  than  the  wages 
of  a  head  servant. 

With  respect  to  my  visit,  I  felt  it  hard  to  be  judged  by  people 
who  were  ignorant  of  my  being  the  friend  of  the  relatives  of 
those  whom  I  visited  in  the  zenana.  People  who  themselves 
had,  perhaps,  no  curiosity  respecting  native  life  and  manners, 
and  who,  even  if  they  had  the  curiosity,  might  have  been  utterly 
unable  to  gratify  it,  imless  by  an  introduction  which  they  were 
probably  unable  to  obtain. 

It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  a  native  lady  in  a  large  house  always 
selects  the  smallest  room  for  her  own  apartment.  A  number  of 
ladies  from  the  palace  at  Delhi  were  staying  in  a  distant  house, 
to  which  place  a  friend  having  gone  to  visit  them,  found  them 
all  in  the  bathing- room,  they  having  selected  that  as  the  smallest 
apartment  in  which  they  could  crowd  together. 


DEATH    OF    PRINCE    DARA    BUKHT.  217 

I  will  here  insert  an  extract  from  the  Delhi  Gazette  of 
Jan.  13th,  1849. 

"  On  Thursday  morning,  departed  this  life.  Prince  Dara 
Bukht,  heir-apparent  to  the  throne  of  Delhi,  and  with  him,  we 
have  some  reason  to  believe,  all  the  right  of  the  royal  house  to 
the  succession,  such  having  been  guaranteed  to  him  individually, 
and  to  no  other  member  of  the  family.  We  sincerely  trust 
that  such  is  really  the  case,  and  that  our  Government  will  now 
be  in  a  position  to  adopt  steps  for  making  efficient  arrangements 
for  the  dispersion,  with  a  suitable  provision,  of  the  family  on 
the  death  of  the  present  king.  The  remains  of  the  deceased 
prince  were  interred  near  Cheeragh  Delhi  within  a  few  hours  of 
his  death.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  nearly  all  the  native  papers 
have  long  since  omitted  the  designation  of  '  Padshah '  when 
alluding  to  the  King  of  Delhi,  styling  him  merely  '  Shah.'  " 

It  was  too  hot  for  me  to  venture  round  the  walls  of  the 
palace,  and  I  only  paid  a  flying  visit  to  the  Diwdn-i-am,  or  Hall 
of  PubUc  Audience,  and  to  the  Diwdn-i-khdss,  or  Hall  of  Private 
Audience.  The  latter  is  built  of  white  marble,  beautifully 
ornamented,  and  the  roof  is  supported  on  colonnades  of 
marble  pillars.  In  this  hall  the  peacock  throne  stands  in  the 
centre  ;  it  is  ascended  by  steps,  and  covered  with  a  canopy,  with 
four  artificial  peacocks  at  the  four  comers.  Around  the  exterior 
of  the  Diwdn-i-khfiss,  in  the  cornice,  is  the  well-known  inscription, 
in  letters  of  gold,  upon  a  ground  of  white  marble  :  "If  there  be  a 
paradise  on  earth,  it  is  this,  it  is  this'."  The  terrace  of  this 
building  is  composed  of  large  slabs  of  white  marble,  and  the 
building  is  crowned  at  the  top  with  four  paviUons  or  cupolas  of 
the  same  materials. 

The  palace  is  3000  feet  long,  1800  broad,  and  at  one  time 
would  have  held  10,000  horse:  the  building  it  is  said  cost 
about  £1,000,000  sterling. 

The  royal  baths,  a  little  to  the  northward  of  the  Diwdn-i- 
khdss,  consist  of  three  very  large  rooms,  surmounted  by  domes 
of  white  marble  :  adjoining  to  the  baths  is  a  fine  mosque. 

In  the  royal  gardens  is  a  very  large  octagonal  room,  facing 
'  Oriental  Proverbs  and  Sayings,  No.  121. 


218  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

the  Jumna,  called  Shah  Burj,  or  the  Royal  Tower,  which  is 
lined  with  marble.  Through  the  window  of  this  room  Prince 
Mirza  Juwaun  Bukht  made  his  escape  in  1784,  when  he  fled  to 
Lucnow.  The  Rohillas,  who  were  introduced  by  Gholaum 
Cadir  Khan,  stripped  many  of  the  rooms  of  their  marble  orna- 
ments and  pavements. 

It  was  my  intention  to  have  gone  round  the  walls  in  the  cool 
of  the  evening,  with  my  relative,  but  I  was  so  much  disgusted 
with  the  ill-natured  remarks  I  had  heard,  I  would  not  enter  the 
place  again. 

The  gardens  of  Shalimar  are  worthy  of  a  visit,  from  which 
the  prospect  to  the  south,  towards  Delhi,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  is  covered  with  the  remains  of  extensive  gardens, 
pavilions,  mosques,  and  burial-places.  The  environs  of  this 
once  magnificent  city  appear  now  nothing  more  than  a  heap  of 
ruins,  and  the  country  around  is  equally  desolate  and  forlorn  : — 

"  The  spider  hath  woven  his  web  in  the  royal  palace  of  the  Caesars, 
1  he  owl  standeth  sentinel  on  the  watch-towers  of  Afrasiab !  " 

Sadi. 

"  The  lonely  spider's  thin  grey  pall 
Waves  slowly  widening  o'er  the  wall ; 
The  bat  builds  in  his  harem  bower  ; 
And,  in  the  fortress  of  his  power, 
The  owl  usurps  the  beacon-tower  ; 
The  wild  dog  howls  o'er  the  fountain's  brim, 
With  baffled  thirst,  and  famine,  grim  ; 
For  the  stream  has  shrunk  from  its  marble  bed, 
Where  the  weeds  and  the  desolate  dust  are  spread." 

Byron. 

"  Within  the  city  of  New  Delhi  are  the  remains  of  many 
splendid  palaces,  belonging  to  the  great  omrahs  of  the  empire ; 
among  the  largest  are  those  of  Cummer-o'-deen  Cawn,  vizier  to 
Mahmud  Shah ;  Ali  Merdan  Khan,  the  Persian ;  the  Nawab 
Gazooddeen  Cawn ;  Seftur  Jung's ;  the  garden  of  Coodseah 
Begam,  mother  of  Mahmud  Shah  ;  the  palace  of  Sadut  Khan  ; 
and  that  of  Sultan  Darah  Shekoah." 

"  The  baths  of  Sadut  Khan  are  a  set  of  beautiful  rooms,  paved, 


MODERN    DELHI.  219 

and  lined  with  white  marble  ;  they  consist  of  five  distinct  apart- 
ments, into  which  light  is  admitted  by  glazed  windows  at  the 
top  of  the  domes.  Sefdur  Jung's  Teh  Khana  consists  of  a  set 
of  apartments,  built  in  a  delicate  style;  one  long  room,  in  which 
is  a  marble  reservoir  the  whole  length,  and  a  smaller  one  raised 
and  balustraded  on  each  side ;  both  faced  throughout  with  white 
marble.  Adjoining  the  palace  is  the  fort  of  Sellm,  Sellm-garh ; 
it  communicates  by  a  bridge  of  stone,  built  over  an  arm  of  the 
river,  and  is  now  entirely  in  rains. 

"  The  modern  city  of  Shahjahanabad  is  rebuilt,  and  contains 
many  good  houses,  chiefly  of  brick  ;  the  streets  are  in  general 
narrow,  as  is  usual  in  most  of  the  large  cities  of  Asia  ;  but 
there  were  formerly  two  very  noble  streets,  the  first  leading  to 
the  palace  gate,  through  the  city,  to  the  Delhi  gate,  in  a  direction 
north  and  south.  This  street  was  very  broad  and  spacious, 
having  handsome  houses  on  each  side  of  the  way,  and  merchants' 
shops,  well  furnished  with  a  variety  of  the  richest  articles. 
Shahjahan  caused  an  aqueduct  of  red  stone  to  be  made,  which 
conveyed  the  water  the  whole  length  of  the  street,  and  thence, 
by  a  reservoir  underground,  into  the  royal  gardens.  Remains  of 
this  aqueduct  are  still  to  be  seen,  but  it  is  in  most  parts  choked 
up  with  rubbish.  The  second  grand  street  entered  in  the  same 
manner  from  the  palace  to  the  Lahore  gate ;  it  lay  east  and  west, 
and  was  equal  in  all  respects  to  the  former  ;  but,  in  both  of  them, 
the  inhabitants  have  spoiled  the  beauty  of  their  appearance  by 
running  a  fine  of  houses  down  the  centre  ;  and,  in  other  places, 
across  the  street ;  so  that  it  is  with  difficulty  a  person  can 
discover,  without  narrowly  inspecting,  their  former  position." 

"  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Cabul  gate  is  a  garden,  called 
Tees  Huzzari  Bagh,  in  which  is  the  tomb  of  the  Queen  Malika 
ZemEini,  wife  of  the  Emperor  Mahmud  Shah.  On  a  rising 
ground  near  this  garden,  whence  there  is  a  fine  prospect  of  the 
city,  are  two  broken  columns  of  brown  granite,  eight  feet  high, 
and  two  and  a  half  in  breadth,  on  which  are  inscriptions  in 
ancient  characters." 

Near  the  Ajimere  gate  is  a  Madrasa,  or  college,  erected  by 
Gazooddeen  Cawn,  nephew  of  Nizam-ool-Mooluk  ;  it  is  built  of 


220  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

red  stone,  and  situated  in  the  centre  of  a  spacious  quadrangle, 
with  a  fountain,  lined  with  stone.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  area 
is  a  handsome  mosque,  built  of  red  stone,  and  inlaid  with  white 
marble.     This  college  is  now  uninhabited. 

Modern  Delhi  has  been  built  upon  two  rocky  eminences  ;  the 
one  where  the  Jama  Masjid  is  situated,  named  Jujula  Pahar ; 
and  the  other  called  Bejula  Pahar ;  from  both  of  these  you  have 
a  commanding  view  of  the  rest  of  the  city. 

THE    JAMA    MASJID, 

24th. — We  visited  this  noble  masjid,  — the  finest  I  have 
seen ;  no  difficulty  was  made  in  allowing  us  to  inspect  it.  "  The 
gate  of  the  house  of  God  is  always  open' :"  not  only  Uterally, 
but  also  to  converts. 

"  This  mosque  is  situated  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
royal  palace ;  the  foundation  of  it  was  laid  upon  a  rocky  emi- 
nence, named  Jujula  Pahar,  and  has  been  scarped  on  purpose. 
The  ascent  to  it  is  by  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  thirty-five  in 
number,  through  a  handsome  gateway  of  red  stone.  The  doors 
of  this  gateway  are  covered  throughout  with  plates  of  wrought 
brass,  which  Mr.  Bernier  imagined  to  be  copper.  The  terrace 
on  which  the  mosque  is  situated  is  a  square,  of  about  fourteen 
hundred  yards  of  red  stone  ;  in  the  centre  is  a  fountain,  lined 
with  marble,  for  the  purpose  of  performing  the  necessary  ablu- 
tions previous  to  prayer. 

"  An  arched  colonnade  of  red  stone  surrounds  the  whole  of 
the  terrace,  which  is  adorned  with  octagonal  pavilions  for  sitting 
in.  The  mosque  is  of  an  oblong  form,  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
one  feet  in  length,  surmounted  by  three  magnificent  domes 
of  white  marble,  interspersed  with  black  stripes,  and  flanked  by 
two  minarets  of  black  marble  and  red  stone  alternately,  rising  to 
the  height  of  an  hundred  and  thirty  feet.  Each  of  these 
minarets  has  three  projecting  galleries  of  white  marble,  having 
their  summits  crowned  with  light  octagonal  pavilions  of  the 
same.  The  whole  front  of  the  building  is  faced  with  large  slabs 
of  beautiful  white  marble ;  and  along  the  cornice  are  ten  com- 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  122. 


THE    BLACK    MOSQUE.  221 

partments,  four  feet  long,  and  two  and  a  half  broad,  which  are 
inlaid  with  inscriptions  in  black  marble,  in  the  Nishki  character ; 
and  are  said  to  contain  the  greater  part,  if  not  the  whole,  of  the 
Koran.  The  inside  of  the  mosque  is  paved  throughout,  with 
large  slabs  of  white  marble,  decorated  with  a  black  border,  and 
is  wonderfully  beautiful  and  delicate ;  the  slabs  are  about  three 
feet  in  length,  by  one  and  a  half  broad.  The  walls  and  roof  are 
lined  with  plain  white  marble  ;  and  near  the  kibla  is  a  handsome 
taak,  or  niche,  which  is  adorned  with  a  profusion  of  frieze-work. 
Close  to  this  is  a  mimbar  or  pulpit  of  marble,  which  has  an 
ascent  of  four  steps,  balustraded.  Kibla  literally  implies  com- 
pass, but  here  means  a  small  hollow  or  excavation  in  the  walls 
of  Muhammadan  mosques,  so  situated  on  the  erection  of  the 
buildings  as  always  to  look  towards  the  city  of  Mecca. 

"The  ascent  to  the  minarets  is  by  a  winding  staircase  of  an 
hundred  and  thirty  steps  of  red  stone ;  and,  at  the  top,  the 
spectator  is  gratified  by  a  noble  view  of  the  King's  Palace,  the 
Cuttub  Minar,  the  Hurran  Minar,  Humaioon's  Mausoleum,  the 
Palace  of  Feroze  Shah,  the  Fort  of  old  Delhi,  and  the  Fort  of 
Loni,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  Jumna.  The  domes 
are  crowned  with  cuUises  of  copper,  richly  gilt ;  and  present  a 
glittering  appearance  from  afar  off.  This  mosque  was  begun  by 
the  Emperor  Shahjahan,  in  the  fourth  year  of  his  reign,  and 
completed  in  the  tenth.  The  expenses  of  its  erection  amounted 
to  ten  lakh  of  rupees  ;  and  it  is  in  every  respect  worthy  of  being 
the  great  cathedral  of  the  empire  of  Hindustan." — Franklin. 

Exclusive  of  the  mosques  before  described,  there  are  in  Shah- 
jahanabad  and  its  environs  above  forty  others  ;  most  of  them  of 
inferior  size  and  beauty,  but  all  of  them  of  a  similar  fashion. 
In  the  evening,  we  drove  to  the  Turkoman  gate  of  the  city,  to 
see  the  Kala  Masjid  or  Black  Mosque.  We  found  our  way  with 
difficulty  into  the  very  worst  part  of  Delhi :  my  companion  had 
never  been  there  before,  and  its  character  was  unknown  to  us ; 
he  did  not  much  like  my  going  over  the  mosque,  amid  the 
wretches  that  surrounded  us ;  but  my  curiosity  carried  the  day. 
The  appearance  of  the  building  from  the  entrance  is  most  sin- 


222  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

gular  and  extraordinary  ;  it  would  form  an  excellent  subject  for 
a  sketch.  You  ascend  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  and  then  enter 
the  gateway  of  the  masjid :  the  centre  is  a  square  ;  the  pillars 
that  support  the  arches  are  of  rude  construction, — stone  placed 
upon  stone,  without  mortar  between  ;  there  are  twelve  or  fifteen 
small  domes  on  three  sides  of  the  square.  I  wished  to  sketch 
the  place,  but  my  relative  hurried  me  away,  fearful  of  insult 
from  the  people  around.  The  masjid  Wcis  built  four  hundred  and 
fifty  years  ago,  before  the  building  of  the  modern  Delhi.  The 
tradition  of  the  place  is  this  : — 

In  former  times  the  masjid  was  built  of  white  stone.  A 
father  committed  a  horrible  crime  within  its  walls.  The  stones 
of  the  masjid  turned  from  white  to  black.  It  obtained  the 
name  of  the  black  mosque.  No  service  was  ever  performed 
there,  and  the  spot  was  regarded  as  unholy :  none  but  the 
lowest  of  the  people  now  frequent  the  place  ;  and  any  stranger 
visiting  it  might  as  well  take  a  barkindaz  as  a  protection  against 
insult.  Hindoo  Rao,  the  brother  of  the  Baiza  Ba'i,  lives  near 
Delhi,  in  the  house  of  the  late  Mr.  Frazer ;  he  came  in  his 

curricle  to  call  on  Captain  S :  I  saw  him ;  he  is  a  short, 

thick-set,  fat  Mahratta,  very  independent  in  speech  and  bearing. 
After  some  conversation,  he  arose  to  depart,  shook  hands  with 
me,  and  said,  "  How  do  you  do  ?  "  thinking  he  was  bidding  me 
"  good  night."  This  being  all  the  English  he  has  acquired,  he 
is  very  fond  of  displaying  it.  Some  young  officer,  in  a  fit 
of  tiimasha  {i.  e.  fun)  must  have  taught  him  his  "  How  do 
you  do." 

There  is  no  guide-book  to  conduct  a  stranger  over  the  city  of 
Delhi,  or  to  point  out  the  position  of  its  numerous  gates ;  I  have 
therefore  added  a  plan  of  the  city,  which  we  found  very  useful 
when  arranging  our  excursions,  and  I  have  made  numerous 
extracts  from  Franklin  to  point  out  places  worthy  of  a  visit'. 

2bth. — Quitted  Delhi,  and  encamped  the  first  march  at  Fur- 
rndnagar  on  our  return  to  Meerut ;  it  was  too  hot  for  tents. 

2Qth. — Encamped  at  Begamabad :    I  was  very  unwell ;    the 

'  Appendix,  No.  32. 


TOMB  OF  pIr  shah.  223 

annoyance  of  thieves  around  my  tent,  and  the  greater  plague  of 
fever,  kept  me  awake  all  night. 

27th. — Was  driven  into  Meerut  the  whole  march,  being 
unable  to  sit  on  my  horse ;  called  in  medical  aid,  and  was  con- 
fined for  six  days  to  my  charpai,  unable  to  rise  from  fever,  in- 
fluenza, and  severe  cough. 

March   Wth. — Just   able   to   creep   about.     Captain  A 

drove  me  to  see  the  tomb  of  Aboo,  a  very  fine  one  near  the  prison 
at  Meerut :  its  history  I  forget,  and  I  was  too  tU  to  attempt  to 
sketch  it. 

Thence  we  drove  to  the  tomb  of  Pir  Shah,  near  the  gate  of 
the  city.  It  is  in  ruins ;  the  verandah  that  once  ornamented 
it  has  fallen  to  the  ground.  The  tomb  is  peculiar,  the  dome 
has  only  been  raised  two  feet  and  so  finished  :  this  has  been  so 
left  purposely,  that  the  sunshine  and  the  dews  of  heaven  may 
fall  on  the  marble  sarcophagus  of  the  saint  who  sleeps  within 
the  building.  Around  the  tomb  are  a  number  of  the  graves  of 
the  faithful.  Perhaps  the  exertion  of  taking  a  drive  made  me 
ill  again ;  and  the  relative  with  whom  I  was  staying  not 
admiring  this  return  of  fever,  determined  to  take  me  instantly 
to  the  hills. 


CHAPTER    LIIT. 


DEPARTURE  FOR  THE  HILLS.— LANDOWR. 

First  View  of  the  Snowy  Ranges — Saharanpur — MohunchaukT — An  Adventure 
— The  Keeree  Pass — Rajpiir — Moti — The  Giinth — Hill-men — A  Jampan — 
Ascent  to  Landowr — HillFlowers — Purityof  the  Air — View  oftheHimalaya — 
The  Kliuds — Mussoori — Rhododendron  Trees— Mr.  VVebh's  Hotel — Curious 
Soap — The  Landowr  Bazar — Schools  in  the  Hills — Cloud  End — The  White 
Rhododendron — Storm  in  the  Hills — Hill  Birds — Fever  in  the  Hills — New- 
lands — Death  of  Major  Blundell. 

1838,  March  I6th. — We  drove  out  twenty  miles,  to  the  place 
where  the  palanquins  awaited  us,  travelled  diik  all  night,  found 
a  buggy  ready  for  us  at  the  last  stage,  and  reached  our  friend's 
house  at  Saharanpur  the  next  morning  by  8  a.m.  On  the  road, 
about  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  was  much  dehghted  with 
the  first  view  of  the  snowy  ranges  ;  I  never  anticipated  seeing 
mountains  covered  with  snow  again,  and,  as  I  lay  in  my  palan- 
quin, watching  the  scene  for  miles,  breathing  the  cool  air  from 
the  hills,  and  viewing  the  mountains  beyond  them,  I  felt  quite  a 

different  being,  charmed  and  delighted.     Mr.  and  Miss  B 

received  us  very  kindly ;  and  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  an 
old  friend.  Captain  Sturt,  of  the  engineers ; — the  man  whose 
noble  conduct  distinguished  him  so  highly,  and  who  was  shot 
during  the  fatal  retreat  of  the  army  in  Afghanistan.  In  the 
evening  we  visited  the  Botanical  Garden  ;  it  is  an  excellent  one, 
and  in  high  order ;  some  tigers  were  there,  fiercely  growling  over 
their  food,  several  bears,  and  a  porcupine.  The  garden  is  well 
watered  by  the  canal,  which  passes  through  it.     The  Governor- 


AN    ADVENTURE.  225 

General  broke  up  his  camp  at  Saharanpur,  and  quitted,  with  a 
small  retinue,  for  Mussoorl,  the  day  before  we  arrived. 

I4th. — ^We  took  leave  of  our  friends,  and  resumed  our  dak 
journey  at  4  p.m.  ;  during  the  night  we  passed  Lord  Auckland's 
camp,  which  was  pitched  in  a  very  picturesque  spot  at  Mohun- 
chaukl :  the  tents,  the  elephants,  and  the  camels  formed  beautiful 
groups  among  the  trees,  and  I  stopped  the  palanquin  a  short  time 
to  admire  them.  We  passed  through  a  forest, — or  sal  jangal,  as 
they  call  it, — in  which  wild  elephants  are  sometimes  found,  and 
met  with  a  little  adventure  :  a  tiger  was  lying  by  the  road-side ;  the 
bearers  put  down  the  palanquin,  waved  their  torches,  and  howled 
and  screamed  with  all  their  might :  the  light  and  noise  scared 
the  Emimal, — he  moved  off.  I  got  out  of  the  palanquin  to  look 
at  a  tiger  au  naturel,  saw  some  creature  moving  away,  but  could 
not  distinguish  what  animal  it  was ;  the  bearers  were  not  six 
feet  from  him  when  they  first  saw  him ;  it  was  a  fine,  clear, 
moonlight  night.  The  jangal  looked  well,  and  its  interest  was 
heightened  by  the  idea  you  might  now  and  then  see  a  wild  beast. 
A  number  of  fires  were  burning  on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and 
running  up  in  different  directions  ;  these  fires,  they  tell  me,  are 
lighted  by  the  zamindars,  to  burn  up  the  old  dry  grass  ;  when  that 
is  done,  the  new  grass  springs  up,  and  there  is  plenty  of  food  for 
the  cattle ;  the  fires  were  remarkable  in  the  darkness  of  the 
night.  For  some  miles  up  the  pass  of  Keeree,  our  way  was  over 
the  dry  bed  of  a  river ;  on  both  sides  rose  high  clifis,  covered 
with  trees  ;  the  moonlight  was  strong,  and  the  pass  one  of  great 
interest ;  here  and  there  you  heard  the  noise  of  water,  the 
pleasing  sound  of  a  mountain  stream  turning  small  mills  for 
grinding  com,  called  Panchakkl.  In  the  morning  we  arrived  at 
the  Company's  bungalow  at  Rajpur. 

Raj  pur  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Hills :  I  was  delighted 
with  the  place  ;  the  view  from  the  bungalow  put  me  in  mind  of 
Switzerland.  We  went  to  Mrs.  Theodore's  hotel,  to  see  her 
collection  of  stuffed  birds  and  beasts ;  a  complete  set  costs 
1600  rupees  (£160).  At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  between  the 
Hills  I  heard  the  most  delightful  sound  of  rushing  waters :  taking 
a  servant  with  me,  I  went  down  the  steep  footpath,  irresistibly 

VOL.   II.  Q 


226  WANDERINGS   OK    A    PILORIM. 

attracted  by  the  sound,  and  found  the  mountain  rill  collected 
into  a  mill-dam,  from  which,  rushing  down,  it  turned  several 
mills ;  and  one  of  the  streams  was  turned  off  into  the  valley, 
forming  the  httle  cascade,  the  sound  of  which  had  attracted  me. 
How  bright,  clear,  cold,  and  dehcious  was  the  water !  Being  too 
unwell  to  bear  the  fatigue  of  climbing  the  hill,  I  sent  for  a  hill- 
pony,  called  a  gunth ;  he  was  brought  down ;  the  little  fellow 
never  had  a  woman  on  his  back  before,  but  he  carried  me 
bravely  up  the  sheep-path,  for  road  there  was  none.  MotI,  the 
name  of  the  handsome  giinth,  is  an  iron-grey  hill-pony, — more 
like  a  dwarf-horse  than  a  pony ;  he  has  an  exceedingly  thick, 
shaggy  mane,  and  a  very  thick,  long  tail ; — the  most  sure-footed 
sagacious  animal ;  he  never  gets  tired,  and  will  go  all  day  up 
and  down  hill ;  seldom  fights,  and  is  never  alarmed  when 
passing  the  most  dangerous  places.  Give  your  gunth  his  head, 
and  he  will  carry  you  safely.     Horses  are  dangerous, — even  the 

most  quiet  become  alarmed  in  the  hills.     Captain  S bought 

this  gunth  at  the  Hurdwar  fair;  he  came  from  Almorah, 
cost  160  rupees  (£16) ;  and  300  rupees  have  been  refused  for 
him. 

The  following  history  was  related  to  me  concerning  the  gunth : 

— Colonel  P ,  to  whom  the  animal  was  lent,  took  him  to 

the  Snowy  Ranges ;  "In  some  pass,  by  some  accident,  the 
gunth  fell  down  a  precipice,  and  was  caught  upon  an  oak  tree. 
There  he  swung;    one  struggle  would  have   sent  him   to  the 

bottom,  and  to  certain  death  ;  he  never  moved.    Colonel  P , 

who  was  walking  at  the  time,  got  some  people,  who  descended 
to  the  place  where  the  gunth  hung,  dug  out  a  standing-place  in 
the  side  of  the  hill,  just  big  enough  to  hold  the  pony,  and  con- 
trived to  get  him  off  his  tree  into  the  spot :  the  giinth  was  so 
much  alarmed,  that  they  left  him  to  recover  fi-om  his  fright  on 
this  spot  the  whole  night ;  and  the  next  morning  got  him  up  the 
precipice  in  safety  to  the  road."  Any  horse  would  have  strug- 
■gled  and  have  been  killed ;  these  gunths  appear  to  understand 
that  they  must  be  quiet,  and  their  masters  will  help  them.  He 
is  a  queer-tempered  httle  fellow ;  he  kicked  my  sa'is  over 
one  day,  and  always  kicks  at  me  if  I  attempt  to  pat  him ;  but 


ASCENT    TO    LANDOWR.  227 

he  carries  me  capitally :    nevertheless,  he  is  "  vicious  as  he  is 
little'." 

The  whole  day  I  roamed  about  Raj  pur ;  the  Paharls  (the 
Hill-men) ,  who  had  come  down  to  bring  up  our  luggage,  were 
animals  to  stare  at :  like  the  pictures  I  have  seen  of  Tartars, — 
little  fellows,  with  such  flat  ugly  faces,  dressed  in  black  woollen 
coarse  trowsers,  a  blanket  of  the  same  over  their  shoulders ;  a 
black,  greasy,  round  leather  cap  on  their  heads,  sometimes  deco- 
rated all  round  their  faces  with  bunches  of  Hill-flowers,  freshly 
gathered ;  a  rope  round  their  waists.  Their  limbs  are  stout, 
and  the  sinews  in  the  legs  strongly  developed,  from  con- 
stantly climbing  the  Hills.  They  are  very  honest  and  very  idle  ; 
moreover,  most  exceedingly  dirty.  Such  were  the  little  Hill 
fellows  we  met  at  Rajpur. 

\Gth. — This  morning  the  gUnth  came  to  the  door  for  my 

companion  to  ride  up  the  Hills :  I  was  to  be  carried  up  in  a 

jampan.     A  jampiin  is  an  arm-chair,  with  a  top  to  it,  to  shelter 

you  from  the  sun  or  rain ;  four  long  poles  are  affixed  to  it. 

Eight  of  those  funny  little  black  Hill  fellows  were   harnessed 

between  the  poles,  after  their  fashion,  and  they  carried  me  up 

the  hill.     My  two  women  went  up  in  dolls,  a  sort  of  tray  for 

women,  in  which  one  person  can  sit  native  fashion ;  these  trays 

are  hung  upon  long  poles,  and  carried  by  Hill-men.     The  ascent 

from  Rajpur  is  seven  miles,  climbing  almost  every  yard  of  the 

way.     The  difierent  views  delighted  me  :  on  the  side  of  the  Hills 

facing  Rajpur  the  trees  were  stunted,  and  there  was  but  little 

vegetation  ;  on  the  other  side,  the  northern,  we  came  upon  fine 

oak  and  rhododendron   trees — such  beautiful  rhododendrons  ! 

they  are  forest  trees,  not  shrubs,  as  you  have  them  in  England. 

The  people  gathered  the  wild  flowers,  and  filled  my  lap  with 

them.     The  jangal  pear,  in  full  blossom,  the  raspberry  bushes, 

and  the  nettles  delighted  me  ;  I  could  not  help  sending  a  man 

from  the  plains,  who  had  never  seen  a  nettle,  to  gather  one  ;  he 

took  hold  of  it,  and,  relinquishing  his  hold  instantly  in  excessive 

surprise,  exclaimed, — "  It  has  stung  me  ;  it  is  a  scorpion  plant." 

'  Oriental  Proverbs  and  Sayings,  No.  123. 

q2 


228  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Violets  were  under  every  rock  ;  and  the  wild,  pleasing  notes  of 
the  Hill  birds  were  to  be  heard  in  every  direction.  The  delicious 
air,  so  pure,  so  bracing,  so  unlike  any  air  I  had  breathed  for 
fifteen  years, — with  what  delight  I  inhaled  it!  It  seemed  to 
promise  health  and  strength  and  spirits :  I  fancied  the  lurking 
fever  crept  out  of  my  body  as  I  breathed  the  mountain  air  ;  I 
was  so  happy,  so  glad  I  was  aUve  ;  I  felt  a  buoyancy  of  spirit, 
like  that  enjoyed  by  a  child. 

The  only  bungalow  we  could  procure  was  one  on  the  top  of 
the  hill  of  Landowr ;  it  was  an  uncomfortable  one,  but  a  roof 
was  not  to  be  despised  in  such  cold  weather :  we  had  a  fire 
lighted  instantly,  and  kept  it  burning  all  day.  Where  now  was 
the  vile  fever  that  had  bowed  me  down  in  the  plains  ?  It  had 
vanished  with  the  change  of  climate,  as  if  by  magic.  The  Hill 
air  made  me  feel  so  well  and  strong,  we  set  off"  on  our  ponies  in 

the  evening  to  visit  Mr.  E 's  house ;  it  is  beautiful,  built 

with  great  taste,  and  highly  finished  ;  its  situation  is  fine,  on  a 
hill,  at  the  further  end  of  Landowr.    Thence  we  went  to  Colonel 

P 's  bungalow,  a  good  house,  well  situated,  but  very  far 

from  supplies  ;  he  offered  it  to  me  for  the  season  for  1200  rupees 
— i.e.  £120  for  seven  months.  From  the  barracks,  at  the  top 
of  Landowr,  the  view  of  the  Snowy  Ranges  is  magnificent. 
In  any  other  country  these  hills  would  be  called  mountains  ;  but, 
being  near  the  foot  of  the  Himalaya,  that  in  the  distance  tower 
above  them,  they  have  obtained  the  title  of  "  The  Hills." 
Landowr,  Bhadraj,  Ben  Oge,  are  covered  with  oak  and  rhododen- 
dron trees  ;  the  vaUeys  between  them,  by  the  Hill  people  called 
khuds,  are  extremely  deep  :  at  the  bottom  of  these  khuds  water 
is  found  in  little  rills,  but  it  is  very  scarce.  About  two  thousand 
feet  below  Landowr  water  is  abundant,  and  there  are  some 
waterfalls.  The  HiUs  are  very  grand,  but  have  not  the  pictu- 
resque beauty  of  the  valley  of  Chamouni : — and  yet  it  is  unfair 
to  make  the  comparison  at  Landowr  ;  Chamouni  is  at  the  foot 
of  Mont  Blanc :  to  compare  the  two,  one  ought  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  foot  of  the  Snowy  Ranges,  where  their  sohtary 
grandeur  would  overpower  the  remembrance  of  Mont  Blanc.  I 
long  to  go  there  :  the  difficulties  and  privations  would  be  great ; 


MussooRi.  229 

I  could  not  go  alone,  and  the  fatigue  would  be  excessive  ;  never- 
theless, I  long  to  make  a  pilgrimage  to  Grangotri,  the  source 
of  the  Ganges. 

\7th. — S'tarted  on  our  ponies  at  7  a.m.  to  ride  to  MussoorT, 
which  is  only  a  short  distance  from  Landowr.  The  scenery 
at  that  place  is  of  a  tamer  cast ;  the  southern  side  of  the  hill, 
on  which  most  of  the  houses  are  situated,  puts  me  in  mind  of 
the  back  of  the  Isle  of  Wight,  but  on  a  larger  scale  ;  the 
projecting  rocks  and  trees,  with  gentlemen's  houses  in  every 
nook,  all  built  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  give  the  resemblance. 
The  northern  side  is  called  the  Camel's  Back,  from  a  fancied 
resemblance  of  the  hill  to  the  shape  of  that  animal ;  there  the 
scenery  differs  entirely.  The  southern  side,  on  which  Mussoori 
is  situated,  has  few  trees,  and  looks  down  on  the  valley  of  the 
Dhoon ;  the  northern  side  is  covered  with  fine  trees,  the  hills 
abrupt ;  a  wildness  and  grandeur,  unknown  on  the  southern  side, 
is  all  around  you ;  the  valleys  fearfully  deep,  the  pathway 
narrow,  and  in  some  parts  so  bad,  only  one  foot  in  breadth  is 
left  for  a  pony.  At  first  I  felt  a  cold  shudder  pass  over  me,  as 
I  rode  by  such  places ;  in  the  course  of  a  week  I  was  perfectly 
accustomed  to  the  sort  of  thing,  and  quite  fearless.  A  pathway 
three  feet  in  width  at  its  utmost  breadth,  is  a  handsome  road  in 
the  Hills ;  a  perpendicular  rock  on  one  side,  and  a  precipice, 
perhaps  three  or  four  hundred  feet  deep,  may  be  on  the  other. 
It  is  all  very  well  when  the  road  is  pretty  open ;  but  when  you 
have  to  turn  the  sharp  corner  of  a  rock,  if  looking  over  a 
precipice  makes  you  giddy,  shut  your  eyes,  and  give  your  gunth  the 
rein,  and  you  will  be  sure  to  find  yourself  safe  on  the  other  side. 
The  little  rascals  never  become  giddy  ;  and  after  a  short  time  you 
will  turn  such  comers  at  a  canter,  as  a  thing  of  course.  I  was 
delighted  with  the  wildness  of  the  scenery, — it  equalled  my 
expectations.  In  front  of  Mussoori  you  are  in  high  pubUc,  the 
road  called  the  Mall  is  from  eight  to  ten  feet  wide,  covered  with 
children,  nurses,  dogs,  and  sickly  ladies  and  gentlemen,  walking 
about  gaily  dressed.  I  always  avoid  the  Mall ;  I  go  out  for  enjoy- 
ment and  health,  and  do  not  want  to  talk  to  people.  The  children  ! 
it  is  charming  to  see  their  rosy  faces ;   they  look  as  well  and  as 


230  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

strong  as  any  children  in  England ;  the  chmate  of  the  Hills  is 
certainly  far  superior  to  that  of  England.  Not  liking  my  bun- 
galow, I  changed  it  for  another  half  way  up  the  hill  of  Landowr. 

1 7th. — Lord  Auckland  and  the  Misses  Eden  arrived  to-day, 
and  took  up  their  residence  at  Colonel  Young's,  a  little  below, 
on  the  hill  of  Landowr. 

From  my  bungalow  the  view  is  beautiful,  and  we  have  as 
much  air  as  man  can  desire.  The  first  thing  was  to  get  pardas, 
stuffed  with  cotton,  for  every  window  and  door;  the  next,  to 
hire  a  set  of  Hill-men,  to  cut  and  bring  wood  from  the  khuds, 
and  water  and  grass  for  the  ponies.  A  long  ride  round  Waverly 
was  the  evening's  amusement ;  then  came  a  dinner  of  excellent 
HUl-mutton,  by  the  side  of  a  blazing  fire  of  the  beautiful  rhodo- 
dendron wood !  The  well-closed  doors  kept  out  the  cold,  and 
my  kind  relative  congratulated  me  on  having  lost  my  fever,  and 
being  so  comfortable  in  the  Hills. 

Visited  Mr.  Webb's  hotel  for  families  ;  it  is  an  excellent  one, 
and  very  commodious.  There  is  a  ball-room,  and  five  billiard 
tables  with  slate  beds ;  these  slate  beds  have  only  just  arrived  in 
India,  and  have  very  lately  been  introduced  in  England. 

\9th. — During  the  time  I  was  waiting  for  my  relative,  who 
had  accompanied  Lord  Auckland,  to  show  him  the  hospital  and 
the  different  buildings  at  Landowr,  which  were  under  his  charge, 
my  attention  was  arrested  by  a  great  number  of  HiU-men,  carry- 
ing large  bundles  of  moss  down  to  the  plains  ;  they  grind  up  the 
moss  with  barley-meal,  and  use  it  as  soap ;  it  is  in  great  repute 
at  weddings. 

Rode  my  little  black  horse,  but  found  him  not  so  pleasant  in 
the  Hills  as  a  gunth,  and  more  fatiguing.  At  the  foot  of 
Landowr  there  is  an  excellent  bazar :  eveiy  thing  is  to  be  had 
there, — Pdte'efoie  gras,  be'casses  truffe's,  shola  hats  covered  with 
the  skin  of  the  pelican,  champagne,  bareilly  couches,  shoes, 
Chinese  books,  pickles,  long  poles  for  climbing  the  mountains,  and 
'various  incongruous  articles.  Many  years  ago,  a  curious  little 
rosary  had  been  brought  me  from  the  santa  casa  of  our  Lady  of 
Loretto  ; — a  fac-simile  of  the  little  curiosity  was  lying  for  sale  in 
the  Landowr  bazar,  amongst  a  lot  of  Hindustani  shoes  ! 


CLOUD    END.  231 

The  Goveraor-General  and  his  party  quitted  Landowr,  and 
returned  to  Rajpiir,  on  their  march  to  Simla,  up  the  valley  of 
the  Deyra  Doon. 

In  the  evening  I  rode  out  to  see  Ben  Oge  and  Bhadraj :  at  the 
foot  of  Ben  Oge  is  a  boys'  school ;  a  number  of  little  fellows 
were  out  at  play.  There  is  also  a  girls'  school  at  Mussoori. 
Here  English  children  can  receive  some  education  in  a  fine 
climate. 

20th. — Rainy ;  thermometer  in  the  verandah  at  noon,  56° ; 
at  3  o'clock  P.M.  54°. 

2\st. — The  Hills  covered  and  hidden  by  deep  clouds  ;  thunder 
and  lightning,  with  some  rain.  Thermometer,  8  A.  m.  46° ; 
evening  fine,  heavy  rain  at  night. 

23rd. — Captain  E.  S has  an  estate  in  the  Hills,  called 

Cloud  End, — a  beautiful  mountain,  of  about  sixty  acres,  covered 
with  oak  trees :  on  this  spot  he  had  long  wished  to  build  a 
house,  and  had  prepared  the  plan,  but  his  duties  as  an  engineer 
prevented  his  being  long  enough  at  a  time  in  the  Hills  to  accom- 
plish the  object.  I  offered  to  superintend  the  work  during  his 
absence,  if  he  would  mark  out  the  foundation  :  a  morning's  ride 
brought  us  to  his  estate,  situated  between  a  hill,  called  "  the 
Park,"  and  Ben  Oge,  with  Bhadraj  to  the  west ;  the  situation  is 
beautiful, — the  hills  magnificent  and  well-wooded.  Having 
fixed  on  the  spot  for  the  house, — the  drawing-room  windows  to 
face  a  noble  view  of  tjie  Snowy  Ranges, — the  next  thing  was  to 
mark  a  pathway  to  be  cut  into  the  Khud,  a  descent  of  two 
miles,  for  the  mules  to  bring  up  water. 

The  plan  of  the  house  was  then  marked  out,  and  a  site  was 
selected  for  my  hill-tent,  commanding  a  view  of  the  Himalaya : 
this  little  tent  was  made  to  order  at  Fathlgarh, — it  is  twelve  feet 
square,  the  walls  four  feet  high,  and  has  two  doors.  A  stone 
wall  is  to  be  built  around  it,  a  chimney  at  one  end,  and  a  glass 
door  at  the  other  ;  a  thatch  will  be  placed  over  it,  and  this  will 
be  my  habitation  when  I  go  to  Cloud  End,  or  when  I  make 
excursions  into  the  Hills ;  my  kitchen  will  be  an  old  oak  tree. 
The  Hills  are  so  steep,  a  single  pole  tent  of  the  usual  size  can  be 
pitched  in  very  few  places.     Under  an  old  oak,  on  a  rock  covered 


232  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

with  wild  flowers,  I  sat  and  enjoyed  the  scene :  the  valley  of  the 
Doon  lay  stretched  before  me,  and  the  HUls  around  me.  There 
is  a  I'hododendron  tree  on  this  estate  that  bears  white  flowers, — 
it  is  a  great  rarity,  and  highly  prized ;  all  the  flowers  of  the 
other  rhododendron  trees  are  of  a  magnificent  crimson.  The 
Hill-men  are  fond  of  sucking  the  juice  from  the  petals,  which, 
it  is  said,  possesses  an  intoxicating  quality. 

Stormy-looking  clouds  were  roUing  up  from  the  valley  towards 
the  HUls :  returning  home,  we  were  caught  in  as  fine  a  storm  as 
I  almost  ever  beheld ;  it  was  a  glorious  sight, — the  forked 
Ughtning  was  superb,  the  thunder  resounded  from  hill  to  hill, 
the  hail  and  rain  fell  heavily :  for  about  two  hours  the  storm 
raged.  We  took  shelter  in  a  Europe  shop ;  towards  night  it 
decreased  ;  wrapped  in  black  blankets,  which  we  procured  from 
the  baziir,  we  got  home  in  safety  ;  the  rain  could  not  penetrate 
the  black  blankets,  the  wool  of  which  is  so  oily.  The  stonn 
raged  with  violence  during  the  night,  but  I  heard  it  not :  in  the 
morning  the  Hill-tops  were  covered  with  snow:  at  7  a.m.  the 
thermometer  38°  in  the  verandah  ;  in  the  room  at  noon  with  a 
fire  it  stood  at  57°. 

25th. — My  relative  left  me,  taking  back  all  useless  servants, 
and  the  camels  from  Rajpur. 

Visited  the  Hospital,  of  which  Mr.  Morrow  is  the  steward,  to 
see  his  collection  of  birds.  The  specimens  are  very  well  pre- 
served with  arsenical  soap,  and  they  sell  well  on  that  account : 
he  had  two  pair  of  the  Mooniil  pheasants  alive,  their  plumage 
bright  and  beautiful.  The  collection  was  large ;  I  selected  only 
a  few  specimens,  as  follows  : — 

The  Golden  Eagle  of  the  Himalaya  :  a  bird  I  have  often  seen 
flying  around  Landowr  ;  and  a  remarkably  fine  one.  Also  the 
Black  Eagle  of  these  mountains. 

The  Loonjee,  or  Red  Pheasant,  from  the  deep  forests  of  the 
Himalaya :  a  bird  rare  and  valuable ;  the  skin  on  the  neck  is 
peculiar  ;  in  confinement  they  are  timid  and  quiet,  but  the  light 
annoys  them,  from  being  accustomed  to  the  shade  of  the 
forests. 

The  Moonal,  Duffieah,  or  Blue  Pheasant  of  the  Himalaya : 


HILL    BIRDS.  233 

these  birds  are  brought  from  the  interior  ;  they  are  seldom  found 
so  far  down  as  I^andowr ;  nevertheless,  one  was  shot  at  Cloud 
End,  Bhadraj  ;  they  are  timid  at  first  in  confinement, — after  a  few 
days,  they  will  eat  wheat  in  your  presence,  and  show  no  signs  of 
alarm.  The  eggs  they  lay  when  in  cages  might  be  brought  to 
England ;  why  should  they  not  thrive  in  our  climate,  since  they 
are  inhabitants  of  a  cold  region  ?  The  hen-bird,  although  less 
splendid  in  plumage  than  the  cock,  is  very  game. 

The  Koklas  Pheasant,  common  in  the  Hills,  is  also  a  very 
game-looking  bird. 

The  CaUinge  Pheasant,  with  its  peculiar  top-knot,  is,  as  well  as 
those  before  mentioned,  excellent  food .  Other  pheasants  are  found 
in  the  Himalaya,  of  which  I  was  unable  to  procure  specimens. 

Black  Partridges  :  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world  are  found 
in  most  parts  of  India ;  they  are  a  great  delicacy. 

The  Chakor,  or  Red-legged  Partridge :  very  similar  to  the 
French  Partridge ;  excellent  food  :  they  may  be  rendered  so  tame, 
they  will  run  about  the  house  and  garden.  Chakor,  the 
Bartavelli,  or  Greek  Partridge  (Perdix  chukar,  Gould.  Perdix 
rufa,  Lath)  :  said  to  be  enamoured  of  the  moon,  and  to  eat  fire 
at  the  full  of  the  moon.  This  bird  is  also  called  atash-khwar  (fire- 
eater),  a  variety  of  Tetrao  rufus,  Lin. ;  called,  in  Hindi,  Chakor. 
It  is  also  denominated  "  Moon  Bird,"  and  "  Minion  of  the 
Moon."     The  common  grey  partridge  is  coarse  and  inferior. 

Bush  Quail  and  Rock  Quail :  beautiful  and  delicious.  When 
buying  a  number  of  quail,  which  are  caught  in  nets,  you  will 
rarely  find  a  cock  bird,  if  caught  near  Lucnow,  or  any 
native  court ;  they  are  taken  out,  and  sold  as  fighting  birds. 
Quail  are  numerous  all  over  India,  and  generally  sold  twenty-five 
per  rupee. 

A  Jangal  Cock  and  Hen  :  the  wild  cock  and  hen  of  the  woods, 
common  over  all  India ;  the  stock  to  which  all  common  fowls 
owe  their  origin.  There  are  various  kinds  of  fowls  in  India ; 
the  ghagas  are  large,  fine,  and  very  long  legged,  Uke  game  birds ; 
the  chatgaiyan  are  fine  also  ;  the  karaknath  are  considered  very 
delicate  by  the  natives,  but  the  purple  colour  of  their  bones  has 
a  disagreeable  appearance. 


234  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

Green  Pigeons :  beautiful  birds.  Blue  Pigeons :  which 
inhabit  the  wells ;  it  is  said  the  fare  of  an  aide-de-camp  is 
"  hard  work  and  blue  pigeons  !" 

The  Barbet,  the  Blackbird,  the  Blue-winged  Jay,  the  Long- 
tailed  Blue  Jay,  the  Woodpecker,  Humming  Birds,  the  Shah 
Humming  Bird,  the  Mocking  Bird,  and  the  Cuckoo,  whose 
note  is  delightful  in  the  Hills,  recalling  thoughts  of  early  youth 
and  home. 

The  Chand  Chuck,  the  King  Crow  :  a  most  courageous  little 
fellow,  who  fights  and  bulhes  all  the  crows  in  admirable  style  : 
hence  his  name.  King  Crow. 

Flycatchers,  DhobI  Birds,  Magpies,  and  the  Rana  Chiriya : 
the  colour  of  the  cock  is  a  brilliant  scarlet ;  that  of  the  ranee, 
the  hen-bird,  is  a  bright  yellow.  They  appear  during  the  hot 
winds. 

The  Mango  Bird :  so  called  as  they  are  seen  during  the 
mango  season. 

The  Rocket  Bird :  with  the  most  elegant  long  white  feathers 
in  its  tail. 

The  birds  brought  from  the  interior  by  the  Paharls  must 
have  the  moss  taken  out  with  which  they  are  stuffed,  and  be  pre- 
pared with  arsenical  soap ;  otherwise,  the  feathers  will  fall  off. 

28th. — Some  Hill-men  brought  me  two  pair  of  the  Moonal 
pheasants  alive ;  I  bought  them.  They  eat  wheat,  and  live 
verj'^  quietly  in  their  cages. 

31*^ — Spent  the  day  at  Cloud  End,  overlooking  the  work- 
men. The  mountain  on  which  they  are  building  the  house 
will  supply  almost  all  the  materials :  the  stones,  which  are 
cut  out  of  it  for  the  walls  of  the  house,  are  at  first  so  soft, 
they  appear  to  be  rotten ;  but  exposure  to  the  air  will  harden 
them  in  a  fortnight.  The  beams  are  from  the  old  oak  trees  ; 
the  lime  is  burned  from  the  stones ;  but  the  slates  are  to  be 
brought  from  a  neighbouring  mountain ;  and  the  frames  for 
tJie  doors  and  windows  will  be  procured,  ready-made,  from 
Rajpur. 

The  day  was  very  hot,  but  the  breeze  delightful :  returning 
home,  I  was  seized  with  illness,  and  my  pulse  being  one  hundred 


NEWLANDS.  235 

and  twenty,  called  in  medical  aid.  It  is  not  agreeable  to  be 
suffering  from  illness,  on  the  top  of  a  mountain,  far  away 
from  all  one's  friends, — depressed,  and  out  of  spirits,  with 
nothing  to  amuse  one  but  the  leeches,  hanging,  like  love-locks, 
from  one's  temples. 

A  recovery  from  illness  is  a  pleasant  state,  where  you  have 
around  you  beautiful  scenery  and  pure  air.  The  Hills  have 
all  that  secret  treasury  of  spots,  so  secluded,  that  you  seem  to 
be  their  first  discoverer ;  lonely  glens  and  waterfalls,  on  which 
the  sun's  rays  scarcely  rest  one  hour  in  the  twenty-four ; 
cold  hidden  basins  of  living  water ;  and  all  so  shut  out  from 
intrusion  of  the  human  race,  that,  in  spirit,  you  become  blended 
with  the  scene. 

April  \6th. — ^Spent  the  day  at  Mr.  E 's  :  in  the  evening, 

as  we  were  going  down  the  hill,  which  is  exceedingly  steep, 
I  was  so  nervous,  from  recent  fever,  that  I  could  not  ride  down 
the  descent ;  therefore  the  gunth  was  led,  cmd  I  walked.  The 
pathway,  or  rather  sheep -track,  not  one  foot  in  breadth,  is 
covered  with   loose   stones,   and  on  the   edge   of  a  precipice. 

Miss   B rode   down   perfectly   unconcerned.       From  the 

bottom  of  the  Khud  I  rode  up  the  next  hill,  to  see  a  house, 
called  Newlands ;  which  has  been  struck  and  burned  three 
times  by  lightning.  The  hill  is  said  to  contain  a  quantity  of 
iron,  which  attracts  the  electric  fluid.  A  lady  and  her  ayha 
were  killed  there  by  the  lightning.  On  my  return  I  rode  up 
the  hill  I  had  not  had  the  courage  to  ride  down ;  even  that  was 
enough  to  make  me  nervous,  after  having  suffered  from  recent 
fever  so  many  days.  A  short  time  ago,  as  Major  Blundell 
was  going  to  that  very  house,  Newlands,  by  some  accident,  his 
gunth  fell  over  the  precipice,  and  they  were  both  dashed  to 
pieces.  At  one  place  I  dismounted,  and  climbed  the  side  of  the 
bank,  whilst  the  servants  held  the  gunths  during  the  time 
three  mules  had  to  pass  them.  The  passing  was  effected  with 
great  difficulty,  and  one  of  the  mules  was  nearly  over  the  preci- 
pice, so  narrow  was  the  pathway. 


CHAPTER   LIV. 


PICTURESQUE  SCENES  IN  THE  HILLS. 

Jerripani — The  Cicalas — View  from  the  Pilgrim's  Bangla — A  Fall  over  a 
Precipice — The  Glow-worm — Wild-beast  Track — The  Scorpion — Mules — 
Karral  Sheep  —  Wet  Days  —  Noisy  Boys — Conical  Hills — The  Khuds — 
Earthquake  at  Cloud  End — The  Waterfall — Fall  of  a  Lady  and  Horse  over 
a  Precipice — Kalunga — General  Gillespie — The  Kookree — The  Ghoorkas — 
The  Korah — The  Sling — Ben  Oge — Danger  of  Exposure  to  the  Mid-day 
Sun — An  Earthquake — A  Spaniel  seized  by  a  Leopard — A  Party  at  Cloud 
End — A  Buffer  encounters  a  Bear — Hills  on  Fire — Botanical  Gardens — 
Commencement  of  the  Rains — Expedition  to  the  Summit  of  Bhadraj  — Mag- 
nificence of  the  Clouds — Storms  in  High  Places  — Danger  of  Narrow  Roads 
during  the  Rains — Introduction  of  Slated  Roofs  in  the  Hills, 

1838,  April  17 th. — Started  on  my  glinth,  the  day  being  cloudy 
and  cold,  to  make  a  call  some  miles  off  down  the  hill,  at 
Jerripani.  The  elevation  of  Jerripani  is  much  less  than  that 
of  Landowr,  and  the  diflFerence  in  the  vegetation  reraai-kable  : 
here,  the  young  leaves  of  the  oaks  are  just  budding, — there,  they 
are  in  full  leaf ;  here,  the  raspberry  is  in  flower, — there,  in  fruit. 

"  The  clematis,  the  favoured  flower, 
That  boasts  the  name  of  Virgin's  Bower," 

was  at  Jerripani  in  beautiful  profusion,  sometimes  hanging  its 
white  clusters  over  the  yellow  flowers  of  the  barbery.  The 
wjoodbine  delighted  me  with  its  fragrance,  and  the  remembrance 
of  days  of  old ;  and  the  rhododendron  trees  were  in  full  grandeur. 
Near  one  clump  of  old  oaks,  covered  with  moss  and  ivy,  I 
stopped  to  listen  to  the  shrill  cries  of  the  cicala,    a   sort  of 


VIEW    FROM    THE    PILGRIm's    BANGLA.  237 

transparently-winged  beetle  :  the  sounds  are  like  what  we  might 
fancy  the  notes  would  be  of  birds  gone  crazy. 

"  The  shrill  cicalas,  people  of  the  pine, — 
Making  their  summer  lives  one  ceaseless  song, 
Were  the  sole  echoes,  save  my  steed's  and  mine." 

The  road  was  remarkably  picturesque,  the  wind  high  and  cold 
— a  delightful  breeze,  the  sky  cloudy,  and  the  scenery  beautiful  : 
I  enjoyed  a  charming  ride,  returned  home  laden  with  wild 
flowers,  and  found  amusement  for  some  hours,  comparing  them 
with  Loudon's  Encyclopedia.  A  pony,  that  was  grazing  on  the 
side  of  Landowr  close  to  my  house,  fell  down  the  precipice,  and 
was  instantly  killed  :  my  ayha  came  to  tell  me  that  the  privates 
of  the  1 6th  Lancers  and  of  the  Buffs  ate  horseflesh,  for  she  had 
seen  one  of  them  bring  up  a  quantity  of  the  pony's  flesh  in  a 
towel ; — I  ventured  to  observe,  the  man  might  have  dogs  to 
feed. 

VIEW    FROM    THE    PILGRIM 's    BANGLA. 

I9th. — The  view  from  the  verandah  of  my  bangla  or  house  is 
very  beautiful :  directly  beneath  it  is  a  precipice ;  opposite  is 
that  part  of  the  hill  of  Landowr  on  which  stands  the  sanatorium 
for  the  military,  at  present  occupied  by  the  invalids  of  the  1 6th 
Lancers  and  of  the  Buffs.  The  hill  is  covered  with  grass,  and 
the  wild  potato  grows  there  in  profusion ;  beyond  is  a  high  steep 
rock,  which  can  only  be  ascended  by  a  very  precipitous  path  on 
one  side  of  it ;  it  is  crowned  by  a  house  called  Lall  Tiba,  and  is 
covered  with  oak  and  rhododendron  trees.  Below,  surrounded 
with  trees,  stands  the  house  of  Mr.  Connolly ;  and  beyond  that, 
in  the  distance,  are  the  snow-covered  mountains  of  the  lower 
range  of  the  Himalaya.  The  road — if  the  narrow  pathway, 
three  feet  in  breadth,  may  deserve  so  dignified  an  appellation — 
is  to  the  right,  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  and  on  the  other  side 
is  the  perpendicular  rock  out  of  which  it  has  been  cut.  This 
morning  I  heard  an  outcry,  and  ran  to  see  what  had  happened ; 
just  below,  and  directly  in  front  of  my  house,  an  accident  had 
occurred  :  an  ofiicer  of  the  Buffs  had  sent  a  valuable  horse  down 


238  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

the  hill,  in  charge  of  his  groom ;  they  met  some  mules  laden 
with  water-bags,  where  the  path  was  narrow,  the  bank  perpen- 
dicular on  the  one  side,  and  the  precipice  on  the  other ;  the 
groom  led  the  horse  on  the  side  of  the  precipice,  he  kicked  at 
the  mules,  his  feet  descended  over  the  edge  of  the  road,  and 
down  he  went — a  dreadful  fall,  a  horrible  crash  ;  the  animal  was 
dead  ere  he  reached  a  spot  where  a  tree  stopped  his  further 
descent :  the  precipice  is  almost  perpendicular. 

22nd. — Found  a  glow-worm  of  immense  size  on  the  side  of  the 
hill :  a  winged  glow-worm  flew  in,  and  alighted  on  the  table ;  it 
is  small,  not  a  quarter  the  size  of  the  other. 

23rd. — ^During  the  night,  some  animal  came  into  the  verandah, 
killed  one  of  the  Mooniil  hen  pheasants,  and  wounded  the  cock 
bird  so  severely  that  he  will  die.  There  is  a  wild-beast  track  on 
the  side  of  the  hill  opposite  my  house,  along  which  I  have 
several  times  seen  some  animal  skulking  in  the  dusk  of  the 
evening. 

25th. — Accompanied  some  friends  to  breakfast  in  my  cottage- 
tent  at  Cloud  End.  We  laid  out  a  garden,  and  sowed  flower 
seeds  around  the  spot  where  my  little  tent  is  pitched,  beneath 
the  trees ;  while  thus  employed,  I  found  a  scorpion  among  the 
moss  and  leaves  where  I  was  sitting,  which  induced  me  to  repeat 
those  lines  of  Byron  : — 

"  The  mind  that  broods  o'er  guilty  woes 
Is  like  the  scorpion  girt  by  fire, — 
In  circle  narrowing  as  it  glows, 
Tlie  flames  around  their  captive  close, 
Till,  inly  search'd  by  thousand  throes, 
And  maddening  in  her  ire. 
One  sad  and  sole  relief  she  knows, 
The  sting  she  nourish'd  for  her  foes, 
Whose  venom  never  yet  was  vain, 
Gives  but  one  pang,  and  cures  all  pain, 
And  darts  into  her  desperate  brain." 

"  My  memory  was  a  source  of  woe  to  the  scorpion  at  Bhadrdj ; 
they  surrounded  him  with  a  circle  of  fire  ;  as  the  heat  annoyed 
him  he  strove  to  get  over  the  circle,  but  the  burning  charcoal 
drove  him  back  ;  at  last,  mad  with  pain,  he  drove  his  sting  into 


THE    SCORPION.  239 

his  own  back  ;  a  drop  of  milk-white  fluid  was  on  the  sting,  and 
was  left  on  the  spot  which  he  struck  ;  immediately  afterwards 

the  scorpion  died  :    Mr.  R saw  him  strike  the  sting  into 

his  own  back.  When  it  was  over  we  felt  a  little  ashamed  of  our 
scientific  cruelty,  and  buried  the  scorpion  with  all  due  honour 
below  the  ashes  that  had  consumed  him :  a  burnt  sacrifice  to 
science.  In  a  note  in  "the  Giaour,"  the  idea  is  mentioned  as 
an  error,  of  the  scorpion's  committing  suicide,  but  I  was  one  of 
the  witnesses  to  the  fact. 

29th. — Saw  a  fine  mule  for  sale  for  £10,  and  bought  him  imme- 
diately for  my  own  riding  ;  mules  are  generally  very  safe  on  these 
dangerous  roads.  Also  purchased  two  smaller  ones  for  the  estate 
for  £9,  water-bags  and  all.  A  man  brought  a  number  of  fine  fat 
Karral  sheep,  fit  for  table,  from  the  interior,  where  they  are 
fattened  on  acorns  ;  I  purchased  four  of  them  for  twenty-four 
rupees  eight  anas  ;  the  mutton  is  delicious  ;  they  have  short 
tails  and  large  horns,  are  very  strong,  and  their  fleeces,  long  and 
warm,  are  suited  to  their  own  hill  climate. 

30^/t. — The  weather  constantly  fine,  cool,  and  pleasant ;  we 
have  a  little  fire  lighted  merely  in  the  morning  and  evening. 
Purchased  Sancho,  a  handsome  retriever,  from  a  private  in  the 
Lancers. 

May  \st. — My  friend  Mrs.  B and  her  four  children  have 

arrived ;  I  invited  them  to  come  and  stay  with  me  ;  the  children 
are  most  interesting, — nevertheless,  their  noise  drives  me  half 
crazy  ;  my  life  has  been  so  perfectly  quiet  and  solitary  of  late, 
the  change  makes  my  head  ache. 

Sunday,  6th. — Unable  to  go  to  church  at  Mussoorl ;  constant 
rain,  very  cold  and  chilly ;  the  clouds  are  hanging  over  the 
mountains  in  white  heavy  masses,  or  drifting  on  this  powerful 
wind  up  the  valleys,  or  rather  between  the  ridges  of  the  Hills. 
I  went  into  the  verandah,  to  see  if  the  Italian  greyhounds  were 
warmly  housed,  and  could  not  help  exclaiming,  "  How  delicious 
is  this  coldness  in  the  Hills !  —  it  is  just  as  wet,  windy,  and 
wretched  as  in  England  :"  thus  mingling  the  recollected  misery 
of  a  wet,  raw  day  in  England,  and  the  delight  of  a  cold  day 
in  India.     The  boys  are  calling  me  to  have  a  game  of  marbles 


240  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

with    little    apples, — the    small    sweet    aj)ples    we    get    from 
Meerut. 

My  mule,  who  has  been  christened  Don  Pedro,  carries  me 
beautifully ;  we  canter  and  trot  up  and  down  hill  at  an  excellent 
pace ;  he  has  but  one  fault, — a  dangerous  one  in  the  Hills, — 
that  of  shying ;  he  would  be  worth  two  hundred  rupees  if  he 
were  not  timid. 

The  conical  form  of  The  Hills  is  their  great  peculiarity ;  in 
order  to  gain  sufficient  level  ground,  on  which  to  build  the  house 
at  Bhadraj,  it  was  necessary  to  cut  off  the  top  of  the  hill, — a  work 
of  labour  and  expense.  A  khud  is  a  valley  between  two  hills, 
which  is  generally  very  narrow,  so  much  so,  that  a  horse  might 
leap  across  the  bottom  of  several  of  the  khuds  I  have  seen  near 
Landowr.  The  building  of  the  house  at  Cloud  End  has  proceeded 
at  a  great  rate  ;  five  hundred  Hill-coolies  are  constantly  employed 
under  the  eye  of  an  European,  to  keep  them  at  their  work.  The 
house  has  been  roofed  in,  and  my  relative  has  come  up  from 
Meerut,  to  have  the  slates  put  on  after  some  peculiar  hikmat 
(fashion)  of  his  own. 

7th. — The  storm  of  yesterday  rendered  the  air  so  pure  and 
clear,  it  was  most  refreshing  ;  I  mounted  my  mule,  and  went  to 
spend  the  day  at  Bhadraj.  The  Snowy  Ranges  were  distinct  and 
beautiful,  the  wild  flowers  lovely  on  every  rock ;  the  ride  was 
one  of  great  enjoyment.  The  wild  notes  of  the  Hill  birds  were 
heard  in  every  direction,  and  the  cuckoo  was  sending  forth  its 
old  famiUar  note.  On  my  arrival  I  found  one  of  the  ponies  at 
the  estate  had  been  killed  by  a  fall  over  the  precipice  when 
bringing  up  water  from  the  khud. 

\4th. — Capt.  S says,  a  very  severe  earthquake  was  felt 

at  his  estate  during  the  storm  the  other  night :  he  was  asleep  in 
the  outer  building,  and  was  awakened  by  the  shock,  which  threw 
down  the  gable  end  of  it ;  fortunately,  the  large  stones  fell 
outwards,  or  he  would  have  been  killed  on  his  bed  ;  he  ran  out, 
and  took  refuge  in  the  little  tent.  The  shock  also  spht  open  the 
stone  wall  of  the  mule-shed.  Although  his  estate  is  only  six 
miles  off,  we  did  not  feel  the  earthquake  at  Landowr. 

\8th. — My  fair  friend  and  myself  having  been  invited  to  a 


THE    WATERFALL.  241 

pic-nic  at  a  waterfall,  about  two  thousand  feet  below  Landowr, 
we  started  on  our  gunths  at  5  a.m.  ;  the  tents,  servants,  and 
provisions  had  gone  on  the  day  before ;  none  of  us  knew  the 
way,  but  we  proceeded,  after  quitting  the  road,  by  a  footpath 
that  led  up  and  down  the  steepest  hills  ;  it  was  scarcely  possible 
for  the  gunths  to  go  over  it.  At  8  a.m.  we  arrived,  completely 
tired,  and  found  an  excellent  breakfast  ready.  The  waterfall 
roared  in  the  khud  below,  and  amidst  the  trees  we  caught 
glimpses  of  the  mountain  torrent  chafing  and  rushing  along. 
After  breakfast  the  gentlemen  went  out  to  explore  the  path  to 
the  waterfall ;  we  soon  grew  too  impatient  to  await  their  return, 
and  followed  them. 

We  descended  into  the  khud,  and  I  was  amusing  myself  jumping 
from  rock  to  rock,  and  thus  passing  up  the  centre  of  the  brawling 
mountain  stream,  aided  by  my  long  pahari  pole  of  rous  wood,  and 
looking  for  the  picturesque,  when  my  fair  friend,  attempting  to 
foUow  me,  fell  from  the  rocks  into  the  water, — and  very  pictu- 
resque and  very  Undine -hke  she  looked  in  the  stream !  We 
returned  to  the  tents  to  have  her  garments  dried  in  the  sun,  and 
while  the  poor  little  lady  was  doing  penance,  I  wandered  down 
the  stream,  of  which  the  various  waterfalls  are  beautiful ;  and, 
although  there  was  a  burning  sun  on  the  top  of  the  Hills,  down 
below,  by  the  water,  it  was  luxuriously  cool.  The  path  I  took 
was  straight  down  the  torrent ;  I  wandered  alone  for  three  hours, 
refreshing  myself  with  wild  strawberries,  barberries,  raspberries, 
and  various  other  Hill  fruits  that  hung  around  the  stream  on 
every  side.  The  flowers  were  beautiful,  the  wild  ferns  luxuriant, 
the  noise  of  the  torrent  most  agreeable, — in  fact,  all  was  charming. 
On  my  return,  I  found  the  party  at  the  foot  of  a  beautiful 
waterfall,  eighty  feet  in  height ;  the  spot  was  lovely,  it  was 
overhung  with  trees,  from  the  topmost  boughs  of  which  gigantic 
climbers  were  pendant.  How  gaily  did  we  partake  of  excellent 
wine  and  good  fare  on  that  delicious  spot !  It  was  nearly  sunset 
ere  we  mounted  our  gunths,  and  took  the  path  through  the 
village  of  Buttah. 

This  village  is  inhabited  by  Hill  people  ;  I  saw  a  very  good- 
looking  woman  at  a  cottage  door,  in  a  very  picturesque  dress, 

VOL.  II.  R 


242  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

and  wished  to  go  and  speak  to  her,  but  was  deterred  from  so 
doing,  as  the  Hill-men  appeared  to  dislike  the  gentlemen  passing 
near  the  village  :  I  must  go  alone  some  day,  and  see  her  again. 
By  mistake  we  lost  the  path,  and  got  into  paddy  fields,  where 
we  were  obliged  to  dismount,  and  take  the  ponies  down  the  most 
dangerous  places.  My  fair  companion  was  on  a  mare  from  the 
plains  ;  we  were  obliged  to  tie  a  rope  to  the  animal,  and  leap  her 
down  those  places  over  which  the  ponies  scrambled;  we  went  down 
the  dry  bed  of  a  torrent  for  some  distance,  and  it  was  most  curious 
to  see  how  the  gunths  got  over  and  down  the  rocks.  Walking 
fatigued  me  to  excess  ;  I  mounted  my  gunth,  and  rode  up  some 
frightful  places,  up  the  bed  of  a  small  torrent,  where  there  was 
no  path  ;  the  gunth  clambered  up  the  rocks  in  excellent  style. 

Presently  Mrs.  B thought  she  would  do  the  same  ;  she  had 

not  been  on  the  mare  ten  minutes  when  I  heard  a  cry,  "  The 
mem  sahiba  has  fallen  into  the  khud  !"  Her  horse  had  refused 
to  clamber  up  a  rocky  ascent,  I  suppose  she  checked  him,  he 
swerved  round,  and  fell  down  the  khud ;  fortunately  he  fell  on 
his  right  side,  therefore  her  limbs  were  above  him,  and  they 
slipped  down  together,  the  horse  lying  on  his  side,  until,  by  the 
happiest  chance,  his  downward  course  was  stopped  by  a  tree. 
The  sa'Ises  ran  down,  pulled  her  off,  and  brought  her  up  the 
HiU;  afterwards  they  got  the  horse  up  again  in  safety.  But 
for  the  tree,  the  lady  and  her  steed  would  have  been  dashed  to 
pieces ;  she  was  bruised,  but  not  much  hurt.  Her  scream 
alarmed  me, — I  thought  it  was  all  over.  We  returned  com- 
pletely tired ;  but  the  day  had  been  one  of  great  delight,  the 
scenery  lovely,  and  the  air  delicious. 

From  Landowr,  looking  towards  Hurdwar,  the  isolated  Hill 
of  Kalunga  or  Nalapani,  with  its  table-land  and  Fortress  on  the 
highest  extremity,  is  visible.  When  the  steady  coolness  and 
bravery  of  the  Ghoorkas,  united  with  insurmountable  obstacles, 
compelled  our  troops  to  fall  back,  General  Gillespie  determined 
.  to  carry  the  place ;  and,  at  the  head  of  three  companies  of  the 
53rd  Regiment,  reached  a  spot  within  thirty  yards  of  a  wicket 
defended  by  a  gun  ;  there,  as  he  was  cheering  the  men, — waving 
his  hat  in  one  hand,  and  his  sword  in  the  other,  he  was  shot 


THE    GHOORKAS.  243 

through  the  heart,  and  fell  dead  on  the  spot.  Thus  died  as 
brave  and  reckless  a  cavalier  as  ever  put  spur  on  heel ;  his 
sword  is  one  of  the  interesting  relics  of  my  museum.  T  never 
meet  a  hardy,  active  httle  Ghoorka,  with  a  countenance  like  a 
Tartar,  and  his  kookree  at  his  side,  but  I  feel  respect  for  him, 
remembering  the  defence  of  Kalunga.  The  women  showed  as 
much  bravery  as  the  men  ;  showers  of  arrows  and  stones  were 
discharged  at  the  enemy :  the  women  threw  the  stones  dexte- 
rously, —  severe  wounds  were  inflicted  by  them ;  and  they 
undauntedly  exposed  themselves  to  the  fire  of  the  enemy ; 
they  acted  with  the  natural  courage  inherent  in  us  all,  never 
having  been  taught  that  it  was  pretty  and  interesting  to  be 
sweet,  timid  creatures  !  Perhaps,  after  all,  the  noble  conduct  of 
these  Ghoorka  women  may  be  traced  to  a  reason  given  by  a 
modem  European  author,  who  covertly  asserts,  that  women, 
not  having  souls  as  men  have,  are  guided  in  all  their  actions  by 
instinct !  The  Hindiis  are  equally  compUmentary,  and  assert, — 
"  A  woman  cannot  be  kept  in  due  subjection,  either  by  gifts,  or 
kindness,  or  correct  conduct,  or  the  greatest  services,  or  the 
laws  of  morahty,  or  by  the  terror  of  punishment, — for  she  cannot 
discriminate  between  good  and  evil !" 

The  kookree  is  a  semicircular,  long,  heavy  knife,  always 
carried  by  the  Ghoorkas ;  sometimes  the  sheath  is  curiously 
embroidered  with  strips  from  the  qmll  of  the  peacock's  feather : 
two  small  crooked  knives  are  generally  in  the  same  sheath. 
The  kookree  is  used  for  war  as  well  as  for  all  domestic 
purposes. 

The  sword  used  by  the  Ghoorka  officers  called  a  "  korah,"  or 
a  "  bughalee,"  is  also  used  by  the  executioners  in  China  for 
decapitation,  with  a  back-handed  drawing  cut. 

The  sUng  used  by  Hill-men  is  made  of  a  thick  long  cord  of 
worsted,  having  a  little  breadth  in  the  centre,  in  which,  having 
placed  the  stone,  they  whisk  the  sling  round,  and  launch  it. 
Specimens  of  all  these  weapons  I  brought  from  the  Hills.  The 
sling  above  described  was  doubtless  used  by  the  Ghoorka  women 
at  Kalunga. 

22nd. — We  mounted  our  gunths  so  early  we  were  at  Cloud 

r2 


244  WANDERINGS   OP   A   PILGRIM. 

End  by  7  a.m.  to  breakfast.  Ben  Oge,  the  hill  adjoining,  is  the 
highest  point  at  Mussoori.     The  day  was   bright  and   clear. 

Captain  S asked  us  to  ride  to  the  summit ;  he  accompanied 

us  on  foot.  The  view  from  the  top  of  Ben  Oge  was  beautiful : 
the  Snowy  Ranges  were  so  clear  and  distinct,  you  could  see 
every  peak.  I  thought  of  Captain  Skinner's  journal  as  I  looked 
at  the  peaks  of  Jumnotri,  the  source  of  the  Jumna,  and 
traced  the  river  as  it  wound  below  through  the  khuds  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountains,  its  course  doubhng  hke  a  hare.  Beyond 
was  the  Peak  of  Gangotri,  from  which  the  Ganges  rises.  I 
longed  to  march  into  the  interior,  to  behold  the  grandeur  of  the 
scenery  of  the  Himalaya.  Ben  Oge  is  quite  treeless  at  the 
summit,  but  the  ground  was  covered  with  wild  lavender,  thyme, 
and  various  mountain  flowers  of  great  beauty,  while  numberless 
butterflies  flitted  over  them.  My  relative  found  the  breeze  very 
chilly,  but  the  sun  was  so  hot  it  made  my  head  spin ;  we 
returned  to  his  house  :  he  was  seized  with  cholera,  from  the 
heat  of  his  body  being  suddenly  checked  by  the  cold  air,  and 
the  sun  pouring  on  his  head  ;  he  was  very  ill,  and  in  great  pain 
for  two  hours.  We  returned  home,  determined  not  to  ascend 
another  hill  during  the  heat  of  the  day. 

26th. — My  httle  widow  and  I  were  out  riding  at  seven  in  the 
morning ;  on  our  return  we  were  surprised  to  find  a  very  severe 
earthquake  had  been  experienced  at  Landowr  and  Mussoori, 
which  had  frightened  all  the  people ;  there  were  three  distinct 
shocks.  We  on  our  gunths  did  not  feel  the  shocks ;  there  are 
but  few  hours  in  the  day  in  which  an  earthquake  could  catch  us 
off"  our  ponies. 

I  have  never  put  on  a  bonnet  since  I  came  to  the  Hills  ;  like 
the  steeds  in  the  "  Lay  of  the  Last  Minstrel,"  which  "  stood 
saddled  in  stable  day  and  night,"  so  am  I  saddled  in  my  hat 
and  riding-habit,  always  on  my  pony ;  my  visits  are  made  on 
horseback.  I  have  a  jampan,  (a  sort  of  chair,  with  poles,  carried 
*  by  Hill-men,)  but  this  is  a  disagreeable  kind  of  conveyance  ;  and 
I  like  the  independence  of  my  pony  much  better.  The  earthquake 
was  charming ;  we  seem  to  have  all  the  eccentricities  of  nature 
around  us.     A  Landowr  .^tna  or  Vesuvius  would  figure  well 


A    SPANIEL    SEIZED    BY    A    LEOPARD.  245 

in  my  journal,  could  we  be  lucky  enough  to  discover  a  burning 
mountain  in  these  Snowy  Regions. 

28th. — I  gave  a  pic-nic  party  by  the  side  of  a  mountain 
stream,  in  a  deep  khud  at  JerripanI :  the  barberries  were  quite 
ripe,  in  shape  much  thicker  than  the  English,  in  colour  black, 
very  good  in  taste.  The  wild  dog-rose  hung  its  clusters  of  white 
flowers  from  almost  every  tree  in  the  richest  profusion ; — it  is  a 
beautiftil  climber. 

June  1st. — ^The  weather  is  hot  during  the  middle  of  the  day, 
the  thermometer  70° ;  one  cannot  go  out  with  comfort,  unless 
the  day  be  cloudy  or  stormy ;  it  is  very  hot  for  the  Hills. 

5th. — A  very  hot  day ; — the  Hills  covered  with  a  fog-Uke 
smoke,  occasioned  by  the  burning  of  the  jangal  in  the  valley 

below  ;  hot  and  smoky  air  comes  up  in  volumes.     Mrs.  M 

was  riding  this  evening,  when  a  leopard  seized  her  spaniel,  which 
was  not  many  yards  in  front  of  her  pony ;  the  shouts  of  the 
party  alarmed  the  animal,  and  he  let  the  dog  drop ;  however, 
the  poor  spaniel  died  of  his  wounds.  Some  officers  laid  wait 
for  the  leopard,  and  shot  it ;  I  saw  it,  coming  up  the  Hill, 
fastened  on  a  bamboo,  to  be  stuffed  and  prepared  with  arsenical 
soap. 

7th. — Mr.  D invited  us   to  a  pic-nic   at  Bhadraj ;    we 

selected  a  spot  under  a  fine  oak  tree  on  the  estate  at  Cloud  End  ; 
numberless  amusements  were  provided  for  us  :  a  champagne 
tiffin  was  pleasant  under  the  old  oak  tree ;  and  a  dinner,  rich 
and  rare,  finished  the  amusements  of  the  day.  When  the  moon 
arose  we  mounted  our  gunths  ;  and,  as  the  road  lay  through 
the  dark  shade  of  trees,  and  on  the  edge  of  precipices,  we 
determined  to  be  careful,  and  agreed  to  muster  three  times  on 
our  journey  of  six  miles,  to  see  that  none  of  the  party  had  fallen 
into  the  khud.  Away  we  cantered  through  the  beautiful  moon- 
light, almost  racing  our  ponies.     At  the  last  muster,  Mr.  H 

was  thrown  by  his  mule  ;  but  as  he  was  scarcely  hurt,  it  was  only 
a  laughing  matter.  We  reached  home  at  half-past  eleven,  after 
a  beautiful  ride  and  a  pleasant  day. 

lOth. — One  of  the  officers  of  the  Buffs  met  a  bear  the  other 
day,  and  was  glad  to  get  off"  unhugged  ;  bears  as  well  as  leopards 


246  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

abound  in  the  Hills.  I  must  not  take  my  pet  dog  out  riding 
with  me  ;  at  this  time  of  the  year  wild  beasts  are  numerous,  and 
render  it  dangerous. 

We  have  a  great  number  of  visitors  every  day  in  the  Hills ; 
people  have  nothing  to  do  but  to  run  about  calling  and  amusing 
themselves.  A  third  earthquake  has  taken  place  ;  but,  as  usual, 
I  on  my  gunth  was  unconscious  of  the  quaking  of  the  earth. 
A  storm  of  thunder,  Hghtning,  and  hail  has  cooled  the  air,  and  it 
is  very  pleasant  weather.  The  Hills  look  so  beautiful  at  night, 
when  they  are  on  fire  ;  the  fire  never  spreads,  but  runs  up  to  the 
top  of  the  HiU  ;  they  fire  them  below  in  several  places  at  once,  to 
burn  the  old  long  grass,  and  make  way  for  the  new  to  sprout  up. 

llth. — A  letter  from  Allahabad  tells  me,  a  most  severe  storm 
took  place  there  on  the  third  of  this  month, — more  severe  than 
the  one  in  which  the  Seagull  was  wrecked ;  it  only  lasted  an 
hour.  It  blew  down  one  of  the  verandahs  of  our  house,  un- 
roofed the  cow-house,  the  meat-house,  the  wild-duck-house,  the 
sheep-house,  &c.  :  the  repairs  will  not  cost  us  less  than  seven 
hundred  rupees  (£70) . 

ISth. — Accompanied  Mr.  R to  see  the  Botanical  Garden, 

which  is  small,  but  interesting :  I  ate  cherries  from  Cashmere, 
saw  a  very  fine  Hill  lily  from  the  interior,  and  gathered  many 
beautiful  flowers.  Some  peaches,  from  the  Dhoon  valley,  very 
large  and  fine,  like  English  peaches,  were  sent  me  to-day. 

I8th. — Our  party  being  engaged  to  dine  at  Cloud  End  to-day, 
under  the  old  oak  tree,  we  got  up  at  6  a.m.,  when  we  found  the 
Hills  covered  with  thick  white  clouds  from  the  bottom  of  the 
khuds  to  their  summits  ;  the  clouds  were  so  thick,  and  we  were 
so  completely  in  the  midst  of  them,  you  could  not  see  beyond 
the  verandah ;  the  thunder  rolled,  and  the  sheeted  lightning 
flashed.  After  a  while  the  wind  blew  off"  the  clouds,  and  the 
Hills  re-appeared,  but  only  for  a  few  moments,  when  fresh 
clouds  rolled  up  from  the  valley,  and  every  thing  was  again 
hidden  in  the  white  foggy  cloud.  The  rain  fell  heavily,  straight 
down  from  the  heavens  :  I  trust  the  rains  have  set  in  this  day  ; 
without  them  the  famine,  and  the  sickness  which  is  raging  in 
the  plains  below,  will  continue. 


EXPEDITION    TO    THE    SUMMIT    OF    BHADRAJ.  247 

This  specimen  of  what  the  rains  will  prove  has  quite  horrified 
my  fair  friend,  and  she  is  wishing  herself  back  again  at  Meerut. 
I — who  am  fond  of  storm  and  tempest — have  enjoyed  the  day  ; 
1  like  these  hurly-burly  scenes ;  too  frequent  repetition  might 
perhaps  render  them  annoying,  and  the  dampness  might  be  pro- 
ductive of  rheumatism.     Thermometer  1  p.m.  69°. 

\9th. — At  half-past  7  a.m.  our  party  were  at  Cloud  End,  seated 
on  the  rocks  under  the  old  oak,  enjoying  breakfast  after  the  ride. 
The  delicious  mounteiin  air  made  me  feel  so  well,  I  proposed  to 

Captain  A to  visit  the  summit  of  Bhadraj,  seven  miles  off. 

The  rest  of  the  party  thought  the  exertion  too  great,  and  would 
not  join  us.  On  quitting  the  made  road  we  entered  a  track  on 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  overhanging  a  deep  precipice.  We 
lost  our  way,  and  found  we  could  neither  turn  our  mules  round, 

nor  proceed  any  further.     We  dismounted ;    Captain  A , 

with  some  difficulty,  turned  my  mule  ;  he  then  attempted  to  do 
the  same  to  his  own, — the  animal  became  skittish,  and,  shpping 
from  his  hand,  went  down  the  side  of  the  hill ;  how  he  kept  his 
feet  was  wonderful.  The  mule  looked  quietly  up  at  us  from 
below ;  to  have  attempted  to  catch  him  would  have  sent  him 
down  the  rock  to  certain  death,  we  therefore  walked  off,  leaving 
this  most  beautiful  mule,  for  which  £20  had  just  been  paid,  to 
his  fate.  As  we  expected,  when  he  found  the  other  mule  had 
gone  off,  he  ascended  the  rock  with  the  utmost  caution,  and 
rejoined  his  companion ;  I  was  glad  to  see  his  bridle  in  his 
master's  hand  again. 

After  much  toil  we  arrived  at  the  flag-staff  on  the  top  of  the 
hill ;  thence  the  view  was  such  as  is  seldom  seen  in  such  perfec- 
tion, even  in  these  mountains : — ^looking  down  towards  the  plain 
of  the  Deyra  Dhoon,  instead  of  the  beautiful  valley  in  all  its 
emerald  green,  intersected  by  rivers  pouring  down  from  the 
HiUs, — instead  of  this,  white  clouds  entirely  filled  the  plain, 
giving  it  the  appearance  of  being  filled  with  hills  covered  with 
snow  ;  beyond  were  the  dark  hills  of  the  Lower  Range ;  the  next 
minute  the  clouds  changed  their  appearance,  and  rushed  up  the 
Hills  on  a  strong  wind,  covering  several  mountains  at  a  time 
in  a  most  extraordinary  manner  with  volumes  of  white  cloud  ; 


248  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

then,  driving  on,  left  them  bright  in  the  sunshine.  The  river 
Jumna,  in  the  khud  or  valley,  at  times  visible,  at  times  con- 
cealed by  clouds,  wound  its  tortuous  course  below.  I  have  seen 
the  Hills  under  almost  all  forms,  but  the  grandeur  of  the  view 
on  this  stormy  day  exceeded  any  thing  I  had  before  beheld,  and 
well  repaid  the  fatigue.  At  times  it  rained  a  little,  at  times  there 
was  a  scorching  sunshine,  then  came  gusts  of  wind  and  clouds, 
wrapping  every  object  around  us  in  dense  white  vapour.  A  Uttle 
further  on  we  found  a  Hindu  idol,  rudely  cut  in  stone  ;  this  idol 
is  now  neglected,  but  was  formerly  much  worshipped.  Near  it 
is  a  large  stone,  on  which  is  chiselled,  "  Lady  Hood,  1814  :"  on 
speaking  of  this  to  the  poUtical  agent,  he  laughed  and  said, 
•'  You  were  more  enterprising  than  Lady  Hood  ;  you  visited  the 
spot, — she  only  sent  a  man  to  chisel  out  her  name,  and  that  of 

Colonel  B on  the  top  of  Bhadraj ;    she  never  visited  the 

place  in  person."  We  returned  to  dinner  at  Cloud  End:  how 
glad  we  were  of  a  glass  of  champagne  after  our  fatigues  !  and 
how  glad  we  were  we  had  brought  the  beautiful  mule  back  in 
safety !  After  tea,  remounting  our  steeds,  we  returned  to  Lan- 
dowr :  I  rode  in  the  course  of  that  day  twenty-six  mDes,  up  and 
down  hill, — a  pretty  good  distance  for  a  lady ; — but  who  can  feel 
fatigue  in  the  bracing,  most  enjoyable  air  of  these  delightful 
mountains  ? 

2lst. — At  twenty-two  minutes  after  4  p.m.,  an  earthquake 
shook  the  ground  and  the  house ;  I  was  sitting  at  table  and  felt 
the  shocks,  which  were  very  powerful.  Rain,  rain,  storms, 
storms,  thunder  and  Hghtning  daily :  truly,  saith  the  proverb, 
"  There  are  storms  in  high  places." 

24th. — A  delightful  day !  How  fine,  how  beautiful  are  the 
Snowy  Ranges !  In  consequence  of  the  heavy  rain  the  roads 
have  become  very  rotten  and  dangerous  ;  in  many  parts,  half 
the  road  has  fallen  into  the  khud ;  and  where  the  path  is  often 
not  three  feet  in  width,  it  leaves  but  a  small  space  for  a  man  on 

his  gunth.     Mr.  T ,  of  the  artillery,   met   with  a  serious 

accident  this  morning ;  the  road  was  much  broken,  and  as  he 
attempted  to  ride  over  it,  it  gave  way ;  he  and  his  pony  went 
down  the  precipice.     Mr.  T was  stopped  in  his  descent, 


INTRODUCTION    OF   SLATED    ROOFS    IN    THE    HILLS.  249 

after  he  had  gone  one  hundi'ed  feet,  by  a  tree,  was  brought  up, 
and  carried  to  a  surgeon.  He  was  much  hurt  in  the  head,  but 
is  expected  to  recover  in  two  or  three  weeks ;  no  bones  were 
broken :  the  pony  went  down  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and 
was  found  aUve ! 

One  of  my  men  was  brought  in  for  medical  aid,  he  had 
been  employed  in  charge  of  a  gang  of  Hill-men,  cutting  slates 
for  the  roof  of  the  new  house,  in  a  deep  khud,  and  had 
caught  a  fever.  The  slates  found  in  the  Hills  are  very  good, 
but  more  brittle  than  those  of  Europe.  The  houses  formerly 
were  all  thatched  at  Landowr ;  a  thatched  roof  is  dangerous  on 
account  of  the  lightning  which  so  often  strikes  and  sets  fire 

to   it.     Captain   S introduced   slated    roofs,   and   several 

people  have  followed  the  good  example  he  has  set  them. 


CHAPTER  LV. 


LIFE  IN  THE  HILLS. 

Kharita  of  her  Highness  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior — A  Mountain  Storm — An 
Adventure — Asses  carried  off  by  Leopards — Bear's  Grease — Deodar  Oil — 
Apricot  Oil — Hill  Currants — Figs  and  Tar — The  Cholera — Sacrifice  of  a 
Kid  to  the  Mountain  Spirit— Absurdity  of  the  Fear  of  a  Russian  Invasion — 
Plague  of  Fleas — The  Charmed  Stone — Iron-stone — Khobarah,  the  Hill  Dog 
— Sheep-stealing — Booteah  Chharra — Flexible  Stone — A  Fearful  Storm — A 
doomed  Bangla — Leaf  Butterflies— Bursting  of  the  Mahratta  Bandh  at  Prag 
— Similarity  of  the  Singular  Marriages  in  the  Hills  with  those  of  the  Ancient 
Britons — Honesty  of  the  Paharls,  i.  e.  Mountaineers. 

THE   KHARITA. 

1838,  June  29th. — Her  Highness  the  Baiza  Ba'i  did  me  the 
honour  to  send  me  a  kharttd,  that  is,  a  letter  enclosed  in  a  long 
bag  of  kimkhwdb,  crimson  silk,  brocaded  with  flowers  in  gold, 
contained  in  another  of  fine  muslin  :  the  mouth  of  the  bag  was 
tied  with  a  gold  and  tasselled  cord,  to  which  was  appended  the 
great  seal  of  her  Highness, — a  flat  circular  mass  of  sealing-wax, 
on  which  her  seal  was  impressed.  Two  smaller  bags  were  sent 
with  it,  as  represented  in  the  plate,  each  containing  a  present  of 
bon-bons.  The  kharita,  as  well  as  one  of  the  small  bags,  is 
represented  divested  of  its  outer  ease  of  transparent  muslin ;  the 
other  little  bag  has  on  its  white  cover,  and  the  direction  is 
placed  within  the  transparent  muslin.  The  autograph  of  the 
Balza  Ba'I  is  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  page  ;  the  letter  was 
written  in  Urdu  (the  court  language),  in  the  Persian  character, 
by  one  of  her  Highness's  miinshls,  and  signed  by  the  Ba'I 
herself:  the  paper  is  adorned  with  gold  devices.  The  letter 
commenced  in  the  usual  complimentary  style ;  after  which  her 


A    MOUNTAIN    STORM AN    ADVENTURE.  251 

Highness  writes,  that — "  The  light  of  my  eyes — the  Gaja  Raja 
— has  been  very  ill ;  she  has  recovered,  and  her  husband,  Appa 
Sahib  Kanulka,  having  heard  of  her  iUness,  has  come  from 
GwaUor  to  see  her."  Kharitiis  of  this  sort  pass  between  the 
mighty  men  of  the  East,  and  between  them  and  the  public 
functionaries  of  Government. 

July  3rd. — I  rode  over  to  Cloud  End,  inspected  the  new 
house,  and  trained  young  convolvulus  plants  over  the  bamboo 
hedge  around  the  garden  :  the  rain  descended  in  torrents ;  it  was 
very  cold  and  uncomfortable.  At  7  p.m.,  being  anxious  to  get 
home  before  dark,  although  it  was  still  raining,  I  ordered  my 
giinth ;  my  relative  wrapped  me  up  in  his  militeu-y  cloak,  and 
put  a  large  Indian-rubber  cape  above  it ;  in  this  attire  I  hoped 
to  keep  myself  dry  during  my  ride  home  of  seven  miles.  I 
had  not  proceeded  a  mile  from  the  estate  when  the  storm  came 
on  in  the  fearful  style  of  mountain  tempests ;  the  thunder  burst 
roaring  over  my  head,  the  lightning  spread  around  in  sheets  of 
flame,  and  every  now  and  then  the  flashes  of  forked  lightning 
rendered  me  so  bUnd  I  could  not  see  the  path  for  some  minutes. 
I  had  two  servants  with  me  ;  they  walked  before  the  gunth,  but 
were  unable  very  often  to  trace  the  road,  it  was  so  dark  amidst 
the  trees,  and  the  whole  time  the  rain  fell  in  torrents.  I  saw  a 
dark  space  in  front  of  the  horse,  and  asked,  "  What  is  that?" 
"  Oh,  nothing,"  said  the  sa'Is,  "  ride  on."  But  I  stopped,  and 
sent  him  forward.  At  this  spot  three  or  four  trees  had  been 
thrown  across  a  precipice ;  over  these  earth  had  been  laid  to 
some  depth  to  form  a  road  ;  the  earth  had  been  entirely  washed 
away  by  the  force  of  a  stream  of  water,  produced  from  the 
heavy  rain,  and  had  fallen  into  the  precipice  : — the  darkness  was 
the  hollow  produced  by  the  chasm  !  I  dismounted ;  the  trees 
were  still  below,  across  the  hollow ;  with  difficulty  I  clambered 
down,  got  over  the  trunks,  and  up  the  other  side  ;  it  was  almost 
perfectly  dark.  I  called  the  gunth ;  the  cunning  little  fellow 
looked  at  the  hollow,  stamped  his  fore-feet  on  the  ground  as  if 
he  disliked  it,  sprang  up  the  bank  on  the  other  side,  and  was  in 
safety  by  me.  I  remounted  him  and  proceeded, — an  act  that 
required  a  good  deal  of  quiet  courage. 


252  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

"  The  darkness  of  the  night  is  a  coUyrium  to  the  eyes  of  the 
mole'."  It  certainly  was  not  to  mine  :  after  I  had  been  out  two 
hours  I  found  that  I  had  advanced  four  miles  on  a  path  that 
was  covered  by  high  trees  on  every  side,  rendering  it  the  more 
dangerous ;  the  lightning  was  very  vivid,  and  I  saw  a  flash 
strike  the  roof  of  a  house ;  suddenly  a  faintness  came  over  me, 
with  difficulty  I  kept  in  my  saddle,  and  feeling  ill,  I  desired  the 
servant  to  lead  the  gunth  to  the  first  gentleman's  house  he  came 
near.  As  soon  as  we  arrived  at  a  bungalow  we  went  up  to  the 
verandah,  when  an  officer,  hearing  a  lady  was  exposed  to  such  a 
storm,  and  wished  for  shelter,  came  out  and  took  me  into  the 
house :  I  was  so  much  exhausted,  the  tears  ran  down  my 
face,  and  I  almost  fainted  away.  They  gave  me  wine,  and  took 
off  the  Indian-rubber  cloak,  which,  most  likely,  was  the  cause 
of  the  extreme  oppression  that  overcame  me. 

The  lady  and  gentleman  in  whose  house  I  had  taken  refuge 
were  very  kind ;  dry  clothes  soon  replaced  my  wet  habit,  and 
they  gave  me  a  bed  ;  however,  I  was  far  too  much  excited  to  go 
to  sleep,  and  was  disturbed  by  queer  sounds  in  an  outhouse,  not 
far  from  my  sleeping  room.  I  got  up,  opened  my  door,  wished 
to  call  my  host,  but  not  knowing  his  name,  lay  down  again  and 
listened.  In  the  morning  the  mystery  was  explained :  a  lady 
staying  at  the  house  had  two  she-asses  for  her  baby,  which  were 
in  an  outhouse  near  my  room  ;  the  night  before  my  arrival  a 
leopard  had  broken  into  the  outhouse  in  which  the  donkeys 
were  fastened,  and  had  killed  them  both  ;  they  were  found  dead 
with  their  halters  on.  The  night  I  was  there  the  leopard  came 
again,  tore  one  of  the  carcases  from  the  halter,  and  carried  it 
down  the  khud  ; — this  was  the  strange  noise  that  prevented  my 
sleeping.  Quite  a  night  of  adventures.  The  carcases  had  been 
left  on  purpose,  and  some  of  the  officers  of  the  Buffs  were  to 
have  laid  wait  for  the  leopard  that  night,  but  the  storm  prevented 
their  quitting  their  houses. 

Captain  S came  to  Landowr  the  next  day :  he  was  sur- 
prised at  my  having  passed  the  broken  road  in  the  darkness  of 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  121. 


SACRIFICE    OF    A    KID    TO    THE    MOUNTAIN    SPIRIT.  253 

the  storm ;  even  by  daylight,  he  passed  over  it  with  difficulty 
— perhaps  the  darkness  aided  me,  as  it  prevented  my  being 
giddy. 

llth. — Rode  to  the  Botanical  Gardens;  observed  several 
young  tea  plants,  which  were  flourishing.  The  bright  yellow 
broom  was  in  full  flower  ;  it  put  me  in  mind  of  the  country  by 
the  sea-side  at  Christchurch,  Hants,  where  the  broom  is  in 
such  luxuriance.  We  feasted  on  Cashmere  apricots,  which, 
though  not  to  be  compared  to  those  of  Europe,  were  agreeable 
to  the  taste. 

I2th. — Storms,  storms, — rain,  rain, — day  by  day, — night  by 
night :  thermometer  at  noon,  66°. 

I7th. — A  bear  having  been  killed,  I  procured  several  bottles 
of  bear's  grease.  Apricot  oil  was  recommended  also  for  the 
hair. 

I  bought  some  Deodar  oil,  made  from  the  white  cedar ;  the 
smell  is  vile ;  it  is  good  for  rheumatic  pains ;  if  rubbed  in  too 
much  it  will  produce  a  blister. 

Baskets  full  of  currants  were  brought  for  sale  ;  they  were  only 
fit  for  tarts.  Fresh  figs,  pretty  good,  were  sent  me,  also  some 
tolerable  pears  of  good  size.  Tar,  called  cheer-ke-tel,  is 
excellent  in  the  Hills. 

25th. — ^Was  persuaded  to  go  to  a  ball  given  by  the  bachelors 
of  Landowr  and  Mussoorl,  an  event  in  my  quiet  Ufe.  Cholera 
has  appeared  in  the  bazar :  the  Hill-men  are  so  much  alarmed 
that  they  run  away  from  service.  My  paharis  came  to  request 
I  would  let  them  all  depart  and  pay  them  their  wages  :  this  I 
refused  to  do  :  they  pleaded  their  fear  of  the  cholera.  At 
length  they  agreed  to  remain,  if  I  would  give  them  a  kid  to 
sacrifice  to  the  angry  goddess  who  resides  in  the  mountain, 
and  whom  they  believe  has  brought  the  illness  amongst  them 
— they  are  extremely  superstitious.  What  can  you  expect 
from  uneducated  men  ?  "If  grass  does  not  grow  upon  stones, 
what  fault  is  it  in  the  rain'?" — i.  e.  it  is  unreasonable  to 
expect  learning  from  him  who  has  not  the  means  or  capa- 
city to  acquire  it. 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  125. 


254  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

August  \7th.- — As  to  our  military  movements,  something  will 
be  done,  and  danger  is  to  be  anticipated ;  but  Russia  will  not 
be  so  foolish  as  to  enter  heartily  into  the  quarrels  of  Persia. 
As  for  the  Persians, — bah  !  I  spit  upon  them,  as  Haji  Baba  tells 
us  they  say  of  us.  I  was  amused  by  a  letter  in  the  paper  to- 
day, which,  speaking  of  the  Russian  Invasion,  says,  "  We  are 
being  hemmed  in  all  round  like  a  pocket-handkerchief,  and  like 
it  coming  to  blows."  Are  they  afraid  the  bloodthirsty  and 
ambitious  Nicholas  should  push  us  from  our  stools  and  rob  us 
of  our  salt  ?  Eating  the  Company's  salt  is  the  native  mode  of 
expression  for  their  wages  of  labour  done  under  it. 

Preparations  for  war  are  going  on.  Fifteen  thousand  men 
from  Bengal,  and  ten  thousand  from  Bombay  are  to  march  to 
Cabul,  and  defend  that  part  of  India  in  case  of  an  attack  from 
Russia  and  Persia.  Burmah  and  Nepaul  are  looking  hostile ; 
we  shall  have  war  in  abundance  shortly.  The  Mahrattas  talk 
about  the  "  Russes ;"  indeed  the  whole  bazar  at  Allahabad  is 
full  of  it ;  they  would  have  even  a  worse  time  with  these  Cupi- 
dons  du  Nord,  as  the  French  called  the  Cossacks,  than  even 
with  us,  resumption  regulations  included. 

20th. — ^For  the  last  three  weeks  we  have  had  rain  night  and 
day ;  sometimes  it  has  cleared  in  the  evening  for  two  hours ; 
any  thing  more  unpleasant  you  cannot  well  imagine ;  certainly 
the  rains  are  very  disagreeable  in  the  Hills. — Another  plague. — 
The  houses  swarm  with  fleas.  At  first  they  did  not  attack  me  ; 
for  the  last  few  nights  I  have  hardly  closed  my  eyes  on  account 
of  their  sharp  fierce  bites ;  they  will  worry  me  into  a  fever. 
To  counterbalance  this  plague  we  have  no  musquitoes  ;  and  the 
climate  is  too  cold  to  render  a  pankha  necessary.  How  often 
have  I  remembered  a  poetical  epistle  of  Mr.  W.  S.  Rose's, 
beginning, 

"  These  cursed  fleas,  they  bite  and  skip  so, 
In  this  Island  of  Calypso ! " 

The  Hill-men  say  there  is  a  certain  stone  which  possesses  a 
charm  and  keeps  away  fleas;  this  stone  they  put  into  their 
beds,  and  vow  it  keeps  off  the  biters.     My  ayha  tells  me  she 


i 


BOOTEAH    CHHARRA.  255 

borrowed  the  charm,  and  put  it  into  her  bed,  the  fleas  were 
nevertheless  as  ravenous  as  ever;  she  says  the  stone  has  the 
smell  of  a  peach. 

"  What  are  you  doing  ?  "  said  I  to  my  darzT,  who  was  one 
day  groping  about  the  floor  with  something  in  his  hand,  "  Try- 
ing to  find  my  needle  with  this  iron-stone ;  there  is  plenty  of  it 
in  the  Hills."  Shortly  afterwards  the  needle,  attracted  by  the 
magnetic  qualities  of  the  iron-stone,  stuck  to  it ;  and  the  darzi 
brought  it  to  me  in  triumph.  Sang-i-mikndfis  is  the  native 
name  for  loadstone. 

2\st. — ^Two  of  my  fat  sheep  have  been  stolen:  an  oflicer  in 
the  engineers  has  given  me  a  fine  Hill  dog,  by  name  Khobarah ; 
he  must  be  chained  in  the  sheep -house. 

22nd. — Another  fat  sheep  has  disappeared  :  according  to  the 
shepherd,  carried  off"  by  an  hyena, — according  to  my  belief, 
sold  to  the  butcher. 

23rd. — ^We  are  blessed  with  a  gleam  of  sunshine,  and  the 
man  is  off"  with  his  net  to  catch  butterflies ;  this  fine  day  will 
tempt  them  forth. 

A  Hill-man  brought  in  a  basket  of  fresh  kajgee,  walnuts ; 
they  were  a  novelty  ;  we  cracked  them,  Hill  fashion,  between  the 
door  and  the  sill,  and  found  them  excellent,  sweet,  and  fresh. 

The  paharis  brought  down  curious-looking  white  stones, 
which  they  called  booteah  chharrd,  and  used  as  shot.  Accord- 
ing to  their  account  these  stones  are  found  in  a  waterfall,  and 
brought  from  Almorah.  On  first  inspection  they  have  the 
appearance  of  being  a  mineral  crystalUzation,  but  on  more 
minute  examination,  it  will  be  found  that  the  number  of  faces 
or  flattened  sides  is  irregular,  some  having  eight,  others  nine, 
ten,  or  eleven  faces.  On  splitting  one  open  as  shown  in  the 
plate  entitled  "Jugunnath,"  Fig.  7,  which  represents  the  two 
halves,  a  beautiful  little  round  kernel  presents  itself,  enclosed  in 
the  outer  case.  It  is  very  probable,  therefore,  that  they  are  the 
ripe  seeds  or  berries  of  some  tree  or  plant  in  the  vicinity,  which, 
falling  into,  or  being  washed  by  the  rains  into  some  water  highly 
impregnated  with  carbonate  of  lime,  become  petrified,  and 
entirely  changed  into  this  substance,  which  frequently  happens 


256  WANDERINGS   OF    A    FILGRnf. 

under  the  supposed  circumstances.  The  little  flattened  faces 
may  thus  be  accounted  for,  by  the  pressure  of  the  grains  in 
their  conglomerated  state  against  one  another,  at  the  time  the 
berries  are  either  in  a  soft  or  ripe  state  ;  at  any  rate,  they  are  now 
simple  carbonate  of  lime,  completely  dissolving  in  diluted  muri- 
atic acid,  with  evolution  of  carbonic  acid,  and  without  sediment. 

In  the  plate  above  mentioned  (Fig.  6)  the  grains  are  repre- 
sented en  masse,  about  half  their  proper  size.  Fig.  8  represents 
them  exactly  the  size  of  the  original ;  one  is  split  open,  showing 
the  centre  of  the  rays.  Fig.  7  is  a  grain  split  open,  showing  the 
beautiful  little  white  polished  berry, — if  berry  it  be, 

I  have  numerous  specimens  of  leaves  and  branches  of  trees 
from  Almorah,  petrified  in  the  waterfalls,  covered  with  a  thick 
white  or  brownish  crust,  through  which  the  fibres  of  the  leaves 
can  be  distinctly  traced. 

Amongst  other  curiosities  in  the  Hills,  I  must  not  omit  the 

flexible  stone  ;  Major  S showed  me  a  large  specimen,  which 

was  decidedly  flexible.  Since  I  have  applied  myself  to  lithography, 
it  appears  to  me  that  the  stone  we  cut  out  of  his  mountain  at 
Cloud  End,  Landowr,  with  which  his  house  was  built,  had 
greatly  the  appearance  of  the  German  lithographic  stone ;  I 
well  remember  thinking  it  rotten  when  first  cut  out,  and  finding 
it  hardened  completely  on  exposure  to  the  air  in  ten  days  or  a 
fortnight :  I  know  not  if  this  peculiarity  belong  to  the  litho- 
graphic stone.  The  latter  dissolves  completely  in  muriatic  acid, 
and  water,  leaving  no  sediment. 

3\st. — A  most  fearful  storm  during  the  night, — one  that  was 
sufficient  to  make  me  quit  my  bed,  to  look  after  my  little  widow 
and  the  babas,  i.e.,  children.  The  paharls  informed  me  a 
few  days  ago  that  the  banglii  or  thatched  house  in  which  I  am 
living  has  been  three  times  struck  by  lightning,  and  twice  burned 
to  the  ground ! — an  agreeable  reminiscence  during  so  violent 
a  storm.  As  the  lightning,  if  it  strike  a  house,  often  runs 
'round  the  walls  of  a  room,  from  the  iron  of  one  wall  shade 
to  that  of  another,  and  then  pursuing  its  course  down  to  the 
grate,  tears  out  the  bars,  and  descends  into  the  earth,  we  took 
the  precaution  of  sitting  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  avoiding  the 


LEAF    BUTTERFLIES.  257 

sides.     My  fair  friend  laughed,  in  spite  of  her  alarm,  when  I 
repeated  the  old  verses  : — 

"  Ellen,  from  lightning  to  secure  her  life, 
Draws  from  her  pocket  the  attractive  knife  ; 
But  all  in  vain,  my  fair,  this  cautious  action. 
For  you  can  never  be  without  attraction." 

Sept.  1st. — A  most  delightful  day, — sunshine,  absolute  sun- 
shine,— the  Hills  so  gay  and  beauteous  after  the  deluge  of  so 
many  weeks  :  the  ponies  came  to  the  door,  and  we  enjoyed  the 
day  to  its  fullest  extent.  Some  leaf  butterflies  were  caught  and 
brought  to  me  ;  they  are  very  large  and  curious, — the  back  of 
the  wing  is  like  two  autumnal  leaves  laid  upon  one  another.  It 
is  said  that  every  month  the  appearance  of  the  leaf  butterfly 
changes,  varying  with  the  leaves.  Those  that  were  caught  for 
me  were  like  autumnal  leaves,  and  were  of  two  kinds.  I  made 
a  large  collection  of  butterflies,  both  at  Allahabad  and  in  the 
Hills ;  in  the  latter  place  many  rare  and  valuable  sorts  are 
found.  The  Map  butterfly,  so  called  from  the  map-like  tracery 
on  its  wings,  is  difficult  to  catch,  it  flies  so  high ;  it  is  very 
beautiful.  The  large  black  butterfly,  that  has  four  brilliant 
purple  eyes  on  its  wings,  is  perhaps  as  handsome  as  any ;  but  it 
has  a  rival  in  the  emerald  green  long-tailed  one,  whose  under 
wings  are  dashed  with  purple,  and  edged  with  rose-coloured 
spots.  There  is  also  a  long-tailed  black  butterfly,  the  upper 
wings  of  which  exhibit  stripes  of  black  and  white,  while  the  under 
ones  have  seven  rose-coloured  spots  and  four  white  marks  in  the 
centre.  I  am  told  the  most  valuable  are  the  small  purple  ones 
with  long  tails.  It  were  too  long  a  task  to  enumerate  the  various 
beautiful  specimens  procured  for  me  of  these  "  insect  queens  of 
eastern  spring."  The  privates  of  the  Lancers  and  Buff's  added 
to  my  collection,  and  were  very  anxious  to  give  their  butterflies 
in  return  for  the  beer  brewed  in  the  Hills ;  which,  though  it 
cannot  be  compared  to  Bass's  or  AUsopp's  Pale  Ale,  is  very  fair, 
when  you  consider  it  is  country  made. 

5th. — A  letter  informed  me  of  the  bursting  of  the  Mahratta 
Biindh  at  Allahabad  :  the  Ganges  poured  through  the  gap,  inun- 

VOL.  II.  s 


258  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

dating  the  whole  country,  until  it  reached  the  Jumna  just  above 
the  Fort,  leaving  the  latter  completely  insulated.  Our  house, 
being  close  to  the  bank  of  the  Jumna,  escaped,  but  was  on  every 
side  surrounded  by  water.  M.  mon  mari  had  two  large  boats 
anchored  near,  to  receive  himself,  his  horses,  his  flocks,  and  his 
herds,  should  the  river  rise  any  higher.  The  Biindh  burst  on  the 
23rd  of  August ;  it  swept  away  the  villages  of  Kyd  and  Moot! 
Gunge,  carrying  away  all  the  thatched  huts,  the  brick  houses 
alone  escaping.  The  Jumna  rose  to  within  seven  feet  of  the  top 
of  the  very  high  bank  on  which  the  chabutara  (terrace)  in  our 
garden  is  placed.  The  damage  done  to  the  crops  and  villages  is 
estimated  at  four  lakh  ;  besides  this,  the  force  of  the  water  rush- 
ing upon  the  bjistion  of  the  Fort  has  caused  it  to  fall  in  ;  it  will 
cost  forty  or  fifty  thousand  rupees  to  repair  the  bastion. 

6th. — 111 :  my  ayha  is  so  kind  and  so  careful  of  me :  what  a 
good  servant  I  find  her  !  Apropos — grain  is  at  present  very  dear 
at  Landowr ;  gram,  twelve  seer  per  rupee. 

"  One  wife  is  enough  for  a  whole  family '."  "  Where  do  you 
live?"  said  I  to  one  of  my  servants,  a  Pahari  (mountaineer), 
who  had  just  deposited  his  load  of  rhododendron  wood,  or, 
as  he  calls  it,  flower  wood,  in  the  verandah.  "Three  days' 
journey  from  this,  in  the  pahar  (mountain,)"  said  the  man. 
"  Are  you  married  ?"  said  I.  The  man  looked  annoyed  ;  "  Who 
will  meirry  me  ?  How  can  I  have  a  wife  ?  there  are  but  three  of 
us."  Having  heard  of  the  singular  customs  of  the  Pahar  is 
with  regard  to  marriage,  I  pursued  my  interrogation.  "Why 
cannot  you  marry?"  "We  are  only  three  brothers  ;  if  there 
were  seven  of  us  we  might  marry,  but  only  three,  who  will 
marry  us  ?"  The  greater  the  number  of  the  family  the  more 
honourable  is  the  connexion,  the  more  respected  is  the  lady. 
"  But  who  claims  the  children?"  "The  first  child  belongs  to 
the  eldest  brother,  the  second  to  the  second  brother,  and  so  on, 
,.  until  the  eighth  chUd  is  claimed  by  the  eldest  brother,  if  there 
be  a  family  of  seven." 

I  have  heeird  that  the   Hill  women  destroy  their  female 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  126. 


HONESTY    OF    THE    PAHARIS.  259 

ofFspring,  thinking  the  lot  of  woman  too  hard  to  endure.  The 
price  of  a  wife  is  high,  from  the  scarcity  of  women,  and  may 
accomit  for  the  disgusting  marriages  of  the  Paharls. 

Mr.  Vigne,  in  his  travels  in  Cashmir,  remarks, — "  My  classical 
companion  pointed  out  to  me  the  following  passage  of  Caesar's 
Commentaries,  showing  that  a  similar  custom  existed  amongst 
the  Ancient  Britons  : — '  Uxores  habent  deni  duodenique  inter 
se  communes,  et  maxime  fratres  cum  fratribus,  et  parentes  cum 
liberis.  Sed  si  qui  sunt  ex  his  nati,  eorum  habentur  liberi,  a 
quibus  primum  virgines  quseque  ductae  sunt.'  " — Ccesar,  de 
Bella  Gallico,  hb.  v.  cap.  14. 

I  am  told  that  honesty  was  the  distinguishing  characteristic  in 
former  times  of  the  Paharis,  but  intercourse  with  civiUzed 
Europeans  has  greatly  demoralized  the  mountaineers. 


s2 


CHAPTER   LVT. 


ELEVATION  OF  THE  HIMALAYA. 

"  Not  vainly  did  the  early  Persian  make 

His  altar  the  high  places,  and  the  peak 
Of  earth-o'ergazing  mountains,  and  thus  take 

A  fit  and  unwall'd  temple,  there  to  seek 
The  Spirit,  in  whose  honour  shrines  are  weak, 

Uprear'd  of  human  hands.     Come,  and  compare 
Columns  and  idol-dwellings,  Goth  or  Greek, 

With  nature's  realms  of  worship,  earth  and  air. 

Nor  fix  on  fond  abodes  to  circumscribe  thy  prayer ! " 

The  Great  Peak  of  Bhadrinath — No  Glaciers  in  the  Snowy  Ranges — Ceremonies 
performed  on  visiting  Holy  Places — Kedamath — Moira  Peak — Gangoutrl — 
The  Jaunti  Peak — Jumnotri — The  Himalaya  Range  formed  by  Mahadeo — 
Palia  Gadh — The  Dewtas — Bandarponch — Hiinooman — The  Cone — Height 
of  the  Himalayas. 

1838,  Sept. — You  wish  me  to  send  home  some  sketches  from 
the  Hills  ;  I  will  strive  to  comply  with  the  request,  and  in  the 
mean  time  will  forward  you  a  map,  copied  from  a  portion  of  a 
survey :  it  will  show  you  the  elevation  of  the  Himalaya,  and 
give  you  a  definite  idea  of  the  shape  of  the  mountains. 

THE  GREAT  PEAK  OF  BHADRINATH. 

The  highest  peak,  that  of  Bhadrinath,  23,441  feet  above  the 
Sea,  is  a  conspicuous  object  from  the  summit  of  Landowr. 
Some  of  the  mountains  of  the  Snowy  Ranges  display  high, 
rocky,  sharp  peaks,  covered  with  snow — smooth,  hard,  unbroken, 
and   glittering   white;    others   are   cut   into   fantastic   shapes. 


THE  GREAT  PEAK  OF  BHADRINATH.  261 

There  are  no  glaciers,  because,  in  all  probability,  an  uniform 
cold — ^below  the  freezing  point — prevails  in  so  elevated  a  region. 
Bhadrinath  is  a  noted  place  of  pilgrimage,  and  during  my  stay 
in  the  Hills  some  of  my  Hindu  servants  requested  leave  of 
absence  to  visit  it. 

"  The  Hindus  have  a  way  to  heaven  without  dying :  if  the 
person  who  wishes  to  go  this  way  to  heaven,  through  repeating 
certain  incantations  survive  the  cold,  he  at  last  arrives  at  Hima- 
luyii,  the  residence  of  Shivii.  Such  a  person  is  said  '  to  go  the 
Great  Journey:'  Yoodhist'hiru,  according  to  the  puranus,  went 
this  way  to  heaven ;  but  his  companions  perished  by  the  cold  on 
the  mountain  :  this  forms  another  method  in  which  the  Hindus 
may  meritoriously  put  a  period  to  their  existence ;  it  is  also  one 
of  the  Hindu  atonements  for  great  offences."  The  ceremonies 
performed  on  visiting  holy  places  are  as  follows  : — "  When  a 
person  resolves  to  visit  any  one  of  these  places,  he  fixes  upon  an 
auspicious  day,  and,  two  days  preceding  the  commencement  of 
his  journey,  has  his  head  shaved  ;  the  next  he  fasts  ;  the  follow- 
ing day  he  performs  the  shraddhii  (funeral  obsequies)  of  the 
three  preceding  generations  of  his  family  on  both  sides,  and 
then  leaves  his  house.  If  a  person  act  according  to  the  shastrii 
he  observes  the  following  rules : — First,  till  he  returns  to  his 
own  house,  he  eats  rice  which  has  not  been  wet  in  cleansing, 
and  that  only  once  a  day ;  he  abstains  from  anointing  his  body 
with  oil,  and  from  eating  fish.  If  he  ride  in  a  palanquin  or  in  a 
boat  he  loses  half  the  benefits  of  his  pilgrimage ;  if  he  walk  on 
foot  he  obtains  the  full  fruit.  The  last  day  of  his  journey  he 
fasts.  On  his  arrival  at  the  sacred  spot,  he  has  his  whole  body 
shaved,  after  which  he  bathes,  and  performs  shraddhii  :  if  the 
pilgrim  be  a  woman,  she  has  only  the  breadth  of  two  fingers  of 
her  hair  behind  cut  off;  if  a  widow,  her  whole  head  is  shaved. 
It  is  necessary  that  the  pilgrim  stay  seven  days  at  least  at  the . 
holy  place ;  he  may  continue  as  much  longer  as  he  pleases. 
Every  day  during  his  stay  he  bathes,  pays  his  devotions  to  the 
images,  sits  before  them,  and  repeats  their  names,  and  worships 
them,  presenting  such  offerings  as  he  can  afford.  In  bathing, 
he  makes  kooshii  grass  images  of  his  relations,  and  bathes  them. 


262  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

The  benefits  arising  to  relations  will  be  as  one  to  eight,  compared 
with  that  of  the  person  bathing  at  the  holy  place.  When  he  is 
about  to  return,  he  obtains  some  of  the  offerings  which  have 
been  presented  to  the  idol  or  idols,  and  brings  them  home  to 
give  to  his  friends  and  neighbours ;  these  consist  of  sweetmeats, 
toolusee  leaves,  the  ashes  of  cow-dung,  &c.  After  celebrating 
the  shraddhii  he  entertains  Brahmans,  and  presents  them  with 
oil,  fish,  and  all  those  things  from  which  he  abstained  :  having 
done  this  he  returns  to  his  former  course  of  Uving.  The  reward 
promised  to  the  pilgrim  is,  that  he  shall  ascend  to  the  heaven  of 
that  god  who  presides  at  the  holy  place  he  has  visited." 

The    mighty    Bhadrinath    towers    far    above    Chimboraco, 
although — 

" Andes,  giant  of  the  western  star, 


With  meteor-standard  to  the  winds  unfurl'd, 

Looks  from  his  throne  of  clouds  o'er  half  the  world." 

At  Gangoutri,  the  source  of  the  most  sacred  branch  of  the 
Ganges,  Mahadeo  sits  enthroned  in  clouds  and  mist,  amid  rocks 
that  defy  the  approach  of  living  thing,  and  snows  that  make 
desolation  more  awful.  But  although  Gangoutri  be  the  most 
sacred,  it  is  not  the  most  frequented  shrine,  access  to  it  being 
far  more  difiicult  than  to  Bhadrinath ;  and,  consequently,  to 
this  latter  pilgrims  flock  in  crowds,  appalled  at  the  remoteness 
and  danger  of  the  former  place  of  worship.  This  may  pretty 
fully  account  for  the  superior  riches  and  splendour  of  Bhadri- 
nath. The  town  and  temple  of  Bhadrinath  are  situate  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Alacknunda,  in  the  centre  of  a  valley;  the 
town  is  built  on  the  sloping  bank  of  the  river,  and  contains  only 
twenty  or  thirty  huts,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Brahmans 
and  other  attendants  on  the  deity :  the  sera  of  its  foundation  is 
too  remote  to  have  reached  us  even  by  tradition. 

A  hot  spring,  issuing  from  the  mountain  by  a  subterraneous 

*  passage,  supplies  the  Tapta-Kund  ;  it  has  a  sulphureous  smell : 

Surya-Kund  is  another  hot  spring  issuing  from  the  bank.     The 

principal  idol,  Bhadrinath,  is  placed  in  artificial  obscurity  in  the 

temple,  and  is  dressed  in  gold  and  silver  brocade  ;  above  his 


KEDARNATH GANGOUTRI.  263 

head  is  a  small  looking-glass,  and  two  or  three  glimmering 
lamps  burn  before  him,  exhibiting  the  image  in  a  dubious  light. 
This  temple  hjis  more  beneficed  lands  attached  to  it  than  any 
other  sacred  Hindu  establishment  in  this  part  of  India.  A  large 
number  of  servants  of  every  description  are  kept,  and  during 
the  months  of  pilgrimage  the  deity  is  well-clothed,  and  fares 
sumptuously  every  day  ;  but  as  soon  as  winter  commences,  the 
priests  take  their  departure,  leaving  him  to  provide  for  his  own 
wants  until  the  periodical  return  of  the  holy  season.  The 
treasures  and  valuable  utensils  are  buried  in  a  vault  under  the 
temple. 

The  pilgrims  assemble  at  Hurdwar,  and  as  soon  as  the  fair  is 
concluded  they  visit  Bhadrinath,  often  to  the  amount  of  forty- 
five  to  fifty  thousand,  the  greater  part  of  whom  are  fakirs. 

KEDARNATH. 

The  next  remarkable  peak  is  that  of  Kedamath,  23,062  feet 
above  the  sea ;  and  the  supposed  source  of  the  Ganges  is  placed 
below  it  at  the  elevation  of  13,800  feet. 

The  temple  of  Kediir-Nath  is  situated  at  the  source  of  the 
Kall-Gunga ;  it  is  of  indefinite  antiquity,  not  lofty,  but  of  some 
extent,  and  sacred  to  Mahadeo,  or  Shiva,  under  the  name  of 
Kedar.  There  are  several  dhrum-salas  erected  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  pilgrims  who  resort  to  the  shrine,  and  who  are 
pretty  numerous  every  year.  There  are  many  kunds  or  springs 
near  it. 

The  Moira  peak  is  22,792  feet  above  the  sea. 
• 

GANGOUTRI. 

GangoutrT  (Ganga  avatari)  marked  10,319  feet  above  the  sea, 
is  the  celebrated  place  of  pilgrimage,  near  to  which  the  river 
Ganges  issues  ;  its  course  has  not  been  traced  beyond  Gangoutrl, 
for  the  stream,  a  httle  farther,  is  entirely  concealed  under  a 
glacier  or  iceberg,  and  is  supposed  to  be  inaccessible.  The  small 
mandap  here  is  of  stone,  and  contains  small  statues  of  Bhagi- 
ratha,  Ganga,  and  other  local  deities :  it  stands  on  a  piece  of 
rock,  about  twenty  feet  higher  than  the  bed  of  the  Ganges,  and 


264  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

at  a  little  distance  there  is  a  rough  wooden  building  to  shelter 
travellers.  Notwithstanding  the  great  efficacy  attributed  to  this 
pilgrimage,  Gangoutri  is  but  little  frequented.  The  accomplish- 
ment of  it  is  supposed  to  redeem  the  performer  from  many 
troubles  in  this  world,  and  ensure  a  happy  transit  through  all 
the  stages  of  transmigration  he  may  have  to  undergo.  A  trifle 
is  paid  to  the  Brahman  for  the  privilege  of  taking  the  water, 
which  the  Hindus  believe  is  so  pure,  as  neither  to  evaporate  or 
become  corrupted  by  being  kept  and  transported  to  distant 
places.  The  Ganges  enters  the  plains  at  Hurdwar,  flows  on  to 
Priig,  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Jumna ;  and,  after  receiving 
various  rivers  in  its  course,  it  passes  through  that  labyrinth  of 
creeks  and  rivers  called  the  Sunderbands  into  the  sea. 
Captain  J.  A.  Hodgson  thus  describes  Gangoutri : — 
"  A  most  wonderful  scene  :  the  B'h^girat'hi  or  Ganges  issues 
from  under  a  very  low  arch  at  the  foot  of  the  grand  snow-bed. 
The  river  is  here  bounded  to  the  right  and  left  by  high  snow  and 
rocks ;  but  in  front,  over  the  Dehouche,  the  mass  of  snow  is 
perfectly  perpendicular ;  and  from  the  bed  of  the  stream  to  the 
summit  we  estimate  the  thickness  at  little  less  than  three  hundred 
feet  of  solid  frozen  snow,  probably  the  accumulation  of  ages  ; 
it  is  in  layers  of  some  feet  thick,  each  seemingly  the  remains  of 
a  fall  of  a  separate  year.  From  the  brow  of  this  curious  wall 
of  snow,  and  immediately  above  the  outlet  of  the  stream,  large 
and  hoary  icicles  depend  ;  they  are  formed  by  the  freezing  of  the 
melted  snow-water  of  the  top  of  the  bed,  for  in  the  middle  of 
the  day  the  sun  is  powerful,  and  the  water  produced  by  its 
action  falls  over  this  place  in  cascade,  but  is  frozen  at  eight. 
The  Gangoutri  Brahmin  who  came  with  us,  and  who  is  only  an 
illiterate  mountaineer,  observed,  that  he  thought  these  icicles 
must  be  Mahad^va's  hair,  whence,  as  he  understood  it  is 
written  in  the  sha'stra,  the  Ganges  flows.  I  cannot  think  of  any 
place  to  which  they  might  more  aptly  give  the  name  of  Cow's 
Mouth  than  this  extraordinary  Debouche. 

"We  were  surrounded  by  gigantic  peaks,  entirely  cased  in 
snow,  and  almost  beyond  the  regions  of  animal  and  vegetable 
life ;  and  an  awful  silence  prevailed,  except  when  broken  by  the 


JUMNOTRI.  265 

thundering  peals  of  falling  avalanches.  Nothing  met  our  eyes 
resembling  the  scenery  in  the  haunts  of  men  ;  by  moonlight  all 
appeared  cold,  wild,  and  stupendous,  and  a  Pagan  might  aptly 
imagine  the  place  a  fit  abode  for  demons.  We  did  not  even  see 
bears,  or  musk  deer,  or  eagles,  or  any  living  creature,  except 
small  birds.  The  dazzling  brilliancy  of  the  snow  was  rendered 
more  striking  by  its  contrast  with  the  dark  blue  colour  of  the 
sky,  which  is  caused  by  the  thinness  of  the  air ;  and  at  night 
the  stars  shone  with  a  lustre  which  they  have  not  in  a  denser 
atmosphere."  "  It  falls  to  the  lot  of  few  to  contemplate  so 
magnificent  an  object  as  a  snow-clad  peak  rising  to  the  height  of 
upwards  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  at  the  horizontal  distance  of  only 
two  and  a  half  miles." 

"  She  is  called  Ganga  on  account  of  her  flowing  through 
Gang,  the  earth  :  she  is  called  Jahnavi,  from  a  choleric  Hindu 
saint :  she  is  called  Bhagirathi,  from  the  royal  devotee  Bhagi- 
ratha,  who,  by  the  intensity  and  austerity  of  his  devotions, 
brought  her  from  heaven  to  earth,  whence  she  proceeded  to  the 
infernal  regions,  to  reanimate  the  ashes  of  his  ancestors :  and 
lastly,  she  is  called  Triputhaga,  on  account  of  her  proceeding 
forward  in  three  different  directions,  watering  the  three  worlds — 
heaven,  earth,  and  the  infernal  regions, — and  filling  the  ocean, 
which,  according  to  the  Brahmanical  mythology,  although  exca- 
vated before  her  appearance,  was  destitute  of  water." 

Hurdwar,  at  which  place  the  Ganges  issues  on  the  plains,  is 
put  down  on  the  map. 

The  impracticable  deserts  of  snow  and  rocks  in  these  lofty 
regions  alone  prevent  the  pilgrim  from  going  directly  from  one 
place  to  another.  Thus,  eleven  days'  journey  are  spun  out 
from  Gangoutri  to  Kedarnath ;  while  seven  or  eight  days  are 
expended  in  reaching  Bhadrinath  from  the  latter  place. 

On  the  map  a  beautiful  range  of  mountains  now  appear, 
crowned  with  the  Jaunti  Peak,  21,940  feet;  next  is  Sir  Kanta, 
and  then  the  pass  of  Bamsera. 

JUMNOTRI. 

Bandarponch  is  23,916  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the   Peaks  of 


266  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

Jumnotrl,  20,120.  Jumnotrl  itself,  the  source  of  the  Jumna,  is 
marked  below  in  the  map  at  the  elevation  of  10,849  feet. 

At  Jumnotrl  the  snow,  which  covers  and  conceals  the 
stream,  is  about  sixty  yards  wide,  and  is  bounded  to  the  right 
and  left  by  mural  precipices  of  granite ;  it  is  forty  feet  five  and 
a  half  inches  thick,  and  has  fallen  from  the  precipices  above. 
In  front,  at  the  distance  of  about  five  hundred  yards,  part  of 
the  base  of  the  Jumnotrl  mountain  rises  abruptly,  cased  in  snow 
and  ice,  and  shutting  up  and  totally  terminating  the  head  of 
this  defile,  in  which  the  Jumna  originates.  Captain  Hodgson 
says,  "  I  was  able  to  measure  the  thickness  of  the  bed  of  snow 
over  the  stream  very  exactly,  by  means  of  a  plumb-Une  let 
down  through  one  of  the  holes  in  it,  which  are  caused  by  the 
steam  of  a  great  number  of  boiling  springs  which  are  at  the 
border  of  the  Jumna."  The  range  of  springs,  which  are  exten- 
sive, are  in  the  dark  recesses,  and  in  the  snow  caverns.  The 
following  is  related  concerning  the  origin  of  these  hot  springs  : — 
"  The  spirits  of  the  Rikhs,  or  twelve  holy  men,  who  followed 
Mahadeo  from  Lunka  to  the  Himalaya  (after  the  usurpation  of 
the  tyrant  Rawan),  inhabit  this  rock,  and  continually  worship 
him.  Here  the  people  bathe,  the  Brahman  says  prayers,  receives 
his  dues,  and  marks  the  pilgrims  with  the  sacred  mud  of  the 
hot  springs.  The  people,  out  of  respect,  put  off  their  shoes  long 
before  they  reach  Jangotrl,  and  at  this  place  there  is  no  shelter 
for  them  during  the  night.  Jumna  prefers  simple  worship  at 
the  foot  of  her  own  and  natural  shrine,  and  has  forbidden  the 
erection  of  temples  to  her  honour." 

Noble  rocks  of  varied  hues  and  forms,  crowned  with  luxuri- 
antly dark  foliage,  and  the  stream  foaming  from  rock  to  rock, 
form  a  fore-ground  worthy  of  Jumnotrl.  When  Mahadeo  retired 
from  Lunka,  disgusted  with  the  rebellion  of  his  son  Rawan,  the 
tyrant  and  usurper  of  Lunka,  he  formed  Kylds,  or  the  Himalaya 
range,  for  his  retreat  ;  and  Soomeroo  Purbat,  or  Roodroo 
Himala,  with  its  five  peaks,  rugged  and  inaccessible  as  it  is,  for 
his  own  dweUing.  The  Bhagiruttee  and  Alacknunda  are  there 
said  to  have  sprung  from  the  head  of  Mahadeo.  Twelve  holy 
Brahmans,  denominated  the  twelve  Rikhs,  left  Lunka  in  search 


HAUNTED  GLEN  OF  PALIA  GADH.  267 

of  Mahadeo,  and  penetrated  to  Bhyramghattee,  where  the  J'han- 
nevie  meets  the  Bhagiruttee,  but  could  not  find  him.  Eleven  of 
them,  in  despair,  went  to  Cashmire,  but  the  twelfth,  named  Jum- 
RekhT,  remained  at  Bhyramghattee,  sitting  on  a  huge  rock  in 
the  course  of  the  stream  Bhagiruttee,  which,  instead  of  flow- 
ing on  as  usual,  was  absorbed  in  the  body  of  the  saint  and  lost, 
while  the  J'hannevie  flowed  on.  The  goddess  of  the  stream  (Bha- 
giruttee) herself  was  at  Gungotri,  worshipping  Mahadeo,  and 
making  her  prostrations  on  the  stone  on  which  the  present 
temple  is  founded.  When  she  felt  the  course  of  the  stream  was 
stopped,  she  went  in  wrath  to  Bhyramghattee,  clave  Jum-Rekhl 
in  two,  and  gave  a  free  passage  to  the  river.  One-half  of  the 
Rekhi  she  flung  to  the  westward,  and  it  became  the  mountain 
Bandarponch :  from  his  thigh  sprang  the  Jumna,  and  from 
his  skull  arose  the  hot  springs  of  Jumnotri.  They  still  show 
the  large  rock  which  the  Rikh  sat  upon,  and  which  was  divided 
in  two  by  the  same  fatal  cut.  It  is  a  very  large  block  of  granite, 
which  appears  to  have  faUen  from  the  cliff",  above  the  point  of 
union  of  the  two  rivers,  and  is  curiously  split  in  two. 

The  name  of  Bandarponch  applies  properly  only  to  the 
highest  peaks  of  this  mountain.  Jumnotri  has  reference  to 
the  sacred  spot,  where  worship  is  paid  to  the  goddess  and  ablu- 
tion performed. 

Frazer,  speaking  of  a  glen  about  three  days'  journey  from 
Jumnotri,  says,  "  Having  reached  the  top  of  the  ascent,  we 
looked  down  upon  a  very  dark  and  deep  glen,  called  Palia  Gadh, 
which  is  the  outlet  to  the  waters  of  one  of  the  most  terrific  and 
gloomy  valleys  I  have  ever  seen.  It  would  not  be  easy  to 
convey  by  any  description  a  just  idea  of  the  peculiarly  rugged 
and  gloomy  wildness  of  this  glen :  it  looks  like  the  ruins  of 
nature,  and  appears,  as  it  is  said  to  be,  completely  impracticable 
and  impenetrable.  Little  is  to  be  seen  except  dark  rocks,  wood 
only  fringes  the  lower  parts  and  the  water's  edge :  perhaps  the 
spots  and  streaks  of  snow,  contrasting  with  the  general  black- 
ness of  the  scene,  heighten  the  appearance  of  desolation.  No 
living  thing  is  seen ;  no  motion  but  that  of  the  waters  ;  no 
sound  but  their  roar      Such  a  spot  is  suited  to  engender  super- 


268  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

stition  ;  and  here  it  is  accordingly  found  in  full  growth.  Many 
wild  traditions  are  preserved,  and  many  extravagant  stories 
related  of  it.  On  one  of  these  ravines  there  are  places  of 
worship,  not  built  by  men,  but  natural  piles  of  stones,  which 
have  the  appearance  of  small  temples.  These  are  said  to  be  the 
residence  of  the  dewtas,  or  spirits,  who  here  haunt  and  inveigle 
human  beings  away  to  their  wild  abodes.  It  is  said  that  they 
have  a  particular  predilection  for  beauty  in  both  sexes,  and 
remorselessly  seize  on  any  whom  imprudence  or  accident  may 
have  placed  within  their  power,  and  whose  spirits  become  like 
theirs,  after  they  are  deprived  of  their  corporeal  frame.  Many 
instances  were  given  of  these  ravishments :  on  one  occasion  a 
young  man,  who  had  wandered  near  their  haunts,  being  carried 
in  a  trance  to  the  valley,  heard  the  voice  of  his  own  father,  who 
some  years  before  had  been  thus  spirited  away,  and  who  now 
recognized  his  son.  It  appears  that  paternal  affection  was 
stronger  than  the  spell  that  bound  him,  and  instead  of  rejoicing 
in  the  acquisition  of  a  new  prey,  he  recollected  the  forlorn  state 
of  his  family  deprived  of  their  only  support :  he  begged  and 
obtained  the  freedom  of  his  son,  who  was  dismissed  under  the 
injunction  of  strict  silence  and  secrecy.  He,  however,  forgot 
his  vow,  and  was  immediately  deprived  of  speech ;  and,  as  a 
self-punishment,  he  cut  out  his  tongue  with  his  own  hand.  This 
man  was  said  to  be  yet  living,  and  I  desired  that  he  should  be 
brought  to  me ;  but  he  never  came,  and  they  afterwards  in- 
formed me  that  he  had  very  lately  died.  More  than  one  person 
is  said  to  have  approached  the  spot,  or  the  precincts  of  these 
spirits,  and  those  who  have  returned,  have  generally  agreed  in 
the  expression  of  their  feelings,  and  have  uttered  some  pro- 
phecy. They  fall,  as  they  say,  into  a  swoon,  and  between 
sleeping  and  waking  hear  a  conversation,  or  are  sensible  of 
certain  impressions,  as  if  a  conversation  were  passing  which 
generally  relates  to  some  future  event.  Indeed,  the  prophetic 
faculty  is  one  of  the  chiefly  remarkable  attributes  of  these 
spirits,  and  of  this  place.  The  awe,  however,  which  the  natives 
feel  of  this  place  is  great  and  remarkable.  The  moment  that 
Bhisht  and  Kishen  Sing  came  in  sight  of  the  place,  they  com- 


BANDARPONCH.  269 

menced  prostrations,  and  the  forms  of  worship,  with  many 
prayers  and  much  apparent  fervency,  to  the  spirits  of  the  glen. 
They  assert  that  no  man  ever  ascended  the  valley  to  any  con- 
siderable height ;  and  that  natural,  as  well  as  supernatural, 
obstacles  are  too  great  to  be  overcome ;  that  of  the  few  who 
have  attempted  it,  none  ever  returned,  or  ever  enjoyed  his 
reason  again :  and  I  believe  that  the  former  of  these  obstacles 
may  be  nearly  paramount,  for  a  survey  with  the  glass  showed 
the  difficulty  to  be  at  least  very  great ;  and  certainly,  ascending 
the  hill  to  the  top  would  be  altogether  impossible." 

There  are  said  to  be  four  peaks  which  form  the  top  of  Bandar- 
ponch,  and  in  a  cavity,  or  hollow,  contained  between  them  tra- 
dition places  a  lake  or  tank  of  very  peculiar  sanctity.  No  one 
has  ever  seen  this  pool,  for  no  one  has  ever  attempted  to  ascend 
any  of  these  prodigious  peaks.  Bandarponch  signifies  "mon- 
key's tail."  It  is  said  that  Htinooman,  after  his  conquest  of 
Lunka,  or  Ceylon,  in  the  shape  of  a  monkey,  when  he  had  set 
that  island  on  fire  by  means  of  a  quantity  of  combustible  matter 
tied  to  his  tail,  being  afraid  of  the  flame  reaching  himself,  was 
about  to  dip  it  in  the  sea  (sumunder)  to  extinguish  it ;  but  the 
sea  remonstrated  with  him,  on  account  of  the  probable  conse- 
quence to  the  inhabitants  of  its  waters  :  whereupon  Hunooman 
plunged  his  burning  tail  into  this  lake,  which  has  ever  since 
retained  the  name.  The  Zemindars  aver,  that  every  year,  in  the 
month  P'hagun,  a  single  monkey  comes  from  the  plains,  by  way 
of  Hurdwar,  and  ascends  the  highest  peak  of  this  mountain, 
where  he  remains  twelve  months,  and  returns  to  give  room  to 
another ;  but  his  entertainment  must  be  very  indifferent  and 
inhospitable,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the  nature  of  the  place ; 
for  he  returns  in  very  bad  plight,  being  not  only  reduced  to  a 
skeleton,  but  having  lost  his  hair  and  a  great  part  of  his  skin. 

Naldpan'i  and  the  level  of  the  Dehra  Dun  are  marked  in  the 
map  below  the  source  of  the  Jumna. 

The  Cone  is  a  most  remarkable  peak ;  the  elevation  of 
Parkyal  and  Kaldung  is  conspicuous  among  the  lower  mountains 
over  which  they  tower.  The  Nulgoon  Pass  is  marked  below 
them  in  the  map. 


270  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

Extracts  from  the  papers. 

"Height  of  the  Himalayas. — The  Great  Trigonometrical 
Survey  has  determined  the  elevations  of  the  great  peaks  of  the 
Himalaya  range.  The  highest  (supposed  to  be  the  highest  spot 
on  the  surface  of  the  globe)  is  Kunchinginga,  West  Peak, 
28,176  feet ;  the  East  Peak  is  27,825  feet.  The  foUowing  are 
the  elevations  of  other  peaks: — Junnoo,  25,311;  Kabroo, 
24,004;  Chumalari  (in  Tibet),  23,929." 

"  At  a  meeting  of  the  Asiatic  Society  on  the  6th  November, 
a  paper  by  Col.  Waugh,  surveyor-general,  was  read,  giving  the 
result  of  that  officer's  operations  to  determine  the  height  of 
several  Himalayan  peaks  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Daijeeling. 
Col.  Waugh  appears  to  have  satisfactorily  ascertained  that  the 
western  peak  of  Cutchinchinga  was  28, 1 76  feet  high,  and  the 
eastern  27,825 — thus  claiming  for  that  mountain  the  greatest 
altitude  on  the  earth  yet  known.     1848." 


CHAPTER    LVII. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  HILLS, 


Family  Sorrows — The  Snowy  Ranges  after  the  Rains — Hill  Birds — The  Park 
— Hill  Boundaries — Stables  on  Fire — Opening  of  the  Keeree  Pass — Danger 
of  passing  through  it — Deobund — Return  to  Meerut — The  Tomb  of  Jaffir 
Sahib — Chiri-raars — Country  Horses — The  Theatre  of  the  16th  Lancers — 
Colonel  Arnold's  Farewell  Ball — His  Illness — Opinions  respecting  the  War — 
The  Lancers  ordered  to  Afghanistan — Ghurmuktesur  Ghat — Country  Boats — 
Khobarah,  the  Hill  Dog — Sancho — A  Dilemma — Giinths — Knocked  over 
by  a  Buffalo — Fathlgarh — Dhobis — Cawnpore — Sal  and  Teak  Trees — Deism 
— Points  of  Faith — The  Power  of  the  Brahmans — A  Converted  Hindu — 
Sneezing  an  111  Omen — The  Return  of  the  Pilgrim. 

1838,  Sept.  8th. — I  made  arrangements  with  my  relative  to 
march  across  the  mountains  to  Simla,  a  journey  of  fifteen  days 
from  Landowr,  and  was  looking  forward  with  delight  to  all  the 
adventures  we  should  meet  with,  and  the  crossing  the  river  in  a 
basket  suspended  on  a  rope  fastened  across  the  stream  ;  but  he, 
an  old  mountaineer,  would  not  permit  me  to  begin  the  journey 
until  the  khuds — which  are  unwholesome  during  the  rains,  and 
full  of  fever — should  be  fit  to  pass  through.  A  friend  had 
given  me  the  use  of  a  house  for  some  months  beyond  Simla, ' 
and  I  was  anxious  to  visit  that  part  of  the  country.  In  the 
interval  we  formed  a  party  to  see  the  mountains  at  the  back  of 
Landowr,  and  I  sent  out  my  hill  tents  to  the  interior. 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  127.  '  Ibid.  No.  128. 


272  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

In  the  evening  I  was  riding  alone  at  Mussoorl,  when  I  met 

Captain  L ;  there  was  an  embarrassment  and  distress  in  his 

manner  that  surprised  me :  he  quitted  his  party,  and  led  my 
pony  away  from  the  walk,  where  the  people  were  in  crowds,  and 
when  we  were  alone  informed  me  of  the  death  of  my  beloved 
father.  I  had  received  no  letters  from  home :  this  melancholy 
event  had  been  known  some  days  at  Mussoorl,  but  no  one  had 
had  the  courage  to  tell  his  child.  With  what  pain  I  reflected 
on  having  so  long  postponed  my  return  home !  Letters  from 
Allahabad  confirmed  the  melancholy  news,  and  my  kind  husband 
urged  my  return  to  England  instantly,  to  see  my  remaining  and 
widowed  parent. 

I  recalled  my  tents  and  people  from  the  interior ;  and  from 
that  moment  the  thoughts  of  home,  and  of  what  time  it  would 
take  from  the  Himalaya  to  Devonshire,  alone  filled  my  thoughts. 
It  was  decided  I  should  sail  from  Calcutta  the  next  cold  season. 

The  weather  had  become  most  beautiful ;  the  rains  had  passed 
away,  and  the  most  bracing  air  was  over  the  Hills.  I  spent  my 
time  chiefly  in  solitude,  roaming  in  the  Hills  at  the  back  of 
Landowr  ;  and  where  is  the  grief  that  is  not  soothed  and  tran- 
quillized by  the  enjoyment  of  such  scenery  ?  The  rains  had 
passed  away,  and  had  left  the  air  clear  and  transparent;  the 
beauty  of  the  Snowy  Ranges,  whose  majestic  heads  at  intervals 
flushed  brightly  with  the  rose-tints  that  summer  twilight  leaves 
upon  their  lofty  brows, — or  rising  with  their  snowy  peaks  of 
glittering  whiteness  high  above  the  clouds,  was  far  greater  than 
I  ever  beheld  before  the  departure  of  the  rains. 

Look  at  the  outline  of  the  highest  range  of  the  Himalaya,  and 
picture  to  yourself  its  grandeur  and  its  beauty,  which  are  not  to 
be  fully  enjoyed  in  the  society  of  others,  in  the  midst  of  the 
gaiety  of  a  party.  Seek  the  highest  point  of  the  lone  mountains, 
and  the  shade  of  the  deep  forests,  whose  beautiful  foliage  is  varied 
by  majestic  pines,  ever-green  oaks,  and  brilliant  rhododendrons. 
*  In  soUtude  gaze  on  the  magnificence  of  such  a  scene : 

"  Look  through  nature  up  to  nature's  God  :" 

''  Commune  with  thine  own  heart,  and  be  still."     Let  none  be 


THE    SNOWY    RANGES    AFTER   THE    RAINS.  273 

near  to  break  the  reverie :  look  on  those  mountains  of  eternal 
snow, — the  rose-tints  linger  on  them,  the  white  clouds  roll 
below,  and  their  peaks  are  sharply  set  upon  a  sky  of  the 
brightest,  clearest,  and  deepest  blue.  The  rushing  wing  of  the 
black  eagle — that  "  winged  and  cloud-cleaving  minister,  whose 
happy  flight  is  highest  into  heaven," — may  be  heard  above. 
The  golden  eagle  may  be  seen  below,  poised  on  his  wing  of 
might,  or  swooping  over  a  precipice,  while  his  keen  eye  pierces 
downward,  seeking  his  prey,  into  the  depths  of  the  narrow 
valley  between  the  mountains.  The  sweet  notes  of  the  Hill 
birds  are  around  you  ;  and  the  gay  butterflies,  enamoured  of  the 
wild  flowers,  hover  over  their  blossoms. 

Who  may  describe  the  solitary  loveliness,  the  speaking 
quietude,  that  wraps  these  forest  scenes  ?  Who  may  tell  how 
beautiful  they  are  ?    Who  that  loves  solitude  does  not  enjoy  the 

■  dewy  mom,  and  od'rous  noon,  and  even 


With  sunset,  and  its  gorgeous  ministers  ?  " 

Who  can  look  unmoved  on  the  coronets  of  snow  that  crown 
the  eternal  Himalaya?  Who  can  gaze  without  delight  on  the 
aerial  mountains  that  pour  down  the  Ganga  and  Yamuna  from 
their  snow-formed  caves  ? 

"  My  altars  are  the  mountains  and  the  ocean, 
Earth,  air,  stars, — all  that  springs  from  the  great  Whole, 
Who  hath  produced  and  will  receive  the  soul." 

"  1  love  snow,  and  all  the  forms 
Of  the  radiant  frost ; 
I  love  waves,  and  winds,  and  storms, 

Every  thing  almost 
Which  is  nature's,  and  may  be 
Untainted  by  man's  misery." 

There,  indulge  in  solemn  vision  and  bright  silver  dream,  while 
"  every  sight  and  sound  from  the  vast  earth  and  ambient  air" 
sends  to  your  heart  its  choicest  impulses  :  gaze  on  those  rocks 
and  pinnacles  of  snow,  where  never  foot  of  common  mortal 
trod,  which  the  departing  rose-tints  leave  in  colder  grandeur, 

VOL.  II.  X 


274  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM. 

and  enjoy  those  solemn  feelings  of  natural  piety  with  wliich  the 
spirit  of  solitude  imbues  the  soul. 

"  Are  not  the  mountains,  waves,  and  skies,  a  part 
Of  me  and  of  my  soul,  as  1  of  them  ? 
Is  not  the  love  of  these  deep  in  my  heart 
With  a  pure  passion  ?" 

"  On  accuse  I'enthousiasme  d'etre  passager  ;  1 'existence  serait 
trop  heureuse  si  Ton  pouvait  retenir  des  emotions  si  belle  ;  mais 
c'est  parcequ'elles  se  dissipent  aisement  qu'il  faut  s'occuper  de 
les  conserver." 

"  Mont  Blanc  is  the  monarch  of  mountains. 
They  crown'd  him  long  ago. 
On  a  throne  of  rocks,  in  a  robe  of  clouds. 
With  a  diadem  of  snow." 

Gazing  on  the  Snowy  Ranges,  Mont  Blanc  sinks  into  insig- 
nificance in  comparison  with  the  elevation  of  the  eternal 
Himalaya. 

I2th. — Anxious  to  attain  a  stock  of  health,  to  enable  me  to 
bear  my  homeward  journey,  I  commenced  early  rising,  and  was 
daily  on  my  giinth  at  5  a.m.  ;  it  was  very  cold  in  the  early 
morning,  so  much  so  that  I  often  preferred  walking.  Captain 
Sturt,  who  is  an  excellent  draughtsman,  promised  me  a  sketch 
of  the  Hills  ere  my  departure ;  this  pleased  me  greatly,  as, 
perhaps,  there  is  no  country  of  which  it  is  more  difficult  to  give 
a  correct  idea  than  that  around  Landowr.  Two  fine  eagles  were 
brought  to  me,  a  golden  and  a  black  one  ;  these  I  added  to  my 
collection, — rather  large  birds  to  carry,  but  I  shall  have  so  much 
luggage,  it  matters  but  little,  a  few  chests  more  or  less ;  every 
thing  belonging  to  the  mountains  is  so  interesting.  These 
birds  are  continually  seen,  especially  at  the  back  of  Landowr. 
A  pair  of  the  Loonjee,  the  red,  or  Argus  pheasants  of  the  Hima- 
laya, have  been  given  me :  the  bird  has  a  black  top-knot,  and 
the  neck  below  has  a  most  peculiar  skin  over  it ;  beyond  which 
are  crimson  feathers,  bright  as  gold  ;  the  breast  is  covered  with 
feathers,  half  red,  half  black,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  black, 


HILL    BOUNDARIES.  275 

which  is  at  the  end  of  the  feather,  is  a  white  eye.  Tlie  feathers 
on  the  back  are  of  a  game  brown,  tipped  with  black,  in  which  is 
also  the  white  spot :  these  birds  are  very  rare  and  very  valuable. 
I  also  received  a  fine  hawk,  and  some  small  birds  of  brilliant 
feather :  also  the  heads  and  horns  of  four  gooral,  the  small  wild 
deer  of  the  Hills. 

20th. — First  met  Colonel  Arnold,  of  the  16th  Lancers;  we 
talked  of  the  old  regiment.  Nothing  pleases  me  so  much  as 
the  kindness  and  affection  with  which  my  relatives,  who  were  in 
this  gallant  corps,  are  spoken  of  by  the  old  16th. 

22nd. — Not  having  forgotten  the  Hill  woman  I  saw  on  our 
return  from  the  waterfall,  I  rode  alone  to  Biittah,  hoping  to 
catch  sight  of  her,  but  was  disappointed  :  en  route,  my  dog 
Sancho  put  up  a  nide  of  Kallinge  pheasants  ;  they  rose  with  a 
phurr, — as  the  natives  call  the  noise  of  a  bird, — as  of  a  partridge 
or  quail  suddenly  taking  wing. 

23rd. — Colonel  Everest  has  a  fine  estate  near  Bhadraj,  called 
"  The  Park;"  I  rode  over  with  a  most  agreeable  party  to  breakfast 
there  this  morning,  and  to  arrange  respecting  some  boundaries, 
which,  after  all,  we  left  as  unsettled  as  ever ;  it  put  me  in  mind 
of  the  child's  play  : — 

"  '  Here  stands  a  post.' — '  Who  put  it  there  ?' 
'  A  better  man  than  you,  touch  it  if  you  dare.'  " 

Boundaries  in  the  Hills  are  determined,  not  by  landmarks, 
but  by  the  fall  of  the  rain  ;  in  the  division  of  a  mountain,  all  that 
land  is  yours  down  which  the  rain  water  runs  on  your  side,  and 
on  the  opposite  side,  all  the  land  is  your  neighbour's  over  which 
the  water  makes  its  way  downwards. 

Colonel  Everest  is  making  a  road — a  most  scientific  affair ; 
the  obstacles  to  be  conquered  are  great, — levelling  rocks, 
and  filling  up  khuds.  The  Park  is  the  finest  estate  in  the 
Hills. 

25th. — I  was  fortunate  in  being  able  to  procure  camels,  and 
sent  off  my  baggage  from  Rajpur  in  time  to  allow  the  animals 
to  return  to  Meerut  to  be  in  readiness  to  march  with  the  army 
there  collecting  for  Afghanistan. 

T  2 


276  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

26th. — A  sa'Is  cooking  his  dinner  by  accident  set  fire  to  mj' 
stables,  in  which  were  five  gunths  :  the  privates  of  the  Lancers 
and  Buffs,  whose  barracks  are  a  Httle  higher  up  the  Hill, 
were  with  us  in  a  moment;  they  saved  the  ponies,  but 
the  stable,  which  was  formed  of  bamboo,  mats,  and  straw, 
was  reduced  to  ashes.  A  few  days  afterwards  our  house 
was  set  on  fire ;  the  men,  who  were  always  on  the  alert,  put  it 
out  immediately. 

29th. — Having  ascertained  that  the  water  in  the  Keeree  Pass 
had  subsided,  and  that  it  had  been  open  for  three  days,  we 
determined  to  quit  Landowr  for  Meerut :  accordingly  a  diik  and 
horses  having  been  laid  for  us,  our  party  went  down  this  morning 
to  Rajpur.  It  was  a  beautiful  ride,  but  when  we  reached  the 
foot  of  the  Hill  the  heat  became  most  unpleasant :  such  a  sudden 
change  from  fires  and  cold  breezes,  to  the  hot  winds — for  such 
it  felt  to  us  at  Rajpur — when  we  took  refuge  at  Mrs.  Theodore's 
hotel.  She  has  stuffed  birds  for  sale  ;  her  Moonal  pheasants 
are  very  dear,  sixteen  rupees  a  pair  ;  but  they  are  not  reckoned 
as  well  prepared  as  those  of  Mr.  Morrow,  the  steward  at  the 
hospital.     Our  party  being  too  large  to  proceed  dak  in  a  body, 

it  was  agreed  I  should  lead  the  way,  with  Captain  L as  my 

escort.  At  4  p.m.  we  got  into  our  palanquins,  and  commenced 
the  journey  :  crossing  the  Deyra  Dhoon  it  was  hot,  very  hot,  and 
the  sides  of  the  palanquin  felt  quite  burning.  As  the  sun  sank 
we  entered  the  Keeree  Pass,  where  I  found  the  air  very  cold ;  and 
it  struck  so  chillily  upon  me  that  I  got  out  of  the  palanquin, 
intending  to  walk  some  distance.  The  Pass  is  the  dry  bed  of  a 
mountain  ton-ent,  passing  through  high  cliffs,  covered  with  fine 
trees  and  climbers ;  a  stream  here  and  there  crosses  the  road. 
During  a  part  of  the  year  it  is  impassable,  but  the  water  having 
subsided,  the  road  had  been  open  three  days. 

It  was  a  beautiful  night,  and  a  beautiful  scene ;  I  enjoyed  it 
extremely,  and  walked  some  distance,  aided  by  my  long  pahari 
.pole.  Wishing  my  escort  to  partake  in  the  pleasure  to  be 
derived  from  such  romantic  and  picturesque  scenery,  I  asked 
him  if  he  would  walk.  He  partially  opened  the  doors  of  his 
palanquin,  and  looking  out,  expressed  his  astonishment  at  the 


THE    KEEREE    PASS.  277 

madness  of  my  walking  in  the  Pass ;  said  the  malaria  was  so 
great  he  had  shut  the  doors  of  the  palkl,  and  lighted  a  cigar  to 
secure  himself  from  its  influence,  begged  I  would  get  into  my 
palanquin,  and  keep  the  doors  closed  as  long  as  I  was  in  the 
Pass.  I  followed  his  advice,  but  the  moonhght  night  often 
tempted  me  to  open  the  doors,  and  I  became  completely  ill  at 
times  from  the  chill  that  fell  upon  my  chest,  like  the  deadly  chill 
of  a  vault,  in  spite  of  having  wrapped  myself  up  in  a  blanket. 
At  first  I  was  unwilhng  to  attribute  it  to  the  effect  of  the  air  of 
the  Keeree  Pass,  but  having  arrived  at  the  end  of  it,  these 
uncomfortable  feelings  instantly  disappeared. 

An  instance  of  the  danger  of  the  Pass  is,  that  Mrs.  T 

was  detained  for  two  hours  at  the  entrance  of  it,  for  want  of 
bearers, — she  took  a  fever  and  died.  The  wife  of  the  behishti, 
who  was  with  our  servants,  was  detained  at  the  same  place, — she 
took  the  fever,  and  it  killed  her.  To  sleep  in  the  Pass  one  night 
is  to  run  the  pretty  certain  chance  of  fever,  perhaps  death : 
there  is  something  in  the  air  that  almost  compels  one  to  sleep. 
With  the  very  greatest  difficulty  I  kept  my  eyes  open,  even  when 
in  pain  from  a  chilly  sickness  that  had  crept  over  me  :  I  thought 
of  Corinne  and  the  Pontine  Marshes,  in  passing  which  she  could 
scarcely  resist  the  spell  that  induced  her  to  long  for  sleep,  even 
when  she  knew  that  sleep  would  be  the  sleep  of  death.  Quitting 
the  Pass,  we  entered  on  the  plains,  where  the  sun  was  burningly 
hot — how  fierce  it  was  !  We  did  not  arrive  at  Deobund,  where  we 
were  to  take  shelter,  until  noon  the  next  day ;  I  felt  sick  and 
faint  from  the  excessive  heat,  and  was  very  glad  to  gain  the 
shelter  of  a  roof. 

30th. — At  4  P.M.  our  palanquins  were  ready;  getting  into 
them  was  like  going  into  an  oven.  We  had  taken  the  precaution 
of  having  no  dinner  during  the  heat  of  the  day  ;  in  the  cool  of  the 
evening  refreshment  was  welcome,  in  the  shade  of  the  jangal  by 
the  road-side.  The  bearers  were  good,  and  at  2  a.m.  we  arrived 
at  the  spot,  to  which  a  buggy  had  been  sent,  and  horses  laid  on 
the  road :  how  gladly  I  left  the  hot  palanquin  for  the  cool  air  in 
the  buggy !  The  roads  were  so  bad,  they  were  absolutely  danger- 
ous, and  the  moonlight  so  puzzling,  we  could  not  see  the  holes 
into  which  the  buggy  was  continually  going  bump  bump,  to  the 


278  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

infinite  hazard  of  breaking  the  springs ;  nevertheless,  we  arrived 
in  safety  at  Meerut. 

Oct.  2nd. — ^The  first  thing  necessary  was  to  enjoy  a  good 
canter  in  the  plains  after  having  been  obliged  to  ride  a  gunth  so 
many  months  in  the  Hills.  On  the  well-watered  course,  of  an 
evening,  the  band  of  the  Lancers  was  an  attraction ;  they  played 
well,  and  the  instruments  were  good.  The  band  came  out  with 
us  in  the  "Marchioness  of  Ely,"  and  I  recognised  some  faces 
amongst  them.  Fearing  to  encounter  the  intense  heat  in  a  boat 
at  this  season  of  the  year,  and  hearing  that  cholera  was  at  some 
of  the  stations  on  the  river,  I  determined  to  prolong  my  stay  at 
Meerut. 

8th. — Accompanied  Colonel  Arnold  and  Sir  Willoughby 
Cotton  to  a  review  of  the  16th  Lancers  ;  I  was  much  pleased 
with  the  review,  and  the  fine  appearance  of  the  men. 

lOth. — Revisited  the  tomb  of  Jaffir  Siihib, — one  I  particularly 
admire,  because  the  dome  is  open  at  the  top,  that  the  dews  of 
heaven  and  the  sunshine  may  fall  upon  the  marble  sarcophagus, 
wherein  repose  the  ashes  of  the  saint.  A  tomb  like  this  is 
preferable  to  weeping  flowers,  or  votive  cypress  wreath ;  and 
such  an  one,  canopied  by  the  vault  of  heaven  alone,  would  the 
pilgrim  desire,  as  the  lone  couch  of  her  everlasting  rest.  It  is  a 
ruin,  but  must  formerly  have  been  a  beautiful  budding. 

Returning  home  we  saw  two  chiri-mdrs  (bird-catchers) .  Their 
game  is  snared  in  a  novel  fashion  :  they  carry  a  sort  of  shield, 
made  of  light  split  bamboo,  entwined  with  green  boughs  ;  they 
crouch  to  the  ground,  beziring  this  verdant  shield  before  them, 
like  a  stalking  horse,  at  the  same  time  putting  through  it  a  very 
long  thin  bamboo,  the  end  of  which  is  covered  with  bird-lime  ; 
with  this  they  touch  a  small  bird,  and  then  carefully  drawing 
the  bamboo  back  to  the  boughs,  put  a  hand  through  the  shield, 
and  secure  the  game.  This  style  of  bird-catching  is  simple  and 
ingenious  ;  I  never  saw  it  before. 

What  vicious  brutes  the  native  horses  are ! — In  the  evening  I 

was  riding  on  the  course  with  two  gentlemen  :   Captain  A 's 

horse,  a  vicious,  intemperate,  great  black  animal,  attacked  mine, 
and  lashed  out  most  furiously.  I  threw  my  feet  on  my  horse's 
mane :  luckily  for  me  they  were  out  of  the  way  in  time,  for  the 


COUNTRY    HORSES.  279 

horse's  heels  cut  through  my  habit,  and  would  have  broken  my 
limbs  had  I  not  been  sitting  monkey  fashion. 

My  companions  were  alarmed: — "My  God,  he  has  broken 
her  legs !"  was  the  firet  exclamation,  followed  by  a  laugh  on 
seeing  my  position,  and  "at  least  if  he  has  not  kicked  your 
habit,  he  has  a  habit  of  kicking."     The  escape  pleased  me,  and 
I  refused  to  ride  again  in  company  with  so  dangerous  a  horse. 
He  was  a  fine  strong  animal,  and  carried  his  gallant  master  nobly 
through  all  the  hardships  of  the  ensuing  Afghanistan  campaign. 
The  country  horses  are  horribly  savage,  and  a  frightful  accident 
occurred  at  Allahabad.     Serjeant  Percival,  who  was  riding  with 
Serjeant  Cunningham,  dismounted  to  drink  at  a  well,  giving  his 
horse  to  a  cooly  to  hold ;  the  horse  broke  from  the  cooly  and 
attacked  Serjeant  Cunningham ;  tore  his  hand  severely,  broke 
his  leg  in  several  places,  pulled  him  off  his  horse,  shook  him  as 
a  dog  does  a  rat,  knelt  upon  him,  and  tore  him  with  his  teeth : 
at  length  the  horse  was  driven  off,  and  the  serjeant  was  carried 
to  a  hospital,  where  he  died  a  few  hours  afterwards.     When  the 
16th  Lancers  first  arrived  at  Cawnpore,  the  privates  as  Waterloo 
men  considered  themselves  superior  to  the  1 1  th  Dragoons,  and 
when  a  man  of  the  latter  ventured  to  differ  in  opinion  with  the 
former,  he  was  cut  short  by  "When  were  you  at  Waterloo  ?  "    The 
enmity  occasioned  by  this  was  done  away  with  one  day  on  parade. 
A  Lancer,  who  was  riding  a  vicious  country  horse,  was  thrown  ; 
the  beast  knelt  upon  the  man  and  bit  him  fiercely.    The  Lancers 
looked  on  with  astonishment ;  the  1 1th  Dragoons,  accustomed  to 
such  little  accidents,  had  recourse  to  bamboos ;  they  drove  the 
horse  away,  and  as  one  of  them  picked  up  the  mangled  Lancer, 
"Did  you  ever  see  the  like  of  that  at  Waterloo?"   said  the 
Dragoon. — Thus  was  harmony  established  between  the  privates 
of  the  two  regiments.     The  Lancers  have  a  very  good  theatre  : 
the  plays  are  encouraged  by  the  officers,  and  the  privates  have 
the  whole  management  of  it :  the  scenes,  which  are  painted  by 
the  men,  are  very  well  done  ;  their  acting  is  good,  and  the  band 
a  great  addition.     The  privates  performed  the  "Iron  Chest," 
and  "The  Middy  Ashore:"  the  delight  of  the  men,  and  the 
enthusiastic  manner  in  which  they  applauded  their  comrades, 


280  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

when  any  thing  pleased  them,  was  quite  amusing.  After  the 
play,  the  performers  came  forward,  and  sang  "  God  save  the 
Queen."  By  way  of  adding  to  the  effect,  on  either  side  the 
stage  was  placed  a  Lancer  in  full  uniform,  leaning  on  his  sword, 
with  his  lance  in  one  hand.  This  was  a  fancy  of  the  privates. 
The  two  men  might  have  stood  for  pictures  of  manly  beauty ; 
their  attitudes  were  excellent,  the  effect  was  good,  and  their 
comrades  were  so  much  delighted,  they  gave  them  a  round  of 
applause.  The  management  of  a  theatre  is  an  excellent  occu- 
pation for  soldiers  in  a  hot  climate. 

\3th. — Crossing  a  niila  this  morning  during  an  excursion  in 
search  of  the  picturesque,  my  horse  got  into  a  hole,  and  we 
were  very  nearly  thrown  over,  both  together,  into  the  stream. 
I  gave  him  his  head,  and  let  him  extricate  himself,  waiting 
patiently  the  result  of  his  sagacity.  He  carried  me  out  com- 
pletely soaked,  and  strained  his  hind  leg  in  gaining  the  bank. 

17 th. — Colonel  Arnold  gave  a  farewell  ball  to  his  friends  at 
Meerut.  The  Lancers  are  to  march  for  Afghanistan  on  the 
30th.  His  house  is  built  after  his  own  fancy  :  from  without  it 
has  the  appearance  of  Hindoo  temples  that  have  been  added  to 
a  bungalow ;  nevertheless,  the  effect  is  good.  The  interior  is 
very  unique.  The  shape  of  the  rooms  is  singular ;  the  trellis 
work  of  white  marble  between  them,  and  the  stained  glass  in 
the  windows  and  over  the  doors  give  it  an  Eastern  air  of  beauty 
and  novelty.  Fire-balloons  were  sent  up,  fireworks  displayed  ; 
the  band  was  good,  and  the  ball  went  off  with  great  spirit. 

18^^. — ^The  evening  after  this  fete,  during  the  time  Colonel 
Arnold  was  at  dinner,  and  in  the  act  of  taking  wine  with  Sir 
Willoughby  Cotton,  he  burst  a  blood-vessel  on  his  lungs,  and 
was  nearly  choked.  Medical  aid  was  instantly  called  in ;  he  was  in 
extreme  danger  during  the  night,  and  was  bled  three  times.  A 
hope  of  his  recovery  was  scarcely  entertained  :  never  was  more 
interest  or  more  anxiety  felt  by  any  people  than  by  those  at 
Meerut  for  Colonel  Arnold.  He  had  just  attained  the  object  of 
his  ambition,  the  command  during  the  war  of  that  gallant  regi- 
ment the  1 6th  Ijancers  ;  and  he  was  beloved  both  by  the  officers 
and  the  men.     At  3  a.m.  he  parted  with  the  guests  in  his  ball- 


OPINIONS    RESPECTING    THE    WAR.  281 

room  in  high  health  and  spirits  :  at  seven  that  evening  he  lay 
exhausted  and  apparently  dying.  When  at  Waterloo  he  was 
shot  through  the  lungs,  and  recovered.  It  was  one  of  those 
remarkable  instances  of  recovery  from  a  severe  gun-shot  wound, 
and  as  that  had  gone  through  the  lungs,  the  breaking  of  the 
blood-vessel  was  a  fearful  occurrence. 

2lst. — Colonel  Arnold  is  still  in  great  danger,  but  his  friends 
indulge  in  hopes  of  his  recovery.  Two  field-officers  called  to 
take  leave  of  me.  I  asked,  "What  is  this  war  about,  the  fear 
that  the  Russians  and  Persians  will  drive  us  into  the  sea?" 
Colonel  Dennie  answered,  "  The  Government  must  have  most 
powerful  reasons,  of  which  we  are  ignorant ;  it  is  absurd  to 
suppose  that  can  be  the  reason  of  the  war  ;  why  send  us  there  ? 
let  them  fag  themselves  out  by  coining  to  us  ;  we  shall  get  there 
easily  enough,  but  how  shall  we  return  ?  We  may  be  cut  up 
to  a  man."  His  companion  agreed  with  him,  and  this  was  the 
general  opinion  of  the  military  men  of  my  acquaintance.  The 
old  16th  marched  from  Meerut  on  the  30th  October.  Never 
was  there  a  finer  body  of  men  under  the  sun.  Their  route  is 
marked  out  across  a  desert,  where  all  the  water  they  will  get  for 
man  or  beast  for  three  days  they  must  carry  with  them  in 
skins.  Why  they  have  been  ordered  on  such  a  route  the  secret 
and  political  department  alone  can  tell — the  men  ask  if  it  be  to 
take  the  shine  out  of  them :  there  is  another  road,  said  to  be  good, 
therefore  it  is  difficult  to  understand  the  motive  of  taking  them 
across  the  desert  to  Shikarpore. 

My  boats  being  ready  at  Ghurmuktesur  Ghat,  I  started  diik 
to  join  them ;  on  my  arrival  a  fine  breeze  was  blowing,  a  number 
of  vessels  of  every  description  were  at  anchor ;  the  scene  was 
picturesque,  and  my  people  were  all  ready  and  willing  to  start. 
Messrs.  Gibsonand  Co.  of  Meerut  have  furnished  me  with  two  large 
flat-bottomed  country  boats,  on  each  of  which  a  house  is  built  of 
bamboo  and  mats,  which  is  well  thatched ;  the  interior  of  the 
one  in  which  I  live  is  divided  into  two  large  rooms,  and  has  two 
bathing-rooms ;  the  floor  is  of  planks,  covered  with  a  gaily- 
coloured  sutrnengi,  a  cotton  carpet ;  and  the  inside  is  fitted  up 
with  white  cloth — sometimes  the  rooms  are  fitted  up  with  the 


282  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

coloured  chintz  used  for  tents.  The  other  large  boat  contains 
the  servants,  the  horses,  and  the  dogs.  The  sort  of  boat  gene- 
rally used  for  this  purpose  is  called  a  surri,  which  is  a  pateli 
that  draws  very  little  water,  and  is  generally  rowed  from  the 
top  of  the  platform  above  the  roof,  on  which  the  dandls  live. 

23rd. — Started  from  Ghurmuktesur  Ghat  the  moment  it 
became  possible  to  see  the  way  down  the  river,  and  to  avoid  the 
sandbanks.  At  3  p.m.  the  thermometer  was  82°, — a  most  op- 
pressive heat  for  one  just  arrived  from  the  Hills.  Lugaoed  on 
a  sandbank,  and  walked  with  the  dogs  until  ten  at  night,  when  I 
went  to  rest  and  dreamed  of  thieves,  because  this  part  of  the 
Ganges  is  dangerous,  and  I  have  no  guard  on  board  the  boats. 
From  a  fisherman  on  the  bank  I  have  purchased  fish  enough 
for  myself  and  all  the  crew,  a  feast  for  us  all,  and  a  piece  of  good 
luck. 

Taking  a  walk  with  the  dogs  puts  me  in  mind  of  the  kennel 
I  had  in  the  Hills,  and  of  Khobarah,  the  magnificent  dog  of  the 
Himalaya,  of  whom  his  former  master  told  me  this  anecdote : — • 
"  Sitting  one  night  in  my  tent,  the  dog  at  my  feet,  a  bearer,  in 
a  state  of  intoxication,  entered  and  spoke  to  me ;  the  voice  of 
the  drunken  man  was  loud  and  angry :  the  dog  seized  him 
instantly  by  the  throat,  bore  him  to  the  ground,  and  held  him 
there.  He  did  not  injure  the  man :  it  being  night,  I  suppose 
the  creature  thought  me  menaced  with  danger.  He  quitted  him 
the  instant  I  bade  him  do  so." 

I  gave  this  dog  on  quitting  the  Hills  to  a  relative,  desiring 
him  to  chain  him  up  until  he  had  made  his  acquaintance  and 
ensured  his  friendship.  My  relative  came  to  me  a  week  after- 
wards highly  amused,  and  said, — "  The  moment  your  dog  was 
unchained  he  took  possession  of  the  verandah  of  my  house. 
He  is  walking  up  and  down  lashing  himself  into  fury ;  he  keeps 
us  all  at  bay,  and  I  cannot  enter  the  house  ;  perhaps  when  he  sees 
you  he  will  become  more  composed,  and  allow  me  to  go  in  to 
"breakfast." 

In  1844,  Khobarah,  the  Hill  dog,  was  still  in  prime  health, 
taking  care  of  the  cows  at  night  at  Cloud  End,  near  Landowr. 
The  fate  of  my  dog  Sancho  was  pitiable  :  he  was  in  the  Hills 


KNOCKED    OVER    BY    A    BUFFALO.  283 

with  a  small  spaniel  I  had  given  my  relative, — a  sharp  cry  from 
the  dog  brought  the  gentleman  to  the  door ;  a  short  distance 
from  the  house  he  saw  the  spaniel  in  the  mouth  of  a  leopard, 
who  carried  him  down  the  khud.  Sancho  was  on  the  ground, 
having  had  his  side  cut  open  by  a  blow  from  the  paw  of  the 
wild  beast ;  the  poor  dog  crawled  to  the  feet  of  my  friend,  he 
took  him  up,  and  tried  in  vain  to  save  his  life — poor  Sancho 
died. 

A  fine  litter  of  spaniel  pups  once  placed  me  in  a  dilemma  :  a 
friend  thus  settled  the  point.  "It  is  as  much  a  duty  to  cut  a 
dog's  tail  according  to  his  caste,  as  it  is  to  have  drawn  the 
superfluous  teeth  of  a  young  Christian.  This  answer  to  the 
question  respecting  the  tails  of  the  young  pups  must  be  sent  at 
once,  lest  time  and  the  habit  of  wearing  a  whole  tail  should 
attach  them,  the  pups,  too  strongly  to  the  final  three-quarters  of 
an  inch,  which  I  think  they  should  lose :  the  object  with  a 
spaniel  is  not  so  much  to  reduce  the  length  as  to  obviate  the 
thin  and  fish-hooky  appearance  of  the  natural  tail.  There  is  no 
cause  to  mourn  such  severe  kindness  to  these  pups ;  grieve  not 
for  them !  theirs  is  an  age  when  pain  passes  with  the  moment  of 
infliction,  and  if,  as  some  crying  philosopher  has  observed,  '  We 
know  no  pleasure  equal  to  a  sudden  relief  from  pain, '  the  cutting 
and  firing  will  be  all  for  the  good  of  the  little  dogs."  The  price 
of  a  gunth  is  from  sixty  to  a  hundred  rupees  :  a  good  Almorah 
gunth  will  fetch  a  hundred  and  sixty,  or  a  fancy  price  of  three 
hundred  rupees.  The  common  gunths  are  used  for  fetching 
water  from  the  khuds,  but  such  is  the  dangerous  nature  of 
the  mountain  paths  they  descend,  they  are  often  killed  by  a  fall 
over  a  precipice.  The  only  animals  fit  for  such  work  are  mules, 
which  may  be  bought  at  the  Hurdwar  fair,  at  a  reasonable  price. 
The  beautiful  gunth  MotI,  whom  I  have  before  mentioned,  was 
sent  on  an  emergency  to  bring  water  from  the  khud  :  he  fell 
over  in  returning  with  the  heavy  water  bags  and  was  smashed  in 
the  khud  below — smashed  !  that  is  not  my  word,  but  picked  up 
in  intercourse  with  men,  and  is  as  shocking  as  a  phrase  I  once 
made  use  of,  "  knocked  over  by  a  buffalo !  " 

This  is  too  technical  and  gentlemanlike  an  expression  ;   in 


284  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

such  cases  one  should  sacrifice  brevity  in  favour  of  the  "  I  hope 
you  may  obtain  it  style,"  {i.  e.  the  feminine  of  "  I  wish  you 
may  get  it,")  and  say,  you  will  be  thrown  down  or  hurt  by  a 
buffalo's  running  against  you.  The  rules  of  female  education, 
both  of  the  governess  and  of  after  life,  prevent  a  lady's  knowing 
whether  such  an  out-of-door  animal  as  a  buffalo  attacks  people 
with  his  head  or  tail,  and  a  lady  should  betray  no  nearer 
acquaintance  with  the  horrible  creature  than  that  implied  in  the 
form  of  speech  above  appointed  for  adoption.  Our  language 
affords  a  table-land  of  communication  between  lady  and  gentle- 
man, where  the  technical  difficulties  on  either  side  the  hill  are 
out  of  sight.  If  the  lady  is  to  speak  of  a  fashion  she  will  leave 
out  scientific  terms,  as  will  the  gentleman  if  he  is  talking  of  a 
race ;  and  I  see  no  objection  to  the  language  of  the  man  and 
woman  being  exactly  similar.  Any  affectation,  such  as  extreme 
delicacy  and  timidity,  is  vulgar,  and  suited  to  novel-reading  ladies' 
maids  and  milliners'  apprentices.  Every  term  or  word  turned 
from  its  common  and  general  meaning  to  a  particular  meaning, 
is  what  I  consider  technical.  Such  are  not  only  words  employed 
in  any  art  or  science  in  a  sense  differing  from  their  common 
acceptation,  but,  also,  such  words  used  in  an  uncommon  sense 
by  a  particular  set  of  people,  schoolboys,  or  fashionables.  To 
"  cut  over  wnth  a  stone"  is  a  school  expression,  which  of  course 
cannot  be  referred  to  the  general  meaning  of  the  words.  Any 
thing  being  in  good  or  bad  taste  is  a  technicality  of  good  society. 
Some  expressions  of  this  nature,  when  original,  are  rather  to  be 
considered  as  bon-mots.  Such  as  Sydney  Smith's  saying  that  a 
clergyman  next  him  at  dinner  had  a  ten-parson  power  of  boring. 
To  make  use  of  French  words,  unless  cleverly  selected,  comes 
under  my  ban,  but  the  practice  of  good  society  is  against  me,  I 
believe,  in  this.  A  schoolboy's  word  like  that  of  "  being 
knocked  over,"  can  be  used  with  very  good  effect  in  fun.  A 
lady  may  talk  to  a  man  of  having  a  lark,  or  use  any  such  word, 
'  — but  it  must  not  be  used  as  her  own  word,  but  as  if  she  were  to 
say,  "  as  you  would  call  it."  I  will  give  the  rest  of  this  essay 
another  time,  for  fear  of  knocking  over  the  patience  of  the  dear 
ones  around  the  hearth  of  my  childhood's  home. 


FATHIGARH.  285 

25th. — A  fine  breeze — the  horse  boat  has  just  passed  along- 
side— one  of  the  horses  looked  out  of  the  window  and  neighed 
loudly.  I  like  to  hear  a  horse  neigh :  poor  boy,  he  would 
sooner  be  galloping  with  me  on  his  back  over  the  green  sward 
of  the  race-course,  than  be  cabined,  cribbed,  confined,  in  the 
boat ;  nevertheless,  both  the  horses  eat,  drink,  and  lie  down 
to  sleep  like  old  soldiers. 

Another  burning  day.  How  good  my  health  must  be  to 
stand  such  heat  without  much  inconvenience !  The  constant 
confinement  to  a  boat  is  very  irksome  and  disagreeable ;  and 
this  life  of  quietude  after  so  much  exercise  is  enough  to  make 
me  ill.  Would  that  I  were  once  more  enjoying  the  morning 
breeze,  cantering  against  it  !  The  early  breeze  on  the  river  is 
damp  and  unwholesome,  therefore  I  remain  idly  on  my  charpai 
until  half-past  7  a.m.  The  banks  are  low  and  ugly,  the  river 
broad  and  shallow,  and  fiill  of  great  sandbanks,  between  which 
we  glide. 

There  is  little  on  this  part  of  the  river  to  afford  amusement ; 
here  and  there  a  flock  of  wild  birds  rises  from  the  sands,  and 
alligators  basking  in  the  sun  have  the  appearance  of  logs  of 
wood. 

26th. — ^To-day  we  have  reached   the   district  in   charge   of 

Mr.  H S ,  and  the  head  man  of  the  village  off  which 

we  have  moored,  has  come  on  board  to  offer  his  services  in  pro- 
curing watchmen  for  the  night,  food  for  the  horses,  &c.  All 
the  way  down  we  have  lugaoed  on  sandbanks  in  wild  out-of-the- 
way  spots :  how  pleasant  it  is  to  have  quitted  the  jangal !  In 
this  district  I  feel  at  home,  and  chaukidars  have  come  to  guard 
the  boats. 

27th. — Arrived  at  Fathigarh,  and  drove  to  the  house  of  my 
relative  ;  the  grounds  were  just  as  beautiful,  as  full  of  flowers 
and  flowering  trees,  and  just  as  fresh  as  ever ;  the  house  cool 
and  pleasant.  On  my  return  to  my  boat  in  the  evening,  I 
found  the  heat  excessive,  which,  added  to  the  bites  of  the 
musquitoes,  kept  me  awake  until  4  a.m.,  at  which  time  the 
washermen  came  down  to  the  river-side  and  made  a  great  noise  ; 
their  method  of  washing  is  to  dip  a  garment  into  the  water. 


286  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

then  to  lay  it  on  a  piece  of  flat  board  and  soap  it,  after  which 
they  whirl  the  garment  above  their  heads,  and  down  it  comes 
on  the  flat  board  with  a  loud  sound,  to  which  is  added  a  most 
peculiar  noise,  like  a  pavior's  grunt,  given  by  the  dhobis,  when 
the  garment  strikes  the  board,  as  if  the  exertion  exhausted  them  ; 
this  whirhng  and  beating  is  continued  for  a  short  time,  when  the 
clothes  are  taken  to  the  man's  house,  put  over  a  most  simple 
steam  apparatus,  which  completely  cleans  them,  after  which 
they  are  rinsed,  dryed,  and  ironed. 

2dth. — Quitted  the  Fort  Ghat ;  after  a  good  run  of  forty 
miles  anchored  at  Kanauj,  where  the  people  cooked  and  ate 
their  dinners ;  after  which  we  cast  the  boats  oflf  into  the  middle 
of  the  stream,  allowing  them  to  float  down  just  at  the  pleasure 
of  the  current,  whilst  the  people  slept ;  but  their  slumbers  were 
occasionally  disturbed  by  the  boat  running  aground  on  a  sand- 
bank or  on  shore,  when  they  were  roused  up  to  get  her  off 
again. 

3\st. — Reached  Bitoor  at  breakfast  time;  a  large  fair  was 
being  held  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Here  we  nearly  lost  the 
horse-boat ;  a  strong  wind  carried  the  boats  against  a  high  bank, 
which  was  falling  in  every  second ;  just  as  the  horse-boat  ran 
foul  of  it  the  bank  fell  in ;  the  chaprasi  on  deck  cut  the  towing- 
line  with  his  sword,  and  the  boat  swerved  off  from  the  bank  ; 
she  was  filled  with  earth,  and  all  but  swamped.  The  horses, 
feeUng  the  violent  rocking  of  the  vessel,  neighed  loudly  several 
times,  as  if  conscious  of  danger,  and  willing  to  remind  us  of 
their  existence.  The  boat  righted,  and  was  got  off  with  some 
difiiculty. 

On  our  arrival  at  Cawnpore  we  were  detained  by  the  bridge 
of  boats,  which  was  closed,  and  would  not  be  opened  until  noon 
the  next  day. 

Nov.  1st. — Rose  early,  and  went  on  shore  to  buy  two  toon- 
wood  trees,  and  one  of  sal.  It  is  nearly  noon ;  I  wish  the 
•  bridge  of  boats  would  open,  and  let  us  pass  through  ;  waiting  on 
this  hot  sandbank  is  very  tiresome,  and  the  wind  is  favourable. 
I  have  had  much  plague  with  the  miinjhl  of  the  horse-boat ; 
n'importe, — a  lonely  pilgrim  must  expect  a  little  annoyance  on  the 


DEISM POINTS    OF    FAITH.  287 

road  at  times.  At  noon  the  bridge  opened,  and  we  passed  through  ; 
anchored  on  the  other  side,  to  get  the  timber  trees  off  the  bank 
into  the  river.  The  sal  tree,  very  heavy  wood,  twenty-two  cubits 
in  length,  and  two  feet  six  inches  in  diameter,  was  lying  on  a 
high  pile  of  trees  ;  with  the  greatest  difficulty  it  was  moved,  it  was 
so  wedged  in  amongst  the  rest ;  about  twenty  men  were  in  the 
river  below  the  tree,  pulUng  at  a  rope  fixed  to  a  beam  as  a  lever  ; 
all  of  a  sudden  the  tree  got  loose,  and  down  it  thundered,  rolling 
over  on  its  side  into  the  river  below.  I  am  not  a  coward,  but 
when  I  saw  what  appeared  inevitable  death  to  five  or  six  of  my 
own  men,  I  covered  my  eyes  with  my  hands,  expecting  to  see  them 
crushed  to  death,  and  lying  under  the  tree  in  the  water ;  how- 
ever, the  cry  of  "By  the  blessing  of  God  and  the  mem  Sahiba's 
good  luck  they  have  escaped,"  was  indeed  welcome :  they  had 
all  sprung  aside  quick  as  lightning,  and  not  a  man  was  hurt.  We 
then  proceeded  down  the  river,  taking  our  sal  tree,  lashed  to  the 
side  of  my  boat,  which  made  her  all  on  one  side ;  therefore  I 
purchased  two  toon-wood  trees  at  another  timber-yard,  and  lashed 
them  on  the  other  side,  which  righted  the  boat,  the  toon 
being  hghter  wood  than  the  sal :  by  the  time  this  was  over  it 
was  8  P.M.  I  paid  the  men  well  who  had  worked  so  hard,  and 
gave  the  crews  of  both  boats  sweetmeats  enough  to  last  for  four 
days ;  all  were  in  good  humour,  and  I  sought  my  couch  com- 
pletely fagged.  But  sleep  was  driven  away  by  the  musquitoes  ; 
I  killed  hundreds  of  the  vile  tormentors.  Every  night  we  drift 
down  with  the  stream  after  the  people  have  had  their  food  on 
shore. 

4th. — On  the  top  of  the  thatch  of  the  house  which  is  built  on 
my  boat,  is  a  platform  on  which  the  people  sit ;  when  the  wind 
is  in  a  particular  direction  all  that  is  said  above  is  plainly  heard 
in  the  cabin  below.  A  most  theological  discourse  has  amused  me 
for  the  last  hour  carried  on  between  my  khidmatgar,  one  of  the 
Faithful,  and  a  staunch  Hindu,  one  of  my  chaprasis.  The 
question  under  consideration  was,  whether  God  made  Hindus  or 
Musalmans  first ;  and  whether  you  ought  to  say  "  By  the 
blessing  of  Allah,"  or  "By  the  blessing  of  Vishnu."  These 
points  the  Musalman  undertook  to  explain.     The  questions  of 


288  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

the  Hindu  were  simple,  but  most  puzzling ;  nor  could  the  man 
refrain  from  a  laugh  now  and  then,  when  some  curious  point  of 
faith  was  explained  to  him  by  the  follower  of  the  prophet.  It 
ended  by  the  khidmatgiir  saying,  "  If  you  do  not  believe  in 
Allah  and  the  kuran,  they  will  take  you  by  that  Hindu  top-knot 
of  yours,  hold  you  by  it  whilst  they  fill  your  mouth  with  fire, 
and  pitch  you  to  Jahannam."  1  laughed, — the  people  heard 
me,  and  being  aware  that  their  conversation  was  overheard, 
dropped  the  subject.  The  follower  of  Muhammad  worked  so 
hard  and  so  earnestly  to  gain  a  convert,  it  was  unfortunate  his 
opponent  should  have  been  so  utterly  incapable  of  understanding 
what  he  considered  the  true  faith. 

The  Musalmans  are  anxious  for  converts ;  the  Hindus  will 
neither  make  proselytes,  nor  be  converted  themselves.  Deism 
is  the  religion  of  well-educated  Hindus,  they  leave  idolatry  to 
the  lower  orders.  When  conversing  with  a  lady  one  evening, 
the  priest's  bell  was  heard ;  she  said,  "  I  must  attend, — will  you 
come  with  me?"  Accordingly  we  entered  the  small  room 
which  contained  the  idols;  they  were  Hghted  up,  and  the 
Brahmans  in  attendance.  The  worship  proceeded  :  I  said  to  the 
lady,  "Is  it  possible  that  you  can  believe  in  the  power  of  brazen 
images,  the  work  of  men's  hands  ?"  She  answered,  "  I  believe  in 
one  great  and  eternal  God  ;  as  for  these  images,  it  is  the  custom 
of  the  country  to  worship  them ;  the  lower  orders  believe  in 
their  power."  "  Why  do  you  attend  suchpooja  ?"  said  I.  She 
looked  at  the  Brahmans  as  if  she  feared  our  conversation  might 
be  overheard,  and  answered,  "  Their  power  is  great ;  if  I  were 

not  to  appear  it  would  soon  be  over ;  they "  she  ceased 

speaking,  and  drew  her  forefinger  across  her  throat  with  a 
significant  gesture.  The  conversation  dropped  ;  and  I  observed 
the  Brahmans  "  cast  camel's  glances '  "  both  on  her  and  me. 

The  clergyman  at  Allahabad  converted  a  Hindii  to  the 
Christian  faith  ;  consequently,  the  man  became  an  outcast, — he 
could  neither  eat,  drink,  nor  smoke  with  his  own  family ;  he 
complained  to  the  clergj'^man,  and  was  taken  into  service.     His 

'  Oriental  Proverbs  and  Sayings,  No.  129. 


SNEEZING    AN    ILL    OMEN.  289 

attendance  at  church  was  constant.  His  patron  died  :  the  man 
was  never  seen  afterwards  at  Divine  Service.  The  newly 
appointed  clergyman  inquired  the  reason,  and  this  answer  was 
returned  : — "  I  received  eight  rupees  a  month  from  your  prede- 
cessor ;  if  you  will  give  me  the  same  I  will  go  to  church  every 
Sunday ! " — So  little  did  the  man  comprehend  his  adopted 
religion,  or  the  kindness  that  induced  the  Clergyman  to  support 
him  ! 

Passed  Manucpur  with  a  fine  breeze  and  a  powerful  stream  in 
our  favour  ;  lugaoed  below  Kurrah,  where  the  people  cooked  on 
shore,  and  as  soon  as  the  moon  was  high  we  turned  the  boat 
into  the  current,  and  allowed  her  to  drift ;  the  helmsman  ties 
the  rudder  up  in  the  centre,  and  usually  lies  down  to  sleep  by 
its  side ;  if  the  vessel  run  ashore,  he  starts  up,  and  marvels  at 
the  occurrence.  We  drifted  the  whole  night  by  moonlight ;  at 
one  time  I  told  them  to  anchor,  but  the  bank  kept  falling  in  in 
so  fearful  a  manner  we  were  obliged  to  put  otF  again. 

Just  as  we  came  to  the  bank  to  lugao  the  men  suddenly 
shoved  the  boat  back  into  the  stream,  saying,  "  Some  one  has 
sneezed,  we  cannot  anchor  here  at  present."  A  few  moments 
afterwards  they  anchored.  They  are  superstitious  respecting  a 
sneeze,  and  by  waiting  for  a  short  time  fancy  the  evil  influence 
passes  away.  "  After  sneezing  you  may  eat  or  bathe,  but  not 
go  into  any  one's  house ' :"  because  it  is  considered  an  omen  of 
ill  luck. 

A  fair  breeze  is  springing  up ;  we  are  near  home,  and  they 
will  be  looking  for  the  return  of  the  wanderer.  We  are  off 
Papamhow ;  the  river  is  very  shallow  and  very  broad.  We  passed 
the  ghat,  and  moored  while  the  people  ate  their  dinners.  I 
would  have  proceeded  by  moonlight,  but  was  deterred  from 
doing  so  by  the  advice  of  the  fishermen  on  the  banks,  who  said 
it  would  be  very  dangerous  then  to  go  on,  as  the  stream  was 
very  fierce  and  shallow  below. 

6th. — Arrived  at  Raj-ghat,  at  which  place  the  carriage  was 
waiting  for  me ;  but  I  found  it  impossible  to  reach  the  ghat,  the 

'  Oriental  Proverbs  and  Sayings,  No.  130. 
VOL.  II.  U 


290  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILORIM. 

force  of  the  current  drove  us  off ;  therefore,  taking  the  crew  of 
the  horse-boat  to  aid  our  own,  we  dropped  down  into  the  Jumna 
below  the  Fort ;  in  doing  this,  we  ran  against  another  vessel, 
and  did  our  own  some  damage.  At  this  moment  we  are  making 
our  way  slowly  and  with  difficulty  up  the  stream  against  the 
current  of  the  Jumna,  just  below  the  Fort  ;  the  view  is  inter- 
esting, and  the  pilgrim  will  reach  the  landing-place,  below  her 
own  old  peepul-tree,  within  an  hour.  I  have  at  this  moment 
but  little  energy  left  wherewith  to  pursue  my  homeward  voyage, 
but  my  promise  is  yours,  my  beloved  mother,  and  your  child 
would  not  disappoint  you  for  all  the  wealth  of  Ormus  or  of  Ind. 
She  who  ventures  on  the  waters  must  take  patience,  and  await 
the  good  pleasure  of  the  wind  and  tides  ;  but  there  is  the  Fort 
and  the  great  Masjid,  and  the  old  peepul-tree,  and  the  mem 
siihiba's  home,  and  the  chabutara '  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
which  is  crowded  with  friends  on  the  look  out  for  the  pilgrim, 
and  ready  to  hail  her  return  with  the  greatest  pleasure. 

'  A  terrace  to  sit  and  converse  on. 


CHAPTER    LVIIT. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ALLAHABAD— THE  THREE  WISHES. 

Arrival  at  Allahabad — Visit  to  the  Mahratta  Camp — The  Three  Wishes — The 
Ticca  Wife — The  Farewell  of  Her  Highness  the  Baiza  Ba'i — How  to  dispose 
of  a  Wife— The  Bundelas- Price  of  Children— The  Pillar  in  the  Fort- 
Voyage  down  the  River — Arwari  Fish — A  Lady  Overboard — An  Accident — 
The  Sita  Khiind — The  Army  of  the  Indus — Meetingof  the  Governor-General 
and  Runjeet  Singh — The  Camel  Battery — Lord  Auckland's  Visit  to  Runjeet's 
Camp — The  Koh-i-Nur — The  Rajput  Tray — A  Pahari  Dress — The  Ayha's 
Stratagem — An  Escape  on  the  River — Natives  afraid  of  Cadets — The  Pan- 
chayat — Fear  of  Poison — Berhampiir — The  Nawab,  the  Merchant,  and  the 
Palki — Quitted  Berhampur. 

1838,  Nov. — On  my  first  arrival  at  Allahabad  I  thought  I 
should  never  get  through  all  the  arrangements  necessary  before 
my  departure  for  England ;  so  many  farewell  visits  were  to  be 
paid  to  my  old  friends,  and  so  many  preparations  were  to  be 
made  for  the  voyage.  Her  Highness  the  Baiza  Bii'I  was  still  at 
Allahabad,  and  she  sent  for  me.  One  of  the  Italian  greyhounds 
given  me  by  Captain  Osborne  having  died,  I  took  the  other  two, 
and  presented  them  to  the  Gaja  Raja  Sahib,  the  young  princess 
having  expressed  a  wish  to  have  one :  I  gave  her  also  a  black 
terrier,  and  one  of  King  Charles's  spaniels. 

One  day  a  Mahratta  lady  came  to  my  house,  riding,  en  cavalier, 
on  a  camel,  which  she  managed  apparently  with  the  greatest 
ease ;  she  told  me  her  Highness  requested  I  would  call  imme- 
diately upon  her.  On  my  arrival  in  camp,  after  the  ceremony 
of  meeting  had  passed,  the  Baiza  Ba'I  said,  "  You  are  going  to 

u  2 


292  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM. 

England, — will  you  procure  for  me  three  things  ?  The  first  is, 
a  perfectly  high  caste  Arabian  mare ;  secondly,  a  very,  very 
little  dog,  just  like  a  ball,  covered  with  long  hair,  perfectly 
white,  and  having  red  eyes  ;  and  thirdly,  a  mechanical  figure, 
that,  standing  on  a  slack  rope,  with  a  pole  in  its  hand,  balances 
itself,  and  moves  in  time  to  the  music  that  plays  below  it." 

I  thought  of  the  fairy  tales,  in  which  people  are  sent  to  roam 
the  world  in  search  of  marvellous  curiosities,  and  found  myself 
as  much  perplexed  as  was  ever  knight  of  old  by  the  commands 
of  a  fairy.  The  Ba'I  added,  "  You  know  a  good  Arab,  I  can 
trust  your  judgment  in  the  selection  ;  the  little  dogs,  they  say, 
come  from  Bombay  :  you  can  bring  them  all  with  you  in  the 
ship  on  your  return." 

I  informed  her  Highness  that  very  few  Arabs  were  in  England ; 
that  in  her  Majesty's  stud  there  were  some,  presents  from  Eastern 
Princes,  who  were  not  likely  to  part  with  the  apple  of  their 
eyes  :  that  I  did  not  think  an  Arab  mare  was  to  be  had  in  the 
country.  With  respect  to  the  little  powder-pufF  dog  with  the 
red  eyes,  I  would  make  enquiries :  and  the  mechanical  figure 
could  be  procured  from  Paris. 

A  few  days  after  this  visit  one  of  her  ladies  called  on  me,  and 
the  following  conversation  ensued  : — 

Mahratta  Lady — "  You  are  going  to  England, — you  will  be 
absent  eighteen  months  or  two  years, — have  you  arranged  all 
your  household  affairs  ?  You  know  how  much  interest  I  take  in 
your  welfare  ;  I  hope  you  have  made  proper  arrangements." 

I  assured  her  I  had. 

"  Yes,  yes,  with  respect  to  the  household,  that  is  all  very  well ; 
but  with  respect  to  your  husband,  what  arrangement  have 
you  made  ?  It  is  the  custom  with  us  Mahrattas,  if  a  wife 
quit  her  husband,  for  her  to  select  and  depute  another  lady  to 
remain  with  him  during  her  absence ; — have  you  selected  such 
a  one?" 

"  No,"  said  I,  with  the  utmost  gravity  ;  "  such  an  arrangement 
never  occurred  to  me  ; — will  you  do  me  the  honour  to  supply  my 
place?" 

She  laughed  and  shook  her  head.     "  I  suppose  you  English 


THE    FAREWELL    OF    HER    HIGHNESS    THE    BAIZA    Ba'i.         293 

ladies  would  only  select  one  wife ;  a  Mahratta  would  select  two 
to  remain  with  her  husband  during  her  absence." 

I  explained  to  her  the  opinions  of  the  English  on  such 
subjects :  our  ideas  appeared  as  strange  to  her  as  hers  were  to 
ine ;  and  she  expressed  herself  grieved  that  I  should  omit  what 
they  considered  a  duty. 

Ilth. — I  called  on  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior,  and  took  leave 
in  all  due  form ;  the  dear  old  lady  was  very  sorry  to  part  with 
me, — the  tears  ran  down  her  cheeks,  and  she  embraced  me  over 
and  over  again.  I  was  sincerely  grieved  to  part  with  her 
Highness,  with  whom  and  in  whose  camp  I  had  passed  so  many 
happy  hours,  amused  with  beholding  native  life  and  customs, 
and  witnessing  their  religious  ceremonies.  The  next  day  she 
sent  me  the  complimentary  farewell  dinner,  which  it  is  the 
custom  to  present  to  a  friend  on  departure  :  I  partook  of  some 
of  the  Mahratta  dishes,  in  which,  to  suit  my  taste,  they  had 
omitted  musk  or  assafcetida  ;  the  cookery  was  good  ;  pan,  atr, 
and  rose-water,  as  usual,  ended  the  ceremony. 

Those  ladies  who  are  kind  enough  to  support  and  educate  the 
orphan  children  of  natives,  are  startled  at  times  by  curious 
occurrences.  A  lady  at  this  station  lately  married  one  of  her 
orphans  to  a  drummer  in  the  72nd  regiment,  and  gave  twenty 
rupees  as  a  portion ;  the  man  was  drunk  for  about  a  week  ;  in  a 
fortnight  he  made  over  his  wife  to  another  drummer,  and  in  a 
month  came  to  the  lady,  saying,  "  If  you  please.  Ma'am,  I  should 
like  to  marry  again."  "  Why,  John  Strong,  you  were  married 
a  few  days  ago!"  "Yes,  Ma'am,  but  I  made  over  she  to  my 
comrade."  Imagine  the  lady's  amazement  and  horror  !  The 
man  John  Strong  went  away,  and  told  his  officers  he  thought 
he  had  been  very  ill-used.  The  man  was  a  half-caste  Christian, 
the  girl  a  converted  native. 

The  famine  in  the  north-western  provinces  has  been  occasioned 
by  the  almost  entire  failure  of  the  usual  rains.  Government 
has  done  much  in  giving  employment  to  those  who  can  work, 
and  food  and  medical  aid  to  the  sick  ;  and  more  than  a  lakh  of 
rupees  has  already  been  raised  by  private  subscription  on  our 
side  of  India,  and  they  are  subscribing  for  the  same  purpose 


294  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

very  liberally  in  the  Bombay  Presidency.  Allahabad  luckily  has 
escaped,  but  every  sort  of  grain  is  very  dear,  and  large  farm- 
yards like  ours  are  somewhat  costly.  During  the  time  of  the 
famine  the  natives  sold  their  children  in  order  to  save  their 
lives ;  and  large  numbers  of  the  unfortunate  Bundelas,  the 
natives  of  Biindel-khand,  arrived  at  Allahabad,  famished  and 
djdng ;  subscriptions  were  raised,  and  the  poor  wretches  were 
supported  by  charity.  A  most  excellent  and  religious  lady  at 
the  station  proposed  sending  to  the  up-country,  where  the 
famine  raged  the  most  severely,  and  purchasing  ten  young  girls ; 
these  girls  she  undertook  to  bring  up  in  the  Christian  religion, 
to  teach  them  reading,  writing,  and  needlework,  and  on  their 
attaining  a  suitable  age,  to  put  them  into  service  as  ayahs  to 
European  ladies.  The  ladies  at  the  station  entered  into  her 
plans,  and  I  agreed  to  buy  and  support  two  girls  as  my  share. 
A  calculation  was  then  entered  into  as  to  the  expense  that  would 
be  incurred;  I  told  her,  "The  other  day,  a  Biindela  woman 
came  to  my  door  with  twins  in  a  basket,  which  she  offered  for 
sale  for  two  rupees !  I  was  greatly  surprised  ;  the  little  naked 
creatures  sprawling  in  the  basket  were  in  good  condition,  but 
their  mother  was  a  skeleton.  '  Two  rupees  !'  said  I,  '  that  is  a 
high  price  ;  I  will  give  you  one  rupee  for  the  twins,  if  you  give 
me  the  basket  into  the  bargain.'  The  poor  woman,  delighted 
at  having  found  a  purchaser  on  any  terms,  laid  her  children  at 
my  feet,  and  making  many  salams,  thanked  me  for  having  saved 
them  from  death.  I  took  them  into  the  room  where  my 
husband  was  sitting,  and  laid  them  on  the  table  as  a  present  for 
him  :  he  laughed,  and  gave  me  some  money  for  the  woman.  I 
returned  the  twins,  and  sent  her  to  the  place  where  the  Bundelas 
are  supported  by  the  contributions  of  the  station." 

Having  heard  this  history,  my  friend  wrote  to  a  clergyman  up 
the  country,  who  purchased  for  us  ten  girls,  all  under  eleven 
years  of  age,  and  sent  them  down  ;  the  market  for  children  was 
looking  up ;  he  charged  us  the  enormous  price  of  ten  rupees 
apiece !  They  were  placed  in  a  comfortable  house,  with  a  school- 
mistress to  instruct  them ;  every  care  was  taken  of  them,  and 
the  ladies  of  the  station  attended  the  school,  and  superintended 


THE    BUNDELAS.  295 

their  morals.  It  certainly  flourished  to  a  very  great  degree ; 
they  studied  the  commandment,  "increase  and  multiply  and 
replenish  the  earth,"  with  so  much  assiduity,  that  in  a  short  time 
all  the  little  girls  were  in  a  fair  way  of  becoming  mammas  ; — a 
circumstance  perfectly  inexplicable,  unless  they  had  eaten  the 
seeds  of  the  peepul-tree : — a  peasant  girl  in  Hampshire  declared 
the  same  effect  was  produced  by  eating  water- cresses.  It  was 
an  annoying  failure,  that  experimental  school  of  ours.  Speaking 
to  an  officer  in  the  1 6th  Lancers,  of  the  care  that  had  been  taken 
of  these  girls,  of  the  religious  instruction  that  had  been  bestowed 
upon  them,  and  the  disheartening  finale  of  our  charitable 
labours,  he  said,  "  In  that  dreadful  famine  hordes  of  wretched 
famished  Bundeliis  flocked  into  Cawnpore,  and  very  liberal 
subscriptions  were  collected  to  feed  them ;  great  numbers, 
however,  perished  from  hunger,  and  mothers  offered  their 
children  for  sale  for  one  rupee  each  :  several  were  bought  by 
very  well-intentioned  persons,  to  be  educated,  and  converted  to 
Christianity.  Some  little  time  after  the  Biindelas  had  disap- 
peared from  the  station,  I  happened  to  be  dining  with  an  old 
friend,  who,  in  the  evening,  asked  if  I  would  accompany  her  in 
her  drive  to  the  bungalow  where  these  children  were  being 
educated  to  form  ladies'  maids,  as  she  had  a  favour  to  ask  of  me, 
that  I  would  that  evening  stand  godfather  to  twenty-two  of 
these  children ;  I  declined  the  honour,  and  some  months  after- 
wards heard  that  these  children  would  shortly  require  godfathers 
and  godmothers  for  their  own  offspring,  should  they  bring  them 
up  as  Christians." 

The  enormous  pillar  now  prostrate  near  the  entrance  gate 
of  the  Fort  at  Allahabad  is  to  be  set  up  on  a  pedestal,  on  an 
ascent  of  steps,  and  surmounted  by  a  lion  couchant.  Colonel 
Edward  Smith  is  entrusted  with  the  performance  of  the  work. 
The  natives  call  it  Bhim  Singh  ki  liit — that  is,  Bhim  Singh's 
walking-stick.  The  hajjdm  (the  barber),  whom  I  consulted  on 
the  subject,  says  he  was  a  great  pahalwdn  (wrestler)  :  further 
I  know  not. 

Seneca  says,  "  It  is  harder  to  judge  and  examine  than  to  take 
opinions  upon  trust ;  and  therefore  the  far  greater  part  of  the 


296  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

world  borrow  from  others  those  wliich  they  entertain  con- 
cerning all  the  affairs  of  life  and  death."  In  the  present  instance, 
like  the  world  in  general,  I  take  my  opinion  of  the  pillar  upon 
trust,  and  firmly  believe  in  all  the  barber  asserts  ;  more  especially, 
as  some  of  the  inscriptions  on  the  lat  are  in  unknown  characters  ; 
those  of  the  mighty  dead,  who  have  disappeared  from  the  earth, 
leaving  records  imperishable  but  incomprehensible.  The  Baiza 
Bil'I  was  very  anxious  to  erect  this  pillar  at  her  own  expense, 
and  I  beUeve  made  the  offer  to  the  Lieutenant-Governor.  She 
also  wished  to  build  a  fine  ghat  at  the  Trivenl,  which,  in  con- 
junction with  the  magnificent  one  she  was  then  building  at 
Benares,  might  have  carried  her  name  to  posterity. 

28th. — My  friend  Mrs.  B and  her  four  children  arrived  ; 

she  is  to  accompany  me  to  Calcutta :  and  a  Manis  has  been 
sent  me  to  add  to  my  collection. 

Dec.  1st. — We  quitted  Allahabad,  and  proceeded  down  the 
river,  calling  on  those  friends  en  passant  of  whom  I  wished  to 
take  leave.  At  Mirzapore  the  head  of  a  ravine  deer  was  given 
me.  Off  Patna  a  quantity  of  arwarl  fish  were  brought  alongside 
for  breakfast ;  they  were  delicious ;  the  remainder  we  had 
smoked  in  shakar  and  chokar — that  is,  coarse  sugar  and  wheat 
bran :  let  no  one  neglect  this  economical  luxury, — the  smoked 
arwarl  are  delicious. 

\7th. — Both  the  boys  being  very  ill  of  fever,  we  hastened  on 

for  medical  assistance.     At  night,  as  Mrs.  B was  quitting  my 

boat  to  go  to  her  own,  passing  down  the  plank,  it  upset,  and  she 
was  thrown  into  the  river ;  it  was  as  deep  as  her  waist ;  the 
night  was  dark,  and  the  stream  strong ;  she  was  saved  by  a 
bearer's  catching  her  gown  as  she  was  sinking;  fortunately 
the  bearer  was  in  attendance,  carrying  a  lantern.  The  rest 
of  the  people  were  on  the  shore  eating  their  dinners,  which 
they  had  just  cooked.  I  called  to  the  dandls  to  assist,  not  a 
man  would  stir ;  they  were  not  six  yards  from  her,  and  saw  her 
fall  into  the  river.  I  reprimanded  them  angrily,  to  which  they 
coolly  answered, — "  We  were  eating  our  dinners,  what  could  we 
do  ?"  Natives  are  apathetic  with  respect  to  all  things,  with  the 
exception  of  rupees  and  khdna-ptnd — that  is,  "  meat  and  drink." 


MEETING  OF  THE  GOVERNOR-GENERAL  AND  RUNJEET  SINGH.       297 

I8th. — To  avoid  the  return  of  the  accident  of  yesterday,  this 
evening  our  vessels  were  lashed  together ;  T  went  to  my  friend's 
boat  to  see  the  poor  boys,  who  were  delirious  ;  on  my  return  I  did 
not  see  that  the  hold  of  my  boat  was  open  ;  the  shadows  deceived 
me  in  the  uncertain  light,  and  meaning  to  jump  from  the  railing 
of  her  vessel  upon  the  deck  of  my  own,  I  took  a  little  spring, 
and  went  straight  down  the  hold :  faUing  sideways  with  my 
waist  across  a  beam,  the  breath  was  beaten  out  of  my  body  for  a 
moment,  and  there  I  hung  like  the  sign  of  the  golden  fleece. 
The  people  came  to  my  assistance,  and  brought  me  up  again ; 
it  was  fortunate  the  beam  stopped  my  further  descent.  I  was 
bathed  with  hot  water,  and  well  rubbed  with  deodar  oil,  which 
took  off  the  pain  and  stiffhess  very  effectually. 

19th. — Anchored  at  Monghir;  sent  to  the  Sita  Khund,  and 
bottled  off"  a  quantity  of  water  for  use  on  board  ship ;  it  keeps 
good  for  ever,  that  bright,  beautiful,  sparkling  water  from  Sitii's 
well ;  we  had  the  precaution  to  bring  corks  with  us. 

The  interview  between  Runjeet  Singh  and  the  Governor- 
General  has  taken  place, — it  must  have  been  a  fine  sight  ; 
had  I  not  been  going  to  England  I  would  have  seen  the 
meeting.  Miss  Eden  presented  Runjeet  Singh  with  a  picture 
of  the  Queen,  painted  by  herself. 

Extract  from  a  letter  dated  December  3rd,  1838. 

"  I  will  endeavour  to  give  you  some  idea  of  what  is  going 
forward  in  the  grand  army  of  the  Indus.  The  day  after  our 
arrival  Lord  Auckland  held  a  durbar,  at  which  Runjeet  Singh 
paid  his  visit ;  my  squadron  was  on  escort  duty,  so  that  I  saw 
nothing,  and  was  nearly  crushed  by  the  line  of  elephants.  I 
heard  two  guns  were  drawn  up  in  one  of  the  tents  to  be  pre- 
sented to  the  Maharaj ;  between  them  shrapnell  shot  were  piled 
60  awkwardly,  that  Sir  Henry  and  Runjeet  stumbled  over  them, 
and  very  nearly  pitched  on  their  noses,  and  this  will  doubtless 
be  considered  a  bad  omen.  On  the  30th  Lord  Auckland 
returned  the  visit ;  our  Regiment  and  the  2nd  Cavalry  formed  the 
escort :  we  crossed  the  Sutlej  over  a  bridge  of  boats  to  the  Seik 
encampment,  where  40,000  men  are  collected.     The  disposition 


298  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

of  Runjeet's  troops  was  most  judicious  ;  the  road  was  first  lined 
with  his  regular  cavalry,  tall  men,  but  miserably  mounted ;  these 
were  all  dressed  in  scarlet,  and  looked  tawdry  and  ridiculous  :  at 
the  termination  of  this  line  of  cavalry,  which  extended  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  was  a  sandbank  sufficiently  high  to  obstruct 
all  further  view,  except  of  the  Zamburuks,  who  were  placed  on 
the  elevation,  and  fired  a  salute  from  their  camels  as  the  Go- 
vernor-General passed.  Having  ascended  the  bank,  the  view 
was  indeed  magnificent,  and  I  question  if  such  a  pageant  has 
been  seen  since  the  decline  of  the  Moguls.  The  road  was  now 
lined  with  infantry  to  the  arch  leading  to  Runjeet's  tents,  and 
before  which  the  Maharaj's  line  of  elephants  was  drawn  up 
magnificently  caparisoned.  The  infantry  were  dressed  in  scarlet, 
with  red  turbans,  three  deep  on  one  side,  and  two  deep  on  the 
other :  these  are  the  tallest  body  of  men  I  ever  saw.  I  think 
in  the  front  rank  there  could  not  have  been  a  man  under  six 
feet,  and  several  must  have  been  four  and  six  inches  higher ; 
some  of  the  standard-bearers  were  perfect  giants  in  height,  the 
officers  were  superbly  dressed,  and  I  saw  more  than  one  wearing 
pearl  epaulets.  Only  think  of  that ;  for  the  life  of  me  I  could 
not  help  wishing  to  let  the  right  squadron  amongst  them  for 
one  little  half  hour.  In  the  centre  of  this  line  of  infantry, 
extending  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the  Governor- General 
and  Runjeet  met,  and,  after  embracing,  proceeded  to  the  durbar. 
Having  passed  through  the  arch,  we  found  ourselves  in  an 
enclosure  formed  by  khanats  of  about  four  acres,  and  in  this  Run- 
jeet's body-guard  were  assembled,  dressed  in  new  Kincab  dresses, 
and  as  magnificent  as  silk,  and  gold,  and  embroidery,  and  sump- 
tuous arms  could  make  them.  The  tents  were  beautiful,  made 
of  the  finest  fabric  of  Cashmere,  and  such  as  could  only  belong 
to  the  lord  of  that  enchanting  valley.  Runjeet  differed  much  in 
appearance  from  what  I  had  been  led  to  expect.  He  is  a  little 
man,  and  appeared  less  from  being  seated  between  two  such 
very  tall  men  as  Lord  Auckland  and  Sir  Henry  Fane ;  he  is 
very  dark  for  a  Seik,  his  face  is  rather  full  than  otherwise,  his 
beard  grey,  but  far  from  white,  the  expression  of  his  countenance 
is  that  of  great  cunning  and  intelligence,  and  constantly  varying ; 


VISIT    OF    THE    GOVERNOR-GENERAL    TO    RUNJEET    SINGH.         299 

and  if  you  did  not  know  his  character,  I  think  you  would  say 
there  was  no  outward  sign  of  determination. 

"  Runjeet  was  the  only  plainly-dressed  man  in  his  court ;  he 
wore  a  dress  and  turban  of  dark  red,  without  jewels  or  orna- 
ments of  any  description  whatever,  whilst  his  nobles  were  cased 
in  superb  cuirasses  and  choice  armour,  and  were  Uterally  glitter- 
ing with  jewels,  and  oh  !  such  shawls !  no  lady  patroness  of 
Almack's  in  her  wildest  dreams  ever  imagined  such  a  collection. 
Amongst  the  presents  Runjeet  has  given  to  Lord  Auckland  is  a 
gold  bed, — may  he  sleep  on  it  as  sound  as  I  do  on  my  little 
charpoy  ! 

"  We  have  just  returned  from  a  grand  review  of  the  whole  of 
the  troops  for  Lord  Auckland  and  Runjeet ;  all  very  fine,  I  hear, 
and  we  surpassed  ourselves  in  a  charge — Shavash !  Shavash  i 
Cawnpore  is  a  water-meadow  to  this  place,  the  clouds  of  dust 
would  be  incredible  if  we  did  not  know  we  are  advancing  to 
Dust  Mohamed's  country. 

"This  day  week,  it  is  said,  we  are  to  continue  our  march, 
but  there  are  no  supplies  on  the  road  for  us.  Shah  Sujah's 
Contingent  have  advanced,  and  I  fully  expect  to  see  them  some 
fine  morning  coming  back  with  at  least  a  flea  in  their  ear.  Nobody 
knows  what  is  to  be  done,  only  the  first  division  under  Sir  W. 
Cotton  marches  forward,  the  second  remains  here  as  a  reserve. 
No  one  seems  to  imagine  there  will  be  any  fighting,  but  we  shall 
march  down  to  Shikarpore,  and,  I  suppose,  having  secured  the 
safe  and  free  navigation  of  the  Indus,  march  through  Candahar, 
if  the  ruler  of  Cabul  will  not  listen  to  the  reasoning  of  our 
Government. 

"  The  crowd  at  the  durbar  before  mentioned,  which  took 
place  on  the  30th,  was  beyond  bearing,  and  the  band-master, 
who  must  be  a  wag,  played  '  We  met,  'twas  in  a  crowd ;'  and 
this  was  by  far  the  best  thing  that  transpired  at  the  visit  of  the 
Lion  of  the  Punjab,  and  the  Governor- General  of  India. 

"  On  returning  from  the  durbar,  Runjeet  stopped  at  the 
flank  of  the  troops  lining  the  road,  and  had  Major  Pew's  camel 
battery  paraded  for  his  inspection,  and  he  seemed  much  pleased 
with  it.     Major  Pew  may  well  be  proud  of  having  first  adapted 


300  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

the  powers  of  the  camel  to  the  artillery  service,  for  its  success 
has  exceeded  the  highest  expectations  that  were  formed  of  it. 
Several  of  Runjeet's  parade  horses  were  drawn  up  opposite  my 
squadron,  they  were  all  large,  fat,  northern  horses,  and  appeared 
highly  broke ;  they  were  most  sumptuously  caparisoned. 

"  I  forgot  to  mention  that  Major  Pew's  camel  battery  had 
accompanied  us  from  Delhi.  Four  camels  are  attached  to  each 
gun,  in  strong  and  well-constructed  harness  ;  and  in  no  instance 
was  there  any  delay  on  the  road.  There  can  be  no  doubt  what- 
ever of  the  camel  being  a  better  beast  of  draught  than  the  bullock  ; 
and  in  this  country,  unless  where  very  rapid  manoeuvres  are 
to  be  effected,  I  think  superior  to  the  horse.  A  driver  is  seated 
on  each  camel ;  the  animal  requires  comparatively  little  care  or 
breaking,  and  thrives  upon  scanty  food  ;  he  walks  along  at  the 
rate  of  nearly — ^if  not  quite — four  miles  an  hour,  and  the  team 
will  trot  away  with  a  gun  at  eight,  and  keep  this  pace  up  for 
a  distance  if  required. 

"  The  guard  I  before  mentioned  at  the  gate  of  the  durbar 
were  superbly  dressed  in  yellow  silk  (the  favourite  colour  of  the 
Seiks) ,  some  of  them  in  curious  and  delicate  chain  armour,  and 
all  most  sumptuously  armed.  There  was  some  Uttle  difficulty 
in  persuading  this  magnificent  guard  to  allow  us  ingress ;  at 
length,  however,  this  was  permitted,  and  I  found  myself  in  a 
square  of  about  four  acres,  artificially  laid  out  as  a  garden  with 
shrubs  and  flowers,  which  must  have  been  brought  from  a  con- 
siderable distance.  This  space  was  enclosed  with  canvas  walls 
seven  feet  high,  and  in  it  were  collected  the  body-guard,  all 
armed  with  sword  and  matchlock,  the  stock  curiously  inlaid 
with  gold,  or  silver,  or  ivory.  There  was  no  mistaking  Runjeet 
Sing,  from  the  loss  of  his  left  eye ;  he  is  not  emaciated,  as  I  had 
been  led  to  expect,  from  debauchery ;  and  has  not  the  hooked 
nose  usually  found  among  the  Seiks.  The  Lion  of  the  Punjab 
was  by  far  the  most  plainly-attired  man  in  his  court ;  he  wore 
the  same  dress  he  appeared  in  when  he  visited  Lord  Auckland  ; 
he  had  not  decked  himself  in  any  of  the  jewels  of  immense 
value  which  he  has  in  his  possession,  and  I  was  disappointed  at 
not  getting  a  glimpse  of  the  Koh-i-Nur,  which  he  generally 


THE    KOH-I-NUR.  301 

exhibits  on  his  person  on  great  occasions.  T  fear  Shah  Siijah 
has  little  chance  of  ever  recovering  this  inestimable  diamond, — 
who  knows,  in  a  few  years,  in  whose  possession  it  may  be 
found  ?  Shah  Sujah's  ancestors  plundered  it  from  the  treasure 
of  Nadir  Shah  after  he  was  assassinated,  and  Nadir  Shah 
extorted  it  from  the  great  Mogul  after  the  massacre  at  Delhi. 

"  Those  of  the  Seik  court  who  were  admitted  to  the  durbiir 
were  most  superbly  dressed,  some  in  flowing  yellow  or  bright 
red  silk  dresses,  their  kumraerbunds  always  a  Cashmere 
shawl  of  very  great  value ;  some  in  high -polished  cuirasses, 
and  others  in  choice  and  glittering  armour  ;  and  all  appeared 
decked  in  jewels  of  immense  value.  I  should  mention, 
Runjeet  has  wrested  Cashmere  from  the  rule  of  Cabul,  and 
will,  perhaps,  restore  the  unequalled  valley  to  Shah  Siijah 
with  the  Koh-i-Nur ;  however,  at  the  Seik  court,  under  a  tent, 
formed,  as  it  were,  of  immense  shawls,  seemed  to  be  collected 
the  very  choicest  fabrics  of  that  heavenly  country ;  whilst  all 
that  superb  armour,  jewels  of  inestimable  value,  silks  of  the 
richest  manufacture,  ornaments  of  pure  and  elaborately  wrought 
gold,  shawls  of  the  finest  texture  and  most  beautiful  colours  and 
patterns,  and  embroidery  curiously  worked  on  cloth  of  velvet, 
here  met  the  eye.  Even  those  in  the  retinue  who  were  very 
far  too  inferior  to  geun  admittance  to  the  durbar,  or  hardly  to 
the  presence  of  those  who  appeared  there,  wore  shawls  of  such 
beauty,  as  would  have  excited  the  envy  of  our  richest  ladies. 
Immediately  in  front  of  the  Maharaj  and  Lord  Auckland,  the 
never-failing  nach  was  exhibited ;  the  singer  was  covered  with 
jewels,  and  wore  a  dark  green  dress,  very  tastefully  embroidered 
in  silver,  and  she  modulated  her  voice  sufficiently,  not  to  make 
herself  very  disagreeable.  The  presents  were  now  handed  round, 
and  we  took  our  leave.  The  Seiks,  like  a  sensible  people,  never 
shave  the  face,  and  would  almost  as  soon  cut  their  throats  as 
their  beards.  I  did  not  get  back  to  my  tents  until  late,  but 
returned  very  highly  gratified  with  the  superb  pageant  I  had 
witnessed ;  it  would  be  difficult  to  picture  a  more  magnificent 
spectacle." 

My  correspondent  here  mentions,  that  the  presents  given  by 


302  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM. 

the  Seiks  were  handed  round  on  trays  ; — a  far  less  miUtary  style 
than  that  adopted  by  the  Rajput,  whose  shield  always  forms  the 
tray  which  contains  his  offerings. 

20th. — When  in  the  Hills,  roaming  in  the  interior,  I  met  with 
an  accident,  a  fall :  coming  down  a  rock,  my  long  silk  gown 
having  caught  on  a  projecting  part  of  it,  I  was  thrown  headlong 
down ;  therefore  I  made  a  dress  more  suited  for  such  expe- 
ditions, a  black  Paharl  dress,  somewhat  resembling  Turkish 
attire.  My  fair  companion  admired  it  exceedingly,  and  made 
one  for  herself  after  the  same  fashion  ;  large  round  sailor-looking 
straw  hats  completed  the  costume :  they  were  comfortable 
dresses  on  the  river.  My  ayha,  who  accompanied  me  to  the 
bazar  last  night,  told  me  the  natives  said  to  her,  "Ayha,  ayha, 
is  that  a  man  or  a  woman?" — "A  man."  "Ayha,  tell  the 
truth,  is  it  a  man  or  a  woman  ?" — "  A  man."  "  Then  why  are 
you  with  him  ?" — "  Oh,  the  sahib  brought  me  to  bargain  for 
things  in  the  bazar."  I  asked  her  why  she  had  said  I  was  a 
man  ?  She  replied,  "  They  are  great  thieves,  and  if  they  think 
you  a  man  they  are  less  likely  to  attempt  to  rob  the  boats." 
Her  stratagem  amused  me.  The  purchases  I  made  were  certainly 
not  feminine,  consisting  of  sixty-five  bamboos  and  some  shot ; 
and  I  superintended  the  fixing  of  some  brass  work  on  a  musket 
that  was  out  of  repair. 

We  are  at  this  moment  surrounded  by  a  great  number  of 
boats  ;  the  people  belonging  to  them  are  singing  and  playing  on 
all  sorts  of  uncouth  instruments  ;  such  a  hum,  and  such  a  din ! 
— it  will  be  useless  to  attempt  to  rest  until  these  perturbed 
spirits  have  sung  themselves  to  sleep. 

22nd. — Off"  Pointy,   where  the  river  is  rapid  and  dangerous, 

we  saw  two  vessels  that  had  been  just  wrecked.     The  owner  of 

the  land    (the  jamindar)   was   taking  up  the  cargo  from  the 

wrecks ;  half  becomes  his  share,  and  the  owners  of  the  vessels 

.  have  only  the  remainder. 

25th. — ^A  stormy  day ;  during  a  lull  we  attempted  to  cross 
the  river ;  half-way  over  a  heavy  wind  rendered  my  boat 
unmanageable,  and  we  were  driven  by  the  wind  upon  a  clump 
of  bamboo  stumps  that  were  just  above  water  in  the  middle  of 


NATIVES    AFRAID    OF    CADETS.  303 

the  stream  :  the  crew  were  alarmed,  and  shouted  "  Ram  !  ram  ! 
ah'e  Khuda  !  iih'e  Khuda  !"  Fortunately,  the  boat  being  strong 
and  new,  she  did  not  split  open,  and  after  a  time  we  got  her  off 
again ;  the  wind  then  drove  us  up  a  creek,  and  we  lugaoed  on  a 
sandbank.  The  gale  separated  me  from  my  fair  friend,  whose 
boat  was  driven  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  river ;  her  people 
were  calling  to  know  if  I  were  safe  ;  it  was  impossible  to  rejoin 
her  ;  she  heard  the  answering  shouts  of  my  men  in  the  distance, 
and  was  satisfied.  We  were  like  the  Brahmani  ducks,  the 
chakwa  chakwi,  separated  by  the  river,  and  calling  through  the 
live-long  night  "  a'o,  a'o,"  "  come,  come." 

26th. — We  anchored  below  the  village  of  Downapur,  which 
had  been  washed  away  into  the  river  during  the  last  rains,  by 
the  force  of  the  current  having  undermined  its  banks.  My 
fair  friend  and  I  roamed  in  the  beautiful  moonlight  by  ourselves, 
attired  in  our  Pahari  dresses  and  straw  hats,  to  a  village  at  some 
distance.  The  women  took  us  for  cadets,  and  ran  away  in  a 
great  fright ;  nor  was  it  for  a  length  of  time  we  could  bring  an 
ugly  old  hag  to  a  parley ;  at  last  we  succeeded,  and  bought  a 
Bengalee  goat  and  kid  ;  the  villagers  were  excessively  afraid  of 
us,  and  with  great  difficulty  we  persuaded  them  to  bring  the 
goats  to  the  vessel.  They  asked  my  companion  where  her 
regiment  was  stationed ;  and  imagined  my  wife  was  parda  nishln 
on  bocird  the  boats.  We  did  not  undeceive  them  with  respect 
to  our  manhood. 

On  my  return  I  asked  the  sentry  on  my  boat,  "  What  hour  is 
it?"  The  man  answered,  "When  Honey  is  perpendicular  over 
the  mast  it  is  midnight;  it  must  now  be  eleven."  His  Honey 
are  the  three  stars  in  Orion's  belt. 

27th. — Anchored  below  Sooty  on  the  Bhagirathi.  I  was 
awakened  from  my  sleep  at  10  p.m.  by  the  servants  saying  my 
cook  had  been  missing  since  7  in  the  evening ;  his  age  is  twenty  ;  . 
and  he  had  never  quitted  the  boats  before.  We  looked  over  all  the 
boats,  and  searched  the  jdngal  for  miles  around,  and  we  began 
to  fear  a  tiger  might  have  taken  him  off,  knowing  that  gentlemen 
are  in  the  habit  of  coming  to  this  part  of  the  country  tiger- 
shooting.     My  friend  became  uneasy,  and  was  anxious  to  go  to 


304  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

the  opposite  side  of  the  river ;  to  this  I  objected,  offering  to  keep 
a  bonfire  blazing  before  the  boats  all  night,  but  refusing  to  quit 
the  spot  until  the  boy's  fate  was  ascertained.  At  last  he  was 
discovered  on  the  top  of  my  boat,  hanging  over  the  side  as  if  he 
had  fallen  there  ;  on  moving  him  he  groaned  as  if  in  severe  agony, 
and  appeared  senseless;  his  jaw  was  locked,  his  eyes  were  fixed,  and 
turned  up  under  the  lids.  The  poor  fellow  had  been  exposed  in  this 
state  to  the  dews  of  a  Bengal  night  for  three  houre.  They  brought 
him  into  my  cabin,  he  fell  into  the  most  violent  convulsions, 
and  appeared  dying.  All  the  remedies  for  fits  were  applied  ; 
we  placed  him  in  a  warm  bath  ;  after  three  hours  and  a  half  his 
jaw  relaxed,  his  eyes  moved  as  if  the  pressure  was  off  them,  and 
being  better,  the  servants  carried  him,  still  apparently  senseless, 
into  the  cook -boat.  I  had  been  up  with  him  four  hours  in  a  damp 
foggy  night,  anxious  for  his  recovery ;  his  father  weis  our  cook, 
and  this  young  native  had  been  with  us  eleven  years  under  his 

father.     Mrs.  B said,  "  1  heard  a  native  hint  to  another 

that  the  boy  is  not  in  a  fit ;  and  I  have  heard  natives  will  sham 
illness,  and  deceive  any  body."  I  called  a  servant,  and  asked 
him  if  it  were  true.  The  man,  standing  on  one  leg,  with  the 
palms  of  both  hands  clasped  together,  said,  "  What  can  I  say  ? 
will  you  forgive  me  ?  If  you  were  my  master  I  would  tell  you  ; 
but  how  can  I  utter  such  words  of  shame  to  my  mistress  ?  Say 
you  will  forgive  me  for  uttering  such  words,  and  I  will  tell  you, 
if  you  order  me  to  do  so."  He  then  related  what  had  passed, 
and  said,  the  boy,  hearing  himself  called,  became  alarmed,  hid 
himself,  and,  on  being  discovered,  shammed  illness. 

I  desired  the  chaprasi  to  take  a  little  riding  whip  in  his  hand, 
and  accompany  me  into  the  cook-boat ;  the  boy  was  better, 
but  had  not  recovered  from  his  fit, — the  violent  convulsions  had 
gone  off.  I  ordered  the  head  man  to  cut  off  his  hair,  and  apply 
leeches  to  liis  head ;  during  the  operation  the  itching  of  his  head 
made  him  put  up  his  hand  and  scratch  it.  I  saw  from  his 
countenance  he  was  angry,  for  the  shaving  of  the  head  is,  I 
believe,  the  sign  of  complete  slavery  with  a  native,  and  he  found 
it  difficult  to  sham  illness.  The  operation  over,  the  khaldsl 
gave  him  a  sharp  cut  with  the  whip  over  his  hand,  desired  him  to 


THE    PANCHAYAT.  305 

leave  off  shamming,  and  come  on  deck.  Finding  his  imposition 
was  discovered,  he  got  up,  and  in  the  most  impudent  manner 
said,  "  What  fault  have  I  committed  ? — what  have  I  done  that  is 
wrong?"  When  I  told  a  chaprasi  to  take  charge  of  him,  and 
take  him  to  the  nearest  magistrate,  the  cook  fell  at  my  feet, 
confessed  his  crime,  and  begged  I  would  not  send  him  away ; 
requesting  a  panchayat  might  be  held  on  his  conduct,  or  that  I 
would  punish  him  according  to  my  pleasure.  I  told  the  people 
to  hold  a  panchayat  according  to  their  own  customs,  to  report 
the  sentence  to  me,  and  it  should  be  carried  into  execution. 
The  whole  of  the  people  assembled  in  council  under  a  sacred 
tree  on  the  bank,  and  deliberated  on  the  case :  at  the  termi- 
nation of  the  consultation  the  elders  came  to  me  saying 
they  had  decided  as  follows  : — The  cook  was  to  receive  twenty- 
two  lashes,  that  he  was  to  lose  caste,  and  to  have  his  hukka  pant 
hdndh — that  is,  they  would  no  longer  allow  him  to  associate 
with  themselves,  eat  or  smoke  with  them,  or  worship  with  the 
faithful.  They  requested  I  would  turn  him  out  of  the  boats, 
that  they  should  be  allowed  to  take  him  on  shore,  put  him  on 
an  ass  with  his  face  to  the  tail  of  the  animal,  and  followed  by 
drums,  and  the  hooting  of  the  rabble,  they  should  lead  the 
donkey  through  the  village,  and  then  turn  him  off  for  ever. 
This  was  a  severe  sentence,  and  showed  how  angry  the  people  of 
his  own  caste  had  become  :  they  gave  him  the  twenty- two  lashes, 
he  lost  caste,  and  was  not  allowed  to  worship  on  deck  as  usual. 
I  would  not  turn  him  out  of  service,  knowing  it  would  be  his 
ruin,  and  I  felt  compassion  for  his  pretty  young  wife,  whom  he  had 
left  at  Allahabad  ;  nor  would  I  allow  them  to  parade  him  on  an 
ass.  The  panchayat  took  into  consideration  the  conduct  of  the 
under-woman  ;  the  servants  had  told  her  if  she  had  hidden  the 
cook  any  where,  if  she  would  tell  he  should  be  released,  and 
nothing  should  be  said  about  it:  that  they  would  not  awaken 
me ;  they  only  wanted  to  find  him.  She  swore  she  had  not 
seen  him  at  all ;  she  was  present  during  the  four  hours  he  was 
pretending  to  be  ill, — she  saw  how  much  alarmed  I  was, — also 
that  during  this  time  I  was  exposed  to  the  night  air ;  and  she 
aided  in  the  deception.     They  condemned  her  according  to  law, 

VOL.  II.  X 


306  WANDERINGS    OP    A    PTLGRIM. 

but  as  the  sentence  was  very  severe,  I  only  allowed  a  pai-t  of  it 
to  be  put  into  execution.  She  was  obUged  to  blacken  her  own 
face  with  soot  and  oil  as  she  sat  on  deck  ;  all  the  servants  came 
round  her, — they  laughed,  hooted,  and  complimented  her  on 
her  beauty ;  she  cried  bitterly, — the  punishment  was  severe 
enough  ;  she  was  afraid  she  should  be  paraded  on  the  donkey,  and 
was  very  glad  to  find  I  would  not  allow  it.  The  next  day  she 
wanted  the  cook  to  marry  her,  and  make  her  a  Musalmanl, 
saying,  her  husband  on  her  return  would  cut  off  her  nose,  and 
break  into  the  zenana  of  the  cook.  However,  she  was  disap- 
pointed in  her  wish  of  becoming  a  follower  of  the  Prophet,  it 
being  discovered  she  had  another  lover :  this  extra  lover  also 
lost  caste,  and  had  his  hukha  pant  bdndh. 

Knowing  the  natives  are  apt  to  administer  poison  in  revenge, 
I  mentioned  the  circumstance  to  my  khansaman,  and  said,  "  It 
is  immaterial  to  me,  but,  in  case  of  my  death,  you  will  be 
answerable  to  the  sahib."  The  man  made  his  salam,  saying, 
"  On  my  head  be  it :  you  have  punished  the  man  justly ;  there 
is  nothing  to  fear:  had  he  been  punished  unjustly  he  might 
have  revenged  himself  by  putting  poison  in  your  food." 
"  Very  well,"  said  T,  "it  is  your  concern,  not  mine;" — and  I 
finished  my  dinner. 

29th. — Arrived  at  Berhampiir,  at  which  place  a  bearer  of 
mine  related  the  following  history  : — 

"  In  former  times,  when  the  English  first  came  to  Kalkut 
(Calcutta),  a  very  rich  merchant  resided  at  Moorshedabad,  by 
name  Jugger  Seit :  this  man  was  a  great  hardm-zdda  (rascal) , 
never  obeyed  the  orders  of  the  Nawiib,  was  very  rich,  and  had 
two  hundred  soldiers  as  a  body-guard.  One  day  he  boasted 
that  he  could  day  by  day  dethrone  such  a  Nawiib  as  the  one  at 
Moorshedabad,  and  daily  place  a  new  one  on  the  throne  :  these 
words  having  been  reported  to  the  Nawab,  he  sent  two  soldiers 
to  seize  the  merchant.  While  the  man  was  bathing  in  the  river, 
away  from  his  attendants,  the  soldiers  fell  upon  him  ;  and  one 
of  them  having  stabbed  him  in  the  side,  they  carried  him  before 
the  Nawab.  He  oflTered  as  his  ransom  to  strew  the  road  from 
Moorshedabad  to  Delhi  with  gold  mohurs  ;  but  the  Nawiib  was 


QUITTED    BERHAMPUR.  307 

inflexible.  The  merchant  was  fastened  into  a  palanquin,  placed 
in  a  small  boat,  carried  out  into  the  river  in  front  of  the 
Nawab's  house,  and  thrown  palki  and  all  into  the  stream, 
where  of  course  he  was  drowned."  So  ends  the  tale  of  the 
Nawab,  the  Merchant,  and  the  Palki. 

30th. — Kemained  at  Berhampur,  to  write  letters,  buy  silks, 
also  figures  of  men  and  animals  beautifully  carved  in  ivory,  and 
to  procure  food. 

31*^ — Quitted  Berhampur.  I  have  suffered  so  much  during 
the  last  twelvemonth  from  the  death  of  relatives  and  friends, 
that  I  now  bid  adieu  to  the  past  year  without  regret.  May  the 
new  one  prove  happier  than  the  last ! 


1i2 


CHAPTER  LIX. 


ARRIVAL  IN  CALCUTTA— THE   "MADAGASCAR." 

Cutwa — Bracelets  of  the  Sankh  Shell — Anchor-making  at  Culwa— The  Dying 
Bengali— The  Skull— The  Tides— The  "  Madagascar"— Mai  de  Mer— A 
Man  Overboard — Mountains  of  Africa — Wrecks — Wineburgh — Constantia — 
A  South-easter — Return  to  the  Ship — -Emancipation  of  the  Slaves  —  Grapes^ A 
Trip  into  the  Interior— Captain  Harris — St.  Helena — Prices  at  Mr.  Solomon's 
Shop — The]  Tomb  of  the  Emperor  —  Longwood — St.  Helena  Birds — Our 
Indian  Wars — General  Allard — Letter  from  Jellalabad — Death  of  Colonel 
Arnold — The  A%hans — Mausoleum  of  Shah  Mahmoud — The  Gates  of 
Somnaut — The  Remains  of  the  Ancient  City  of  Ghuznee. 

1839,  Jan.  \st. — We  flew  down  the  river  on  a  powerfiil  wind, 
until  we  reached  Cutwa,  where  we  moored,  to  purchase  a  gdgrd, 
a  brass  vessel  for  holding  water ;  gdgrds  and  lotas  are  manu- 
factured at  this  place,  as  are  also  churls,  bracelets  made  of  the 
sankh,  the  conch  shell  which  the  Hindus  blow.  These  churls 
are  beautifully  white,  very  prettily  ornamented,  and  are  worn  in 
sets :  above  them,  some  of  the  women  wore  immense  bracelets 
of  silver  or  of  pewter,  according  to  the  rank  of  the  wearer ; 
those  bracelets  stand  up  very  high,  and  the  pewter  ones  shine 
like  silver,  from  being  scrubbed  with  sand  daily  in  the  river. 
At  this  place  a  number  of  people  were  bathing ;  one  of  the 
Bengali  women  was  remarkably  well  formed,  my  attention  was 
attracted  by  the  beauty  of  her  figure ;  her  skin  was  of  a  clear 
dark  brown,  with  which  her  ornaments  of  red  coral  well  con- 
trasted ;  her  dress,  the  long  white  sari,  hanging  in  folds  of 
graceful  drapery  around  her ;  but  her  face  was  so  ugly,  it  was 


THE    DYING    BENGALI.  309 

quite  provoking ; — so  plain  a  face  united  to  so  well-formed  a 
figure. 

2nd. — At  Nuddea  the  tide  was  perceptible,  and  the  smell  of 
the  burnt  bodies  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  most 
annoying. 

3rd. — Anchored  at  Culwa,  to  get  the  wooden  anchor  filled 
with  mud  and  bound  up  with  ropes  ;  the  process  was  simple 
and  curious,  but  it  took  five  hours  to  accomplish  the  work. 
Bamboos  were  tied  to  the  cross  of  the  anchor,  which  was  of 
heavy  wood, — a  bit  of  old  canvas  was  put  inside,  and  filled 
with  lumps  of  strong  clay, — the  bamboos  were  then  pressed 
together,  and  the  whole  bound  with  ropes ;  a  very  primitive 
afl^air.  I  had  a  new  cable  made  before  quitting  Prag, — a  neces- 
sary precaution  ;  for  unless  you  have  it  done  beforehand  they 
will  detain  you  at  Culwa  to  do  it,  as  the  hemp  is  a  little  cheaper 
there  than  in  the  up-country,  and  the  miinjhis  do  not  care  for 
the  annoyance  the  detention  of  three  or  four  days  may  occasion. 
At  Culwa  I  saw  a  shocking  sight :  a  dying  Bengali  woman 
was  lying  on  a  mat  by  the  river  side,  her  head  supported  by  a 
pillow,  and  a  woman  sitting  at  her  side  was  fanning  her  with  a 
pankha.  At  a  certain  time  the  body  is  laid  in  the  water  up  to 
the  waist,  prayers  are  repeated  ;  and  at  the  moment  of  dying  the 
mud  of  the  holy  Ganges  is  stuffed  into  the  nose  and  mouth, 
and  the  person  expires  in  the  fulness  of  righteousness.  My 
people  told  me  that,  if  the  woman  did  not  die  by  night-time,  it 
was  very  likely  they  would  stuff  her  nose  and  mouth  a  little  too 
soon  with  the  holy  mud,  and  expedite  her  journey  rather  too 
quickly  to  another  world  !  The  Hindus,  up-country  men,  who 
were  with  me,  were  disgusted  with  the  Bengalee  customs,  and 
violent  in  their  abuse.  Should  she  recover  she  will  take  refuge, 
an  outcast  in  the  village  of  Chagdah. 

We  anchored  at  Santipur.  The  water  of  the  river  at  the 
ghat  was  covered  with  drops  of  oil,  from  its  being  a  bathing- 
place,  and  the  Bengalis  having  the  custom  of  anointing  their 
bodies  daily  with  oil. 

A  chaprasi  of  mine,  seeing  a  skull,  struck  it  with  a  bamboo 
and  cursed  it. 


810  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

"  Why  did  you  strike  and  curse  the  skull?"  said  I. 

"It  is  a  vile  Bengali  skull ;  and  those  sons  of  slaves,  when 
we  ask  a  question,  only  laugh  and  give  no  answer." 

"  Perhaps  they  do  not  understand  your  up-country  language." 

"  Perhaps  not,  that  may  be  the  reason  ;  but  we  hate  them." 

6th. — ^Two  miles  above  Calcutta : — the  day  was  fine,  the  wind 
very  heavy,  but  favourable :  the  view  of  the  shipping  beautiful ; 
I  enjoyed  it  until  I  remembered  my  crew  were  up-country  men, 
from  Hurdwar,  who  had  never  seen  the  sea,  and  knew  not  the 
force  of  the  tides.  We  drifted  with  fearfiil  velocity  through  the 
shipping ;  they  threw  the  anchor  overboard,  but  it  would  not 
hold ;  and  away  we  went,  our  great  unwieldy  boat  striking  first 
one  ship  then  another ;  at  length  a  gentleman,  seeing  our 
danger  as  we  were  passing  his  pinnace,  threw  a  rope  on  board, 
which  the  men  seized,  and  having  fastened  it,  brought  up  the 
vessel.  All  this  time  I  was  on  deck,  under  a  burning  sun,  and 
we  did  not  anchor  until  12  at  noon  ;  consequently,  that  night  I 
was  verj'^  ill,  the  beating  in  my  head  fearfully  painful,  and  I 
fainted  away  three  times ;  but  it  was  of  no  consequence,  I  was 
in  the  hands  of  a  kind  friend,  and  soon  recovered. 

9th. — ^The  ships  lie  close  to  the  drive  near  the  Fort,  and 
visiting  them  is  amusement  for  a  morning.  I  went  on  board 
the  "Earl  of  Hardwicke," — she  could  not  accommodate  me; 
thence  I  proceeded  to  the  "  Madagascar,"  and  took  one  of  the 
lower  stern  cabins  for  myself,  for  which  I  was  to  give  2500 
rupees ;  and  a  smaller  cabin,  at  1300  rupees,  for  my  friend's 
three  children,  who  were  to  accompany  me  to  England.  At  the 
same  time  I  engaged  an  European  woman  to  attend  upon  me 
and  the  young  ones.  Going  to  sea  is  the  only  chance  for  the 
poor  boys,  after  the  severe  fever  they  had  on  the  river,  from  the 
effects  of  which  they  are  still  suffering. 

The  larboard  stern  cabin  suits  me  remarkably  well ;  it  is  very 
spacious,  sufficient  to  contain  a  number  of  curiosities ;  and 
before  the  windows  I  have  arranged  a  complete  forest  of  the 
horns  of  the  buffalo,  the  stag,  and  the  antelope. 

20th. — A  steamer  towed  the  "  Madagascar"  down  the  river, 
and  the  pilot  quitted  us  on  the  22nd,  from  which  moment  we 


SYMPATHY.  311 

reckoned  the  voyage  actually  commenced ;  it  is  not  counted 
from  Calcutta,  but  from  the  Sandheads,  when  the  pilot  gives 
over  the  vessel  to  the  captain,  and  takes  his  departure.  Suddu 
Khan,  my  old  khansaman,  who  had  accompanied  me  thus  far, 
now  returned  with  the  pilot :  the  old  man  must  have  been  half- 
starved,  he  would  eat  nothing  on  board  but  a  Uttle  parched 
grain,  and  slept  outside  my  cabin-door ;  he  is  an  excellent 
servant,  and  says  he  will  take  the  greatest  care  of  the  sahib 
until  my  return. 

I  suffered  severely  at  the  Sandheads  from  mal  de  mer,  on 
account  of  the  heavy  ground-swell ;  perhaps  no  illness  is  more 
distressing, — to  complain  is  useless,  and  only  excites  laughter ; 
no  concern  on  the  subject  is  ever  felt  or  expressed.  Why  is 
blind  man's  buff  like  sympathy '  ? 

Let  no  one  be  tempted  to  take  a  lower  stern  cabin  ;  mine  was 
one  of  the  largest  and  best,  with  three  windows  and  two  ports  ; 
nevertheless  it  was  very  hot,  the  wind  could  not  reach  it ;  it  was 
much  less  comfortable  than  a  smaller  cabin  would  have  been  on 
the  poop. 

30th. — Very  little  wind  in  the  early  morning  ;  during  the  day 
a  dead  calm, — very  hot  and  oppressive.  How  a  calm  tries  the 
temper !  Give  me  any  squall  you  please,  but  spare  me  a 
calm. 

Slst. — The  ship  rolling  and  pitching  most  unmercifully; 
there  is  scarcely  wind  enough  to  move  her ;  she  lies  rolling  and 
pitching  as  if  she  would  send  her  masts  overboard  ;  thermometer 
87° — the  heat  is  most  distressing, — no  wind :  caught  a  shark 
and  a  sucking  fish. 

Feb.  1st. — ^Thermometer  87°,  the  heat  is  distressing :  a  return 
voyage  is  much  hotter  than  one  from  England.  Captain  Walker 
is  very  attentive  to  his  passengers ;  he  keeps  an  excellent 
table,  and  every  thing  is  done  to  render  them  comfortable.  We 
have  sixty  invalids  on  board, — wretched-looking  men ;  one 
of  them,  when  the  ship  was  going  seven  knots  an  hour, 
threw  himself  overboard ;  a  rope  was  thrown  out,  to  which 
he  clung,  and   they   drew   him  in  again ;    he   came  up  sober 

'  Appendix,  No.  33. 


312  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

enough,  wliich  it  was  supposed  he  was  not  when  he  jumped 
overboard.  Fortunate  was  it  for  the  man  that  the  voracious 
shark  we  afterwards  caught,  whose  interior  was  full  of  bones, 
did  not  make  his  acquaintance  in  the  water. 

March  4th. — The  morning  was  fine,  the  sea  heavy,  and  we 
came  in  dehghtfuUy  towards  the  Cape :  the  mountains  of  Africa 
were  beautiful,  with  the  foaming  breakers  rushing  and  sounding 
at  their  base.  The  lighthouse  and  green  point,  with  its  white 
houses,  were  pleasing  objects.  The  view  as  you  enter  the  Cape 
is  certainly  very  fine :  the  mountains  did  not  appear  very  high 
to  my  eye,  accustomed  to  the  everlasting  snows  of  the  Hima- 
laya, but  they  are  wild,  bold,  and  picturesque,  rising  directly 
from  the  sea, — and  such  a  fine,  unquiet,  foaming,  and  roaring 
sea  as  it  is  !  The  Devil's  Peak,  the  Lion,  and  Table  Mountain, 
were  all  in  high  beauty;  not  a  cloud  was  over  them.  The 
wreck  of  the  "  Juliana "  lay  near  the  lighthouse ;  and  the 
"Trafalgar"  was  also  there,  having  been  wrecked  only  a  week 
before. 

5th. — Breakfasted  at  the  George  Hotel ;  fresh  bread  and 
butter  was  a  luxury.  Drove  to  Wineburgh  to  see  a  friend,  and 
not  finding  him  at  home,  we  consoled  ourselves  with  making  a 
tiffin — that  is,  luncheon, — on  the  deliciously  fine  white  water 
grapes  fi'om  his  garden.  Proceeded  to  Constantia,  called  on  a 
Dutch  lady,  the  owner  of  the  vineyard,  whose  name  I  forget ; 
she,  her  husband,  and  daughter  were  very  civil,  and  offered  us 
refreshment.  We  walked  over  the  vineyard  ;  the  vines  are  cut 
down  to  the  height  of  a  gooseberry  bush,  short  and  stumpy ; 
the  blue  grapes  were  hanging  on  them  half  dried  up,  and  many 
people  were  employed  picking  off"  the  vine  leaves,  to  leave  the 
bunches  more  exposed  to  the  sun ;  the  taste  of  the  fruit  was 
very  luscious,  and  a  few  grapes  were  sufficient,  they  were  too 
cloying,  too  sweet.  They  told  us  it  took  an  amazing  quantity  of 
grapes  to  make  the  Constantia,  so  httle  juice  being  extracted,  in 
consequence  of  their  first  allowing  the  bunches  to  become  so  dry 
upon  the  vine;  but  as  that  juice  was  of  so  rich  a  quality,  it  rendered 
the  Constantia  proportionably  expensive.  The  old  Dutchman 
took  us  up  a  ladder  into  an  oak  tree,  in  which  benches  were 


CONSTANTIA.  313 

fixed  all  round  the  trunk  ;  he  took  great  pride  in  the  hreadth  ot 
it,  and  the  little  verdant  room  formed  of  the  branches  was  his 
favourite  place  for  smoking.  The  acorns  I  picked  up  were 
remarkably  large,  much  larger  than  English  acorns.  Oaks  grow 
very  quickly  at  the  Cape,  three  times  as  fast  as  in  England ;  but 
the  wood  is  not  so  good,  and  they  send  to  England  for  the  wood 
for  the  wane-casks,  which  is  sent  out  ready  to  be  put  together ; 
they  think  their  wine  too  valuable  for  the  wood  at  the  Cape. 
There  was  no  wine-making  going  on  at  the  time,  but  the  lovers 
of  Constantia  may  feel  some  disgust  at  knowing  that  the  juice  is 
pressed  out  by  trampling  of  the  grapes  in  a  tub ; — an  operation 
performed  by  the  naked  feet  of  the  Africanders,  who  are  not 
the  most  cleanly  animals  on  earth. 

How  much  the  freshness  of  the  foliage  and  the  beauty  of  the 
country  through  which  we  drove  dehghted  me !  The  wild 
white  geranium  and  the  myrtle  were  both  in  flower  in  the 
hedges.  After  a  sea- voyage  we  devoured  the  vegetables, 
the  fish,  and  the  fruit,  like  children  turned  loose  amongst 
dainties. 

Our  voyage  from  Calcutta  to  the  Cape  had  been  a  very  fine 
one — forty-two  days ;  the  shortest  period  in  which  it  has  been 
accomphshed  was  thirty-one  days,  by  a  French  vessel.  The 
mal  de  mer  that  had  made  me  miserable  from  the  time  the 
pilot  quitted  us  never  left  me  until  we  were  within  four  or 
five  days'  sail  of  the  Cape ;  then  image  to  yourself  the  delight 
with  which  I  found  myself  on  shore.  Eatables — such  as  sar- 
dines, anchovies,  &c., — are  more  reasonable  than  in  Calcutta; 
one  shilhng  is  equivalent  to  a  rupee.  Visited  a  shop  where 
there  is  a  good  collection  of  stuffed  birds ;  bought  a  Butcher 
bird, — it  catches  its  prey,  sticks  it  upon  a  thorn,  and  devours  it 
at  leisure :  small  birds  are  one  shilling  each ;  but  I  know  not 
if  they  are  prepared  with  arsenical  soap,  like  those  to  be  pur-, 
chased  at  Landowr.  No  good  ostrich  feathers  were  to  be  had  at 
the  Europe  shops  :  there  is  a  shop,  kept  by  a  Dutchwoman, 
near  the  landing-place,  where  the  best — the  uncleaned  ostrich 
feathers — are  sometimes  to  be  bought ;  the  price  about  five 
guineas  per  pound.     My  man-servant  gave  twenty  shillings  for 


314  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

eighteen  very  fine  large  long  feathers  in  the  natural  state,  and 
he  told  me  he  made  a  great  profit  by  selling  them  in  town. 

6th. — I  was  just  starting  to  dine  with  an  old  friend,  when  I 
was  told  a  South-easter  was  coming  on,  and  I  must  go  on  board 
at  once ;  there  had  been  no  South-easter  for  some  time,  and  it 
was  likely  to  blow  three  days.  The  Table  Mountain  was  covered 
with  a  white  cloud,  spread  like  a  table-cloth  over  the  summit, 
and  the  wind  blew  very  powerfully.  My  friend  hurried  me  oflf, 
saying  instances  had  been  known  of  ships  having  been  blown  off 
the  land  during  a  South-easter,  leaving  the  passengers  on  shore, 
and  their  not  being  able  to  return  for  them.  A  gentleman 
offered  the  boatman  who  brought  us  on  shore  five  pounds  to 
take  us  to  the  "  Madagascar," — she  was  lying  three  miles  from 
land ;  the  man  did  not  like  the  wind,  and  would  not  go.  A 
boatman  with  a  small  boat  said  he  would  take  six  of  the  party 
for  thirty  shillings.  When  we  got  fairly  from  land  the  little 
boat  pitched  and  tossed,  and  the  waves  broke  over  her,  running 
down  our  backs ;  it  was  a  very  dark  evening,  we  made  the 
wrong  vessel,  and  as  we  got  off  from  her  side  I  thought  we 
should  have  been  swamped ;  then  there  was  the  fear  of  not 
making  our  own  ship,  and  being  blown  out  to  sea.  Very  glad 
was  I  when  we  were  alongside,  and  still  more  so  when  my  feet 
were  on  her  deck, — the  Uttle  boat  rose  and  sunk  so  violently 
at  the  side  of  the  vessel.  How  the  wind  roared  through 
the  rigging !  The  South-easter  blew  all  night,  and  abated  in 
the  morning,  when  those  who  had  been  left  on  shore  came  on 
board. 

A  friend  came  to  say  farewell,  and  brought  me  a  large  hamper 
full  of  the  finest  grapes,  pears,  and  apples, — a  most  charming 
present.  I  and  the  three  children  feasted  upon  them  for 
ten  days :  how  refreshing  fine  grapes  were  at  breakfast ! 
and  such  grapes !  I  never  tasted  any  so  fine  before.  From 
a  Newfoundland  ship  near  us  I  purchased  several  baskets  of 
■  shells. 

There  was  a  little  squadron  of  fishermen's  boats  all  out 
together,  and  hundreds  of  birds  were  following  the  boats,  resting 
on  the  water  at  times,  and  watching  for  the  bits  of  bait  thrown 


CONSTANTIA.  315 

away  by  the  fishermen,  which  they  picked  up — it  was  a  pretty 
sight. 

The  mountains  certainly  are  very  wild  and  beautiful ;  there  is 
vegetation  to  the  top  of  Table  Mountain,  3500  feet.  Landowr, 
on  which  I  formerly  Uved,  is  7500  feet  above  the  sea ;  and 
that  is  covered  with  fine  trees,  and  vegetation  of  all  kinds, 
all  over  the  summit. 

At  Constantia,  at  Mr.  Vanrennon's  vineyard,  his  wife  com- 
plained greatly  of  the  emancipation  of  the  slaves  :  some  of  them 
were  unwilling  to  be  free,  some  of  them  were  glad  that  freedom 
procured  them  idleness  ;  their  wages  being  high  and  food  cheap, 
the  emancipated  people  will  only  work  now  and  then.  The 
slaves  collect  in  Cape  Town,  they  work  for  a  week,  the  wages  of 
seven  days  will  supply  them  with  rice  and  fish  for  a  length  of 
time ;  and  until  forced  by  necessity,  they  will  not  work  again. 
They  will  prepare  the  land,  but  when  the  harvest  is  to  be  cut, 
they  will  not  cut  it  unless  you  give  them  a  sum  far  beyond 
their  wages ;  and  if  you  refuse  to  submit  to  the  imposition,  the 
crops  must  rot  on  the  ground.  The  thatching  on  the  houses  at 
Constantia  is  most  beautifully  done,  so  correct  and  regular,  and 
every  thing  there  looks  neat,  and  clean,  and  happy. 

There  are  several  sorts  of  grapes  at  the  Cape,  the  purple,  and 
the  white  Pontac  grape,  of  which  the  Constantia  wine  is  made. 
The  white  sweet  pod,  a  long  grape ;  the  sweet  water,  a  round 
white  grape  ;  and  a  round  purple  grape  ; — they  are  all  very  fine. 
The  medical  men  prescribe  nothing  to  old  Indians  but  grapes, 
grapes,  as  many  as  they  can  eat ;  that  is  the  only  medicine 
recommended,  and  the  best  restorative  after  calomel  and  India. 
The  Hindoos,  as  they  call  us  Indians  at  the  Cape,  approve  highly 
of  the  prescription.  The  Cape  horses,  which  are  fine,  and  the 
cows,  delighted  me  ;  there  were  some  excellent  and  strong  mules 
also.  The  delights  of  shore  after  having  been  cooped  up  in  a 
ship,  only  those  who  have  made  a  long  voyage  and  have  suffered 
from  mal  de  mer  can  understand  ;  or  the  pleasure  of  roaming  at 
large  on  the  quiet,  firm  earth,  the  sweet  smell  of  the  fields,  no 
bilge  water,  no  tar,  no  confinement. 

A  friend  of  mine,  a  Bengal  civihan,  gave  a  good  account  of 


316  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

an  expedition  he  made  into  the  interior  for  about  three  hundred 
miles  from  the  frontier  with  a  Madras  civilian.  They  got  deer 
in  abundance,  zebra,  and  Guinea  fowls,  and  saw  lions  in  flocks. 
Fancy  twelve  of  the  latter  gambhng  together  near  a  small  pool 
of  water.  They  travelled  in  a  waggon  drawn  by  twenty  bul- 
locks, and  took  three  Hottentot  boys  with  them  as  servants, 
and  fifteen  horses,  of  which  they  lost  all  but  one  by  theft  or 
accident.  He  did  not  go,  by  many  hundred  miles,  as  far  into 
the  interior  as  Mr.  Harris,  not,  in  fact,  into  the  hunting  ground 
for  elephants  and  camelopards  :  he  spoke  of  Harris's  work, 
which  is  very  interesting  :  he  knew  Mr.  Harris,  says  he  is  a  fine 
fellow,  and  from  what  he  saw  beUeves  his  accounts  to  be 
unexaggerated.     What  a  brilliant  country  for  sport ! 

One  of  the  gentlemen  of  this  party  broke  his  collar-bone : 
they  met  with  some  Itahans  who  came  to  them  for  protection  ; 
they  also  met  with  twelve  lions,  upon  which  they  made  off  and 
got  home  again  as  fast  as  they  could.  My  tale  is  a  lame  one  ; 
I  have  forgotten  their  adventures,  but  suppose  the  twelve  Uons 
did  not  eat  the  twenty  bullocks,  or  how  could  the  party  have 
got  home  again  ? 

7th. — Quitted  Cape  Town  on  a  fine  and  powerful  wind ;  we 
were  all  in  good  spirits  ;  the  change  had  done  us  good,  and  we 
had  gathered  fresh  patience — the  worst  part  of  the  voyage  was 
over — for  a  man  in  bad  health  what  a  trial  is  that  voyage  from 
Calcutta  to  the  Cape ! 

\2th. — Very  cold  weather :  this  frigate-built  ship  is  going 
nine  knots  an  hour,  and  rolling  her  main  chains  under  water. 
In  the  evening,  as  I  was  playing  with  the  children  on  deck  at 
oranges  and  lemons,  we  were  all  thrown  down  from  the  ship 
having  rolled  heavily  ;  her  mizen-top-gallant  mast  and  the  main- 
top-gallant mast  both  broke ;  one  spar  fell  overboard,  and  the 
broken  masts  hung  in  the  rigging. 

\Sth. — At  8  A.M.  we  arrived  at  St.  Helena  :  the  view  of  the 
island  is  very  impressive ;  it  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea — a 
mass  of  wild  rocks,  the  heavy  breakers  lashing  them ;  there 
appears  to  be  no  shore,  the  waves  break  directly  against  the 
rocks.     The  highest  point  is,  I  beUeve,  two  thousand  feet ;  the 


ST.    HELENA.  317 

island  appears  bare  and  desolate  as  you  approach  it.  A  white 
heavy  cloud  hung  over  the  highest  part  of  the  mountain ;  the 
morning  was  beautiful,  and  many  vessels  were  at  anchor.  I 
sketched  the  island  when  off  Barn's  Point.  The  poles  of  the 
flagstaffs  still  remain,  on  which  a  flag  was  hoisted  whenever  the 
emperor  appeared,  that  it  might  tell  of  his  whereabouts,  giving 
him  the  unpleasant  feeling  that  spies  were  perpetually  around 
him.  I  went  on  shore  in  a  bumboat  that  had  come  alongside 
with  shells.  Landing  is  difficult  at  times  when  the  waves  run 
high ;  if  you  were  to  miss  your  footing  on  the  jetty  from  the 
rising  and  sinking  of  the  boat,  you  would  fall  in,  and  there  would 
be  little  chance  of  your  being  brought  up  again.  There  are  only 
two  points  on  the  island  on  which  it  is  possible  to  land,  namely, 
this  jetty  and  one  place  on  the  opposite  side,  both  of  which  are 
strongly  guarded  by  artillery.  Batteries  bristle  up  all  over  the 
rock  like  quills  on  a  porcupine.  The  battery  on  the  top  of 
Ladder  Hill  may  be  reached  by  the  road  that  winds  up  its  side, 
or  by  the  perpendicular  ladder  of  six  hundred  and  thirty-six 
steps.  We  went  to  Mr.  Solomon's  Hotel,  and  ordered  a  late 
dinner ;  the  prices  at  his  shop  and  at  the  next  door  are  very 
high  :  he  asked  twelve  shillings  for  articles  which  I  had  pur- 
chased for  five  at  the  Cape. 

Procured  a  pass  for  the  tomb,  and  a  ticket  for  Longwood,  for 
which  we  paid  three  shillings  each.  Next  came  a  carriage 
drawn  by  two  strong  horses,  for  which  they  charged  three 
pounds.  We  ascended  the  hill  from  James's  Hotel ;  from  the 
summit,  as  you  look  down,  the  view  is  remarkably  beautiful ; 
the  town  lying  in  the  space  between  the  two  hills,  with  the 
ocean  in  front,  and  a  great  number  of  fine  vessels  at  anchor. 
The  roads  are  good,  and  where  they  run  by  the  side  of  a  pre- 
cipice, are  defended  by  stone  walls. 

The  tomb  of  the  emperor  is  situated  in  a  quiet  retired  spot  at 
the  foot  of  and  between  two  hills.  Three  plain  large  flag-stones, 
taken  from  the  kitchen  at  Longwood,  cover  the  remains  of 
Napoleon  :  there  is  no  inscription,  nor  does  there  need  one ;  the 
tomb  is  raised  about  four  inches  from  the  ground,  and  sur- 
rounded by  an  iron  palisade  formed  at  the  top  into  spearheads. 


318  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Within  the  palisade  is  still  seen  a  geranium,  planted  by  one  of 
the  ladies  who  shared  his  exile.  The  old  willow  has  fallen,  and 
lies  across  the  railing  of  the  tomb,  withered,  dead,  and  leafless. 
Many  young  willows  reared  from  the  old  tree  shade  the  tomb, 
and  every  care  is  taken  of  the  place  by  an  old  soldier,  who 
attends  to  open  the  gate,  and  who  offers  to  visitors  the  water 
from  the  stream  which  now  flows  out  of  the  hill  by  the  side  of 
the  tomb.  Its  course  was  formerly  across  the  spot  where  the 
tomb  is  now  placed ;  it  was  turned  to  the  side  to  render  it  less 
damp :  the  water  is  remarkably  pure,  bright,  and  tasteless.  It 
was  under  these  willows,  and  by  the  side  of  this  little  clear 
stream  that  Buonaparte  used  to  pass  his  days  in  reading,  and 
this  spot  he  selected  as  his  burial-place. 

A  book  is  here  kept  in  which  visitors  insert  their  names : 
many  pages  were  filled  by  the  French  with  lamentations  over 
their  emperor,  and  execrations  upon  the  English.  Many  people 
have  made  a  pilgrimage  from  France  to  visit  the  tomb,  and 
on  their  arrival  have  given  way  to  the  most  frantic  grief  and 
lamentations. 

Having  pleased  the  old  soldier  who  has  charge  of  the  tomb, 
with  a  present  in  return  for  some  slips  of  the  willow,  we  went 
to  a  small  and  neat  cottage  hard-by  for  grapes  and  refreshment. 
It  is  inhabited  by  a  respectable  widow,  who,  by  offering  refresh- 
ment to  visitors,  makes  a  good  income  for  herself  and  family. 
We  had  grapes,  peaches,  and  pears,  all  inferior,  very  inferior  to 
the  fruit  at  the  Cape.  After  tiflUn  we  proceeded  to  Longwood, 
and  passed  several  very  picturesque  points  on  the  road.  Around 
Longwood  there  are  more  trees,  and  the  appearance  of  the 
country  is  less  desolate  than  in  other  parts  of  the  island.  We 
were  first  taken  to  the  old  house  in  which  the  emperor  lived  ; 
it  is  a  wretched  place,  and  must  ever  have  been  the  same.  The 
room  into  which  you  enter  was  used  as  a  billiard-room :  the 
.  dining-room  and  the  study  are  wretched  holes.  The  emperor's 
bed-room  and  bath  is  now  a  stable.  In  the  room  in  which 
Buonaparte  expired  is  placed  a  corn-mill !  I  remember  having 
seen  a  picture  of  this  room :  the  body  of  the  emperor  was  lying 
near  the  window  from  which  the  light  fell  upon  the  face  of  the 


LONGwoon.  319 

corpse.  The  picture  interested  me  greatly  at  the  time,  and  was 
vividly  brought  to  my  recollection  as  I  stood  before  the  window, 
whilst  in  imagination  the  scene  passed  before  me.  How  great 
was  the  power  of  that  man !  with  what  jealous  care  the  English 
guarded  him !  No  wonder  the  women  used  to  frighten  their 
children  into  quietness  by  the  threat  that  Buonaparte  would 
come  and  eat  them  up,  when  the  men  held  him  in  such  awe. 
Who  can  stand  on  the  desolate  and  picturesque  spot  where  the 
emperor  lies  buried,  and  not  feel  for  him  who  rests  beneath  ? 
How  much  he  must  have  suffered  during  his  sentry- watched 
rambles  on  that  island,  almost  for  ever  within  hearing  of  the 
eternal  roar  of  the  breakers,  and  viewing  daily  the  vessels 
departing  for  Europe ! 

In  the  grounds  by  the  side  of  the  house  are  some  oak-trees 
planted  by  his  own  hands  ;  there  is  also  a  fish-pond,  near  which 
was  a  birdcage.  The  emperor  used  to  sit  here  under  the  firs,  but 
as  he  found  the  wind  very  bleak,  a  mud  wall  was  raised  to  protect 
the  spot  from  the  sharp  gales  of  the  sea.  After  the  death  of 
Napoleon  the  birdcage  sold  for  £175. 

We  quitted  the  old  house  and  went  to  view  the  new  one, 
which  was  incomplete  at  the  time  of  the  death  of  the  emperor ; 
had  he  lived  another  week  he  would  have  taken  possession  of  it. 
The  sight  of  this  house  put  me  into  better  humour  with  the 
English ;  in  going  over  the  old  one,  I  could  not  repress  a 
feeUng  of  great  disgust  and  shame.  The  new  house  is  hand- 
some and  well  finished  ;  and  the  apartments,  which  are  large  and 
comfortable,  would  have  been  a  proper  habitation  for  the  exiled 
emperor.  The  bath  daily  used  by  him  in  the  old  dwelling  has 
been  fitted  up  in  the  new  ;  every  thing  else  that  could  serve  as 
a  rehc  has  been  carried  away. 

In  the  grounds  were  some  curious  looking  gum-trees  covered 
with  long  shaggy  moss.  The  heat  of  the  day  was  excessive  ;  we 
had  umbrellas,  but  I  had  never  before  been  exposed  to  such 
heat,  not  even  in  India.  The  sea-breeze  refreshed  us,  but  the 
sun  raised  my  skin  like  a  blister ;  it  peeled  off  after  some  days 
quite  scorched. 

We  returned  to  dinner  at  Mr.  Solomon's  Hotel.     Soup  was 


320  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

placed  on  the  table.     Dr.  G said,  "This  soup  has  been 

made  of  putrid  meat."  "Oh  no,  Sir,"  said  the  waiter,  "the 
soup  is  very  good  ;  the  meat  smelt,  but  the  cook  took  it  all  out 
before  it  came  to  table !  "  A  rib  of  beef  was  produced  with  a 
flourish ;  it  was  like  the  soup, — we  were  very  glad  to  send  it  out 
of  the  room.  We  asked  to  see  the  landlord  ;  the  waiter  said 
he  was  over  at  the  mess :  we  desired  him  to  be  sent  for,  of 
course  supposing  he  was  sending  up  dinner  to  the  officers  of  a 
Scotch  regiment,  whose  bagpipe  had  been  stunning  our  ears, 
unaccustomed  to  the  silver  sound.  What  was  our  surprise 
when  we  found  the  hotel  and  shopkeeper  was  dining  with  the 
officers  of  the  regiment !  King's  officers  may  allow  of  this, 
but  it  would  never  be  permitted  at  the  mess  of  a  regiment 
of  the  Honourable  Company;  perhaps  his  being  sheriff 
formed  the  excuse.  It  was  too  late  to  procure  dinner  from 
another  house;  the  boatmen  would  wait  no  longer,  and  our 
hungry  party  returned  on  board  to  get  refreshment  from 
the  steward. 

The  night  was  one  of  extreme  beauty — the  scene  at  the  jetty 
under  the  rocks  was  delightful ;  the  everlasting  roar  of  the 
breakers  that  at  times  dash  over  the  parapet  wall,  united  with 
the  recollections  awakened  by  the  island,  all  produce  feelings 
of  seriousness  and  melancholy.  There  is  a  cavern  in  the  rock 
which  is  nejirly  full  at  high  water,  and  the  rush  into  and  retreat 
of  the  waves  from  that  hollow  is  one  cause  of  the  great  noise 
of  the  breakers. 

1 9th. — Birds  were  offered  for  sale  in  the  street ;  they  appeared 
very  beautiful ;  the  St.  Helena  red  birds,  the  avadavats.  Cape 
sparrows,  and  green  canaries  were  to  be  purchased.  T  dislike 
birds  in  a  cage,  although  I  took  home  four  parrots  from 
Calcutta,  two  of  which  died  off  the  Cape  during  the 
rolUng  and  pitching  of  that  uneasy  sea.  Quitted  St.  Helena 
at  10  A.M. 

Our  Indian  wars,  propped  up  by  the  old  bugbear  of  a  Russian 
invasion,  and  the  discovery  of  one  thing,  at  least,  the  intrigues 
of  Russian  emissaries,  seem  to  have  excited  more  than  usual 
interest  in  England,   Her  Most  Gracious  Majesty  having  been 


M.  LE  g6n6ral  allard.  321 

pleased  to  notice  our  preventive  movements  to  the  north-west 
in  her  speech  on  the  prorogation  of  the  House.  The  16th 
Lancers  are  amongst  the  fortunate  who  are  actually  to  return. 
All  speak  of  the  campaign  as  most  distressing  from  climate  and 
privation  of  all  sorts,  and  the  popular  king,  the  beloved  of  his 
subjects,  turns  out  to  be  as  popular  as  Louis  le  Desire.  In 
February  1839,  M.  le  General  Allard,  that  most  agreeable  and 
gentlemanlike  man,  died  at  Peshawar.  How  much  I  regretted 
that  circumstances  prevented  my  accepting  his  escort  and  invi- 
tation to  visit  Lahore !  I  should  have  enjoyed  seeing  the 
meeting  between  the  Governor- General  and  the  old  Cyclops 
Runjeet  Singh. 

We  have  received  a  letter  from  a  friend  in  the  1 6th  Lancers  ; 
he  says,  the  thermometer  is  1 08°  in  tents ;  that  they  have 
suffered  greatly,  both  man  and  horse,  for  want  of  supplies ;  that 
camp  followers  are  on  quarter,  and  the  troops  on  half  allowance, 
receiving  compensation  for  the  deficit.  The  army  set  out 
on  their  march  from  our  provinces  in  the  highest  spirits, 
dreaming  of  battle,  promotion,  and  prize-money, — they  are 
now  to  a  man  heartily  sick  of  a  campaign  which  promises 
nothing  but  loss  of  health — no  honour,  no  fight,  no  prize- 
money,  no  promotion. 

The  following  are  interesting  extracts  : — 

"  Jellalabad,  Oct.  28th,  1839. 

"  Soon  after  the  army  left  Shikerpur  in  the  end  of 
February,  our  difficulties  commenced ;  and  we  no  sooner  got 
on  the  limits  of  what  is  laid  down  in  the  maps  as  a  marshy 
desert,  than  we  suffered  from  a  very  great  scarcity  of  water,  and 
were  obliged  to  make  long  and  forced  marches  to  get  any  : 
through  the  Bolan  Pass  we  got  on  tolerably  well;  the  road 
winds  a  great  part  of  the  way  up  the  shingly  bed  of  a  river,  and . 
the  halting  places  were  like  the  sea-beach.  But  no  sooner 
had  we  arrived  at  Quetta,  in  the  Valley  of  Shawl,  than  the 
native  troops  and  camp  followers  suffered  in  earnest ;  the  former 
were  placed  on  an  allowance  of  half  a  seer,  and  the  latter  of  a 
quarter  daily ;  and  grain  was  selling  at  two  seers  for  a  rupee. 
VOL.  ir.  Y 


322  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

In  this  manner,  proceeding  more  like  a  beaten  army  than  an 
advancing  one,  the  cavalry  not  supplied  with  any  grain,  and 
falling  by  tens  and  twenties  daily,  we  reached  Candahar.  It 
has  always  appeared  to  me  a  mercy  that  we  had  up  to  this  point 
no  enemy  to  oppose  us.  We  remained  two  months  in  Can- 
dahar, where  we  recruited  a  good  deal  in  the  condition  of  our 
horses,  but  the  heat  was  excessive,  110°  in  our  tents,  and  the 
men  became  unhealthy.  From  Candahar  to  Ghuznee  we  got 
on  better,  and  the  storm  and  capture  of  that  fort  had  a  wonder- 
ful effect  on  our  spirits.  Ghuznee,  naturally  and  by  art  made  a 
very  strong  fortification,  was  most  gallantly  carried,  and  with 
very  trifling  loss  ;  the  cavalry  of  course  had  nothing  to  do,  nor 
have  we  through  the  campaign,  though  we  have  been  harassed 
and  annoyed  more  than  at  any  period  of  the  Peninsular  War. 
As  to  the  country  we  have  passed  through  from  the  Sir-i- 
Bolan  to  the  boundary  of  the  hot  and  cold  countries,  two 
marches  from  this  nearer  Cabul,  there  is  a  great  sameness,  with 
the  exception  of  the  outline  of  the  mountain  scenery,  which 
has  always  been  wild,  rugged,  and  magnificent ;  but  the  total 
absence  of  trees,  and  almost  entire  want  of  vegetation,  except- 
ing near  the  towns  of  Quetta,  Candahar,  and  Cabul,  and  some 
very  few  villages  situated  near  a  stream,  give  an  appearance  of 
desolation  to  the  whole  country  we  have  passed  through.  It 
may  be  described,  with  a  few  excepted  spots,  as  a  howling  wil- 
derness. With  the  people  I  have  been  much  disappointed  :  from 
what  I  had  read  in  Elphinstone  and  Burnes,  I  had  expected  to 
meet  a  fine  brave  patriotic  race,  instead  of  which,  to  judge  from 
what  we  have  seen,  they  are  a  treacherous,  avaricious,  and 
cowardly  set  of  people  ;  even  as  bands  of  robbers  and  murderers 
they  are  cowardly,  and  in  the  murders  of  poor  Inverarity  of  ours, 
and  Colonel  Herring,  it  appears  they  did  not  venture  an  attack, 
though  both  were  unarmed,  till  they  had  knocked  their  victims 
.  down  with  stones.  If  these  rascals  had  been  endowed  with 
courage  and  patriotism,  we  never  should  be  here.  I  should 
describe  the  Afghans  as  mean,  avaricious,  treacherous,  cowardly, 
filthy,  generally  plunderers  and  thieves,  and  universally  Uars, 
and  withal  extremely  religious.     No  one  has  ever  visited  Cabul 


LETTER  FROM  JELLALABAD.  323 

without  speaking  with  delight  of  its  streams,  and  mountains, 
and  gardens  extending  for  miles,  and  the  endless  quantities  of 
delicious  fruit  and  flowers  displayed  in  shops  through  the 
bazars,  with  a  degree  of  taste  that  would  be  no  discredit  to  a 
Covent  Garden  fruiterer.  Cabul  itself  is  situated  in  a  valley,  or 
rather  a  hole  in  a  valley,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  hills ;  the 
scenery  in  aU  directions  is  beautiful,  but  least  so  towards  Hindo- 
stan.  In  the  city  there  are  four  pakka  bazars,  arched,  and  the 
interior  decorated  with  paintings  of  trees  and  flowers  so  as  almost 
to  resemble  fresco.  The  surrounding  country  is  prodigiously 
fertile  and  excellently  cultivated;  the  fields  are  divided  by 
hedges  of  poplar  and  willow-trees  ;  and  for  the  first  time  since 
leaving  England,  I  have  seen  the  European  magpie.  On  the 
20th  of  August  we  lost  Colonel  Arnold,  who  had  long  remained 
almost  in  a  hopeless  state :  his  Uver  weighed  ten  pounds  ;  I  do 
not  think  he  ever  recovered  the  attack  he  had  when  you  were 
at  Meerut.  At  Colonel  Arnold's  sale,  sherry  sold  at  the  rate 
of  212  rupees  a  dozen ;  bottles  of  sauce  for  24  rupees  each, 
and  of  mustard  for  35  rupees.  At  Colonel  Herring's  sale, 
1000  9igars,  or  about  lib.,  sold  for  upwards  of  one  hundred 
guineas ! — this  will  tell  you  how  well  we  have  been  off"  for  such 
httle  luxuries.  We  left  Cabul  on  the  15th  inst.,  and  the 
following  morning,  passing  through  a  defile,  was  as  cold  a  one 
as  I  ever  felt  in  my  hfe ;  from  the  splashing  of  a  stream  the 
ice  formed  thickly  on  our  sword  scabbards  and  the  bottoms 
of  our  cloaks ;  and  now  the  heat  is  as  great  in  the  day  as  at 
Meerut, — such  are  the  vicissitudes  of  climate  in  this  country ! 

"The  Afghans,  in  their  own  traditions,  claim  descent  from 
Saul,  King  of  Israel,  and  the  ten  tribes ;  they  invariably  allow 
the  beard  to  grow,  and  shave  a  broad  stripe  down  the  centre  of 
the  head  ;  the  beard  gives  an  appearance  of  gravity  and  respec- 
tability to  the  lowest  of  the  people.  The  Afghans  are  good . 
horsemen,  and  appear  to  have  fine  hands  on  their  bridle ;  and 
they  never  tie  their  horses'  heads  down  with  a  martingale.  In 
this  country  there  is  a  strong  useful  description  of  horse,  which 
reins  up  well,  and  appears  to  go  pleasantly,  but  the  best  of 
these  are  brought  from  Herat.     Here  they  shoe  their  horses  with 

y2 


324  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

a  broad  plate  of  iron,  covering  the  whole  sole  of  the  foot,  with 
the  exception  of  the  frog. 

"  What  I  have  said  of  the  Afghans  of  Candahar  will  apply 
to  all  we  have  seen ;  but  perhaps  at  Cabul  the  men  may  be 
shorter  and  more  thickly  set.  I  have  never  seen  a  more  hardy, 
sturdy-looking,  or  more  muscular  race,  and  the  deep  pome- 
granate complexion  gives  a  manly  expression  to  the  countenance. 
Of  the  women  we  have  seen  nothing,  but  hear  they  are  beau- 
tiful ;  those  taken  at  Ghuznee  were  certainly  not  so ;  they  are 
frequently  met  walking  in  the  city,  or  riding  on  horseback 
seated  behind  a  man,  but  universally  so  closely  veiled  that  you 
cannot  detect  a  feature  of  the  face,  or  in  the  slightest  degree 
trace  the  outline  of  the  figure.  It  is  a  pity  Dost  Muhammad 
was  not  selected  as  our  puppet  king,  for  Shah  Sujah  is  neither  a 
gentleman  nor  a  soldier,  and  he  is  highly  unpopular  among  his 
subjects,  who — but  for  our  support — would  soon  knock  him  off 
his  perch. 

"  My  squadron  was  on  picquet  near  a  village  surrounded  with 
gardens,  with  a  clear  rapid  stream  of  water  running  through  it ; 
and  in  this  village,  between  two  or  three  miles  north-east  of 
Ghuznee,  is  the  tomb  of  the  great  Shah  Mahmoud,  which  has 
stood  upwards  of  eight  hundred  years,  and  which  is  an  object  of 
particular  veneration  to  all  true  believers.  The  entrance  from 
the  village  is  by  a  low  coarse  door-way,  which  leads  to  a  small 
garden ;  a  paved  footway  conducts  to  an  arched  building,  unde- 
serving of  notice :  on  either  side  the  footpath  are  hollowed 
figures  of  sphinxes  in  white  marble,  and  seemingly  of  great 
antiquity,  and  through  these  sphinxes  water  used  to  flow 
from  the  mouth  ;  above  them  also,  there  were  other  small 
fountains.  From  the  building  I  have  mentioned,  a  rudely 
constructed  vault  or  passage — a  kind  of  cloister — leads  to 
another  small  garden,  at  the  end  of  which  stands  the  mausoleum 
of  the  Sultan  Mahmoud,  the  doors  of  which  are  said  to  have 
been  brought  by  the  Sultan  as  a  trophy  from  the  famous  Hindoo 
temple  of  Somnaut,  in  Guzerat,  which  he  sacked  in  his  last 
expedition  to  India ;  they  are  of  sandal-wood,  curiously  carved, 
and,  considering  their   very   great   age,    in   fine   preservation, 


THE   GATES   OF    SOMNAUT.  325 

although  they  have  in  two  or  three  places  been  coarsely  repaired 
with  common  wood.  These  doors  are,  I  should  think,  about 
twelve  feet  high  and  fifteen  feet  broad ;  and  are  held  in  such 
estimation,  though  it  is  upwards  of  eight  hundred  years  since 
they  were  removed  from  Guzerat,  that,  it  is  said,  Runjeet  Singh 
made  it  one  of  his  conditions  to  assist  Shah  Siijah  in  a  former 
expedition,  that  he  should  give  up  the  sandal-wood  gates  ;  but 
this  was  indignantly  rejected.  In  truth,  I  saw  nothing  particular 
about  these  doors,  and  if  I  had  not  been  told  of  their  age,  and 
of  their  being  of  sandal- wood,  I  should  have  passed,  taking 
them  for  deal,  and  merely  observed  their  carving.  Over  the 
doors  are  a  very  large  pair  of  stag's  horns  (spiral),  and  four 
knobs  of  mud,  which  are  the  wonder  of  all  true  Musalmans, 
who  firmly  believe  in  the  miracle  of  their  having  remained 
uninjured  and  unrepaired  for  so  many  centuries.  The  mausoleum 
itself  can  boast  of  no  architectural  beauty,  and  is  very  coarsely 
constructed.  The  tombstone  is  of  white  marble,  on  which  are 
sculptured  Arabic  verses  from  the  koran,  and  various  coloured 
flags  are  suspended  over  it,  so  as  to  protect  it  from  dust. 
Against  the  wall  at  the  head  of  the  tomb  is  nailed  up  the 
largest  tiger's  skin  I  ever  saw,  though  it  had  evidently  been 
stretched  lengthwise.  When  the  picquet  was  relieved  I  rode 
into  Ghuznee  by  the  Cabul  road,  by  the  side  of  which,  at  some 
distance  from  each  other,  are  two  lofty  minarets, — one,  I  should 
think,  one  hundred,  and  the  other  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
in  height :  these  are  built  of  variously-shaped  bricks,  elaborately 
worked  in  various  devices :  the  base  of  both  these  pillars  is 
octangular,  and  rises  to  half  the  height,  looking  as  if  it  had 
been  built  round  the  pillar  itself,  which  is  circular  ;  or  as  if  the 
pillar  had  been  stuck  into  this  case :  the  easternmost  pillar  is 
the  highest  and  most  elaborately  decorated.  I  think  I  before 
observed  that  these  minarets  at  a  distance  look  like  prodigious 
eau-de-cologne  bottles.  The  mausoleum  of  Sultan  Mahmoud, 
and  these  minarets,  are  now  the  only  remains  of  the  ancient 
city  of  Ghuznee ;  and  nothing  further  exists  to  show  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  Ghuznee  kings,  or  to  mark  the  former  site 


326  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

of  a  city  which  eight  centuries  ago  was  the  capital  of 
a  kingdom,  reaching  from  the  Tigris  to  the  Ganges,  and 
from  the  Jaxartes  to  the  Persian  Gulf.  The  present  town 
is  computed  to  contain  about  six  hundred  miserable  houses. 
So  much  for  greatness ! — Such  in  the  East  is  the  lapse  of 
mighty  empires." 


CHAPTER   LX. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ST.  HELENA. 

Quitted  St.  Helena — The  Polar  Star — Drifting  Seaweed — The  Paroquets — 
Worship  of  Birds — A  Gale — The  Orange  Vessel — The  Pilot  Schooner — 
Landing  at  Plymouth — First  Impressions — A  Mother's  Welcome — The  Mail 
Coach — The  Queen's  Highway — Dress  of  the  English — Price  of  Prepared 
Birds — The  Railroads  —The  New  Police^English  Horses — British  Museum 
— Horticultural  Show — Umberslade — Tanworth  —  Conway  Castle — Welsh 
Mutton — Church  of  Conway — Tombstone  of  Richard  Hookes,  Gent. — The 
Menai  Bridge — Dublin — Abbeyleix — Horns  of  the  Elk — Penny  Postage — 
Steam-Engines — Silver  Firs — Moonal  Pheasants — The  Barge  run  down — 
Chapel  of  Pennycross — The  Niger  Expedition — Schwalbach — Family  Sor- 
rows^ — Indian  News — The  Birth  of  the  Chimna  Raja  Sahib — Captain  Sturt's 
Sketches — Governor  Lin — The  Baiza  Ba'I  consents  to  reside  at  Nassuk — Fire 
in  her  Camp — Death  of  Sir  Henry  Fane — Church  built  by  Subscription  at 
Allahabad — Governor  Lin's  Button — The  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior  marches  to 
Nassuk — Price  of  a  Gentleman — Death  of  the  old  Shepherd  from  Hydro- 
phobia— Pedigree  of  Jumni,  the  Invaluable. 

1839,  March  \Qth. — A  fine  and  favourable  breeze  bore  the 
"  Madagascar  "  from  St.  Helena,  and  gave  us  hopes  of  making 
the  remainder  of  the  voyage  in  as  short  a  space  of  time  as  that  in 
which  the  first  part  had  been  accomplished.  The  only  really  good 
fruit  we  got  at  James's  Town  was  the  plantain.  Some  mackerel 
was  baked  and  pickled  on  board,  but  we  were  recommended  not 
to  eat  it  after  the  first  day,  as  the  St.  Helena  mackerel,  if  kept, 
is  reckoned  dangerous. 

April  Wth. — How  glad  I  was  to  see  the  polar  star,  visible  the 
first  time  this  evening !  I  thought  of  my  dear  mother,  and  how 
often  we  had  watched  it  together  ;  and  the  uncertainty  of  what 


328  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

might  have  occurred  during  my  voyage  to  the  dear  ones  at  home 
rendered  me  nervous  and  very  unhappy.  The  southern  hemi- 
sphere does  not  please  me  as  much  as  the  northern ;  the  stars 
appear  more  briUiant  and  larger  in  the  north. 

\8th. — The  ship  was  passing  through  quantities  of  seaweed, 
supposed  to  be  drifted  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  it  is  always 
found  in  this  latitude.  The  children  amused  themselves  with 
writing  letters  to  their  mother,  and  sending  them  overboard, 
corked  up  in  empty  bottles. 

May  7th. — Polidorus,  the  great  pet  parrot,  died ;  the  pitching 
of  the  vessel  and  the  cramp  killed  the  bird,  in  spite  of  the 
warmth  of  flannel :  of  our  four  birds  one  only  now  survived ; 
and  very  few  remained  of  tw^enty-four  paroquets  brought  on 
board  by  the  crew.  A  flight  of  paroquets  in  India,  with  their 
bright  green  wings  and  rose-coloured  necks,  is  a  beautiful  sight. 

The  education  of  a  paroquet  is  a  long  and  a  serious  affair ; 
a  native  will  take  his  bird  on  his  finger  daily,  and  repeat  to  it 
incessantly,  for  an  hour  or  two  at  a  time,  the  name  of  the  deity 
he  worships,  or  some  short  sentence,  until  the  bird — hearing  the 
same  sounds  every  day  for  weeks  or  months  together — remem- 
bers and  imitates  them.  If  in  a  cage,  it  is  covered  over  with  a 
cloth,  that  the  attention  of  the  birds  may  not  be  diverted  from 
the  sounds  :  sometimes  a  native  will  let  the  bird  down  a  well 
for  an  hour  or  two,  that  it  may  be  in  darkness,  while,  lying  on 
the  top  of  the  well,  he  repeats  the  daily  lesson. 

Many  birds  are  worshipped  by  the  Hindus,  of  which  the 
principal  is  Guroorii,  whose  feathers  are  of  gold,  with  the  head 
and  wings  of  a  bird,  and  the  rest  of  his  body  like  a  man,  the 
vahan  of  Vishnu,  who  rides  on  his  back  ;  and  at  times,  the  bird 
god,  in  the  shape  of  a  flag,  sits  on  the  top  of  Vishnii's  car, — 
the  lord  of  the  feathered  tribe,  the  devourer  of  serpents. 
When  the  Hindus  lie  down  to  sleep  they  repeat  the  name  of 
Guroorii  three  times,  to  obtain  protection  from  snakes. 
•  The  bird  Jiitayoo  is  the  friend  of  Rama,  and  is  worshipped  at 
the  same  festival  with  him. 

The  Shimkurii  Chillii,  the  eagle  of  Coromandel,  the  white- 
headed  kite,  commonly  called  the  Brahmani  kite,  is  considered 


A    GALE A    PAHARl    DRESS.  329 

an  incarnation  of  Durga,  and  is  reverenced  by  the  Hindus,  who 
bow  to  it  whenever  it  passes  them. 

Khunjunu,  the  wagtail,  is  a  form  of  Vishnu,  on  account  of 
the  mark  on  its  throat,  supposed  to  resemble  the  Shalgrama. 
The  Hindus  honour  it  in  the  same  way  they  do  the  eagle  of 
Coromandel. 

The  peacock,  the  goose,  and  the  owl,  are  worshipped  at  the 
festivals  of  Kartikii,  Briimha,  and  Lukshmee.  If,  however,  the 
owl,  the  vulture,  or  any  other  unclean  bird,  perch  upon  the 
house  of  an  Hindu,  it  is  an  unlucky  omen,  and  the  effect  must 
be  removed  by  the  performance  of  an  expiatory  ceremony. 

8fA. — A  heavy  gale  with  squalls, — it  continued  three  days  ; 
we  were  under  storm-sails,  the  sea  washing  over  the  guns.  It 
was  a  beautiful  sight,  the  waves  were  like  a  wall  on  one  side  of 
the  ship,  the  wind  was  contrary,  and  the  wearing  round  the 
vessel  in  a  heavy  sea  was  extremely  interesting  to  me,  from  not 
having  been  at  sea  so  long.  While  the  storm  was  blowing  I 
thought  of  all  the  idols  in  the  hold, — of  Ganesh,  and  Ram, 
and  Krishnjee,  and  felt  a  httle  alarm  lest  the  "  Madagascar  "  in 
a  fit  of  iconoclastic  fury,  should  destroy  all  my  curiosities.  In 
such  a  gale,  to  appear  on  deck  in  the  attire  usually  worn  by  an 
Enghsh  lady  was  impossible — delicacy  forbad  it ;  therefore  I  put 
on  my  Paharl  dress,  and  went  out  to  enjoy  the  gale.  As  I 
passed  on  to  the  poop  I  overheard  the  following  remarks  :  "  I 
say.  Jack,  is  that  ere  a  man  or  a  woman?"  to  which  the  sailor 
replied,  "  No,  you  fool,  it's  a  foreigner."  On  another  man's 
asking  "  Who  is  it  ?"  he  received  for  answer,  "  That  ere  lancer 
in  the  aft-cabin."  The  black  velvet  cap,  somewhat  in  appear- 
ance like  a  college  or  lancer  cap,  perhaps  inspired  the  bright 
idea,  as  the  dress  itself  is  particularly  feminine  and  picturesque, 
and  only  remarkable  on  account  of  its  singularity. 

1 1  th. — The  gale  abated,  leaving  a  strong  contrary  wind  and  a 
heavy  sea.  We  passed  a  small  vessel, — merely  a  large  boat 
battened  down ;  she  was  from  Lisbon,  bound  to  London ;  the 
men  wore  high  leather  boots  reaching  above  their  knees  ;  every 
wave  broke  over  her,  and  ran  out  on  the  other  side, — it  was  a 
fearful  sea  for  such  a  little  vessel.     Four  men  were  on  board  ; 


330  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

they  hailed  us  to  know  the  latitude  and  longitude,  and  found 
their  calculations  erroneous.  The  captain  invited  the  master  on 
board  ;  they  threw  overboard  a  cockle-shell  of  a  boat,  in  which 
the  master  and  one  of  the  men  came  alongside  :  it  was  beautiful 
and  fearful  to  see  that  little  boat  on  the  waves, — they  were  still 
so  tempestuous.  The  two  men  came  on  deck  ;  the  master  was 
the  finest  specimen  of  the  veteran  sailor  I  ever  beheld, — a  strong, 
fine  man,  weather-beaten  until  his  face  looked  like  leather,  frank 
and  good-humoured, — he  pleased  us  all  very  much.  They  had 
been  beating  about  where  they  then  were  for  the  last  fortnight, 
and  had  had  hard  work  of  it.  We  exchanged  spirits  and  tobacco 
for  delicious  Lisbon  oranges,  and  all  parties  were  pleased.  The 
old  sailor  returned  in  the  cockle-shell  to  the  larger  boat,  and  we 
all  watched  his  progress  with  interest ;  they  puUed  her  in,  and 
we  soon  bade  adieu  to  the  orange  vessel. 

ISth. — For  some  time  we  had  been  busy  arranging  for  going 
on  shore,  which  I  determined  to  do  if  possible  at  Plymouth ; 
therefore  my  packages  of  curiosities  were  got  up, — at  least  as 
many  as  I  thought  I  could  take  with  me,  being  nine  chests  ;  and 
all  the  buffalo  and  stags'  horns  were  in  readiness.  About  thirty- 
five  miles  from  Plymouth  a  pilot  vessel  came  alongside,  and  we 
calculated  on  landing  in  her  in  four  hours.  At  5  p.m.,  having 
taken  leave  of  the  captain,  who  had  shown  us  the  greatest 
attention  during  the  voyage,  we  went — a  large  party — on  board 
the  pilot  vessel :  no  sooner  did  we  enter  her  than  the  wind 
changed,  the  rain  fell,  it  was  very  cold ;  we  were  forced  to  go 
below  into  a  smoky  cabin,  the  children  squalled,  and  we  all 
passed  a  most  wretched  night. 

I4th. — ^We  arrived  at  6  a.m.  May-flowers  and  sunshine  were 
in  my  thoughts.  It  was  bitterly  cold  walking  up  from  the  boat, 
— rain,  wind  and  sleet,  mingled  together,  beat  on  my  face.  I 
thought  of  the  answer  of  the  French  ambassador  to  one  of  the 
attaches,  who  asked  why  the  Tower  guns  were  firing, — "  Mon 
ami,  c'est  peut-6tre  qu'on  voit  le  soleil." 

Every  thing  on  landing  looked  so  wretchedly  mean,  especially 
the  houses,  which  are  built  of  slate  stone,  and  also  slated 
down  the  sides  ;  it  was  cold  and  gloomy  ; — no  wonder  on  first 


A  mother's  welcome.  331 

landing  I  felt  a  little  disgusted.  I  took  a  post-chaise,  and  drove 
to  the  house  of  that  beloved  parent  for  whose  sake  I  had  quitted 
the  Hills,  and  had  come  so  far.  The  happiness  of  those 
moments  must  be  passed  over  in  silence  :  she  laid  back  the  hair 
from  my  forehead,  and  looking  earnestly  at  me,  said, — "My 
child,  I  should  never  have  known  you, — you  look  so  anxious,  so 
careworn  !"  No  wonder, — for  years  and  anxiety  had  done  their 
work. 

The  procession  from  the  Custom  House  was  rather  amusing ; 
the  natural  curiosities  passed  free,  and  as  the  buffalo  and  stag- 
horns  were  carried  through  the  streets,  the  people  stopped  to 
gaze  and  wonder  at  their  size.  Having  left  my  young  friends  in 
the  "  Madagascar,"  it  was  necessary  to  go  to  town  to  receive  them. 
I  went  up  in  the  mail  from  Devonport ;  its  fine  horses  pleased  me 
very  much,  and  at  every  change  I  was  on  the  look  out  for  the 
fresh  ones.  We  went  on  an  average  ten  miles  an  hour.  One 
gentleman  was  in  the  mail.  I  was  delighted  with  the  sides  of  the 
hedges  covered  with  primroses,  heatherbells,  and  wild  hyacinths 
in  full  bloom  ;  nor  could  I  repress  my  admiration  ;  "  Oh !  what 
a  beautiful  Icine !  "  "A  lane !"  said  the  man  with  frowning  asto- 
nishment, "  this  is  the  Queen's  high-way."  I  saw  the  error  I 
had  committed  ;  but  who  could  suppose  so  narrow  a  road  between 
two  high  banks  covered  with  primroses,  was  the  Queen's  high- 
way ?  Every  thing  looked  on  so  small  a  scale ;  but  every  thing 
brought  with  it  dehght.  When  the  gruff  gentleman  quitted  the 
mail,  he  gathered  and  gave  me  a  bunch  of  primroses ;  with 
them  and  a  bouquet  of  lilies  of  the  valley  I  was  quite  happy, 
flying  jilong  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  in  five  minutes.  In  the  cold 
of  the  raw  dark  morning  they  took  me  out  of  the  mail  thirty 
mUes  from  London,  and  placed  me  in  a  large  coach,  divided  into 
six  stalls,  somewhat  Uke  those  of  a  cathedral :  a  lamp  was 
burning  above,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  going  through  a 
long,  dark,  dreary  tunnel.  It  was  very  cold,  and  I  felt  much 
disgusted  with  the  great  fearful-looking  monster  of  a  thing 
called  a  train :  in  a  short  time  we  were  at  the  end  of  the  thirty 
miles,  and  I  found  myself  once  again  in  London.  On  my 
arrival  I  was  exceedingly  fatigued ;  all  the  way  from  Landowr 


332  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

I  had  met  with  nothing  so  overcoming  as  that  day  and  night 
journey  from  Devonport  to  town.  To  every  person  on  a  return 
from  India,  all  must  appear  small  by  comparison.  Devonshire, 
that  I  had  always  heard  was  so  hilly,  appeared  but  little  so  ;  and 
although  I  was  charmed  with  a  part  of  the  drive  from  Devon- 
port  to  Exeter,  with  the  richness  of  the  verdure,  and  the  fine 
cows  half  hidden  in  rich  high  grass,  and  the  fat  sheep,  still 
I  was  disappointed — Devon  was  not  as  hilly  a  country  as  I  had 
fancied.  Oh  the  beauty  of  those  grass  fields,  filled  as  they 
were  with  buttercups  and  daisies !  During  seventeen  years  I  had 
seen  but  one  solitary  buttercup !  and  that  was  presented  to  me 
by  Colonel  Everest  in  the  Hills.  The  wild  flowers  were 
deUghtful,  and  the  commonest  objects  were  sources  of  the 
greatest  gratification.  I  believe  people  at  times  thought  me 
half  mad,  being  unable  to  understand  my  deUght. 

At  the  time  I  quitted  England  it  was  the  fashion  for  ladies  to 
wear  red  cloaks  in  the  winter, — and  a  charming  fashion  it  was : 
the  red  or  scarlet  seen  at  a  distance  lighted  up  and  warmed  the 
scenery ; — it  took  from  a  winter's  day  half  its  dulness.  The  poor 
people,  who  always  imitate  the  dress  of  those  above  them,  wore 
red,  which  to  the  last  retained  a  gay  and  warm  appearance,  how- 
ever old  or  threadbare.  On  my  return  all  the  women  were 
wearing  grey,  or  more  commonly  very  dark  blue  cloaks.  How 
ugly,  dull,  dingy,  and  dirty,  the  country  people  generally  looked 
in  them !  even  when  perfectly  new  they  had  not  the  pleasant 
and  picturesque  effect  of  the  red  garment. 

In  Wales  I  was  pleased  to  see  the  women  in  black  hats,  such 
as  men  usually  wear,  with  a  white  frilled  cap  underneath  them  : 
it  was  national,  but  not  a  red  cloak  was  to  be  seen. 

What  can  be  more  ugly  than  the  dress  of  the  English?  I 
have  not  seen  a  graceful  girl  in  the  kingdom :  girls  who  would 
otherwise  be  graceful  are  so  pinched  and  lashed  up  in  corsets, 
they  have  all  and  every  one  the  same  stiff"  dollish  appearance ; 
and  that  dollish  form  and  gait  is  what  is  considered  beautiful ! 
Look  at  the  outline  of  a  figure ;  the  corset  is  ever  before  you  ; 
In  former  days  the  devil  on  two  sticks  was  a  favourite  pastime. 
The  figure  of  the  European  fair  one  is  not  unlike  that  toy.   Then 


THE    RAILROADS — THE    NEW    POLICE.  333 

the  bustle, — what  an  invention  to  deform  the  shape !  It  is  a  pity 
there  is  no  costume  in  England  as  on  the  Continent  for  the 
different  grades  in  society.  Look  at  the  eyes  of  the  women  in 
church, — are  they  not  generally  turned  to  some  titled  fair  one, 
or  to  some  beautiful  girl,  anxious  to  catch  the  mode  of  dressing 
the  hair,  or  the  tye  of  a  ribbon,  that  they  may  all  and  each 
imitate  the  reigning  fashion,  according  to  the  wealth  they  may 
happen  to  possess  ?  This  paltry  and  wretched  mimickry  would 
be  done  away  with  if  every  grade  had  a  fixed  costume. 

I  went  to  Mr.  Greville's,  Bond  Street,  to  look  at  some  birds, 
and  took  a  list  of  his  prices,  which  I  have  annexed,  with  those  of 
Mr.  Drew,  a  bird-stuffer  at  Plymouth'.  My  scientific  friends 
preferred  the  birds  in  the  state  in  which  they  came  from  India, 
therefore  they  remain  in  statu  quo. 

Of  all  the  novelties  I  have  beheld  since  my  return,  the  rail- 
roads are  the  most  surprising,  and  have  given  me  the  best  idea 
of  the  science  of  the  present  century.  The  rate  at  which  a 
long,  black,  smoking  train  moves  is  wonderful ;  and  the  passing 
another  train  is  absolutely  startling.  The  people  at  the  stations 
are  particularly  civil ;  there  is  no  annoyance,  all  is  pleasant  and 
well  conducted.  From  the  velocity  with  which  you  move,  all 
near  objects  on  the  side  of  the  railroad  look  hke  any  thing 
turned  quickly  on  a  lathe, — all  long  stripes ;  you  cannot  dis- 
tinguish the  stones  from  the  ground,  or  see  the  leaves  sepa- 
rately, all  run  in  lines  from  the  velocity  with  which  at  full 
speed  you  pass  near  objects.  The  New  Pohce,  now  so  weU 
regulated,  also  attracted  notice  ;  their  neat  uniform  renders  them 
conspicuous ;  a  wonderful  improvement  on  the  watchmen  of 
former  days.  The  beautiful  flowers,  the  moss-roses,  and  the 
fine  vegetables  in  town  were  most  pleasing  to  the  eye.  The 
height  of  the  carriage  horses  in  the  Park  attracted  my  attention  ; 
they  are  fine,  powerful  animals,  but  their  necks  are  flat,  and 
their  heads  generally  appeared  very  coarse.  They  wanted  the 
arched  neck  and  the  fire  of  the  horses  of  India. 

'  Appendix,  No.  34. 


334  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Visited  the  Britisli  Museum  ;  the  new  rooms  that  have  been 
added  are  handsome,  and  well  filled  with  Egyptian  curiosities ; 
mummies  in  crowds,  and  very  fine  ones.  The  Elgin  marbles,  in 
a  handsome  hall,  are  also  shown  to  great  advantage.  My  col- 
lection of  Hindoo  idols  is  far  superior  to  any  in  the  Museum ; 
and  as  for  Gunesh,  they  never  beheld  such  an  one  as  mine,  even 
in  a  dream  !  Nor  have  they  any  horns  that  will  compare  with 
those  of  my  buffalo,  or  birds  to  vie  with  my  eagles,  which  are 
superb.  I  was  in  town  when  a  fog  came  on  at  10  a.m.  in  the 
month  of  October,  which  rendered  candles,  or  gas-lights  neces- 
sary ;  it  was  as  deep  as  the  yellow  haze  that  precedes  a  tufan 
in  the  East. 

At  the  horticultural  show  at  Plymouth,  I  was  glad  to  see  the 
kulga  (amaranthus  tricolor),  which  not  only  ornamented  my 
garden  in  the  East,  but  was  used  as  spinach,  sag.  How  often 
have  we  shot  off  the  head  of  this  plant  with  a  pellet  ball,  not 
only  for  amusement,  but  to  improve  it,  as  all  the  lower  heads 
then  increased  in  size,  became  variegated,  and  the  plant  im- 
proved in  beauty.  The  kala  datura,  and  the  datura  metel,  were 
also  there ;  and  my  old  friends,  the  oleanders,  looking  slender 
and  sickly.  I  went  to  the  place  alone,  and  the  people  expressed 
their  surprise  at  my  having  done  so — how  absurd  !  as  if  I  were 
to  be  a  prisoner  unless  some  lady  could  accompany  me— wah! 
wah !  I  shall  never  be  tamed,  I  trust,  to  the  ideas  of  propriety 
of  civilized  Lady  Log. 

Oct.  26fA— "Visited  Umberslade ;  this  ancient  seat  of  the 
Archer  family  is  about  fifteen  miles  from  Leamington  in 
Warwickshire.  The  view  of  the  house  and  grounds  is  good 
from  the  obelisk  ;  the  latter  leans  fearfully,  and  totters  to  its  fall. 
The  mansion  is  a  fine  old  handsome  square  building,  cased  in 
stone,  and  balustraded  around  the  flat  roof  with  the  same 
material.  We  proceeded  to  the  church  of  Tanworth,  and 
inspected  the  monuments  of  the  family.  Thence  we  visited 
'"  The  Butts ;"  a  farm-house  is  now  called  by  that  name,  of 
course;   the  place  was  formerly  the  archery  ground. 

My  love  of  beautiful  scenery,  the  faint  remembrance  I  retained 


CONWAY    CASTLE.  335 

of  the  mountains  of  Wales,  and  the  wandering  propensities  inhe- 
rent in  my  nature,  added  to  a  desire  to  revisit  Conway,  because 
the  pilgrim  was  born  within  the  walls,  induced  me  to  go  into 
Wales. 

Dec.  4th. — The  entrance  to  Conway  from  a  distance  is  very 
beautiful ;  it  has  finer  hills  around  it  than  you  would  be  led  to 
suppose,  judging  by  the  views  generally  taken  of  the  castle  ;  the 
suspension-bridge  is  handsome,  and  in  keeping  with  the  ancient 
building.  I  visited  the  old  ruin,  which  afforded  me  the  greatest 
pleasure,  and  went  over  the  ancient  walls  that  encompass  the 
town  ;  there  are  fifty  picturesque  points  of  view  in  Conway. 

Darkness  coming  on,  I  took  refuge  at  the  Castle  Inn,  a  good, 
comfortable,  and  very  clean  house :  my  dinner  consisted  of  a 
leg  of  the  most  delicious  Welsh  mutton,  for  which  Conway  is 
especially  famed,  and  which  is  more  like  our  gram  fed  mutton  in 
the  East,  than  any  I  have  tasted  :  the  English  sheep  are  gene- 
rally large,  fat,  and  very  coarse ;  and  the  mutton  is  decidedly 
inferior  to  that  of  India.  A  troutlet  fresh  from  the  river  was 
excellent ;  the  Welsh  ale  good,  and  the  cheerful  fire  was  most 
agreeable. 

5th. — I  discovered  William  Thomas,  an  old  servant,  who 
formerly  Uved  with  my  grandmother ;  he  keeps  a  small  inn : 
the  man  was  very  glad  to  see  one  of  the  family,  and  he  became 
my  escort  to  the  house  in  which  I  was  born,  which  having  been 
sold  by  my  father,  is  now  the  property  of  the  Castle  Inn.  I 
went  over  it :  in  the  room  formerly  my  nursery  were  a  couple  of 
twins,  and  the  landlady  wished  me  to  take  lodgings  there,  saying 
they  would  be  very  cheap  in  the  winter.  I  could  not  find  a 
harper  in  Conway  ;  it  being  the  winter  season,  the  only  one  they 
appear  to  have  had  quitted  the  place ;  he  is  there  during  the 
summer,  when  visitors  are  plentiful.  Nor  could  I  even  see  a 
Welsh  harp,  which  they  tell  me  differs  from  all  other  instru-. 
ments  of  the  same  kind.  With  great  pleasure  I  revisited  the 
old  castle,  admired  the  great  hall,  and  the  donjon  keep ;  the 
pilgrim  was  not  born  in  the  latter,  but  in  "the  flanking  walls 
that  round  it  sweep,"  that  is,  within  the  walls  of  Conway.  The 
ivy  which  covers  the  castle  walls   in  the  richest  profusion  is 


336 


WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 


remarkably  fine,  the  wall-flowers  most  fragrant.  Irish  ivy  is 
however  larger  and  finer.     The  well-known  lines — 

"  On  a  rock  whose  haughty  brow 
Frowns  o'er  old  Conway's  foaming  flood" 

present  to  the  imagination  an  idea  of  a  grandeur  of  rock  and 
waterfall  that  you  do  not  find  near  the  castle.  Old  Conway's 
"  foaming  flood"  is  a  small  river  flowing  close  to  the  rocky  site 
on  which  the  castle  is  built ;  the  rock  is  of  slate  stone,  and  in 
digging  for  slate  some  hundred  years  ago  the  foundation  of  one 
of  the  old  towers  was  undermined,  and  a  part  fell  in  ;  the  work 
was  stopped,  and  the  old  castle  is  still  in  fine  preser\'ation.  The 
oriel  window  in  the  Queen's  tower  is  to  be  admired,  and  the 
banquet-hall  must  have  been  very  handsome.  Quitting  the 
castle  I  went  to  the  church,  —  a  very  handsome  old  one,  if 
viewed  from  within,  and  very  old  and  curious  if  viewed  exter- 
nally. It  contains  some  ancient  and  curious  monuments  :  on  a 
flat  stone  in  the  chancel  the  name  of  Archer  attracted  my 
attention  ;  on  it  is  this  inscription : — 

Here  lyeth  y^  body  op 

Rich*"  Hookes  of  Conway 

Gent — who   was  the  41"  child 

of  his  father  W™  Hookes 

Esq"  by  Alice  his  wife 

AND    Y'    father    of    27    CHILDREN 

WHO   DIED    Y«    20    DAY    OF    MARl  H 

1631 

N.B.  This  stone  was  re- 
vived  IN    THE    year    1720 
ATT    Y'   CHAR  tf^  GE    OF    JOHN 

Hookes  ^^^^^    Esq" 

AND    SINCE    BY    Tho' 

Bradley  and  W"  Archer  Esq'^^' 

•  I  find  this  Richard  Hookes  was  a  relation  of  the  Archers, 
which  accounts  for  their  care  in  reviving  this  curious  account  of 
the  number  of  his  family.  In  the  street,  a  little  above  the 
Hotel,  is  a  large  and  handsome  house,  called  the  Plas  nwyd,  or 


DUBLIN.  337 

new  palace ;  the  ai'ms  of  the  family  to  whom  it  belongs  are 
carved  on  the  chimney-pieces,  and  on  the  ceihngs.  On  going 
down  to  the  quay  I  found  it  was  high  tide ;  several  small  vessels 
were  there.  The  walls  of  Conway,  and  the  castle,  and  the 
suspension  bridge,  look  well  from  this  point.  Next  to  the 
gateway  is  a  large  house,  the  property  of  the  Erskines :  the 
library  is  in  the  tower  of  the  gateway ;  it  is  now  deserted,  and 
falling  to  decay,  but  must  have  been  a  pleasant  residence. 

Quitted  Conway  on  my  road  to  Ireland.  Aber  Conway,  as  I 
passed  it,  appeared  to  me  very  beautiful ;  the  bridge  with  its 
single  arch,  the  mountains  in  front,  the  church  to  the  left,  the 
stream  and  the  trees,  would  form  a  lovely  subject  for  a  sketch. 

The  high  road  is  fine— excellent,  it  is  cut  through,  and  winds 
round  a  high  rock  close  to  the  sea-shore,  towards  which  a  good 
stone  wall  forms  a  rampart,  and  prevents  any  one  feeling 
nervous.  The  views  in  North  Wales  pleased  me  very  much ; 
the  mountains  are  low,  but  the  heaviness  of  the  atmosphere 
causes  clouds  to  hang  upon  their  summits,  to  which  their 
height  appears  scarcely  to  entitle  them.  Penrith  Castle  is 
handsome,  and  the  stone  quarries  appear  large  and  valuable.  I 
passed  over  and  admired  the  Menai  Bridge,  and  crossed  Anglesea 
in  darkness.  They  tell  me  the  pretty  and  small  black  cattle,  so 
common  in  Wales,  come  from  Anglesea, — the  breed  of  the 
island.  There  are  no  wild  goats  in  Wales,  and  I  only  saw  two 
or  three  tame  ones. 

6th. — Arrived  in  Dublin,  and  proceeded  to  Knapton.  The 
country  around  DubUn  is  hilly,  pretty,  and  has  some  trees ; 
further  inland  it  is  flat,  very  flat  and  uninteresting.  The 
towns  swarm  with  beggars,  who  look  very  cold,  and  of  an 
unhealthy  white,  as  if  much  illness  were  added  to  their  poverty : 
the  Irish  cabins  appear  abodes  of  wretchedness,  some  of  them 
being  without  a  chimney,  the  smoke  making  its  exit  through  the. 
door  ;  the  pigs  and  the  naked-legged  children  rolling  together ; 
and  the  roof  looking  as  if  its  original  thatching  of  straw  was 
turned  into  mud,  so  covered  is  it  with  green  moss,  and  the  black 
hue  of  dampness.  The  potatoes  are  piled  in  ridges  in  the  fields, 
covered  over  with  a  few  inches  of  earth  neatly  beaten  down, — 

VOL.  II.  z 


338  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

the  only  specimen  of  neatness  that  I  saw  was  in  these  potato 
ridges ;  they  are  left  unguarded  in  the  field,  and  the  Irish  say, 
the  last  thing  they  would  think  of  stealing  would  be  the 
potatoes.  Tlie  hay-ricks  are  on  the  same  small  scale  as  the 
Welsh,  but  not  put  together  nor  thatched  with  Welsh  neatness  ; 
but  the  stacks  of  turf  looked  very  Irish,  and  they  were  tolerably 
neat.  The  police,  who  are  dressed  in  a  dark-coloured  uniform, 
are  armed,  which  they  are  not  in  England.  The  sight  of  a  turf- 
fire  has  an  odd  appearance  at  first ;  the  smell  is  oppressive,  and 
it  does  not  appear  to  send  out  the  heat  of  a  coal-fire.  The 
])ark  of  Abbeyleix,  with  its  fine  trees,  is  a  pleasing  object, 
surrounded  as  it  is  by  a  flat  country  of  bog  and  swamp,  and  the 
walks  within  it  are  delightful.  I  wish  I  had  had  some  of  the  young 
rhododendron  trees  from  Landowr  to  plant  there ;  I  might  have 
brought  some  home  in  glass  cases,  impervious  to  the  sea  air ;  a 
great  many  cases  of  that  sort,  containing  rare  plants,  came  to 
England  on  the  poop  of  the  "Madagascar;"  several  of  the 
plants  were  in  bloom  on  board,  and  they  were  all  healthy  on 
their  arrival.  The  hall  at  Abbeyleix  is  decorated  with  the  skull 
and  horns  of  an  enormous  elk,  found  in  one  of  the  bogs, — a 
great  curiosity ;  there  is  also  a  woodcock,  with  a  young  one 
and  an  egg,  which  were  found  in  the  grounds,  and  are  con- 
sidered a  rarity. 

We  passed  a  woman  who  appeared  to  be  very  poor  from  the 
scantiness  of  her  clothing ;  she  wore  her  cloak  over  her  head 
instead  of  over  her  shoulders, — a  fashion  purely  Irish  ;  but  she 
did  not  ask  for  charity.  My  companion  gave  her  some  money  ; 
she  threw  herself  on  her  knees  to  thank  him,  and  on  our  asking 
her  history,  she  said,  "  My  husband  is  a  Roman,  sure  it's 
myself s  the  bad  Protestant:"  she  added  that  she  had  eight 
children,  four  of  whom  were  dead,  and  the  Lord  be  thanked  ; 
and  she  wished  the  Lord  would  take  the  others,  for  they  were 
starving.  I  gave  her  a  little  money,  which  I  made  her  promise 
to  spend  in  potatoes  and  buttermilk,  because  she  said  she  would 
lay  it  out  in  tea  for  the  children.  This  new  love  of  tea,  to  the 
abolition  of  potatoes  and  buttermilk,  adds  much  to  the  starving 
state  of  the  Irish  poor  ;  if  you  give  them  money,  it  is  said,  their 


MALiCHUs  o'more.  339 

priests  take  one-third  of  it ;  besides  which,  O'Connell  levies  a 
tribute  on  the  poor  creatures. 

28th. — This  morning,  a  fine  frost  being  on  the  ground,  which 
from  its  pecuhar  whiteness  and  brilhancy  the  Irish  denominate 
a  black  frost,  the  party  at  Abbeyleix  and  Knapton  sallied  forth 
to  shoot  the  woods  :  the  keepers  beat  the  woods  for  woodcocks 
much  in  our  Indian  fashion  of  beating  the  jangal.  During  the 
day  I  walked  to  the  enclosed  garden  in  Lord  de  Vesci's  grounds, 
to  see  the  tomb  of  MaHchus  O'More,  the  son  of  Roderick 
O'More  ;  the  strong  ice  that  was  upon  it  rendered  the  inscription 
difficult  to  decipher  :  it  stood  formerly  within  a  few  yards  of  its 
present  situation  ;  Lord  de  Vesci  built  a  hot-house  on  the  spot, 
and  at  the  same  time  he  removed  the  coffin,  which  is  of  stone, 
and  contains  bones  of  gigantic  size. 

1840,  Jan.  lOth. — To-day  the  penny  postage  commenced  :  a 
great  crowd  collected  at  the  post-office,  putting  in  letters, — 
which  were  in  vast  number,  as  people  had  refrained  from 
writing,  awaiting  the  opening  of  the  penny  post.  The  band 
was  playing  in  front  of  the  office. 

ISth. — Quitted  Liverpool  in  the  train  :  you  commence  your 
journey  through  an  immense  tunnel,  and  when  a  train  is  going 
through  notice  is  given  at  the  other  end  by  a  whistle.  The 
engines  puff  and  blow  in  such  an  angry  fashion,  one  can 
scarcely  fancy  they  are  not  animated  ;  and  when  they  want 
water,  by  a  very  simple  contrivance,  they  whistle  of  themselves 
to  get  it.  Their  names  delight  me :  the  "  Oberon  "  or  the 
"  Camilla  "  puff  by  you — puff,  puff,  like  enraged  animals.    The 


Swift  Camilla  scours  the  plain, 


Flies  o'er  the  unbending  com,  and  skims  along  the  main  :" 

— road  ought  to  be  added,  were  it  not  for  the  rhyme,  but  must 
be  understood. 

23rd. — Rode  with  a  friend  to  Clumber,  the  seat  of  the  Duke 
of  Newcastle ;  the  grounds  are  fine  and  extensive ;  the  house 
appeared  an  immense  mass  of  heavy  building :  the  interior  may 
be   handsome,    but  the   exterior  is  heavy  and  dreary-looking. 

z  2 


340  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

I  admired  the  lake  v^ery  much,  and  the  canter  we  took  in  the 
park  was  delightful. 

29th. — Visited  Mr.  Waljambe's  museum  of  British  birds  ;  it 
is  most  excellent ;  and  I  was  charmed  with  the  silver  firs  in  the 
grounds  at  Osburton, — they  are  most  beautiful  and  magnificent 
trees. 

Feb.  3rd. — The  following  speech  made  by  a  gentleman  at 
tiffin  amused  me  : — "  Lord  Brougham  says,  '  Mankind  are 
divided  into  two  classes,  those  who  have  seen  my  house  in  Italy, 
and  those  who  have  not :' — now,  I  divide  mankind  into  those 
who  have  seen  my  Moonal  pheasants,  and  those  who  have  not. 
Lady  William  Bentinck  gave  them  to  me,  and  they  are  the 
most  beautiful  birds  I  ever  saw." 

l\th. — A  steamer  ran  against  a  merchant  vessel  that  was  at 
anchor  in  the  river  ;  down  she  went  headlong,  all  her  crew  with 
her,  down  in  a  moment.  At  low  tide  four  barges  were  brought 
and  fixed  to  her  with  strong  chains  and  cables.  She  was  then 
left  until  the  tide  rose,  at  which  time  the  pressure  on  the  ropes 
increased.  Hundreds  of  people  assembled  to  see  her  drawn  up 
— the  tide  rose  higher  and  higher — the  struggle  was  great — 
"  Now  mud," — "  Now  barges,"  was  the  cry  :  the  mud  held  her 
tenaciously,  the  barges  pulled  more  and  more — the  anxiety  was 
great :  at  last,  like  a  cork  drawn  from  a  bottle,  she  rose  from 
the  suction,  came  up  to  the  surface,  and  was  immediately  taken 
to  the  shore :  some  of  her  crew,  who  were  asleep  when  she  went 
down,  were  found  dead  in  their  beds. 

1841,  April  20th. — At  the  little  chapel  of  Pennycross  in 
Devon,  my  beloved  father  was  buried.  It  is  situated  on  a  hill 
covered  with  fine  trees,  and  commands  a  beautiful  view, — 
just  such  a  quiet,  holy,  retired  spot  as  one  would  select  for 
a  last  resting  place.  I  could  not  summon  courage  to  go 
there  before,  but  now  I  feel  an  anxiety  to  revisit  it  again 
and  again. 

May  1st. — Revisited  the  chapel  of  Pennycross,  and  took  a 
drawing  of  the  tomb  of  my  father. 

\2th. — Went  on  board  the  "  Wilberforce"  steamer,  which  is 
going  with  the  "  Albert"  and  "  Santon"  on  the  Niger  expe- 


a. 

< 


in 
o 

a, 
u 

z 


k 


THE    NIGER    EXPEDITION.  341 

dition.  She  has  two  engines,  each  of  thirty-five  horse  power. 
The  "  Santon"  has  only  one  engine:  the  "  Wilberforce"  is  flat- 
bottomed,  but  has  a  double  keel,  they  tell  me,  that  may  be 
drawn  up  at  pleasure.  She  is  ventilated,  but  will  be  horribly 
hot  in  a  warm  climate — Uke  an  iron  furnace.  The  life-buoy 
appeared  a  good  invention.  One  of  the  officers  showed  me  an 
absurd  affair, — a  small  lantern  to  strap  upon  the  chest  of  a  man, 
to  purify  the  air  he  breathes  when  he  is  exposed  to  a  pestilential 
atmosphere.  They  showed  me  a  number  of  bibles  and  testa- 
ments, which  they  said  were  in  the  Arabic  character :  judging 
from  the  slight  glimpse  I  caught,  it  appeared  to  me  to  be 
beautifully  printed  Persian.  The  two  Ashantee  princes  came 
on  board  with  their  tutor :  they  are  intelligent,  good-humoured, 
ugly  Africanders,  with  large  blubber  lips  and  up-turned  flat 
noses,  and  dressed  like  young  Englishmen  :  how  soon  they  will 
discard  their  tight  trowsers  and  small  sleeves  when  they  get 
back  to  their  own  countiy  !  The  crockery  on  board  is  shown  to 
the  lady  visitors,  who  are  expected  to  weep  on  beholding  the 
appropriate  design  printed  upon  it : — a  negro  dancing  with 
broken  chains  in  his  hands !  It  made  me  laugh,  because  there 
is  much  humbug  in  the  whole  aflfair — but  it  is  the  fashion.  I 
was  rather  inclined  to  weep  when  I  thought  what  would  be  the 
probable  fate  of  the  men  then  around,  who  were  going  out  on 
the  expedition  to  such  a  dreadful  climate. 

July  2\ St. — Having  been  recommended  to  visit  the  baths  of 
Schwalbach  in  Germany,  on  account  of  my  health,  I  started  per 
steamer  for  Rotterdam  and  proceeded  up  the  Rhine  :  after  a 
most  agreeable  stay  at  Schwalbach,  and  my  health  having 
received  benefit  from  its  chalybeate  waters,  I  returned  to 
England. 

Dec.  8th. — This  day  is  over — I  am  once  more  alone — and 
what  a  day  of  agony  it  has  been  to  me — my  birth- day !  On  this 
day  I  first  beheld  my  beloved  mother;  on  this  day  I  have 
placed  her  in  her  grave ! — have  parted  with  her  in  this  world 
for  ever.  My  beloved  mother  has  been  placed  in  my  father's 
vault  in  the  churchyard  of  that  quiet  and  beautiful  little  chapel 
at  Pennycross, — a  tranquil  and  holy  spot.     O  my  mother  !  let 


342  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

me  turn  from  your  grave  to  the  duties  that  are  before  me,  and 
strive  to  act  in  a  manner  worthy  of  your  child. 

INDIAN    NEWS. 

Overland  letters  brought  me  the  following  intelligence  : — 

"  1839,  March  25th. — Her  Highness  the  Baiza  Ba'i  sent  a 
kharita  to  give  me  the  glad  tidings  of  the  safety  of  the  Gaja 
Raja  Sahib,  and  the  birth  of  a  daughter ;  they  are  both  very 
weak  and  thin,  and  her  Highness  is  most  anxious  about  her 
grand-daughter,  as  she  can  scarcely  take  any  nourishment. 
They  have  named  the  child  the  Chimna  Raja,  after  the  wife  of 
Appa  Sahib." 

Holding  rank  by  courtesy,  as  "  Aunt  of  my  grand-daughter 
the  Gaja  Raja,"  this  newly-arrived  young  princess  must  be  my 
great  grand-niece,  for  which  reason  perhaps  she  honoured  me 
by  coming  into  the  world  on  the  anniversary  of  my  wedding- 
day.  It  is  remarkable  the  ladies  of  that  family  are  oddly 
enough  styled  Raja,  and  Raja  Sahib. 

Dec.  \5th. — My  relative  at  Landowr  wrote  to  me,  saying,  "  I 
had  a  very  interesting  letter  lately  from  our  friend  Sturt,  of  the 
engineers,  from  Cabul :  he  has  been  appointed  engineer  to 
Shah  Sujah,  and  gets  1000  rupees  a  month  :  he  had  not  heard 
of  your  being  in  England ;  but  he  begged  to  be  kindly  remem- 
bered to  you.  Here  is  an  extract :  '  Give  my  best  saliim ;  I 
promised  her  a  sketch  of  the  Hills,  which  I  have  not  forgotten, 
but  never  did  one  to  my  fancy ;  but  she  shall  have  one  of  Can- 
dahar,  Ghuznee,  and  Cabul,  and  any  thing  else  this  place 
affords :  would  she  like  a  lady's  dress  ?  if  so,  I  shall  be  obliged 
by  her  accepting  it  from  me.'  I  told  Sturt  you  were  at  home, 
but  would,  I  was  sure,  be  delighted  to  get  the  sketches." 

How  often  after  the  death  of  Captain  Sturt,  who  distinguished 
himself  so  highly,  did  I  regret  never  having  received  the  pro- 
mised sketches,  and  concluded  they  were  lost  during  the  dis- 
astrous retreat  from  Cabul!  In  1848,  Mr.  Hullmandel  showed 
me  the  work  published  by  General  Sale,  and  told  me  the  litha- 
graphs  were  from  sketches  by  Captain  Sturt ;  that  the  portfolio 


INDIAN    NEWS.  343 

was  lost  during  the  retreat  of  the  army,  but  was  afterwards  dis- 
covered and  given  to  Lady  Sale.  With  how  much  interest  I 
looked  over  the  drawings ! — in  jdl  probability  they  were  from  the 
very  sketches  he  had  taken  for  me. 

"  1840,  Feb.  1 5th. — We  have  just  received  the  news  of  Lord 
Auckland's  having  been  created  an  Earl  and  Sir  John  Keane  a 
Baron :  what  an  unlucky  wight  Sir  Henry  Fane  has  been,  to 
have  missed  prize-money  and  a  peerage,  and  having  nearly  been 
killed  by  the  only  thing  he  got  in  the  country, — a  pukka  fever ! 

"  There  is  no  doubt  as  to  the  expedition  to  China,  and  '  Teas 
is  riz.'  It  will  be  a  short  affair  of  a  year,  perhaps  less  ;  the 
whole  will  fall  on  the  shoulders  of  poor  Governor  Lin,  who 
may  lose  his  head  in  addition  to  his  two  buttons." 

"  July  1st. — ^The  Bombay  Government  have  consented  to  the 
Baiza  Ba'i's  residing  at  a  place  called  Nassuk,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Godavery,  not  far  removed  from  the  Poona  district,  her  own 
country.  Four  lakh  a  year  are  to  be  granted  her ;  she  is  to 
live  there  on  the  same  terms  as  people  of  her  station  reside  at 
Benares,  or  other  places  in  the  British  territories ;  but  it  is 
clearly  understood  that  her  followers  are  to  be  subject  to  the 
rules  and  regulations  of  the  country. 

"  2nd. — We  have  heard  of  Sir  Henry  Fane's  death,  for 
which  we  were  sincerely  sorry — poor  fellow,  his  youthful  good 
fortune  did  not  attend  his  last  career.  In  the  Peninsular  war 
he  was  styled  '  Main  de  fer.' 

"  August. — The  Ba'i  has  been  unfortunate,  having  had  a 
fire  in  her  camp  which  destroyed  her  house,  shawls,  &c.,  and 
property  to  the  amount  of  four  or  five  lakh :  it  was  occasioned 
by  a  Mahratta  girl's  setting  fire  accidentally  to  the  parda." 

"Dec. — ^The  Gaja  Raja  has  recovered  from  a  very  severe 
illness,  and  the  little  princess,  the  Chimna  Raja,  is  well. 

"  A  subscription  was  circulated  in  1835  at  Allahabad  for  buildr 
ing  a  church.  Mr.  Blunt,  the  Lieutenant-Governor,  subscribed 
1000  rupees.  The  building  was  to  be  done,  provided  the  funds 
were  sufficient,  by  Colonel  Edward  Smith,  of  the  engineers. 
In  February,  1841,  the  church  was  consecrated  by  the  Bishop  : 
it  does  honour  to  the  architect,  being  a  handsome  building,  and 


344  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM, 

well  adapted  to  the  climate.  The  erection  of  so  expensive  a 
church  by  so  small  a  society  shows  great  zeal  in  the  cause  of 
religion  in  the  inhabitants  of  Allahabad. 

"  We  have  just  received  the  news  of  the  renewal  of  hostihties 
with  China,  at  which  I  am  glad.  The  celestials  will  be  forced 
to  lejirn  the  power  of  the  enemy  they  have  drawn  upon  them. 
Tlie  new  Commissioner,  Lin's  successor,  is  to  be  made  over  to 
the  Board  of  Punishment,  and  the  admiral  has  been  deprived  of 
his  button.  There  is  nothing  new  under  the  sun  ;  our  expres- 
sion of  having  '  a  soul  above  buttons'  must  be  derived  from 
the  Chinese.  A  great  man,  for  instance,  like  Admiral  Kwang, 
bearing  bravely  up  against  loss  of  dignity  {button)  and  honour." 

"  1841,  Feb.  I5th. — ^The  Baiza  Ba'I  has  crossed  over  to  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Jumna,  where  she  remains  until  after  the 
eclipse  of  to-morrow.  Appa  Sahib  is  in  Sultan  Khusru's  garden, 
and  will  not  move,  it  is  said,  until  some  arrangement  is  first 
made  for  him  by  the  Ba'i  or  the  Government,  if  not,  he  says, 
he  wiU  turn  fakir." 

"May. — Captain  Fitzgerald,  who  has  charge  of  the  Baiza 
Ba'I,  and  her  Highness,  were  heard  of  at  Nagpore ;  she  gave  no 
trouble,  but  was  dilatory  on  the  march,  the  weather  being 
frightfully  hot." 

"  1842. — A  khaiita  was  received  from  Nassuk,  some  forty  or 
fifty  kos  from  Bombay.  The  Brija  Ba'I,  one  of  her  Highness's 
ladies,  was  very  magrd,  i.  e.  discontented  with  the  hawd  pdni, 
'  the  air  and  water'  of  the  place,  and  complained  that  she  saw 
no  sdhib  log  (gentlemen),  as  when  at  Allahabad. 

"  How  little  a  man  can  estimate  his   real   value !     The   last 

accounts  from  Cabul  informed  us  our  friend  Captain  B was 

a  prisoner,  and  to  be  sold  for  200  rupees !  The  price  having 
been  paid,  he  was  released  from  captivity." 

Let  me  record  the  death  of  a  faithful  servant :  on  quitting 
Calcutta,  a  lame  shepherd  applied  to  be  taken  into  employ  ;  the 
old  man  had  been  a  sipahl,  was  wounded  in  action,  and  ever 
after  remained  lame.  When  he  oflfered  himself  as  bheri- 
wdld  (shepherd)  an  objection  arose  on  account  of  his  lameness. 


PEDIGREE    OF    JUMNl,    THE    INVALUABLE.  345 

it  being  imagined  he  could  never  take  the  goats  five  hundred 
miles  up  the  country.  "  I  am  so  lame  I  shall  never  overdrive 
them,"  said  the  man ; — ^the  reason  was  unanswerable,  he  was 
taken  into  service. 

The  old  male  goat  of  the  flock  very  often  upsets  the  shepherd ; 
though  they  are  always  at  war  they  are  great  friends. 

Poor  old  Bulwan,  our  lame  shepherd,  was  bitten  by  a  mad 
dog,  which  attacked  him  when  he  was  driving  it  off  from  one  of 
the  goats — my  favourite  black  Bengali,  which  I  had  commended 
to  his  especial  care  ;  he  died  four  days  afterwards  :  he  was  sent 
to  the  hospital,  but  it  was  too  late.  There  seems  to  be  no  cure 
but  that  of  cutting  out  the  bitten  part,  and  cauterizing  the 
wound.  We  gave  his  son  eight  rupees  to  bury  him,  and  shall 
keep  him  in  his  father's  place  if  he  is  steady.  We  regret  the 
old  man  very  much  ;  we  used  to  give  him  a  rupee  occasionally 
to  cheer  him.  Every  shepherd  knows  his  own  sheep  ; — and  my 
old  man  not  only  knew  his  own  sheep,  but  had  a  name  for  each 
of  his  goats,  forty-five  in  number.  Like  Dandy  Dinmont's 
terriers.  Pepper  and  Mustard,  and  Mustard  and  Pepper,  the  old 
man  derived  the  name  of  all  his  goats  from  one,  his  prime 
favourite,  a  beautifully  spotted  Delhi  goat,  by  name  JumnT, — 
"  Jumni's  daughter,"  "  Jumni's  grandson's  grand -daughter's 
son,"  "  Jumni's  nephew's  grandchild," — every  kid  in  the  flock 
was  traced  by  some  means  or  other  to  the  invaluable  JumnI : 
the  pedigree  of  a  race-horse  was  nothing  in  comparison  to  the 
pedigree  of  the  kids  ! 


CHAPTER  LXI. 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

"  Here's  a  sigh  for  those  who  love  me, 
And  a  smile  for  those  who  hate  ; 
And  whatever  sky's  above  me, 
Here's  a  heart  for  any  fate. 

"  Though  the  ocean  roar  around  me. 
It  still  shall  bear  me  on  ; 
Though  a  desert  should  surround  me, 
It  has  springs  that  may  be  won," 

Family  Sorrows — Departure  from  England — The  Camatic — A  Gale — The 
Spirit  of  the  Storm — Sunsets — Peak  of  Teneriffe — The  Trade  Wind — A 
most  Magnificent  Comet — Phosphoric  Lights — Visit  of  Neptune  declined — 
Scarcity  of  Provisions — Spray  Bows — Albatross  caught — Arrival  at  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

1843. — I  will  pass  over  my  wanderings  in  France,  Belgium,  and 
Germany  without  comment.  My  absence  from  India  was  pro- 
longed far  beyond  the  time  originally  allotted  me,  by  the  deep 
and  numerous  afflictions  that  fell  upon  me.  One  by  one  all 
those  I  loved  had  sunk  into  the  grave :  mental  suflFering,  united 
to  anxiety  and  bodily  exertion,  brought  on  severe  illness,  and 
that  buoyancy  of  spirit  which  had  hitherto  supported  me 
was  gone.  How  can  I  express  my  gratitude  to  those  dear 
friends  who  nursed  me  with  such  unwearied  care  and  aflfection 
during  a  long  and  painful  illness  of  nearly  three  months'  duration, 
with  which  I  had  to  struggle ;  until,  with  health  regained,  my 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ENGLAND.  347 

happy  spirits  began  to  resume  their  empire?  It  is  a  blessed 
dispensation  of  Providence,  that,  "  with  returning  health  returns 
that  energy,  without  which  the  soul  were  given  to  us  in  vain ; 
and  which  enables  us  calmly  to  face  the  evils  of  our  being,  and 
resolutely  to  fulfil  its  objects  :  there  is  but  one  philosophy 
(though  there  are  a  thousand  schools) ,  and  its  name  is  fortitude. 
To  bear  is  to  conquer  our  fate." 

On  my  recovery,  contrary  to  the  advice  of  my  medical 
advisers,  I  determined  to  sail  immediately  for  the  Cape,  and 
rejoin  my  husband,  who  had  been  compelled  by  illness  to  quit 
India,  and  proceed,  for  the  benefit  of  his  health,  to  Southern 
Africa.     Having  engaged  the  larboard  stem  cabin  on  the  poop 

of  the  "Camatic,"   a  vessel  of   Captain   I 's,   for  £110 

to  the  Cape ;  and  having  secured  the  services  of  an  ayha,  to 
wait  upon  me  during  the  voyage,  I  took  leave  of  my  friends, 
and  went  to  Portsmouth,  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  ship. 

Feb.  8th. — Sailed  from  Portsmouth  at  noon ;  it  was  stormy, 
and  blew  hard,  but  the  wind  was  fair  ;  the  thermometer  46° — 
most  bitterly  cold.  I  suffered  greatly  from  mal  de  mer,  and  was 
most  completely  wretched,  so  miserably  cold  and  uncomfortable. 

lOth. — In  the  Bay  of  Biscay  we  encountered  a  confusion  of 
seas,  all  huddled  and  jostling  together ;  a  strong  following  wind 
sent  the  vessel  swiftly  along,  the  waves  roaring  after  her,  whilst, 
every  now  and  then,  a  sea  struck  her  fearfully.  I  was  too  iU  to 
quit  my  couch. 

I4th. — A  heavy  gale  came  on,  and  blew  incessantly  with 
frightful  force  for  two  days  and  nights  !  How  the  ship  pitched 
and  rolled  !  she  groaned  as  if  all  her  timbers  were  being  wrenched 
asunder ;  this  would  continue  ten  mmutes,  and  then  came  a 
pause — perfect  silence  for  a  few  seconds,  after  which  the  groan- 
ing of  the  timbers  recommenced,  and  the  same  dead  silence  at 
intervals ;  it  gave  me  the  idea  that  the  vessel  beneath  me  was 
crazy  in  every  beam,  not  sea- worthy. 

\6th. — Foul  wind  and  rain;  even  that  was  better  than  the 
state  of  the  vessel  during  the  gale,  which  abated  a  little  this 
morning.  The  pitching  and  rolling,  added  to  the  groans  of  the 
timbers,  allowed  of  no  rest  night  or  day ;  it  was  to  me  a  life  of 


348  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

great  suffering,  added  to  which,  the  ship  was  badly  provisioned, 
and  the  cook  a  very  bad  one. 

17 th. — The  captain  of  the  vessel  told  me  he  was  never  out  in 
such  a  gale  before ;  the  first  ofiicer  asserted  the  same.  His 
course  lay  outside  Madeira,  but  the  foul  wind  and  heavy  sea,  in 
which  the  captain  said  the  ship  could  not  live,  forced  him  to 
decide  on  taking  the  course  within  the  islands. 

I8th. — A  wild  wind  and  heavy  sea,  the  waves  striking  the 
ship,  and  pouring  over  her  in  fearful  style ;  the  galley  was 
washed  away,  the  Uve-stock  under  the  large  boat  was  nearly  all 
destroyed,  and  seven  of  the  pigs  were  killed.  The  deck  pre- 
sented a  scene  of  marvellous  confusion  ;  the  sailors,  attempting 
to  save  the  live-stock,  were  thrown  down  on  the  deck,  and  the 
steward,  lying  in  the  water  that  rushed  over  it,  was  holding  on 
to  a  pig ;  the  animal  bit  his  hand,  the  steward  let  go,  and  the 
pig  was  washed  overboard  by  the  next  roll  of  the  ship.  With 
the  vessel  in  such  a  state  the  passengers  were  left  to  shift  for 
themselves,  and  very  badly  off  they  were.  At  dinner-time  I 
crept  out  to  get  some  food,  my  ay  ha  having  been  unable  to 
procure  any  thing  for  me  during  the  whole  day  from  the  steward ; 
the  captain  apologised  for  the  dinner  on  table,  on  account  of 
the  galley  having  been  washed  away  :  it  consisted  merely  of  one 
great  cheese,  and  each  person  was  supplied  with  a  biscuit ! 
Nineteen  hungry  cadets  were  there ;  how  the  boys  ate ! — 
the  great  cheese  quickly  disappeared.  Every  one  was  in 
good  humour,  and  glad  of  biscuit  and  cheese ;  but  the 
news  of  the  loss  of  so  much  of  the  live-stock  was  far  from 
agreeable. 

2\st. — From  the  time  we  quitted  Portsmouth  until  this  day 
I  have  been  miserably  ill  with  mal  de  mer,  added  to  which,  I 
have  scarcely  been  able  to  sleep  at  night,  the  weather  has  been 
so  constantly  bad ;  as  for  the  poor  creatures  below,  they  must 
be  nearly  stifled, — ^the  waves,  which  are  pouring  in  on  the  one 
side  of  the  deck  and  out  on  the  other,  force  them  to  keep  the 
hatches  closed. 

The  wind  was  strong  and  against  us ;  in  the  evening  I  saw  a 
beautiful  meteor  on  the  starboard  bow,  shooting  down  the  sky. 


THE    SPIRIT    OF    THE    STORM.  349 

At  night  I  was  sitting  Hindustani  fashion  on  my  sofa,  playing 
on  the  guitar,  and  singing — 

"  Du,  du,  liegst  mir  im  Herzen, 
Du,  du,  liegst  mir  im  Sinn." 

The  sea  was  very  heavy,  it  blew  a  Uttle  hurricane ;  the  wind 
suddenly  changed,  and  the  "  Camatic  "  was  taken  aback  ;  how 
she  pitched  and  rolled !  There  was  an  uproar  on  deck,  but  I 
went  on  with  my  song, — it  was  useless  to  disturb  myself  for  a 
storm  ;  certainly  the  time  of  the  music  varied  as  the  heavy 
pitching  sent  me  backwards  and  forwards  on  the  sofa. 

The  next  morning  the  chief  officer  said,  "  I  was  astonished 
last  night  when  the  ship  was  taken  aback,  I  heard  you  singing 
as  quietly  as  possible  all  the  time ;  I  did  not  like  it, — it  sounded 
like  the  spirit  of  the  storm."  This  remark  put  me  in  mind  of 
Long  Tom  Coffin,  who,  hearing  a  midshipman  singing  during  a 
heavy  gale,  requested  that  the  captain  would  call  him  from  the 
gun  on  which  he  was  seated,  adding,  "  For  I  know,  from  having 
followed  the  seas  my  natural  hfe,  that  singing  in  a  gale  is  sure 
to  bring  the  wind  down  upon  a  vessel  the  heavier ;  for  He  who 
rules  the  tempests  is  displeased  that  man's  voice  shall  be  heard 
when  He  chooses  to  send  His  own  breath  on  the  water." 

23rd. — A  quiet  day,  a  pleasant  evening,  and  the  first  tranquil 
night  since  I  have  been  on  board  in  which  I  have  been  able  to 
get  the  refreshment  of  a  sound  sleep  ;  we  are  now  within  the 
shelter  of  the  islands. 

24th. — Another  quiet  day,  a  beautiful  evening,  and  a  quiet 
night ; — what  a  luxury  !  A  glorious  sunset :  the  purple  clouds 
stood  up  from  the  deep  blue  ocean  Uke  a  wall,  above  were  two 
brilliant  streaks  of  vivid  green,  other  streaks  of  crimson  hue 
were  surrounded  by  purple  clouds,  and  above  all  a  sky  of 
mottled  deep  ultramarine  blue  clouds,  of  which  the  edges  were 
of  burnished  molten  gold,  like  the  brilliant  dyes  on  the  back  of 
the  mackarel.  A  glorious  sunset  after  such  wild  gales  and 
drenching  rains. 

25th. — A  nautilus  and  a  tortoise  seen.  Another  sunset, 
less  wild  than  that  of  the  evening  before,  but  the  finale  was 


350  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

brilliant.  The  clouds  drew  back,  and  the  sun — a  perfect  world 
of  fire — sank  in  burning  brilliancy  into  the  deep  blue  sea,  which 
did  not  appear  to  catch  one  tint  from  its  vivid  beams,  but 
remained  a  deep,  cold,  clear  blue,  whilst  every  cloud  around 
caught  and  returned  the  rays.  In  these  latitudes,  at  sea,  a 
sunset  is  indeed  a  glorious  sight :  and  what,  after  the  evening 
shades  have  fallen  around,  and  the  deck  is  quiet  and  nearly 
forsaken,  can  be  more  calm  and  refreshing  than  the  star-light 
night,  and  the  cool  and  delightful  breeze  ? — luxurious  hours  of 
dreamy  contemplation. 

26th. — At  6  A.M.  I  saw  the  Peak  of  TenerifFe:  when  the  sun 
came  out  in  power  the  Peak  became  beautiful, — its  snowy  head 
ridged  with  furrows,  and  glistening  like  silver  in  the  sun  ;  deep 
shadows  were  over  the  island,  the  shape  could  be  traced,  but 
with  an  uncertain  effect  that  gave  it  the  appearance  of  fairy-land  ; 
while,  above  the  shadows,  contrasted  with  and  relieved  by  the 
unclouded  blue  sky,  the  silvery  Peak  was  a  beautiftd  object. 
The  sea  was  almost  perfectly  calm,  and  a  number  of  the  nautilus 
were  around  us. 

27th. — A  beautiful  day,  almost  a  calm, — ^TenerifFe  and  Palma 
appear  to  advantage.  Several  Portuguese  men-of-war  near  the 
ship. 

March  \st. — ^The  trade-wind  fine  and  steady,  making  us  all 
happy  and  contented :  thermometer  67°, — a  most  agreeable 
temperature.  My  cot  came  down  by  the  run ;  the  double- 
jointed  brass  screws  on  which  it  hung,  having  had  too  much 
work  from  the  pitching  and  rolling  of  the  vessel,  broke  short  off; 
the  old-fashioned  common  iron  screws  are  far  better,  give  less 
motion  than  the  double-jointed  brass  ones,  and  will  not  break. 

4f/i.— Lat.N.  17°  57',  long.  W.  20°  47'. 

"  The  moon  is  up,  but  yet  it  is  not  night, — 
Sunset  divides  the  sky  with  her." 

A  magnificent  scene  was  presented  when  the  sun  had  disap- 
peared below  the  horizon  ;  a  most  brilliant  rose  tint  overspread 
both  sea  and  sky  ;  clouds  of  the  deepest  neutral  tint  were  finely 
contrasted  with  others  of  burning  crimson,  and  two  vivid  streaks 


THE    COMET.  351 

of  the  brightest  green  mixed  with  the  warm  glow  of  sunset. 
While  the  waves  were  still  bright  with  the  rose  tints,  and  two 
crimson  clouds  still  lingered  amidst  those  of  the  darkest  hue, 
the  crescent  moon  arose  with  the  old  moon  in  her  arms,  and  a 
beautiful  lunar  bow  was  brightly  visible,  silver-tinted  like  the 
moon.  The  captain  of  the  ship  remarked  it  was  an  uncommon 
and  curious  circumstance ;  the  bow  remained  visible  some  time. 
The  horizon  darkened,  meteoric  lights  played  around  the  ship, 
illuminating  the  waves  with  flashes  of  silver  light,  and  spark- 
ling stars,  the  glow-worms  of  the  deep.  The  trade-wind  was 
blowing,  the  night  was  fresh  and  pure,  and  most  agreeable. 

5^;i.— Lat.  N.  15°  12',  long.  W.  21°  5'.— Some  beautiful  flying 
fish  were  caught  in  the  shrouds ;  the  captain  ruthlessly  ordered 
them  to  be  dressed  for  breakfast,  the  flavour  was  delicate  and 
delicious.  Divine  service  was  performed  for  the  first  time.  A 
shark  seen,  and  the  lunar  bow  was  in  the  same  position  as  the 
night  before. 

6th.— Lat.  12°  43',  long.  21°  8'.— The  lunar  bow  visible  at 
the  same  hour,  brighter  and  of  greater  length ;  it  has  the 
appearance  of  an  enormously  lengthy  comet.  The  trade-wind 
good. 

7th.— Lat.  1  r  8',  long.  20°  4(7.— Light  winds  ;  the  comet  or 
lunar  bow,  whichever  it  may  be,  visible  as  usual. 

8th.— Lat.  9°  21',  long.  20°  55'.— The  comet-like  appearance 
very  decided,  and  with  a  telescope  the  star  at  the  head  was 
visible.  The  comet  appeared  at  twenty  minutes  past  six  p.m. — 
disappeared  at  eight  p.m.  The  light  of  the  tail  was  of  a  brilliant 
silver  colour,  and  it  was  very  much  expanded  at  the  end.  The 
crescent  moon  still  brilhant,  the  sea  calm. 

9th.— LsA.  T  46',  long.  20°  53'.— The  comet  is  very  distinct, 
and  of  enormous  size ;  it  appeared  in  full  splendour  this 
evening,  was  visible  a  little  later  than  it  was  yesterday  evening, 
and  disappeared  about  the  same  time  as  before.  It  was  a 
beautiful  night,  the  moon,  in  her  third  quarter,  was  brilliant ; 
Orion  shone  forth  in  the  deep  sky,  Aldebaran,  the  Pleiades, 
and  a  Arietis  were  in  full  splendour,  and  Canopus  was  beautiful. 

\Qth. — This  morning  two  of  the  young  men  amused  them- 


352  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

selves  with  swimming  by  the  ship's  side  during  the  calm  into 
which  we  have  gradually  fallen.  The  captain  remonstrated  with 
them ;  and  a  shark  was  caught,  which  will  prevent  such  folly  in 
future.  Thermometer  85° — very  warm.  The  comet  appeared 
about  six,  and  set  about  eight  p.m. — not  so  bright  this  evening 
as  usual.     A  waveless  ocean. 

llth. — A  deep  calm — the  sunrise  very  beautiful,  foreboding 
a  very  warm  day.  In  the  evening  the  comet,  although  visible, 
was  obscured  by  clouds — a  squall,  and  fresh  gale  at  night. 

12th.— Leit.  4°  28',  long.  20°  K/.— At  break  of  day  this  morn- 
ing, on  looking  out  of  the  port,  the  glory  of  the  scene  spread 
before  me  rendered  me  speechless  with  admiration.  Who  can 
describe  the  grandeur,  the  glorious  colours  of  that  sunrise  ? 
The  burning  crimson  clouds  deeply  streaked  with  the  darkest 
and  fullest  neutral  tints,  spread  above  deep  fantastically  shaped 
clouds  that  rose  like  mountains  from  the  sea.  Above  the 
burnished  crimson  was  a  bright  gleam  of  greenish  blue  sky, 
and  above  that  was  a  profusion  of  clouds,  in  tones  of  still 
deeper  and  more  burning  crimson,  mixed  with  the  darkest 
neutral  ones,  spread  upon  a  sky  of  the  most  vivid  and  deep 
ultramarine  colour — the  purple  waves  rose  and  swelled  glowing 
with  the  richest  rose  tints.  On  the  left,  also,  deep  neutral 
clouds  stood  up  from  the  sea  like  a  dark  mountain,  with 
streams  of  crimson  light  thrown  upon  its  head,  in  front  of  which 
the  softest,  fullest,  and  most  brilliantly  white  clouds  contrasted 
with  the  dark  blue  sea,  on  which  they  appeared  to  rest.  The 
man  who  dedicated  the  dim  rehgious  gloom  and  the  crimson- 
tinted  lights  of  a  cathedral  to  the  service  of  the  Almighty  must 
have  taken  the  idea  from  the  feelings  inspired  by  such  a  scene, 
where  a  gorgeous  profusion  of  solemn  tints  bows  the  soul  to 
Him  who  hath  "  spread  His  glory  in  the  heavens." 

This  sunrise  has  repaid  the  toil  and  trouble  of  the  voyage  : 
the  sunsets  are  magnificent ;  but  who  shall  describe  the  glory 
of  the  rising  sun,  the  depth  of  shade,  the  burning  Ught ; — a  scene 
that  can  never  be  forgotten,  a  glory  that  can  never  pass  from 
the  memory,  even  to  the  last.  Heavy  rain  in  the  evening,  the 
clouds  numerous,  the  comet  invisible. 


PHOSPHORIC    LIGHT.  353 

\4th. — Rainy  and  uncomfortable.  At  night  under  the  stern 
of  the  vessel  the  phosphoric  light  was  beautiful :  wishing  to  see 
what  produced  it,  I  desired  the  steward  to  throw  out  the  bucket : 
he  brought  up  a  curious  white  jelly-like  substance,  two  inches 
and  a  quarter  in  length,  and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  width, 
at  the  thickest  end,  and  shaped  somewhat  like  a  finger,  covered 
with  rings  of  small  globules  emitting  a  phosphoric  light  of  a 
brilliantly  transparent  emerald  colour.  It  extinguishes  and 
resumes  the  light  at  pleasure.  I  put  it  into  a  tumbler-full  of 
sea-water :  any  agitation  of  the  water  brought  forth  a  powerful 
light.  By  daylight  the  next  morning  it  had  somewhat  the 
appearance  of  a  thinly  haired  dirty-white  caterpillar,  and  its 
rounded  form  had  become  flat ;  in  this  state  it  weighed  one 
dram  one  scruple  ;  it  was  innocuous  to  the  touch,  it  emitted  no 
light,  and  was  dead. 

I8th. — Neptune  wished  to  come  on  board,  but  his  company 
not  being  considered  agreeable,  the  visit  was  declined,  and  a 
present  promised  to  him  at  the  end  of  the  voyage. 

1 9th. — ^The  stars  very  bright — a  lovely  night  in  the  trade 
winds — the  comet  very  high,  much  more  vertical ;  the  end  of 
the  tail  appeared  some  distance  beyond  Rigel  in  Orion — the  stars 
hid  their  diminished  heads  as  it  passed  over  them — it  set  at  a 
quarter  past  9  p.m.  ;  its  enormous  magnitude  was  astonishing. 

22nd. — ^The  calm  continued — the  weather  very  warm — eight 
vessels  around  us  wind-bound,  as  well  as  ourselves.  To  amuse 
the  younger  passengers,  and  pass  away  the  time,  which  hung 
wearily  on  their  hands,  theatricals  were  commenced,  concerts 
were  given,  and  a  newspaper  was  estabUshed  and  continued 
weekly,  entitled  "The  Comet." 

23rd. — The  Magellan  clouds  visible — the  southern  cross,  with 
its  pointers  Very  brilhant — the  whole  sky  gemmed  with  stars 
— the  moon,  Vesta,  and  Mars,  remarkably  beautiful. 

April  \st. — A  glorious  sunset  over  Trinidada  and  Martin  Vas 
rocks. 

4th.— Lai.  S.  24°  39',  long.  W.  29°  24'.  The  comet,  which  has 
been   gradually   diminishing   in   brightness,   was   invisible    this 
evening,  and  we  never  beheld  it  again.     The  stock  of  water  is 
VOL.  II.  A  a 


354  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PH.CiRIM. 

very  low  ;  of  the  live-stock  very  little  remains,  and  there  appears 
small  chance  of  getting  on  more  quickly  with  the  voyage. 

9th. — Another  calm :  are  we  ever  to  arrive  at  the  Cape  ? 
The  water  is  nearly  expended ;  of  the  live-stock  alone  remain 
three  sheep,  two  pigs,  four  fowls,  and  one  goose.  The  captain 
talks  of  watering  the  vessel  at  Tristan  d'Acunha.  The  stock  is 
in  a  melancholy  condition,  and  the  solitary  lean  goose  has 
fallen  a  victim  to  the  rapacious  jaws  of  nineteen  hungry 
cadets. 

\4th. — A  heavy  sea ;  shipping  water  in  large  quantities, 
rolling  and  pitching  heavily ;  a  sharp  wind  and  strong  breeze. 
On  the  high  foaming  waves  astern,  the  spray  bows,  as  they  call 
them,  are  most  remarkably  beautiful, — like  small  rainbows  on 
the  waves,  four  or  five  sometimes  visible  at  the  same  time ; 
I  watched  them  with  great  pleasure  from  the  stern -windows. 

\5th. — The  sea  calmer ;  eight  albatross  and  numerous  small 
birds  astern ;  in  the  evening  they  collected  close  to  the  vessel, 
following  it,  and  picking  the  bait  off  the  hooks  thrown  out  to 
catch  them. 

16^A. — Three  albatross  caught:  the  smaller  one  measured 
nine  feet  from  tip  to  tip  of  its  wings.  A  gentleman  had  the 
kindness  to  prepare  it  for  me  with  arsenical  soap,  and  I  brought 
it  to  England. 

26th. — Anchored  at  10  a.m.  in  Table  Bay,  after  a  voyage  of 
seventy-eight  days  from  Portsmouth,  and  eighty-nine  from  the 
Docks.  ' 

My  arrival  was  unexpected,  and  therefore,  I  trust,  only  the 
more  welcome. 


CHAPTER   LXII. 


RESIDENCE  AT  CAPE  TOWN. 

View  from  the  Sea — Wrecks — Cape  Town — The  Fish  Market— The  Seasons — 
Slavery  —  Washerwomen  on  the  Mountain  —  Target  Practice  —  Beautiful 
Flowers  —  Cape  Sheep  —  The  Bushwoman  —  Green  Point — Shells — The 
Honey-bush — Bracelets  of  Ivory  —  High  Price  of  Curiosities — Auctions — 
Robberies — Camp's  Bay — Fine  Aloes— Effect  of  the  Fog-wreaths  on  the 
Lion  Mountain — The  Lion's  Rump  —  Enormous  Bulbs — The  Botanical 
Gardens  —  Remarkable  Trees  and  Shrubs  —  The  Hsemanthus  —  Poisoned 
Arrows — The  Puff-adder — The  Melaleuca — Curious  Trees — The  Plaat  Clip, 
or  Flat  Stone — The  Solitary  Ruin. 

1843,  May. — Cape  Town,  when  viewed  from  the  sea,  is  beautiful 
and  singular;  the  white  houses  are  close  to  the  shore,  siu-- 
rounded  by  mountains  ;  the  Devil's  Peak,  the  Table,  and  the 
Lion  Mountain  form  a  fine  picture,  enUvened  by  the  number  of 
vessels  in  the  bay,  lying  close  to  the  town.  From  the  New 
Jetty,  where  you  land,  in  the  early  morning  of  a  clear  day,  the 
Blue  Mountains,  to  the  right  of  Robin's  Island,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  bay,  are  very  beautiful.  From  the  Old  Jetty  under 
the  Table  Mountain  you  see,  to  the  right,  the  wreck  of  the 
"  Abercrombie  Robertson,"  and  that  of  the  "  Reform;"  these  he 
near  together.  At  the  same  place  the  "  Waterloo  "  went  on 
shore,  but  being  rotten,  instantly  went  to  pieces,  and  disappeared. 
A  httle  to  the  right,  nearer  the  castle,  are  two  other  wrecks,  now. 
fast  disappearing. 

The  castle  and  the  barracks  are  close  to  this  jetty ;  the  latter 
was  formerly  the  store-house  of  the  Dutch  merchants.  The 
principal  street  in  Cape  Town  is  the  Heerengracht,  which  runs 
up  from  the  shore :  the  George  Hotel— the  best  hotel  in  the 

Aa2 


356  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

place,  is  in  this  street :  we  went  there,  it  was  quite  full,  and  the 
passengers  from  the  "  Carnatic  "  found  a  difficulty  in  procuring 
rooms ;  from  its  being  the  race-week  the  place  was  full. 

I  found  my  husband  residing  in  the  house  of  a  French  lady 
in  Roeland-street,  close  under  Table  Mountain.  This  house  is 
reckoned  amongst  the  most  respectable  houses  of  the  class,  and 
its  situation  at  the  farthest  end  of  the  town  is  desirable  ;  you 
have  quiet  and  fresh  air.  Had  I  arrived  in  the  summer  season 
at  the  Cape  I  should  have  preferred  a  house  at  Wynberg ;  during 
the  winter  time,  Wynberg  being  damp,  the  inhabitants  gene- 
rally come  into  Cape  Town.  In  a  boarding-house  there  are 
many  inconveniences,  but  you  are  saved  the  trouble  of  house- 
keeping, which  to  an  Indian  is  a  most  vile  affair ;  therefore  I 
was  content  to  remain.  The  terms  at  a  boarding-house  are 
seven  shillings  and  sixpence  a  day  for  each  person,  which 
includes  one  bed-room,  food  and  wine  ;  the  food  is  good ;  the 
wine,  which  is  Cape,  is  only  drinkable  for  those  accustomed  to 
it ;  and  the  Cape  beer  I  did  not  venture  to  taste.  House-rent 
is  very  cheap,  and  food  also ;  meat,  threepence  per  pound ;  an 
enormous  fish  costs  twopence ;  a  great  craw-fish  one  penny ;  a 
fine  fowl,  thirteen- pence  halfpenny  ;  a  small  cart  of  fire-wood, 
seven  shillings  and  sixpence. 

The  reports  I  heard  in  Cape  Town  respecting  house-keeping 
in  the  country  were  not  favourable  ;  they  say  the  houses  in  the 
country  are  generally  leaky,  and  the  landlords  will  not  repair 
them  ;  that  the  servants  are  thieves  and  liars,  and,  moreover, 
extremely  dirty,  requiring  constant  overlooking  in  the  kitchen. 
The  houses  in  Cape  Town  are  infested  with  myriads  of  fleas — 
and  such  fleas  ! — perfect  monsters  !  They  have  also  a  fair  pro- 
portion of  bugs. 

lOth. — I  went  to  the  fish  market,  a  square-walled  enclosure 
near  the  Old  Jetty.  The  scene  was  curious  and  animated ; 
Malays,  Hottentots,  Bushmen,  and  queer-looking  people  of  all 
sorts,  ages,  and  tribes,  dressed  out  in  their  gayest  colours,  and 
grinning  like  so  many  monkeys,  were  all  huddled  together  selling 
or  buying  fish.  Cartloads  of  the  most  enormous  craw-fish  lay 
on  the  ground,  crawling  about  and  fighting  each  other  ;  and  on 


THE    FISH  MARKET.  357 

the  ground  near  to  them  were  heaps  of  silver-fish,  and  quantities 
of  Cape  salmon,  and  fish  without  scales,  with  long  thin  bodies 
and  pointed  heads,  which  were  sold  for  one  penny  each, — good 
when  salted  and  smoked ;  and  there  were  also  a  number  of 
queer-looking  fish,  of  all  sorts  and  sizes,  with  unpronounceable 
names.  The  porters  who  attend  the  market  carry  the  fish  away 
in  baskets  slung  to  each  end  of  a  long  pole  balanced  on  the 
shoulder ; — and  such  creatures  as  these  porters  are  !  I  bought  a 
gielbeck  or  yellow  beak,  for  which  I  paid  twopence  ;  the  palate 
of  the  gielbeck  is  yellow,  whence  its  name.  A  Malay  porter 
earned  it  to  the  house  on  a  stick  through  its  gills,  for  which  his 
pay  was  also  twopence, — a  great  price  for  a  very  short  distance, 
compared  with  the  price  of  the  fish,  which  was  a  very  large  one. 
One  day  I  met  a  Bush-boy  dragging  off  a  fish  as  long  as  himself ; 
he  had  a  great  stick  over  his  shoulder,  the  end  of  which  was 
passed  through  one  of  the  gills  of  the  fish,  whilst  the  tail  of  the 
creature  swept  the  ground.  The  high  cheek-boned  little  black 
monster  laughed  and  grinned  as  I  could  not  repress  an  exclama- 
tion at  his  exceeding  and  picturesque  ugliness. 

16/A. — The  year,  they  tell  me,  is  divided  into  two  parts,  the  dry 
and  the  wet, — nine  months  of  dry  weather,  and  three  months  of 
rain  ;  June,  July,  and  August  being  the  cold  and  rainy  months. 
This  day,  the  1 6th  of  May,  it  is  very  cold,  and  may  be  reckoned 
a  winter  month  ;  the  thermometer  in  my  bed-room  at  noon  58°. 
Since  my  arrival  on  the  26th  April  we  have  had  daily  showers, 
and  some  few  days  of  rain ;  still,  between  the  heavy  showers  the 
sun  bursts  forth,  and  a  walk  is  dehghtfiil. 

At  breakfast-time  a  gentleman  related  to  me  an  extraordinary 
history  respecting  slavery  at  the  Cape ;  the  particulars  are  as 
follow  : — "  The  '  Cleopatra '  has  seized  a  BraziUan  vessel — the 
'  Progresso ;'  she  is  a  slaver.  The  '  Cleopatra  '  has  taken  from 
her  thirteen  prisoners  and  forty-eight  slaves ;  with  these  people  • 
she  has  arrived  at  Pappendosh,  a  place  near  Cape  Town,  where 
the  slaves  have  been  landed  ;  the  rest  of  the  slaves  will  follow 
in  the  'Progresso:'  she  has  not  come  in  at  present;  she  was 
taken  in  the  Mozambique  Channel.  The  slaves  will  now  be 
examined  and  classed  according  to  their  ages, — the  age  is  arbi- 


353  WANDERINGS    OK    A    PILGRIM. 

trarily  settled.  They  generally  arrive  branded ;  and  as  without 
some  distinguishing  mark  they  cannot  be  known,  it  is  supposed 
those  who  may  happen  to  have  no  mark  will  be  branded  by  the 
authorities  at  the  Cape.  Blank  indentures  are  to  be  drawn  out, 
in  which  the  age  of  the  slave,  his  marks,  &c.,  will  be  shown 
forth.  The  slaves  are  generally  young,  and  they,  supposing  the 
age  to  be  about  ten  years,  wUl  be  bound  to  the  purchaser  of  the 
indenture  until  the  age  of  twenty-one ;  these  indentures  are  to 
be  sold  by  auction  on  the  Parade  at  Cape  Town  to  the  highest 
bidder.  The  slaves  who  may  be  more  aged  are  to  be  bound  for 
a  certain  term  of  years  to  the  person  who  buys  them,  so  that 
their  slavery  may  be  the  same  with  those  of  earlier  years. 
These  proceedings  are  under  the  authority  of  the  Government ; 
the  motive  is  to  conciliate  the  Dutch,  who  are  generally  the 
purchasers  of  the  slaves." 

As  the  English  hold  forth  that  they  abolish  slavery,  these 
proceedings  appear  curious,  and  I  will  go,  if  possible,  to  see  the 
slaves  sold  on  the  parade.  Although  we  do  not  originally 
capture  the  slaves  we  capture  the  vessels  when  carrying  them 
away,  take  them  into  the  Cape,  and  sell  them  for  our  own  profit 
for  a  certain  term  of  years  to  the  highest  bidder  at  public 
auction.  It  is  mentioned  in  the  indentures  that  the  slaves  are 
to  be  brought  up  in  the  Christian  religion.  It  is  said  the  slaves 
generally  have  no  religion  at  all,  and  their  masters  leave  them  in 
utter  ignorance. 

The  Table  Mountain  is  to  me  a  source  of  constant  enjoyment ; 
I  delight  in  its  varied  appearance  :  at  times  a  dense  white  vapour 
is  spread  over  it, — when  that  passes  away,  the  deep  clear  ultra- 
marine blue  of  the  sky,  covered  with  bright  clouds,  forms  a 
back-ground  to  the  dark  mountain,  whilst,  every  now  and  then, 
a  stormy  grey  cloud  passes  over  all,  and  gives  a  beautiful  effect 
of  light  and  shade. 

I  roamed  the  other  day  up  the  mountain  by  the  side  of  the  tor- 
rent, the  bed  of  which  is  filled  with  large  stones,  over  which  the 
stream  gurgles  and  runs  with  velocity.  Hundreds  of  women  and 
some  few  men  were  all  employed  washing  clothes  by  beating  them 
upon  the  stones  in  the  stream :  some  of  the  women,  with  their 


I 


THE    devil's    peak TARGET   PRACTICE.  359 

infants  tied  upon  their  backs,  were  washing  away,  and  the  whole 
side  of  the  mountain  was  covered  with  linen  drying  on  the  grass. 
How  many  of  the  groups  would  have  formed  an  admirable 
picture,  in  spite  of  the  ugliness  of  these  Malay  and  Hottentot 
animals !  They  ask  four  shilhngs  and  sixpence,  or  three  and 
sixpence  a  dozen  for  washing  clothes,  but  will  generally  take 
two  shillings  and  sixpence,  including  large  and  small.  For  the 
ship  passengers  they  wash  very  badly  ;  for  people  resident  in 
Cape  Town  they  wash  well. 

We  accompanied  a  gentleman  and  his  family  up  the  mountain 
under  the  Devil's  Peak ;  he  was  going  to  teach  his  boys  to  fire 
at  a  target.  They  produced  a  great  heavy  old  pair  of  flint 
pistols,  and  with  these  they  amused  themselves.  I  was  enrolled 
amongst  the  Tyros ;  the  two  gentlemen  were  the  best  shots, — I 
took  rank  as  the  third ;  my  success  charmed  me,  although  I  was 
afraid  of  the  pistol, — the  crazy  old  weapon  was  so  heavy  I  could 
scarcely  take  aim.  A  few  evenings  afterwards  a  pretty  young 
French  lady  accompanied  the  party,  and  fired  remarkably  true. 

25th. — The  sun  during  the  day  is  very  powerful ;  it  does  not 
answer  in  these  latitudes  to  expose  one's  self  to  its  rays  during 
the  noontide  heat.  At  4  p.m.  we  went  on  the  mountain  to 
practise  pistol-shooting ;  we  found  that  after  sunset  there  was 
scarcely  any  twilight,  and  warned  by  the  very  cold,  sharp 
exhalations  from  the  wet  ground,  we  quitted  the  spot  quickly, 
but  not  before  we  had  all  taken  cold. 

June  llth. — The  thermometer  in  my  room  at  noon  53°,  the 
air  sharp  and  very  cold.  Rambled  up  Table  Mountain,  beyond 
the  mill,  from  which  place  the  nan'ow  pathway  is  surrounded  by 
flowers,  even  at  this  early  season,  I  gathered  great  branches  of 
what  is  called  in  England  the  Duke  of  York's  geranium ;  it  was 
not  in  flower,  but  the  scent  of  the  leaves  was  delicious  ;  it  grew 
there  most  luxuriantly ;  when  in  blossom  the  flower  is  Ulac  and 
white.  The  purple  and  white  prickly  heath,  and  the  white 
heath,  were  abundant ;  the  deep  orange-coloured  aromatic 
azaUa,  the  bossistroph  or  honey-plant,  the  fine  white  arum,  and 
the  tall  slender  Ixia,  with  its  pendant  crimson  and  graceful 
blossom,  and  its  small  bulb,  which  shot  up  every  here  and  there. 


360  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

delighted  me  with  their  beauty.  These  plants,  cultivated  with 
so  much  care  in  England,  were  growing  wild  in  every  direction 
surrounding  the  little  stony  sheep-path  I  was  ascending. 

They  say  mechanics  use  the  oil  from  the  tip  of  the  tail  of  the 
Cape  sheep  for  their  machinery,  and  that  it  does  not  become  foul 
in  the  works.  Five  pounds'  weight  of  the  tips  of  the  tails  of  the 
sheep  costs  two  shillings  and  sixpence,  and  produces  two  quarts 
and  a  half  of  fine  clear  oil,  after  having  been  melted  over  the 
fire  and  strained  through  a  flannel  bag.  Animals  in  southern 
Africa  appear  to  run  to  tail :  see  the  enormous  size  of  the  tail 
of  the  sheep  into  which  all  the  fat  of  the  body  appears  to  be 
collected:  see  the  pretty  mousehunt  (a  sort  of  fox),  the  Hot- 
tentot women  in  Cape  Town,  and  the  Bushwomen ;  eill  these 
have  the  beauty  of  the  Hottentot  Venus.  Some  of  the  Malays, 
both  men  and  women,  are  handsome  :  the  Africanders  are  too 
universally  well  known  to  need  description. 

THE    BUSH  WOMAN. 

The  Bojesmans  or  Bushmen  are  a  most  remarkable  race. 
In  one  of  my  solitary  rambles  on  Table  Mountain,  I  came 
suddenly  upon  three  of  these  people,  who  were  squatting  round 
a  small  fire  in  a  cleft  of  the  rock.  Curiosity  induced  me  to 
stop  and  look  at  them ;  they  appeared  to  dislike  my  presence 
and  scrutiny,  and,  as  far  as  I  could  judge  from  the  angry  tone 
of  their  words  and  their  suspicious  glances,  they  were  glad  when 
I  walked  on. 

The  speech  of  the  Bojesmans  is  a  most  remarkable  and  extra- 
ordinary clack  clack — unUke  any  other  language  under  the  sun, 
something  resembling  the  striking  together  of  harsh  castanets. 
The  sketch  represents  a  Bushwoman ;  it  is  a  portrait ;  she  has  a 
bunch  of  bulbs  in  her  hand  :  they  principally  feed  on  roots  and 
vegetables.  Her  attire  is  of  leather ;  coloured  beads  are  around 
her  neck,  her  ear-rings  are  of  ivory,  a  curious  ornament  is  in 
front  of  her  body,  and  her  kraal  or  hut  is  in  the  distance. 

In  1847,  I  saw  four  Bojesmans  who  were  exhibited  at  the 
Egyptian  Hall ;  they  were  handsome  specimens  of  their  kind ; 
the  women   were   younger   than   the   one   represented   in   the 


OnSton*  iy 


A      B  U  ,S  I!  W  0  M  A N 


THE    BUSHWOMAN.  361 

sketch,  still  the  peculiarity  of  the  figure  and  the  style  of  coun- 
tenance stamp  them  of  the  same  race. 

The  following  extract  from  Harris's  "  Wild  Sports  of  Southern 
Africa,"  contains  a  most  interesting  description  of  the  Bush- 
men :  — 

"  At  Kramers-font ein  the  next  day,  a  horrible  spectacle  pre- 
sented itself  to  us  in  the  form  of  an  emaciated  old  Bushwoman, 
who  had  come  down  from  her  kraal,  five  miles  distant,  to  fill 
two  ostrich  eggs  with  water.  '  Grim  misery  had  worn  her  to 
the  bones,'  and  it  is  no  exaggeration  to  say  that  her  attenuated 
form  appeared  a  skeleton  covered  with  a  wet  cloth.  Those 
rounded  proportions,  which  are  given  to  the  human  form  divine, 
had  no  existence  in  her.  Her  skin  resembled  wrinkled  leather ; 
and  I  can  compare  her  legs  and  arms  to  nothing  but  straightened 
sticks,  knobbed  at  the  joints.  Her  body  was  actually  crawling 
with  vermin,  with  which  she  was  constantly  feeding  a  little  half- 
inanimate  miniature  of  herself  in  arms. 

' Wither'd  and  wild  in  her  attire. 


She  look'd  not  like  a  habitant  of  earth, 
And  yet  was  on  it.' 

We  were  glad  to  bribe  her  to  depart  by  a  present  of  tobacco  ; 
and  the  wretched  creature's  countenance  evinced  thankfulness 
at  our  liberality. 

"  The  pigmy  race,  of  which  this  woman  was  a  characteristic 
specimen,  usually  reside  in  holes  and  crannies  of  rocks,  and 
sometimes  in  wretched  huts,  incapable  of  protecting  them  from 
the  inclemency  of  the  seasons.  These,  their  constant  fear  of 
discovery  induces  them  to  erect  in  secluded  spots  at  a  great 
distance  from  water :  a  precaution  to  which  they  are  further 
prompted  by  a  desire  to  leave  the  pools  open  for  wild  animals,  ■ 
which  they  occasionally  shoot  from  an  ambush  with  poisoned 
arrows,  and  devour  on  the  spot.  They  possess  neither  flocks 
nor  herds — are  unacquainted  with  agriculture — and  the  most 
wealthy  can  boast  of  no  property  beyond  his  weapons  and  his 
starving  dog.     With  no  cares  beyond  the  present  moment,  they 


362  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

live  almost  entirely  upon  bulbous  roots,  locusts,  reptiles,  and  the 
larvae  of  ants,  with  the  habitations  of  which  latter  the  country  is 
in  many  places  thickly  strewed.  Not  a  trace  of  their  hovels  could 
be  seen  from  the  road ;  and  a  traveller  might  even  pass  through 
their  country  without  seeing  a  human  being,  or  suspecting  that 
it  was  inhabited.  Such  is  their  general  distrust  of  visitors,  that 
the  males  would  never  vrillingly  approach  us,  evincing  great 
trepidation  when  forced  to  do  so — no  object  being  more  unwel- 
come to  their  sight  than  a  troop  of  horsemen  on  the  plain. 

"  The  women,  who  were  much  less  shy,  and  who  never  failed 
to  follow  the  tracks  of  our  waggons  when  they  happened  to 
come  upon  them,  with  the  hope  of  obtaining  tobacco  in  exchange 
for  ostrich  eggs,  are  of  small  and  delicate  proportions,  with  hands 
and  feet  of  truly  Lilliputian  dimensions.  Their  foot-prints 
reminded  us  of  Gulliver's  adventures,  and  are  not  larger  than 
those  of  a  child.  When  young,  they  have  a  pleasing  expres- 
sion of  countenance,  which  they  take  care  to  render  as  capti- 
vating as  possible  by  bedaubing  their  flat  noses  and  prominent 
cheek-bones  with  a  mixture  of  red-ochre  and  fat.  The  toilets  of 
many  were  made  with  scrupulous  attention,  the  effect  of  the 
paint  being  enhanced  by  necklaces  composed  of  the  fresh  entrails 
of  wild  beasts — a  few  cowrie  shells,  old  bones,  and  buttons 
being  also  interwoven  with  their  matted  hair ;  but  the  life  they 
lead,  their  frequent  long  abstinence,  and  constant  exposure  to 
the  wind  and  glare  of  light  in  a  dry  open  country,  soon  inducing 
the  habit  of  keeping  their  naturally  small  eyes  more  than  half 
closed,  their  comeliness  is  very  ephemeral,  and  never  extends 
beyond  youth.  The  females  possess  much  greater  volubility 
and  animation  of  gesture  than  the  men ;  but  the  sounds  they 
utter  are  a  succession  of  claps  of  the  tongue  produced  by 
forcing  that  unruly  member  against  different  parts  of  the  teeth 
and  palate :  and  whilst  the  enunciation  is  thus  rendered  trouble- 
some and  full  of  impediment,  it  resembles  rather  the  chattering 
of  monkeys  than  the  language  of  human  beings." 

\8th. — ^Thermometer  at  noon  52°. — Sharp  and  very  cold :  the 
scarlet  fever  in  Cape  Town. 

Idth. — Walked  to  Green  Point,  and  gathered  shells  beyond 


GREEN    POINT SHELLS.  363 

the  second  light-house,  which  is  situated  on  a  rocky  shore, 
where  vessels  are  frequently  wrecked,  both  accidentally  and,  it 
is  said,  intentionally.  The  waves  break  beautifully  over  the 
rocks  that  run  out  far  into  the  sea.  The  sand  on  the  shore 
glitters  like  silver,  being  composed  of  fragments  of  pounded 
shells :  there  are  numerous  shells  to  be  found,  but  generally 
broken  by  the  ruggedness  of  the  coast.  The  people  dig  for 
them  here,  and  procure  them  in  great  quantities  out  of  the  sand, 
which  they  sift ;  they  are  sold  to  burn  for  hme,  which  is  made 
at  a  less  cost  from  the  shells  than  from  the  limestone  quarries, 
as  on  the  latter  a  duty  is  levied  by  the  municipality. 

The  rocks  are  covered  with  limpets  of  all  sorts,  and  cockles : 
the  great  ear  shell  (haliotis)  is  common,  the  coat-of-mail  shell 
(chiton)  and  other  species  are  also  numerous.  The  great  ear 
shells  I  have  seen  carried  about  for  sale  in  Cape  Town  at  two- 
pence each  ;  the  people  consider  the  contents  good  food. 

In  Camp's  Bay,  and  other  bays,  I  understand  fine  and  perfect 
specimens  of  a  great  variety  of  shells  are  found  where  the  shore 
is  less  rugged  and  the  sand  good.  The  enormous  size  of  the 
sea-weed  is  quite  surprising,  its  great  stem  is  of  such  length  and 
thickness.  On  removing  a  clump  of  the  sea-weed,  the  sand  is 
alive  with  millions  of  wood-hce,  at  least  I  think  they  are  so  called  ; 
they  make  great  bounds  by  rolling  themselves  up  in  a  ball,  and 
suddenly  opening,  the  strength  of  the  scales  and  the  breadth  of 
the  tail  sending  them  on  at  a  surprising  rate.  It  brought  to  my 
mind  those  early  days  in  which  a  mouse,  with  a  tail  turned 
under  the  body,  and  fixed  with  a  bit  of  cobbler's  wax,  was  made 
to  jump  about  the  room  to  my  great  delight. 

21  si. — Heavy  rain — thermometci  56°  at  noon  ;  the  rain  has 
taken  away  the  great  sharpness  of  the  cold,  which  was  too 
cutting  to  be  pleasant.  In  these  slightly-built  houses,  when 
the  thermometer  was  52°  under  the  mountain,  the  air  w?is 
very  cold  and  clear,  and  peculiarly  sharp  and  crisp.  I  roamed  as 
usual  up  the  mountain ;  it  is  covered  with  honey  bush,  at 
present  in  full  flower,  both  the  red  and  the  white ;  the  protea,  a 
sort  of  honey  bush,  is  now  also  in  flower.  As  I  made  my  way 
along,  myriads  of  small  sugar  birds  started  from  the  bushes, 


364  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

where,  fluttering  over  the  flowers,  they  had  been  dipping  their 
long  slender  beaks  into  the  sweet  juice  below.  The  people 
collect  the  juice  which  flows  in  great  abundance  from  the  flower 
of  the  honey  bush ;  they  warm  it,  and  sell  it  in  quart  bottles 
at  three  shilUngs  a  piece  to  the  druggists,  who  recommend  it 
for  coughs. 

23rd. — Bought  four  rings  of  ivory,  which  the  Kaffirs  wear  as 
bracelets  and  anklets,  formed  after  a  very  simple  fashion.  From 
the  hollow  end  of  the  elephant's  tusk,  where  it  is  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  in  thickness,  a  circle  is  cut  off  one  inch  in  breadth  ; 
in  this  rude  state  it  is  worn  as  an  ornament,  three  or  four  on 
each  leg  and  arm.  Purchased  a  pair  of  bullocks'  horns,  well 
polished,  for  four  shillings ;  but  the  enormous  price  asked  for 
specimens  in  Cape  Town  deterred  me  from  making  as  many 
purchases  as  I  should  otherwise  have  done. 

July  5th. — Heavy  rain  and  very  unpleasant  weather :  the 
people  are  suffering  from  colds  and  sore  throats ;  which  illness, 
they  say,  has  been  brought  by  the  wind  that  blows  over  from 
the  sea  between  Table  Mountain  and  the  Lion's  Head. 

6th. — An  illness,  called  by  the  Capers  the  Sinkings,  is  very 
prevalent ;  it  appears  to  be  a  swelling  or  inflammation  of  the 
glands  of  the  throat. 

7th. — The  middle  of  the  Cape  winter.  Auctions  are  con- 
ducted on  a  curious  principle,  the  lowest  bidder  being  the  pur- 
chaser :  it  is  a  Dutch  practice,  and  rather  difficult  to  com- 
prehend. 

9th. — Walked  beyond  the  hospital  on  the  shore,  where  several 
wrecks  lie  scattered — found  some  pretty  shells.  Robberies  are 
daily  committed  during  the  night  in  Cape  Town  by  the  Malays. 
At  this  time  of  the  year  it  is  their  custom  to  make  presents  to 
their  priests  :  the  presents  must  be  made,  whether  the  men  have 
it  in  their  power  to  offer  them  or  not.  In  the  latter  case  they 
commit  robbery  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  their  spiritual  advisers 
"—several  houses  have  been  broken  into. 

\4th. — Walked  towards  Camp's  Bay  over  the  Lion  Mountain ; 
sketched  some  Cape  aloes  which  were  growing  most  luxuriantly 
on  the  road-side,  where  they  had  been  planted  as  a  hedge — the 


THE    LION    MOUNTAIN.  365 

stem  was  of  the  most  brilliant  crimson  tint — the  prickly  pear 
in  full  bloom,  with  its  white  and  crimson  flower,  and  its  deep 
crimson  buds  mixed  beautifully  with  the  aloes  in  the  fore- 
ground ;  and  in  the  distance  beyond  lay  the  sea  and  the  Blue- 
berg  Mountains.  I  found  a  great  variety  of  the  most  beautiful 
heaths,  also  a  number  of  bulbs.  The  Africander  was  in  bloom, 
as  well  as  those  bulbs  that  give  forth  their  scent  at  sunset.  The 
Malays  are  extremely  partial  to  these  sweet  night-scented  flowers, 
and  collect  them  by  the  handful. 

\7th. — From  the  foot  of  the  Devil's  Peak  I  sketched  the  Lion 
Mountain  ;  it  was  covered  with  a  deep  driving  fog  that  hung  in 
wreaths  not  unlike  a  mane  around  it ;  the  fog  covered  the 
shipping  that  was  just  visible  below  it,  and  the  town  looked 
indistinct :  it  was  a  most  cold  and  unwholesome  day ;  but  I 
gathered  beautiful  flowers  ;  the  arums  and  prickly  pears  were  in 
fuU  bloom. 

29th. — Ascended  the  Lion's  Rump,  and  arrived  at  the  signal- 
post  in  time  to  see  a  magnificent  sunset :  took  a  sketch  of  the 
Lion's  Head,  to  the  right  of  which  was  the  back  of  Table 
Mountain,  and  the  Southern  Ocean  to  the  left.  The  town  and 
the  bay  from  this  mountain  are  seen  to  great  advantage ;  the 
regularity  of  the  plan  on  which  the  town  was  built  by  the  Dutch 
is  excellent.  The  walk  this  evening  delighted  me  ;  my  young 
companions  and  I  sat  down  many  times,  and  employed  ourselves 
with  digging  up  the  bulbs  with  which  the  mountain  is  literally 
covered.  The  size  of  some  of  the  bulbous  roots  is  surprising, 
one  weighed  three  pounds  and  a  quarter,  and  measured  in  cir- 
cumference twenty  inches  and  a  half;  the  height  of  the  bulb 
was  five  inches  and  a  half,  and  the  leaves  were  eleven  inches 
long.  The  fragrance  of  the  flowers  of  the  night-scented  bulbs 
became  delicious  as  we  descended  the  mountain  very  late  in  the 
evening ;  it  is  rich  in  fine  grass,  and  bulbs  innumerable. 

Aug.  4th. — Visited  the  Botanical  Garden  under  the  Lion's 
Head ;  a  number  of  trees  and  plants  from  Australia  are  collected 
there.  The  most  brilliant  African  plant  in  blossom  was  the 
Strelitzia  regina,  with  its  orange  and  purple  blossom,  and  its 
long  wand-Uke  leaves.     The  Kaffir  bread-tree  (Zamia  horrida) 


366  WANDERINOS    OF    A    PILC.Rnr. 

and  the  Zamia  longifolia  are  very  remarkable  ;  gi-ass  trees  from 
Australia  were  there,  but  they  had  perished  from  the  cold. 
When  on  the  Lion's  Head  we  saw  a  very  curious  bulb,  the 
haemanthus  or  blood-flower;  the  bulb  is  of  large  size,  and 
produces  only  two  leaves,  which  turn  back  and  he  open  upon 
the  ground ;  they  have  no  stalk,  and  lie  close  upon  the  earth, 
the  colour  a  bright  green ;  some  of  this  class  have  spotted 
leaves.  The  gardener  told  me  that  the  Bushmen  use  the  juice 
of  the  spotted  hsemanthus  as  poison  for  their  arrows ;  and  my 
young  companions  said,  when  they  were  on  the  frontier  they 
saw  a  Bushman  stick  his  arrow  between  the  two  leaves  down 
into  the  bulb,  and  he  told  them,  in  that  manner  the  Bushmen 
poisoned  their  weapons '. 

In  India  the  Hill-men  from  Rajmal  use  poison  on  their 
arrows ;  it  is  most  powerful  and  fatal,  but  they  will  not  disclose 
from  what  plant  they  obtain  it.  The  Hill-men  at  Almorah 
preserve  the  same  secrecy  on  the  subject.  The  hsemanthus 
toxicaria  has  spotted  leaves  ;  of  these  plants  there  were  many 
in  the  garden,  newly  placed  there,  and  they  had  not  been  there 
long  enough  to  flower. 

Harris,  in  speaking  of  African  poisons,  says  : — "  The  Bechu- 
ana,  with  what  truth  I  know  not,  are  said  occasionally  to 
domesticate  this  stately  bird  (the  ostrich)  for  equestrian  purposes  ; 
and  the  puny  Bushman  avails  himself  of  the  disguise  afforded 
by  its  skin  to  mix  with  a  troop  of  wild  animals,  and  select  his 
victim.  At  the  twang  of  his  tiny  bow  away  scours  the  herd  in 
dire  consternation,  and,  more  alarmed  than  all,  off"  scuds  the 
impostor  with  them,  again  propelling  a  shaft  as  soon  as  the 
panic  has  subsided.  The  destruction  committed  in  this  manner 
is  incredible :  a  slender  reed,  only  slightly  barbed  with  bone  or 
iron,  but  imbued  with  a  subtle  poison,  and  launched  with 
unerring  dexterity,  being  sufficient  to  destroy  the  most  powerful 
animal. 
*     "  The  principal  ingredient  of  this  deadly  bane   is   said,  by 

'  See  the  two  leaves  of  this  bulb  in  the  foreground  of  the  portrait  of  the 
Biisbwoman. 


POISONED    ARROWS THE    PUFF-ADDER.  367 

Pringle,  to  consist  of  the  venom  of  the  most  dangerous  serpents 
that  infest  the  desert.  In  seizing  and  extracting  the  poison 
from  beneath  the  fangs  of  the  fatal  puff-adder,  or  the  cobra-di- 
capello,  the  despised  African  displays  the  most  wonderful 
dexterity  and  boldness  ;  simply  placing  his  naked  foot  on  the 
neck  of  the  writhing  reptile,  and  not  unfrequently  closing  the 
exhibition  of  his  intrepidity  by  fearlessly  swallowing  the  contents 
of  the  bag  he  has  extracted,  as  a  supposed  antidote,  or  rather  as 
an  effectual  charm  against  the  deleterious  consequence  of  the 
venom,  should  it  ever  be  accidentally  brought  into  contact  with 
his  blood.  Being  of  itself  too  thin  and  volatile  to  retain  its 
powers  long  unimpaired,  this  animal  poison  is  skilfully  concocted 
into  a  black  glutinous  substance,  by  the  due  admixture  of 
powerful  vegetable  and  mineral  poisons ;  the  former  being 
generally  obtained  from  the  root  of  a  species  of  amaryllis,  called 
by  the  colonists  the  gift-bol,  or  poison-bulb  ;  whilst  the  latter  is 
an  unctuous  or  bituminous  substance,  which  is  seiid  to  exude 
from  certain  rocks  and  caverns  that  exist  in  particular  parts  of 
the  Bushman's  country." 

On  the  mountain  we  found  the  ornithogalum,  the  star  of 
Bethlehem,  in  abundance  ;  it  was  like  a  weed  in  the  garden. 
The  ferania  was  there,  with  its  spider-like  flower ;  and  the  oxalis 
(woodsorrel) ,  with  its  most  brilliant  pink  flowers  ;  the  name  of 
the  enormous  bulb  I  was  unable  to  discover.  The  Australian  pine 
was  in  great  beauty  in  the  garden  ;  also  the  melaleuca  kyapootie, 
with  its  most  curious  bark.  When  you  tear  off  a  part  of  it  you 
may  separate  it  into  layers  as  fine  as  gold-beaters'  skin,  and  it  is 
of  the  same  colour.  Another  sort  has  a  coarser  bark,  and  is 
used  to  cover  hooqu  snakes  in  India ;  fire-screens  are  made  of 
this  bark  in  America,  and  ingeniously  ornamented  with  beads. 
The  Zamia  longifoha  and  the  grass  tree  are  distorted-looking 
productions,  holding  in  outward  appearance  the  same  place 
amongst  plants  as  a  man  afflicted  with  elephantiasis  does 
amongst  human  beings.  The  bottle  brush  tree  was  in  full 
bloom.  The  garden  is  very  well  worth  visiting ;  the  gardener 
is  civil  and  intelligent. 

^th. — I  started  to  walk  to  the  Plaat  Clip,  or  flat  stone  ;  it  is 


368  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

half-way  up  Table  Mountain  ;  a  favourite  place  of  resort  for 
parties  from  Cape  Town.  It  is  a  beautiful  spot :  over  the  broad 
top  of  a  bare  rock  a  stream  of  water  pours  down  with  great 
velocity,  and  rushes  down  the  side,  forming  a  beautiful  but  small 
waterfall.  Trees  ornament  the  spot,  and  luxuriant  bunches  of 
the  arum  in  full  bloom  are  dotted  amongst  the  rocks  with 
picturesque  effect.  The  ruin  of  a  house  stands  there ;  its 
history  appears  unknown, — divers  romantic  tales  were  told  me 
concerning  this  ruin.  It  is  situated  on  a  lovely  and  picturesque 
spot,  very  attractive  to  a  person  fond  of  solitude.  After  a  long 
walk  and  much  clambering  among  the  rocks,  we  returned  laden 
with  flowers.  Nothing  can  be  more  agreeable  than  spending 
the  day  at  the  Plaat  CUp. 


-^  " 


On  3lTO«  "by 


A     KAFFIR     WARRIOR. 


(/^{.^ 


CHAPTER    LXIII. 


SCENES  AT  THE  CAPE.— THE  TEMPLE  OF  JAGANATH. 

A  Kafir  Warrior  —  The  Kaross  —  Vegetable  Ivory  —  Shells — Changeable 
Weather — The  Races — Dutch  Beauties — Newlands — Cape  Horses — The 
Arum — The  Aloe — Servants  at  the  Cape — Pedigree  of  a  Malay — The  Cook 
— The  Washerwoman — Africanders — Shops  in  Cape  Town — The  "  Robarts  " 
— View  from  the  Ship  in  the  Bay — The  Muharram — The  Southern  Cross — 
The  Sailor  and  the  Shark — Madras — Katmirams — Masulla  Boats — The  New 
Lighthouse  —  The  Mint — She-Asses — Donies — Descendants  of  Milton — 
The  Globe-Fish — Pooree — The  Surf — Temple  of  Jaganath — The  Swing — 
The  Rath— Death  of  Krishna — The  Architect  of  the  Gods— Jaganath— The 
Trinity — The  Seal — Ancient  City  near  Pooree — Dangerous  Shore — The 
Floating  Light — The  Sandheads — Anchored  at  Baboo  Ghat,  Calcutta — 
Wilful  Burning  of  the  "  Robarts." 

A    KAFIR    WARRIOR. 

1843,  Aug. — The  portrait  of  the  Kafir  warrior  in  the  sketch  re- 
presents him  with  his  shield  of  leather,  of  which  the  proper  height 
when  placed  on  the  ground  is  to  reach  to  the  chin ;  his  assegai 
or  spear  is  in  his  hand,  high  feathers  adorn  his  head,  and  we  will 
suppose  he  has  left  his  kaross  in  his  hut,  it  being  the  only, 
and  the  garment  usually  worn  by  the  Kafirs.  Tliis  sketch  of  an 
African  Warrior  may  prove  acceptable,  as  the  war  now  being 
carried  on  excites  so  much  interest  in  England.  I  heard  that 
the  dragoons  were  much  disgusted  at  being  forced  to  ride  down 
and  shoot  the  Kafirs  ;  who, — although  they  fight  well, — if  they 
are  overtaken  in  flight,  throw  themselves  on  the  ground,  and 
plead  for  life.     They  are  tall,  fine,  and  powerful  men,  and  their 

VOL.  II.  B  b 


L 


370  ,  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PII.ORIM. 

colour  a  good  clear  brown.  I  have  heard  it  asserted  that  the 
Kafirs  never  eat  salt ;  if  it  be  true,  it  is  a  most  remarkable 
singularity.  The  only  garment  worn  by  them  is  the  kaross  : 
for  one  made  of  the  skin  of  the  wild-cat,  consisting  of  fourteen 
skins,  they  demand  in  Cape  Town  three  pounds  fifteen  shillings  ; 
for  one  of  the  skin  of  the  red  jackal,  containing  sixteen  skins, 
and  very  large,  four  pounds.  A  riding-whip  of  the  rhinoceros  or 
hippopotamus  hide,  called  a  sjambok,  costs  three  shillings  and 
sixpence,  which,  considering  that  the  price  on  the  frontier  is  four- 
pence  halfpenny,  is  a  tolerably  good  per  centage.  At  least,  this 
is  the  price  demanded  from  Indians,  who  appear  to  be  the 
natural  prey  of  the  people  at  the  Cape,  who  are  leagued  together 
to  pluck  the  Hindus.  There  is  one  price  for  the  EngUsh, 
one  for  the  Dutch,  and  one  for  the  Africanders. 

The  manner  in  which  the  skins  of  the  red  jackals  are  pre- 
pared by  the  Kafirs  is  remarkable ;  the  skin,  which  is  originally 
very  thick  and  coarse,  is  rubbed  down  with  a  stone  until  it 
becomes  very  thin,  soft,  and  deUcate  ;  and  the  way  in  which  the 
skins  are  sewed  together  to  form  the  kaross  or  mantle  is  excellent, 
the  workmanship  is  so  neat  and  so  good.  The  Kafir  wears  the  fur 
of  this  garment  next  to  his  own  skin  during  the  winter,  and  in  the 
summer  he  wears  the  fur  outside  for  the  sake  of  coolness. 

The  corassa  nut,  or  vegetable  ivory,  is  unknown  in  Cape 
Town.  In  London  they  told  me  it  was  brought  from  America, 
and  also  from  the  Cape  ;  I  took  a  specimen  with  me  and  showed 
it  to  the  people,  but  found  it  was  utterly  unknown  there. 

I3th. — Very  cold,  rainy,  and  windy  weather, — the  middle  of 
the  Cape  winter — thermometer  53°, — very  sharp  and  bitter,  after 
heavy  rains  for  some  days  ;  rheumatic  and  nervous  complednts 
prevalent. 

I9th. — Collected  shells  off  the  second  lighthouse  at  Green 
Point ;  sea  eggs,  of  all  colours  and  most  brilliant  tints,  were  in 
large  quantities ;  the  waves  beat  beautifully  over  the  rocks,  and 
the  shore  was  delightful. 

21sL — Very  much  warmer  weather,  quite  the  heat  of  an 
Indian  hot  wind, — by  far  too  hot  to  venture  out  in  the  sun. 

22nd. — What  can  be   more   suddenly   changeable   than   the 


NEWLANDS.  3/1 

weather  at  the  Cape  ?  yesterday  a  burning  sun,  to-day  a  south- 
east wind  covering  the  mountain  with  a  shroud,  the  wind 
howHng  and  roaring  round  the  house,  a  heavy  gale  blowing,  and 
the  street  filled  every  minute  with  blinding  clouds  of  dust  and 
fine  stones,  that,  whirling  up,  cut  against  your  face,  as  with  shut 
eyes  you  strive  to  make  your  way.  The  houses  are  thinly  built, 
unfitted  for  the  cUmate ;  the  chimneys  smoke,  and  nothing  can 
be  more  disagreeable  than  a  residence  here  at  present.  The  ships 
in  the  harbour  had  need  look  well  to  their  anchors,  to  prevent 
their  being  driven  out  to  sea  in  such  a  fierce  gale. 

26th. — A  quiet  day,  after  a  south-easter  that  has  blown  for 
three  days. 

Sept.  28th. — Went  to  the  races,  which  took  place  by  the  light- 
house at  Green  Point.  Having  heard  a  great  deal  respecting  the 
beauty  of  the  Dutch  girls,  I  was  induced  to  go  to  the  race-ball 
to  see  them,  and  was  much  disappointed  in  my  expectations. 

Oct.  7th. — We  quitted  Cape  Town,  and  went  to  reside  at 
Newlands.  This  place  was  formerly  the  residence  of  Lord  Charles 
Somerset,  the  Governor  of  the  Cape :  the  house  is  situated  in 
the  midst  of  fine  woods,  and  noble  avenues  of  oak ;  the  roses 
and  geraniums  are  most  luxuriant.  The  Table  Mountain,  seen 
through  the  avenues  at  the  back  of  the  house,  is  calm  and 
beautiful :  the  view  in  front  extends  across  fine  woods,  termi- 
nated by  the  Blueberg  Mountains.  This  is  a  delightful  place, — 
the  avenues  offer  perpetual  shade,  and  the  flowers  are  a  luxury. 
Newlands  is  well  situated  as  a  residence  ;  the  walks  around  are 
numerous  and  beautiful, — I  enjoyed  those  especially  around  the 
back  of  the  Table  Mountain,  where  there  are  a  profusion  of  wild 
flowers.  On  the  road  to  Paradise  the  view  of  the  opposite 
mountains  and  Simon's  Bay  to  the  right  is  very  inter- 
esting ;  there  is  still  a  garden  at  Paradise,  but  the  house  is  in 
ruins. 

llth. — The  rides  are  most  agreeable  ;  how  happy  I  am  to  be 
on  horseback  again  !  I  look  with  regret  on  the  months  I  lost 
by  spending  them  in  Cape  Town,  shut  up  in  Roeland-street ;  it 
is  so  deUcious  in  the  country, — ^we  are  about  six  or  seven  miles 

Bb2 


372  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

from  the  town,  an  agreeable  distance.  Bought  two  handsome 
Cape  riding  horses ;  they  carried  me  pleasantly  at  times,  but 
were  both  very  timid  ;  they  tell  me  timidity  is  the  general  fault 
of  the  horses  at  the  Cape, — it  was  absurd  the  trouble  these 
horses  gave  ere  you  could  induce  them  to  pass  a  flock  of  sheep. 
They  would  make  a  handsome  pair  for  a  carriage,  and  would  sell 
well  as  such  in  Calcutta,  besides  paying  their  passage. 

Nov.  26<A.— Drove  to  Wynberg ;  saw  an  arum  in  Mrs.  Usher's 
garden  that  I  thought  remarkable.  On  the  large  bright  green 
leaf  were  white  transparent  marks  ;  the  length  of  the  flower 
thirty  inches,  the  breadth  eight  inches ;  the  inside  of  the  flower 
was  of  a  deep,  beautiful,  and  rich  claret  colour.  How  profuse 
of  beauty  is  nature  to  the  flowers  at  the  Cape !  There  was  also 
an  aloe  at  the  same  place  of  such  enormous  size,  it  was  quite  a 
sight, — a  gigantic  plant.  I  regret  very  much  I  did  not  sketch 
or  measure  it ;  it  was  the  finest  aloe  I  ever  beheld. 

Never  did  I  meet  with  such  servants  as  those  at  the  Cape, — 
drunkards,  thieves,  and  liars, — the  petty  annoyances  these 
people  give  are  enough  to  destroy  the  pleasure  of  living  in  this 
fine  climate  and  beautiful  country ;  had  it  not  been  for  the 
plague  of  the  servants  I  should  have  felt  sorrow  in  quitting 
Africa.  A  Malay  man-servant  of  ours,  speaking  of  his  family,  said, 
"  My  father  was  only  a  lieutenant,  but  the  father  of  my  wife's 
eldest  son,  he  was  a  very  great  man  ! — he  was  a  colonel !  he  gave 
her  the  cottage.  Though  the  son  is  but  a  boy  he  has  so  much 
English  spirit  in  him,  that  I  am  afraid  of  beating  him  ;  don't  you 
think  the  other  children  are  very  like  me  ?  The  friends  of  many 
women  are  only  captains  or  Heutenants  ;  my  wife's  friend  was  a 
colonel ! — we  are  all  Uke  this !  " 

In  India,  if  a  man  is  ashamed  of  his  poor  relations,  the 
following  is  applied  to  him  :  "  The  mule  was  asked,  '  Who  is 
your  father?'     He  said,   '  The  horse  is  my  maternal  uncle  '.'  " 

My  Malay  servant  had  no  shame  at  all :  "  There  is  no  physic 
for  false  ideas  ^"  To  have  attempted  to  have  enlightened  his 
mind  on  the  subject  in  which  he  took  pride,  would  have  been  as 

'  Oriental  Proverbs  and  Sayings,  No.  131.  '  Ibid.  No.  132. 


SERVANTS    AT    THE    CAPE.  373 

useless  as  "To  pound  water  in  a  mortar'" — that  is,  it  would 
have  been  labour  in  vain. 

We  were  supplied  from  Wynberg  with  most  excellent  bread, 
very  good  mutton  and  poultry,  vegetables,  and  fruits. 

1844,  Jan.  6th. — For  the  last  week  we  have  had  days  of  burning 
heat — almost  Indian  heat,  with  very  chilly  evenings  after  sunset ; 
heavy  rain  has  cooled  the  air  to-day,  and  rendered  the  atmosphere 
dehcious.  Newlands  is  at  present  the  property  of  a  Dutch 
gentleman,  Mr.  Crugwagen. 

The  servants  are  very  cool  at  the  Cape ;  my  Malay  cook  came 
to  me  in  Christmas  week,  to  say  she  could  not  dress  my  dinner 
on  three  days  in  the  coming  week,  as  she  was  going  out  to 
dinner  parties  herself  at  the  houses  of  some  of  her  friends.  I 
objected  to  going  without  dinner  to  oblige  her,  and  at  last  was 
forced  to  dine  on  those  days  at  an  early  hour,  that  she  might 
be  off  at  4  p.  M.  to  her  parties. 

Two  of  my  white  muslin  gowns  came  from  the  wash  with  the 
sleeves  spht  open,  and  a  very  deep  tuck  in  the  skirt ;  I  found  they 
had  been  lent  or  hired  out  to  an  Africander,  who  was  shorter  than 
myself,  and  had  very  robust  arms.  The  people  are  extremely 
fond  of  balls  and  gaieties,  which  they  attend  dressed  out  in  the 
gayest  colours ;  and  you  sometimes  see  a  fine  French  cambric 
handkerchief  bordered  with  deep  lace  in  the  black  fist  of  a  floor- 
scrubbing  Hottentot,  as  she  walks  grinning  along  to  join  a 
dancing  party.  The  Africanders  are  very  dirty  in  their  persons, 
and  they  rub  their  bodies  with  a  vUe-smelling  oil ;  the  presence 
of  a  musk-rat  is  quite  as  agreeable  as  that  of  a  Hottentot  in  a 
room.  They  appear  to  have  a  taste  for  music,  judging  from  the 
correct  manner  in  which  I  have  heard  the  children  singing 
various  airs  on  the  mountain. 

I  do  not  particularly  admire  the  shops  in  Cape  Town.  I  was 
taken  to  a  store,  as  they  call  it,  and  bought  a  quantity  of  Irish- 
linen  ;  as  soon  as  the  Unen  was  washed,  after  having  been  made 
into  jackets,  it  fell  into  holes  and  was  useless.  At  a  shop  in  the 
Heerengratch  I  purchased  two  pieces  of  mousseline-de-laine ;  it  was 

'  Ibid.  No.  133. 


374  WANDERINGS   OF    A   PILGRIM. 

quite  rotten,  and  soon  became  like  tinder.  Perhaps  the  people 
buy  damaged  goods  at  auction,  and  retail  them  in  the  shops. 
Certainly,  the  Hindus — as  they  here  denominate  gentlemen  from 
India — meet  with  Uttle  mercy  from  the  Capers  of  a  certain  class. 

8^^. — The  "  Robarts  "  having  arrived,  we  determined  to  sail 
in  her,  and  came  into  Cape  Town,  to  prepare  for  our  departure  •, 
what  a  contrast  was  the  extreme  heat  of  the  town  to  the  shade, 
the  quiet,  the  coolness  of  the  country  ! 

1 1  th. — Having  secured  the  stem  poop  cabin  below  and  the 
cabin  next  to  it,  we  came  on  board ;  we  were  much  pleased  with 
the  ship,  and  more  so  with  the  captain  and  officers, — ^they  were 
anxious  to  render  us  every  assistance,  and  save  us  all  trouble  and 
annoyance. 

I2th. — At  5  P.M.  a  breeze  sprang  up,  and  we  quitted  Table 
Bay.  The  view  of  the  bay  was  beautiful,  the  mountains  were 
darkly  set  against  a  bright  sky,  the  sun  streaming  between  the 
Lion's  Head  and  the  Table  Mount,  shone  with  yellow  and  red 
gleams  upon  the  hot  dust  that  enveloped  Cape  Town;  the 
mountains  were  dark  and  misty,  the  sea  a  deep  blue,  with 
white-crested  waves ;  and  the  houses  near  the  water  standing 
out  of  a  brilliant  white.  The  wind  was  high,  the  sun  bright,  the 
clouds  were  flying  quickly,  and  the  white  sheet  was  beginning  to 
gather  on  the  mountain. 

27th. — Unpleasant  weather :  I  cannot  get  over  this  mal-de- 
mer,  and  the  attendant  miserable  feelings. 

30th. — The  native  sailors  celebrated  the  Muharram  with 
single-stick  playing,  dances,  and  songs  ;  Captain  Elder  gave  them 
a  fat  sheep  and  a  bag  of  rice  to  add  to  their  repast,  and  awarded 
prizes  of  gaily-coloured  handkerchiefs  to  the  best  performers. 
The  crew  were  Lascars,  the  officers  European. 

Feb.  2nd. — It  is  very  rainy  and  most  uncomfortable;  the 
deep  sea  fog  creeps  into  every  bone ;  long  faces  are  in  all 
^-   directions. 

3rd. — A  most  lovely  day :  a  fair  wind,  which  was  also  cold 
and  bracing, — bright  sunshine,  good  spirits,  and  happy  looks 
around  us. 

4th. — Since  I  entered  the  "  Robarts  "  I  have  never  had  cause 


THE    SOUTHERN    CROSS.  375 


D 


to  utter  one  complaint ;  Captain  Elder  is  most  attentive  and  kind 
to  all  his  passengers,  and  the  officers  follow  his  example.  The 
servants  are  attentive,  the  dinners  and  breakfasts  excellent,  and 
the  steward  sends  to  any  one  who  is  inclined  to  remain  in  their 
cabin  all  and  every  little  luxury  so  acceptable  to  a  sick  person  at 
sea.  All  this  is  done  willingly  and  cheerfully, — no  pretext  that 
the  articles  are  in  the  hold,  no  delay,  and  no  grumbling.  The 
cook  is  excellent ;  he  bakes  the  bread,  which  is  also  excellent, 
and  in  profusion ;  and  every  plate  and  knife  is  as  clean  and 
bright  as  on  shore, — a  good  proof  of  a  good  steward,  who  will 
allow  of  no  neglect  in  those  who  are  under  his  orders.  After 
the  miserable  dirtiness  and  half-starvation  of  the  former  vessel, 
the  neglect  when  iU,  and  the  discomfort,  I  cannot  sufficiently 
admire  the  excellent  regulations  and  order  on  board  the 
"  Robarts." 

8th. — A  calm.  A  native  jumped  overboard,  and  caught  an 
albatross  that  was  feeding  on  some  pork  ;  the  boat  was  lowered, 
and  the  passengers  shot  five  fine  albatross  that  were  in  large 
numbers  round  the  vessel. 

9th. — Passed  neeir  the  islands  of  Amsterdam  and  St.  Paul's. 

THE   SOUTHERN   CROSS. 

\Oth.—La.t.  S.  35°  54',  long.  E.  79°  28'.  I  was  called  on  deck  at 
10  P.M.  to  witness  an  extraordinary  appearance  at  the  rising  of  the 
moon  :  it  was  very  dark, — a  heavy  black  cloud  spread  along  the 
horizon,  in  the  midst  of  which  the  half-moon  on  the  edge  of  the 
sea  shone  forth  of  an  ominous  dark  red  colour  in  the  fog,  and 
was  reflected  on  the  waves.  One  solitary  bird  alone  broke  the 
darkness  of  the  sea.  Above,  in  the  deep  blue  sky,  the  Southern 
Cross  shone  in  beauty  ;  the  Pointers  in  Centaurus  were  briUiant, 
and  the  black  Magellan  cloud  was  distinctly  visible  between  the 
stars  in  the  Cross,  looking  hke  a  hollow  in  the  sky.  Alluding  to 
the  Cross  of  the  South  :—"  Una  croce  maravigliosa,  e  di  tanta 
bellezza,"  says  Andrea  Corsah,  a  Florentine,  writing  to  Giuhano 
Medicis,  in  1515,  "che  non  mi  pare  ad  alcuno  segno  celeste 
doverla  comparare.     E  sio  non  mi  inganno  credo  che  sia  questo 


376  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

il  crusero  di  che  Dante  parlb  nel  principio  del  Purgatorio  com 
spirito  profetico,  dicendo,  f 

"  lo  mi  volsi  a  man  destra,  e  posi  mente 
Air  altro  polo,  e  vidi  quattro  stelle 
Non  viste  mai,  fuor  ch'alla  prima  gente. 
Coder  pareva'l  ciel  di  lor  fiammelle. 
O  settentrional  vedovo  sito, 
Poiche  privato  se'di  mirar  quelle ! " 

It  is  still  sacred  in  the  eyes  of  the  Spaniards  :  "  Un  sentiment 
religieux  les  attache  k  une  constellation  dont  la  forme  leur 
rapelle  ce  signe  de  la  foi  plants  par  leurs  ancestres  dans  les 
deserts  du  nouveau  monde." 

A  lantern  was  held  for  me  by  the  chief  officer  while  I  took 
the  sketch,  to  enable  me,  as  he  said,  to  see  the  stars. 

20th. — The  thermometer  81°  in  my  cabin,  and  84°  in  the 
stern  cabin  above.  The  new  moon  was  most  beautiful.  Venus 
looked  of  surprising  size,  and  threw  her  light  across  the  sea  like 
a  moon  light. 

2lst. — The  trade  wind  blows  calmly  and  sweetly ;  we  only 
make  about  100  knots  a  day,  and  the  heat  is  oppressive ;  but 
the  starry  nights  are  brilliant,  and  the  air  at  that  time  is  most 
luxuriously  cool,  fresh,  and  soft. 

23rd. — Tliermometer  82° — A  calm — the  boats  were  lowered, 
and  a  purse  made  for  a  boat  race  for  the  native  crew,  which 
aiforded  amusement — the  heat  at  night  was  intense. 

25th. — Calm  again — how  much  patience  is  requisite  during  a 
voyage  at  sea! 

29th. — A  dead  calm — the  heat  excessive,  quite  overpowering, 
far  beyond  the  heat  of  India.  Heavy  rain,  a  water-spout  seen — 
a  little  breeze  in  the  evening — recrossed  the  line  during  the 
night. 

March  ]st. — The  heat  renders  all  exertion,  mental  or  bodily, 
almost  impossible.  A  heavy  squall  at  noon,  with  powerful 
*  thunder  and  lightning  followed  by  a  calm.  No  sooner  are  we 
refreshed  by  a  breeze,  than  torrents  of  rain  fall  and  the  calm 
returns.  When  shall  we  pick  up  the  monsoon  ? — we  creep 
along  at  a  weary  pace. 


MADRAS KATMIRAMS.  377 

3rd. — The  evening  brought  the  north-east  monsoon  ;  it  blew 
very  gently,  the  air  was  soft  and  sweet,  and  the  ship  in  perfect 
quietude  moved  beneath  the  soft  moonlight ;  it  was  one  of  those 
delicious  evenings  peculiar  to  the  trade  winds. 

4th. — Almost  perfectly  calm — the  boat  was  lowered,  and  a  blue 
shark  was  caught ;  it  measured  nine  feet  and  a  half, — a  most 
ferocious-looking  beast.  This  shark  was  most  curiously  caught 
in  a  noose  by  the  third  mate.  The  captain  had  a  bait  over  the 
boat,  of  which  the  shark  was  shy ;  but  seeing  the  naked  arms  of 
the  mate  in  the  water,  he  darted  towards  him  and  was  caught  in 
the  noose  he  had  laid  for  him.  After  the  sailors  had  dined,  a  man 
of  the  name  of  Stewart  having  had  too  much  grog,  went  in  the 
boat  to  catch  another  shark  with  the  third  officer  and  some 
cadets.  The  shark  took  the  bait,  Stewart  gave  him  a  pull 
towards  the  boat,  the  beast  gave  a  spring,  Stewart  renewed  his 
pull,  and  into  the  bows  of  the  boat  plunged  the  shark  head- 
long. The  cadets  had  fired  four  balls  into  him,  which  was 
fortunate,  the  creature  was  rather  stunned,  but  Stewart  held 
him,  with  the  hook  in  one  hand,  the  fingers  of  the  other  hand 
in  his  eye,  and  the  body  of  the  fish  between  his  legs !  In  this 
fearful  position  the  drunken  man  and  the  fish  struggled  together, 
the  man  calling  out,  "  Poor  creature,  don't  hurt  him  !  "  however, 
in  spite  of  his  outcry,  the  mate  chopped  off  the  tail  of  the  shark, 
which  disabled  him,  after  which  they  pitched  him  out  of  the 
boat  and  towed  him  to  the  ship  :  he  measured  six  feet.  Several 
sucking  fish  fell  off  the  shark  into  the  boat :  this  scene  I  saw 
from  my  port,  the  boat  was  but  a  stone's  throw  from  the  ship. 
Thermometer  86° — not  a  breath  of  air,  and  a  dead  calm — a 
lovely  moonlight,  and  we  were  cheered  at  night  by  the  freshening 
of  the  monsoon. 

\Oth. — Anchored  off  Madras  about  11  a.m. — On  approaching 
Madras,  a  range  of  low  hills  are  first  seen,  the  land  lies  very 
low  ;  after  a  time  the  town  appears  at  a  distance.  On  the  left 
the  church  in  the  fort  is  visible,  the  signal  staff  and  the  old 
lighthouse,  beyond  which  is  the  new  lighthouse,  and  in  front  of 
the  latter  is  the  evening  drive  on  the  beach.  A  post-office 
MasuUa  boat,  with  her  flag  flying,  was  coming  off"  to  the  ship 


378  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

for  the  letter  bags.  The  sea  was  as  calm  as  possible ;  hundreds 
of  katmirams,  or  as  they  are  usually  called  catamarans,  were  in 
every  direction  out  fishing.  The  appearance  was  most  singular ; 
the  catamarans  sunk  in  the  water  were  invisible  from  a  distance, 
and  the  natives  on  them  appeared  to  be  standing  or  sitting  on  the 
sea — reminding  me  of  the  mahout  as  he  appeared  when  swim- 
ming his  elephant  in  the  Ganges,  standing  erect  on  his  back, 
and  guiding  him  by  the  strings  in  his  ears. 

Some  of  the  catamarans  contained  only  one  man,  some 
two ;  their  dark  bodies  were  almost  perfectly  naked,  and 
their  heads  adorned  by  a  white  or  red  cloth  bound  around 
them. 

Three  or  four  rough  logs  lashed  together  is  all  that  forms  a 
catamaran :  in  some  a  few  bits  of  wood  fastened  in  front  form 
a  low  bow — very  original  and  simple  concerns.  Sometimes 
these  singular  contrivances  carry  a  triangular  sail  stuck  on  a 
pole.  Very  good  models  of  MasuUa  boats  and  catamarans  are 
to  be  purchased  on  the  shore  at  Madras.  The  MasuUa  boat  is 
a  large  high  unwieldy  boat  consisting  of  thin  planks  sewed  toge- 
ther with  cocoa-nut  fibres,  and  the  seams  filled  up  inside  with 
the  same :  they  offer  little  resistance  when  run  on  shore  through 
the  surf.  The  crew  consists  of  twelve  men.  Rafts  are  employed 
to  bring  off  carriages  to  vessels.  The  accommodation  boat, 
a  superior  sort  of  MasuUa  boat,  is  fitted  up  with  seats  in  the 
stern,  and  an  awning  to  protect  passengers  from  the  surf  when 
landing,  as  well  as  from  the  sun.  The  crew  do  not  encumber 
themselves  with  too  much  attire ;  their  dresses  are  generally 
white,  ornamented  with  some  gaily-coloured  edging,  a  vandyke 
of  red  or  blue.  The  boats  are  unsightly,  awkward  concerns, 
standing  high  and  clumsily  out  of  the  water. 

The  half-revolving  light  of  the  new  lighthouse  is  splendid, 
flashing  and  twinkling,  appearing  in  great  brilliancy,  and  then 
dying  away  to  a  speck,  then  bursting  forth  again  in  all  its 
radiance.     A  light  no  mariner  could  mistake. 

I2th. — A  number  of  boats  are  alongside  with  curiosities  for 
sale  ;  the  deck  is  covered  with  a  marveUous  collection  of  extra- 
ordinary things,  sheUs,  monkeys, parroquets,  and  ill-stuffed  fishes; 


MADRAS THE    MINT.  379 

and  there  is  a  great  noise  created  from  landing  horses  and  dis- 
charging cargo. 

I3th. — Our  friend  Mr.  R came  in  an  accommodation  boat 

to  take  us  on  shore.  The  day  was  quite  calm,  but  the  surf,  even 
little  as  there  was  of  it,  was  surprising  to  a  stranger ;  nothing 
would  form  a  better  subject  for  a  picture  than  landing  in  the 
surf  at  Madras.  The  Masulla  boat  went  bumping  on  shore, 
and  her  side  having  been  hauled  to  the  beach,  the  passengers 
were  put  into  chairs,  and  landed  by  the  men.  The  drives  are 
good,  and  there  is  much  open  space  around  Madras.  At  the 
end  of  three  miles,  we  reached  our  destination — most  glad  was 
I  to  be  out  of  the  ship  !  The  house  appeared  to  rock  for  some 
hours  after  our  arrival,  which  was  singular,  as  the  ship  we  had 
quitted  was  perfectly  still,  and  at  anchor.  Here  we  enjoyed  the 
luxury  of  fish,  cucumbers,  and  fresh  butter.  At  Madras  they 
appear  only  to  use  the  pankha  at  the  time  of  meals.  The  fresh 
sea  breeze  comes  in  most  agreeably,  nevertheless,  a  pankha 
constantly  going  would  be  very  acceptable. 

\4th. — The  evening  drive  round  the  island,  as  it  is  called, 
and  along  the  sea-shore,  is  pleasant ;  the  fine  cool  sea  breeze 
carries  off  all  the  languor  produced  by  the  heat  of  the  day.  The 
statue  of  Sir  Thomas  Munro,  on  the  Mount  road,  in  the  island, 
is  a  handsome  object :  the  roads  are  never  watered  at  Madras, 
and  the  carriages  appear  inferior  to  those  in  Calcutta. 

I6th. — ^Visited  the  Mint,  and  was  much  interested  in  the 
process  of  coining  and  assaying.  We  quitted  our  friends  after 
sunset,  and  were  taken  in  a  Masulla  boat  very  cleverly  through 
the  three  ranges  of  surf,  perfectly  unwetted,  to  the  "  Robarts." 
The  days  are  very  hot,  the  evenings  cool  and  delicious  :  to-night 
there  is  not  a  ripple  on  the  sea. 

The  fresh  sea  breeze  blowing  in  upon  me  made  me  sleep 
delightftiUy,  and  I  was  free  from  the  annoyance  of  musquitoes, 
whose  bites  worried  me  on  shore.  When  we  reach  Calcutta, 
how  much  we  shall  miss  the  evening  breeze  from  the  sea,  which 
is  so  delightful  at  Madras  ! 

\7th. — Sunday, — crowds  of  natives  on  board,  Sunday  being 
the  great  day  of  business  with  them  :    they  brought  grapes, 


I 


380  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

which  were  delicious.     I  purchased  a  saw-fish,  a  sting-ray,  or 
bat-fish,  a  sea-porcupine,  a  halfmoon-fish,  and  some  others. 

"Mem  want  some  she-asses?"  "What?"  "She-asses, 
Mem  ;  many  got,  Mem  buy,  I  bring  she-asses."  They  turned  out 
to  be  sea-horses,  which  appear  to  be  abundant  at  Madras,  as 
well  as  all  sorts  of  monstrous  and  queer  fish.  A  juggler  on 
board  was  displaying  some  of  his  tricks.  He  finished  by  sitting 
down  on  the  deck,  when  he  passed  the  blade  of  a  sword  down 
his  throat,  as  far  as  the  hilt,  and  during  the  time  the  blade  was 
in  his  body,  he  let  off  fireworks,  which  were  on  the  four  corners 
of  two  pieces  of  wood  that  were  fixed  in  the  form  of  a  cross  on 
the  hilt  of  the  sword,  and  which  spun  round  upon  it.  It  was  a 
disgusting  sight,  and  an  unpleasant  one,  as  it  sometimes  causes 
the  death  of  the  juggler.  Some  of  the  passengers,  on  their 
return  to  the  "  Robarts,"  complained  much  of  the  heat,  and  of 
the  musquitoes  on  shore,  also  of  the  badness  of  the  inns,  which 
are  not  sufficiently  good  to  aspire  to  the  name  of  hotels.  The 
daunds  or  donies,  as  we  call  them,  are  numerous  at  Madras ; 
they  are  country  vessels,  coasters,  and  traders,  and  are  com- 
manded by  a  sarhang,  who  wears  the  undress  of  the  katmiram 
men ;  the  crews  are  native — the  vessels  are  short,  thick,  clumsy, 
and  marvellously  ugly. 

It  is  interesting  to  trace  the  descendants  of  Milton;  his 
grandson  was  parish-clerk  of  Fort  St.  George,  at  a  very  remote 
period.  Milton's  youngest  and  favourite  daughter  Deborah 
married  a  Mr.  Clarke;  she  is  said  to  have  been  a  woman  of 
cultivated  understanding,  and  not  unpl  easing  manners ;  known 
to  Richardson  and  patronized  by  Addison,  who  procured  a  per- 
manent provision  for  her  from  Queen  Caroline.  Her  only  son 
Caleb  Clarke  went  to  Madras  in  the  first  years  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  and  it  appears  from  an  examination  of  the  Parish 
Register  of  Fort  St.  George  that  he  was  parish-clerk  there  from 
1717  to  1719,  and  was  buried  there  on  the  26th  of  October  of 
the  latter  year. 

22nd. — Captain  Elder,  finding  the  wind  would  not  answer 
for  getting  out  beyond  the  shipping,  turned  the  head  of  the 
"  Robarts"  in  shore,  and  cut  through  a  crowd  of  donies,  country 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  JAGANATH.  381 

vessels,  in  great  style.  We  sailed  from  Madras  with  a  delight- 
ful breeze,  and  were  glad  to  resume  our  voyage.  The  captain 
brought  me  a  present  of  a  remarkably  large  globe-fish,  a  globular 
fish,  covered  with  very  sharp  prickles ;  it  has  the  beak  of  a 
parrot,  and  is,  I  understand,  also  called  the  parrot-fish. 

23rd. — The  ship  going  nearly  ten  knots  an  hour,  and  as 
steady  as  if  she  were  at  anchor :  how  I  enjoy  the  sea  breeze  ! 
what  health,  strength,  and  spirits  it  gives  me ! 

24th. — At  sunset  we  passed  close  to  Vizagapatam,  the  range 
of  distant  blue  mountains  was  very  beautiful,  contrasted  with 
the  red  volcanic-looking  hills  on  the  sea-shore. 

25th. — Anchored  off  Pooree :  the  view  of  the  station  from  the 
sea  is  remarkable :  on  the  left  the  temple  of  Jaganath  stands  a 
high  and  conspicuous  object.  The  houses  are  built  along  the 
shore  on  the  sands,  and  close  to  the  beach,  where  the  surf  rolls 
for  ever  with  great  violence.  It  is  a  beautiful  sight  to  watch  a 
MasuUa  boat  rising  and  sinking  as  she  comes  over  and  through 
the  surfs,  of  which  there  appear  to  be  three  regular  ranges,  and 
which  roll  with  greater  violence  than  the  surf  at  Madras.  Few 
vessels  ever  anchor  at  Pooree.  I  think  they  told  me  a  ship  had 
not  been  there  for  three  years.     The  "  Robarts"  anchored  there 

to  land  Colonel  and  Mrs.  G ;  they  went   on  shore   in  a 

Masulla  boat,  their  carriage  and  horses  were  landed  on  a  raft. 

THE   TEMPLE   OF  JAGANATH. 

26th. — Mr.  S came  off  to  the  "Robarts,"  and  we  re- 
turned with  him  in  the  Masulla  boat  to  his  house,  where  we 
breakfasted  and  enjoyed  fresh  strawberries.  The  sun  was 
extremely  powerful,  but  I  could  not  resist  going  in  a  palanquin 
to  see  the  temple  of  Jaganath.  It  is  built  of  stone,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  very  high  wall  of  the  same  material,  enclosing  a 
large  space  of  ground,  and  it  has  four  great  gateways.  In  front 
of  the  grand  entrance  is  a  column  of  one  entire  piece  of  stone, 
and  elegant  in  form.  Two  monsters  frown  on  either  side  the 
gateway.  A  wheel  ornaments  the  top  of  the  dome,  surmounted 
by  a  staff,  on  which  three  flags  are  flying ;  the  staff  was  bent 
during  a  hurricane.     I  got  out  of  the  palanquin,  and  went  into 


382  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

the  gateway  to  look  at  the  temple  ;  the  Brahmans  were  ex- 
tremely afraid  my  unholy  footstep  might  profane  the  place,  and 
would  scarcely  allow  me  even  to  look  into  the  interior,  otherwise 
I  would  have  sketched  it.  A  number  of  those  idle  rascals  were 
about,  and  they  appeared  annoyed  when  I  expressed  a  wish  to 
enter  the  enclosure,  which  is  around  the  temple. 

One  of  the  Hindoo  poets,  in  answer  to  the  question,  "  Why 
has  Vishntt  assumed  a  wooden  shape?  "  (alluding  to  the  image 
of  Jaganath)  says,  "  The  troubles  of  his  family  have  turned 
Vishnu  into  wood  :  in  the  first  place  he  has  two  wives,  one  of 
whom  (the  goddess  of  Learning)  is  constantly  talking,  and  the 
other  (the  goddess  of  Prosperity)  never  remains  in  one  place : 
to  increase  his  troubles,  he  sits  on  a  snake ;  his  dwelling  is  in 
the  water,  and  he  rides  on  a  bird.  All  the  Hindoos  acknow- 
ledge it  is  a  great  misfortune  for  a  man  to  have  two  wives  ; 
especially  if  both  live  in  one  house." 

Krishnu  is  a  descent  of  Vishnu,  and  the  bones  of  Krishnu 
are  Jugiinat'hii. 

I  made  the  circuit  of  the  wall,  and  then  visited  the  swing  of 
the  idol.  Once  a  year  Jaganath  is  brought  forth,  and  put  into 
this  swing.  The  arch  is  of  black  marble,  and  has  the  appear- 
ance of  richly-carved  bronze  :  the  ropes  are  supported  by  iron 
rings  fixed  into  the  arch.  It  stands  on  a  platform,  to  which 
you  ascend  by  a  flight  of  steps,  which  are  crowned  by  two 
monsters,  couchant.  From  the  temple  I  returned  to  tiffin,  and 
on  my  way  1  thought  of  the  description  of  the  plains  covered 
with  human  sculls  ;  therefore,  I  kept  a  sharp  look  out  for  them, 
but  not  one  could  I  see.  The  god  was  shut  up  in  his  temple  ; 
we  were  not  fortunate  enough  to  land  there  during  the  celebra- 
tion of  the  rites,  or  when  he  is  brought  forth  once  a  year  at  the 
festival  called  Rat'-ha-jattra,  or  the  festival  of  the  Chariot.  The 
height  of  the  ruth  is  forty-two  feet,  supported  on  sixteen  wheels ; 
the  four  horses  in  front  of  it  are  of  wood  :  ropes  are  attached  to 
the  bars  below,  and  the  car,  with  the  monstrous  idol  within  it, 
is  drawn  by  20,000  frantic  devotees.  On  this  occasion  Krishnu 
is  worshipped  as  Jaganath'ha,  or  Lord  of  the  universe  :  the  Lord 
of  the  World,  from  jugiit,  the  world,  and  nat'hu,  lord. 


JAGANATH.  383 

"  In  some  period  of  Hindu  history  he  was  accidentally  killed 
by  a  hunter,  who  left  the  body  to  rot  under  the  tree  where  it 
fell.  Some  pious  person,  however,  collected  the  bones  of 
Krishnii,  and  placed  them  in  a  box,  where  they  remained :  a 
king,  who  was  performing  religious  austerities,  to  obtain  some 
favour  of  Vishnu,  was  directed  by  the  latter  to  form  the  image 
of  Jugiinnathu,  and  put  into  its  belly  these  bones  of  Krishnu, 
by  which  means  he  should  obtain  the  fruit  of  his  religious 
austerities.  The  king  inquired  who  should  make  this  image ; 
and  was  commanded  to  pray  to  Vishnii-kurmii  the  architect  of 
the  gods.  He  did  so,  and  obtained  his  request ;  but  the  archi- 
tect at  the  same  time  declared,  that  if  any  one  disturbed  him 
while  preparing  the  image,  he  would  leave  it  in  an  unfinished 
state.  He  then  began,  and  in  one  night  built  a  temple  upon 
the  blue  mountain  in  Orissa,  and  proceeded  to  prepare  the 
image  in  the  temple ;  but  the  impatient  king,  after  waiting 
fifteen  days,  went  to  the  spot ;  on  which  the  architect  of  the 
gods  desisted  from  his  work,  and  left  the  god  without  feet  or 
hands.  The  king  was  very  much  disconcerted  ;  but  on  praying 
to  Brumha,  he  promised  to  make  the  image  famous  in  its  pre- 
sent shape.  The  king  now  invited  all  the  gods  to  be  present  at 
the  setting  up  of  this  image :  Brumha  himself  acted  as  high 
priest,  and  gave  eyes  and  a  soul  to  the  god,  which  completely 
estabUshed  the  fame  of  Jiigunnathii.  This  image  is  said  to  lie 
in  a  pool  near  the  present  temple  of  Jiigunnathii  in  Orissa." 
After  many  ceremonies  have  been  performed  within  the  temple, 
the  god  is  drawn  forth  in  his  car ;  at  the  expiration  of  eight  days 
he  is  conveyed  back  to  the  place  from  which  he  came.  The 
festival  is  intended  to  celebrate  the  diversions  of  Krishnii  and 
the  Gopis,  with  whom  he  used  to  ride  out  in  his  chariot.  The 
image  of  Bvilu-Ramii  the  brother  of  Jugunnat'hii  almost  always 
accompanies  him.  Some  place  the  image  of  Revutee  by  the 
side  of  her  husband,  Biilii-Ramii ;  she  was  a  singular  personage, 
that  maiden  lady,  for  at  the  time  of  her  marriage  she  was 
3,888,000  years  old !  Bulii-Ramu  saw  her  for  the  first  time 
when  ploughing ;  notwithstanding  her  immense  stature  (which 
reached   as   high   as   a   sound   ascends   in  clapping  the  hands 


384  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILORIM. 

seven  times),  Baiu-Ramu  married  her,  and  to  bring  down 
her  monstrous  height,  he  fastened  a  ploughshare  to  her 
shoulders. 

JAGANATH. 

At  this  festival  all  castes  eat  together :  the  pilgrims  to  this 
shrine  endure  excessive  hardships  from  fatigue,  want  of  food, 
and  exposure  to  the  weather ;  sometimes  a  devotee  will  throw 
himself  under  the  wheels  of  the  car,  and  be  crushed  to  death, 
believing,  if  he  sacrificed  his  life  through  his  faith  in  Jugiinat'hu, 
the  god  would  certainly  save  him.  Every  third  year  they  make 
a  new  image,  when  a  Brahman  removes  the  original  bones  of 
Krishnu  from  the  inside  of  the  old  image  to  that  of  the  new 
one ;  on  this  occasion  he  covers  his  eyes,  lest  he  should  be 
struck  dead  for  looking  on  such  sacred  relics.  The  Rajah  of 
Burdwan  expended  twelve  lakh  of  rupees  in  a  journey  to 
Jugunat'hu,  including  two  lakh  paid  as  a  bribe  to  the  Brahmans 
to  permit  him  to  see  these  bones  ;  but  he  died  six  months  after- 
wards for  his  temerity.  A  number  of  women  belong  to  the 
temple,  whose  employment  is  to  dance  and  sing  before  the  god. 
Jugunat'hu,  his  brother,  Bulii-Ramu,  and  their  sister,  Soobhudra, 
are  placed  together  in  the  car. 

In  the  plate  entitled  Jaganiith  is  a  brass  idol,  (Fig.  5,)  which 
was  given  me  at  Pooree ;  it  may  probably  represent  the  three 
personages  above  mentioned ;  but  why  the  brother  and  sister 
should  have  stumps  instead  of  arms,  and  why  they  should  have 
no  legs,  I  cannot  imagine.  Is  Jaganath  in  himself  a  trinity,  as 
this  idol  would  lead  one  to  suppose  ? 

Fig.  1 ,  in  the  same  plate,  is  a  fac-simile  of  a  little  wooden  model 
of  the  god ;  it  has  no  legs,  and  only  stumps  as  arms  ;  the  head  is 
very  large,  as  are  also  the  great  circular  eyes.  At  the  festivals 
the  Brahmans  adorn  Jaganath  with  silver  or  golden  hands  ;  and 
an  offering  of  a  pair  of  golden  hands  to  the  image  is  considered 
an  act  of  great  devotion.  This  model  was  presented  to  me  at 
Pooree,  as  was  also  the  seal  (Fig.  2),  with  which  the  priests 
stamp  the  worshipper  on  the  breast  and  on  the  arms ;  it  is 
covered  with  various  holy  emblems  :  the  tika  of  hhabut  or  ashes 


f"' 


m- 


lA2**-S  •■*■*•.• 


InP'''' 


/■/ifffl 


On  Stone  tj  Major  pArlhy 


JUGUNNATHU, 


MAGNIFICENT    SURFS A    DANGEROUS    SHORE.  385 

is  also  placed  on  the  forehead  of  the  pilgrim  by  the  ministering 
Brahman.  The  Uchchat  tilak  is  the  ceremony  of  putting  a  few 
grains  of  boiled  rice  on  the  forehead  of  an  image  when  addressed, 
or  of  a  Brahman  when  invited  to  an  entertainment. 

The  asan,  the  sacred  mat,  used  by  the  Hindus  in  worship,  is 
made  of  the  kashii  grass  (saccharum  spontaneum),  and  sold  at 
different  prices,  from  a  penny  to  one  rupee  each. 

I  saw  a  small  model  of  the  ruth,  or  car,  which  was  ornamented 
with  flags  and  red  linen.  At  Allahabad  I  wished  to  inspect 
one  which  was  passing  along  the  road,  but  was  deterred  from 
so  doing,  being  told  it  was  covered  with  indelicate  paintings. 

During  the  mela,  or  great  fair,  at  the  sacred  junction  of  the 
rivers  at  Allahabad,  I  have  often  seen  worship  performed  before 
an  image  of  Jaganath,  as  described  Vol.  I.  page  262. 

A  carved  stone  was  presented  to  me,  brought  from  the  ruins 
of  a  city  of  great  extent,  about  forty  miles  from  Pooree ;  its 
name  has  escaped  my  memory,  but  it  appeared  from  the  account 
I  received  to  be  full  of  curiosities ;  few  persons,  however,  had 
ventured  to  visit  the  ruined  city,  deterred  by  the  probability  of 
taking  a  fever,  in  consequence  of  the  malaria  produced  by  the 
thick  jangal  by  which  it  is  surrounded.  The  stone  is  white,  and 
upon  it  is  carved  the  figure  of  some  remarkable  personage,  above 
which  is  an  emblem  of  Mahadeo.  A  very  fine  tiger's  skin  was 
also  added  to  my  collection.  I  carried  off  my  prizes  with  great 
delight,  and  they  now  adorn  my  museum. 

In  the  evening  our  party  returned  on  board  in  a  MasuUa  boat 
through  a  very  fine  surf  that  flung  the  boat  right  on  end,  and 
can-ied  her  back  many  times  towards  the  beach  ere  we  could 
make  our  way  through  it ;  the  foam  dashed  over  the  boat  as 
every  surf  rolled  upon  her  ;  it  was  a  beautiful  sight, — I  enjoyed 
extremely  the  passing  through  those  magnificent  surfs.  The 
countenance  of  the  captain  of  the  "  Robarts,"  who  was  with  us, 
was  grave  and  anxious ;  he  eyed  the  horizon  intently,  and 
appeared  not  to  like  the  look  of  the  sky.  He  weighed  anchor 
instantly  on  reaching  the  ship,  and  said  to  me  afterwards,  "  I 
did  not  like  the  appearance  of  the  weather  as  we  came  on  board, 
and  was  thinking  whether  I  should  lay  my  bones  there."     With 

VOL.  II.  c  c 


386  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

a  wind  on  shore  a  ship  off   Pooree  must  be  in  an  awkward 
position. 

27th. — At  8  p.  M.  arrived  off  the  floating  light,  a  brig,  anchored 
at  the  Sandheads ;  it  was  a  beautiful  night, — our  signal-lights 
burnt  brightly,  and  we  were  guided  from  time  to  time  as  we 
approached  the  vessel  by  the  half-hour  hghts  burnt  on  board 
her;  the  last  light  we  had  seen  had  been  pretty  distant,  and 
steering  by  it,  we  suddenly  perceived  the  brig  on  our  quarter, 
about  one  hundred  yards  off, — her  sails,  masts,  cordage,  and 
hull  glancing  out  in  the  darkness,  and  from  the  deep  shadow, 
by  the  lurid  glare  of  her  blue  light ;  the  sight  was  beautifully 
spectral.  A  pilot  came  immediately  on  board ;  with  a  fine 
breeze  and  a  press  of  sail  we  proceeded  towards  Saugor, 
anchored,  and  reported  our  arrival  at  the  Sandheads. 

29ith. — A  fine  breeze  bore  us  on  until  we  anchored  off  the 
Bishop's  Palace,  at  which  time  a  north-wester  came  on,  accom- 
panied by  thunder,  lightning,  and  heavy  rain. 

29<A.— Arrived  off  Baboo  Ghat,  Calcutta,  after  a  most  agree- 
able voyage  from  the  Cape,  which,  I  beUeve,  was  enjoyed  by 
every  one  on  board. 

The  "  Robarts  "  was  a  fine  vessel,  one  of  the  old  teak  India- 
men.  With  regret  we  saw  the  following  extract  in  a  newspaper 
in  1847:— 

Wilful  burning  of  an  Indiaman. 
"  Considerable  surprise  has  within  the  last  day  or  two  existed 
in  the  underwriters'  room  at  Lloyd's,  in  consequence  of  the 
receipt  of  intelligence  of  the  loss  of  another  East  India  trader 
by  fire,  under  circumstances  that  have  justified  the  officers 
under  whose  command  she  was  placed  in  apprehending  the 
greater  part  of  the  crew  on  a  charge  of  having  maliciously 
occasioned  the  destruction  of  the  ship.  She  was  the  '  Robarts,' 
of  London,  part  the  property  of  Messrs.  Havisides  and  Co.,  of 
Cornhill,  and  was  one  of  the  old-fashioned  teak-built  Indiamen, 
of  nearly  1000  tons'  burden.  She  was  deeply  laden  with  cotton 
and  other  merchandize,  which  had  been  shipped  at  Calcutta,  as 
well  as  a  number  of  passengers,  and  was  on  the  point  of  sailing 


b 


WILFUL    BURNING    OF    AN    INDIAMAN.  387 

when  the  calamity  happened.  The  immense  losses  by  fire  that 
merchants  and  shipowners  have  within  the  last  two  years  sus- 
tained in  that  port — for  we  believe  no  fewer  than  five  large  ships 
have  been  totally  destroyed  during  that  time — have  led  to  every 
precaution  on  their  part.  The  cargo  of  the  '  Robarts'  under- 
went a  strict  scrutiny  before  it  was  taken  on  board,  and  the 
ship's  hold  was  carefully  overhauled,  besides  which  extra 
lookers-on  were  appointed  to  watch  the  conduct  of  the  crew. 
With  the  exception  of  the  officers,  the  crew  were  composed  of 
Lascars,  nearly  seventy  in  number ;  and  here  it  is  proper  to 
mention,  that  in  all  instances  where  they  are  engaged  to  navi- 
gate a  vessel,  whether  to  England  or  elsewhere,  they  are  entitled 
by  the  laws  of  that  country  to  six  months'  pay  in  advance. 
This  has  led  to  the  disasters  spoken  of;  the  Lascars  firing 
the  ships  to  defraud  the  owners  of  their  services,  all  the 
ships  being  destroyed  a  night  or  so  before  the  day  of  their 
appointed  sailing.  The  '  Robarts'  dropped  down  the  river  on 
the  28th  of  June,  and  the  passengers  having  come  on  board  she 
sailed  on  the  following  day,  the  29th,  for  China.  The  succeed- 
ing night  saw  the  destruction  of  the  vessel  in  the  river.  The 
passengers  and  most  of  the  officers  were  buried  in  slumber 
when  they  were  startled  by  the  cries  of  '  fire,'  and  on  their 
reaching  the  deck  were  not  a  Httle  alarmed  at  finding  such 
to  be  the  case,  for  smoke  was  rolling  up  in  dense  volumes 
from  the  fore  part  of  the  vessel.  The  captain  and  chief  officer 
went  down  to  ascertain  its  locality,  and  finding  the  bulk  of  the 
fire  apparently  behind  the  starboard-chain  box,  or  locker,  water 
in  copious  quantities  was  immediately  thrown  down,  the  pumps 
being  also  got  to  work ;  notwithstanding,  however,  no  effect 
was  produced,  but  the  smoke  and  heat  increased,  and  the 
stench  clearly  showed  the  fire  had  extended  to  the  cotton  in 
the  hold.  The  exertions  were  continued,  but  at  four  o'clock, 
four  hours  after  the  alarm  was  raised,  Captain  Elder  seeing 
there  was  not  the  least  chance  of  saving  the  ship,  ordered  the 
boats  to  be  lowered,  and  having  seen  all  hands  and  the  pas- 
sengers safe  in  them  absindoned  her  to  her  fate.  Fortunately 
for  them   another  vessel,  named    the    '  Fatima,'   was    coming 

cc2 


388  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

down  the  channel,  and  took  them  on  board  to  Kedgeree,  where 
they  were  landed.  It  is  unnecessary  to  observe  that  in  a  few 
hours  the  'Robarts'  was  totally  destroyed.  The  men  who 
were  charged  with  setting  fire  to  the  ship  have  undergone  an 
examination,  and  are  remanded.  The  result  of  the  second 
day's  examination  has  not  yet  been  received.  The  loss  of  the 
vessel  and  cargo  is  said  to  exceed  £30,000.  It  is  covered  by 
insurances." — Observer. 


CHAPTER    LXIV. 


SKETCHES  ON  THE  RIVER  FROM  CALCUTTA  TO  COLGONG. 

Calcutta — Mango  Fish — Lord  Ellenborough  recalled — Fall  of  Fish — The 
Hoogly — The  Bore — Quitted  Calcutta — Ishapur— Chagdah — Happiness  of 
Dying  in  Sight  of  the  Ganges — Quitted  the  Tropics— Cutwa — Plassey — 
Berhampiir — Morus  Indica — Jungipiir — Quitted  the  Bhagirathi — Night 
Blindness — Sikri-gall — Herd  of  Buffaloes — Patturgatta  Hill — Rocks  of 
Colgong — An  Ajgar — A  Wild  and  Singular  Scene. 

1844,  April  \st. — We  took  a  house  in  Chowringhee,  and  found 
soon  after  that  the  cholera  and  small-pox  were  prevalent  in 
Calcutta :  how  ill  the  dampness  and  the  heat  of  this  Bengal 
climate  render  me  ! — they  destroy  all  energy.  Calcutta  is  famous 
for  its  tapsi  machhi  (mango  fish),  in  this  month  they  are  in 
perfection.  "  Mangoes  and  fish  meet  of  necessity ' ;"  they  come 
in  at  the  same  season,  and  the  unripe  mango  is  also  used  in 
cooking  fish :  the  dandls  bring  them  in  small  baskets  fresh  from 
the  boats  to  the  Course  of  an  evening,  and  sell  them,  twenty  for 
a  rupee,  at  the  time  a  khansaman  charges  his  master  one  rupee 
for  five  of  them.  Parties  are  made,  to  Fulta  and  Budge-Budge, 
down  the  river,  to  eat  mango  fish, — after  the  fashion  of  white- 
bait parties  in  town  ;  they  are  excellent — smoked  in  the  same . 
manner  as  anwari  fish — for  breakfast. 

28th. — A  fine  fall  of  rain, — perhaps  it  will  clear  the  air,  and 
drive  off  the  cholera,  which  is  raging  strongly  at  present. 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  134. 


390  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

May  24th. — Mango  fish  fifty  per  rupee.  The  weather  very 
hot,  the  nights  most  oppressive,  from  the  heavy  mist  and  great 
heat.  We  left  our  horses  at  the  Cape,  which  we  regretted  on 
our  arrival  in  Calcutta  ;  we  have  been  looking  out  for  a  pair  of 
carriage  horses  for  some  time.  This  is  the  cheapest  season  of 
the  year  in  which  to  make  the  purchase,  but  they  are  very  dear ; 
those  for  sale  at  eight  hundred  rupees  are  vile,  those  at  one 
thousand  indifferent, — you  cannot  get  a  good  pair  under 
fourteen  or  sixteen  hundred  rupees ;  it  would  not  answer  to 
bring  riding  horses  from  the  Cape  for  sale,  but  carriage  horses 
would  answer  well,  they  are  in  such  great  demand  in  Calcutta. 

29th. — Rain  having  fallen  on  the  Queen's  birthday,  the  display 
of  fireworks  was  postponed  until  to-day ;  it  was  a  failure,  with 
the  exception  of  one  bouquet,  which  was  good.  They  would 
not  bear  a  comparison  with  the  jeux  d'artijices  that  I  witnessed 
in  Paris  on  the  day  of  the  King's  fSte  ;  I  never  saw  any  colours 
that  equalled  those  in  brilliancy  and  variety.  The  last  firework, 
a  bouquet  of  rockets  of  divers  colours,  was  superb ;  and  some- 
times a  composition  was  burnt,  that  threw  a  red  glare  over  the 
landscape ;  then  came  a  glare  of  bluelights,  casting  a  spectral 
appearance  on  the  houses,  the  river,  and  the  sky,  after  which 
another  tint  was  thrown  forth,  and  the  effect  was  excellent. 

June  \^th. — Lord  EUenborough  recalled, — deposed  by  the 
Court  of  Directors. 

July  \8th. — Visited  the  Uvery  stables  to  see  some  fresh  Arabs, 
among  which  some  very  good  ones  were  pointed  out  to  me. 
There  was  not  a  horse  that  I  would  have  selected  for  my  own 
riding  whose  price  was  less  than  from  twelve  to  sixteen  hundred 
rupees  ;  and  for  those  likely  to  turn  out  good  racers  they  asked 
two  and  three  thousand. 

3\st. — Lord  EUenborough  quitted  Calcutta,  and  returned  to 
England. 

Aug.  22nd. — A  very  heavy  gale,  and  a  deep  fall  of  rain ;  the 
next  day  the  natives  were  catching  fish  all  over  the  maidan  in 
front  of  the  Government  House  ;  they  say  the  fish  fell  with  the 
rain,  which  is  now  a  foot  deep  on  the  ground. 

Oct.  \st. — It  being  our  intention  to  proceed  by  the  river  to 


THE  HOOGLY THE  BORE.  391 

Allahabad,  and  the  weather  becoming  daily  cooler,  we  hired  a 
pinnace  budgerow  for  ourselves,  a  large  oldk  for  the  baggage, 
and  a  cook-boat,  sent  them  to  Prinsep's  Ghat,  and  prepared  for 
the  voyage. 

That  branch  of  the  Ganges  that  quits  the  main  stream  at 
Gopalgunj,  flowing  by  Sooty  to  Moorshedabad,  is  called  the 
Bhagirathi  until  it  reaches  Nuddea,  at  which  place  it  is  joined 
by  the  Jellinghy,  and  they  flow  on,  passing  Calcutta,  to  the 
island  of  Sagor,  under  the  name  of  the  Hoogly.  Only  that 
part  of  the  Ganges  which  lies  in  a  line  from  Gangoutrl  to  Sagor 
island  is  considered  holy  by  the  Hindus,  and  named  the  Ganga 
or  Bhagirathi.  The  Hoogly  river,  therefore,  of  Europeans,  is 
considered  as  the  true  Ganges. 

The  Bore  commences  at  Hoogly  Point,  Sagor,  where  the 
river  first  contracts  itself,  and  is  perceptible  above  the  town  of 
Hoogly  :  so  quick  is  its  motion,  that  it  scarcely  employs  four 
hours  in  running  up  from  the  one  to  the  other,  although  the 
distance  is  nearly  seventy  miles.  It  does  not  run  on  the 
Calcutta  side,  but  along  the  opposite  bank ;  whence  it  crosses  at 
Chitpur,  about  four  miles  above  Fort  William,  and  proceeds 
with  great  violence.  On  its  approach  boats  nmst  immediately 
quit  the  shore,  and  go  for  safety  into  the  middle  of  the  river  ; 
at  Calcutta  it  sometimes  occasions  an  instantaneous  rise  of  five 
feet.     The  tide  is  perceptible  as  far  as  Nuddea. 

lOth. — Quitted  Calcutta  with  a  foul  wind  and  heavy  rain, — 
damp,  gloomy,  and  rheumatic  weather. 

\lth. — Started  with  a  fair  wind,  bought  two  milch  goats  for 
thirteen  rupees  eight  anas, — a  great  prize  on  the  river.  Moored 
the  vessels  at  Ishapur,  in  order  to  visit  a  friend  who  has  charge 
of  the  powder-works  at  that  place ;  his  house,  which  is  large 
and  excellent,  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river  ;  every  thing 
is  so  cool  and  fresh  around  it ;  it  is  delightful  to  be  in  the 
country  once  more. 

I4th. — The  fast  of  the  Muhan-am  ended  to-day  ;  the  followers 
of  the  prophet  amongst  our  servants,  wishing  to  have  a  great 
feast,  petitioned  to  be  allowed  to  stay  till  noon,  to  worship  and  to 
stuflf  pillao.     Quitted  Hoogly  with  the  tide  at  half-past  one  p.m. 


392  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

15<A.— Passed  the  village  of  Chagdah,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Matabangah,  forty-six  miles  from  Calcutta ;  a  village  of  corpses, 
— the  inhabitants  of  which,  having  been  brought  by  their 
relatives  to  the  river's  side,  to  die  before  their  time,  prefer  a 
debased  existence  to  a  righteous  end,  agreeing  therein  with  the 
highest  authorities.  Pope's  Homer  makes  Achilles  in  the 
Elysian  fields  say, 

"  Rather  I'd  choose  laboriously  to  bear 
A  weight  of  woes,  and  breathe  the  vital  air, 
A  slave  to  some  poor  hind  that  toils  for  bread, 
Than  reign  the  scepter'd  monarch  of  the  dead." 

Solomon  deems  it  better  to  be  a  live  dog  than  a  dead  lion ;  and 
Job,  called  by  Byron  "  the  Respectable,"  says,  "  Why  should 
a  living  man  complain  ?"  to  which  Byron  adds,  "  For  no  reason 
that  I  can  see,  except  that  a  dead  man  cannot."  In  the  face 
of  these  grave  authorities,  as  far  as  I  am  concerned,  I  cannot 
help  being  of  a  different  opinion :  the  proverb  agrees  with  my 
view  of  the  subject, — "  It  is  better  to  die  with  honour  than  live 
with  infamy'."  These  unfortunate  people,  outcasts  from  their 
homes  and  families,  on  account  of  their  unexpected  recovery, 
after  having  been  exposed  by  their  relatives  to  die  on  the  banks 
of  the  river,  have  taken  refuge  in  this  village,  and  are  its  sole 
inhabitants. 

"  The  Hindus  are  extremely  anxious  to  die  in  sight  of  the 
Ganges,  that  their  sins  may  be  washed  away  in  their  last 
moments.  A  person  in  his  last  agonies  is  frequently  dragged  from 
his  bed  and  friends,  and  carried,  in  the  coldest  or  in  the  hottest 
weather,  from  whatever  distance,  to  the  river-side,  where  he 
lies,  if  a  poor  man,  without  a  covering  day  and  night,  until  he 
expires.  With  the  pains  of  death  upon  him,  he  is  placed  up  to 
the  middle  in  water,  and  drenched  with  it ;  leaves  of  the  toolsee 
plant  are  also  put  into  his  mouth,  and  his  relations  call  upon 
•  him  to  repeat,  and  repeat  for  him,  the  names  of  Ramii,  Hliree, 
Narayiinu,   Brumha,  Giinga,    &c.     In   some   cases   the  family 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  135. 


HAPPINESS    OF    DYING    IN    SIGHT    OF    THE    GANGES.  393 

priest  repeats  some  incantations,  and  makes  an  offering  to 
Voitiirunee,  the  river  over  which  the  soul,  they  say,  is  ferried  after 
leaving  the  body.  The  relations  of  the  dying  man  spread  the 
sediment  of  the  river  on  his  forehead  or  breast,  and  afterwards, 
with  the  finger,  write  on  this  sediment  the  name  of  some  deity. 
If  a  person  should  die  in  his  house,  and  not  by  the  river-side, 
it  is  considered  as  a  great  misfortune,  as  he  thereby  loses  the 
help  of  the  goddess  in  his  dying  moments.  If  a  person  choose 
to  die  at  home,  his  memory  becomes  infamous." 

This  part  of  the  river  is  flat  and  uninteresting ;  anchored  a 
little  below  Culna,  which  is  sixty-six  miles  by  water,  fifl;y-two 
by  land,  from  Calcutta.  At  night  the  insects,  attracted  by  the 
brilliant  light  of  the  Silvant  lamps,  came  into  the  cabin  in  swarms 
— like  the  plagues  of  Egypt  they  fall  into  the  wine-cups  and  fill 
the  plates ;  they  are  over  my  hands,  and  over  the  paper  on 
which  1  am  writing,  and  are  a  complete  pest. 

I6th. — Very  hot  during  the  middle  of  the  day;  thermometer 
86'.  Passed  the  Dhobah  sugar-works,  seventy-two  miles  by 
water  from  Czdcutta ;  left  the  Jellingee  river  on  the  right,  and 
anchored  at  Nuddea,  eighty-three  by  water,  and  sixty-four  by 
land.  The  steamers  generally  arrive  at  the  Dhobah  sugar- 
works  in  one  day,  but  still  we  think  we  have  come  on  quickly  in 
the  Budgerow !  We  did  not  land  to  visit  the  long  range  of 
temples  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  To  this  place  the  Ccdcutta 
Sircars  come,  to  eat  the  air. 

At  MeertuUa,  half-way  between  Nuddea  and  Dumdumma,  we 
crossed  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  which  made  us  fancy  ourselves  in 
a  cooler  climate,  in  spite  of  the  extreme  heat.  At  noon-day  it 
is  almost  intolerable,  and  very  oppressive,  but  the  early  mornings 
are  cool,  and  the  nights  also  ;  moored  off  Dumdumma. 

\8th. — Lugaoed  on  a  dry  sandbank  beyond  Dewangunge, 
one  hundred  and  eighteen  miles  from  Calcutta ;  it  has  a  large 
mart,  and  a  fine  indigo  factory. 

I9th. — Arrived  early  in  the  day  off"  Cutwa,  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Bhagirathi,  five  miles  from  Dewangunge ; 
anchored  to  procure  fowls,  fish,  and  vegetables ;  it  has  a  coal 
depot  for  steamers.     Cutwa  is  on  the  Adgar-nala  :  found  nothing 


394  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

in  the  baziir  but  eggs  and  plantains,  fowls  and  byguns  (solanuni 
melongena).  Purchased  twelve  sticks  of  shola,  or  sola,  as  it  is 
commonly  called,  for  one  paisa ;  the  dandls  use  it  as  a  tinder- 
box,  and  strike  fire  into  the  end  of  a  sola  stick  with  a  flint  and 
steel.  A  cooler  day  ;  the  river  very  uninteresting  ;  moored  on  a 
nameless  sandbank. 

20^^. — Passed  the  Field  of  Plassey,  sixteen  miles  above 
Cutwa,  on  the  left  bank ;  memorable  for  the  defeat  of  Suraja 
Dowla,  by  the  British  forces  under  Colonel  Clive,  June  23rd, 
1757.  This  battle  decided  the  fate  of  Bengal,  and  ultimately 
of  India.  Anchored  on  a  fine  cool  sandbank  near  the  Company's 
fil-khdna  (elephant  establishment) ,  on  the  left  bank,  eight  miles 
above  Plassey. 

2lst. — Arrived  at  RangamattI,  a  village  on  the  right  bank, 
with  steep  red  banks ;  the  Company's  silk  manufactories  were 
here  formerly.  The  place  is  celebrated  for  sajjl-matti,  or  fullers 
earth  :  it  is  six  miles  from  Berhampiir,  one  hundred  and  sixty 
from  Calcutta,  and  seventy-seven  from  Jellingee.  Lugaoed  at 
the  civil  station  of  Berhampiir,  which  looks  quite  deserted ; 
nothing  is  going  forward ;  no  crowds  of  natives  on  the  bank 
with  various  articles  for  sale,  and  no  picturesque  boats  on  the 
river. 

22nd. — Sent  letters  to  the  Diik — laid  in  a  store  of  fowls, 
bread,  butter,  charcoal,  limes,  &c.,  to  help  us  on  to  Raj- 
mahal,  as  provisions  are  only  to  be  procured  at  the  large 
stations. 

23rd. — Passed  the  palace  of  the  Nawab  of  Moorshedabad  : 
admired  the  fanciful  boats  he  uses  on  state  occasions,  and  the 
snake  boats;  the  latter  fly  with  great  swiftness  when  rowed 
by  twenty  men,  from  their  amazing  length  and  extreme  nar- 
rowness. The  state  boats  are  highly  gilt,  and  ornamented 
very  tastefully  with  colours  and  gold ;  they  are  light  and  airy 
in  the  extreme.  The  river  is  very  shallow ;  we  have  great  diffi- 
culty in  finding  the  deep  parts ;  in  consequence,  our  progress  is 
slow,  but  the  scenery  is  very  beautiful.  Moored  off"  a  small 
bastl  (village)  on  the  right  bank. 

24th. — A  little  fleet  of  small  boats  filled  with  firewood  has 


QUITTED    THE    BHAGIRATHI.  395 

passed  us ;  never  was  there  any  thing  so  neatly  and  regularly 
stowed  away  as  the  wood.  The  weather  is  becoming  sensibly 
cooler  and  more  pleasant :  moored  below  Jungipur  on  a  field 
covered  with  the  tut,  (morus  Indica,  Indian  mulberry,)  a  shrub 
which  is  planted  and  cultivated  in  great  quantities  as  food  for 
the  silkworms  which  are  reared  in  the  neighbouring  villages. 
My  goats  luxuriated  for  some  hours  by  moonlight  in  the  fields 
of  tut,  enjoying  the  fresh  shrubs  ;  they  have  been  cut  down,  and 
the  young  sprouts  are  now  only  about  a  foot  high. 

25th. — Passed  Jungipur ;  paid  the  toll  which  is  levied  for 
keeping  open  the  entrance  of  the  Bhagirathi ;  anchored  at 
KamalpOr,  a  straggling  picturesque  village :  cows  are  here  in 
the  greatest  abundance — the  village  swarms  with  them ;  they 
swim  the  cows  over  the  river  in  herds  to  graze  on  the  oppo- 
site bank,  and  swim  them  back  again  in  the  evening  ;  a  couple 
of  men  usually  accompany  the  herd,  crossing  the  river  by  hold- 
ing on  to  the  tail  of  a  cow  :  the  animals  take  to  the  water  as  a 
thing  of  course ;  on  their  arrival  at  the  cottages,  they  are  tied 
up  with  food  before  them,  and  a  smouldering  fire  is  kept  up 
near  them  all  night :  the  cows  enveloped  in  the  smoke  are  free 
from  the  worrying  of  the  insects.  Mr.  Laruletta  has  a  large 
silk  manufactory  at  JungipQr ;  he  lives  in  the  Residency,  which 
he  purchased  from  the  Government ;  it  is  forty-two  miles  above 
Berhampur.  The  villages  of  Gurka  and  Kidderpur  are  on  the 
opposite  bank. 

26th. — Quitted  the  Bhagirathi  and  entered  on  the  Ganges  : 
stopped  at  a  place  famous  for  bamboos,  consisting  of  a  few  huts 
built  of  mats  on  the  river-side,  where  bamboos  and  ardent 
spirits  are  sold.  My  manjhi  bought  nine  very  large  newly-cut 
bamboos  for  one  rupee  five  anas,  and  complained  of  their 
being  very  dear!  Crossed  the  river,  and  anchored  above  the 
village  of  Konsert,  at  the  Luckipur  indigo  factory,  a  most 
melancholy  looking  place,  the  bungalow  in  ruins — the  owner 
resides  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  There  is  a  very  fine 
banyan  tree  on  the  Ghiit,  at  Konsert,  and  two  very  fine  silk 
cotton  trees  (bombax  heptaphyllum)  in  front  of  the  factory.  The 
kajur  (phoenix  dactylifera,  common  date  palm,)  flourishes  here. 


396  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

— it  is  remarkable  for  its  lofty  trunk,  rugged  on  account  of  the 
persistent  vestiges  of  the  decayed  leaves. 

27th. — Passed  Dulalpur  and  saw  the  factory  of  Chandnl  Koti 
in  the  distance,  where  I  met  with  so  much  hospitality  on  my 
expedition  to  the  ruins  of  Gaur.  Heard  of  Mr.  Sinclair's  death, 
which  took  place  about  a  year  ago,  most  Ukely  from  the  jungle 
fever.  After  a  pleasant  sail  with  a  fair  wind,  had  the  first  sight 
of  the  Hills ;  anchored  on  a  cool,  clear,  and  fresh  sjmdbank  in 
the  middle  of  the  Ganges — the  moon  high,  the  night  quiet  and 
agreeable.  I  took  a  camera  lucida  on  deck,  and  was  much 
amused  with  the  delight  of  the  crew  when  they  looked  into  it. 
They  called  it  a  Kompds,  and  were  very  anxious  to  have  their 
own  likenesses  taken. 

28th. — Thermometer  82°  in  the  cabin  at  noon ;  not  a  breath 
of  air,  the  river  very  broad  and  shallow ;  it  is  hardly  possible  to 
find  water  enough  to  float  the  budgerow.  We  are  just  passing 
a  steamer  with  a  cargo  flat  in  tow;  she  has  grounded,  and 
there  she  is  in  the  midst  of  the  river  burning  with  heat,  whilst 
the  little  pilot  boats  are  trying  to  find  some  channel  deep 
enough  for  her.  Like  the  hare  and  the  tortoise  in  the  fable, 
we  shall  reach  the  goal  first.  Imagine  the  heat  of  the  iron 
steamer,  the  bright  river  giving  back  the  sun's  rays,  and  looking 
like  unrufiled  glass  around  her  ;  the  inside  of  the  vessel  must 
resemble  a  well-heated  iron  oven.  Lugaoed  ofi"  Husseinpur. 
The  wooliik  (baggage-boat)  came  up  late ;  for  the  second  time 
she  has  run  foul  of  the  budgerow,  and  has  done  her  some 
damage.  The  manjhi  of  the  woolak  cannot  see  after  sunset, 
having  what  the  natives  call  rat  andhd,  or  night  blindness :  he 
can  see  well  enough  during  the  day  time ; — this  is  rather  a  dis- 
agreeable affliction  for  the  master  of  a  vessel. 

29th. — Passed  the  steamer  and  flat  with  passengers  for  Cal- 
cutta— veiy  hot  and  oppressive — arrived  near  Rajmahiil,  and 
found  a  large  portion  of  the  bank  of  the  river  had  fallen  in  ; — it 
was  a  little  land-slip.  The  palm-trees  on  the  fallen  land  were  in 
most  picturesque  disorder.  Moored  off"  the  ancient  palace  of 
Rajmahal :  the  river,  which  formerly  washed  its  walls,  has  de- 
serted it,  and  the  deep  current  is  on  the  opposite  side,  leaving 


SIKRI-GALl.  397 

an  almost  dry  bed  before  the  ruins.  Visited  the  old  baoll 
(well) ,  which  is  beautified  by  age :  down  the  centre  of  it  hang 
long  pendant  shoots  of  the  banyan,  and  the  roots  of  trees : 
thence  I  proceeded  to  the  tombs  of  the  Europeans,  and  to  the 
gateway.  Several  cows  were  quietly  ruminating  under  the  black 
marble  arches  of  the  verandah  of  the  palace  that  overlooks  the 
river.  The  steamers  take  in  their  coal  a  mile  below,  and  there- 
fore do  not  destroy  the  beauty  of  the  old  ruins  with  their  smoke, 
and  steam,  and  Birmingham  appearance.  The  Hills  are  distant 
about  five  miles  inland.  Myriads  of  minute  insects  are  in  great 
number ;  they  fiU  my  nose  Uke  snufF,  and  get  into  my  eyes  and 
ears,  and  torment  me  so  much,  I  find  it  almost  impossible  to 
write ;  they  fill  my  teacup,  and  absolutely  are  giving  forth  a 
vile  odour  fi-om  the  numbers  that  have  found  death  around  the 
flame  of  the  candle. 

30th. — The  early  morning  was  delightful — the  weather  much 
cooler  and  more  agreeable.  Laid  in  fresh  stores — found  remark- 
ably fine  fowls  and  good  yams — sailed  at  4  p.m.,  lugiioed  at  7, 
on  a  sandbank — here  the  insects  are  but  few,  and  do  not  annoy 
me  as  they  did  last  night.  Crocodiles  abound,  and  are  showing 
themselves  continually,  swimming  low  in  the  water.  We  passed 
near  this  place  a  village  full  of  a  caste  of  people  who  live  on 
crocodile  flesh.  My  dandis  say  they  understand  it  smells  rank, 
and  is  very  hard.  Twice  this  evening  I  heard  a  shrill  peculiar 
scream,  and  on  remarking  it  to  the  men,  they  said  it  was  the 
cry  of  the  crocodile.  Twenty-one  miles  above  Rajmahal  and 
two  miles  below  SikrI-gall  Hill  and  Point,  says  the  "  Cal- 
cutta Directory,"  is  the  beautiful  Mootee  Jhuma  waterfall ;  it  is 
visible  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Hills.  I  neither  saw  nor 
visited  it. 

Slst. — Anchored  at  sunset  at  Sikri-gall — landed  and  walked 
to  the  bungalow.  The  French  indigo  planter  had  quitted  the 
place  ;  the  house  was  uninhabited  ;  had  he  been  there,  he  would 
have  exclaimed, 

"  Voila  Madame,  qui  arrive 
Pour  encore  visiter  mes  tigres  !" 

Walked  on  a  short  distance  to  have  a  view  of  the  Hills,  and 


398  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

to  recall  the  memory  of  the  Hill-man  and  his  terl  (wife)  :  saw 
some  beautiful  goats  in  the  village,  which  the  people  refused  to 
sell,  although  I  bribed  them  high.  Wood  and  charcoal  was 
cheap  and  plentiful;  nothing  else  was  to  be  procured.  A 
number  of  jackals  were  roaming  and  howling  in  the  village. 
The  point  of  SikrI-gali  is  very  picturesque  from  the  river. 
The  indigo  factor's  bungalow  would  be  an  excellent  shooting 
box.  It  is  said  the  Jharna  waterfall  and  the  Himalaya  moun- 
tains are  visible  at  times  from  Rajmahal ;  I  have  never  seen 
either.  Bears,  tigers,  rhinoceroses,  leopards,  hogs,  deer  of  all 
kinds,  abound  here,  and  feathered  game  in  the  Hills.  Steamers 
pass  in  ten  days  and  a  half  in  the  dry  season  from  Calcutta. 

Nov.  \st. — Quitted  SikrI-gali  early  ;  the  river  very  rapid, 
nothing  but  dreary  sandbanks,  with  a  distant  view  of  the  Hills. 
Porpoises  gambolling  in  plenty. 

2nd. — Fish  in  abundance  for  sale  on  the  bank  at  Kantnagar ; 
a  dreary  day ;  anchored  on  a  sandbank, — insects  detestable, — 
the  thermometer  at  ten  a.m.  only  70°. 

3rd. — Saw  a  herd  of  buffaloes  swimming  the  river — about  one 
hundred  head ;  the  men  swam  with  them,  each  holding  on  by  a 
buffalo's  tail,  with  his  clothes  carried  high  in  the  air  in  one 
hand.  Some  of  the  men  had  bamboos,  with  which  they  beat 
and  urged  the  animals  to  swim.  Wlien  I  first  caught  sight  of 
them  I  took  them  for  a  reef  of  low  black  rocks,  the  black  heads 
were  so  numerous  and  so  mixed  together.  Late  in  the  evening 
saw  the  rocks  of  Colgong ;  tracked  up  the  left  bank  of  the  river, 
aided  by  a  good  breeze  ;  the  force  of  the  stream  here  is  excessive, 
and  it  was  a  great  piece  of  good  fortune  we  had  a  fair  wind  to 
aid  us  ;  anchored  in  darkness  about  a  mile  below  Kuhulgaon — 
that  is,  Colgong. 

The  "  Directory"  says,  "  Fifty-eight  miles  above  Rajmahal,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  is  the  junction  of  the  Koosie  river. 
On  the  Nepaul  part  of  the  Himalaya,  nearly  opposite,  is  the 
Patturgatta  Hill,  with  one  or  two  temples,  and  is  noted  in  native 
tradition  for  a  cave  (only  a  small  hole),  into  which,  it  is  said,  a 
Rajah,  with  an  immense  suite,  and  one  lakh  of  torch-bearers, 
entered,  and  never  returned ; — such  is  the  story  of  the  attending 


ROCKS    OF    COLGOXG  399 

fakir.  Hence  are  beautiful  views  of  isolated  hills,  and  the  tips 
of  the  Colgong  Rocks.  The  Southern  or  Patturgatta  passage 
up  to  Colgong  has  some  very  dangerous  rocks,  where,  if  a  boat 
touches,  not  a  soul  can  be  saved." 

4th. — At  day-break  arose  to  get  a  view  of  the  rocks ;  made 
the  manjhi  cross  over  to  the  Colgong  side,  to  enable  me  to 
take  a  sketch  from  that  bank.  These  rocky  islands  are  very 
singular  and  beautiful,  and  there  are  four  of  them  ;  rocks  on 
rocks,  covered  with  fine  foliage,  they  rise  straight  out  of  the 
centre  of  the  river,  which  runs  like  a  mill-sluice,  and  is  here 
extremely  broad ;  we  came  up  the  left  passage,  which  is  naviga- 
ble after  the  rains.  They  say  no  one  lives  upon  these  rocks ; 
that  a  fakir  formerly  took  up  his  abode  there,  but  having  been 
eaten  by  a  snake  (an  ajgar),  one  of  enormous  size,  and  an  eater 
of  human  flesh,  the  people  became  alarmed,  and  no  holy  or 
unholy  person  has  since  taken  up  their  residence  on  these  rocky 
islands.  Here  we  bought  two  very  fine  rohii  fish  (cyprinus 
denticulatus)  for  six  anas,  but  could  not  procure  any  of  the 
rock  fish :  small  boats  were  under  the  rocks  fishing,  and  snakes, 
they  say,  abound  upon  them. 

"The  village  of  Colgong  is  sixty-eight  miles  above  Calcutta, 
and  eighteen  below  Bhagulpur  ;  it  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  has  a  fine  nala  and  shelter  for  boats :  it  is  a  coal  depot 
for  steamers.  The  left  passage  should  never  be  attempted  by 
either  steamers  or  boats  in  the  rains,  as  the  currents  and  eddies 
between  the  main  and  the  rocks  make  it  certain  loss  for  any 
native  boats,  and  too  dangerous  for  steamers  ;  boats,  in  attempt- 
ing it,  must  be  careful  to  have  very  strong  tracking  lines  low  down 
on  their  prows,  with  plenty  of  trackers,  and  two  bowhnes  as 
guys  to  the  bank,  and  be  kept  close  in.  Rock  fish  are  procur- 
able here,  also  fowls,  kids,  eggs,  &c." 

I  longed  to  have  a  gun  fired,  to  awaken  the  echoes,  and  to 
startle  the  myriads  of  birds  that  inhabit  these  singular  rocks. 
We  have  just  passed  a  most  enormous  crocodile  ;  it  was  basking 
in  the  sun  on  a  sandbank,  looking  Uke  the  stem  of  a  dry  tree, 
and,  but  for  a  pecuUar  shine  and  polish,  and  the  shade  cast  on 
the  bank,  you  would  not  have  supposed  it  a  living  animal : 


i 


400  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

some  diindis,  tracking  near  it,  aroused  the  enormous  beast,  and 
it  took  refuge  in  the  river  ;  it  was  one  of  the  largest  I  ever  saw. 
Birds  were  around  in  innumerable  flights.  The  river  presents  a 
singular  picture ;  the  expanse  of  water  is  very  great,  interspersed 
with  low  sandbanks  in  every  direction.  Three  crocodiles  are  on 
the  banks, — one  at  full  length  out  of  the  river,  on  the  top  of  the 
bank,  the  other  two  half  out  of  the  water,  and  lying  flat  upon  it. 
One  of  the  native  charpals,  on  which  a  corpse  has  been  brought 
down  to  be  burned,  and  which,  from  being  reckoned  unclean,  is 
always  left  on  the  spot,  is  on  a  sandbank ;  it  is  upset,  the  feet  in 
the  air,  and  seated  inside  is  an  enormous  vulture,  gorged  from  his 
horrible  feast.  Storks,  with  their  long  legs  and  white  bodies, 
are  numerous  in  the  water ;  cuid  some  very  soft-plumed  birds, 
looking  like  large  doves,  are  on  the  sands ;  whilst  countless 
birds,  in  flocks,  are  flying  in  every  direction.  We  anchored  on 
a  fine  open  clean  sandbank,  and  enjoyed  the  coolness  of  the 
evening  and  the  quietude  around  us ;  no  human  habitations 
were  to  be  seen, — nothing  but  the  expanse  of  the  broad  river, 
and  its  distant  banks. 


CHAPTER  LXV. 


SKETCHES  ON  THE  GANGES  FROM  COLGONG  TO  DINAPUR. 

Bhagulpur — Rock  and  Temple  of  Janghira — Cytisus  Cajan — Force  of  the 
Current — Monghir — An  Aerolite — Bairagi  Temples — Dwakanath  Tagore — 
Rosaries —  Vases  —  Suraj-garha  —  Bar  —  Beggars  and  Swine  —  BenipQr — 
Bankipfir — Azimabad — Suraj  Puja — Patna — The  Gola — Deegah — Havell's 
Farm — Dinapiir. 

1844,  Nov.  5th. — At  noon  we  moored  oflF  the  Civil  station  of 
Bhagulpur.  The  river-side  has  been  very  picturesque  the  whole 
distance  from  Colgong.  Procured  mutton,  fowls,  yams,  &c., 
from  the  bazar ;  and  purchased  some  pieces  of  silk  and  some 
imitation  Scotch  plaid,  that  was  brought  for  sale  to  the  budge- 
row.  Accompanied  the  Judge  to  see  the  new  church,  the  build- 
ing of  which  he  superintends  ;  saw  the  monument  which  was 
erected  in  honour  of  Mr.  Cleveland,  of  the  Civil  Service,  by  the 
Zamlndars,  and  was  told,  that  at  the  other  end  of  the  station 
is  another  monument  erected  to  him  by  the  Government.  He 
brought  the  Hill  people  into  subjection,  by  whom  he  was  styled 
the  "  Father  of  their  Country."  Bhagulpur  is  eighteen  miles 
above  Colgong ;  it  is  two  hundred  and  sixty-eight  miles  by  land 
from  Calcutta, — by  water,  from  the  same  place,  three  hundred 
and  forty-eight  miles  in  the  rains,  and  six  hundred  and  thirty- 
six  in  the  dry  season, — and  the  dak  runs  in  two  days  and  a 
quarter.     Steamers  take   nine  and   a  half  or   eleven   days   to 

VOL.  11.  D  d 


402  WANDERINGS    OF    A   PILGRIM. 

arrive  here.  A  light  kind  of  silk,  called  tasar,  is  sold  in  this 
bazar,  also,  shot  silks  of  various  colours,  useful  for  razals 
and  native  wear,  and  a  kind  of  cloth  called  baflas.  Here  are  a 
few  Hill  rangers  and  a  sepahl  station. 

6th. — A  pleasant  and  cool  sail,  the  wind  being  fair  at  times ; 
lugaoed  off  a  sandbank.  But  few  insects,  there  being  no  trees 
near  us. 

jth. — ^To-day,  to  my  sorrow,  I  was  unable  to  pay  the  Rock 
and  Temple  of  Janghira  a  visit,  in  consequence  of  the  deep 
stream  being  on  the  other  side  the  river ;  still,  I  was  near 
enough  to  sketch  it, — and  very  pretty  and  picturesque  is  its 
situation.  It  is  twenty-five  miles  above  Bhagulpur ;  the  rocky 
point  on  which  the  old  ruined  mosque  stands,  close  to  Janghira, 
with  the  mountains  beyond,  would  form  a  good  subject  for  a 
picture.  Just  above  the  rock  we  met  a  large  fleet  of  pinnaces, 
budgerows,  and  country  boats,  of  all  sorts  and  sizes,  conveying 
the  Buffs  from  Allahabad  to  Calcutta,  for  embarkation  for 
England ;  I  counted  sixty-four  vessels.  On  account  of  their 
coming  down  with  the  stream  the  sight  was  not  as  picturesque  as 
it  would  have  been  had  they  been  going  up  the  river.  All 
vessels  put  up  very  small  low  masts  and  scarcely  any  sail  when 
going  with  the  stream,  on  account  of  its  extreme  velocity ; 
but  ascending  the  river  they  carry  very  high  masts,  and  an 
overpowering  quantity  of  sail.  The  last  time  I  saw  the  Buffs 
was  at  a  ball  they  gave  at  Meeinit, — a  farewell  on  going  to 
Afghanistan. 

The  weather  is  now  most  agreeable,  delightfully  cool, — a  sharp, 
clear,  pure  air  ;  we  use  a  pankha  at  dinner-time,  hung  from  the 
ceiling  of  the  cabin,  but  do  not  require  it  during  the  rest  of  the 
day ;  the  nights  are  cold.  We  have  moored ;  and  the  poor 
goats,  who  for  three  days  have  been  on  a  barren  sandbank  of  an 
evening,  have  now  a  fine  field  of  urur  (cytisus  cajan)  to  browse 
upon.  The  people  have  cut  some,  and  the  goats  will  therefore 
be  happy  to-morrow ;  this  is  a  theft,  but  allowable  on  the  banks 
of  the  river,  because  a  less  rent  is  paid  for  land  subject  to  the 
visits  of  depredators  from  the  Ganges. 

8th. — A  large  white  house  on  the  hill  at  Monghir  is  visible. 


MONGHIR.  403 

T  was  charmed  with  the  scene  when  I  went  on  deck  at  half-past 
seven  this  morning :  the  river  in  this  part  is  extremely  broad 
and  very  shallow,  with  a  stream  running  like  a  mill-sluice ;  a 
fair  wind  was  blowing,  and  we  were  in  the  midst  of  about  five 
hundred  vessels,  which  had  been  detained  there  in  consequence 
of  the  force  of  the  stream.  With  this  fine  wind,  however,  they 
all  set  sail ;  the  lighter  vessels  with  great  difficulty  passed  the 
bad  part  of  the  river,  the  larger  and  heavier  craft  got  up  to  a 
certain  point,  and  beyond  that  they  could  not  proceed,  but  one 
by  one  lowered  their  sails,  and  fell  back  on  a  sandbank,  where 
they  lay  all  in  a  row,  like  a  line  of  soldiers.  I  amused  myself 
with  watching  the  vessels  as  they  came  up  to  the  testing  point, 
and  went  forward  triumphantly,  or  fell  back  into  the  line  of  the 
hopeless.  The  cook-boat,  with  our  assistance,  was  brought  up 
with  great  difficulty ;  the  budgerow  bravely  made  way  against  the 
fierce  current ;  the  wooluk,  unable  to  stem  the  stream,  fell  back, 
took  some  other  passage,  and  parted  company.  Late  at  night 
we  anchored  on  one  of  those  fine,  hard,  cool,  clean  sandbanks ; 
the  sand  is  mixed  with  such  a  quantity  of  mica  (talc),  that  at 
night,  by  the  light  of  a  candle,  it  shines  as  if  sprinkled  with 
silver-dust.  We  expected  to  have  reached  Monghir  to-day,  but 
the  winding  of  the  river  and  the  force  of  the  stream  have 
prevented  us. 

9th. — Arrived  at  Monghir.  The  river-side  was  covered  with 
boats  of  all  sorts  as  thickly  planted  as  possible :  the  baziir 
extends  all  along  the  edge  of  the  river,  and  some  good  houses 
belonging  to  the  gentlemen  at  the  station  are  on  the  higher 
ground ;  the  churchyard  is  beyond,  and  the  Old  Fort  at  the 
point.  The  moment  we  anchored  we  were  assailed  with  hundreds 
of  beggars ;  their  clamour  and  cries  were  most  annoying,  they 
were  a  complete  pest, — driving  them  away  was  useless.  The 
people  selling  pistols,  necklaces,  bathing-chairs,  baskets,  toys, . 
shoes,  &c.,  raised  such  a  hubbub,  it  was  disgusting ;  we  had  all  the 
Venetians  shut  on  that  side,  and  the  people  had  the  impudence 
to  get  down  into  the  water  and  peep  through  them ;  the 
chaprasTs  drove  them  off,  but  they  were  back  again  the  next 
minute  like  a  swarm  of  bees. 

Dd2 


404  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

I  may  here  insert  a  paragraph  I  saw  in  the  papers : — 
"  The  Asiatic  Society  has  obtained  an  aeroUte,  or  a  mass  of 
meteoric  iron,  found  imbedded  in  the  soil  on  the  top  of  the 
Kurruckpore  Hills,  near  Monghyr,  which  had  been  exhumed 
and  worshipped  by  the  natives  for  many  years.  It  is  a  block, 
weighing  about  1601bs.,  of  a  somewhat  conical,  oviform,  disk 
shape,  standing  on  a  sort  of  foot,  and  slightly  truncated  at  both 
ends ;  it  contains  iron,  nickel,  cobalt,  chromium,  siUca,  alumina, 
and  traces  of  arsenic  and  selenium." 

1 0th. — The  next  day  we  started.  The  Fort  is  a  good  object 
from  this  side,  but,  on  turning  the  corner,  how  much  was  I 
charmed  to  see  the  most  picturesque  cluster  of  bairdgi  temples 
imaginable  !  The  maths  are  surrounded  by  fine  trees,  the  ruined 
bastion  of  the  old  fort  juts  out  into  the  river,  and  has  fragments 
of  rock  at  its  base.  The  high  spires  of  the  white  temples  seen 
among  the  trees,  the  slender  bamboos  with  their  bright  red  or 
white  flags,  and  a  sort  of  Hindu  altar  in  front,  are  beautifully 
grouped.  On  a  large  stone  in  the  river,  just  in  front  of  the 
temples,  shaded  from  the  sun  by  an  immense  chatr  (umbrella) 
made  of  straw,  sat  two  Hindu  priests,  who  were  a  picture  in 
themselves  ;  upright  at  their  side  was  a  very  high  thin  bamboo, 
crowned  with  the  branch  of  some  holy  tree,  from  which  a  lota  was 
suspended  in  the  air.  The  whole  was  reflected  in  the  Ganges,  and 
the  vessels  and  distant  land  finished  the  picture.  It  came  upon 
me  by  surprise  :  had  I  known  of  the  temples  that  were  hidden 
from  my  view  by  the  bastion  of  the  fort,  I  should  have  walked 
there  the  evening  before.  The  "  Directory  "  tells  you  of  the 
articles  in  the  bazar,  but  omits  these  gems  of  oriental  beauty, 
which  are  invaluable  to  a  lover  of  the  picturesque.  Beyond 
this  stretch  the  walls  of  the  old  fort,  which  are  of  very  great 
extent,  and  the  view  of  Monghir   is  good  from   this  part  of 

the  Ganges.     Mr.  D told  us,  that  in  coming  up  the  river 

during  the  last  rains,  the  current  at  Colgong  was  terrific ;  on 
the  left  bank  was  a  whirlpool  that  set  directly  on  the  rocks,  and 
it  would  have  been  certain  destruction  to  any  boat  attempting 
that  passage ;  and  on  the  right  bank  was  another  whirlpool, 
of  such  force,  that,  in  tracking  to  a  certain  point,  the  dandls 


DWAKANATH    TAGORE.  405 

jumped  into  the  river,  and  fixed  a  hawser  to  prevent  the  vessel 
being  carried  round  and  round  by  the  current,  and  dashed 
upon  the  rocks  ;  with  care  this  passage  was  navigable,  but 
the  other  was  not  to  be  attempted.  From  this  gentleman's 
house  on  the  hill  at  Monghir  the  view  across  the  river  was 
bounded  by  the  horizon,  as  at  sea,  the  waters  were  so  high 
and  the  expanse  so  great. 

Dwakanath  Tagore  is  going  to  Europe  for  two  years,  and  is  to 
visit  the  King  of  France.  The  magnet  that  attracts  the  Wise 
Man  of  the  East  is  the  beauty  of  the  opera-dancers,  and  the 
delight  above  aU  others  that  he  has  at  the  opera  in  Paris,  seeing, 
as  he  says,  three  hundred  of  the  most  beautiful  women  in  the 
world  aU  together ; — the  baboo  is  rather  beside  himself  on  the 
subject. 

According  to  the  steam  regulations,  the  Civil  station  of 
Monghir  is  half-way  from  Calcutta, — one  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  miles  above  Rajmahal,  and  twenty-five  above  the  rock  of 
Janghlra.  Among  the  articles  manufactured  here,  the  black  vases 
for  flowers,  turned  in  white  wood,  and  lacquered  whilst  on  the 
lathe  with  seahng-wax,  are  pretty.  The  necklaces  and  bracelets 
in  imitation  of  jet,  at  two  or  three  rupees  the  set,  are  beautifully 
made ;  necklaces  of  St.  Agnes's  beads,  monkeys,  chameleons, 
and  male  bamboos, — every  thing  is  forthcoming  in  the  bazar, 
with  the  exception  of  ducks.  The  steamer's  passage  is  from 
ten  to  fourteen  days  to  this  place, — three  hundred  and  ninety- 
eight  miles  by  the  BhagirathI,  six  hundred  and  eighty-six  by 
Sunderbands,  and  three  hundred  and  four  by  dak ;  the  latter 
runs  in  two  days  and  three-quarters.  On  arrival  here  the 
collector's  and  the  magistrate's  book  is  sent  on  board,  for  entry  of 
all  passengers'  names.  Two  miles  S.W.  by  W.  of  Monghir  are 
some  rocks,  with  a  mark  on  them, — they  were  formerly  in  the 
steamer's  track,  but  are  now  buried  in  an  immense  sandbank ; 
steamers  stop  here  three  or  four  hours  for  coals.  Moored  off 
the  village  of  Husseingunge. 

llth. — At  noon  passed  the  large  village  of  Suraj-garha, 
twenty  miles  above  Monghir,  with  a  small  river  that  runs  down 
from  the  hills  ;  fowls  and  kids  are  procurable  here,  through  the 


k 


406  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

jiimadar's  assistance,  for  boat  travellers.  Lu^oed  off  a  sand- 
bank; the  weather  has  become  very  cold, — the  thermometer 
this  evening  72°,  with  a  sharp  wind. 

I2th. — ^The  river  very  uninteresting ;  the  villages  dirty  and 
disgusting,  filled  with  pigs  and  most  noisy  beggai-s  :  moored  the 
boats  as  far  away  from  a  village  as  we  could,  and  were  even  then 
obhged  to  drive  off  the  beggars,  whose  incessant  noise  left  us 
neither  peace  nor  quiet. 

ISth. — Passed  a  remarkably  fine  banyan-tree,  the  roots  of 
which  are  exposed,  from  the  river  having  washed  away  the  earth ; 
would  have  stopped  to  sketch  it,  but  could  not  venture  on 
shore  amidst  such  a  crowd  of  clamorous  beggars  and  filthy 
swine, — such  pigs !  so  lank  and  lean,  and  long-legged  and  thin- 
flanked,  with  staring  bristles,  all  busily  employed  in  turning  up 
the  earth  with  their  unringed  noses!  Old  wretched  beggar- 
women,  with  their  skeleton  bodies  and  long  white  hair,  are  pur- 
suing the  budgerow,  uttering  their  monotonous  cries  for  charity. 
There  is  a  tope  of  tamarind-trees  that  looks  most  inviting  at 
Bar,  and  the  tar  or  fan  palms  are  remarkably  fine — ^the  natives 
say  they  are  fifty  cubits  high.  There  are  many  spreading 
banyan-trees  near  this  place,  and  the  scenery  of  the  interior 
looks  very  inviting.  The  large  town  and  mart  of  Bar  is  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  sixty  miles  above  Monghir,  and 
fifty  below  Dinapur,  a  bye  depot  for  steamers'  coals ;  for  twenty 
miles  above  and  below,  all  this  bank  of  the  river  is  noted  for 
piggery  villages  and  saltpetre  manufactories.  Lugaoed  a  little 
above  Bar. 

I4th. — After  a  most  uninteresting  day  among  shallows  and  sand- 
banks, moored  off  Benipur :  walked  towards  a  Ught  I  saw  at  a  dis- 
tance, and  found  a  pohce-station .  At  the  side  was  a  burial-ground 
of  the  Faithful ;  some  Mahomedan  saint  was  there  entombed. 
The  light  was  burning  in  the  niche  of  the  pillar  at  the  head  of 
the  tomb.  It  was  under  a  most  magnificent  old  banyan- tree, 
growing  on  a  bank ;  the  river  had  washed  away  the  ground  from 
its  roots,  and  they  were  starting  forth  in  all  picturesque  forms. 
Four  large  suckers  having  fallen  to  the  ground,  had  each  taken 
root,  and  had  attained  the  size  of  a  tree — the  great  branches 


AZIMABAD.  407 

spread  in  every  direction.  Next  to  it  was  a  remarkably  fine 
old  tamarind-tree :  two  or  three  tombs  were  around  under 
the  shadow  of  these  and  other  trees ;  the  lamp  in  the  tomb 
rendered  them  visible,  and  the  young  moon  shed  a  bright  light 
between  the  boughs,  but  not  sufficient  to  dispel  the  deep  dark- 
ness around.  One  of  the  banyan-trees  to  the  left  was  so  old,  all 
its  branches  had  fallen  off,  and  its  trunk  was  cleft,  open,  and 
hollow.  It  measured  thirty  feet  in  circumference :  these  ancient 
trees  and  tombs  would  be  a  beautiful  subject  for  a  picture.  I 
asked  a  native  at  the  spot  to  tear  off  a  small  branch  of  the 
banyan-tree :  he  said,  "  You  can  gather  a  bough  yourself,  if  you 
like,  but  I  cannot  break  one  off  from  the  tree  that  shades  the 
tomb  of  a  Plr," — a  saint. 

1 5th. — The  "  Directory"  says,  on  the  right  bank,  eighty-seven 
miles  above  Monghir,  and  nine  miles  below  the  Patna,  or  rather 
Bankipur  station,  is  a  large  native  town,  with  a  river  on  its 
upper  or  western  end  that  flows  from  the  Hills,  and  has  a 
pukka,  i.  e.  brick  or  stone  bridge,  over  it.  As  we  passed  Futwa 
early,  some  fat  merchants,  who  were  bathing  in  the  river,  asked 
if  we  wanted  any  tablecloths  or  towels,  for  which  the  place  is 
famous.  We  anchored  at  a  holy  spot ;  the  tomb  of  a  saint  is 
there ;  both  the  tomb  and  the  pillar  are  built  of  mud :  it  is 
raised  on  a  high  platform  of  earth,  which  is  well  secured  from 
the  inroads  of  the  river  by  a  palisade  of  the  trunks  of  trees,  the 
outside  being  covered  with  old  planks  from  vessels.  The  priest 
showed  it  with  great  glee,  and  said,  "  It  is  the  command  that  the 
river  shall  never  touch  this  holy  tomb,  which  has  stood  here  for 
seven  hundred  years.  You  see  it  is  built  of  mud ;  the  river 
overflows  all  the  villages  around,  but  this  place  is  untouched. 
It  is  the  command  that  the  tomb  is  never  to  be  built  of  stone." 
On  my  remarking  the  strength  of  the  paUsades,  he  was  much 
inclined  to  be  abusive,  and  demanded  alms  with  the  outcries 
and  whine  of  a  beggar. 

Wth. — The  first  glance  on  the  river  this  morning  delighted 
me  :  we  were  off  an  old  ruined  bastion  which  had  partly  fallen 
into  the  stream ;  on  its  top  was  a  beautiful  burj  (turret) — there  was 
another  bastion  a  little  further  on,  and  then  some  temples  and  two 


408  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

more  buruj.  We  had  now  arrived  at  Azlmabad,  as  the  ancient 
city  of  Patna  is  called  by  the  Muhammadans,  which  extends  a 
great  distance  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  been,  among  others,  the  site  of  the  ancient  Palibothra ; 
the  Hindoo  appellation  is  Sri  Nagar. 

"  The  hypocrites  of  BhagulpQr,  the  footpads  of  Kuhulgaon, 
and  the  bankrupts  of  Patna,  are  all  famous'."  The  Hindoos 
were  coming  down  in  large  parties,  preceded  by  tomtoms 
(native  drums),  and  musical  instruments  of  all  sorts,  to  bring 
their  offerings  to  the  river.  They  carried  baskets  filled  with 
fruits  or  vegetables  to  the  river-side,  and  great  bunches  of 
plantains,  and  washed  them  in  the  river.  The  Brahmans  poured 
water  on  the  offerings,  prayers  were  repeated,  the  people  bathed 
and  returned  home. 

It  was  the  festival  of  the  Sun — the  Suraj  Puja.  The  dresses 
of  the  people  were  of  the  most  brilUant  colours.  Flags  of  a 
bright  crimson  colour,  bearing  the  image  of  Hunuman  blazoned 
in  white  upon  them,  were  flying  at  the  end  of  long  slender 
bamboos. 

Advancing  higher  up  the  river,  near  the  old  fort,  there  are 
picturesque  houses  of  all  sorts,  intermixed  with  Hindoo  temples, 
fine  trees,  and  distant  masjids.  A  sandbank  in  the  centre  of 
the  Ganges  was  covered  with  temporary  huts  of  straw,  where  the 
devout  were  bathing  and  offering  flowers  and  fruits ;  it  was  a 
beautiful  scene,  that  animated  multitude  on  the  sandbank  and  in 
the  river,  with  the  high  bank  on  the  opposite  side  covered  with 
the  houses  and  the  temples  of  the  city.  The  pinnaces  and  vessels 
of  all  sorts  were  decked  with  flags.  Large  parties  of  women, 
dressed  in  the  gayest  attire  and  the  most  various  colours,  were 
doing  puja,  bathing  in  the  river,  or  presenting  their  offerings  of 
fruit,  flowers,  &c.,  to  the  attendant  Brahmans.  "  While  bathing, 
the  Hindoos  repeat  certain  incantations,  in  order  to  bring  the 
waters  of  all  the  holy  places  in  the  heaven  of  Sooryii  into  the 
spot  where  they  are  standing,  and  thus  obtain  the  merit  of 
bathing,  not  only  in  Gunga,  but  in  all  the  sacred  rivers,  &c.,  in  the 

'  Oriental  Provtrbs,  No.  136. 


PATNA— THE   GOLA.  409 

heaven  of  the  Sun-god.  After  bathing,  too,  the  Hindoos  make 
their  obeisance  to  this  god  in  a  standing  posture ;  the  more  devout 
draw  up  their  joined  hands  to  their  forehead,  gaze  at  the  sun, 
make  prostrations  to  him,  and  then  turn  round  seven  times, 
repeating  certain  forms  of  petition  and  praise.  On  these  occa- 
sions they  hold  up  water  in  their  joined  hands,  and  then  pour  out 
a  drink-offering  to  the  sun."  The  number  of  boats  off  Patna  is 
quite  surprising.  There  is  a  boat-builder's  on  the  opposite  sand- 
bank, and  a  great  number  of  vessels  with  large  timber-trees 
are  off  the  place.  Passing  Hadjipur,  we  were  not  tempted  to 
go  on  shore,  although  the  fair  was  being  held  there,  not  re- 
quiring elephants,  horses,  or  shawls.  The  bungalow  and  race- 
course are  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Gunduk  that  runs  from  the 
Nepaul  Hills;  the  large  native  town  is  on  the  right  bank. 
People  tiock  from  all  parts  of  India  to  its  annual  fair,  which 
will  last  this  month  as  long  as  the  moon  shines.  We  anchored 
on  a  sandbank  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  nearly  opposite  the 
Gola  or  Gol-ghar.  The  "  Directory"  says,  Patna,  the  Civil  sta- 
tion of  Bankipur,  extends  about  ten  miles  along  the  right  bank, 
fourteen  miles  below  Dinapur.  It  is  noted  for  opium,  gram, 
and  wax  candles,  and  is  a  very  large  mart.  Seventeen  hundred 
boats  of  burden  have  been  counted  lying  here  at  one  time.  It 
is  the  residence  of  a  Nawiib,  and  a  Sadr  and  Civil  station. 
The  Government  establishments  are  at  Bankipur,  or  the  upper 
extreme  of  Patna,  where  there  are  some  handsome  houses,  also 
a  very  large  and  noted  granary  built  like  a  dome,  with  two 
flights  of  steps  outside,  to  ascend  to  its  top,  on  which  is  a  large 
circular  hole,  to  admit  air  into  the  building,  and  to  start  grain 
into ;  it  has  only  one  door,  and  was  built  for  a  depot  in  case  of 
famine.  It  is  a  very  massive  building,  noted  for  its  nume- 
rous, clear,  and  strong  echoes,  and  is  at  present  used  as  a  guard- 
house. 

Steamers  seldom  stop  here :  sometimes  not  being  able  to  get 
within  a  mile  or  two,  passengers  can  land  at  the  lower  end  and 
get  ekhas,  or  hackeries,  (a  native  one-horse  conveyance,)  to  take 
them  up  to  Bankipur  or  Dinapur,  fourteen  miles  distant,  by 
way  of  a  change  or  novelty,  where  they  can  inspect  the  golii 


410  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

or  granary  by  the  road-side.  The  road  is  very  good  up  to  the 
military  cantonments  at  Dinapur.     , 

17 th. — Landed  to  go  to  Havell's  farm  at  Deegah ;  found  his 
widow  there — a  very  old  half-caste  personage.  The  establish- 
ment must  have  been  a  fine  one  formerly  ;  now  the  sheds  are  all 
empty,  and  scarcely  any  thing  is  done  there.  Ordered  some 
beef  brawn  and  Chili  vinegar,  both  of  which  proved  good.  On 
our  arrival  at  Dinapur  my  manjhi  wished  to  anchor  under  the 
flag-staff,  to  which  I  objected,  on  account  of  the  crowd  of 
boats  there  :  had  to  go  on  the  distance  of  a  kos,  until  we  were 
past  the  Lines,  to  the  ghat  opposite  the  native  hospital, — a  very 
uncomfortable  place. 

I8th. — Bought  a  mim  of  six-inch  wax  candles  of  Kinnoo  Lall, 
price  eighty  rupees.  Much  disgusted  with  the  annoyance  of 
being  obliged  to  procure  fresh  dandis  for  the  wooliik,  and  having 
to  send  a  chaprasl  with  the  manjhi  to  fetch  them  from  the  other 
side  of  the  river. 

I9th. — ^The  sardar-bearer  here  informed  us  he  intended  to 
quit  us  ;  this  was  troublesome  ;  indeed,  the  homes  of  the  people 
being  often  near  Dinapur,  the  servants  select  this  place  for 
quitting  their  masters  and  going  home,  with  or  without  warning, 
just  as  it  may  suit  their  own  convenience.  At  4  p.m.  the  fresh 
dandis  arrived  for  the  woolak  ;  how  glad  I  shall  be  to  get  away 
from  this  place ! 

Dinapiir  is  a  large  European  and  mihtary  station,  where  the 
steamers  stop  by  the  cantonment  flag-staff  to  take  in  coals  and 
passengers.  It  is  considered  as  two-thirds  of  the  passage  up- 
wards. It  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ganges,  distant  from 
Calcutta  by  steamer's  route,  via  Bhagirathi,  five  hundred  and 
eight  miles;  via  Sunderbands,  seven  hundred  and  ninety-six;  by 
land,  three  hundred  and  seventy-six.  The  letter  dak  takes  three 
and  a  half  days.  Mutton,  beef,  fowls,  eggs,  bread,  butter, 
fruits  of  various  kinds,  and  grapes  in  May  and  June  are  procura- 
ble ;  also  tablecloths,  napkins,  towels,  cotton  handkerchiefs,  sola 
hats,  muslin  and  cotton  cloth,  shoes,  harness,  Patna  wax  candles, 
gram,  wild  fowl,  &c.  European  shopkeepers  are  here.  Plays 
are  performed  and  auctions  held.     Passengers  for  Arrah  and 


QUITTED   DINAPUR.  411 

Tirhoot  land  here.  Quitted  Dinapur  with  great  pleasure,  and 
came  to  very  agreeable  moorings  off  Chittenniaw — a  great 
relief  after  the  annoyance  of  being  near  the  ghat  of  a  large 
station.  The  people  with  us  will  now  be  well  behaved,  and 
give  no  more  trouble  to  the  end  of  the  voyage;  i.  e.,  until  we 
arrive  at  Allahabad. 


CHAPTER   LXVI. 


SKETCHES  ON  THE  GANGES  FROM  DINAPUR  TO  BENARES. 

The  Soane  River — Chuppra — Revelgunge — The  Fair  at  Bulleah — Bamboos — 
The  Wreck — Buxar — The  Peepul  Tree  and  Temple  of  Mahadeo — Barrah — 
SatI  Mounds — Kurum-nassa  River — Palace  of  the  Nawab  of  Ghazipiir — The 
Native  Town — The  Gigantic  Image — Three  Satis  and  a  Mandap  or  Hindi! 
Temple — Eight-and-Twenty  Satis — The  Fate  of  Women — The  Kalsas — 
Station  of  Ghazipur — The  Stalking  Horse — Booraneepiir — Kankar  Reefs — 
Seydpur — Burning  the  Dead — Rites  for  the  Repose  of  the  Soul — Brahman! 
Bulls — Funeral  Ceremonies  of  the  Romans — Raj  Ghat,  Bunarus. 

1844,  Nov.  20th. — To-day  the  scenery  has  been  most  unin- 
teresting ;  nothing  to  be  seen  but  sandbanks ;  the  river  is  full 
of  shallows,  and  there  is  no  wind.  Lugaoed  on  a  fine  open 
space  in  the  middle  of  the  river ;  it  is  really  a  good-sized  island 
of  fine  and  beautifully  white  sand.  Four  miles  above  Dinapur 
is  the  junction  of  the  Soane  with  the  Ganges. 

2\st. — Sandbanks  and  shallows  the  whole  day:  we  have 
advanced  very  little,  and  have  moored  as  usual  on  a  bank. 
Looking  around  me,  I  see  nothing  but  a  wilderness  of  sand- 
banks in  the  midst  of  the  broad  river,  only  terminating  with  the 
horizon — not  a  tree,  not  a  house  to  be  seen  ;  here  and  there  a 
distant  sail.  There  is  something  very  pleasing  in  this  mono- 
tonous solitude ;  the  only  sound  the  roar  of  the  sandbanks,  as 
they  give  way  and  fall  into  the  stream,  with  a  noise  hke  distant 
thunder.     These  high  sandbanks  are  undermined  by  the  strong 


THE    FAIR    AT    BUI.IEAH.  413 

current,  and  fall  in  in  great  masses — very  dangerous  to  small 
vessels  passing  near  them. 

22nd. — "  Twenty- two  miles  above  Dinapur,"  says  the  "  Direc- 
tory," "  on  the  left  bank,  is  the  Civil  station  of  Chuppra,  the 
capital  of  the  Sarun  district.  Steamers  seldom  touch  here, 
even  in  the  rains.  Passengers  for  this  place  should  arrange  to 
land  at  Revelgunge,  above  it,  where  there  is  a  steam  agent. 
The  latter  place,  which  is  twenty- seven  miles  by  water  above 
Dinapur,  on  the  left  bank,  is  a  very  large  grain  and  saltpetre 
mart,  and  noted  for  boat-building.  An  annual  fair  is  held  there. 
Steamers  touch  only  to  land  passengers  and  a  few  packages  to 
the  steam  agent's  care.  Thence  up  to  GhazipUr  the  villagers 
are  said  to  be  uncivil  and  dishonest." 

We  had  a  view  of  Chuppra  from  a  distance,  and  then  passed 
Revelgunge.  The  tents  of  a  Raja  were  pitched  on  the  side  of 
the  Ganges,  with  the  khanafs  extending  on  both  sides  into  the 
river  to  screen  the  Raja  from  the  eyes  of  the  curious,  as  he  sat 
under  a  shamiyana  (awning)  in  the  centre.  His  camp  contained 
several  elephants,  one  most  remarkably  large,  a  number  of 
fine  horses  and  camels,  and  all  the  retinue  of  a  wealthy  native. 
Moored  a  Uttle  above  Revelgunge. 

23rd. — A  fair  wind.     Lugiioed  off  a  small  hasti  (village) . 

24th. — A  fair  wind.  Anchored  off  BuUeah  :  a  large  fair  was 
being  held  there  on  the  banks  of  the  river ;  we  moored  two 
miles  away  from  it,  but  the  din  and  uproar,  even  at  that  dis- 
tance, was  like  the  sound  of  waves  breaking  on  a  distant  shore. 
I  walked  to  the  fair ;  it  was  late  in  the  evening,  and  nothing  was 
to  be  seen  but  thousands  of  people  sitting  in  groups  on  the 
ground  cooking  their  dinners,  or  lying  there  asleep.  Some 
groups  of  people  were  watching  the  performance  of  niich  girls, 
go'dld  log,  and  dancing  boys :  every  man  had  a  long  heavy 
bamboo  in  his  hand,  as  a  defence,  and  a  walking  staff. 

The  fakirs  had  erected  altars  of  mud,  on  the  top  of  each  of 
which  was  stuck  a  long  bamboo,  decorated  with  a  flag.  These 
holy  personages,  entirely  naked,  were  sitting  on  the  ground 
under  some  freshly-gathered  boughs  that  were  stuck  up  on  one 
side.     Tf  one  could  but  learn  the  real  history  of  one  of  these 


414  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

men,  it  would  give  one  a  curious  insight  into  human  nature.  A 
fakir  of  this  descri})tion  is  looked  upon  with  respect  by  the 
natives ;  "No  one  inquires  his  caste  or  tribe ;  he  has  put  on 
the  string,  and  is  therefore  a  Brahman'." 

These  men  sit  up  all  night  by  a  fire,  smoking  ganja,  an  in- 
toxicating herb,  eating  sweetmeats  and  ghl,  and  drinking  milk. 
They  never  put  on  any  sort  of  clothing,  and  never  sleep  under 
shelter.  They  say  they  do  not  feel  the  cold,  and  they  eat  the 
offerings  that  are  made  to  them.  They  must  receive  very  large 
sums  ;  the  bearers  give  from  one  to  four  piiisa  to  these  fellows, 
and  a  rich  Hindu  gives  a  rupee.  Groups  of  people  were  sitting 
together  singing  and  playing  on  tom-toms  ;  the  din  was  exces- 
sive, and  the  smoke  very  annoying  from  the  innumerable  fires 
around  the  pathway.  To-morrow  will  be  the  last  day  of  the 
fair. 

25th. — From  7  a.m.  until  1 1  o'clock  we  were  striving  to  get 
the  boats  past  the  fair,  which  extended  for  miles  along  the 
bank  of  the  river.  It  being  the  early  morning,  the  people  were 
bathing  by  thousands ;  the  bank  for  miles  was  covered  with 
moving  figures  ascending  and  descending  the  steep  cliff  in  masses 
as  thick  as  they  could  move.  The  river  below  was  aUve  with  the 
devout.  Hindus  of  all  and  every  class  were  bathing  and  per- 
forming their  devotions.  The  budgerow  was  stopped  some  time 
from  the  difficulty  of  passing  her  gun,  (tracking  line,)  over  the 
tops  of  so  many  high  masts ;  some  persons  cut  the  gun,  and 
they  ran  away  with  part  of  it,  which  theft  detained  us  some 
time.  The  manner  in  which,  by  the  aid  of  a  bamboo,  the 
tracking  rope  is  carried  to  the  top  of  a  mast  and  thrown  over  it, 
is  curious. 

By  the  side  of  the  river  I  saw  several  fakirs  bathing ;  they 
had  thick  heads  of  hair  and  enormous  beards.  One  man  had 
his  hand  and  arm  erect :  it  was  only  partly  withered,  his  vow 
must  therefore  have  been  recently  made,  or  the  arm  would  have 
been  withered  to  the  bone  and  immovably  fixed  in  its  position. 
His  body  was  covered  with  ashes,  and  his  long  elf  locks,  matted 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  137. 


THE    FAIR    AT    BULLEAH.  415 

with  cow-dung  and  yellow  clay,  hung  down  like  so  many  rusty 
yellow  tails.  Hundreds  of  boats  were  bringing  more  people  to 
the  fair.  The  morning  being  cold,  the  people,  wrapped  up  in 
great  white  sheets,  were  huddled  together  in  the  boats,  as  many 
as  it  was  possible  to  cram  together ;  and  at  a  distance  the  vessels 
looked  as  if  they  were  filled  with  bales  of  cotton. 

Cows  were  numerous,  and  were  undergoing  the  usual  puja. 
Sometimes  a  Brahman  was  seen  seated  on  a  charpai  with  a 
chatr  over  his  head,  the  charpai  supported  on  four  bamboos 
that  were  erected  in  the  river,  and  a  fine  triangular  red  flag 
flying  from  each  end  of  the  four  bamboos.  The  effect  was  very 
picturesque  :  red  and  also  white  flags  were  in  profusion,  denoting 
the  abiding  place  of  a  fakir.  Beauty  was  extremely  scarce 
amongst  the  women.  Some  of  the  men  had  fine  features — the 
skin  of  some  of  the  latter  was  almost  of  a  transparent  black,  that 
of  others  of  a  dark  brown  hue,  and  some  exhibited  a  bright  terra 
di  sienna  tint.  I  saw  no  lepers,  which  is  remarkable  ;  it  is  usual 
to  see  one  of  the  pink-coloured  lepers  amongst  any  great  multi- 
tude bathing ;  and  that  leprosy  not  being  catching,  the  people  are 
not  driven  from  the  society  of  their  fellows,  as  are  those  who  are 
afflicted  with  the  Arabian  leprosy. 

I  think  the  number  of  people  collected  at  this  fair  appears 
greater  than  the  number  I  ever  saw  collected  at  Prag ;  the  cliff" 
for  miles  was  covered  with  a  countless  multitude.  Perhaps  the 
people  were  more  conspicuous  on  the  cliffs  than  on  the  flat  sands 
at  the  Tribeni.  A  number  of  respectable-looking  Hindoo 
women  were  in  boats  covered  with  an  awning.  This  large 
native  village  of  Bulleah  is  seventy-four  miles  above  Dinapur, 
on  the  left  bank  :  it  is  a  ddrogah  station,  noted  for  the  fair 
annually  held  there,  as  also  for  a  grain  mart. 

This  is  the  most  dangerous  part  of  the  Ganges  for  quicksands 
and  shifting  banks  :  the  stream  is  very  strong,  boats  being  some- 
times detained  fi-om  four  to  six  weeks,  waiting  for  water  and  a 
favourable  breeze.  The  people  carry  away  the  Ganges  water  from 
this  place  in  sealed  bottles,  as  they  do  from  Prag,  and  sell  it  in 
distant  parts  of  the  country  at  a  high  price.  We  had  a  hard  day's 
work  tracking  amidst  the  sandbanks  against  a  rapid  stream,  and 


416  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PII.GRI.U. 

did  not  anchor  until  the  sun  liad  set  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  and 
the  full  moon  was  high.  I  was  very  glad  to  see  the  moon;  we 
were  in  a  dilemma  on  a  bad  spot  in  the  river ;  however,  after 
much  labour  we  got  off,  and  lugaoed  on  a  comfortable  sandbank. 
A  large  vessel  belonging  to  a  Mirzapur  merchant  was  wrecked 
here  a  month  ago  ;  I  visited  the  wreck, — they  have  recovered 
all  but  fom-teen  bales  of  linen,  which  they  are  digging  out, — 
they  lie  twelve  feet  under  the  sand.  In  the  evening  the  manjhi 
of  my  boat  was  preparing  a  bamboo  to  use  for  pushing  the 
budgerow  (.nwards  ;  I  measured  it  as  it  lay  on  the  ground ;  it  was 
sixty  feet  in  length,  and  most  beautifully  tapered ;  he  said  he 
had  some  spare  ones  on  board  much  longer ;  for  nine  of  these 
bamboos  he  only  paid  one  rupee,  and  he  bought  them  at  the  , 
spot  where  the  BhagirathI  branches  off  from  the  Ganges.  At 
Prag  such  a  bamboo  would  have  cost  eight  anas,  A  chaukidiir 
has  erected  a  hut  close  to  the  wreck  with  her  fragments ;  there 
he  and  his  people  keep  guard  over  her  ;  in  front  is  an  image  of 
Mahadeo,  made  in  mud,  and  ornamented  with  fresh  green  plan- 
tain trees  stuck  into  the  sand  around  the  idol. 

26^A. — Anchored  early  at  Buxar,  just  under  the  fort.  When 
walking  to  see  the  fort  I  was  attracted  to  the  left  by  the  beauty 
of  a  most  remarkably  fine  old  peepul-tree,  which  overshadows 
a  temple  dedicated  to  Mahadeo,  whose  image  is  within  the 
building ;  on  the  outer  wall  is  an  image  of  Hunuman.  The 
temple  is  beautifully  overshadowed,  and  the  stems  of  the  peepul- 
tree — for  it  is  divided  into  many — are  old  and  picturesque,  and 
the  smallness  of  the  leaves  denotes  the  antiquity  of  the  tree.  On 
the  bank  of  the  river  there  is  also  an  old  peepul-tree, — its  long 
branching  roots  are  exposed  to  view,  the  river  having  laid  them 
bare  by  washing  away  the  bank.  Buxar  on  the  right,  and 
Kuruntadee  on  the  left  bank,  are  eighty-eight  miles  above 
Dinapur,  and  are  noted  as  being  the  Honourable  Company's  stud 
establishment :  there  is  a  small  fort  here  where  the  battle  was 
fought. 

27<A. — Quitted  Buxar  early,  and  were  forced  to  anchor  for  a 
time  at  Chounsah  Beerboom,  on  account  of  a  very  heavy  wind, 
which  made  old  Gunga  rise  in  waves,  and  rocked  the  budgerow 


BARRAH SATI    MOUNDS.  417 

like  a  sea :  started  at  4  p.m.  and  arrived  at  the  Kurum-nassa 
river ;  it  is  a  shallow,  melancholy-looking,  small  stream,  with 
nothing  to  be  seen  on  its  banks  but  fishermen's  nets.  Hilsd 
fish  are  here  caught  in  great  numbers,  and  the  rahu  also ;  I 
purchased  one  of  the  latter,  and  some  quail,  which  were  twenty- 
five  per  rupee. 

Lugiioed  at  Barrah,  a  small  village  on  the  right  bank  :  climbed 
the  cliff  in  the  evening ;  a  fisherman  who  resided  there  showed 
me  two  sati  mounds  on  the  top  of  it, — the  one  built  of  stone 
sacred  to  a  Brahman,  the  other  of  mud  in  honour  of  a  Kyiatt. 
A  kalsd  is  the  ornament  on  the  top  of  a  dome  ;  there  were  two  of 
stone,  without  any  points  on  the  sati  mound  of  the  Brahman  ; 
and  two  of  mud,  decorated  with  points,  and  one  small  image,  on 
that  of  the  Kyiatt'. 

T  gave  a  small  present  to  the  people,  and  took  away  one  of 
the  kalsiis  of  mud  as  a  curiosity  :  a  number  of  broken  idols  in 
black  stone  had  been  dug  up,  and  placed  on  the  sati  mound  of 
the  Brahman, — I  was  anxious  to  have  two  of  them,  and  deter- 
mined to  ask  the  fisherman  to  give  them  to  me.  The  old  man 
told  me  with  great  pride  that  one  of  his  family  had  been  a  sati, 
and  that  the  Brahmans  complained  greatly  they  were  not  allowed 
to  burn  the  widows,  as  such  disconsolate  damsels  were  ready 
and  willing  to  be  grilled ;  he  told  me  that  a  great  number  of 
mounds  are  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  just  opposite  at 
Beerpur,  and  that  there  are  several  about  two  miles  higher  up 
the  stream. 

The  Brahmani  ducks  are  calling  to  one  another  from  the 
opposite  banks  of  the  river, — there  must  be  several  pairs  of  them 
from  the  a'o !  a'o !  that  I  hear ;  this  is  only  the  second  time 
during  this  voyage  that  I  have  heard  the  chakwa.  The  wind  is 
down,  there  is  a  soft  and  brilliant  moonlight, — the  weather  is 
really  charming,  and  the  moonlight  nights  delicious;  from  the. 
high  bank  by  the  satis  one  can  see  the  stream  of  the  Ganges 
below,  glittering  in  its  beams. 

"  Eight  miles  above  Buxar,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  is 

'  See  the  Plate  entitled  "  Kalsas,"  Fig.  3. 
VOL.  II.  E  e 


418  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

the  junction  of  the  Kurura-nassa :  the  touch  of  its  waters  is 
considered  as  one  of  the  direst  mishaps  that  can  happen  to  a 
Hindu,  as  it  is  said  it  debars  him  admittance  into  heaven. 
There  is  a  bridge  over  it,  built  by  a  Rajah  ;  this  part  of  the 
country  is  noted  for  decoits."  The  bridge,  which  is  some 
distance  up  the  river,  is  not  visible  from  the  junction. 

Ten  P.M. ;  I  have  just  returned  from  the  sat!  mound,  accom- 
panied by  the  old  fisherman,  who  brought  with  him  two  of  the 
idols  of  black  stone  from  the  Brahman's  mound,  on  which  there 
were  about  twenty  ;  the  old  man  gave  them  to  me  the  moment 
1  asked  for  them  ;  I  gave  him  a  present  afterwards,  therefore  he 
did  not  sell  his  gods ;  but  he  requested  to  be  allowed  to  bring  them 
to  the  boats  during  the  darkness  of  the  night.  He  and  his  family 
are  now  the  sole  inhabitants  of  a  little  hamlet  of  five  houses, 
which  was  formerly  inhabited  by  himself  and  his  four  brothers  ; 
they  are  dead,  and  their  houses,  which  are  in  ruins,  are  close  to 
the  mounds  ;  the  old  man  lives  in  the  centre,  with  one  young  son 
and  two  daughters,  and  keeps  his  dwelling  of  mud  in  comfortable 
condition.  They  tell  me  fowls  and  chakor  (the  red-legged 
partridge)  are  abundant  there;  I  was  unable  to  procure  the 
latter. 

29th. — Stopped  the  budgerow  for  a  few  minutes  off  the  ruins 
of  the  palace  of  the  Nawab  of  Ghazipur.  The  fort-like  bastions 
rise  from  the  Ganges,  and  the  palace  is  built  above ;  the  ghat  is 
of  stone,  wide  and  good  :  this  ruined  palace  has  been  before 
described  in  this  volume,  page  66.  The  native  town  of  Ghazi- 
pur is  full  of  picturesque  beauty  ;  the  mut'hs  are  numerous,  but 
their  architectural  beauty  is  disfigured  by  whitewash  and  edges 
of  dark  red  paint.  There  is  a  gigantic  image  in  mud  smeared 
with  paint,  which  lies  upon  its  back  close  to  the  water's  edge, 
and  has  a  curious  effect :  a  little  further  on  an  old  well  has  fallen 
into  the  river,  on  account  of  the  high  cliff  within  which  it  was 
sunk  having  been  washed  away  ;  the  cliff,  which  is  of  sand,  and 
very  high,  is  covered  with  native  houses,  small  temples,  and 
trees,  from  the  top  to  the  bottom. 


PICTURESQUE    SCENES    ON    THE    RIVER.  419 

THREE    SATIS    AND    A    MANDAP   NEAR   GHAZIPUR. 

Lugaoed  close  to  a  small  and  very  pretty  mandap  or  Hindu 
temple.  I  went  up  to  see  it ;  the  Brahman  opened  the  door, 
and  showed  me  his  idols  with  much  pleasure.  They  consisted 
of  Seeta,  Ram,  and  Lutchman,  painted  red,  and  decked  with  bits 
of  gold  and  silver  tinsel,  and  pieces  of  coloured  cloth.  Hiinoo- 
man  was  displayed  on  the  wall  |)ainted  red,  and  decked  also  with 
red  linen.  The  Brahman  gave  me  a  ball  of  sweetmeat,  which 
he  said  was  the  usual  offering  at  the  shrine.  Two  fine  peepul- 
trees,  which  had  been  planted  together,  are  on  the  high  bank 
above  the  temple,  and  within  their  shade  are  three  satis,  built  of 
stone,  of  octagonal  form,  and  surmounted  by  a  dome  :  the  point 
of  the  dome  is  ornamented  with  a  kalsa  formed  like  a  crown 
with  a  hole  in  the  centre,  and  on  each  of  its  points  or  horns,  on 
certain  days,  a  lighted  lamp  is  placed.  The  cenotaph  is  hollow 
below ;  and  there  is  a  little  arch,  through  which  the  relatives 
also  on  particular  days  place  a  small  lamp,  and  offerings  of 
flowers  within  the  cavity  of  the  little  building,  and  in  the  same 
place  the  two  sir  are  deposited.  The  kalsas  differ  in  form  from 
those  at  Barrah  ;  and  the  satis  are  also  of  higher  caste,  being  of 
stone  and  well  built.  If  the  moon  rise  in  time,  I  will  sketch 
the  spot,  but  I  am  very  much  fatigued,  and  my  head  aches,  not 
only  from  exposure  to  the  sun,  but  from  a  blow  I  received  upon 
it  from  the  tracking  rope  this  morning.  The  insects  do  not 
molest  us  now  at  night,  with  the  exception  of  the  musquitoes, 
which  are  very  troublesome. 

On  the  rising  of  the  moon  I  went  on  shore  to  take  the  sketch, 
and  was  attracted  by  what  appeared  to  be  the  figure  of  a  man 
watching  from  under  a  tree  on  a  high  cliff.  On  going  up  to  it 
I  found  a  sati,  which  had  fallen  to  ruin;  the  remains  were 
whitewashed,  and  a  large  kalsa  had  been  placed  on  the  top, 
which  being  also  whitewashed,  at  a  distance  produced  the 
deception.  See  fig.  2,  which  is  a  sketch  of  this  kalsa  ;  the  sati 
herself,  partially  wrapped  in  her  sari,  is  seated  upon  it ;  it 
is  adorned  with  points,  and  made  of  mud.  I  brought  the  kalsa 
away  with  me ;  it  will  be  replaced  by  the  kumhdr,  or  potter  of  the 
village,  whose  duty  it  is  to  restore  all  kalsas.     On  the  other  side 

Ee2 


420  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

of  the  old  tree  was  another  sati  mound,  and  small  lotas,  earthen 
drinking  vessels,  were  hung  around  the  tree  to  receive  the  offer- 
ings of  the  devout.  I  had  the  curiosity  to  put  my  hand  into 
one  of  them,  and  found  one  betel-nut  which  had  been  placed 
there  as  an  offering.  Peeping  over  a  high  bank,  I  saw  an  open 
space  of  ground,  on  which  were  some  fine  trees,  and  I  could 
scarcely  believe  the  number  of  mounds  that  met  my  eye  were 
those  of  victimized  women.  By  a  little  detour  I  found  the 
entrance  to  this  place  of  cenotaphs,  and  was  shocked  on 
counting  eight-and-twenty  satis.  I  was  alone ;  had  a  Hindu 
been  with  me,  he  would  have  made  saliim  to  each  of  them. 

One  was  large  and  somewhat  in  the  shape  of  a  grave,  after 
the  form  of  the  sati  of  the  Brahman  at  Barrah.  The  others  were 
of  various  forms ;  the  richer  ones  were  of  stone,  of  an  oc- 
tagonal shape,  and  surmounted  by  a  dome ;  some  were  so  small 
and  low,  they  were  not  higher  than  one  foot  from  the  earth, 
like  a  little  ant  hill,  but  ornamented  with  a  kalsa,  which  quite 
covered  the  little  mound.  Those  of  stone  were  from  six  to 
eight  feet  high,  and  of  various  forms.  There  is  a  hollow  space 
within  the  sati,  into  which,  through  the  little  arch,  the  offerings 
are  placed ;  and  there  also  are  deposited  the  two  sir,  as  they  call 
them,  which  are  made  of  stone,  and  are  like  a  cannon  ball 
split  in  halves.  See  the  plate  of  the  kalsiis,  fig.  1 .  One  very 
old  sati  tomb,  in  ruins,  stood  on  the  edge  of  the  high  cliff  above 
the  river,  shaded  by  a  clump  of  bamboos.  The  spot  interested 
me  extremely.  It  is  very  horrible  to  see  how  the  weaker  are 
imposed  upon ;  and  it  is  the  same  all  over  the  world,  civilized  or 
uncivilized — perhaps  some  of  these  young  married  women,  from 
eleven  to  twenty  years  of  age,  were  burnt  aUve,  in  all  the  freshness 
of  youth  ;  it  may  be  with  the  corpse  of  some  decrepit  sickly  old 
wretch  to  whom  their  parents  had  given  them  in  marriage. 

The  laws  of  England  relative  to  married  women,  and  the  state 
of  slavery  to  which  those  laws  degrade  them,  render  the  lives  of 
'  some  few  in  the  higher,  and  of  thousands  in  the  lower  ranks  of 
life,  one  perpetual  sati,  or  burning  of  the  heart,  from  which  they 
have  no  refuge  but  the  grave,  or  the  cap  of  liberty, — i.e.  the 
widow's,  and  either  is  a  sad  consolation. 


II 


^   SVelgHed  on  the  spol 


Ml*    on  S^oryrhy         r- 

—  77  ♦ ; 


KULSAS 


KALSAS.  421 

"  It  is  this  passive  state  of  suffering  which  is  most  difficult  to 
endure,  and  which  it  is  generally  the  fate  of  women  to  expe- 
rience. It  is  too  commonly  their  lot  to  be  deceived  into  a 
beUef,  that  as  they  are  the  gentler  sex,  so  they  ought  to  be  the 
weakest.  Alas,  it  is  far  otherwise ;  the  soldier  covered  with 
wounds  of  glory,  the  mariner  warring  with  the  elements,  the 
sage  consuming  his  strength  with  the  midnight  oil,  or  the  bigot 
wearing  life  away  with  fanatical  zeal  in  false  devotion,  require 
not  the  unshrinking  firmness,  the  never-failing  patience,  the 
unbending  fortitude  which  is  expected  from  almost  every 
woman." 

The  river  has  encroached  so  much  upon  the  cliff,  and  so  much 
ground  has  fallen  in,  that,  probably,  the  place  of  the  satis  was  of 
much  larger  extent ;  next  year,  most  likely,  those  that  are  now 
tottering  on  the  edge  of  the  cliff  will  fall  into  the  depth  below. 
From  this  place  I  returned  to  the  mandap,  and  sketched  the 
satis  I  had  first  seen.  Their  kalsas  had  figures  upon  them, 
meant  to  represent  the  husband  and  wife ;  I  brought  three  of 
these  ornaments  away, — they  have  received  all  the  honours ; 
their  foreheads  have  been  marked  with  red  paint,  lamps  have  been 
lighted  and  placed  upon  their  points,  and  offerings  have  been  laid 
before  them.  Pretty  well  fagged  with  my  moonlight  expedition, 
I  returned  to  the  boats  and  slept  quietly, — a  great  blessing. 

THE   KALSAS. 

Fig.  1 .  The  two  sir. 

2.  A  kalsa  taken  from  under  an  old  tree  on  the  banks  of  the 
Ganges,  in  front  of  the  temple,  in  the  sketch  of  "  Three  Satis 
and  a  Mandap  near  Ghazipur." 

3.  A  kalsa  from  the  sati  mound  of  the  Kyiatt  at  Barrah. 

4  and  5.  These  kalsas  were  taken  from  the  satI  ground  at 
Ghazipur,  where  there  were  twenty-eight  cenotaphs,  and  which 
was  only  a  short  distance  from  the  three  satis  represented  in  the 
other  plate.  On  both  of  them  are  curious  representations  of  the 
husband  and  wife  sitting  side  by  side. 

6.  This  kalsa  differs  from  the  rest,  being  hollow  at  the  top, 
and  the  upper  part  of  the  dome  of  the  cenotaph  passed  through 


422  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

it ;  on  the  points  of  its  horns,  the  Brahman  said,  Ughts  were 
placed  on  particular  days.  It  was  taken  off  the  top  of  the  sati 
in  the  foreground  of  the  sketch,  over  which  two  lotas  are 
suspended  to  receive  the  offerings  of  the  pious.  Each  of  these 
kalsas  had  four  horns  ;  they  were  much  damaged  by  time,  and 
some  of  the  horns  were  broken  off;  they  were  formed  of  coarse 
red  pottery. 

7.  The  topi-wdld  kalsa  from  Allahabad, — see  Vol.  I.  p.  96. 

8.  The  kalsa  from  a  sati  by  the  temple  of  Bhawani  Alopee 
Bagh,  Allahabad,— Vol.  I.  p.  96. 

9.  The  crescent  and  half-moon  of  the  above  kalsa. 

10.  The  kalsa  without  the  points,  to  show  the  manner  in 
which  it  is  made.  It  is  the  duty  of  the  kumhdrs,  or  potters  of 
the  village,  to  place  new  kalsas  as  the  old  ones  are  broken,  or 
decay,  or  are  taken  away. 

SOth. — Quitted  the  sati  ground,  and  came  up  to  the  Canton- 
ment  ghat  just  below  the  tomb  of  the  Marquis  Cornwallis.  We 
are  now  in  the  north-western  provinces,  in  which  my  husband 
holds  his  appointment  under  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Agra, 
and  have  announced  our  arrival  in  due  form. 

The  Civil  and  Military  station  of  Ghazipur  is  one  hundred 
and  nineteen  miles  above  Dinapur,  or  thirty-one  miles  above 
Buxar  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  The  native  town  is  built 
on  precipices  ;  the  European  inhabitants  reside  on  a  large  plain 
about  the  centre  of  the  station ;  the  cantonments  form  the 
upper  part,  and  the  European  hospital  is  at  the  other  extreme. 
Between  the  Civil  and  Military  lines  are  the  chapel  and  the  tomb. 
It  is  noted  for  its  opium  manufactory,  and  Government  stud  esta- 
blishment, where  horses  can  be  purchased,  as  also  for  its  rose- 
water,  atr  of  roses,  and  other  perfumed  oils.  Provisions  of  all 
sorts  may  be  purchased  here,  also  European  articles  and  miUi- 
nery.  Its  distance  from  Calcutta,  via  Bhagirathi,  is  six  hun- 
*  dred  and  twenty-seven  miles,  vIeI  Sunderbunds  nine  hundred 
and  fifteen,  and  by  land  four  hundred  and  thirty-one.  The 
dak  i-uns  in  four  days — steamer's  passage,  from  seventeen  to 
twenty  days  :  they  remain  here  for  passengers,  cargo,  and  coal. 


THE    STALKING    HORSE.  423 

Passengers  for  Ghoruckpur  should  land  here.  This  is  the 
lower  extreme  of  the  North-Western  Provinces,  or  Agra  Presi- 
dency, and  is  a  great  place  of  trade ;  it  is  also  the  lowest 
station  for  the  Agra  flat-boats.  Kankari  banks,  a  sort  of  stony 
gravel,  commence  here,  and  run  hence  upwards.  At  this  station 
we  purchased  game  ;  a  man  came  to  our  boats,  and  offered  two 
wild  geese  and  three  wild  ducks  for  sale ;  he  carried  a  long 
native  matchlock,  and  led  a  cow  by  a  string ;  this  cow  he  used 
as  a  stalking  horse,  the  birds  being  so  shy  it  would  otherwise 
be  impossible  to  get  within  shot  distance. 

Dec.  \st. — A  good  day,  having  had  but  little  contrary  wind ; 
lugiioed  off  Booraneepur.  On  the  edge  of  the  high  cliff  stood 
a  little  temple  and  a  large  peepul-tree,  very  picturesque,  which 
induced  me  to  climb  the  rough  kankari  bank,  and  to  find  my 
way  to  the  temple  through  a  deserted  village  ;  there  were  a  great 
number  of  ruined  huts,  and  very  few  inhabitants ;  the  village 
dogs  barked  most  fiercely  at  a  distance,  and  skulked  away  at  my 
approach.  This  is  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  and  the  large  peepul-tree 
was  nearly  leafless,  which  showed  off  its  long  and  peculiar 
branches  ;  one  branch,  at  the  height  of  about  eight  feet  from  the 
ground,  stretched  out  in  a  horizontal  direction  to  the  length  of 
sixty  feet :  although  it  is  now  winter  for  the  peepul,  in  three 
weeks  more  it  will  be  covered  with  fresh  green  leaves.  At  the  foot 
of  the  tree  was  a  large  sati  mound  of  mud ;  it  was  so  much 
neglected  that  no  pious  hand  had  placed  even  a  kalsa  on  the 
top,  and  not  a  flower  had  been  offered  there,  nor  a  lamp  burned  in 
puja.  A  little  Hindoo  temple  of  octagonal  form  stood  on  the 
extreme  edge  of  the  clifi",  some  fragments  of  idols  were  placed 
against  its  side ;  no  Brahman  was  there,  and  the  place  looked 
cold  and  desolate  ;  a  young  banyan  tree  formed  the  background, 
and  the  Ganges  spread  its  broad  waters  to  the  far  horizon. 

The  "  Directory"  says, — "  Eight  miles  above  Ghazipur  is  the 
dangerous  kankar  reef  that  strikes  directly  across  the  river. 
Twenty-three  miles  above  Ghazipur  is  Chochookpore  stone 
ghiit  and  temple,  noted  for  the  numerous  monkeys  that  resort 
there.  Two  miles  above  Chochookpore,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river,  is  the  sunken  rock,  opposite  to  a  palm-tree  just  below 


I 


424  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Sanotie."  All  the  difficulties  and  dangers,  monkeys  and  all,  we 
have  passed  to-day,  without  being  conscious  of  their  existence ; 
the  monkeys  and  temples  I  was  sorry  I  did  not  see, — ^we  passed 
without  observing  them.  The  river  has  been  very  uninteresting, 
nothing  to  look  at,  and  very  few  vessels :  moored  on  a  most 
solitary  and  insulated  sandbank. 

"  Thirty  miles  above  Ghazipur  by  Kucharee,  on  the  left  bank,  is 
a  difficult  channel  with  a  dangerous  sunken  reef.  Six  miles  above 
it  is  Seydpur,  a  large  native  town,  with  a  tahsilddr  and  a  ddrogha  : 
and  two  miles  above  Seydpur  is  the  junction  of  the  Goomtie 
river,  that  goes  up  to  Lucnow,  said  to  be  a  very  intricate  and 
rocky  stream,  too  shallow  for  the  smallest  boats  in  the  dry 
season.  The  Ganges,  from  above  Kucharee  reef,  past  Seydpur, 
up  to  the  Goomtie,  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  is  a  very  difficult 
passage,  with  various  bad  patches  of  kankar  rock,  on  which 
native  boats  and  budgerows  split  instantaneously. 

"Five  miles  above  the  Goomtie  is  ChandroutI,  with  a  white 
temple.  Tn  mid-channel  is  a  very  dangerous  pakka  platform,  on 
kankar,  with  the  ruins  of  an  old  temple  on  it,  and  no  passable 
channel  on  its  north-west  or  Zinhore  side,  and  very  dangerous 
for  downward-bound  boats,  as  the  current  sets  directly  upon  it." 
At  Seydpur  is  a  very  elaborately  carved  mandap  or  Hindu 
temple,  of  elegant  form. 

FUNERAL    RITES. BURNING    THE    DEAD. 

As  our  boats  passed  slowly  along,  we  had  an  opportunity  of 
witnessing  the  funeral  rites  of  the  Hindus :  the  burning  of  a 
corpse  was  being  performed  just  at  the  base  of  the  cliff  on  the 
edge  of  the  river.  The  nearest  relative,  as  is  the  custom,  was 
stirring  up  the  body,  and  pushing  it  well  into  the  flames  with  a 
long  pole :  much  oil  and  ghi  nmst  have  been  expended  and 
poured  over  the  wood,  as  it  burnt  fiercely.  The  face  of  the 
corpse  looked  cold  and  pale  and  fixed,  as  the  wind  blew  aside 
the  flames  and  smoke,  and  enabled  me  to  behold  a  scene  that 
shocked  me :  in  all  probability  the  son  was  performing  the 
ceremony.  We  read  of  the  Romans  burning  their  dead,  regard 
it  in  a  classical  light,  and  think  of  it  without  disgust, — but  when 


FUNERAL    RITES — BURNING    THE    DEAD.  425 

you  see  the  ceremony  really  performed  it  is  very  painful :  never- 
theless, a  sort  of  absurdity  was  mixed  with  it  in  my  mind,  as 
"  stir  him  up  with  the  long  pole"  flashed  across  my  memory.  A 
group  of  relatives  were  sitting  by  the  river-side,  watching  the 
ceremony ;  on  its  conclusion  they  will  bathe  and  return  to  their 
homes. 

The  kapati-kriyd,  a  ceremony  among  Hindus,  is,  that  when  a 
dead  body  is  burning,  and  nearly  reduced  to  ashes,  the  nearest 
relation  breaks  the  skull  with  the  stroke  of  a  bamboo,  and  pours 
ghl  (clarified  butter)  into  the  cavity.  Hence  kapdl-kriyd  karna, 
to  think  intensely,  to  beat  or  cudgel  one's  brains. 

The  charpai  on  which  the  corpse  had  been  carried,  being 
reckoned  unclean,  had  been  thrown  into  the  river,  and  the 
broken  lota  that  had  contained  ghl  was  at  its  side.  The  scene 
was  reflected  in  the  Ganges.  From  the  quantity  of  wood  and  ghl 
consumed  the  departed  must  have  been  a  rich  man  :  the  relatives 
of  the  very  poor  scarcely  do  more  than  scorch  the  body,  and 
throw  it  into  the  river,  where  it  floats  swollen  and  scorched — a 
horrible  sight. 

"  The  burning  of  the  body  is  one  of  the  first  ceremonies  the 
Hindus  perform  for  the  help  of  the  dead  in  a  future  state.  If 
this  ceremony  have  not  been  attended  to,  the  rites  for  the  repose 
of  the  soul  cannot  be  performed.  If  a  person  be  unable  to 
provide  wood,  cloth,  clarified  butter,  rice,  water-pans,  and  other 
things,  besides  the  fee  for  the  priest,  he  must  beg  among  his 
neighbours.  If  the  body  be  thrown  into  the  river,  or  burnt, 
without  the  accustomed  ceremonies,  as  is  sometimes  the  case, 
the  ceremonies  may  be  performed  over  an  image  of  the  deceased 
made  of  kooshii  grass.  Immediately  after  death  the  attendants 
lay  out  the  body  on  a  sheet,  placing  two  pieces  of  wood  under 
the  head  and  feet ;  after  which  they  anoint  the  corpse  with 
clarified  butter,  bathe  it  with  the  water  of  the  Ganges,  put  round 
the  loins  a  new  garment,  and  another  over  the  left  shoulder,  and 
then  draw  the  sheet  on  which  the  body  lies  over  the  whole. 
The  heir-at-law  next  bathes  himself,  puts  on  new  garments,  and 
boils  some  rice,  a  ball  of  which  and  a  lighted  brand  he  puts  to 
the  mouth  of  the  deceased,    repeating  incantations.     The  pile 


426  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

having  been  prepared  he  sets  fire  to  it,  and  occasionally  throws 
on  it  clarified  butter  and  other  combustibles.  When  the  body  is 
consumed  he  washes  the  ashes  into  the  river ;  the  attendants 
bathe,  and  presenting  a  drink-offering  to  the  deceased,  return 
home  :  before  they  enter  the  house,  however,  each  one  touches 
fire  and  chews  some  bitter  leaves,  to  signify  that  parting  with 
relations  by  death  is  an  unpleasant  task." 

The  rites  for  the  repose  of  the  soul,  the  offerings  made  in  a 
person's  name  after  his  decease,  and  the  ceremonies  which  take 
place  on  the  occasion,  are  called  his  shraddhu ;  which  the 
Hindus  are  very  anxious  to  perform  in  a  becoming  manner. 
The  son  who  performs  these  rites  obtains  great  merit ;  the 
deceased  is  satisfied,  and  by  gifts  to  the  Brahmans  in  his  name 
he  obtains  heaven. 

The  Hindu  shastriis  teach  that  after  death  the  soul  becomes 
pre'tu,  a  departed  ghost, — namely,  takes  a  body  about  the  size 
of  a  person's  thumb,  and  remains  in  the  custody  of  Yiimii,  the 
judge  of  the  dead.  At  the  time  of  receiving  punishment  the 
body  becomes  enlarged,  and  is  made  capable  of  enduring  sorrow. 
The  performance  of  the  rites  for  the  repose  of  the  soul,  deUvers 
the  deceased  at  the  end  of  a  year  from  this  state,  and  translates 
him  to  the  heaven  of  the  Pitrees,  where  he  enjoys  the  reward  of 
his  meritorious  actions,  and  aftei-wards  in  another  body,  enters 
into  that  state  which  the  nature  of  his  former  actions  assign  to 
him.  If  the  shraddhu  be  not  performed  the  deceased  remains 
in  the  prdtii  state,  and  cannot  enter  another  body. 

There  are  three  shraddhiis  for  the  dead:  one,  eleven  days 
after  the  death ;  another,  every  month ;  and  another,  at  the 
close  of  a  year  after  a  person's  decease.  During  the  ten  days  of 
mourning  the  relatives  hold  a  family  council,  and  consult  on  the 
means  of  performing  the  shraddhii ;  on  the  last  of  these  days, 
after  making  an  offering  for  the  dead  by  the  side  of  the  river, 
they  are  shaved.  On  the  next  day  after  the  performance  of 
•humerous  ceremonies,  and  offerings  made  to  the  priests,  the  son 
goes  into  the  house,  and  placing  a  Brahman  and  his  wife  on  a 
seat,  covers  them  with  ornaments,  worships  them,  and  adding  a 
large  present  of  money,  dismisses  them.     After  this  the  son  of  the 


THK    SHRADDHU — BRAHMANl    BULLS.  427 

deceased  requests  five  Brahmans  to  oiFer  a  male  calf,  in  doing 
which  they  take  two  cloths  each,  four  poitas,  four  betel-nuts, 
and  some  kourees,  and  go  with  the  company  to  a  spot  where  an 
altar  has  been  prepared,  one  cubit  high,  and  four  cubits  square. 
Four  of  the  Brahmans  sit  on  the  four  sides  of  the  altar,  and 
there  worship  certain  gods,  and  offer  a  burnt  sacrifice.  Near  the 
altar  are  placed  the  shalgramti,  four  female  calves,  a  male  calf, 
and  a  vilwu  post.  The  fifth  Brahman  reads  a  portion  of  a 
poorana,  to  drive  away  evil  spirits.  The  female  calves  are  tied 
to  four  vilwii  posts,  and  the  male  calf  to  a  post  called  vrishii 
post.  To  the  necks  of  the  cow-calves  four  small  slender  baskets 
are  suspended,  in  which  are  placed,  among  other  things,  a  comb, 
and  the  iron  instrument  with  which  Hindu  women  blacken  their 
eyelids.  A  sheet  of  metal  is  placed  under  the  belly  of  the  bull- 
calf, — on  the  back  a  sheet  of  copper :  the  hoofs  are  covered 
with  sUver,  and  the  horns  with  gold,  if  the  shraddhii  be  per- 
formed by  a  rich  man.  On  the  hips  of  the  bull-calf  marks  of 
Shivu's  trident  are  impressed  with  a  hot  iron.  After  this  the 
son  of  the  deceased  washes  the  teiil  of  the  bull-calf,  and  with 
the  same  water  presents  a  drink-offering  to  his  deceased 
ancestors :  and  afterwards  marries  the  bull-calf  to  the  four  cow- 
calves,  repeating  many  formulas,  in  which  they  are  recommended 
to  cultivate  love  and  mutual  sympathy.  The  son  next  liberates 
the  cow-calves,  forbidding  any  one  to  detain  them,  or  partake  of 
their  milk  in  future.  In  Hberating  the  male  calf,  he  says,  "  I 
have  given  thee  these  four  wives,  live  with  them !  Thou  art  the 
living  image  of  Yiimu  ;  thou  goest  upon  four  legs.  Devour  not 
the  com  of  others,  &c."  The  cow-calves  are  generally  taken  by 
Brahmans,  the  bull-calf  is  let  loose,  to  go  where  he  pleases : 
these  bulls  wander  about,  and  are  treated  by  the  Hindus  with 
great  respect ;  no  one  can  claim  any  redress  for  the  injury  they 
do,  and  no  Hindu  dare  destroy  them.  The  English  call  them 
"  Brahmani  bulls."  There  are  various  other  rites  too  numerous 
to  detail,  and  the  sums  are  enormous  which  at  times  are  spent 
on  the  shraddhii. 

The  funeral  rites  of  the  Romans  and  those  of  the  Hindus  are 
not  very  dissimilar.     The  Romans  paid  the  greatest  attention  to 


428  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

them,  because  they  beUeved  that  the  souls  of  the  unburied  were 
not  admitted  into  the  abodes  of  the  dead  ;  or  at  least  wandered 
a  hundred  years  along  the  river  Styx,  before  they  were  allowed 
to  cross  it ;    for  which  reason,   if  the  bodies   of  their   friends 
could  not  be  found,  they  erected  to  them  an  empty  tomb  {ceno- 
taphium) ,  at  which  they  performed  the  usual  solemnities  ;  and  to 
want  the  due  rites  was  esteemed  the  greatest  misfortune.     The 
nearest  relation  closed  the  eyes  and  mouth  of  the  deceased,  and 
when  the  eyes  were  closed  they  called  upon  the  decejised  by 
name  several  times  at  intervals :  the  corpse  was  then  laid  on  the 
ground,  bathed,  and  anointed  with  perfumes.     The  body,  dressed 
in  the  best  attire  which  the  deceased  had  worn  when  alive,  was 
laid  on  a  couch  in  the  vestibule,  with  the  feet  outwards ;  the 
couch  was  sometimes  decked  with  leaves  and  flowers.     A  small 
coin   (triens  vel  oholus)   was  put  in  his  mouth,  which  he  might 
give  to  Charon  for  his  freight.     The  Romans  at  first  usually 
interred  their  dead,  which  is  the  most  ancient  and  most  natural 
method.     They  early  adopted  the  custom  of  burning   [cremandi 
vel  comburendi)  from  the  Greeks,  which  is  mentioned  in  the  laws 
of  Numa,   and  of  the  twelve   tables,   but  it   did   not  become 
gener.il  till  towards  the  end  of  the  republic.     Numa  forbade  his 
own  body  to  be  burned,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  Romans, 
but  he  ordered  it  to  be  buried  near  Mount  Janiculum,  with 
many  of  the  books  which  he  had  written.     Sylla  was  the  first 
of  the  Patrician  branch  of  the  gens   Cornelia  that  was  burnt ; 
which  is  supposed  to  have  been  in  accordance  with  his  wishes ; 
for,  having  ordered  the  remains  of  Marius  to  be  taken  out  of  his 
grave,  and  thrown  into  the  river  Anio,  he  was  apprehensive  of 
the  same  insult.     Sylla  died  a.c.  78.     Pliny  ascribes  the  first 
institution  of  burning  among  the  Romans  to  their  having  dis- 
covered that  the  bodies  of  those  who  fell  in  distant  wars  were  dug 
up  by  the  enemy.     Under  the  emperors  it  became  almost  uni- 
versal, but  was  afterwards  gi*adually  dropped  upon  the  introduc- 
tion of  Christianity,  so  that  it  had  fallen  into  disuse  about  the 
end  of  the  fourth  century.     On  the  day  of  the  funeral,  when 
the  people  were  assembled,  the  body  was  carried  out  with  the 
feet  foremost  on  a  couch,  covered  with  rich   cloth,   and   sup- 


FUNERAL    CEREMONIES    OF    THE    ROMANS.  429 

ported  commonly  on  the  shoulders  of  the  nearest  relations  of 
the  deceased  or  of  his  heirs.  Poor  citizens  were  carried  to  the 
funeral  pile  in  a  plain  bier  or  coffin,  usually  by  four  bearers  :  the 
funeral  couches  were  sometimes  open  and  sometimes  covered. 
Torches  were  used  both  at  funerals  and  marriages.  The  funeral 
procession  was  regulated  by  a  person  called  Designator,  attended 
by  lictors,  dressed  in  black,  with  their  fasces  inverted ;  some- 
times, also,  by  the  officers  and  troops,  with  their  spears  pointing 
to  the  ground.  First,  went  musicians  of  various  kinds, — then, 
mourning  women,  hired  to  lament  and  sing  the  funeral  song  ; 
next  came  players  and  buffiDons,  who  danced  and  sang ;  one 
of  them,  called  Archimimus,  supported  the  character  of  the 
deceased,  imitating  his  words  and  actions  while  alive  ;  then 
followed  the  freedmen.  Before  the  corpse  were  carried  images 
of  the  deceased,  and  of  his  ancestors,  on  long  poles  or  frames, 
but  not  of  such  as  had  been  condemned  for  any  heinous  crime, 
whose  images  were  broken.  Behind  the  corpse  walked  the 
friends  of  the  deceased  in  mourning, — his  sons  with  their  heads 
veiled,  and  his  daughters  with  their  heads  bare,  and  their  hair 
dishevelled,  contrary  to  the  ordinary  custom  of  both ;  the 
magistrates  without  their  badges,  the  nobility  without  their 
ornaments.  The  nearest  relations  sometimes  tore  their  gar- 
ments, and  covered  their  hair  with  dust,  or  pulled  it  out ;  the 
women,  in  particular,  who  attended  the  funeral,  beat  their 
breasts  and  tore  their  cheeks,  although  this  was  forbidden  by 
the  twelve  tables.  At  the  funeral  of  an  illustrious  citizen  the 
corpse  was  carried  through  the  forum,  where  the  procession 
stopped,  and  a  funeral  oration  (laudatio)  was  delivered  in  praise 
of  the  deceased  from  the  rostra,  by  his  son,  or  by  some  near 
relation  or  friend.  The  honour  of  a  funeral  oration  was  decreed 
also  to  women,  old  or  young,  married  or  unmarried.  From 
the  forum  the  corpse  was  carried  to  the  place  of  burning  or 
burial,  which  the  law  of  the  twelve  tables  ordered  to  be  without 
the  city, — Hominem  mortuum  in  urbe  ne  sepelito,  neve  urito, — 
according  to  the  customs  of  other  nations ;  the  Jews,  the 
Athenians,  and  others.  The  Romans  prohibited  burning  or 
burying  in  the  city,  both  from  sacred  and  civil  considerations, 


430  WANDERINGS   OF    A    HI.ORIM. 

and  that  the  air  might  not  be  infected.  The  vestal  virgins  were 
buried  in  the  city,  and  some  illustrious  men,  which  right  their 
posterity  retained,  but  did  not  use. 

The  funeral  pile  (rogus  vel  pyra)  was  built  in  the  form  of  an 
altar,  with  four  equal  sides  ;  hence  called  ara  sepulchri,  funeris 
ara,  of  wood  which  might  easily  catch  fire,  as  fir,  pine,  cleft 
oak,  unpolished,  according  to  the  law  of  the  twelve  tables,  rogum 
ascia  ne  polito,  but  not  always  so ;  also  stuffed  with  paper  and 
pitch,  made  higher  or  lower  according  to  the  rank  of  the  deceased 
(hence  rogus  pleheius) ,  with  cypress-trees  set  around  to  prevent  the 
noisome  smell,  and  at  the  distance  of  sixty  feet  from  any  house. 
On  the  funeral  pile  was  placed  the  corpse,  with  the  couch ;  the 
eyes  of  the  deceased  were  opened ;  the  nearest  relations  kissed 
the  body  with  tears,  and  then  set  fire  to  the  pile  with  a  lighted 
torch,  turning  away  their  faces  (aversi)  to  show  that  they  did 
it  with  reluctance.  They  prayed  for  a  wind  to  assist  the  flames, 
as  the  Greeks  did,  and  when  that  happened  it  was  thought 
fortunate.  They  threw  into  the  fire  various  perfumes  (odores), 
incense,  myrrh,  cassia,  &c.  ;  also  cups  of  oil  and  dishes  {dapes 
velfercula),  with  titles  marking  what  they  contained:  likewise 
the  clothes  and  ornaments,  not  only  of  the  deceased,  but  their 
own  ;  every  thing,  in  short,  that  was  supposed  to  be  agreeable  to 
the  deceased  while  alive ;  all  these  were  called  munera  vel  dona. 
If  the  deceased  had  been  a  soldier,  they  threw  on  the  pile  his 
arms,  rewards,  and  spoils.  At  the  funeral  of  an  illustrious  com- 
mander the  soldiers  made  a  circuit  (decurrebant)  three  times 
round  the  pile,  from  right  to  left  {orbe  sinistra),  with  their 
ensigns  inverted,  and  striking  their  weapons  on  one  another  to 
the  sound  of  the  trumpet,  all  present  accompanying  them,  as 
at  the  funeral  of  Sylla,  and  of  Augustus,  which  custom  seems  to 
have  been  borrowed  from  the  Greeks,  was  used  also  by  the  Cartha- 
ginians, and  was  sometimes  repeated  annually  at  the  tomb. 
As  the  manes  were  supposed  to  be  delighted  with  blood,  various 
'  animals,  especially  such  as  the  deceased  had  been  fond  of,  were 
slaughtered  at  the  pile,  and  thrown  into  it ;  in  ancient  times, 
also  men,  captives,  or  slaves,  to  which  Cicero  alludes.  After- 
wards instead  of  them,  gladiators,  called  bustuarii,  were  made  to 


FUNERAL    CEREMONIES    OF    THE    ROMANS.  431 

fight ;  SO  amongst  the  Gauls,  slaves  and  clients  were  burnt  on 
the  piles  of  their  masters ;  among  the  Indians  and  Thracians, 
wives  on  the  piles  of  their  husbands :  thus  also,  among  the 
Romans,  friends  testified  their  affection ;  as  Plotinus  to  his 
patron,  Plautius  to  his  wife  Orestilla,  soldiers  to  Otho,  Mnester, 
a  freed-man,  to  Agrippina. 

Instances  are  recorded  of  persons  who  came  to  life  again  on  the 
funeral  pile  after  it  had  been  set  on  fire,  so  that  it  was  too  late  to 
rescue  them ;  and  of  others,  who  having  revived  before  the  pile 
was  kindled,  returned  home  on  their  feet.  When  the  pile  was 
burnt  down,  the  fire  was  extinguished,  and  the  embers  soaked 
with  wine ;  the  bones  were  gathered  (ossa  legebantur)  by  the 
nearest  relations,  with  loose  robes,  and  sometimes  barefooted. 
We  also  read  of  the  nearest  female  relations  who  were  called 
funerae  velfunere^,  gathering  the  bones  in  their  bosom. 

The  bones  and  ashes,  besprinkled  with  the  richest  perfumes, 
were  put  into  a  vessel  called  urna,  an  urn,  made  of  earth,  brass, 
marble,  silver,  or  gold.  Sometimes,  also,  a  small  glass  vial  full 
of  tears,  called  by  the  moderns  a  lachrymatory,  was  put  in  the 
urn,  and  the  latter  was  solemnly  deposited  in  the  sepulchre. 

When  the  body  was  not  burnt,  it  was  put  into  a  coffin  (area 
vel  loculus)  with  all  its  ornaments,  usually  made  of  stone,  as 
that  of  Numa,  so  of  Hannibal ;  sometimes  of  Assian  stone,  fi-om 
Assos,  or  -us,  a  town  in  Troas  or  Mysia,  which  consumed  the 
body  in  forty  days,  except  the  teeth,  hence  called  sarcophagus, 
which  word  is  also  put  for  any  coflSn  or  tomb.  The  coffin  was 
laid  in  the  tomb  on  its  back  ;  in  what  direction  among  the 
Romans  is  uncertain ;  but  among  the  Athenians,  looking  to  the 
west.  When  the  remains  of  the  deceased  were  laid  in  the  tomb, 
those  present  were  three  times  sprinkled  by  a  priest  with  pure 
water  [aqua  pura  vel  lustralis),  from  a  branch  of  olive  or 
laurel  [aspergillum) ,  to  purify  them.  Then  they  were  dismissed 
by  the  preefica,  or  some  other  person,  pronouncing  the  solemn 
word  ilicet,  i.e.  ire  licet,  you  may  depart.  At  their  departure, 
they  used  to  take  a  last  farewell,  by  repeating  several  times  vale, 
or  salve  (Eternum ;  adding,  nos  te  ordine,  quo  natura  permiserit, 
cuncti  sequemur.     The  friends,  when  they  returned   home,  as  a 


432  WANDERINGS    OP   A    PILGRIM. 

further  purification,  after  being  sprinkled  with  water,  stepped 
over  a  fire  (ignem  super grediebantur),  which  was  called  suffitio. 
The  house  itself  was  also  purified,  and  swept  with  a  certain  kind 
of  broom.  There  were  certain  ceremonies  for  the  purification 
of  the  family,  when  they  buried  a  thumb,  or  some  part  cut  off 
from  the  body  before  it  was  burnt,  or  a  bone  brought  home  from 
the  funeral  pile,  on  which  occasion  a  soldier  might  be  absent 
from  duty.  On  the  ninth  day  after  the  funeral,  a  sacrifice  was 
performed,  called  novendiale,  with  which  these  solemnities  were 
concluded. 

Oblations  or  sacrifices  to  the  dead  {inferia,  vel  parentalia,) 
were  afterwards  made  at  various  times,  both  occasionally  and  at 
stated  periods,  consisting  of  liquors,  victims,  and  garlands ; 
these  oblations  were  to  appease  ; — to  revenge,  an  atonement  was 
made  to,  their  ghosts. 

The  sepulchre  was  then  bespread  with  flowers,  and  covered 
with  crowns  and  fillets :  before  it,  there  was  a  little  altar,  on 
which  libations  were  made,  and  incense  burnt,  and  a  keeper  was 
appointed  to  watch  the  tomb,  which  was  frequently  illuminated 
with  lamps.  A  feast  was  added,  called  silicernium,  both  for  the 
dead  and  the  living.  Certain  things  were  laid  on  the  tomb, 
commonly  beans,  lettuces,  bread,  and  eggs,  or  the  like,  which  it 
was  supposed  the  ghosts  would  come  and  eat ;  hence  coena 
feralis ;  what  remained  was  burnt ;  for  it  was  thought  mean  to 
take  away  any  thing  thus  consecrated,  or  what  was  thrown  into 
the  funeral  pile.  The  Romans  commonly  built  tombs  for  them- 
selves during  their  lifetime  ;  if  they  did  not  live  to  finish  them, 
it  was  done  by  their  heirs,  who  were  often  ordered  by  the  testa- 
ment to  build  a  tomb.  The  highest  honours  were  decreed  to 
illustrious  persons  after  death.  The  Romans  worshipped  their 
founder  Romulus  as  a  god,  under  the  name  of  Quirinus. 
Hence  afterwards  the  solenm  consecration  of  the  emperors,  by 
a  decree  of  the  senate,  who  were  thus  said  to  be  ranked  in 
the  number  of  the  gods,  also  of  some  empresses  :  temples  and 
priests  were  assigned  to  them — they  were  invoked  with  prayers — 
men  swore  by  their  name  or  genius,  and  offered  victims  on  their 
altars. 


RAJ    GHAT,    BENARES.  433 

The  entrance  to  the  Goomtie  river  is  very  narrow,  and  a 
bridge  of  sixteen  boats  is  placed  across  it.  At  Chandrouti  is  a 
white  temple  much  carved — ^the  platform  in  the  centre  of  the 
stream  stands  out  about  two  feet  high — a  bamboo  was  stuck 
upon  it,  and  several  birds  were  perched  on  the  stones.  The 
ruins  of  the  temple  must  have  fallen  into  the  river  I  suppose,  as 
no  ruins  are  there,  only  a  very  few  stones : — this  is  to  be 
lamented.  It  must  have  been  very  picturesque,  and  it  also  must 
have  pointed  out  the  dangerous  spot  to  vessels.  The  navigation 
is  perplexing,  but  we  came  through  it  without  any  mischance, 
and,  after  a  great  deal  of  annoyance,  anchored  at  10  p.m.  off  a 
village  ;  our  time  to  lugao  the  boats  has  usually  been  four  hours 
earlier.  The  Hindus,  who  have  had  no  dinner  to-day,  must  be 
sick  and  weary ;  we  could  not  get  to  the  bank,  on  account  of 
the  shallowness  of  the  water  until  this  hour.  The  Musalman 
crew  of  the  budgerow  cook  and  eat  on  board  ;  the  crews  of  the 
woolak  and  cook-boat,  being  Hindus,  cook  and  eat  on  the  river- 
side, that  they  may  not  defile  the  sacred  Gunga. 

If  you  lugao  near  a  village  the  chaukidars  come  down  and 
guard  your  boats ;  if  you  anchor  on  a  sandbank  you  guard 
your  own  boats,  and  are  generally  distant  from  robbers  ;  never- 
theless, care  is  required  through  the  night,  and  a  watch  should 
be  set  on  each  vessel  during  the  dark  hours. 

Five  mUes  above  Chandrouti  is  BuUooah  ghat  and  ferry  on 
the  right  bank, — the  banks  are  formed  of  kankar  rock.  Exactly 
opposite  the  ferry,  the  budgerow  struck  on  a  sunken  bank,  which 
was  very  deep  in  the  water ;  we  were  detained  upwards  of  two 
hours  ere  she  could  be  got  oflf ;  the  rudder  was  unshipped  by 
the  manjhi,  and  after  great  labour  we  were  once  again  afloat, 
without  having  sustained  much  damage.  The  river  is  very 
shallow,  and  to  find  the  deep  stream  is  difficult  in  a  budgerow. 

"  Fifty  miles  above  Ghazipur,  or  eight  above  BuUooah  ghat, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  is  Kye,  and  its  sunken  kankar 
reef — scarcely  avoidable  in  some  dry  seasons.  Thence  due  west 
over  the  right  bank  you  may  observe  the  Benares  minarets — 
distant  nine  miles."  A  Uttle  wind  aided  us,  and  we  lugaoed  at 
6  P.M.  at  Riij  ghat,  Benares.     A  number  of  temples  and  tombs, 

VOL.  II.  F  f 


434  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

with  the  minarets  beyond,  looked  well  in  the  distance  as  we 
approached ;  but  the  smoke  of  the  evening  fires  on  the  bank, 
and  the  red  glare  of  the  setting  sun,  rendered  all  objects  indis- 
tinct. I  walked  to  see  a  tomb  on  the  top  of  the  high  cliff  a 
little  below  Raj  ghat ;  it  is  enclosed  by  stone  walls  in  a  garden, 
and  is  a  handsome  monument ;  many  tombs  are  on  the  outside 
by  the  ravine.  It  is  a  very  picturesque  spot.  Thus  closed  the 
evening  at  Raj  ghat. 


CHAPTER   LXVII. 


SKETCHES  ON  THE  GANGES  FROM  BENARES  TO  BINDACHUN. 

"  AT  BnNARUS  TOU  SHOULD  BE  ON  YOUR  GUARD  AGAINST  THE  WOMEN,  THE 
SACRED  BULLS,  THE  STAIRS,  AND  THE  DEVOTEES  '." 

Benefits  arising  from  a  Residence  in  the  Holy  City  of  Kashi — Kalii-Bhoiruvu — 
The  Snake-Charmers — Gigantic  Image  of  Hunooman — BrahmanI  Bulls— The 
Ghats  from  the  River — Bhim  Singh — TulsT  Altars — Ruins  of  the  Ghat  of  the 
ex-Queen  of  Gwalior — A  Corpse — Young  Idolaters— State  Prisoners — The 
City — Sultanpur — Chunar — Picturesque  Tree  near  the  Ghat — Singular  Cere- 
monies— The  Deasil— TumbuU  Gunge — Mirzapur — Beautiful  Ghats  and 
Temples — Carpet  Manufactory — Bindachun. 

1844,  Dec.  5th. — A  friend  accompanied  me  this  morning  to  view 
Benares,  or,  as  it  is  more  correctly  called,  Bunarus :  nothing 
pleases  me  more  than  driving  about  this  city, — the  streets,  the 
houses,  and  the  people  are  so  well  worth  seeing.  "  A  httle  to  eat, 
and  to  live  at  Bunarus,"  is  the  wish  of  a  pious  Hindu  ;  but  a 
residence  at  this  place  is  rather  dangerous  to  any  one  inclined  to 
violate  the  laws,  as  the  following  extract  will  testify  : — "  Kalii- 
Bhoiruvu  is  a  naked  Shivii,  smeared  with  ashes ;  having  three 
eyes,  riding  on  a  dog,  and  holding  in  one  hand  a  horn,  and  in 
another  a  drum.  In  several  places  in  Bengal  this  image  is 
worshipped  daily.  Shivii,  under  this  name,  is  the  regent  of 
Kashi  (Bunarus) .  All  persons  dying  at  Benares  are  entitled  to 
a  place  in  Shivu's  heaven ;  but  if  any  one  violate  the  laws  of 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  138. 
F  f  2 


436  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILORIM. 

the  shastru  during  his  residence  there,  Kaiu-Bhoiriivii  at  death 
grinds  him  betwixt  two  mill-stones."    f 

THE    SNAKE-CHARMERS. 

6th. — Some  of  these  people  came  down  to  the  river-side,  and 
displayed  their  snakes  before  the  budgerow  ;  they  had  two  boa 
constrictors,  one  of  which  was  of  enormous  size ;  the  owner 
twined  it  about  his  neck  after  the  fashion  in  which  a  lady  wears 
her  sable  boa;  the  other,  which  was  on  the  ground,  glided 
onwards,  and  the  man  pulled  it  back,  as  it  appeared  to  be 
inclined  to  escape  into  the  water.  They  had  a  number  of  the 
cobra  di  capello,  twenty  or  more,  which,  being  placed  on  the 
ground,  reared  themselves  up,  and,  spreading  out  their  hoods, 
swayed  themselves  about  in  a  fashion  which  the  men  called 
dancing,  accompanied  by  the  noise  of  a  little  hand-drum.  The 
snake-charmers  struck  the  reptiles  with  their  hands,  and  the 
snakes  bit  them  repeatedly  on  their  hands,  as  well  as  on  their 
arms,  bringing  the  blood  at  each  bite ;  although  the  venomous 
fangs  have  been  carefully  removed,  the  bite  itself  must  be  disa- 
greeable ;  nevertheless,  the  natives  appear  not  to  mind  it  in  the 
least.  There  was  no  trick  in  the  case ;  I  saw  a  cobra  bite  his 
keeper  five  or  six  times  on  his  hand  and  arm,  the  man  was 
irritating  it  on  purpose,  and  only  desisted  when  he  found  I  was 
satisfied  that  there  was  no  deception.  At  the  conclusion  of 
the  exhibition  they  caught  the  cobras,  and  crammed  them  all 
into  ghards  (earthen  vessels)  ;  the  boas  were  carried  off  in  a 
basket. 

In  the  evening  I  walked  to  a  dhrumsala  or  alms-house  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  a  little  above  Raj  ghat ;  it  is  situated  on  the 
top  of  a  high  flight  of  steps,  and  is  very  picturesque.  On  the 
steps  of  the  stone  ghat  below  is  a  gigantic  image  of  Hunooman, 
made  of  mud,  and  painted  according  to  the  most  approved 
fashion.  The  natives  were  very  civil,  showing  me  the  way  to 
different  places,  and  yet  the  Benares  people  have  a  bud  nam  (bad 
name)  in  that  respect,  being  reckoned  uncivil  to  strangers. 

On  the  steps  of  the  ghat  I  met  a  very  savage  Brahmani  bull ; 
the  beast  was  snorting  and  attacking  the  people, — he  ran  at  me, 


THE  GHATS  FROM  THE  RIVER.  437 

but  some  men  drove  him  off;  there  were  numbers  of  them  in 
the  bazar,  but  this  was  the  only  savage  one  I  encountered ;  the 
rest  were  going  quietly  from  gram-stall  to  gram-stall,  apparently 
eating  as  much  as  they  pleased.  The  merchants  would  be  afraid 
to  drive  the  holy  bulls  away  with  violence. 

7th. — Quitted  Raj  ghat  early,  and  tracked  slowly  past 
Benares,  stopping  eveiy  now  and  then  to  take  a  sketch  of  those 
beautiful  ghats.  The  minars  rear  their  slender  forms  over  the 
city,  and  it  is  not  until  you  attempt  to  sketch  them  that  their 
height  is  so  apparent,  and  then  you  gaze  in  astonishment  at 
them,  marvelling  at  the  skill  that  has  reared  structures  of  such 
height  and  elegance,  and  at  the  honesty  of  the  workmen,  who 
have  given  such  permanent  cement  to  the  stones. 

A  little  farther  on  is  a  cluster  of  Hindu  temples  of  extreme 
beauty  and  most  elaborate  workmanship,  with  a  fine  ghiit  close 
to  them  ;  one  of  these  temples  has  been  undermined  by  the 
river,  and  has  fallen — but  not  to  the  ground ;  it  still  hangs  over 
the  stream, — a  most  curious  sight.  How  many  temples  the 
Ganges  has  engulphed  I  know  not ;  some  six  or  seven  are  now 
either  deeply  sunk  in,  or  close  to  the  water,  and  the  next  rains 
will  probably  swell  the  river,  and  undermine  two  or  three  more. 
A  fine  ghat  at  the  side  of  these  has  fallen  in  likewise. 

Above  this  cluster  of  falling  temples  is  a  very  beautiful  ghat, 
built  of  white  stone, — I  know  not  its  name  ;  but  I  sketched  it 
from  the  boats.  It  is  still  uninjured  by  time,  and  is  remarkable 
for  the  beauty  of  its  turrets,  over  the  lower  part  of  which  a 
palm-tree  throws  its  graceful  branches  in  the  most  picturesque 
manner.  On  the  top  of  a  small  ghat,  just  higher  than  the 
river,  at  the  bottom  of  a  long  flight  of  steps,  two  natives  were 
sitting,  shaded  from  the  sun  by  a  large  chatr ;  groups  of  people 
in  the  water  were  bathing  and  performing  their  devotions, — 
many  were  passing  up  and  down  the  flight  of  stone  steps,-^ 
whilst  others,  from  the  arched  gallery  above,  were  hanging 
garments  of  various  and  brilliant  colours  to  dry  in  the  sun.  On 
the  outside  of  some  of  the  openings  in  the  bastions  straw  mats 
were  fixed  to  screen  off  the  heat. 

Just  above  this  fine  structure,  on  a  small  ghat,  a  little  beyond 


i 


438  WANDERINGS    OI'    A    PILGRIM. 

the  minarets,  is  a  gigantic  figure  in  black  stone  of  Bhim  Singh, 
a  deified  giant,  of  whom  it  is  recorded  that  he  built  the  fortress 
of  Chunar  in  one  day,  and  rendered  it  impregnable.  The  giant 
is  represented  lying  at  full  length  on  his  back,  his  head,  adorned 
with  a  sort  of  crown,  is  supported  on  raised  masonry ;  at  his 
right  side  is  erected  a  small  altar  of  mud,  of  conical  form, 
bearing  on  its  top  a  tulsl  plant ;  the  natives  water  these  plants,  and 
take  the  greatest  care  of  them.  The  tulsl  had  formerly  the  same 
estimation  amongst  the  Hindus,  that  the  misletoe  had  amongst  the 
ancient  Britons,  and  was  always  worn  in  battle  as  a  charm  ;  on 
which  account  a  warrior  would  bind  a  mala  of  tulsl  beads  on  his 
person.  The  scene  was  particularly  picturesque ;  below  the  ghat, 
on  which  reposed  the  gigantic  hero,  were  some  native  boats ; 
and  near  them  was  a  man  dipping  a  piece  of  cloth  embroidered 
in  crimson  and  gold  into  the  water ;  while,  with  a  brilliant  light 
and  shade,  the  whole  was  reflected  in  the  Ganges. 

A  little  distance  beyond  I  observed  a  number  of  small  ghats 
rising  from  the  river,  on  each  of  which  a  similar  conical  tulsl 
altar  was  erected,  and  generally,  at  the  side  of  each,  the  flag  of 
a  fakir  was  displayed  from  the  end  of  a  long  thin  bamboo.  A 
man  who  appeared  to  be  a  mendicant  fakir,  came  down  to  the 
river-side,  carrying  in  one  hand  a  long  pole,  and  in  the  other 
one  joint  of  a  thick  bamboo,  which  formed  a  vessel  for  holding 
water,  and  from  this  he  poured  some  of  the  holy  stream  of  the 
Ganges  on  the  little  shrub  goddess  the  tulsl. 

In  the  midst  of  hundreds  and  hundreds  of  temples  and  ghats, 
piled  one  above  another  on  the  high  clifi^,  or  rising  out  of  the 
Ganges,  the  mind  is  perfectly  bewildered ;  it  turns  from  beauty 
to  beauty,  anxious  to  preserve  the  memory  of  each,  and  the 
amateur  throws  down  the  pencil  in  despair.  Each  ghat  is  a 
study;  the  intricate  architecture,  the  elaborate  workmanship, 
the  elegance  and  lightness  of  form, — an  artist  could  not  select 
a  finer  subject  for  a  pictiue  than  one  of  these  ghats.  How  soon 
Benares,  or  rather  the  glory  of  Benares — its  picturesque  beauty — 
will  be  no  more  !  Since  I  passed  down  the  river  in  1836  many 
temples  and  ghats  have  sunk,  undermined  by  the  rapid  stream. 

The  Baiza  Bii'i's  beautiful  ghiit  has  fallen  into  the  river, — 


A  CORPSE YOUNG  IDOLATERS.  439 

perhaps  from  its  having  been  undermined,  perhaps  from  bad 
cement  having  been  used.  Her  Highness  spared  no  expense  ; 
probably  the  masons  were  dishonest,  and  that  fine  structure, 
which  cost  her  fifteen  lakh  to  rear  a  Uttle  above  the  river,  is 
now  a  complete  ruin. 

The  ghat  of  Appa  Sahib  is  still  in  beauty,  and  a  very  curious 
one  at  the  further  end  of  Benares,  dedicated  to  Mahadeo,  is  still 
uninjured  ;  a  number  of  images  of  bulls  carved  in  stone  are  on 
the  parapet  of  the  temple,  and  forms  of  Mahadeo  are  beneath, 
at  the  foot  of  the  bastions. 

We  loitered  in  the  budgerow  for  above  six  hours  amongst  the 
ghats,  which  stretch,  I  should  imagine,  about  three  miles  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  Ganges. 

At  the  side  of  one  of  the  ghats  on  the  edge  of  the  river  sat  a 
woman  weeping  and  lamenting  very  loudly  over  the  pile  of  wood 
within  which  the  corpse  of  some  relative  had  been  laid  ;  the 
friends  were  near,  and  the  pile  ready  to  be  fired.  I  met  a  corpse 
yesterday  in  the  city,  borne  on  a  flat  board  ;  the  body  and  the 
face  were  covered  closely  with  bright  rose-coloured  muslin,  which 
was  drawn  so  tightly  over  the  face  that  its  form  and  features 
were  distinct ;  and  on  the  face  was  sprinkled  red  powder  and 
silver  dust ;  perhaps  the  dust  was  the  pounded  talc,  which  looks 
like  silver. 

How  soon  the  young  Hindus  begin  to  comprehend  idolatry  ! 
A  group  of  children  from  four  to  seven  years  old  were  at  play  ; 
they  had  formed  with  mud  on  the  ground  an  image  of  Hunooman, 
after  the  fashion  of  those  they  had  seen  on  the  river-side ;  and 
they  had  made  imitations  of  the  sweetmeat  {pera)  in  balls  of 
mud,  to  offer  to  their  puny  idol. 

I  was  at  Benares  eight  years  ago  (in  November,  1836)  ;  the 
river  since  that  time  has  undermined  the  ghiits,  and  has  done  so 
much  damage,  that,  in  another  ten  years,  if  the  Ganges  encroach 
at  an  equal  rate,  but  little  will  remain  of  the  glory  of  the  most 
holy  of  the  Hindu  cities.  The  force  of  the  stream  now  sets 
full  upon  the  most  beautiful  cluster  of  the  temples  on  its  banks  ; 
some  have  been  engulphed,  some  are  faUing,  and  all  will  fall 
ere  long  ;  and  of  the  Baiza  Ba'i's  ghat,  which  was  so  beautiful 


440  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

when  last  I  visited  the  place,  nothing  now  reradns  but  the  ruins ! 
Her  Highness  objected  gi'eatly  to  the  desire  of  the  Government, 
to  force  her  to  live  in  this  holy  city :  poor  lady !  her  destiny  exem- 
plifies the  following  saying, — "  He  who  was  hurt  by  the  bel 
(its  large  fruit  falUng  on  his  head)  went  for  refuge  to  the  babul, 
(the  prickles  of  which  wounded  his  feet,)  and  he  that  was  hurt 
by  the  babul  fled  to  the  bel\" 

The  Rajah  of  Sattara  resides  a  state  prisoner  at  Bunarus. 

A  buggy  is  to  be  hired  at  Secrole  for  four  rupees  eight  aniis  a 
day,  which  is  preferable  to  a  palanquin  :  in  visiting  the  city  the 
better  way  is  to  quit  your  buggy,  and  proceed  in  a  tilnjan,  if  you 
wish  to  see  the  curious  and  ancient  buildings  to  advantage. 

I  am  so  much  fagged  with  the  excitement  of  the  day,  gazing 
and  gazing  again,  that  I  can  write  no  more,  and  will  finish  this 
account  with  an  extract  from  the  "Directory."  "  Benares  on 
the  left  bank  is  considered  as  the  most  holy  city  in  India,  and  is 
certainly  one  of  the  most  handsome  when  viewed  at  a  distance 
on  the  river,  there  being  such  numerous  stone  ghats  and 
temples,  some  of  which  cost  seventeen  liikh  of  rupees.  It  is 
the  residence  of  some  native  princes,  pensioners  of  the  Hon. 
East  India  Company,  but  their  dwellings  are  divided  into  so 
many  little  chambers  or  pigeon-holes,  that  the  internal  part  of 
the  city  has  the  appearance  of  a  mass  of  mean  buildings,  piled 
up  without  any  regard  to  order  and  appearance,  and  narrow 
filthy  lanes  instead  of  streets. 

"  There  is  a  large  enclosed  mart,  called  a  chauk,  which  opens 
at  5  P.M.,  where  trinkets,  toys,  birds,  cloth,  and  coarse  hardware 
are  exposed  for  sale.  It  has  a  large  well  in  it,  and  is  also  a 
resort  for  native  auctions.  Close  to  the  chauk  is  the  principal 
alley  or  mart  for  gulbadan,  a  very  fine  silk  of  various  patterns 
worn  by  natives  as  trowsers  ;  also  fine  caps  with  tinselled  crowns, 
and  very  elegant  gold  and  silver  embroidery ;  also  scarfs  and 
turbans,  and  pieces  for  fancy  head-dresses.  There  is  likewise  a 
traveller's  chauk,  or  native  inn,  and  a  large  horse  mart,  where 
very  fine  horses,  of  the  Turki,  Persian,  and  Cabul  breeds  are 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  139.  ' 


BENARES — THE    CITY.  441 

procurable, — as  high  as  eight,  ten,  or  fifteen  thousand  rupees, 
— that  are  brought  here  by  the  fruit-carriers,  who  bring  grapes 
and  pears  from  those  countries.  Here  are  several  miniature 
painters,  and  cdso  venders  of  miniatures  on  ivory,  said  to  be 
likenesses  of  different  native  princes,  their  queens,  and  nach 
girls  ;  and  also  true  likenesses  of  native  servants  in  costume, 
tradesmen,  and  beggars.  Delhi  jewellery  of  the  best  gold  is 
brought  on  board  the  steamers  by  sending  for  the  dealers. 
Here  is  also  an  old  observatory,  and  two  very  high  and  slender 
minarets,  one  of  which  has  a  slight  inclination ;  travellers 
ascending  them  are  expected  to  give  to  the  keeper  the  fee  of  a 
rupee.  From  their  tops  is  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  the  adjacent 
country,  and  the  river, — so  gratifying  a  sight  should  not  be  passed 
over  by  any  traveller.  Provisions  are  procurable ;  partridges, 
quail,  and  wild  ducks  of  all  sorts,  are  to  be  obtained.  Steamers 
remain  at  Riij  ghat  to  take  in  passengers,  to  discharge  and  take 
in  packages,  and  to  receive  coals.  The  civil  and  military  station 
is  about  four  mUes  inland,  direct  from  Raj  ghat,  where  reside 
the  commissioner,  the  judge,  the  magistrates,  the  collectors,  the 
general,  and  all  the  officers  of  the  native  regiments  quartered 
here,  and  some  European  artillery. 

"  Letters  must  be  sent  for  to  the  post-office,  as  they  are  not 
forwarded,  which  is  very  inconvenient.  The  city  is  about  two 
miles  long :  the  natives  are  very  uncivil  to  strangers.  Numerous 
fanatics  are  here,  who  drown  themselves,  believing  that  the 
holy  Ganga  and  the  city  of  the  most  holy  secures  them  eternal 
happiness.  Benares  is  from  Calcutta,  via  Bhagirathi,  696  miles  ; 
via  Sunderbands,  984 ;  and  by  land  or  dak,  428.  Letters 
take  four  days,  banjhis  seven  days.  Palanquins  axe  procurable 
here,  but  they  are  infested  with  vile  vermin." 

So  much  for  the  "  Directory,"  from  which  I  differ.  So  far 
from  the  distant  view  of  the  city  giving  you  the  best  idea  of  it, 
— it  is  not  until  you  are  in  the  midst  of  and  close  to  the  various 
and  beautiful  ghats  and  temples  just  beyond  the  miniirs  that  you 
can  have  an  idea  of  the  beauty  of  Benares.  The  best  convey- 
ance in  which  to  visit  and  sketch  the  ghats  is  a  small  boat  with 
an  awning. 


442  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

We  passed  the  residence  of  the  Raja  of  Benares  at  Raranagar, 
one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  city ;  it  is  a  handsome  native 
palace. 

8th. — Passed  Chhota  Kalkata,  or  Sultanpur-Benares :  it  is  a 
native  cavalry  station,  seventeen  miles  above  Benares  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  river.  Steamers  bring  to  here  occasionally,  for  a 
few  minutes,  to  land  passengers.  It  has  a  kankarl  or  rocky 
point,  that  is  very  awkward  for  native  boats, — as  also  for 
steamers,  owing  to  a  narrow  channel  and  strong  currents ;  the 
point  is  off  the  cavalry  stables,  which  are  called  Little  Calcutta. 

On  our  arrival  at  Chunar  we  moored  the  boats  at  the  request 
of  the  sarhang,  as  the  dandts  wished  to  go  on  shore  to  buy  and 
sell  in  the  bazar ;  they  carry  on  a  regular  traffic  at  all  the 
stations  up  the  river,  and  gain  a  heavy  profit  on  their  Calcutta 
lanterns,  pankhas,  bundles  of  cane,  cheeses,  pickles,  and 
a  variety  of  articles.  Chunar  is  famous  for  its  tobacco, 
and  the  men  were  anxious  to  lay  in  a  stock  for  sale  at  other 
places. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  landing-place,  and  to  the  left  of 
it,  is  a  fine  peepul-tree  (Ficus  religiosa) ,  at  the  foot  of  which  are 
a  number  of  idols  in  stone,  placed  in  an  erect  position,  supported 
by  the  trunk.  A  native  woman  placed  some  flowers  upon  the 
idols,  and  poured  Ganges  water  over  them  from  an  earthen 
vessel  (a  ghard) ,  which  she  carried  on  her  head.  Another  was 
performing  a  religious  and  superstitious  ceremony,  called  pra- 
dakshina, — that  is,  she  was  walking  a  certain  number  of  times 
round  and  round  the  peepul-tree,  with  the  right  hand  towards 
it,  as  a  token  of  respect,  with  appropriate  abstraction  and 
prayers,  in  the  hope  of  beautiful  offspring.  For  this  reason, 
also,  the  Ficus  indica  is  subject  to  circumambulation.  The  same 
ceremony  is  mentioned  in  the  "  Chronicles  of  the  Canongate :" 
the  old  sibyl,  Muhme,  says  to  Robin  Oig,  "  So  let  me  walk  the 
deasil  round  you,  that  you  may  go  safe  into  the  far  foreign  land, 
and  come  safe  home."  "  She  traced  around  him,  with  wavering 
steps,  the  propitiation,  which  some  have  thought  has  been 
derived  from  the  Druidical  mythology.  It  consists,  as  is  well 
known,  in  the  person  who  makes  the  deasil  Wcdking  three  times 


THE    FORT    OF    CHUNAR.  443 

round  the  person  who  is  the  object  of  the  ceremony,  taking 
care  to  move  according  to  the  course  of  the  sun."  Near  the 
peepul-tree  was  an  Hindu  temple  built  of  stone,  but  most 
excessively  disfigured  by  having  been  painted  red ;  and  next 
to  it  was  a  smaller  one  of  white  stone.  The  whole  formed  a 
most  picturesque  subject  for  the  pencil.  Thence  I  proceeded 
to  the  Fort  of  Chunar,  and  walked  on  the  ramparts :  the  little 
churchyard  below  was  as  tranquil  as  ever,  but  the  tombs  having 
become  dark  and  old,  the  beauty  of  the  scene  was  greatly 
diminished.  The  Ganges  is  undermining  even  the  rock  on 
which  the  fortress  is  built.  The  birds'-nests,  formed  of  mud, 
built  under  the  projections  of  the  black  rock  on  which  it  stands, 
are  curious  ;  and  on  some  parts  of  the  rock,  just  above  the 
river,  small  Hindu  images  are  carved.  The  "  Directory"  gives 
the  following  account  of  the  place  : — "  On  the  right  bank,  about 
four  miles  above  Sultanpur,  is  Chunar,  an  invalid  station,  with  a 
fortification,  on  an  isolated  rocky  hill,  which  projects  into  the 
river,  forming  a  very  nasty  point  to  pass  in  the  rains.  It  com- 
pletely commands  the  river,  and  is  used  as  a  place  of  confine- 
ment for  state  prisoners.  There  are  several  detached  rocky 
hills  or  stone  quarries  here.  It  is  a  very  sickly  place,  owing  to 
the  heat  arising  from  the  stone,  which  causes  fever  and  disease  of 
the  spleen.  This  is  a  great  place  for  snakes.  A  little  above  the 
fort  is  a  temple :  tradition  states  it  to  contain  a  chest,  which 
cannot  be  opened  unless  the  party  opening  it  lose  his  hand, — four 
thieves  having  so  suffered  once  in  an  attempt  upon  it.  Very  fine 
black  and  red  earthenware  may  be  purchased  here, — such  as  wine 
coolers,  which,  being  filled  with  water  after  the  bottle  is  inserted, 
and  set  out  in  the  draft  of  the  hot  easterly  winds  (none  other 
serves  the  purpose),  in  the  shade,  cools  the  confined  liquor  as 
much  as  iceing  it :  the  cooler  must  be  dried  daily.  Also,  red 
sandy  water-holders  or  suries,  which  keep  water  very  cool ;  black 
butter  pots,  with  a  casing  for  water,  very  neatly  finished ;  and 
large  black  double  urns,  to  contain  bread,  and  keep  it  moist. 
Steamers  seldom  stop  here  more  than  ten  minutes." 

The  Padshah  Begam,  the  Queen  of  Ghazee-ood-Deen  Hydur, 
and  Moonajah,  are  in  this  fortress  state  prisoners. 


444  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Moored  our  vessels  off  TurnbuU  Gunge.  Of  all  the  native 
villages  I  have  seen  this  is  the  most  healthy-looking ;  it  consists 
of  one  very  long  broad  road  or  street,  with  houses  on  each  side, 
built  after  the  native  fashion,  but  on  a  regular  plan ;  and  on 
each  side  the  road  a  line  of  fine  trees  shade  the  people  as  they 
sit  selling  their  goods  in  the  verandahs  of  their  houses. 

The  Gunge  was  built  by  a  Mr.  TurnbuU,  a  medical  man,  who 
made  a  large  fortune  in  India  when  medical  men  were  allowed 
to  trade ;  the  place  bears  his  name,  and  is  situated  about  two 
miles  higher  up  the  river  than  Chunar. 

9th. — A  little  beyond  TurnbuU  Gunge  is  a  white  mandap 
(temple) ,  on  the  right  bank ;  the  top  of  the  spire  has  been 
broken  off,  and  it  stands  by  a  fine  peepul-tree.  Just  in  front  of 
it  a  bank  of  hard  red  mud  runs  out  into  the  river ;  the  bud- 
gerow  ran  upon  it  with  such  violence  that  many  things  in  the 
cabin  were  upset ;  after  this  little  fright  we  proceeded  very  well. 
The  dandls  were  particularly  miserable  on  account  of  the  rain ; 
almost  every  man  had  clothed  himself  in  a  red  jacket ;  for  these 
cast-off  military  jackets  they  had  given  a  rupee  apiece  ;  they  were 
very  proud  of  them,  and  afraid  of  getting  them  wetted.  They 
wore  below  the  usual  native  dhoti — i.e.  a  piece  of  linen,  in  heu 
of  trowsers,  above  which  the  European  red  coat  had  a  curious 
effect.  Anchored  on  a  very  fine  sandbank  in  the  midst  of  the 
river ;  here  we  found  a  chaukidar  under  a  straw  thatch,  ready 
for  vessels. 

lOth. — "  Seven  miles  above  Chunar,  on  the  right  bank,  is  the 
village  of  Kutnac,  with  rocky  bottom  and  hard  lumps  of  earth 
in  the  river ;  a  little  above  is  a  ravine,  which  is  to  be  avoided  by 
all  boats." 

"  Fourteen  miles  above  Chunar  is  the  crossing  ferry  of  the 
Benares  grand  road,  and  of  Kitwa  and  Bhundoolee  to  Mirzapur ; 
thence  to  the  latter  place  is  a  fine  road,  distance  seven  miles 
and  a  half  by  land,  and  sixteen  by  water." 

"  Ten  miles  above  the  ferry,  and  seven  below  Mirzapur,  on 
the  left  bank,  is  Bhajoan,  with  a  white  tomb  and  a  patch  of 
kankar  in  the  river,  on  which  many  boats  are  lost :  hence  the 
cantonments  of  Mirzapiir  are  visible. 


MIRZAPUR.  445 

"  Mirzapur,  a  military  cantonment,  is  two  miles  below  the 
city  and  the  civil  station :  the  judge's,  the  magistrates',  and 
the  collector's  offices  are  one  mile  below  the  city.  The  steamer 
stops  at  the  agency  ghat  at  the  lower  end  of  the  city.  This 
place  is  noted  for  a  cotton  mart  and  cotton  manufactory  ;  as  like- 
wise for  shell  lac,  lac  dye,  and  hardware  in  a  small  way.  Many 
boats  are  here  at  all  seasons.  The  city  is  very  confined,  du-ty, 
and  subject  to  great  sickness  :  there  are  two  or  three  very  fine 
stone  ghats  here,  and  some  small  temples  and  minarets  :  bread, 
butter,  eggs,  mutton.  Iamb,  kid,  veal,  and  fowls,  are  procurable. 
Mirzapur  is  from  Calcutta,  via  Bhagirathi,  748  miles ;  vi^ 
Sunderbands,  1036  miles ;  and  by  dak  route,  455.  The  dak 
takes  five  days,  and  banjhi  eight  days  to  run.  Steamers  having 
plenty  of  cargo  to  land  are  generally  detained  here  four  or  five 
hours." 

The  river  has  given  us  some  trouble  to-day,  and  we  have 
grounded  many  times.  The  white  houses  of  the  Mirzapur 
cantonments  stretch  along  the  right  bank  on  a  very  high  clifi"; 
the  church,  a  very  elegant  building,  was  planned  by  Colonel 
Edward  Smith, — the  spire  rises  just  above  the  ghat  of  the  civil 
station.  The  manjhl  of  our  vessel  wished  to  anchor  there,  but 
we  pushed  on  to  the  city,  and  lugaoed  on  the  other  side  the 
river,  close  to  a  fine  house,  the  residence  of  the  Raja  of  Ram- 
nager.  We  did  not  like  to  anchor  at  the  stone  ghat  of  the 
city,  on  account  of  the  noise,  smoke,  and  heat  produced  by  a 
crowd  of  native  boats :  this  will  be  pleasant :  I  can  be  up  top 
df/ghl  (gun-fire)  to-morrow  morning,  and  sketch  the  ghats.  In 
the  mean  time  the  sandbank  by  which  we  are  moored  is  cool, 
pleasant,  and  quiet.     Now  for  English  letters  ! 

llth. — ^We  found  we  ought  to  have  stopped  at  the  ghat  off 
Cantonments,  as  there  bread,  butter,  meat,  &c.,  could  be  pro- 
cured ;  but  what  cared  I  for  such  creature  comforts  when  I  saw 
the  ghats  in  the  early  morning  ?  We  crossed  the  river,  and  I 
went  out  to  sketch  them.  There  are  two  fine  ones,  built  of 
stone,  that  lie  close  together,  and  a  number  of  temples  are  upon 
them, — placed  at  intervals  upon  the  cliflT,  from  the  river  to  the 
top  of  the  high  bank,  and  very  beautiful  they  are. 


L 


446  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

The  first  sketch  comprehended  the  ghilts  that  rise  out  of  the 
river ;  on  their  steps  of  stone,  multitudes  of  people,  in  the  gay 
attire  of  the  East,  were  ascending  and  descending  for  puja  and 
bathing,  and  to  bring  water  up  for  domestic  purposes  ;  the  scene 
was  particularly  animated.  On  the  steps  of  the  ghat  was  a 
large  awning,  formed  of  mats,  and  supported  by  bamboos,  under 
which  the  natives  were  sitting  and  conversing,  while  it  screened 
them  from  the  sun.  Upon  the  river-side  were  several  square 
platforms  erected  on  four  bamboos,  with  great  stones  beneath  to 
support  them  ;  and  on  the  top  of  the  poles  were  large  jhdmps — 
that  is,  mats  of  straw,  which  protected  the  people  sitting  inside 
from  the  rays  of  the  sun  ;  these  platforms  were  used  as  booths, 
and  in  them  sweetmeats  were  displayed  for  sale.  Half-way  up 
the  cliff  were  three  small  temples,  with  fine  trees  in  the  back- 
ground, in  front  of  which  stretched  the  high  bank  along  the 
side  of  the  Ganges. 

The  second  sketch  of  the  same  ghat  was  taken  half-way  up 
the  cliff;  on  the  right  are  the  three  small  temples  above  alluded 
to,  which  form  part  of  a  group  of  singular  beauty  and  varied 
form.  A  large  shiwala  or  temple  dedicated  to  Mahadeo  is  next 
to  them,  and  a  smaller,  separated  only  by  an  archway,  adjoins  it ; 
on  the  portico  of  the  latter  a  fakir's  staff  and  flag  were  erected. 
The  branches  of  fine  trees  were  in  the  back-ground,  the  cliffs 
were  abrupt,  and  the  vessels  on  the  Ganges  were  in  the  distance. 
In  front  of  the  doorway  of  the  larger  temple  the  holy  bull,  (the 
vehicle  of  Mahadeo,)  was  ccuchant  on  a  small  ghat  erected  for 
the  purpose. 

The  third  sketch  was  taken  from  the  top  of  the  cliff  looking 
up  the  river  :  it  consists  of  a  large  shiwala  or  temple  of  Mahadeo, 
with  a  second  in  front  which  forms  a  portico,  beneath  which 
Nandi  the  holy  bull  reposes  couchant ;  to  the  side  is  the  spire  of 
a  temple  that  rises  from  below.  The  Ganges  adds  to  the  beauty 
of  the  scene,  and  some  branches  of  large  trees  in  the  back- 
ground adorn  the  temple.  No  mandap  have  I  ever  seen  so  elabo- 
rately carved  or  so  beautiful ;  from  the  basement  to  the  pinnacle 
it  is  a  mass  of  intricate  sculpture,  united  with  great  elegance  of 
design.     It  is  covered  with  images  of  the  gods,  carved  in  stone. 


CARPET    MANUFACTORY.  447 

A  little  kid,  which  had  just  been  offered  to  the  idol,  was  frisking 
about  the  temple,  unconscious  of  how  soon  he  would  be  served 
up  as  a  feast  for  the  Brahmans.  Kid  is  eaten  by  Hindus  at 
particular  times,  and  the  priests  consider  the  offerings  as  holy 
food. 

There  is  another  handsome  stone  ghat  a  little  further  up  the 
river,  with  nine  temples  upon  it ;  and  many  are  the  picturesque 
spots  along  the  banks  of  the  Ganges.  Mirzapur  is  famous  for 
its  manufactory  of  carpets,  which  are  often  sent  to  England  ;  and 
large  vessels  in  hundreds  were  off  the  city.  We  proceeded  on 
our  voyage,  and  lugaoed  at  Bindachun. 


CHAPTER   LXVIII. 


SKETCHES  ON  THE  RIVER  FROM   BINDACHUN  TO 
ALLAHABAD. 


IF    YOU    BELIEVE,    IT    IS    A    OOP;    IF    NOT,   PLASTER   DETACHED  FROM  A  WALL*." 


Bindachun — Devi  Ghat — The  Temple  of  Bhawanl — Bhagwan — The  Thugs — 
The  Hajjam— The  Tashma-baz  Thugs — The  Pleasure  of  Wandering — 
Sirsa — Munyah  Ghat — Arail — Arrival  at  Allahabad  — Native  Sugar-cane 
Mills. 

1844,  Dec.  llth. — We  lugaoed  early  in  the  evening  four  miles 
above  MirzapQr  at  the  far-famed  Bindachun.  The  first  remark- 
able object  on  approaching  the  place  is  the  ghiit  of  the  Devi 
(goddess)  which  stands  out  into  the  river ;  it  is  adorned  with 
six  bastions,  which  present  a  very  fort-like  appearance,  and 
just  above  it  we  moored  our  boats.  Taking  an  old  bearer  with 
me,  whilst  our  people  were  preparing  their  evening  meal,  I 
hastened  up  to  see  the  famous  temple  of  Bhawanl,  the  place  of 
resort  of  the  Thugs,  where  they  meet  and  take  the  vows.  I 
ascended  the  steps  of  the  ghat  of  which  there  are  about  eighty, 
and  very  steep ;  from  their  summit  you  enter  the  bazar.  This 
is  a  most  curious  place,  and  it  is  so  narrow  it  can  scarcely  be 
called  a  street,  being  not  more  than  six  feet  in  the  widest  part, 
and  in  many  places  the  breadth  does  not  exceed  three  or  four. 
It  is  lined  on  both  sides  with  native  shops,  as  thick  as  possible, 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  140. 


THE    TEMPLE    OF    BHAWANI.  449 

and  paved  throughout  with  flag-stones.  The  people  from  the 
shops  called  out  to  me,  "Will  you  not  buy  a  garland  for  the 
goddess,  or  a  tdgah?"  "Will  you  not  buy  sweetmeats  for 
the  shrine?"  Garlands  of  fresh  flowers  were  in  profusion  for 
sale. 

THE    TEMPLE    OF    BHAWANI. 

I  encountered  a  man  who  happened  to  be  an  hajjdm,  a 
cupper  and  scarifier.  Now,  in  all  Eastern  stories  a  personage  of 
this  description  appears  to  be  a  necessary  appendage,  and  mine, 
who  was  also  a  barber  and  an  Hindu,  offered  to  show  me  the 
way  to  the  temple  of  the  Devi.  The  road,  which  is  straight 
through  the  narrow  paved  alley  of  the  bazar,  must  be  half  a 
mile  or  more  in  length  :  in  time  we  arrived  at  the  temple  ;  three 
flags  were  flying  from  an  old  peepul-tree,  and  the  noise  of  the 
bells  which  the  Brahmans  were  tinkling  for  worship  told  of  the 
abode  of  the  goddess.  The  temple,  which  is  built  of  stone,  is 
of  rectangular  form,  surrounded  by  a  verandah,  the  whole 
encompassed  by  a  flight  of  five  steps.  The  roof  is  flat,  and  the 
pillars  that  support  it  of  plain  and  coarse  workmanship.  On 
the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Hindu  holy  of  holies.  The 
Brahmans  begged  me  to  take  oflF  my  shoes,  and  said  I  might 
then  enter  and  see  the  face  of  the  goddess.  I  thought  of  the 
Thugs,  and  my  curiosity  induced  me  to  leave  my  shoes  at  the 
door,  and  to  advance  about  three  yards  into  the  little  dark 
chamber.  The  place  was  in  size  so  small,  that  when  six  people 
were  in  it,  it  appeared  quite  full ;  the  walls  were  of  large  coarse 
stones.  The  worshippers  were  turned  out  of  the  apartment, 
and  they  gave  me  a  full  view  of  the  Devi,  the  great  goddess, 
the  renowned  Bhagwiin ! 

The  head  of  the  figure  is  of  black  stone  with  large  eyes,  the 
whites  of  which  are  formed  of  plates  of  burnished  silver  :  these 
glaring  eyes  attract  the  admiration  of  the  Hindus  : — "  Look  at 
her  eyes  ! "  said  one.  Thrown  over  the  top  of  her  head, 
strings  of  white  jasmine  flowers  (the  double  sweet-scented 
churapa)  took  the  place  of  hair,  and  hung  down  to  the  shoul- 
ders. If  you  were  to  cut  a  woman  off' just  at  the  knees,  spread 
a  red  sheet  over  her,  as  if  she  were  going  to  be  shaved,  hiding 

VOL.  II.  G  g 


450  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

her  arms  entirely  with  it,  but  allowing  her  feet  to  be  seen  at  the 
bottom,  making  the  figure  nearly  square — you  would  have  the 
form  of  the  goddess.  The  two  Uttle  black  feet  rested  on  a  black 
rat,  at  least  they  called  it  so,  and  a  small  emblem  of  Mahadeo 
stood  at  the  side.  Six  or  eight  long  chaplets  of  freshly-gathered 
flowers  hung  from  her  neck  to  her  feet  festooned  in  gradation, — 
they  were  formed  of  the  blossoms  of  the  marigold,  the  chumpa,  or 
white  jasmine,  and  the  bright  red  pomegranate.  The  figure 
stood  upon  a  square  slab  of  black  stone.  It  was  about  four 
feet  in  height,  and  looked  more  like  a  child's  toy  than  a  redoubt- 
able goddess.  The  Brahman  or  the  Thug,  whichever  he  might  be, 
(for  at  this  shrine  all  castes  worship,)  took  a  white  flower,  and 
gave  it  to  me  as  a  present  for  the  goddess,  at  the  same  time 
requesting  a  rupee  as  an  offering  at  the  shrine.  I  had  no  money, 
but  the  old  bearer  had  five  paisa  (about  one  penny  three  far- 
things), which  he  gave  to  the  Brahman,  who  said,  "This  is  not 
enough  to  buy  a  sweetmeat  for  the  goddess  !  "     I  made  answer, 

"  I  give  thee  all,  I  have  no  more, 
Though  poor  the  offering  be." 

The  man  saw  it  was  the  truth,  and  was  satisfied.  The  old 
bearer  then  requested  me  to  hold  my  sketch-book  for  a  few 
moments  whilst  he  went  in  and  put  up  a  prayer :  this  I  did, 
and  the  old  man  returned  very  quickly,  much  pleased  at  having 
seen  the  Devi. 

I  sketched  the  goddess  when  before  the  shrine,  the  Brahman 
holding  the  lamp  for  me.  Over  her  head  was  suspended  from 
the  ceihng  an  ornament  of  white  flowers,  and  a  lamp  like  that 
in  the  robber's  cave  in  "  Gil  Bias"  was  also  hanging  from  the 
roof.  There  was  also  a  lamp  on  the  black  slab,  which  had  the 
appearance  of  a  Roman  lamp.  Ornaments  worn  on  the  wrists 
of  Hindu  women,  called  kangan,  formed  of  a  small  hank  of  red, 
or  rather  flame-coloured  cotton,  intermixed  with  yellow,  were 
offered  to  the  Devi :  the  Brahmans  put  them  on  her  shoulders, 
as  arms  she  had  none.  Why  and  wherefore  the  kangan  is 
offered,  I  know  not.  Before  a  sati  ascends  the  funeral-pile, 
some  red  cotton  is  tied  on  both  wrists.     This  may,  probably, 


■  e^^-^^^•:,.^^.-^:rr.v':-?^  -  ■:^1---.-':'^^: 


^-^Sketched  in  the  Temple 


BHA&WAN. 


BHAGWAN.  45 1 

account  for  the  kangan  offered  to  Bhagwan,  the  patroness  of 
satis. 

I  thought  of  the  Thugs,  but  mentioned  not  the  name  in  the 
temple  ;  it  is  not  wise  "  to  dwell  in  the  river  and  be  at  enmity 
with  the  crocodile'."  In  the  verandah  of  the  temple  were  two 
massive  bells  of  a  metal  looking  like  bronze. 

I  can  fancy  terror  acting  on  the  Hindoos  when  worshipping 
the  great  black  hideous  idol,  Kali  Ma,  at  Kali-ghat,  near  Calcutta ; 
but  this  poor  stump  of  a  woman,  with  quiet  features,  staring 
eyes  of  silver,  and  little  black  feet,  inspires  no  terror : — and  yet 
she  is  Bhagwan — the  dreaded  Bhagwan  ! 

The  temple  was  crowded  by  men  and  women  coming  and 
going,  as  fast  as  possible,  in  great  numbers.  The  month  of 
Aghar  is  the  time  of  the  annual  meeting ;  it  begins  Novem- 
ber 15th,  and  ends  the  13th  of  December  ;  therefore  Bindachun 
must  be  full  of  rascals  and  Thugs  at  this  present  time,  who 
have  come  here  to  arrange  their  religious  murders,  and  to  make 
vows  and  puja. 

This  visit  to  Bindachun  interested  me  extremely ;  the  style  of 
the  temple  surprised  me ;  it  is  unlike  any  of  the  Hindoo 
places  of  worship  I  have  seen,  and  must  be  of  very  ancient 
date.  The  pillars  are  of  a  single  stone  without  ornament,  rough 
and  rude.  Some  of  the  shops  in  the  bazar,  like  the  one  on  the 
right  where  sweetmeats  are  sold,  are  of  curious  architecture ; 
stone  is  used  for  all  the  buildings,  quarries  being  abundant  in 
this  part  of  the  country. 

The  people  crowded  around  me  whilst  I  was  sketching  the 
exterior  of  the  temple,  but  were  all  extremely  civil :  the  Brah- 
mans  and  beggars  clamoured  for  palsa  (copper  coins),  but  were 
civil  nevertheless.  It  is  a  disreputable  neighbourhood  :  I  hope 
they  will  not  rob  the  boats  to-night,  as  all  the  rascals  and  mur- 
derers in  India  flock  to  this  temple  at  the  time  of  the  annual  fair, 
which  is  now  being  held.  Having  made  my  salam  to  the  great 
goddess,  I  was  guided  by  the  barber  to  another  idol,  which  he 
said  was  worshipped  by  very  few  people.    It  was  a  female  figure, 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  141. 
Gg2 


452  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

very  well  executed  in  stone,  with  four  or  five  figures  around  it, 
carved  on  the  same  block.  I  was  much  inclined  to  carry  it  off; 
it  is  one  of  the  handsomest  pieces  of  Hindu  sculpture  I  have 
seen.  A  few  flowers  were  lying  withered  before  it  in  the  hovel 
where  it  stood,  placed  there,  it  may  be,  by  the  piety  of  the 
barber.  Even  my  husband  was  induced  to  climb  the  steps  of 
the  ghat,  and  to  walk  through  the  bazar  to  the  temple,  but  he 
did  not  enter  it.  A  number  of  idols  were  under  a  peepul-tree  in 
the  bazar  ;  they  were  a  great  temptation,  but  in  this  high  place 
of  superstition  it  might  be  dangerous  to  carry  off  a  god. 

This  wandering  life  is  very  delightful ;  I  shall  never  again  be 
content  "  to  sit  in  a  parlour  sewing  a  seam,"  which  the  old 
song  gives  forth  as  the  height  of  feminine  felicity !  Much  sooner 
would  I  grope  through  a  dark  alley  idol  hunting — Apropos,  by 
the  idols  under  the  peepul-tree  was  a  sati  mound,  broken  and 
deserted,  not  even  a  kalsa  was  there  to  claim  the  passing 
salam  of  the  Hindii,  nor  a  flower  to  mark  the  spot :  perhaps 
the  great  goddess  draws  off"  the  worshippers  from  the  deified 
mortal,  although  all  satis  are  peculiarly  under  her  protection. 

THE    TASHMA-BAZ    THUGS. 

"  Thuggee  and  Meypunnaism  are  no  sooner  suppressed  than 
a  new  system  of  secret  assassination  and  robbery  is  discovered, 
proving  the  truth  of  Colonel  Sleeman's  remark,  that  '  India  is 
a  strange  land ;  and  live  in  it  as  long  as  we  may,  and  mix  with 
its  people  as  much  as  we  please,  we  shall  to  the  last  be  con- 
stantly liable  to  stumble  upon  new  moral  phenomena  to  excite 
our  special  wonder.'  As  anticipated,  at  least  one  set  of  new 
actors  have  to  be  introduced  to  the  public,  and  these  are  the 
Tashma-baz  Thugs. 

"The  Thugs  formerly  discovered  went  forth  on  their  mur- 
derous expeditions  under  the  protection  of  a  goddess ;  the 
.  Tashmabazes  have  for  their  genius  a  European  !  Who  in  Eng- 
land would  be  prepared  to  credit  that  the  thimble-riggers  of 
EngUsh  fairs  have  in  India  given  rise  to  an  association  that,  in 
the  towns,  bazars,  and  highways  of  these  provinces,  employs 
the  game  of  stick  and  garter  as  the  lure  for  victims  destined  to 


THE    TASHMA-BAZ    THUGS.  453 

be  robbed  or  murdered?  Yet  this  is  the  simple  fact.  The 
British  had  hardly  gained  possession  of  this  territory  before  the 
seeds  of  the  flourishing  system  of  iniquity,  brought  to  light 
almost  half  a  century  afterwards,  were  sowed  in  1802  by  a 
private  soldier  in  one  of  his  majesty's  regiments  stationed  at 
Cawnpore.  The  name  of  this  man  was  Creagh.  He  initiated 
several  natives  into  the  mysteries  of  the  stick  and  garter,  and 
these  afterwards  appeared  as  the  leaders  of  as  many  gangs,  who 
traversed  the  country,  gambling  with  whomsoever  they  could 
entrap  to  try  their  luck  at  this  game.  It  consists  of  rolling  up  a 
doubled  strap,  the  player  putting  a  stick  between  any  two  of  its 
convolutions,  and  when  the  ends  of  the  strap  are  pulled,  it 
unrolls,  and  either  comes  away  altogether,  or  is  held  at  the 
double  by  the  stick,  and  this  decides  whether  the  player  loses  or 
wins.  A  game  requiring  apparently  no  peculiar  skill,  and 
played  by  parties  cleverly  acting  their  parts  as  strangers  to  each 
other, — being  even  dressed  in  character, — readily  tempted  any 
greedy  simpleton  to  try  his  luck,  and  show  his  cash.  If  he  lost, 
he  might  go  about  his  business ;  if  he  won,  he  was  induced  to 
remain  with  the  gamblers,  or  was  followed,  and  as  opportunity 
offered  was  either  stupified  with  poisonous  drugs,  or  by  any 
convenient  method  murdered.  Many  corpses  found  from  time 
to  time  along  the  vicinity  of  the  Grand  Trunk  road,  without  any 
trace  of  the  assassins,  are  now  believed  to  have  been  the  remains 
of  the  Tashraabazes'  victims  ;  and  distinct  information  has  been 
obtained  from  their  own  members  of  murders  committed  by 
them.  The  merest  trifle,  it  seems,  was  sufficient  inducement  to 
them  to  commit  the  crime,  there  being  one  case  of  three  poor 
grass-cutters  murdered  by  those  miscreants  in  a  jungle,  merely 
for  the  sake  of  their  trifling  personal  property.  Indeed,  these 
gangs  seem  to  have  been  of  a  more  hardened  character  than  any 
other  yet  discovered,  for  their  sole  aim  was  gain,  however  it 
might  be  secured,  without  the  plea  of  rehgious  motive  which 
regulated  the  proceedings  of  the  other  fraternities.  Parties  of 
them  used  to  visit  all  the  chief  towns  and  stations  of  the 
Doab  and  its  neighbourhood,  and  established  themselves  in  the 
thoroughfares  leading  to  the  principal  cities.     Under  the  guise 


454  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

of  gamblers,  they  were  often  brought  to  the  notice  of  the 
authorities,  and  subjected  to  the  trifling  punishments  due  to 
minor  oiFences  ;  but  this  was  the  very  thing  that  lulled  sus- 
picion as  to  their  real  character.  They  were  constantly  in  the 
power  of  many  dangerous  acquaintances  ;  but  these  were  bribed 
to  silence  out  of  their  abundant  spoils.  The  pohce  almost  every 
where  seem  to  have  been  bought  over.  In  the  city  of  GwaUor, 
the  kotwal  got  one-fourth  of  their  profits ;  and  in  the  British 
territory,  five  rupees  a  day  have  been  paid  as  hush-money  to 
the  neighbouring  thannah.  Amongst  their  friends  was  the  mess 
khansaman  of  a  regiment  at  Meerut,  the  brother  of  one  of  their 
chiefs,  and  an  accomplice.  Gold  and  silver  coin,  and  ornaments 
of  pearl  and  coral,  formed  part  of  the  remittances  that  used  to 
be  sent  to  their  head-quarters  at  Cawnpore.  Indeed,  they  seem 
to  have  earned  on  a  very  safe  and  lucrative  business,  until  the 
magistrates  of  Boolundshuhr  and  Cawnpore  pounced  upon  them 
in  the  beginning  of  this  year.  Mr.  Montgomery  followed  up 
their  apprehension  by  a  full  report  to  Government,  when  the 
matter  was  taken  up  by  the  Thuggee  Department,  the  sifting 
machinery  of  which,  in  the  hands  of  Major  Graham,  soon 
brought  to  light  all  the  facts  necessary  to  establish  that  the 
gang  formed  a  hitherto  unknown  class  of  Thugs." — Agra 
Messenger,  Dec.  2,  1848. 

1 2th. — One  mile  above  Bindachun  are  the  dangerous  granite 
rocks  of  Seebpur.  After  a  very  quiet  day  and  very  little  diffi- 
culty, we  anchored  off  the  village  of  Bhoghwa,  where  we  were 
informed  by  the  chaukidar,  that  turkeys,  fowls,  and  birds  were 
abundant. 

The  exertion  of  yesterday  quite  fagged  me ;  I  was  up  and 
sketching  from  six  in  the  morning  to  eleven  a.m.,  at  Mirzapiir,  and 
again  in  the  evening  at  the  temple  of  Bhawiinl, — a  day  of  over- 
fatigue, but  a  very  agreeable  one.  How  I  love  this  roaming  life 
on  the  river,  with  the  power  of  stopping  at  any  picturesque 
spot ! — Even  tracking  against  the  stream  is  most  delightful  to 
one  who,  like  Dr.  Syntax,  is  in  search  of  the  picturesque.  My 
husband  objects  to  accompanying  me  through  the  bazars,  because 


THE    PLEASURE    OF   WANDERING.  455 

such  a  crowd  collect  after  me ; — he  goes  along  quietly,  but  with 
me  it  is  different : — the  moment  I  stop  to  sketch,  a  crowd 
collects,  and  the  attendants  are  obliged  to  drive  them  off  to 
enable  me  to  see  the  object.  I  have  a  great  sympathy  for  Dr. 
Syntax,  and  perfectly  comprehend  the  dehght  he  took  even  in 
a  picturesque  horsepond.  India  would  have  driven  him  wild  ; — 
it  is  the  country  of  the  picturesque.  How  I  love  this  life  in  the 
wilderness !  I  shall  never  be  content  to  vegetate  in  England  in 
some  quiet  country  place. 

"  Oh !  it  settles  the  spirits,  when  nothing  is  seen 
But  a  pig  on  a  common,  a  goose  on  a  green." 

\3th. — After  an  uninteresting  passage  with  monotonous 
scenery,  we  moored  off  Poorooa,  a  village  on  the  left  bank. 
Wild  ducks,  geese,  and  Brahmani  ducks  are  numerous  on  the 
river-side  :  it  is  very  cold,  so  much  so  that  T  shall  be  glad  to 
retire  to  rest  to  keep  myself  warm. 

I4th. — No  wind — a  warmer  day,  and  no  difficulty  on  the  river. 
Anchored  at  a  basti  (village)  about  three  miles  below  Sirsya. 
The  Directory  says,  "  Twenty-eight  miles  above  Mirzapur,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  is  Suttamaree.  Passengers  generally 
land  in  the  cold  season,  and  have  a  walk  across  the  neck  of 
land  in  a  w.n.w.  direction,  two  miles  wide  to  Taila,  and  rejoin 
the  steamer  off  that  place,  she  having  to  go  a  detour  of  twenty- 
one  miles  round  the  point.  Two  miles  above  Suttamaree  is 
Deega-kunkur  Spit,  with  a  deep  bight. 

"  Letchyagurree  and  its  ravine  on  the  left  bank  of  the  fiver 
is  twenty-two  miles  above  Deega,  noted  for  its  robbers,  when 
it  was  attached  to  the  Oude  territories." 

We  have  now  arrived  within  a  very  short  distance  of  Alla- 
habad ;  I  shall  be  quite  sorry  to  end  my  voyage,  and  feel  the 
greatest  reluctance  to  returning  into  society. 

I5th. — "  Sirsya  is  a  large  cotton  mart  on  the  right  bank  ;  it  is 
sixty  miles  above  Mirzapiir  and  twenty-three  miles  below 
Allahabad,  to  which  place  there  is  a  good  road.  There  are 
several  pakka  (brick)  houses  here,  and  two  very  fine  tanks  at  the 
back  of  it,  and  an  old  mud  fort ;  thence  to  Frag,  the  river  is  very 


456  WANDERINGS   OF    A   PILGRIM. 

intricate  and  shallow.     Iron  work  in  a  small  way  can  be  done 
for  boats  at  this  place.     Turkeys  and  guinea-fowls  abound." 

We  passed  Sirsya  early,  and  found  that  the  Queen's  40th  regi- 
ment had  just  quitted  the  place.  No  fowls  or  provisions  were  to 
be  had, — the  40th,  like  a  flight  of  locusts,  had  devoured  every 
thing  around  the  spot  on  which  they  descended ;  some  hilsa 
fish  alone  were  to  be  procured,  and  most  deUcious  they  proved, 
— not  only  when  fresh,  but  also  when  cured  with  tamarinds  and 
vinegar.  There  is  a  house,  some  temples,  and  a  peepul-tree  on 
the  cliff",  that  would  make  a  good  sketch,  if  taken  looking  up 
the  river  a  little  below  the  spot.  In  consequence  of  the 
shallowness  of  the  stream  we  have  had  much  trouble  all  day,  and 
were  unable  to  lugao  until  half-past  seven  p.m. — cold  and 
misty. 

16^^. — Arrived  at  Munyah  ghat,  on  the  right  bank,  at  noon, 
— eight  miles  from  Prag.  The  river  is  so  intricate,  and  the 
navigation  so  difficult,  we  shall  be  a  length  of  time  going  those 
eight  miles. 

The  "Directory"  says, — "Allahabad  is  eighty-three  miles 
above  Mirzapur ;  its  fort  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Ganges  and 
Jumna.  The  steamers  put  up  at  the  Jama  Masjid,  half  a  mile 
inside  the  Jumna.  The  native  miUtary  cantonments,  and  the 
place  where  most  of  the  civilians  and  officers  live,  are  from 
three  to  four  miles  inland.  State  prisoners  are  kept  here  in  the 
fort.  There  is  also  a  large  stone  pillar,  said  to  have  been 
erected  by  Alexander  the  Great  to  mark  his  conquests.  This 
is  the  seat  of  the  Sadr  DewanI,  or  principal  court  of  justice ;  it 
was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Presidency.  Bread,  butter,  eggs, 
beef,  mutton,  lamb,  kids,  fowls,  pigeons,  turkeys,  guinea-fowl, 
quail,  partridge,  teal,  wild  ducks,  and  wild  geese,  are  procurable 
here :  Europe  shops  are  at  the  station,  and  auctions  are  held. 
About  two  miles  from  the  ghat  is  the  chauk  or  market,  where 
all  sorts  of  cloth,  European  and  native,  are  procurable.  Shawl- 
men  board  the  steamers,  if  sent  for,  with  every  kind  of  Cashmere 
shawl,  waistcoating,  caps,  gloves,  socks,  and  Afghanistan 
woollen  cloths :  as  also  Delhi  jewellers,  and  manufacturers  of 
cotton   carpeting,   of  various  colours,    showy  on  rooms,   and 


b 
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■j: 


X 


NATIVE    SUGAR   MILLS.  457 

rather  durable.  A  little  beyond  the  chauk  is  the  native  sara'e, 
where  beautiful  horses  are  at  times  to  be  purchased,  of  the 
Persian,  Cabul,  and  TurkI  breeds.  You  must  send  for  your 
letters  to  the  post-office. 

"  The  distance  from  Calcutta,  via  BhagirathI,  is  831  miles  ;  via 
Sunderbands,  1186  ;  and  by  dak  route,  504  miles. 

"  Steamer's  regulated  distance  is  800  miles.  Steamers  remain 
here  three  entire  days,  when  they  depart  on  their  return,  taking 
passengers  and  cargo.  Apply  to  the  agent  there,  or  to  the 
commander,  for  passage  downwards." 

In  1 844  the  Sadr  Board  of  Revenue  and  the  Criminal  and 
Civil  Court,  or  Sadr  Dewani,  were  removed  to  Agra. 

At  half-past  one,  p.m.,  we  caught  the  first  sight  of  the  fort 
and  the  telegraph.  The  flags  were  flying  at  the  junction  of  the 
rivers,  and  the  road  from  the  sands  over  the  Mahratta  Band  was 
plainly  visible.  Near  Arail,  just  below  the  ferry,  the  river  is 
intricate ;  and  the  passage  being  difficult,  we  lugaoed  off  the 
ferry. 

17th. — The  Fort  of  Allahabad  had  an  imposing  appearance 
fi-om  the  river,  and  as  we  approached  nearer  we  observed  the 
flags  flying  at  the  bathing-place  in  great  numbers,  although  the 
fair  was  not  set.  It  was  delightful  once  again  to  see  old  Priig, 
the  Jama  Masjid,  the  old  well,  surmounted  by  the  temple — so 
like  that  of  the  Sibyl,  where  dwells  the  Gossein, — the  shrine 
of  Mahiideo  a  little  above  it,  our  old  friend's  bungalow  beyond, 
and  the  fine  peepul-tree  on  the  high  bank  of  the  Jumna,  that 
almost  hides  the  house  and  chabutara,  where  we  had  passed  so 
many  years.  Our  old  acquaintances  are  flocking  down  to  welcome 
our  return  :  we  are  once  more  at  Allahabad,  once  more  lugaoed 
in  the  blue  waters  of  the  Jumna,  off  the  steamer  ghat. 

NATIVE    SUGAR   MILLS. 

The  following  account  of  the  sugar  mills,  given  me  by  Major 
Parlby,  will  elucidate  the  annexed  sketch,  which  was  taken  by 
him  on  the  spot. 

"  As  the  sugar-cane  is  usually  cultivated  all  over  India,  and 
the  produce  of  its  juice,  in  some  form  or  other,  is  universally 


458  WANDERINGS  OF   A    PILGRIM. 

used,  and  constitutes  a  valuable  article  of  export  from  India 
when  converted  into  sugar,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to 
describe  the  construction  and  use  of  the  patriarchal  and  simple 
form  of  mill  represented  in  the  drawing,  which  is  at  the  village 
of  Belaspore,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ganges,  near  Mirzapore, 
about  thirty  miles  below  Allahabad. 

"It  is  supposed  that  sugar  has  been  known  and  used  in 
India  and  China  from  the  eai'Uest  ages  ;  and  historians  say  that 
it  was  not  introduced  into  the  western  world  until  after  the 
conquest  of  Alexander  the  Great.  This  construction  of  mill  is 
common  in  many  parts  of  India ;  and,  rude  and  simple  as  it 
is,  it  is  found  to  succeed  in  expressing  the  juice  from  the  sugar- 
cane more  perfectly  than  the  rude  cylinder  mills  which  are  used 
in  other  places.  The  villagers  knew  nothing  more  of  its  origin 
than  that  their  fathers  and  grandfathers  had  used  the  same  mills 
without  alteration,  except  the  occasional  renewing  and  repairs  of 
the  wood-work,  as  required. 

"  Some  w^riters, — and  amongst  the  rest.  Colonel  Sleeman, — in 
describing  this  construction  of  mill,  term  it  the  "  Pestle  and 
Mortar  sugar  mill:"  but  this  name  is  improperly  appUed,  for 
the  vertical  beam  has  no  reciprocating  up-and-down  motion,  as 
the  pestle  of  a  common  mortar  has,  but  merely  turns  round  in 
the  cavity  of  the  bed,  as  the  bullocks  walk  round  in  their 
circular  course.  The  bed  of  the  mill  is  formed  of  a  large  mass 
of  stone,  of  as  hard  a  natui'c  as  can  be  procured  in  the  locality, 
and  free  from  any  mixture  of  limestone,  on  which,  probably, 
the  action  of  the  acid  of  the  expressed  juice  of  the  cane  might 
be  injurious. 

"  The  beds  are  cyUndrical,  ornamented  externally  with  figures, 
emblematical  or  religious,  which  are  cut  in  reUef. 

"  The  upright  beam  of  the  mill  is  generally  selected  from  a 
tree,  the  wood  of  which  is  heavy,  hard,  tough,  and  durable ; 
and  for  this  purpose  the  trunk  of  the  babul,  which  is  indigenous 
in  these  parts,  is  weU  suited,  and  is  generally  chosen. 

"  The  bark  is  stripped  off,  one  end  is  rounded,  and  the  other 
is  cut  to  a  point ;  the  rounded  end  works  in  the  hollow  bed  of 
the  mill,  and  on  the  pointed  end  is  hitched  the  end  of  a  stay, 


THE    SUGAR   MILLS.  459 

properly  formed  for  the  purpose,  the  other  end  of  which  is 
attached  to  a  horizontal  beam,  generally  formed  from  a  strong 
crotched  piece  of  wood,  which  is  cut  at  the  crotched  end  to  fit 
into  a  groove  cut  on  the  outside  of  the  bed  in  which  it  traverses 
round,  and  the  bullocks  are  yoked  to  the  end  of  this  beam. 
The  stay  leading  from  the  top  of  the  vertical  beam  is  generally 
made  of  two  pieces,  which  are  capable  of  adjustment,  so  that 
the  horizontal  beam  to  which  the  bullocks  are  yoked  may  be 
kept  at  a  proper  distance  from  the  ground. 

"  The  short  pieces  of  cane,  as  they  are  supplied  by  a  native, 
are  bruised  and  squeezed  against  the  internal  sides  of  the  mortar 
as  the  vertical  beam  moves  round,  the  expressed  juice  running 
off  by  the  channel  which  is  cut  from  the  bottom,  opposite  to 
which  is  an  earthen  pan  let  into  the  ground  to  receive  it,  a  small 
piece  of  bamboo  generally  serving  to  connect  them. 

"  The  driver  sits  on  a  frame  or  seat  upon  the  end  of  the 
horizontzd  beam,  his  own  weight  increasing  the  bruising  power 
of  the  mill,  which  is  also  assisted  by  adding  a  weight  of  stones, 
if  necessary.  As  the  process  of  braising  the  cane  takes  place 
in  the  cold  season,  in  December,  the  driver  sometimes  keeps 
himself  warm  by  a  pan  of  hot  embers  placed  on  the  frame. 

"  To  each  of  these  mills  at  Belaspore  there  were  six  bullocks, 
forming  three  reliefs:  they  work  night  and  day  as  long  as  the 
cane  is  cutting,  three  hours  at  a  time  ;  and  in  three  hours  about 
four  seer  or  eight  pounds  of  juice  are  expressed.  The  juice, 
as  the  pan  fills,  is  immediately  taken  to  the  hut,  whence  the 
smoke  is  seen  escaping  at  the  door ;  and  there,  in  a  boiler  fixed 
on  a  rude  furnace,  the  process  of  boiling  the  juice  to  concentrate 
it  is  carried  on  ;  it  is  boiled  down  until  it  becomes  a  substance 
called  goor,  much  thicker  than  treacle ;  and  in  this  state  is 
carried  to  the  neighbouring  market  of  Mirzapur,  where  it  is  sold 
at  the  rate  of  eighteen  seer  for  the  rupee.  Sixteen  seer,  or  thirty- 
two  pounds  of  goor  are  obtained  from  one  maund  of  cane 
(eighty  pounds). 

"  In  the  foreground  of  the  sketch  are  three  heaps  of  sugar-cane, 
cut  into  pieces  of  six  or  eight  inches  long,  ready  to  be  supplied 
to   the   mill.     A  native  canies  the  pieces  of  sugar-cane  in  a 


460  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

basket,  and  charges  the  mill  by  occasional  supplies,  as  repre- 
sented in  the  drawing  ;  and  he  also  takes  out  the  bruised  cane, 
from  which  the  juice  has  been  sufficiently  expressed,  and  carries 
it  to  the  hut,  to  assist,  with  a  mixture  of  opla  (dried  cow-dung) 
in  making  the  fire  for  the  boiling  process.  The  sugar-cane  is 
slightly  wetted  when  put  into  the  mill,  about  two  pints  of  water 
being  used  to  moisten  about  eighty  pounds'  weight  of  it.  The 
goor  is  purchased  by  the  sugar-refiner,  who  dissolves  and  refines 
it  again  in  the  process  of  making  sugar.  But  goor  is  also  used 
for  several  purposes, — as  in  preparing  tobacco  for  smoking,  and 
by  masons,  to  mix  with  lime  in  forming  hard  cements  for  floors, 
terraces,  baths,  &c.,  for  which  the  Indian  masons  are  celebrated. 
It  is  impossible  to  contemplate  the  scene  in  the  drawing 
without  being  struck  with  the  strong  contrast  it  bears  to  any 
mechanical  process  in  our  own  country.  The  sketch  was  taken 
from  life,  and  there  was  a  quietude  and  apathy  in  all  the  per- 
sons engaged,  which  was  remarkable :  even  the  bullocks  are 
urged  round  at  a  very  slow  pace,  hardly  two  miles  an  hour,  by 
the  voice,  more  than  by  the  short  whip  occasionally  used  by  the 
driver.  Thus  it  is  ever  in  climates  where  the  necessaries  of  life, 
shelter,  food,  and  clothing  are  cheap,  and  easily  procured ;  in 
more  severe  climates  the  expenses  attendant  on  the  social  state 
call  forth  the  more  active  energies  of  human  nature.  '  God 
gives  sugar  to  him  who  eats  sugar',' — i.e.  He  provides  for  His 
creatures  in  proportion  to  their  wants." 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  142. 


CHAPTER    LXIX. 


RESIDENCE  AT  PRAG,  AND  RETURN  TO  CALCUTTA. 

The  Sibylline  Temple— Mr.  Berrill's  Hotel — A  Barouche  drawn  by  Camels — 
The  Murdar-khor — A  Kharita  from  the  Baiza  Ba'i — Marriage  of  the  Chimna 
Raja — Sultan  Khusrii's  Garden— The  Tombs — Tamarind  Trees — The  Sara'e 
— The  Baoll — Tattoos  used  for  Palanquins — Reasons  for  the  Murder  of  a  Wife 
and  Child — The  Lat— A  Skilful  Swordsman— An  Eclipse— Tiifans — Death 
of  Mr.  James  Gardner — Quitted  Allahabad— The  Ganges — A  Wreck — A 
Storm — Indian  Corn — Colgong — Seryagali  Hills  and  Ruins — Nuddea — Sus- 
pension Bridge — Prinsep  Ghat  at  Calcutta — Engaged  apassage  in  the  "Essex." 

1844,  Dec.  \8th. — The  whole  day  was  employed  in  receiving 
visits  from  our  old  acquaintances  at  the  station,  the  munshl,  the 
'amala  of  the  office,  and  the  natives  whom  we  formerly  employed. 
The  pleasure  they  testified  at  our  return  was  very  gratifying  ;  and 
thedelightof  Lutchman,my  old Barha'l mistree  (carpenter), was  so 
genuine,  it  brought  tears  from  my  eyes,  as  well  as  from  his  own. 
We  have  moored  the  boats  just  below  an  old  buij  (bastion)  of 
the  ancient  city  of  Priig  ;  there  is  a  gateway  below, — the  water- 
gate,  perhaps,  of  the  old  Fort :  the  Sibylline  temple  crowns  it. 
The  old  gossein  who  lives  in  the  temple  came  this  evening  to 
make  salam ;  he  reminded  me  of  my  having  given  him  a  present 
of  sixteen  rupees  for  having  aided  in  recovering  two  hundred, 
that  had  been  stolen  from  me  ;  he  was  young  and  good-looking 
then,  now  he  is  old  and  wily  :  he  brought  his  son,  a  fine  young 
Brahman,  to  introduce  to  me.  Many  are  the  strange  stories 
related  respecting  this  old  Brahman  and  his  solitary  temple  ;  and 
I  have  before  mentioned  its  curious  resemblance  to  that  of  the 
Sibyl.     Having  defended  the  truth  and  faithfulness  of  my  pencil 


462  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

in  England,  I  was  glad  of  an  opportunity  of  again  particularly 
observing  the  Ionic  style  of  architecture  of  this  httle  building  ; 
and  while  pondering  on  its  singular  appearance,  Colonel  Edward 
Smith  came  on  board,  and  solved  the  mystery  by  mentioning 
that  General  Ouchterlony,  finding  the  Jama  Masjid  seldom  used 
as  a  place  of  worship,  took  possession  of  it  as  his  dwelling-place, 
and  formed  magnificent  rooms  between  the  arches.  He  built 
the  temple  of  the  Sibyl  on  the  top  of  the  ancient  water-gate  of 
the  old  city.  The  Muhammadans,  some  years  afterwards, 
petitioned  Government  not  to  allow  the  mosque  to  be  used  as  a 
dwelling-place ;  it  was  therefore  restored  to  them,  and  is  now 
used  as  a  masjid. 

A  pretty  little  modern  building, — a  small  temple,  dedicated  to 
Mahadeo,  is  near  the  ancient  well  of  the  water-gate. 

I  am  quite  fatigued  with  seeing  old  faces,  and  saying  kind 
words  to  the  poor  people.  To  my  surprise  an  old  woman,  with 
a  basket  full  of  worsted  balls,  came  to  make  salam ;  she  was 
fat  and  well, — I  had  left  her  a  poor  wretched  creature ;  she 
used  to  make  worsted  balls  for  my  dog  Nero  to  fetch  and  carry. 
How  many  anas  a  month  the  poor  old  woman  got  from  Nero  ; 
she  used  to  throw  her  ball  to  the  dog,  and  then  come  to  ask  for 
payment;  she  was  in  fact  a  pensioner.  The  beautiful  dog  is 
dead;  and  the  wretched  old  hag  is  fat  and  well,  and  makes 
worsted  balls  as  usual.  She  got  her  little  present,  and  went  off 
quite  happy. 

The  ghat  off  which  we  are  moored  has  been  recently  made  by 
the  Steam  Agency  ;  and  just  above  is  an  hotel,  which  has  been 
established  for  the  convenience  of  the  passengers  from  the 
steamers,  and  is  well  conducted  by  Mr.  Berrill.  This  little 
hotel  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna-jee  is  well  described  in  the 
following  curious  lines,  which  were  written  in  four  languages  on 
the  window  of  an  inn  in  Russia. 

,  "  In  questa  casa  troverte 

Tout  ce  qu'on  peut  souhaiter, 
Vinum,  panem,  pisces,  carnes, 
Coaches,  chaises,  horses,  harness." 

23rd. — We  quitted  the  boats,  and  went  up  to  stay  with  our 


THE    MURDAR-KHOR.  463 

friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  M ;  they  received  us  with  all  that 

kindness  and  hospitality  for  which  India  is  renowned ;  their 
bungalow,  a  very  fine  one,  is  well  situated  at  the  other  end 
of  the  station.  We  met  a  barouche  drawn  by  two  camels, 
harnessed  like  horses ;  they  went  along  at  a  fine  pace,  and  I 
envied  the  possessor  that  pair  of  well  broken-in  carriage  camels  : 
in  double  harness  they  look  well ;  in  single  harness, — especially 
in  a  Stanhope,  or  any  other  sort  of  buggy, — the  animal  appears 
too  large  for  the  carriage. 

1845,  Jan.  II th. — Saw  a  small  comet,  the  nucleus  of  which 
was  more  distinct  than  that  of  the  immense  comet  I  saw  when 
at  sea,  although  the  tail  was  so  small,  that  it  looked  not  unlike 
the  thin  switch  tail  of  a  horse. 

]8th. — Finding  it  necessary  to  remain  up  the  country  for  a 
time,  we  dug  a  tank  and  made  a  house  for  the  wild  ducks,  and 
turned  sixty-five  birds  into  it.  It  was  amusing  to  see  the  delight 
with  which  the  murghabis  splashed  into  the  water  when  freed 
from  the  baskets  in  which  they  had  been  brought  from  the 
jangal,  and  such  a  confabulation  as  there  was  amongst  them ! 

I  omitted  to  mention  that  during  my  former  residence  at  this 
station,  the  jamadar  came  to  tell  me  that  a  murdur-khor  (an 
eater  of  carrion),  who  had  lately  arrived,  was  anxious  to  perform 
before  us.  The  man  did  not  ask  for  money,  but  requested  to 
have  a  sheep  given  him  ;  he  said  he  would  eat  the  whole  at  one 
meal,  body  and  entrails,  leaving  only  the  horns  and  the  skin, 
which  he  wished  to  carry  away  ;  the  wretch  said  that  he  would 
kill  the  sheep  by  tearing  open  its  throat  with  his  teeth,  and  would 
drink  the  blood.  This  feat  they  told  me  he  had  performed  before 
in  the  bazar.  I  saw  the  man  at  a  distance,  and  was  so  much 
disgusted  that  I  ordered  him  to  be  turned  out  of  the  compound 
(the  grounds  around  the  house).  In  Colonel  Tod's  " Travels  in 
Western  India"  there  is  a  most  interesting  account  of  the 
murdi-khor,  or  man-eaters  ;  he  made  an  attempt  to  visit  the 
shrine  of  Kalka,  the  dread  mother,  whose  rites  are  performed 
by  the  hideous  Aghori,  whose  patroness  she  is,  as  Aghoriswara 
Mata.  At  one  time  they  existed  in  those  regions,  but  were  only 
found  in  the  wildest  retreats,  in  the  mountain-cave,  or  the  dark 


464  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PItGRIM. 

recesses  of  the  forest.  Colonel  Tod  saw  a  man  perform  puja 
at  the  shrine  of  Goruknath,  whom  he  had  every  reason  to 
beUeve  was  one  of  these  wretched  people, — but  whether  he  was 
a  murdi-khor  he  could  not  determine ;  although,  as  he  went  off 
direct  to  the  Aghori  peak,  said  to  be  frequented  only  by  his  sect, 
it  is  probable  that  he  belonged  to  the  fraternity.  It  appears 
that  the  murddr-khor  (the  canion-eater)  is  almost  the  same  as 
the  ddam-khor  or  cannibal. 

24th. — This  life  is  very  monotonous,  and  the  only  variety  I 
have  is  a  nervous  fever  now  and  then. 

March  1st. — During  a  visit  at  the  house  of  a  friend  I  received 
a  kharlta  from  her  Highness  the  Biiiza  Bii'i,  and  was  greatly 
pleased  to  see  the  signature  of  the  dear  old  lady,  and  also  felt 
much  flattered  by  her  remembrance.  After  I  quitted  Allahabad 
for  England  her  Highness  remained  there  some  time  ;  at  last,  on 
her  positive  refusal  to  live  at  Bunarus,  it  was  agreed  that  she 
should  reside  at  Nassuk,  a  holy  place,  about  one  hundred  miles 
from  Bombay.  She  quitted  the  Upper  Provinces,  marched 
across  the  country,  and  established  herself  at  Nassuk.  Having 
heard  from  some  of  her  people  of  my  return  to  India,  and 
arrival  at  Prag,  her  Highness  did  me  the  honour  to  write  to  me, 
and  after  the  usual  compliments  with  which  a  native  letter 
always  commences,  the  Biiiza  Ba'i  added,  "  I  received  your 
letter  in  which  you  acknowledged  the  receipt  of  mine ;  but  I 
have  not  since  heard  from  you,  and  therefore  beg  you  will  write 
and  tell  me  how  you  and  the  sahib  are  ;  do  not  be  so  long  ageiin 
without  writing,  because  it  makes  me  anxious." 

I  sent  in  answer  a  letter  of  thanks  to  her  Highness  for  her 
kindness  in  having  borne  me  in  remembrance  ;  it  was  written  by 
a  munshi  in  the  Persian  character,  and  enclosed  in  a  kharlta. 
At  the  same  time  I  sent  a  bunch  of  the  most  beautiful  artificial 
flowers  to  the  Gaja  Raja,  to  testify  my  respect ;  it  would  have 
been  incorrect  to  have  sent  the  flowers  to  the  Ba'I.  They  were 
Parisian,  and  remarkably  well  made  ;  the  Gaja  Raja,  being  fond 
of  flowers,  will  be  pleased.  I  gave  the  letter  and  bouquet  to 
one  of  her  attendants,  Bulwunt  Rao,  who  promised  to  send 
them  across  the  country  to  Nassuk.     The  title  of  Gaja,  i.e. 


MARRIAGE    OF    THE    CHIMNA    RAJA    SAHIB.  465 

elephant,  is  curiously  applied  to  the  young  Princess,  her  form 
being  fragile,  delicate,  and  fairy-Uke. 

In  1848  I  received  a  letter  from  a  friend  at  Gwalior,  men- 
tioning that  the  Chimna  Raja,  the  daughter  of  the  Gaja  Raja 
Sahib,  who  was  born  at  Allahabad,  and  who  was  then  about 
eight  years  of  age,  had  been  betrothed  by  her  great  grandmother, 
the  Baiza  Ba'I,  to  JhankI  Rao,  the  Maharaj  of  Gwalior ;  after 
which  ceremony  the  young  bride  returned  to  Oojein  with  the 
ex-Queen.  This  intelligence  pleased  me  greatly,  because  the 
marriage  of  the  great  granddaughter  of  Daolut  Rao  Scindia  with 
the  reigning  sovereign  of  the  Mahrattas  will  give  great  satis- 
faction to  her  Highness  ;  and  the  wandering  Haji  rejoices  that 
her  great  grand-niece  (by  courtesy)  will  share  the  throne  of  her 
ancestors  with  the  Maharaj  of  Gwalior. 

5th. — This  evening,  while  cantering  at  a  sharp  pace  round 
the  Mahratta  Bandh,  my  horse  fell,  and  my  companion  thus 
described  the  accident  in  a  letter  to  his  brother.  "  Kabul  came 
down  upon  his  nose  and  knees  ;  nineteen  women  out  of  twenty 
would  have  been  spilt.  The  Mem  Sahiba  sat  her  horse  splen- 
didly, and  puUed  him  up  like  a  flash  of  lightning.  The  infernal 
brute  must  have  put  his  foot  in  a  hole.  The  evening  passed 
hearing  music,  and  talking  philosophy." 

9th. — I  was  invited  to  spend  the  day  at  Sultan  Khusru's 
garden,  to  which  place  a  tent  had  been  sent,  which  was  pitched 
under  the  fine  tamarind  trees  in  a  most  picturesque  place.  The 
garden  is  a  large  space  of  ground,  enclosed  by  a  high  wall, 
contzdning  tombs  and  some  very  fine  trees :  the  entrance  is 
through  a  lofty  gateway.  There  are  three  tombs,  and  a  Baithalc- 
khana  or  pavilion.  The  first  and  largest  monument  is  that  of 
Sultan  Khusrij,  in  which  he  is  buried  ;  it  is  a  handsome  building, 
and  within  it  is  deposited  a  beautifully  illuminated  kuran,  which 
the  darogha  showed  us  with  great  pride.  Sultan  Khusru 
married  a  daughter  of  the  Wuzeer  Azim  Khan  ;  he  was  the  son 
of  Jahangir,  and  his  mother  wa«  the  daughter  of  the  Rajput 
Prince  Bagwandas  of  Amber.  The  next  monument  is  that  of 
the  Jodh  Bii'I,  but  in  honour  of  which  lady  of  that  name  I 
know  not.     Akbar  married  a  Jodh  Ba'I,  the  daughter  of  Oodi 

VOL.  II.  H  h 


466  WANDERINGS   OF   A   PILGRIM. 

Singh,  of  Jodpoor ;  she  was  the  mother  of  Jahiingir,  and  was 
buried  on  the  Chand-maree,  near  Fathipur  Sicri.  Jahanglr 
married  a  Jodh  Bil'i,  the  daughter  of  Rae  Singh,  of  Bickaner ; 
she  was  the  mother  of  Shilhjahan,  and  her  tomb  is  at  Secundra. 
I  forget  to  whose  memory  the  tomb  in  Sultan  Khusru's  baghicha 
(garden)  was  erected. 

There  is  also  a  third  mausoleum,  which  is  not  so  handsome  as 
the  two  before  mentioned ;  and  the  fourth  building  is  a  pavilion, 
in  wliich  visitors  are  allowed  to  live  for  a  short  time  during  a 
visit  to  the  garden.  Around  the  tombs  are  some  of  the  largest 
tamarind  trees  I  ever  beheld :  the  imli,  as  the  natives  call  the 
tamarind  tree,  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  beautiful  in  the 
world ;  and  they  are  generally  found  around  or  sheltering  the 
tombs  of  revered  or  sacred  characters.  The  sherbet  prepared 
from  the  fruit  is  excellent ;  the  leaves  and  frait  are  used  medici- 
nally. The  natives  are  impressed  with  a  notion  that  it  is 
dangerous  to  sleep  under  the  tamarind  tree,  especially  during 
the  night ;  grass  or  vegetation  of  any  kind  is  seldom  seen  grow- 
ing in  such  situations,  and  never  with  luxuriance.  In  times  of 
scarcity  the  seeds  are  eaten  by  the  poor ;  they  resemble  a  com- 
mon field  bean. 

Part  of  Sultan  Khusru's  garden  has  been  cultivated  English 
fashion,  that  is,  for  vegetables ;  seeds  are  given  to  the  malts, 
(gardeners),  and  rewards  for  the  first,  second,  third,  and  fourth 
best  ddl'i — that  is,  basket  of  vegetables :  this  is  good ;  the 
highest  prize  is  fifty  rupees,  which  will  be  to  natives  worth  the 
contest.  The  milli  in  charge,  kneeling  on  one  knee,  presented 
me  with  a  bouquet  of  flowers  ;  it  was  not  ungracefully  done, — 
nevertheless,  it  was  bad  taste  to  teach  a  man  an  European  style 
of  reverence,  which  in  gracefulness  is  far  inferior  to  the  saliim 
of  the  native. 

The  sara'e  (caravansary) ,  with  its  gateways,  and  the  handsome 
one  through  which  you  pass  to  the  garden,  are  well  worth 
visiting ;  on  the  doors  of  the  latter  a  number  of  horse-shoes  are 
nailed  for  good  luck,  and  the  variety  in  shape  and  size  is  so 
great  it  is  absolutely  curious. 

Just  beyond  the  gates  of  the  sara'e  is  a  bdoli,  a  magnificent 


REASONS    FOR   THE    MURDER   OF   A   WIFE   AND   CHILD.        467 

well,  with  underground  apartments ;  it  is  a  most  remarkable 
and  curious  place,  and  the  well  is  a  noble  one.  The  top  of  the 
baoli  is  level  with  the  ground,  from  which  place  water  can  be 
drawn  up,  as  also  from  the  underground  apartments,  which 
open  on  the  well.  You  descend  by  a  long  broad  flight  of  stone 
steps  to  the  water's  edge,  where  there  is  an  arch,  ornamented 
with  two  large  fish,  the  arms  of  Oude.  Half  way  down  is  a 
pathway  of  stone  that  juts  out  from  the  wall,  and  communicates 
with  the  third  apartment,  from  which  you  ascend  by  small 
circular  staircases  to  the  top.  A  nervous  person  might  object 
to  the  walk  along  the  pathway,  it  being  very  narrow,  and  having 
no  defence — no  parapet  on  the  inner  side.  Parties  of  natives 
resort  here  during  the  hot  winds,  and  spend  the  hours  in  the 
coolness  of  the  biioli. 

March  1  bth. — Hired  a  large  bungalow  of  a  very  respectable 
native  for  eighty  rupees  a  month,  garden  included,  and  removed 
into  it. 

20th. — My  husband  received  permission  from  Government  to 
visit  England  on  furlough.  A  friend  quitted  us  for  the  up- 
country  in  a  palanquin  placed  on  a  truck,  and  drawn  by  a  tattoo 
(a  pony),  with  relays  on  the  road.  In  former  times  a  palanquin 
was  always  carried  by  bearers, — by  the  present  method  a  dak 
trip  is  performed  much  more  quickly  than  it  was  formerly  by 
relays  of  natives. 

26/A. — ^The  other  day  a  native  was  brought  before  Mr.  R. 

M ,  the  magistrate  of  Allahabad,  charged  with  the  murder  of 

his  wife  and  daughter.  The  man  confessed  to  having  cut  their 
heads  off"  with  his  sword ;  he  said  he  had  reason  to  believe  his 
wife  unfaithful,  therefore  he  killed  her ;  and  as  he  supposed  the 
magistrate  would  murder  him  for  the  act,  and,  as  in  that  case, 
his  young  daughter  would  have  no  one  to  marry  her,  and  would 
be  obliged  to  beg  her  bread,  he  killed  her  also.     "  But,"  said  he 

to  Mr.  M ,  "  beware  how  you  murder  me  for  having  killed  my 

wife.  If  the  women  find  their  husbands  are  hung  for  killing 
them  should  they  be  unfaithful,  what  man  will  be  safe  ?"  I 
know  not  the  name  of  the  frail  fair  one  who  fell  a  sacrifice  to 
jealousy ;  doubtless  it  was  soft  and  pleasing,  for  although  her 

Hh2 


468  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

husband  did  not  attend  to  the  words  of  the  Hindu  sage,  who 
says,  "  Strike  not  even  with  a  blossom  a  wife  guilty  of  a  hundred 
faults!"  still,  in  all  probability,  her  parents  bestowed  an  har- 
monious name  upon  her,  in  obedience  to  the  directions  of  Menu, 
who  suggests  that  "  the  names  of  women  should  be  agreeable, 
soft,  clear,  captivating  the  fancy,  auspicious,  ending  in  long 
vowels,  resembling  words  of  benediction."  He  also  says,  "  Let 
mutual  fidelity  continue  to  death :  this,  in  few  words,  may  be 
considered  as  the  supreme  law  between  husband  and  wife." 
The  conjugal  duties  of  the  Rajputs  are  comprehended  in  that 
single  text. 

30th. — When  I  was  formerly  at  Allahabad  the  Baiza  Ba'I  was 
anxious  to  have  leave  from  Government  to  erect  a  most  remark- 
able pillar  of  stone,  that  was  prostrate  in  the  Fort,  near  the 
gateway.  This  lat,  as  before  mentioned,  is  covered  with  inscrip- 
tions in  unknown  characters,  that  puzzle  the  learned.  The 
design  of  her  Highness  was  not  carried  into  execution,  and  the 
lat  was  afterwards  erected  in  the  Fort  at  the  expense  of  the 
Asiatic  Society,  by  Colonel  Edward  Smith,  C.B.  We  drove  to 
see  it  in  the  evening,  admired  it  very  much,  and  thought  it 
erected  with  great  judgment :  it  is  highly  ornamental  to  the 
Fort.  Whilst  we  were  examining  the  pillar,  the  buggy  horse 
took  fright,  became  very  violent,  upset  five  of  the  small  stone 
pillars  that  support  the  chains  that  surround  the  liit,  and  broke 
his  harness  in  divers  places.     The  scene  was  good. 

April  \st. — I  fell  by  accident  on  the  stones  in  the  verandah 
with  considerable  force,  and  fainted  away ;  the  blow  which  I 
received  on  my  left  shoulder  was  severe ;  painful  and  useless  my 
arm  hangs  by  my  side, — I  have  no  power  to  move  a  finger. 

The  oriental  proverb,  that  "  A  sharp  sword  will  not  cut  raw 
silk ',"  does  not  apply  to  silk  when  manufactured ;  as  I  this 
morning  saw  a  gentleman  place  a  silk  handkerchief  upon  his 
sword,  and,  with  one  skilful  drawing  cut,  divide  it  exactly  and 
diagonally. 

27th. — Divine  service  was  performed  in  the  new  church,  that 

'  Oriental  Proverbs,  No.  143. 


AN    ECLIPSE TUFANS.  469 

has  been  erected  at  Allahabad  at  the  expense  of  the  inhabitants  ; 
it  formerly  took  place  in  the  Circuit  Bungalow,  or  in  the  Fort. 
The  church  is  a  very  handsome  one,  and  the  internal  arrange- 
ments are  good. 

29th. — About  3  P.M.  a  tufan  came  on, — rain  in  torrents,  with 
heavy  hail, — dust  in  whirlwinds  ;  in  the  course  of  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  the  thermometer  fell  ten  degrees,  from  88°  to  78°. 
It  was  fine  to  witness  such  a  commotion.  The  roof  of  our 
house  was  under  repair, — streams  of  water  came  pouring  into 
every  room  from  all  parts  of  the  roof,  until  the  house  was  full  of 
it ;  much  damage  was  done  to  the  pictures  ;  and  we  were  obliged 
to  quit  the  place,  and  take  refuge  at  the  house  of  a  friend. 

May  Wth. — ^The  ice-pits  opened,  the  allowance  to  each  sub- 
scriber eight  seer  per  diem, — about  sixteen  pounds'  weight  daily. 
The  thermometer  is  89°.  There  being  no  wind,  the  tattis  are 
useless,  and  in  spite  of  the  thermantidote  the  heat  is  over- 
powering ;  we  begin  to  long  for  the  fresh  breezes  of  England  ;  I 
shall  rejoice  when  we  are  on  board  a  good  vessel  and  out  at  sea 
again. 

2lst. — About  half-past  9  p.m.  the  moon  was  almost  com- 
pletely echpsed,  and  the  night  was  so  dark  I  could  not  see  the 
way  as  I  was  driving  home.  The  natives  were  making  offerings 
of  rice,  fruit,  vegetables,  &c.,  to  restore  the  light  quickly,  and 
to  ward  off  impending  calamities. 

22nd. — A  tufan  or  a  storm  of  dust  blew  furiously  at  night, 
succeeded  the  next  morning  by  heavy  rain,  thunder,  and  light- 
ning; the  day  after  it  was  oppressively  hot, — another  storm 
cleared  the  atmosphere,  and  the  thermantidote  became  quite 
deUcious,  it  poured  in  such  a  volume  of  cold  air. 

3\st. — Went  to  the  Bandh  in  the  evening,  but  soon  returned  ; 
the  air  was  so  hot,  it  was  hke  breathing  liquid  fire. 

June  \st. — ^I'he  heat  in  church  was  so  oppressive,  I  will  not 
venture  there  again ;  pankhas  and  thermantidotes  are  in  full 
play  during  the  time  of  Divine  service, — but  even  with  their 
aid  in  cooling  the  air,  the  heat  is  intolerable. 

26th. — The  rains  appear  to  have  set  in,  accompanied  with 
thunder  and  Ughtning.     The  darkness  was  so  great  to-day  at 


470  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

4  P.M.  that  we  were  obliged  to  dine  by  lamp-light ;  the  evening  is 
dull  and  heavy,  the  rain  is  falling  in  torrents,  and  the  darkness 
is  relieved  at  intervals  by  forked  lightning;  the  thunder  is 
distant. 

30th. — Very  hot  during  the  day,  and  very  oppressive ;  this 
damp  heat  is  worse  for  the  health  than  the  dry  heat  of  the  hot 
winds.  Heard  with  regret  of  the  death  of  Mr.  James  Gardner, 
at  Khasgunge. 

July  8th. — Engaged  a  fourteen-oared  pinnace,  a  wooliik  of 
900  miins,  a  pataila  of  600,  and  a  small  cook-boat,  to  take  us 
down  to  Calcutta. 

20th. — We  quitted  dear  old  Prag  at  6  a.m.  under  heavy  rain 
and  a  contrary  wind.  I  bade  adieu  to  a  place  in  which  I  had 
spent  so  many  happy  days  with  much  sorrow,  and  without  any 
prospect  of  ever  revisiting  the  spot. 

22nd. — Anchored  at  Riij  ghat,  Benares  :  the  ghats  have  lost 
much  of  their  picturesque  beauty  from  the  height  of  the 
river,  the  water  having  covered  the  steps.  The  Hindu  temples 
that  have  partially  fallen  merely  show  their  spiral  domes  above 
the  waters ;  and  the  Ganges  is  as  full  of  mud  as  a  river  may 
well  be ;  the  w^ater  is  quite  thick,  of  a  muddy  colour,  and  a 
small  quantity  in  a  tumbler  gives  a  most  marvellous  sediment. 

24th. — A  heavy  wind  against  us ;  the  waves  were  so  high  on 
the  Ganga,  and  the  boats  rolled  so  violently,  that  the  natives  on 
deck  were  quite  overcome  by  sea-sickness,  and  I  was  also  suf- 
fering from  mal  de  mer. 

3\st. — Picked  up  a  large  heavy  chest  afloat  from  some  wreck. 
It  contained  fifty  boxes  of  G.  Davis'  Chinsurah  cheroots,  and 
was  marked  Jan  Mahomed  Shah,  in  the  Persian  character  :  the 
cheroots  were  all  destroyed  from  having  been  in  the  water.  Soon 
afterwards  we  picked  up  another  chest  of  the  same  size  and  de- 
scription, with  the  bottom  stove  in  ;  also  a  box  of  ^igars  that 
»*  was  floating  by  the  side  of  it,  evidently  from  the  same  wreck. 
Lugaoed  ofl^  the  basti  of  Tipperiah,  in  the  midst  of  an  expanse 
of  water.  About  8  p.m.  the  strong  easterly  wind,  which  had 
been  blowing  all  day,  veered  and  sunk ;  a  deep  silence  fell 
around — the  whole  canopy  of  heaven  was  covered  with  a  pall 


A    STORM — INDIAN    CORN.  471 

of  black  clouds :  there  was  not  a  gleam  of  light  excepting  on 
the  horizon  in  one  part,  where  there  was  one  low  gleam  of 
whitish  pale  Ught,  in  form  Uke  a  bow.  The  muddy  colour  of 
the  interminable  river  assumed  an  inky  blackness,  and  united 
with  the  horizon  all  around  :  a  few  minutes  afterwards  the  light 
on  the  horizon  disappeared,  and  all  was  intense  darkness, — a 
rushing  sound  then  arose,  and  the  rain  fell  in  torrents,  the 
drops  were  of  great  size,  it  more  resembled  the  fall  of  sheets  of 
water ;  soon  cifterwards  the  hghtning  blazed  over  the  river,  and 
some  peals  of  thunder  like  the  roar  of  cannon  and  the  sharp 
discharge  of  fire-arms,  added  to  the  stormy  scene.  During  this 
time  the  wind  rose,  and  suddenly  changed  to  the  opposite  quarter 
of  the  heavens.  I  made  the  dandis  look  well  to  their  mooringa, 
as  we  were  fastened  on  a  wet  field,  covered  by  the  river,  so  that 
there  was  a  fear  the  bamboos  would  be  torn  out  of  the  wet 
earth  by  the  force  of  the  wind  acting  on  the  vessel,  and  that  she 
would  be  carried  down  the  fierce  stream ;  however,  she  stood  it 
well,  being  in  rather  slack  water,  therefore  I  went  to  bed  and 
slept  quietly  through  the  gale,  after  I  had  sufiiciently  enjoyed 
the  first  part  of  it. 

August  \st. — The  rock  of  Dolepaharry,  with  its  temple  and 
beautiful  trees  standing  far  distant  inland  and  of  very  great 
height,  was  a  beautiful  object — it  is  near  Janghira — the  latter 
rock  sank  into  insignificance  and  appeared  very  low,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  height  to  which  the  Ganges  had  risen.  The 
whole  country  is  overflowed — the  river  appears  like  one  vast 
sea  with  a  number  of  fine  trees  in  it — their  trunks  rising  out  of 
the  water,  and  the  earth  completely  hidden. 

Passed  Sultangunge  and  anchored  on  a  wet  bank,  just  on  the 
entrance  of  that  branch  of  the  river  that  leads  to  Bhagulpur. 
The  Hindus  must  go  without  their  dinners  to-night ;  they  will 
not  cook  on  board,  and  in  the  wet  swamp  they  cannot  make  a 
fire :  this  is  a  wretched  anchorage,  and  here  comes  the  rain  in 
torrents  again.  Stolen  goods  cannot  be  digested,  or  never 
thrive,  and  so  it  proved  with  a  boy  employed  to  pull  the  pankha. 
He  stole  a  great  quantity  of  Indian  corn ;  it  was  not  ripe,  but 
of  full  size ;  abounding  in  milk,  sweet,  and  tempting  to  eat  when 


472  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

raw ;  but  when  fried  in  butter,  with  pepper  and  salt,  it  is  delicious. 
In  spite  of  the  caution  given  by  an  old  havildiir,  to  whom  the 
field  belonged,  the  boy  ate  a  great  quantity — his  body  swelled, 
he  became  in  great  pain,  and  is  now  ill  with  fever. 

3rd. — Last  night  the  distant  roar  of  the  waters  as  they 
rushed  past  the  rocks  of  Colgong  lulled  me  to  sleep.  This 
morning,  about  7  a.  m.,  we  came  up  to  the  rocks,  the 
stream  was  rushing  past  at  a  fearful  rate,  and  forming  very  large 
and  powerful  whirlpools.  Two  large  patailas  were  on  before 
us ;  the  first  was  twirled  round  by  the  eddy  and  carried  back 
against  the  other ;  they  became  entangled,  and  both  were  carried 
back  with  great  velocity  for  about  three  hundred  yards.  Our 
pinnace  was  flying  along  aided  by  the  oars  on  board,  and  also 
by  the  towing  of  her  little  boat ;  but  the  powerful  eddy  turned  the 
vessel  straight  across  the  stream,  and  there  she  was  stopped, 
the  eddy  pulling  one  way  and  the  men  the  other — ^just  at  this 
moment  an  immense  pataila  of  about  two  thousand  miins, 
heavily  laden  with  gram,  was  coming  down  upon  us  with  full 
force,  borne  on  by  the  violent  stream ;  it  was  a  disagreeable 
sight,  it  appeared  as  if  the  shock  must  sink  the  pinnace  :  fortu- 
nately a  woolak  was  between  us  and  the  monster  vessel ;  she 
came  with  great  force  first  upon  the  woolak,  and  drove  her  against 
the  pinnace  in  front  of  herself;  the  pinnace  reeled  with  the 
shock,  but  it  saved  us  greatly,  and  the  large  vessel,  disengaging 
herself  from  us,  went  on  shoving  our  stem  right  round  in  her 
impetuous  course.  I  ran  on  deck,  having  a  dislike  to  be  drowned 
in  a  cabin,  but  escaped  with  only  a  fright.  The  dandis  recom- 
menced their  exertions,  and  in  a  short  time  we  were  out  of  the 
eddies  and  whirlpools  around  the  rocks,  and  in  calm  water. 
Colgong  is  very  beautiful,  both  during  the  rains  and  the  cold 
weather,  and  this  is  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the  Ganges. 
At  11  A.M.  passed  the  Teriyagali  Hills.  The  dandis  say  there  are 
fine  ruins  in  the  jangal  on  the  largest  hill,  but  no  road  to  them  ; 
and  they  speak  of  the  immense  doorways — entrances  ;  I  should 
like  to  explore  the  place. 

8th. — At  1  p.  M.  passed  Nuddea,  eighty-two  and  a  half 
miles  from  Calcutta ;  at  this  spot  the  Jellingee  unites  with  the 


ENGAGED    A    PASSAGE    IN    THE    "  ESSEX."  473 

BhagirathT,  and  they  flow  forward  under  the  name  of  the 
Hoogly :  the  tide  is  perceptible  at  Nuddea,  it  just  comes 
so  far. 

9th. — Anchored  at  Nyaserai  to  prepare  anchors  for  the  tide, 
which  detained  us  one  hour  and  a  half.  Nyaserai  is  on  the 
entrance  of  the  old  Damooda  river,  over  which  there  is  a  light 
iron  suspension  bridge.  An  Up-country  boy  who  was  pulling 
the  pankha  told  me  it  made  his  blood  run  cold  to  see  the  people 
crossing  on  such  a  slight  bridge ;  that  his  father  had  never 
visited  Calcutta,  nor  he  himself,  but  that  his  grandfather  had 
made  the  voyage.  He  was  charmed  with  some  Ooria  singers 
on  the  bank,  and  thought  they  would  make  their  fortunes  if 
they  were  to  visit  Prag : — what  a  budget  of  wonders  the  boy 
will  have  to  unfold  on  his  return  to  the  Up-country  !  Moored 
off  the  residence  of  a  friend  at  the  powder-works  at  Eeshapur. 

\Oth. — Arrived  in  Calcutta — anchored  off  Prinsep  ghat,  from 
which  place  you  have  a  fine  view  of  the  river  and  of  the  ship- 
ping, all  the  large  vessels  lie  just  off  the  ghat.  Visited  the 
"  Madagascar"  and  the  "  Essex"  in  the  evening. 

I9th. — Took  our  passage  to  England  in  the  "Essex;"  the 
price  of  the  larboard  stern  cabin  on  the  poop  was  2500  rupees, 
for  ourselves,  an  ayha,  and  my  curiosities. 

28th. — Having  settled  all  our  affairs  we  came  on  board  ;  for- 
tunately the  ship  will  not  sail  until  to-morrow — I  am  killed  with 
fatigue. 


CHAPTER    LXX. 


SKETCHES  AT  SEA. 

"  The  brave  man  is  not  he  who  feels  no  fear, 
For  that  were  brutish  and  irrational ; 
But  he,  whose  noble  soul  its  fear  subdues, 
And  bravely  dares  the  danger  nature  shrinks  from." 

The  "Essex" — The  "James  and  Mary" — Steering  a  Ship  at  Anchor — A  Water- 
spout— The  Andamans — Acheen  Point — A  squally  Trade  Wind — Rodorigos 
— A  Gale — The  Whirlwind — The  Stormy  Petrel — A  Day  of  Repose — A  Re- 
markable Sunrise. 

Sept.  1st. — At  8  A.M.,  while  we  were  in  tow  of  the  steamer, 
the  "  Essex"  ran  upon  a  sandbank ;  she  fell  over  veiy  dis- 
agreeably on  her  side,  was  thus  carried  by  the  violence  of  the 
tide  over  the  obstacle,  and  righted  in  deep  water ;  the  acci- 
dent broke  the  hawsers  that  united  the  two  vessels.  After  some 
little  difficulty  and  much  delay  we  proceeded  on  our  voyage. 
The  pilot  was  much  surprised,  as  a  fortnight  before  that  part 
of  the  river  was  all  clear ;  he  said  we  had  run  upon  the  end  of 
the  tail  of  the  "  James  and  Mary"  sandbank,  which  had  become 
lengthened,  and  he  despatched  a  notice  thereof  to  Calcutta. 
Where  the  Hoogly  is  joined  by  the  Roopnarrain  at  Hoogly 
Point,  a  very  large  sheet  of  water  is  formed,  but  it  has  many 
shoals ;  and  as  it  directly  faces  the  approach  from  the  sea,  while 
the  Hoogly  turns  to  the  right,  it  occasions  the  loss  of  many 
vessels,  which  are  carried  up  the  Roopnarrain  by  the  force  of 
the  tide.  The  eddy  caused  by  the  bend  of  the  Hoogly  has,  at 
this  ^lace,  formed  a  most  dangerous  sand,  named  the  "  James 
and  Mary,"  around  which  the  channel  is  never  the  same  for  a 


STEERING    A    SHIP   AT   ANCHOR.  475 

week  together,  requiring  frequent  surveys.  The  Bore  com- 
mences at  Hoogly  Point.  The  musquitoes  were  very  trouble- 
some ;  we  found  it  cooler  than  on  shore,  but  nevertheless  very 
hot. 

2nd. — Passed  Mud  Point,  and  felt  rather  nervous  on  the 
occasion ;  the  heat  was  intense,  and  there  was  not  a  breath  of 
air.  Employed  myself  writing  farewell  letters  to  friends  in  India, 
which  were  sent  to  Calcutta  by  the  Saugor  dak  boat.  This 
evening  the  tide  ran  with  such  violence  that  after  the  vessel  had 
anchored,  it  was  necessary  for  a  man  to  remain  at  the  helm. 
This  steering  an  anchored  vessel  had  a  curious  and  novel  effect. 

3rd. — ^The  pilot  quitted  us  at  the  Sandheads,  and  took  my 
husband's  official  letters  with  him.  A  calm  came  on,  and  we 
were  just  preparing  to  anchor  again,  when  a  breeze  sprang  up 
and  carried  us  out  to  sea. 

4th. — A  number  of  native  sailors  (khalasts)  came  down  the 
river  with  us  to  assist  the  men  on  board  the  "Essex."  Seven 
of  the  English  sailors  are  ill  from  fever ;  no  marvel  with  extra 
grog  and  hard  work  under  such  a  terrific  sun :  the  musquitoes 
and  prickly  heat  alone,  are  enough  with  such  intense  heat  to 
bring  on  fever. 

I  saw  a  waterspout — it  commenced  like  a  great  funnel  hanging 
from  a  dark  cloud  that  was  the  basis  of  a  fine  white  one  :  the 
point  of  the  funnel  having  descended  about  half  way  attracted 
the  sea-water,  which  bubbled  and  rose  up  in  a  point  until  it 
united  with  the  end  of  the  spout ;  having  accomplished  this 
union,  the  spout  thickened,  and  became  of  the  same  size  from 
the  top  to  the  bottom.  After  a  time  it  appeared  to  become 
lighter,  for  it  bent  with  the  wind  and  formed  a  slight  curve.  The 
spout  became  still  less  and  less,  and  eventually  so  thin  that  the 
wind  carried  it  along  almost  horizontally.  It  appeared  to  sever 
from  the  sea,  and  having  become  as  thin  as  a  ribbon,  disappeared. 
It  was  of  a  dull  rainy  colour — some  bright  blue  sky  was  above 
the  white  cloud  formerly  mentioned,  and  the  whole  had  a 
vapoury  appearance. 

8lh. — ^The  weather  cooler  ;  for  the  last  few  days  we  have  had 
heavy  squalls,  accompanied  with  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain 


k 


476  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

in  torrents.  Ill  from  mal  de  mer :  I  know  not  when  I  have 
suffered  so  severely ;  the  ship  has  a  cargo  of  sugar,  which  is 
packed  in  hides :  the  rain  has  fallen  in  torrents,  in  sheets  of 
water,  as  rain  only  falls,  I  think,  in  the  bay  of  Bengal,  a  perfect 
deluge : — the  hatches  having  been  closed  in  consequence,  a 
horrible  effluvium  has  ascended  to  the  cuddy :  how  people  can 
live  below  deck  is  a  miracle,  in  the  heat  and  steam  of  those 
sweating  hides  !  fortunately,  no  passengers  are  below,  and 
sailors,  poor  fellows,  endure  and  shrink  not.  An  huppoo  was 
seen  to-day  making  its  way  to  the  ship,  but  weary  from  its  long 
flight,  and  overpowered  by  the  strong  squall,  it  sank  in  the 
waters  screaming.  A  flying-fish  came  on  board,  and  one  of  the 
most  elegantly-formed  birds  I  ever  saw,  which  they  called  a 
whale-bird,  was  caught  in  the  rigging ;  its  head  beautifully 
marked,  the  body  slight,  its  slender  and  powerful  wings  very 
long. 

nth.— Off  Madras. 

I3th. — Opposite  Centinel  Island  in  the  Andamans, — very 
little  wind.  It  is  remarkable,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
squalls,  how  calmly  we  have  come  down  the  Bay  ;  at  this  time 
of  the  year  we  expected  to  encounter  fierce  weather.  The 
weather  still  hot,  although  very  diflFerent  from  what  it  was 
before, — nevertheless  it  renders  any  exertion  a  great  toil. 

I4th. — ^The  moonlight  evenings  on  the  poop  are  beautiful. 
A  fine  breeze,  with  a  steady  ship ;  she  is  deeply  laden,  goes  on 
quietly  and  steadily,  and  seldom  rolls  at  all.  What  a  contrast 
to  that  wretched  "  Carnatic  !"  Apropos,  1  am  told  she  was  con- 
demned in  Calcutta  as  not  sea-worthy  ;  therefore  I  had  a  good 
escape  in  her. 

1 5th. — We  are  anxious  to  get  to  the  western  side  of  the  Bay, 
but  the  winds  force  us  in  a  contrary  direction  ;  we  are  near  the 
Nicobars,  running  down  the  side  of  the  islands.  I  should  like 
to  go  on  shore  to  see  Lancour,  and  the  rest  of  my  friends,  the 
Carnicobar-barians,  once  more. 

1 6th. — ^To-day  we  are  only  fifty  miles  from  the  great  Nicobar, 
and  shall  soon  get  away  from  the  islands,  which  will  be  pleasant ; 
should  a  squall  come  on  their  vicinity  is  to  be  avoided.     The 


A    SQUALLY    TRADE    WIND.  477 

"  Essex"  has  been  very  unfortunate  this  voyage :  in  coming  out 
she  lost  her  captain  at  the  Cape  ;  in  Calcutta  she  lost  her  third 
mate,  the  cook,  and  six  seamen.  The  property  of  the  deceased 
seamen  w'ill  be  sold  by  auction  on  deck  this  evening. 

I7th. — We  have  passed  the  Great  Nicobar,  and  are  on  a 
level  with  Acheen  Point.  The  vessel  is  going  steadily  through 
the  water  about  six  knots  an  hour. 

I8th. — A  squall  came  on  during  the  night,  and  snapped  the 
flying  jib-boom  right  in  halves :  my  slumber  was  broken  by 
being  nearly  pitched  out  of  my  sea  sofa.  This  being  an  unfa- 
vourable time  of  the  year  for  a  voyage  to  England,  we  have  only 
two  passengers  besides  ourselves  on  board, — fortunately  they  are 
most  agreeable  people.  We  have  now  two  cabins  on  the  poop, 
the  larboard  stern  cabin,  and  the  one  next  to  it,  and  are  therefore 
very  comfortable. 

I9th. — We  are  creeping  away  to  the  south  ;  there  is  a  swell, 
and  we  are  looking  out  for  the  trade  wind. 

20th. — Rain  and  calm, — what  an  annoyance  !  Oh  !  for  a  gale 
to  carry  us  with  double-reefed  topsails  over  the  Line,  as  we  had 
in  the  "  Madagascar !"  Any  thing  would  be  better  than  this 
vile  calm.  What  does  it  matter  if  a  few  spars  are  snapped,  and 
a  few  more  sails  split  asunder,  if  we  do  but  make  way  !  We 
must  now  be  exactly  upon  the  Line :  the  musquitoes  have  not 
yet  quitted  my  cabin,  they  plague  me  greatly.  As  if  in  accord- 
ance with  my  wish,  at  4  p.m.  a  squall  came  on,  and  carried  us 
over  the  Line. 

2\st. — A  fine  favourable  breeze, — we  flatter  ourselves  it  may 
be  the  trade. 

24th. — Squalls  and  calms. 

26th. — A  heavy  squall,  which  continued  with  lightning  and 
rain  in  torrents  from  noon  throughout  the  night :  we  are  quite 
dispirited. 

28th. — ^With  joy  this  morning  I  saw  the  stunsails  were  set, 
and  a  fine  sun  was  drying  the  deck  :  now  I  really  believe  we 
have  fallen  in  with  the  trade. 

Oct.  3rd. — Never  was  there  so  unpleasant  a  wind  as  this 
south-east  trade.     It  is  very  strong  and  constant,  but  is  a  sue- 


478  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

cession  of  squalls,  both  night  and  day.  The  ship  lies  over 
very  much,  and  the  waves  burst  upon  her  in  a  very  disagreeable 
fashion ;  we  have  made  200  or  225  miles  for  some  days,  but 
these  constant  squalls  are  detestable.  There  comes  the  water 
rushing  into  the  cuddy  at  this  minute ! — we  are  now  about  400 
miles  from  Madagascar. 

5th. — I  do  not  mention  that  Divine  service  was  always 
performed  on  Sundays, — that  took  place,  of  course,  unless 
prevented  by  a  gale.  During  the  night,  passed  the  Island  of 
Rodorigos,  to  the  north ;  I  did  not  see  the  land,  distant  only 
seven  miles,  my  port  being  shut,  on  account  of  having  shipped 
a  sea,  which  rendered  the  cabin  cold  and  wet. 

Horsburgh  remarks,  "  Hurricanes  are  liable  to  happen  here 
from  the  beginning  of  November  till  the  end  of  March;  in 
some  years  there  are  two,  but  generally  only  one,  and  sometimes 
none.  They  blow  with  great  violence,  commencing  from  south- 
ward, and  veering  round  to  east,  north-east,  and  north-west, 
where  they  gradually  decrease,  after  continuing  about  thirty-six 
hours.  The  fish  caught  here  in  deep  water  with  hook  and  line  are 
poisonous  ;  whereas,  those  got  by  the  net  in  shore  are  good  and 
wholesome."  The  land  is  high  and  uneven,  reefs  and  shoals 
encompass  it ;  the  harbour  is  called  Maturin's  Bay.  The 
remarkable  peak  answers  as  a  guide. 

8th. — Passed  the  Mauritius,  and  were  opposite  Bourbon, 
about  two  hundred  miles  south. 

9th. — Crossed  the  Tropic. 
•  10th. — Off  Madagascar  we  were  caught  about  noon  in  the  tail 
of  a  whirlwind  ;  fortunately  it  was  only  the  tail, — the  sailors  said, 
had  we  fallen  into  the  centre  of  it,  and  the  vessel  had  been 
unprepared,  it  would  have  carried  the  masts  overboard.  Rain 
fell  in  torrents  ;  a  water-spout  was  seen  for  a  short  time, — and 
the  wind,  hitherto  fair,  became  completely  contrary. 

1 5th. — This  has  proved  a  most  uninteresting  voyage  as  far  as 
it  has  gone,  nothing  to  be  seen  ;  one  solitary  albatross  appears 
now  and  then,  and  a  few  Cape  pigeons.  The  other  day  I  saw  a 
sperm  whale  blowing  at  a  distance.  There  is  nothing  to  look 
at  but  the  boundless  ocean ;    even  the  sunsets    and   sunrises 


A    GALE.  479 

have  not  been  remarkably  fine, — no  groups  of  glorious  tints 
such  as  I  beheld  from  the  "  Carnatic  "  on  the  other  side  the 
Line. 

22nd. — Cold  and  dreary.  Saw  a  fin-back  whale  close  astern  ; 
two  fine  albatross  and  four  Cape  pigeons  were  floating  on  the 
waters ;  some  stormy  petrels  were  cutting  about,  and  dipping 
their  wings  in  the  waves  every  moment ;  and  there  were  also 
two  black  Cape  hens.  The  flight  of  the  Cape  pigeon  is  very 
elegant,  and  the  albatross  skims  along  in  the  most  dignified  style. 

23rd.— Lat.  S.  33°  56',  Long.  E.  29°  6'.  A  most  stormy 
sunset :  the  sun,  of  a  burning  gold  colour,  descended  behind  a 
heavy  bank  of  dark  clouds, — its  rays  were  fiercely  bright : 
shortly  afterwards  a  few  spaces  of  deep  fiery  red  alone  remained 
visible,  surrounded  by  heavy  black  clouds ;  on  every  side  the 
grey  clouds  rose  thick  and  foggy  fi'om  the  horizon,  without  any 
break, — dull  and  ominous.  We  were  ofi"  Cape  Hood,  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  A  strong  gale  arose,  accompanied  by  sharp 
squalls ;  there  was  an  immense  swell  upon  the  sea,  the  heavy 
waves  rolled  up  with  great  violence,  their  heads  covered  with 
foam,  breaking  and  roaring  as  they  dashed  against  the  ship,  and 
the  wind  blew  in  furious  gusts.  The  "Essex  "  was  about  two 
hundred  miles  from  the  land  when  the  gale  began, — it  continued 
all  night  without  intermission ;  the  dead-lights  were  put  into 
the  poop  stern  windows,  and  into  all  the  ports.  Early  in  the 
morning  I  saw  that  my  husband  had  quitted  his  couch  in  the 
stem  cabin,  and  was  sitting  in  a  chair,  apparently  unable  to 
cross  the  cabin,  from  the  violence  of  the  pitching ;  he  had 
left  his  couch  because  it  had  become  unsafe,  the  lashings  and 
the  elects  having  given  way.  I  assisted  him  into  my  cabin, 
and  he  lay  down  on  the  sofa ;  he  was  quite  ill, — so  cold  and 
wretched,  from  exposure  during  the  night.  His  kindness  and 
consideration  had  prevented  his  calling  me,  being  unwilling  to 
awake  me,  imagining  I  was  asleep,  and  unconscious  of  the  heavy 
gale  that  was  raging  around  us.  My  ayha,  who  usually  got  up 
before  daybreak,  to  smoke  her  hooqii  in  the  galley,  made  an 
eflfort  to  quit  the  cabin ;  I  desired  her  not  to  attempt  to 
move,   or  she  would  be  thrown  down  from  the  pitching  and 


480  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM. 

rolling  of  the  vessel ;  but  the  moment  my  eye  was  oflf  her  away 
she  went :  she  met  another  ayha  in  the  passage,  who  said, 
"Are  you  mad,  that  you  want  to  go  and  smoke  in  such  a  gale 
as  this?  "  My  ayha,  who  would  sell  her  soul  for  half  a  dozen 
whiflfs  of  tobacco,  persisted  in  going ;  she  had  not  got  half  way 
through  the  cuddy  when  she  fell,  and  I  heard  a  violent  scream. 
The  cuddy  servants  ran  to  her  assistance,  and  found  she  had 
broken  her  leg  just  above  the  ankle;  the  bone  was  through  the 
flesh,  and  the  wound  bled  very  much.  The  medical  man  set  her 
leg,  and  with  great  difficulty  we  had  her  removed  into  the  stern 
cabin,  where  we  secured  her  as  well  as  we  were  able,  but  not 
until  some  time  had  passed,  as  the  large  heavy  toonwood  couch 
in  the  stern  cabin  had  started  from  its  moorings,  and,  turning 
over  topsy-turvy,  had  dashed  across  the  cabin,  breaking  and 
throwing  down  the  table,  and  carrying  away  the  trunks.  Never 
was  there  such  confusion  as  the  furniture  made  in  the  cabin, 
pitching  from  side  to  side  with  the  roll  of  the  vessel.  At  length 
the  carpenter  secured  the  frisky  couch,  bound  up  the  wounds  of 
the  table,  and  relashed  them  all.  By  this  time  the  sea  was 
breaking  over  the  stern  windows,  and  dashing  into  the 
cabin,  in  spite  of  the  dead-lights,  and  into  the  quarter- 
gallery  ;  much  damage  was  done  on  the  poop.  The  medical 
man,  knowing  that  leeches  sold  at  the  Cape  for  half-a- 
crown  a-piece,  on  account  of  there  being  none  but  those 
that  are  imported,  on  which  a  heavy  duty  is  paid,  took  10,000 
of  them  from  Calcutta,  secured  in  large  earthen  pots  (ghards) 
full  of  soft  mud,  which  were  all  placed  on  the  poop,  in  a  small 
boat  called  "  Little  Poppet."  The  water  cistern  gave  way,  and 
dashing  against  "  Little  Poppet,"  upset  her,  broke  all  the  gharas, 
and  the  sea-water  killed  the  leeches.  The  cutter  that  hung 
over  the  quarter  was  turned  up  on  one  side  by  the  force  of  the 
wind,  dashed  against  the  side  of  the  "  Essex,"  was  greatly 
injured,  and  rendered  utterly  useless ;  three  of  her  oars  fell  into 
the  sea,  and  were  borne  away,  but  the  sailors  secured  the  boat. 
By  noon  on  the  24th  (Lat.  S.  33°  45',  Long.  E.  28°),  the  cur- 
rent had  carried  the  vessel  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  nearer 
the  land,  which  was  now  only  eighty  miles  distant ;    we  were 


THE    WHIRLWIND.  481 

driving  almost  under  bare  poles,  the  violence  of  the  wind  not 
allowing  any  sail  but  one  small  one ;  another,  which  they 
wished  to  set,  was  twice  blown  to  pieces,  and  could  not  be 
carried.  The  waves  were  striking  the  vessel  in  the  most 
frightful  manner,  roaring  in  concert  with  the  gale,  and  jostling 
and  rolling  against  the  ship  as  if  they  were  ready  to  engulf 
her.  Nevertheless  the  "Essex"  bore  bravely  on;  her  cap- 
tain put  her  about,  and  we  ran  down  the  side  of  the  land 
for  some  distance.  To  sleep — to  rest,  with  so  furious  a  gale 
blowing,  was  impossible ;  and  how  the  time  passed  I  hardly 
remember,  for  day  and  night  it  was  the  same — pitch,  pitch, 
roll,  roll, — and  the  same  roar  :  all  night  long  two  seamen  were 
baling  out  the  water  from  our  cabins, — the  waves  poured 
constantly  into  the  cuddy  ports  on  one  side,  and  rolled  out 
on  the  other.  We  sat  down  to  dinner,  a  plate  of  food  was 
brought  to  each  person,  and  we  held  on  and  ate  as  we  could ; 
every  now  and  then  an  officer  came  down  for  ten  minutes,  took 
his  food  as  hastily  as  possible,  and  returned  instantly  to  the 
poop, — it  was  an  anxious  time. 

"  But  where  of  ye,  O  tempests,  is  the  goal  ? 
Are  ye  like  those  within  the  human  breast  ? 
Or  do  ye  find,  at  length,  like  eagles,  some  high  nest  ?  " 

About  4  P.  M.  on  the  second  day,  the  thunder  rolled  heavily, 
the  lightning  was  very  vivid,  and  hail  fell  in  heavy  showers. 
The  chief  officer,  having  caught  up  a  handful  of  the  large  hail, 
gave  it  to  me  in  a  plate  at  the  cuddy  door,  where  I  amused 
myself  with  eating  it,  and  watching  the  scene.  About  this  time 
the  situation  of  the  vessel  became  critical :  the  first  officer 
desired  the  captain  to  observe  what  was  coming  down  on  the 
weather  side  ;  he  could  not  tell  what  it  was,  never  having  seen 
any  thing  of  the  kind  before.  The  foam  of  the  sea  was  caught  up 
by  the  wind,  and  whirled  round  and  round  in  thick  masses  like 
smoke  ;  it  blew  heavily,  and  the  spray  beat  with  such  violence 
into  the  faces  of  the  officers,  that  at  times  they  could  not  see. 
Not  a  minute  elapsed  ere  the  whirlwind  struck  the  vessel  on 
her  weather  side,  and  the  blast  was  perfectly  hot !    The  captain 

VOL.  11.  1  i  ■ 


482  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

called  to  the  men  to  hold  on ;  they  were  prepared, — and  well 
for  them  they  were  so  :  with  a  tremendous  roll  the  vessel  was 
pitched  over  almost  on  her  beam-ends  ;  the  thing  was  so  sudden, 
and  the  officers  were  so  blinded  by  the  spray  and  wind,  that  they 
could  not  tell  whether  the  whirlwind  passed  by  the  stem  or  the 
head  of  the  vessel.  Almost  as  quickly  as  the  wind  struck  her 
on  the  weather  side  it  was  round  to  the  other,  and  the  ship  was 
taken  aback,  or  brought  by  the  lee. 

The  mountainous  waves  were  foaming,  breaking,  and  dashing 
against  her ;  one  great  sea  broke  off  the  knees  of  the  vessel, 
drew  out  two  or  three  of  the  long  iron  bolts,  and  loosened  the 
cutwater.  The  thunder  rolled,  the  lightning  flashed,  and  every 
five  minutes  the  hail  beat  on  the  decks  like  the  pitching  down  of 
myriads  of  marbles.  At  length  the  horizon  cleared,  and  the 
gallant  ship,  rising  over  the  surge,  went  on  her  way  rejoicing. 
Still  the  original  gale  continued  with  unabated  violence,  and  the 
heavy  swelling  sea  was  a  glorious  although  an  appalling  sight. 
A  lesson  of  composure  might  have  been  read  from  a  trifling 
circumstance :  during  the  time  that  the  wind  was  blowing  furi- 
ously, and  the  waves  were  mountains  crested  with  foam,  on  the 
lee  side  of  the  vessel  I  saw  a  stormy  petrel,  ever  such  a  little  wee 
bird,  floating  on  the  billows,  rising  and  falling  with  them  so  quietly, 
calmly,  and  composedly,  it  appeared  wonderful  that  the  wind  did 
not  tear  it  off'  the  wave  and  sink  it  in  the  waters  ;  but  there  the 
little  bird  floated  and  floated,  and  rose  and  sank,  and  was  too 
wise  to  unfold  her  wings  for  a  second,  or  to  attempt  to  fly. 

25th. — ^We  beat  out  to  sea  in  the  face  of  the  north-wester ; 
it  was  trying  work  both  for  the  ship  and  the  men ;  they  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  a  proper  distance  from  the  land,  and  we  tacked 
opposite  Algoa  Bay.  The  wind  moderated,  the  sea  went  down, 
merely  a  long  swell  continued, — the  palpitation  of  the  bosom  of 
the  ocean  after  the  rage  into  which  she  had  been  pleased  to 
throw  herself. 

Unless  in  mountains  like  the  Himalaya  there  is  nothing  in 
nature  so  beautifully  grand  as  a  storm  at  sea. 

'  Classically  Mare — therefore  feminine. 


A    DAY    OF    REPOSE.  483 

How  much  delight  may  be  experienced  during  a  storm  !  How 
animating,  how  beautiful  is  the  scene !  Who  can  gaze  on  swiftly 
flying  clouds,  or  on  rushing  waves  crested  with  foam,  without 
emotions  of  pleasure  ?  Who  can  breathe  the  pure  and  bracing 
air  of  a  stiff  gale,  and  not  feel  their  spirits  rise  within  them  ? 
All  those  feelings,  commonly  ridiculed  as  romantic,  which, 
shrinking  from  the  eye  of  the  world,  hide  themselves  in  the 
depths  of  the  heart,  are  called  forth  during  such  a  scene.  The 
memory  presents  all  that  is  charrtiing  in  poetry,  all  that  delights 
in  song,  all  that  best  suits  with  the  wild  weather :  the  spirits 
rise,  and  there  is  perhaps  nothing  in  this  world  that  can  be 
more  fully  enjoyed  than  a  storm  at  sea. 

The  confidence  sailors  have  in  their  own  skill  and  resources, 
their  patience,  good  spirits,  and  good  humour  in  days  of  trial, 
impart  a  portion  of  their  own  spirit  to  those  in  their  society. 
I  felt  more  inclined  to  enjoy  the  gale  than  to  fear  it  when  on 
deck  with  the  officers,  but  when  at  night,  in  the  darkness  of  my 
own  cabin,  with  the  water  dashing  in,  and  the  wax -light  dimly 
burning,  I  must  acknowledge  I  thought  what  a  wretched  sensa- 
tion the  first  dash  into  one  of  those  roaring  waves  would  give 
me,  the  cold  plunge,  and  the  jaw  of  the  shark  ! 

We  were  in  His  hands  who  stilleth  the  raging  of  the  waves  ; 
I  thought  of  the  composure  of  the  little  bird,  and  never  allowed 
any  expression  of  fear  to  find  its  way  to  my  lips,  or  to  appear 
on  my  countenance.  The  officers  were  now  able  to  get  a  little 
rest ;  they  must  have  been  exhausted,  as  they  had  scarcely 
quitted  the  poop  for  a  moment  night  or  day ;  their  eyes  were 
red  and  starting, — how  they  must  have  slept  when  they  were 
able  to  turn  in  !  I  could  have  enjoyed  the  storm,  but  that 
my  unfortunate  ayha  distressed  me, — with  her  broken  leg,  it 
was  a  fearful  thing  to  be  tossed  about  in  such  a  gale,  although 
every  care  and  attention  was  given  her.  I  did  not  suffer  from 
mal-de-mer ,  and  was  moving  about  all  day  and  night. 

26<A. — This  was  a  day  of  calm,  and  of  repose  for  the  wearied  ; 
also  a  day  for  the  repair  of  the  damage  done  by  the  gale.  And 
deep  I  beUeve  was  the  gratitude  felt  by  all  on  board  for  the 
protection  afforded  us  during  the  storm. 

I  i2 


484  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

27th. — Our  course  regained,  the  "Essex"  sailed  quietly  on. 

28^A. — At  sunrise  I  was  summoned  in  haste  to  the  poop,  to 
see  a  remarkable  effect  in  the  sky.  Just  above  the  spot  where 
the  sun  was  struggling  to  appear  from  behind  a  bank  of  reddish 
grey  clouds,  there  was  thrown  across  the  bright  blue  sky  a  long 
white  cloud,  exactly  in  shape  and  twist  like  an  Archimedes 
screw  ;  I  added  it,  with  the  sunset  of  the  night  before  the  gale, 
to  ray  collection  of  "  Sketches  at  Sea."  Should  I  ever  live  to 
be  old — or  rather,  older,  how  pleasantly  these  sketches  will 
recall  the  memory  of  the  past ! 


CHAPTER   LXXI. 


SKETCHES  AT  SEA— MOUNTAINS  OF  AFRICA— THE 
FAREWELL. 

"  An  adieu  should  in  utterance  die, 
Or  if  written  but  faintly  appear  ; 
Only  heard  in  the  burst  of  a  sigh, 
Or  seen  in  the  drop  of  a  tear." 

The  Buffalo — The  Quoin— Cape  Aguilhas — Hangclip — Capo-del-Tomados — 
Robbin  Island — Table  Bay — Cape  Town — Green  Point — The  Lion  Moun- 
tain— St.  Helena — Flying-fish — Blue-fish — Island  of  Ascension — Funeral  at 
Sea — A  Sailor's  Grave — A  Chinese  Calculation — Waterspouts — The  Western 
Isles  —  St.  Michael's  —  Pico  —  Fayal  —  Christmas  Eve  —  The  good  Ship 
"  Essex" — Arrival  in  England — The  Pilgrim's  Adieu. 

1845,  Oct.  29th. — At  9  a.m.  I  was  called  on  deck  to  look  at  the 
mountains  of  Africa.  The  Buffalo,  or  rather  its  high  peak, 
soared  black  and  distinct  over  the  white  clouds  that  rolled 
below,  covering  the  whole  length  of  the  mountains  :  here  and 
there  a  summit  might  be  distinguished,  and  the  land  and  hum- 
mocks below  the  clouds  were  tolerably  clear.  The  sky  was  of 
the  brightest,  purest  tint  of  cobalt  blue,  the  white  clouds  were 
crossing  it  in  all  directions ;  the  clouds  themselves  were  borne 
along  by  the  wind  to  the  right,  while  their  tops  were  carried 
back  towards  the  left,  as  if  they  encountered  a  contrary  current 
of  air  aloft.  Soon  after  I  had  sketched  the  Buffalo's  most  peculiar 
black  peak,  a  mist  spread  over  the  mountains,  the  wind  changed, 
we  went  further  out  to  sea,  and  the  line  of  mountains  became 
too  indistinct  to  afford  subject  for  the  pencil.  The  deep  sea 
line  brought  up  small  shells  in  considerable  quantity. 


486  WANDERINGS   OF    A    PILGRIM. 

Nov.  1st. — The  Quoin  lay  distant  twelve  miles  from  the 
"  Essex,"  E.  by  N.,  ^  N.,  and  fifty-seven  miles  from  the  Cape — 
Sandy  Bay  lies  between  the  two  points.  The  Gunner's  Quoin 
is  three  or  four  leagues  from  Cape  Aguilhas,  which  it  resembles. 
Cape  Aguilhas,  or  Lagullas,  was  called  by  its  discoverers,  the 
Portuguese,  Aguilhas,  or  Needle's  Cape,  because  the  magnetic 
needle  had  no  variation  there  at  the  time : — the  Portuguese 
name  has  been  corrupted  by  the  English  sailors  into  Lagullas,  or 
Lagullus.  Hangclip  was  the  next  remarkable  object.  Hors- 
burgh  remarks,  "  False  Bay  is  formed  by  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  on  the  west  side  and  Cape  False  to  the  eastward,  the 
latter  being  a  steep  Bluff,  resembUng  a  Quoin,  which  may  be 
seen  at  eight  leagues'  distance,  and  appears  to  lean  over  to  the 
west  when  viewed  from  the  southward,  from  which,  probably,  it 
was  called  Hangclip  by  the  Dutch,  but  sometimes  Hottentot's 
Point." 

The  outline  of  the  Mountains  of  Africa  was  very  peculiar 
as  we  approached  the  Capo -del-Tornados,  or  Cape  of  Storms,  as 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  was  called  by  its  first  discoverers,  the 
Portuguese,  who  afterwards  changed  the  name  to  that  of  Capo 
del  Buon  Esperanza.  At  the  distance  of  sixteen  miles  we 
beheld  the  Capo-del-Tornados  itself,  next  to  it  was  the  Peak ; 
the  high  land  in  False  Bay  was  remarkable,  and  in  the  distance, 
between  these  points,  you  caught  a  view  of  the  back  of  Table 
Mountain.  The  scene  was  very  interesting  as  we  sailed  along 
the  range  of  Mountains,  and  the  fineness  of  the  day  allowed 
us  to  see  them  to  advantage.  Hout's  Bay  was  very  pic- 
turesque ;  deep  shadows  were  around  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  warm  light  of  the  setting  sun  gilded  their 
summits. 

Sunday,  2nd. — At  sunrise  the  scene  was  beautiful ;  we  gazed 
on  the  Lion  Mountain  opening  Green  Point, — the  Table  Mountain 
was  of  a  very  dark  plum  colour,  in  strong  contrast  with  the 
glowing  brilhancy  of  the  rising  sun,  and  a  dark  cloud  hung  upon 
the  flat  surface  of  the  mountain-top.  On  the  opposite  side,  as  we 
entered  Table  Bay,  lay  Robbin  or  Penguin  Island,  with  breakers 
to  the  left, — the  Whale  also,  a  sunken  rock  over  which  the 


TABLE  BAY — CAPE  TOWN.  487 

waves  constantly  break.  The  dark  Blueberg  Mountains  to  the 
right  finished  the  picture. 

Anchored  in  Table  Bay  during  a  deep  cold  fog  at  10  a.m. — 
took  apartments  in  an  hotel  in  the  Heerengracht, — found  the 
rooms  intensely  hot  at  night,  and  very  disagreeable  after  the 
pure  sea  air.  We  drove  in  the  evening  to  a  friend's  house  in 
the  Camp  Ground,  and  gathered  a  beautiful  bouquet  from  his 
garden. 

My  first  thought  on  arriving  in  Southern  Africa  was  of  the 
Mountain,  the  next  of  the  flowers.  A  strelizia  was  brought  to  me  ; 
it  is  an  indigenous  bulb  in  Aft'ica,  and  as  one  flower  dies  away 
another  bursts  forth.  On  our  return  to  the  ship,  I  took  the 
strelizia  on  board,  and  watched  the  bursting  forth  of  the  fresh 
flowers  for  some  days.  A  very  good  sketch  of  Cape  Town  may 
be  taken  in  the  Heerengracht,  just  below  Messrs.  Dickson  and 
Burnie's ;  it  gives  George's  Hotel,  now  kept  by  a  man  of  the 
name  of  Duke,  the  large  trees  in  front,  the  Dutch  Reform 
Church,  and  the  Table  Mountain  beyond.  Another  good  point 
is  the  Market  Square,  with  its  pump  in  the  centre,  St.  George's 
Church,  the  Town  Hall,  and  the  Dutch  and  Hottentot  venders 
of  fruit  and  vegetables  at  their  stands  in  the  Green  Market,  as 
they  call  it. 

Mr.  Robertson,  a  stationer  in  the  Heerengracht,  has  some 
admirable  water-colour  drawings  for  sale,  portraits  of  the  natives 
of  Africa. 

7th. — Drove  to  Green  Point  with  the  captain  of  the  "  Essex," 
to  see  the  light-house.  I  climbed  up  to  the  roof  through  a 
narrow  pigeon-hole,  and  was  well  rewarded  for  my  trouble  by 
the  beauty  of  the  view.  The  beach  was  covered  with  shells, 
broken  into  the  smallest  fragments  by  the  rolling  surf.  The 
view  from  the  rocks,  at  the  end  of  Green  Point,  looking  over 
Camp's  Bay,  is  very  beautiful. 

\Oth. — Visited  my  ayha,  whom  I  had  been  obliged  to  send  to 
the  hospital  on  account  of  the  accident  which  she  met  with  on 
board,  and  found  her  quite  comfortable.  The  poor  woman  was 
very  glad  to  see  me,  and  I  arranged  for  her  return  to  Calcutta. 
I  bought  a  kaross  of  eighteen  heads,  as  it  is  technically  called, 


488  WANDERINGS    OF    A    PILGRIM. 

the  sole  garment  worn  by  the  Kafirs,  for  four  pounds  ;  it  is  very 
large  and  handsome,  consisting  of  skins  of  the  red  jackal.  "With 
the  exception  of  the  kaross  the  Kafir  is  entirely  unincumbered 
with  clothing ;  these  skins  are  much  sought  after  by  officers 
on  service,  which  is  perhaps  the  reason  they  are  so  expensive 
in  Cape  Town. 

The  "Essex"  was  detained  at  the  Cape  in  consequence  of 
the  repairs  that  were  necessary  on  account  of  the  damage  she 
received  during  the  gale ;  to-day,  on  her  being  reported  fit 
for  sea,  we  repaired  on  board. 

nth.— At  10  A.M.  the  "  Essex"  quitted  Table  Bay.  Tt  was  a 
beautiful  day — the  white  clouds  trom  a  south-easter  that  was 
blowing  were  rising  over  the  Table  Land, — the  sea  was  a  bright 
transparent  green,  with  white  breakers  on  every  wave,  and  the 
sky  was  the  colour  of  the  purest  cobalt  blue. 

As  you  pass  Robbin  or  Penguin  Island,  the  Lion  Mountain 
assumes  in  a  considerable  degree  the  form  of  a  lion  reposing, 
from  which  appearance  it  derives  its  name  : — the  rump  of  the 
lion  is  formed  of  the  mountain  on  which  the  telegraph  stands. 
The  scene  would  have  made  an  excellent  sketch,  representing 
the  back  of  the  Table  Mountain,  with  the  Devil's  Peak  to  the 
right,  the  Lion  in  front,  and  Robbin  Island  at  the  side.  The 
latter  is  a  low,  long,  sandy  island,  with  some  few  houses  upon 
it,  and  it  looks  very  desolate.  Made  a  run  of  two  hundred  and 
nine  miles. 

I8th. — Rolling  down  to  St.  Helena  with  a  fair  breeze  in  most 
agreeable  style. 

2 1  st. — A  most  beautiful  and  brilliant  day.  Went  on  deck  about 
11  A.M.  to  see  St.  Helena  in  the  distance:  sketched  the  island 
from  the  forecastle,  and  paid  for  my  footing.  The  island  then 
lay  N.N.W.  distant  eight  miles  :  Diana's  Peak,  two  thousand 
six  hundred  and  ninety-two  feet  high,  appeared  to  be  nearly  in 
the  centre  :  the  Needles  and  Speery  were  very  distinct,  as  was 
also  Sandy  Bay  Point. 

St.  Helena  was  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  in  1508,  on  the 
festival  of  St.  Helena,  the  mother  of  the  Emperor  Constantine 
the  Great.     It  was  taken  from  the  Dutch  in  1674  by  Admiral 


ST.    HELENA.  489 

Munden,  and  presented  to  the  East  India  Company  by  Charles  II. ; 
and  it  was  given  up  by  the  Hon.  Company  to  the  English 
Government  for  the  residence  of  the  Emperor  Buonaparte. 
Length  of  the  island,  ten  miles  and  a  half;  breadth,  six  and 
three-quarters  ;  circumference  at  the  water's  edge,  thirty  miles  ; 
twelve  hundred  miles  west  of  Africa,  and  eighteen  hundred 
east  of  America.  Whales  are  found  off  the  island.  It  contains 
four  thousand  inhabitants,  and  thirty  thousand  acres  of  arable 
and  pasture  land.  The  air  is  salubrious,  the  valleys  are  fruitful, 
and  flocks  of  wild  goats  browze  on  the  hills. 

The  island  rises  a  mass  of  rocks  from  the  sea ;  the  only  two 
points  for  landing  are  at  St.  James's  Town,  the  capital,  and  at 
Sandy  Bay.  When  St.  Helena  lay  five  miles  S.W.  the  view 
presented  was  particularly  good :  you  could  see  George's 
Island,  as  well  as  Hercules  Island,  the  flag-staff.  Barn  Point, 
the  Sugar-loaf  Hill,  and  the  plantation  at  Longwood.  The 
pointed  summits  of  the  rocks  in  the  distance,  whose  peaks  turn 
from  each  other,  are  very  remarkable. 

There  is  another  good  view  of  the  island  when  in  front  of  Barn 
Cliff,  so  called  from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  a  great  barn. 
Sugar-loaf  Hill  derives  its  name  from  its  conical  shape.  I  was 
told  that  Sandy  Bay  was  well  worth  visiting,  its  scenery  being 
beautiful, — which  I  can  well  imagine,  from  the  wild  form  of  the 
rocks  around  it,  when  viewed  from  a  distance. 

Opening  St.  Helena  Bay,  at  the  base  of  the  Sugar-loaf,  are 
three  batteries,  called  Buttermilk  and  Bank's  Upper  and  Lower 
Batteries,  at  a  small  distance  from  each  other.  We  came  to 
anchor  off  James's  Town,  near  the  high  perpendicular  rock  of 
Ladder  Hill,  surmounted  by  its  battery  and  telegraph,  above 
which,  in  the  distance.  High  Knoll  is  to  be  seen.  Diana's  Peak, 
the  highest  point  in  the  island,  is  two  thousand  six  hundred  and 
ninety-two  feet  high  ;  High  Peak,  or  High  Knoll,  a  conical  hill, 
south-west,  is  about  fifty  feet  less  elevated  than  the  former. 
The  rock  rises  eight  hundred  feet  perpendicular  from  the  sea, 
with  a  heavy  battery  of  guns  upon  it,  that  command  the  south- 
west entrance  to  the  valley  and  anchorage.  James's  Valley  is 
also  protected  by  a  high  wall  and  strong  line  of  cannon  close  to 


I 


490  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

the  sea.  The  Ladder  contains  six  hundred  and  seventy  steps. 
The  flag-staff  is  in  the  Government  gardens,  above  the  battery. 
Munden's  Fort  and  Batteries  command  the  side  of  James's 
Valley,  and  Rupert's  Battery  is  at  the  bottom  of  a  valley  of  that 
name. 

We  anchored  a  little  before  5  p.m.  :  it  was  very  cold,  from 
the  wind  rushing  down  the  valley  directly  upon  the  anchorage. 
The  sunset  was  fine,  in  the  midst  of  dark  clouds,  contrasted 
with  others  of  a  burning  crimson ;  and  to  the  right  the  dark 
rock  of  St.  Helena  rose  abruptly  from  the  sea.  The  more  I 
gaze  on  this  desolate-looking  and  rocky  island,  the  deeper 
becomes  my  pity  for,  and  the  interest  I  feel  in,  the  fate  of 
Buonaparte. 

The  young  officers  are  in  high  glee,  fishing  off"  the  poop  ;  they 
have  just  caught  two  small  silver  mackarel.  The  gun  fires  at 
9  P.M.,  after  which  time  no  boat  will  quit  the  island,  and  no  person 
is  permitted  to  land.  I  fear  I  shall  be  unable  to  visit  Sandy  Bay, 
on  the  other  side  of  the  island ;  an  officer  of  the  "  Winchelsea  " 
told  me  not  to  miss  seeing  that  bay  on  any  account ;  he  gave  us 
sixty-two  days  from  the  Cape  to  England,  and  eleven  to  St. 
Helena ;  we  arrived  here  in  ten  days  and  a  quarter.  The 
captain  of  the  "  Essex  "  came  on  deck  just  before  we  anchored, 
he  appeared  very,  very  ill, — in  my  opinion,  fearfully  so. 

22nd. — A  rainy  and  cold  morning ;  it  cleared  about  noon, 
when  I  went  on  shore,  and  climbed  the  steps  of  Ladder  Hill  for 
some  distance, — they  are  almost  perpendicular ;  want  of  time 
prevented  my  ascending  to  the  summit  of  the  six  hundred  and 
seventy  steps.  Admired  the  pretty  church  just  within  the 
gateway,  and  visited  the  market ;  beef  and  mutton,  ten  pence  to 
one  shilling  per  pound ;  grapes,  just  in,  at  two  shillings  and 
sixpence  per  pound ;  the  peaches  are  bad,  the  loquats  the  same, 
and  but  few  vegetables ;  beet-root  and  cabbage  good  ;  articles  of 
every  sort  very  dear. 

A  good  sketch  of  the  town  may  be  taken  from  the  upper  end 
of  the  principal  street,  looking  towards  the  sea.  Walked  over 
the  Government  gardens,  in  which  is  a  cenotaph,  in  memory  of 
the  officers  and  men  who  died  in  the  "  Waterwitch  "  off"  different 


] 


ISLAND   OF    ASCENSION.  491 

parts  of  the  coast  of  Africa.  In  a  hut  near  the  beach  I  saw 
a  dried  flying-fish,  sixteen  or  eighteen  inches  in  length, — offered 
the  man  a  shilling  for  it,  which  he  refused ;  they  are  found 
now  and  then  in  the  boats  off"  the  rocks,  into  which  they 
sometimes  happen  to  fly  or  fall ;  the  largest  found  at  St.  Helena 
are  twenty-four  inches  in  length,  and  are  very  delicate  food. 

Went  down  to  the  foot  of  the  cliff"  under  Ladder  Hill,  where 
the  breakers  were  dashing  over  a  fine  reef  of  rocks  that  run 
out  into  the  sea  in  most  picturesque  style  ;  an  old  anchor  was 
cast  on  one  of  them,  and  beyond  it  lay  a  cannon, — the 
eff'ect  of  the  anchor  cast  away  on  the  rocks  was  good.  Several 
boys  were  fishing  there  ;  they  brought  me  some  blue  fish,  which 
are  very  beautiful,  of  a  brilliant  deep  purplish  blue  colour, 
interspersed  with  crimson  streaks, — they  are  considered  great 
dehcacies.  They  showed  me  some  beautiful  fish,  spotted  with 
red, — these  are  also  very  good  for  food.  I  picked  up  some 
black  sea  eggs,  young  crabs,  and  limpets  ;  the  latter  are  eaten 
by  the  French.  Returned  on  board,  much  against  my  will, — I 
could  have  spent  the  day  very  happily  on  the  rocks  which  jut 
out  below  the  great  cliff"  on  which  the  Ladder  is  built.  At 
5  P.M.  the  "  Essex  "  fired  a  gun  ;  the  anchor  was  raised,  which 
appeared  to  be  hard  work  in  such  deep  water,  and  we  once 
more  set  sail  for  old  England. 

23rd. — The  captain  dangerously  ill. 

26th. — Since  we  quitted  St.  Helena  we  have  made  excellent 
runs  daily  in  a  direct  line  for  Ascension,  and  the  vessel  has  been 
so  steady  we  have  scarcely  felt  any  motion. 

27th. — Passed  Ascension  about  6  p.m.:  the  island  has  the 
appearance  of  a  cluster  of  mountains  of  a  conical  form.  One 
small  eminence.  Cross  Hill,  is  so  called  from  the  cross  that 
surmounts  it.  Green  Mountain  is  the  highest  point  in  the 
island, — viewed  from  some  points  it  has  a  double  peak. 

30th. — Divine  service.  Crossed  the  Une  with  a  seven  and 
a  half  knot  breeze.  One  of  the  officers  reminded  me  that  he 
was  in  the  "  Madagascar  "  with  me  when  we  re-crossed  the  line 
under  reefed  topsails. 

Dec.  1st. — A  fine  favourable  breeze.     The  captain  is  very  ill ; 


492  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 

I  fear  he  is  sinking  into  his  grave.  He  was  in  delicate 
health  before  the  gale,  and  the  exertion  he  underwent  at  that 
time  was  too  much  for  him ;  there  is  but  faint  hope  of  his 
recovery. 

5th. — Picked  up  the  north-east  trade.  The  captain's  illness 
increased  at  night,  and  about  ten  o'clock  he  expired. 

6th. — At  10  A.M.  the  funeral  took  place  :  the  corpse  having 
been  sewed  up  in  canvas  was  placed  on  the  main  hatch,  with 
the  colours  spread  over  it :  when  the  ceremony  of  the  burial  of 
the  dead  commenced,  the  body  was  placed  with  the  feet  to  the 
open  gangway,  on  a  plank,  in  a  sloping  position ;  the  colours 
had  been  thrown  over  it,  but  you  could  trace  the  form  of  the 
corpse  through  them.  "When  the  words,  "We  commit  this 
body  to  the  deep,"  were  pronounced,  the  men  who  stood  by  the 
corpse  launched  it  forwards  into  the  sea,  and  it  sank  immedi- 
ately. The  chief  officer  read  the  service, — he  was  deeply 
affected  ;  the  captain  had  been  his  friend,  and  he  had  attended 
him  during  his  illness  with  the  greatest  solicitude ;  he  read  the 
service  in  a  broken  and  trembling  voice, — the  tears  rolling  down 
his  cheeks, — he  could  scarcely  master  his  agony.  It  is  a  fearful 
sight  to  witness  such  a  struggle  in  a  firm  and  powerful  man. 
He  was  performing  the  request  of  his  departed  friend :  a  few 
days  before,  when  he  informed  the  captain  of  his  danger ;  the 

latter  looked  surprised,  and  said,  "  Well,  B ,  my  good  fellow, 

I  have  but  one  request  to  make, — give  me  a  sailor's  grave." 
The  next  day  he  arranged  his  worldly  affiiirs,  and  was  employed 

in  devotion.     Mr.  B bore  up  during  the  life  of  his  friend, 

but  to  part  with  him, — to  commit  his  body  to  the  deep, — to 
read  the  service  over  him, — must  have  been  a  bitter  trial.  The 
crew  were  all  present,  and  tears  ran  down  many  a  hardy 
sunburnt  face  ;  the  captain  was  greatly  beloved  both  by  the 
officers  and  men.  The  passengers  appeared  in  mourning  at  the 
funeral.  The  day  was  a  most  lovely  one, — the  bright  waves 
flew  by  the  ship  as  the  trade  wind  bore  her  onwards,  and  the 
breeze  tempered  the  heat  of  the  sun.  I  thought  of  the  festering 
and  air-poisoning  churchyards  of  London,  and  felt,  as  far  as  I 
am  concerned,  how  much  I  should  prefer  a  sailor's  grave, — the 


WATERSPOUTS.  493 

bright  wave  dashing  o'er  me,  and  the  pure  air  above,  to  the 
heavy  sod  and  the  crowded  churchyard. 

7th. — And  now  once  more  for  England.  Saw  a  schule  of 
whales — the  fin-back  ;  one  of  them  was  near  the  ship,  blowing 
up  the  water,  about  six  feet  high ;  the  large  Greenland  whale 
spouts  much  higher. 

A  Chinese  calculation  was  shown  us  in  the  evening,  which  is 
worthy  the  trouble  of  discovering  :  take  a  pack  of  cards, — the 
ace  counts  as  one,  knave,  queen,  king,  as  ten  each  ;  look  at  the 
top  card  (suppose  it  be  an  ace) ,  lay  it  with  its  face  upon  the 
table,  and  add  to  it  as  many  cards  as  will  make  the  number 
twelve, — that  is,  eleven  cards  on  the  back  of  the  ace ;  then  take 
the  next  card  from  the  pack  (suppose  it  be  a  knave) ,  place  it  face 
downwards,  count  it  as  ten,  and  add  to  the  back  of  it  two  cards, 
which  will  make  it  twelve  ;  then  take  the  next  card  (suppose 
it  a  four) ,  place  it  in  the  same  manner,  and  add  eight  cards  to 
it,  which  will  make  it  twelve,  counting  each  card  as  one.  In 
this  manner  dispose  of  the  whole  pack ;  there  may  be  some 
cards  over,  lay  them  aside.  The  conjurer  will  then  see  the 
number  of  the  packs,  and  the  number  of  cards  remaining  over, 
and  will  be  able  by  calculation  to  tell  the  amount  of  the  pips  on 
the  bottom  cards,  which  he  has  not  seen,  that  are  with  their 
faces  downwards  on  the  table.  This  calculation  is  ingenious,  and 
may  be  discovered  by  algebra. 

\Ath. — The  nine- knot  breeze  continues,  which  we  have  had 
for  the  last  two  days ;  and  the  "  SX  "  pitches  so  much  I  can 
scarcely  write. 

WATERSPOUTS.  X 

\7th.—La.t.  N.  32°  15',  long.  W.  27°  55'.  At  noon  heavy 
clouds  were  around  us,  and  a  waterspout  appeared  astern  ;  it 
was  at  a  considerable  distance.  Tlie  sea  whirled,  and  rose  up  to 
meet  it  to  a  great  height ;  it  continued  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  and  was  too  far  astern  to  do  us  any  injury.  The  trade 
was  strong,  and  we  were  going  nine  knots  an  hour.  At  the 
same  time  another  waterspout  appeared  about  three  miles  off,  on 
the  starboard, — it  was  coming  towards  the  ship  from  the  south- 


494  WANDERINGS    OF   A    PILGRIM, 

east ;  it  was  of  considerable  size,  and  whirled  and  foamed  very 
distinctly ;  fortunately  it  passed  astern  until  it  gained  the  point 
where  the  first  waterspout  had  been  seen,  of  which  a  portion 

above  was  still  visible.     Captain  B fired  a  cannon  at  it, 

which  appeared  to  have  little  or  no  effect :  very  heavy  clouds 
were  all  around  the  vessel,  but  as  soon  as  the  spouts  disappeared 
in  the  south-west,  the  sun  came  out  brilliant  as  usual.  I  sketched 
the  second  spout  just  as  it  came  astern,  and  a  remnant  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  former  waterspout  was  in  the  distance. 

2lst. — Passed  St.  Michael's  to  the  westward,  of  which  we  had 
a  distant  view. 

Pico. 

22nd. — At  7  A.M.  we  had  a  good  view  of  the  Island  of  Pico, 
with  its  most  remarkable  peak  above  the  clouds,  and  an  hour 
afterwards  we  had  a  still  clearer  glimpse  of  its  bell-shaped 
summit,  which  is  eleven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  The 
smoke  of  fires  burning  on  the  mountain  was  visible. 

At  10  A.M.  we  were  off  Fayal,  the  white  buildings  of  the 
town  appeared  to  rise  from  the  dark  waters,  and  the  effect  was 
most  singular.  The  lookouts  are  on  the  cliff.  The  distant 
blue  land,  of  which  we  caught  a  sight  behind  the  town,  is 
St.  George's  Island.  Passing  along  Fayal,  the  Convent,  which 
is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  island,  was  distinctly 
visible ;  there  appeared  to  be  some  painting  on  the  outside 
walls.     The  vineyards  looked  green  and  luxuriant. 

At  the  end  of  the  Island  of  Fayal  is  a  curious  and  insulated 
rock ;  the  turbulent  sea  has  worn  a  deep  cavern  in  this  rock, 
through  which  the  light  is  visible.  Above,  on  the  main  land, 
are  steep  perpendicidar  cliffs  ;  some  are  of  the  colour  of  burnt 
terra  di  sienna,  others  of  a  bright  deep  reddish  brown  :  the 
shadows  were  heavy,  and  a  brilliant  light  was  caught  upon  the 
,  cliffs — a  tremendous  swell  from  the  north-east  was  dashing 
in  breakers  half-way  up  the  lofty  cUff.  I  think  I  never  saw 
breakers  rise  so  high  before— on  the  horizon  was  a  fog-bank — 
the  cavern  bearing  east  four  or  five  miles.  The  day  was  beau- 
tiful and  most  favourable :  I  was  delighted  with  this  passing 


-o 


o 


ARRIVAL    IN    ENGLAND.  495 

view  of  the  Western  Isles,  very  much  gratified ;  the  air  was 
sharp  and  cold,  the  sunshine  brilliant ;  and  I  believe  every  one 
on  board  enjoyed  the  scene. 

23rd. — The  Western  Isles  invisible. 

24th. — The  day  was  cold  and  raw,  nearly  a  calm.  At  night 
the  sailors  sent  off  a  tar-barrel  with  a  fire  in  it,  which  went 
blazing  along  ;  a  nautical  method  of  celebrating  Christmas  Eve. 

25th. — A  cold  raw  day,  with  rain  and  fog.  Divine  service 
was  performed  in  the  cuddy.     The  sea  almost  a  calm. 

31  St. — 'With  a  fine  wind  we  are  going  nine  knots  off  the 
Lizard,  and  looking  forward  to  the  termination  of  our  voyage ; 
but  I  cannot  quit  the  vessel  without  expressing  how  much  we 
have  been  satisfied  with  all  the  arrangements  on  board,  which 
reflect  great  credit  on  the  owners  of  the  ship  ;  and  how  much 
the  attention  of  the  commanding  officer  to  our  wishes  and 
accommodation  has  removed  the  annoyances  that  old  Indians 
necessarily  must  experience  during  a  sea  voyage :  the  vessel  is 
well  manned,  her  provisions  are  excellent  and  abundant,  every 
attention  is  shown  to  the  passengers,  and  the  "Essex"  is  a 
good  ship. 

1846,  Jan.  1st. — At  6  p.m.,  off"  Portland  Race,  it  was  bitterly 
cold,  and  I  began  to  speculate  if  it  were  possible  to  exist  in 
England. 

2nd. — Off"  Folkstone,  at  2  p.m. — I  quitted  the  "  Essex"  in  a 
Deal  boat,  over  which  the  waves  danced,  and  the  wind  was 
bitterly  cold ;  landed  at  Folkstone  in  about  four  hours,  half 
starved,  cold,  and  hungry,  and  took  refuge  at  the  Pavilion  Hotel, 
where  a  good  dinner  and  the  luxuries  of  native  oysters  and 
fresh  butter  made  us  forget  all  the  ills  that  flesh  is  heir  to. 

3rd. — Started  per  train  at  7  a.m.,  and  found  ourselves  once 
more  in  London. 


\ 


496  WANDERINGS   OF   A    PILGRIM. 


THE  FAREWELL. 

And  now  the  pilgrim  resigns  her  staff  and  plucks  the  scallop- 
shell  from  her  hat, — her  wanderings  are  ended — she  has  quitted 
the  East,  perhaps  for  ever : — surrounded  in  the  quiet  home  of  her 
native  land  by  the  curiosities,  the  monsters,  and  the  idols  that 
accompanied  her  from  India,  she  looks  around  and  dreams  of 
the  days  that  are  gone. 

The  resources  she  finds  in  her  recollections,  the  pleasure  she 
derives  from  her  sketches,  and  the  sad  sea  waves',  her  constant 
companions,  form  for  her  a  life  independent  of  her  own  life. 

"the  narration  of  pleasure  is  better  than  thb  pleasure  itself'." 

And  to  those  kind  friends,  at  whose  request  she  has  published  the 
history  of  her  wanderings,  she  returns  her  warmest  thanks  for 
the  pleasure  the  occupation  has  afforded  her.  She  entreats 
them  to  read  the  pilgrimage  with  the  eye  of  indulgence,  while 
she  remembers  at  the  same  time  that, 

"  HAVING     PUT    HER    HEAD    INTO    THE     MORTAR,    IT   IS    USELESS    TO    DREAD    THE 
SOUND    OF    THE    PESTLE*." 

To  her  dear  and  few  surviving  relatives, — and  to  her  friends  of 
many  years, — the  Pilgrim  bids  adieu  : 

"the    BLESSING   OF    HEAVEN    BE    UPON    THEIR   HEADS*." 

"  Ap  hi  topiyan  par  salamat  rahl" 

"the    PEN    ARRIVED    THUS    FAR    AND  BROKE     ITS    POINT '." 

t.  e.  It  is  finished. 

SALAM !    SALAM ! 


Written  at  St.  Leonard's-on-Sea. 

Oriental  Proverbs,  No,  144.  '  Ibid.  No.  145. 

Ibid.  No.  146.  »  Ibid.  No.  147. 


APPENDIX. 


No.  I. — Copy  of  the  inscription  in  the  church  of  Tanworth,  Warwickshire. 

—Vol.  i.  p.  58. 

"  Heu  Pietas  !  lieu  prisca  Fides  !" 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  Andrew  Lord  Archer,  Baron  of  Umbers- 
lade,  who  died  April  25th,  1778,  setatis  forty-one,  and  lies  interred  in 
the  family  vault  beneath.  He  was  the  last  male  descendant  of  an 
ancient  and  honourable  family  that  came  over  with  William  the  Con- 
queror, and  settled  in  the  county  of  Warwick  in  the  reign  of  King 
Henry  the  Second,  from  whom  his  ancestors  obtained  grants  of  land  in 
the  said  county.  He  married  Sarah,  the  daughter  of  James  West, 
Esquire,  of  Alscot,  by  whom  he  has  left  four  daughters. 

"  To  perpetuate  his  fair  fame  this  monument  is  erected  by  her  who 
knew  and  loved  his  virtues." 

In  the  Peerage  of  England  by  Arthur  Collins,  Esq.,  vol.  vii.  p.  359, 
4th  edition,  is  the  following  account : — 

"  This  family,  one  of  the  most  ancient  in  Warwickshire,  came  out  of 
Normandy,  where  some  of  the  name,  bearing  the  same  arms,  are  yet 
existing.  In  Stow's  Annals,  printed  in  1615,  is  a  list  taken  from  a 
table  anciently  in  Battle  Abbey,  of  those  who  came  into  England  with 
William  Duke  of  Normandy,  in  which  the  name  of  Archer  is  inserted  ; 
also  in  an  ancient  roll,  cited  by  Stow,  of  the  names  of  the  chief  noble- 
men, &c.  who,  in  1066,  accompanied  William  the  Conqueror  into 
England,  collected  by  Thomas  Scriven,  Esq.,  the  name  of  Archer 
occurs." 

Edward  Gwynn,  Esq.,  a  learned  antiquary  in  the  reign  of  King 
James  the  First,  demonstrates  very  clearly,  that  Fulbert  1' Archer,  with 
his  son  Robert,  came  into  England  with  William  the  Conqueror;  and 
that  the  said  Fulbert  was  in  England,  and  of  eminent  degree,  is 
apparent,  by  his  being  witness  to  several  concessions  of  Geffery  de 
VOL.  II.  K  k 


i 


498  APPENDIX. 

Clinton,  a  Norman,  who  was  treasurer  and  lord  chamberlain  to  King 
Henry  the  First,  and  founder  of  the  monastery  of  Kenilworth  in 
Warwickshire. 

Mr.  Gwynn  in  his  dissertation  further  recites,  that  Robert  I'Archer 
also  accompanied  his  father  Fulbert  into  England  with  William  the 
Conqueror ;  and  was  in  such  estimation  for  his  learning,  that  the  said 
king  appointed  him  to  instruct  his  son.  King  Henry  the  First  (then 
prince),  who,  to  his  tutor's  credit,  was  (as  Gemmeticencis  saith)  "  Jus- 
titiae  ac  pacis  sectator,  religionis  amator,  iniquorum,  et  furum  ferventis- 
simus  punitor,  inimicorum  suorum,  non  solum  excellentium  Principum, 
et  Comitum,  verum  et  nominatissimorum  Regum  faelicissimus  Tri- 
umphator."  How  well  he  deserved  the  respect  and  esteem  of  the  said 
prince,  and  how  well  he  was  rewarded  by  him,  when  he  came  to  be  king, 
the  following  grant  fully  manifests  :  "Henricus,  Dei  Gratia,  ^c.  Sciatis  Nos 
dedisse  et  concessisne,  Roberto  I'Archer,  magistro  meo,  et  hcered.  suis,  ^c. 
Manor  de  Aldermanson,  Fynchampsted,  Coletrope,  Speresholt,  Chewlewe, 
^c.  in  com.  Berks."  Which  manors  and  lands  thereunto  belonging  King 
Henry  II.  confirmed  to  William  I'Archer,  his  son.  King  Henry  I.'s 
estimation  of  the  said  Robert  I'Archer,  and  the  account  he  made  of  his 
service,  may  be  conceived  in  vouchsafing  to  call  him  his  master,  also  by 
his  liberal  donations  to  him." 

No.  II. — To  freeze  ice  cream  in  an  English  freezing  pail,  enough  for  a 

large  party. 

The  freezing  pail  should  always  be  of  pewter, — those  from  England 
are  the  best.  The  natives  make  them  of  a  composition  that  answers 
well,  but  it  is  necessary  to  be  careful  in  this  respect,  lest,  having  a  por- 
tion of  lead  in  them,  the  ice  should  be  rendered  poisonous  from  the 
effect  of  the  lime-juice.  The  lid  of  the  freezing  pail  ought  to  be  made 
with  a  catch  to  prevent  its  coming  off  when  the  pail  is  turned  round  by 
the  hand  in  the  bucket  of  ice.  The  freezing  pail  should  be  of  pewter, 
because  it  prevents  the  contents  of  the  vessel  from  congealing  too 
quickly,  and  there  is  time  to  mix  them  thoroughly ;  for  on  this,  in  a 
great  measure,  depends  the  excellence  of  the  ice :  if  it  be  made  of  tin,  the 
congelation  is  too  rapid,  and  the  materials  have  not  time  enough  to 
allow  of  their  being  well  mixed. 

When  an  article  is  iced,  it  does  not  lose  its  sweetness  ;  no  additional 
sugar  or  syrup  is  requisite ;  the  loss  of  sweetness  arises  from  the  mate- 
rials not  being  properly  mixed  or  worked  with  a  bamboo  or  spaddle 
when  in  the  freezing  pail.  The  natives  do  not  open  the  freezing  pail 
and  stir  the  mixture  with  a  spaddle ;  on  the  contrary,  they  fasten  the  lid 
down  securely  by  putting  paste  all  round  the  edges :  consequently,  their 


I 


APPENDIX.  499 

cream  ice  is  as  hard  as  real  ice  itself.     Properly  stirred  it  resembles 
hard  snow,  after  the  fashion  of  the  Parisian  ice  cream. 

No.  III. — Strawberry  or  raspberry  ice  cream. 

Cream  three-fourths,  fresh  milk  one-fourth,  live  large  table-spoon- 
fuls of  jam ;  two  ditto  of  fresh  lime-juice,  one  ditto  of  colouring 
mixture.  If  you  find  it  not  sweet  enough,  add  a  little  syrup  or  melted 
sugar,  not  pounded  sugar.  Beat  the  cream,  milk,  and  jam  through  a 
hair  sieve,  and  mix  them  well ;  add  the  lime-juice  and  the  colouring 
mixture ;  stir  it  well,  and  put  it  into  the  freezing  pail.  The  pail  holds 
about  two  quarts.  Take  a  deep  ice  basket,  lay  a  bazar  blanket  inside, 
place  within  it  a  clean  dry  bucket,  put  the  freezing  pot  into  the  bucket. 

No.  IV. — Freezing  mixture. 

Half  ser  nowshddar  (sal  ammoniac),  one  ser  common  salt,  one  ser 
saltpetre,  with  eight  or  ten  ser  of  ice.  The  saltpetre  and  salt  should  be 
previously  roughly  pounded.  Mix  the  whole  of  this  together  quickly  in 
a  blanket ;  put  the  mixture  into  the  bucket  until  it  is  nearly  up  to  the 
top  and  all  round  the  freezing  pail ;  turn  the  freezing  pail  round  and 
round  in  the  mixture,  holding  it  by  the  handle  for  ten  minutes,  then 
leave  it  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  cover  the  top  with  ice ;  cover  up  all 
inside  with  the  blanket,  and  put  on  the  cover  of  the  ice  basket ;  do  not 
let  it  stand  near  a  tatti.  In  the  course  of  ten  minutes  or  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  open  the  freezing  pail,  stir  the  cream  round  with  a  long  wooden 
spoon,  or  a  bit  of  bamboo,  cut  flat,  or  a  spaddle.  You  will  find  it  has 
congealed  on  the  sides,  but  not  in  the  centre ;  remove  the  spoon,  put  on 
the  lid,  turn  the  pail  round  for  a  short  time,  and  cover  it  up  again ;  this 
must  be  repeated  until  the  cream  is  properly  frozen,  when  it  is  fit  for 
use.  Should  the  cream  not  have  frozen  properly,  the  freezing  mixture, 
if  any  remain  over,  or  more  ice,  may  be  put  into  the  bucket.  In  about 
an  hour,  or  a  little  more,  the  cream  ice  will  be  ready.  It  should 
not  be  made  until  just  before  it  is  required  for  use. 

Cream  ices  may  be  made  with  strawberry,  raspberry,  or  any  other 
jam  in  the  above  manner.  The  jam  imported  from  France  is  finer  and 
more  reasonable  than  that  sent  from  England. 

No.  V. — To  freeze  two  quarts  of  strawberry  cream  in  a  native  kulfi. 

The  khansamans  make  ice  in  a  pewter  vessel,  called  a  kulft ;  it  con- 
tains a  quart,  and  ought  to  have  a  removable  lid.  The  bottom  of  the 
kulfi  should  be  a  fixture.  For  two  kulfis  of  this  size  take  eight  chhattaks 
of  saltpetre,  eight  ditto  salt,  four  ditto  nowshddar  (sal  ammoniac) ;  mix 
them  together,  having  first  pounded  them  separately.    Mix  these  ingredi- 

K  k  2 


500  APPENDIX. 

ents  with  ice  sufficient  to  fill  an  earthenware  pan,  that  with  a  bfoad  mouth 
will  hold  two  kulfls  standing  erect  in  it.  Having  put  your  kulfis  in  the 
jar,  surround  them  with  ice  nearly  to  the  rim;  put  the  remainder 
of  the  ice  into  a  napkin,  and  lay  it  over  the  top  of  the  kulfis ;  then 
cover  over  the  whole  with  an  earthenware  cover.  Open  the  kulfis  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  and  stir  the  cream  with  a  flat  bamboo,  which  is  a 
better  thing  than  a  spoon  for  the  purpose ;  cover  them  up ;  open  again 
in  another  quarter  of  an  hour,  stir,  and  leave  them  for  four  hours ;  no 
fresh  ice  need  be  added. 

For  one  kulfl  half  the  quantity  of  the  mixture,  and  a  smaller  earthen- 
ware pan. 

To  keep  the  whole  from  the  effect  of  the  air  and  the  tatti,  it  is  better 
to  place  a  bazar  blanket  in  an  ice-basket,  then  put  in  the  earthenware 
pan,  and  having  done  all  as  above  directed,  cover  the  whole  up  with 
the  blanket,  and  put  on  the  cover  of  the  ice-basket.  (See  Ice-pits, 
Vol.  i.  pp.  76—84.) 

Nos.  VI.  VII.  VIII.  IX.  X.— See  G,  A.  Jarrin's  Italian  Confectioner, 
pp.  123 — 133.  Also  p.  229,  for  colouring  ice  with  cochineal,  i.e. 
kirmiz  i  farangi. 

No.  XI. — To  lacquer  boxes. — Vol.  i.  p.  113. 

Make  your  coloured  wax  of  the  best,  clearest,  and  picked  Chuppra 
lakh,  only  adding  the  colour  necessary ;  whilst  the  box  is  on  the  lathe, 
having  put  a  bit  or  two  of  lighted  charcoal  under  it,  turn  the  lathe, 
press  the  wax  upon  the  box,  the  wax  will  come  off  and  lacquer  it ;  polish 
and  smooth  it  with  the  dried  leaf  of  the  dlu. 

No.  XII. — Karand patthar,  corundum  stone,  or  adamantine  spar. — 

Vol.  i.  p.  114. 

The  cheapness  and  abundance  of  emery  in  Europe,  and  its  being 
nearly  equal  to  corundum  in  hardness,  have,  perhaps,  prevented  the 
Indian  corundum  from  being  brought  home ;  but  there  appears  every 
probability  that  the  substance  which  has  been  lately  sold  at  a  high  price 
in  small  quantities,  under  the  name  of  diamond  powder,  said  to  be  from 
the  diamond  mines  of  India,  and  applied  to  the  purpose  of  sharpening 
razors  and  other  cutlery,  is  nothing  else  than  corundum  reduced  to  a 
fine  powder.  The  common  karand  patthar  of  India,  the  corundum  or 
adamantine  spar,  so  named  from  its  hardness,  will  cut  and  polish  all 
stones  except  the  diamond.  By  the  natives  it  is  used  with  oil  for  removing 
rust  from  steel,  after  which  the  steel  is  re-polished  with  buffalo  horn  and 
a  semicircular  steel  insitrument. 


APPENDIX.  501 

No.  XIII. — Indian  method  of  washing  the  hair. — Vol.  i.  p.  136. 

A  quarter  of  a  ser  of  basun,  the  yolks  of  two  large  eggs  (no  whites), 
the  juice  of  two  or  three  limes ;  mix  the  whole  in  a  basin  with  cold 
water,  add  some  hot  water,  strain  it  through  a  towel.  Rub  it  well  into 
the  roots  of  the  hair,  and  wash  it  out  by  pouring  warm  water  over  the 
head,  until  the  hair  is  perfectly  clean.  The  operation  is  most  agreeably 
performed  in  a  hummdm.  In  a  bathing-room  it  is  necessary  to  have 
ready  prepared  six  kedgerl  pots  of  boiling  water,  which  can  be  mixed 
afterwards  with  cold.  Having  thoroughly  dried  the  hair,  put  a  small 
quantity  of  oil  upon  it.  Use  no  soap.  Basun  is  the  pounded  and 
sifted  meal  of  gram,  i.  e.  chand. 

No.  XIV. — Take  seven  gelds  (seed  of  mimosa  scandens),  break  and  put 
the  kernels  into  a  chhattak  of  water  for  a  night ;  pound  them,  arid 
strain  through  muslin ;  add  the  juice  of  four  or  five  limes,  and  the 
yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs  ;  wash  the  hair  with  the  mixture. 

No.  XV. — Ink  for  taking  impressions  off  Hindustani  seals. — Vol.  i.  p.  142. 

Lampblack,  one  paisd,  gond,  {i.e.  gum  of  the  babul,or  gum  Arabic,)  two 
chhattaks.  Having  ground  both,  dry  the  whole  on  a  plantain  leaf.  Mix 
two  paisd  of  water  with  one  of  the  mixture  ;  boil,  and  strain  it  for  use.  If 
not  good  add  one  grain  of  salt.  Lampblack  made  in  unglazed  pans  is 
better  than  any  other.  The  ink  should  be  put  on  the  seal  with  the 
point  of  the  finger.  It  should  be  very  black,  and  thick;  but  put 
on  very  thinly.  The  paper  to  be  wetted  with  water  on  a  bit  of  muslin, 
and  just  patted  down  before  the  seal  is  pressed  on  the  spot.  If  the 
paper  come  off  on  the  seal  the  former  is  not  damp  enough.  Use  thick 
Chinese  paper,  or  common  writing  paper. 

No.  XVI. — To  recover  tlie  ink  of  faded  ivriting. — Vol.  i.  pp.  175,  176. 

Fill  up  one  quarter  of  a  pint  bottle  with  pounded  gall  nuts,  add 
spirits  of  wine  or  gin  to  fill  the  bottle.  Put  the  letter  in  a  plate,  and 
cover  it  with  the  mixture ;  after  a  short  time  the  writing  will  become 
visible. 

No.  XVII.— Vol.  i.  p.  114. 
Because  a  woman  is  a  she-wdld  {wdld,  a  fellow). 

No.  XWU.— Treatment  of  cholera.— Vol  i.  p.  203. 

Our  medical  adviser  said,  he  considered  the  best  treatment  was,  "  to 
give  forty  measured  drops  of  laudanum  in  a  glassful   of  brandy   and 


502  APPENDIX. 

water  every  time  the  bowels  are  moved,  which  is  preferable  to  giving  a 
greater  quantity,  as  that  would  produce  drowsiness.  You  give  opium 
to  abate  pain  and  stop  the  sickness,  not  to  dull  the  senses,  which  are  too 
dull  already.  After  the  first  few  evacuations,  all  that  follow  are  like 
pipeclay  and  water, — one  of  the  signs  of  cholera." 

Spirits  of  hartshorn  in  water  we  found  very  beneficial  to  the  natives. 
Colonel  Gardner  said,  "Haifa  wine  glass  of  the  juice  of  onions,  rubbed 
up  with  ginger,  red  and  black  pepper,  and  garlic,  I  have  seen  adminis- 
tered in  desperate  cases  of  cholera  with  great  success." 

No.  XIX. — To  prepare  skeleton  peepul  leaves. — Vol.  i.  p.  218. 

Put  a  quantity  of  the  fresh  and  finest  leaves  of  the  peepul  into  a  pan, 
containing  two  or  three  quarts  of  water.  Leave  the  pan  in  some  distant 
part  of  the  garden  until  the  water  wastes  away,  and  the  green  of  the 
leaves  is  corrupt.  In  ten  days'  time  take  up  a  leaf,  and  if  the  green 
comes  ofi^,  leaving  the  fibres  perfect,  it  is  time  to  remove  the  leaves ;  but 
if  any  of  the  green  still  adhere,  replace  the  leaf,  and  let  the  whole  remain 
in  the  dirty  water  for  another  ten  days ;  after  which  take  them  out, 
wash  them  with  pure  water,  and  with  a  soft  toothbrush  gently  brush  off 
any  part  of  the  green  that  may  still  adhere  to  the  fibres.  Leave  them 
in  clean  water  for  some  days,  and  brush  them  daily,  very  gently,  sepa- 
rately, and  carefully,  until  the  skeleton  is  quite  perfect.  If  not  of  a  good 
colour  bleach  them  by  exposure  to  the  sun,  and  pour  water  over  them 
now  and  then  during  the  exposure. 

No.  XX. —  To  copy  dramngs  with  talk — i.e.  talc. — Vol.  i.  p.  219. 

First  make  your  lampblack  in  this  manner :  Put  a  cotton  wick  into  an 
earthen  saucer,  such  as  are  put  under  flower-pots,  put  common  oil 
into  the  saucer,  light  the  wick,  and  place  over  it  another  earthen  saucer,  so 
that  the  flame  may  blacken  it ;  in  a  few  hours  a  quantity  of  lampblack 
will  collect  on  the  upper  saucer,  which  is  of  the  very  best  sort.  Mix  a 
little  of  this  lampblack  with  fine  linseed  oil,  dip  your  pen  into  it,  and 
trace  on  the  talk  with  it,  having  first  put  your  talk  over  the  drawing  you 
wish  to  copy.  When  you  take  ofl'  the  talk,  if  you  put  white  paper 
beneath  it,  you  will  see  if  any  part  require  to  be  darkened  :  touch  the 
distances  lightly,  and  the  foregrounds  strongly.  Be  careful  not  to  put 
too  much  oil  with  the  lampblack,  or  it  will  run,  and  spoil  the  drawing. 
Having  finished  your  tracing,  damp  a  piece  of  China  paper  with  a 
sponge,  put  it  on  the  talk  while  it  is  vei-y  damp,  take  care  not  to  stir  it, 
put  another  piece  of  paper  over  it,  and  pass  your  hand  steadily  over  all, 
when  the  impression  will  come  ofl"  good  and  clear.     Patterns  for  work 


APPENDIX.  503 

may  be  copied  in  this  manner :  of  course  every  thing  is  reversed.     Ivory 
black  will  not  answer. 

No.  XXI. — To  take  off  the  impression  from  leaves  and  flowers. — 

Vol.  i,  p.  219. 

Make  your  lampblack  as  above  directed.  Make  two  balls,  about  the  size 
of  your  fist,  with  wool  and  wash-leather  ;  put  a  bit  of  stick  into  the  centre 
of  each,  to  serve  as  a  handle,  and  tie  the  leather  tight  upon  it ;  flatten  it 
to  the  shape  of  a  printer's  ball ;  the  top  of  a  white  leather  long  glove 
will  do,  or  chamois  leather.  With  a  spatula  mix  some  lampblack  with 
a  little  linseed  oil,  put  it  on  the  balls,  rub  both  balls  together  until  it  is 
all  smooth  and  even,  put  a  freshly-gathered  leaf  between  the  balls,  pat 
the  leaf  on  both  sides,  put  it  between  two  sheets  of  paper,  rub  your 
finger  carefully  over  the  leaf;  take  up  the  paper,  and  you  will  have  two 
beautiful  impressions.  Stalks  and  flowers  may  be  done  in  the  same 
way,  and  corrected  with  a  pen  and  some  of  the  oil  and  lampblack.  The 
Chinese  books  sold  in  the  burd  bazar,  Calcutta,  are  excellent  for  this 
purpose. 

No.  XXII. — To  arrange  a  turban. — Vol.  i.  p.  234. 

The  turban  should  be  of  fine  India  muslin,  twenty-one  yards  in 
length,  by  fourteen  inches  and  a  half  in  breadth.  Take  one  end,  put  it 
over  your  head,  allowing  a  quarter  of  a  yard  to  hang  down  your  back  ; 
twist  the  muslin  in  front  of  your  forehead,  so  that  it  may  form  a  sort  of 
skull  cap  on  the  top  of  your  head ;  after  which,  begin  to  bind 
the  turban  round  your  head,  and  go  on,  until,  in  fanciful  bands,  you 
have  used  up  the  whole.  Take  the  little  end  hanging  down  your  back, 
turn  it  up,  and  stick  it  under  one  of  the  folds.  This  turban,  when 
properly  put  on,  is  not  at  all  large.  Should  it  not  set  out  enough,  you 
must  first  bind  a  smaller  and  coarser  turban  around  your  head,  and  put 
the  fine  one  over  it.  A  Benares  gold  turban,  or  a  Bengal  muslin, 
spotted  in  gold,  should  be  worn  over  a  turban  of  this  sort ;  they  are  too 
flimsy  to  set  properly  of  their  own  accord.  A  long  fine  Cashmere  shawl 
forms  into  a  beautiful  turban. 

Another  method. — Turbans  are  more  generally  put  on  in  this  manner 
than  in  the  preceding:  Take  the  middle  of  the  cloth,  put  it  over- the 
front  of  the  head,  and  pass  the  two  ends  behind.  Take  one  end,  and 
pass  it  round  and  round  your  head  until  it  is  all  used  up  ;  after  which 
take  the  other  end,  and  pass  it  round  in  some  different  fashion ;  when 
you  have  used  it  all  up  it  ought  to  set  properly. 

Almost  all  turbans  are  thus  put  on,  with  the  exception  of  stiff"  turbans. 


504  APPENDIX. 

which  are  made  over  a  bamboo  frame ;  they  are  formal,  and  want  the 
graceful  and  fanciful  ease  of  a  turban  formed  of  a  strip  of  muslin  hastily 
thrown  around  the  head. 

Some  are  formed  on  a  light  wicker  frame;  others,  made  up  by 
regular  turban  makers  in  the  bazar,  are  formed  on  blocks,  and  the 
muslin  is  plaited  and  put  on  in  a  very  exact  and  regular  style. 
Some  turbans  appear  as  if  formed  of  coloured  rope,  so  tightly  do  they 
twist  the  muslin  into  a  cord  ere  it  is  wound  round  the  head. 

No.  XXIII. — The  Coles,  the  Bheels,  the  Gonds,  the  Khonds,  ^c. — 

Vol.  i.  p.  236. 

AN  EXTRACT  FROM  "THE  TIMES,"  NOV.  23,  1847. 

"  Our  readers  are  aware  that  the  Hindoos  are  not  the  aboriginal 
inhabitants  of  India.  Arriving  from  the  north-west,  they  first  occupied 
that  moiety  of  the  peninsula  to  the  north  of  the  Nerbudda  called  em- 
phatically Hindostan,  and  subsequently  crossed  that  river  into  the 
Deccan,  or  '  south'  portion  of  the  country,  where  they  dispossessed  the 
natives  as  before.  There  are  reasons  for  concluding  that  this  expulsion 
of  the  early  inhabitants  by  the  Brahminical  Hindoos  was  characterized 
by  great  ferocity  on  the  part  of  the  invaders.  The  inferior  tribes,  how- 
ever, were  by  no  means  exterminated.  Under  the  various  denominations 
of  Bheels,  Coles,  Gonds,  Khonds,  &c.,  they  still  exist  in  the  peninsula, 
to  the  number,  it  is  computed,  of  at  the  least  two  or  three  millions. 
Whether  they  are  branches  of  the  same  family  or  not  appears  hardly 
ascertained,  but  they  all  possess  features  in  common,  and  are  altogether 
distinct,  not  only  from  the  Hindoo,  but  also  from  the  Thibetan  varieties 
of  native  tribes  near  the  Himalayan  range.  They  are  small,  dark,  and 
active,  with  a  peculiarly  quick  and  restless  eye,  highly  barbarous,  and 
owning  only  a  few  importations  of  Hindoo  superstitions  or  civilization. 
They  have  little  clothing,  few  arms  but  bows  and  arrows,  and  no 
ordinary  food  beyond  berries  or  game.  They  have  no  repugnance  to 
killing  or  eating  oxen,  and  bury  their  dead  instead  of  burning  them. 
Their  religious  rites  involve  much  greater  barbarism  than  the  Brah- 
minical precepts;  indeed,  it  is  alleged  by  the  advocates  of  Hindoo 
excellence  that  the  most  objectionable  practices  attributed  to  the  disciples 
of  Brahma  have  either  been  imported  from  these  tribes  at  a  late  period, 
or  erroneously  related  by  writers  who  confused  the  identity  of  the 
nations.  This  is  said  to  have  been  particularly  the  case  with  human 
sacrifices,  which  had  no  place  in  the  original  code  of  the  Vedas,  while 
they  were  so  inveterately  established  among  these  older  tribes,  that  the 
disturbances  of  the  present  day  have  actually  originated  ia  the  defence 


APPENDIX.  505 

of  the  rite.  The  main  retreat  of  these  people  from  the  persecution  of 
the  invaders  was  in  the  hills,  which,  under  the  names  of  the  Vindhya 
and  Santpoora  ranges,  rise  on  each  bank  of  the  Nerbudda,  and  form  the 
bai'rier  between  the  Deccan  and  Hindostan.  At  the  eastern  extremity 
these  hills  expand  into  a  lofty  mountain  rampart  on  the  confines  of 
Orissa  and  Berar,  forming,  with  the  contiguous  districts,  the  most  bar- 
barous and  unreclaimed  portion  of  the  whole  peninsula.  Much  of  it, 
in  fact,  is  unexplored  to  this  day,  as  may  be  seen  by  a  glance,  in  any 
map,  along  the  western  frontier  of  Orissa.  Such  are  the  actors,  and 
such  the  scene  of  the  present  disturbances,  A  few  words  more  will 
explain  their  origin  and  character. 

"  The  eastern  coast  of  India  between  the  Delta  of  the  Ganges  and 
the  mouths  of  the  Kistna  came  into  our  possession  by  successive  instal- 
ments. In  1765  the  sagacity  of  Lord  Clive  demanded,  and  his  power 
obtained,  the  cession  of  that  maritime  province  known  by  the  name  of 
the  Northern  Circars,  previously  attached  to  the  Government  of  the 
Deccan,  but  readily  and  cheaply  yielded  by  the  emperor  to  the  request 
of  the  victorious  general.  This  carried  the  Madras  presidency  along 
the  coast  nearly  up  to  the  confines  of  Bengal ;  the  sole  interruptions  to 
a  continuity  of  English  territory  being  the  Southern  Sircar  of  Guntoor 
at  the  lower  end,  still  depending  on  the  Deccan,  and  the  province  of 
Cuttack  at  the  upper,  claimed  by  the  Mahratta  Prince  of  Berar.  The 
former,  after  considerable  turmoil  on  both  sides,  was  surrendered  by 
Nizam  Ali  in  1788,  and  the  latter  by  Bhonslay  at  the  end  of  the 
first  great  Mahratta  war  of  1803.  The  contiguous  districts,  forming 
part  of  the  ceded  territories,  were  restored  by  the  policy  of  Sir  G.  Barlow, 
and  did  not  finally  return  to  us  till  the  conclusion  of  the  war  of  1818, 
when  the  inveterate  hostility  of  Apa  Saheb  was  punished  by  the  demand 
of  these  peculiar  territories  on  the  Nerbudda,  solely  valuable  as  opening 
a  communication  between  Bengal  and  Bombay.  We  found  the  eastern 
country  in  the  hands  of  petty  Rajahs  of  ancient  standing,  and  some 
consideration  amongst  their  subjects,  though  they  were  not  of  the  abori- 
ginal race,  but  individual  families  (apparently  Rajpoots)  of  the  invading 
nation  who  had  contrived  to  establish  themselves  in  hereditary  power 
amongst  the  savages.  As  long  as  we  were  content  to  allow  these  people 
their  ancient  licence,  to  accept  a  small  uncertain  subsidy  by  way  of  rent, 
and  leave  them  to  their  own  privileges  and  habits,  things  went  Well 
enough  ;  but  as  soon  as  the  more  scrupulous  civilization  of  later  times 
introduced  or  attempted  reforms,  disturbances  at  once  ensued.  A  settle- 
ment of  a  fixed,  though  not  extortionate,  rent  was  imposed  upon  the 
Rajahs,  and  when  tliis  fell  seriously  in  arrear  they  were  dispossessed. 
Police  were  introduced  in  some  of  the  villages,  and  civil  courts  esta- 


506  APPENDIX. 

blished.  The  consequences  were  speedily  visible.  In  1816  the  Goom- 
soor  people  rose  in  arms  to  demand  an  ejected  Rajah;  and  though 
a  force  of  3000  men  in  the  country  repressed  these  outbreaks,  yet 
they  could  not  be  prevented  from  aiding  a  similar  insurrection  in 
Cuttack  immediately  afterwards,  nor  was  peace  entirely  restored  for. 
three  long  years,  and  then  only  after  some  conciliatory  abolitions  of 
the  obnoxious  institutions. 

"In  the  present  case  the  rebellion  (in  Goomsoor)  is  based  on  our 
interference  with  their  Meriah  sacrifices,  in  observance  of  which  rite 
they  store,  fatten,  butcher,  and  dissect  some  hundreds  of  children 
annually,  distributing  the  fragments,  as  a  propitiatory  offer  to  the  local 
Ceres,  over  the  surface  of  their  fields,  and  the  old  cry  for  their  indulgent 
Rajahs  is  again  raised.  The  Khonds — the  precise  tribe  who  gave  us  so 
much  trouble  in  1816 — are  again  the  chief  insurgents,  though  common 
cause  is  eagerly  made  by  all  their  neighbours.  Their  method  of  fighting 
is  to  lurk  in  their  tangled  thickets  and  shoot  their  arrows  from  the 
ambuscade.  Recently,  too,  they  exchanged  a  herd  of  bullocks  which 
they  captured,  for  some  firearms,  and  they  are  said  now  to  possess 
some  700  or  800  matchlocks.  This,  of  course,  does  not  make  them  less 
noxious,  but  their  offensive  warfare  forms  but  a  small  part  of  the  dangers 
of  the  campaign.  The  tracts  about  which  they  roam  are,  beyond  all 
comparison,  the  most  pestilential  in  India.  The  air  of  Shikarpoor  is 
bracing  and  salubrious  compared  with  the  atmosphere  of  these  terri- 
tories. The  malaria  of  their  jungles  is  almost  certain  death,  and  a  bivouac 
in  the  bush  will  cause  far  more  havoc  in  an  invading  force  than  a 
battery  of  cannon.  In  addition  to  this,  beasts  of  prey  swarm  in  every 
cave  and  forest,  numerous  and  ravenous  enough  to  give  a  clean  account 
of  all  stragglers.  The  ordinary  briefness  of  an  Indian  campaign  is  here 
80  far  circumscribed,  that  there  are  very  few  weeks  in  the  year  when  an 
inroad  would  even  be  attempted,  and  at  this  moment  not  200  men  of 
the  regiment  employed  there  are  fit  for  duty. 

"The  Khonds  are  in  nowise  disaffected  to  us,  nationally.  On  the 
contrary,  when  Sir  G.  Barlow  surrendered  their  country  again  to  Berao, 
against  our  compact  and  their  entreaties,  he  was  forced  in  decency  to 
offer  a  home  in  Cuttack  to  those  who  chose  still  to  live  under  English 
rule,  and  the  struggle  between  the  latter  wish  and  the  reluctance  to  quit 
their  birthplaces  produced  some  very  tragical  scenes.  Towards  the 
•west,  too,  the  Bheels  are  enrolled  in  local  corps  in  the  Company's 
service,  and  conduct  themselves  with  very  great  credit.  The  only  rebel- 
lion is  that  of  a  hardy,  barbarous,  and  inaccessible  race,  against  masters 
whose  supremacy  they  gladly  own,  but  whose  civilization  they  are 
averse  to  borrowing." 


APPENDIX.  507 

No.  XXlV.-Bengal  coins.— \o\.  i.  p.  273. 

4  kauris     =:  1  gunda. 
20  gundas  =  1  pun. 
4  puns       =  1  ana. 

4  anas       =  1  kahan,     1280    kauris,     or     about     one 
quarter  of  a  rupi. 
Kauris,  small  white  glossy  shells,  are  made  use  of  for  small  payments 
in  the  bazar.     They  rise  and  fall  according  to  the  demand  there  is  for 
them,  and  the  quantity  in  the  market. 

Accounts  are  kept  in  rupis,  with  their  subdivisions. 

3  pie       =:  1  paisa. 

4  paisa  :=  1  ana. 
16  anas    =  1  rupi. 

16  rupis  =:  1  gold  muhr. 
100,000    „       =1  Ukh. 

100  lakh    =  1  karor,  or  100,000,000  rupis. 

No.  XXV. —Easy  method  of  preserving  small  birds. — Vol.  i.  p.  289. 

Birds  to  the  size  of  a  pigeon  may  be  preserved  from  putrefac- 
tion by  an  easy  process,  and  by  a  method  which  will  effectually  guard 
them  against  the  attacks  of  insects.  Carefully  remove  the  abdominal 
viscera  at  the  vent,  by  means  of  a  wire  bent  to  a  hook  at  one  end ;  then 
introduce  a  small  piece  of  the  antiseptic  paste,  and  afterwards  as  much 
clipped  cotton  or  tow  as  may  be  thought  sufficient,  with  some  of  the 
paste  mixed  with  it;  remove  the  eyes  and  fill  the  orbits  with  cotton 
imbued  with  the  paste ;  draw  out  the  tongue,  which  remove,  and  pass 
a  wire  from  the  mouth  into  the  cavity  of  the  cranium,  merely  to  give 
the  antiseptic  access  to  the  brain ;  bind  a  piece  of  thread  round  the 
rostrum,  another  piece  round  the  body  and  wings ;  then  hang  it  up  by 
the  legs,  and  pour  in  at  the  vent  from  half  an  ounce  to  two  ounces, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  bird,  of  alcohol ;  let  it  be  hung  in  an  airy 
situation,  and  it  will  soon  dry  without  any  unpleasant  smell. 

No.  XXVI. — Antiseptic  paste. 

Antiseptic  paste  is  made  by  mixing  eight  parts  of  finely-powdered 
white  arsenic,  four  parts  of  Spanish  soap,  three  parts  of  camphor  pul- 
verized in  a  mortar,  with  a  few  drops  of  alcohol,  and  one  part  of  soft 
soap.     If  it  become  too  dry  add  a  little  spirits  of  wine. 

No.  XXYll.— Arsenical  soap.— Vol.  i.  p.  289. 
Powdered  arsenic    one   pound,   white   Marseilles   soap   one  pound, 


508  APPENDIX. 

powdered  camphor  three  ounces ;  fine  lime,  in  powder,  three  ounces ; 
salt  of  tartar,  six  ounces ;  keep  it  corked  in  a  jar.  Melt  the 
soap,  and  gradually  mix  the  other  ingredients.  When  required  to  be 
used,  take  a  little  out,  mix  it  with  water  until  it  is  of  the  consistence 
of  thick  cream ;  spread  on  the  skin  thinly  with  a  brush.  By  using  too 
much  you  render  the  skin  brittle — put  a  little  cotton  wool  on  the  part 
when  done.  Useful  for  the  skins  of  quadrupeds,  large  birds,  and  also  for 
insects,  moths,  and  butterflies. 

No.  XXVIII.— Dye /or  the  moustache.— Vol.  i.  p.  319. 

Mix  one  ser  of  large  hurs  [hura,  ink-nut,  myrobalan  chebulic)  with  half 
apfiisa  weight  oi  ghi,  fry  them  until  they  are  quite  black  and  split,  take 
them  out  and  cover  them  over  with  red-hot  charcoal  ashes  at  night. 
Wipe  them  clean,  and  separate  the  pulp,  which  reduce  to  a  subtile 
powder  in  an  iron  mortar ;  add  to  every  told  of  the  above  powder  three- 
fourths  of  a  masha  of  tutiyd  td'usi,  and  half  a  masha  of  salt. 

When  you  wish  to  dye  your  hair,  take  some  of  the  powder,  mix  it 
with  water  so  as  to  form  an  unctuous  paste,  and  grind  it  very  fine  in  an 
iron  mortar;  apply  it  to  the  hair,  and  tie  it  up  with  fresh-gathered 
castor  oil  leaves.  Should  the  hair  not  be  dyed  as  required,  wet  the  hair 
with  water,  as  also  the  leaves,  and  tie  it  up  again,  as  the  dye  will  not 
have  the  desired  efiect  if  the  hair  be  not  kept  moist  with  it.  The 
mortar  must  be  of  iron,  or  the  mixture  will  be  spoiled. 

Eight  rattis  (seed  of  abrus  precatorius)  make  one  masha,  twelve  and 
a  half  mdshas  one  told  or  sicca  rupi  weight. 

No.  XXIX. — To  dye  the  beard  and  moustache. — Vol.  i.  p.  320, 

Boil  four  or  five  anolas  (myrobalan  emblic,  Lin.)  for  a  short  time  in 
water,  till  they  impart  their  colour  to  it.  Grind  up  indigo  leaves 
[busmuK)  on  a  sil  (a  rough  slab  of  stone,  with  a  stone  roller),  with  the 
above  decoction,  and  use  the  preparation  as  a  dye,  after  having  exposed 
it  to  the  sun  for  a  short  time.  This  receipt  was  given  me  by  Seyd 
Husain,  an  old  peshkdr  at  Prag. 

No.  XXX. — Perfumed  tobacco  cakes. — Vol.  ii.  p.  8. 

Tobacco,  one  miin;  gurh  (thick  sugar),  one  miin ;  gulkand  (gulabt) 
conserve  of  roses,  ten  sers;  gulkand  {seo),  five  sers ;  pauri,  three  tolds  ; 
,*musk,  one  told;  amber,  one  ditto  ;  ugur,  pdo  bur,i.e.  a  quarter  of  a  told; 
lugger,  one  quarter  of  a  told. 

The  tobacco  and  gour  to  be  mixed,  and  left  in  a  ghard  for  five  days, 
the  other  ingredients  to  be  then  added,  and  the  whole  buried  for  ten 
days  before  use.     One  of  the  cakes  is  sufficient  for  a  quart  bottle  of 


APPENDIX.  509 

rosewater,  into  which  it  is  to  be  broken  ;  and  in  this  state  of  solution  it 
is  sufficient  to  impregnate  with  its  flavour  a  miin  of  tobacco.  This 
receipt  was  procured  from  one  of  the  attendants  on  her  Highness  the 
Baiza  Ba'i. 

No.  XXXI. — Authorities  quoted  in  the  Work. — Vol.  ii.  p.  181. 

"  Moor's  Hindu  Pantheon ;"  "  Ward,  On  the  Religion,  &c.,  of  the 
Hindoos  ;"  "  Wilford's  Dissertation  on  Egypt  and  the  Nile;"  "Asiatic 
Researches ;"  "  Maurice's  Indian  Antiquities ;"  "  Frazer's  Tour  through 
the  Himalaya  Mountains ;"  "  Capt.  J.  A.  Hodgson's  Survey  of  the 
Ganges  and  Jumna ;"  "  Adam's  Roman  Antiquities ;"  "  Mishcat  ul 
Masabih  ;"  "  Dow's  History  of  Hindostan  ;"  "  Tod's  Annals  and  Anti- 
quities of  Rajah'stan,"  and  "  Travels  in  Western  India ;"  "  Herklot's 
Qunoon-e-islam ;"  "Franklin's  Shah  Alum,"  and  "Life  of  George 
Thomas;"  "The  Ku'ran;"  "Ainslie's  Materia  Medica;"  "Louden's 
Encyclopedia  of  Plants." 

No.   XXXII. — Extracts  from  "  The  History  of  Delhie,  and  adjacent 
Ruins ;"  a  manuscript,  by  Colonel  Franklin. — Vol.  ii.  p.  222. 

"The  tomb  of  Imam  Mirmaun  is  a  lofty  building  of  red  granite, 
close  to  the  Kutb  Minar.  This  saint  is  said  to  have  lived  in  the  reign 
of  Altumush." 

"  The  mausoleum  of  the  monarch  Altumush  is  about  four  hundred 
yards  south-west  of  the  Kutb  Minar.  The  walls  are  of  granite,  the 
tomb  of  plain  marble,  and  there  is  no  dome  to  the  building." 

"Near  this  is  an  octagonal  building,  the  tomb  of  Adam  Khan,  a 
Pathan  nobleman,  who  was  high  in  the  confidence  of  Altumush." 

"The  tomb  of  the  saint  Kutb-u-Din  is  of  white  marble,  and  a  fine 
mosque  of  red  granite  adjoins  it.  The  court  of  the  mosque  contains  the 
tombs  of  the  Emperor  Bahadur  Shah,  who  died  in  1707,  and  the  Emperor 
Alum  Shah,  deceased  1807 ;  and  also  that  of  the  last  Emperor,  Akbar 
Shah." 

"  Connected  with  these  tombs  is  a  small  marble  mosque,  built  by 
Aurangzeb,  the  father  of  Bahadur  Shah.  The  marble  enclosure  where 
the  body  of  saint  Kutb  reposes  was  built  by  Ferocksher,  who  was 
assassinated  by  the  Syuds  of  Burrah,  in  1713.  Zabtah  Khan,  father  of 
the  infamous  Gholam  Khadir  Ali  Bahadur,  and  a  number  of  other 
nobles,  with  many  of  the  royal  family,  are  interred  in  the  area.  It  is 
reported  that  three  hundred  thousand  martyrs  to  the  Muhammadan 
faith  are  buried  in  this  vicinity;  in  the  number  must  be  included  those 
who  fell  in  the  eight  battles  fought  with  Raja  Pittourah,  by  Kutb-u-Din 
Abeck." 


510  APPENDIX. 

"  Tuglukabad  was  built  by  the  Patan  Emperor,  Yeas-u-Din  Tugliik 
Shah,  who  died  in  1324.  The  place  is  a  mass  of  ruins  ;  the  palace  was 
large  and  extensive ;  four  massive  bastions  still  remain.  On  a  detached 
rock,  connected  with  the  palace  by  a  causeway,  is  the  tomb  of  Tugluk 
Shah ;  the  rock  is  enclosed  by  a  rampart  of  stone,  with  circular  bastions. 
To  the  east  of  Tuglukabad  few  ruins  are  to  be  seen,  but  thence  to 
beyond  the  Shalimar  gardens,  to  the  west,  a  distance  of  about  twenty- 
five  miles,  the  whole  face  of  the  country  is  one  sheet  of  ruined  palaces, 
gardens,  streets,  and  tombs." 

"  The  Kutb  Minar  is  about  twelve  miles  south-east  of  Delhi,  and 
half-way  is  the  mausoleum  of  Munsoor  Ali  Khan  Sufdar  Jung,  Wuzeer 
of  the  Emperor  Ahmud  Shah,  who  died  1753.  It  is  a  fine  edifice 
raised  on  a  terrace." 

"The  tomb  that  contains  the  body  of  Sufdar  Jung  is  on  the  ground- 
floor  ;  the  marble  cenotaph  is  in  the  apartment  above  it.  To  the  east 
the  entrance  is  through  a  noble  gateway,  to  the  north  of  which  is 
the  mosque. 

"  About  two  hundred  yards  from  this  is  the  mausoleum  of  the  great 
Byram  Khan,  khdn-khdnan  and  guardian  to  Mahomed  Akbar.  The 
colours  of  the  enamel  of  the  inside  of  the  dome  over  Secunder  Shah, 
one  of  the  Pathan  dynasty,  deceased  1275,  are  as  fresh  as  ever.  This 
mausoleum  is  a  very  fine  one ;  it  lies  about  half  a  mile  north-west  of 
Sufdar  Jung's." 

"  The  tomb  of  the  saint  Nizam-u-Din,  who  lived  in  the  reign  of 
Secunder  Shah,  lies  about  half  a  mile  east-south-east  of  Humaioon's; 
and  adjoining  is  the  tomb  of  the  Princess  Jahanara,  as  well  as  that  of 
the  Emperor  Mahomed  Shah,  deceased  1748.  Here  also  is  the  tomb 
of  the  famous  poet  Chusero,  who  flourished  1280;  it  is  of  red  granite, 
small  and  plain.  A  Persian  nobleman,  Tuckee  Khan,  here  lies  interred  ; 
as  also  his  son,  Azim  Khan.  They  attended  Humaioon  on  his  return 
from  Persia.  Azim  Khan's  tomb  in  the  centre  of  the  building  is  sur- 
rounded by  others  of  his  family.  From  the  tomb  of  Nizam-u-Deen  two 
roads  lead  to  modern  Delhi,  the  upper  through  the  Pathan  city,  a  heap 
of  ruins ;  and  the  lower  by  the  river-side,  and  Secunder  Shah's  Fort, 
(1297,)  which  contains  a  superb  mosque.  West,  are  the  ruins  of  the 
palace  of  Feroze  Shah  (1351)." 

"  The  old  lull  Darwaza,  or  red  gate  of  the  Pathan  city,  is  about  four 
,•  hundred  yards  east  of  the  Delhi  Gate  of  the  modern  city.  It  is  lofty, 
and  built  of  red  granite. 

"The  palaces  and  mosques  are  numerous.  The  palace  of  Sultan 
Dara  Sheko,  eldest  son  of  Shahjahan,is  now  the  Magazine.  The  palace 
of  the  minister  of  the  late  Shah  Alum  is  now   the  Residency.     The 


APPENDIX.  511 

palace  of  AH  Murdan  Khan  is  near  the  Cashmere  Gate ;  that  of  Sadut 
Khan  is  at  the  Cabul  Gate ;  and  in  the  Adjmeer  street  are  the  ruins  of 
the  palace  of  the  Wuzeer  of  Mahomed  Shah. 

"Connected  with  the  palace  at  Delhi  by  a  stone  bridge  is  the  Fort  of 
Selim  Garh,  built  on  a  rock  in  the  river:  it  was  formerly  used  as  a 
prison  for  the  Empress. 

"  Outside  the  Cashmere  Gate,  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  is  the  Kood- 
siya  Bagh,  buUt  by  Shahjahan;  it  is  now  in  ruins.  From  this  garden, 
and  encircling  the  city,  is  Mogul  Parrah,  a  most  extensive  town,  now  a 
mass  of  ruins.  Outside  the  Ajmeer  Gate  is  the  tomb  of  Ghazi-o-din, 
and  appertaining  to  it  are  the  ruins  of  a  college.  On  the  opposite  side 
of  the  road  are  the  tombs  of  Kummeer-u-Din,  his  father  and  his  daughter, 
which  are  worthy  of  a  visit. 

"  About  three  miles  from  the  city  is  the  royal  garden,  named  Toal  ka 
Tourah.  Of  the  famous  garden  of  Shalimar,  about  ten  miles  from  the 
city,  on  the  road  leading  to  Kurnaul,  there  are  no  remains. 

"Near  the  tomb  of  Zeenut-al  Nissa  is  that  of  Malaka  Zemani,  one  of 
the  widows  of  the  Emperor  Mahomed  Shah.  She  was  implicated  in 
the  rebellion  of  Ghoolam  Khadir.  A  small  mosque  of  red  granite  is 
near  the  tomb. 

"  Leading  out  of  a  postern  south  of  the  Lahore  Gate,  is  a  mosque 
called  the  Kuddum  Roosool,  or  foot  of  the  Prophet,  in  memory  of 
the  Arabian  prophet,  '■Nubbee  Kurreem,'  Mahummud  himself, — no  other 
person  has  this  appellation  of  'the  Prophet  of  Beneficence."  A 
number  of  tombs  of  men  of  rank  are  in  the  area,  and  on  the  outside  : 
this  is  deemed  a  holy  spot,  and  as  sacred  as  Nizam-u-Din's,  or  Kutb- 
u-Din's. 

"  The  Subzy  Mundee,  or  vegetable  market,  is  about  three  miles  from 
the  city  on  the  road  to  Kurnaul,  and  beyond  this,  on  both  sides  of  the 
road,  are  the  ruins  of  houses  and  gardens,  reaching  far  beyond  Sha- 
limar :  a  number  also  lay  on  the  west  of  Kudsiya  Bagh,  beyond  the  range 
of  hills  that  rise  about  four  miles  west  of  the  city,  take  a  semicircular 
sweep,  and  extend  in  the  shape  of  a  semicircle  to  Tuglukabad  east,  form- 
ing an  amphitheatre,  the  whole  extent  of  which  is  covered  with  ruins." 

No.  XXXIII.— Vol.  ii.  p.  311. 
"  Because  it  is  a  fellow-feeling  for  a  fellow-creature." 

No.  XXXIV.— Vol.  ii.  p.  333. 

Mr.  Greville,  zoological  artist,  85,  New  Bond  Street,  charges  for  speci- 
mens as  follows: — A  cock  moonal,  or  blue  pheasant,  5/. ;  a  hen  do.,  \l.; 
a  pair  of  the  red   Argus  pheasants,  3^. ;    a  flying  squirrel,  1/.  5*. ;    a 


512  APPENDIX. 

flying  fox,  5«. ;  a  vulture,  21.  Although  the  price  of  birds  for  sale  (not 
set  up)  is  so  high,  he  would  give  but  little  for  them,  and  appeared  to 
think  3/.  for  a  pair  of  moonal  pheasants,  cock  and  hen,  would  be  a  very 
great  sum.     The  charges  for  setting  up  are  extra. 

Mr.  Drew,  a  bird-stuffer  at  Plymouth,  charged  for  setting  up  birds  as 
follows : — A  pair  of  eagles,  11. ;  one  pair  of  pheasants,  lO*.;  one  pair,  ditto, 
smaller,  78. ;  one  brace  of  birds,  still  smaller,  5*. ;  one  pair  of  humming 
birds,  4*. 


INDEX. 


Aboo,  tomb  of,  vol.  ii.  223. 
Abrus  precatorius,  i.  315. 
Acacia  Arabica,  i.  221  ;   ii.  74. 
Achibut  chamber,  i.  213. 

,  sacred,  i.  214. 

Adansonia  digitata,  i.  116 — 118.  225. 
jEschynomene  grand!  flora,  i.  316. 

~ ■ paludosa,  i.  286. 

Agha  Meer,  i.  165. 

Agra,  great  gun  at,  i.  276. 

Akbar  Shah,  tomb   of,   at  Secimdra, 

i.  374. 
Albatross,  i.  8,  9  ;  ii.  354. 
Ali  Merdan  Khan,  palace  of,  ii.  218. 
,  his  canal  of  paradise, 

ii.  194. 
Allahabad,  arrival  at,  i.  71. 

,  residence  at,  i.  77. 

,  sati  at,  i.  91. 

,  temple  of  BhawanI  at,  i.  95. 

,  pillar  in  the  fort  at,  i.  309  ; 

ii.  295.  468. 

,  city  of,  i.  309. 

,  garden,  caravan-sara'e,  and 

great  vfcII  at,  ii.  465 — 467. 
Alligarh,  fortress  of,  ii.  187. 
Alligators,  tame,  ii.  88. 
• in  their  own  wildernesses, 

i.  328. 
Alms,  necessity  of  giving,  i.  465,  466. 
Amaranthus  Gangeticus,  i.  314,  315. 

—  Tricolor,  i.  314. 

Amazonian  Mahratta  lady,  ii.  54,  55. 

Amherst,  Lord,  i.  58. 

Andaman  Islands,  i.  18;  ii.  476. 

Anna,  Puma-Devi,  ii.  179. 

Ants,  strange  notion  of  the  Muham- 

madans  respecting,  i.  314. 

,  white,  i.  145,  146.  312,  313. 

Anwari  fish,  i.  393  ;   ii.  182.  295. 
Apathy  of  the  natives,  i.  296. 
VOL.    II. 


Appa  Sahib,  his  six  wives,  ii.  9. 

Archer,  Lord,  i.  58. 

Architect  of  the  gods,  ii.  64. 

Arrak,  i.  147,  148. 

Arrows,  poisoned,  ii.  73 — 76.  366. 

,  whistling,  i.  235. 

■ of  the  Coles,  i.  236. 

,  Persian  and  Arabian,  ii.  41. 

Artocarpus  integrifolia,  i.  233. 

ArzumundBanu,  account  of,i.  350,351. 

Asclepias  gigantea,  i.  275. 

rosea,  i.  311. 

Asiatic  Society  of  Calcutta,  ii,  105. 

Asoca,  a  shrub  sacred  to  Mahadeo,  ii. 
175. 

Assam  leaf  insect,  ii.  104. 

Auckland,  Lord,  arrival  of,  at  Alla- 
habad, ii.  137. 

,  Lord,  and  the  Misses  Eden 

visit  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior, 
ii.  137,  138. 

Avatars,  the  ten,  ii.  153 — 168. 

Ayha,  revenge  of  an,  i.  137. 

and  durwan,  i.  142,  143. 

B. 

Baboo  Ramohun  Roy,  i.  29. 

Baghmars,  tiger-killers,  ii.  130 — 133. 

Bagh-sira,  i.  290. 

Baiza  Ba'I,  her  Highness  the,  ii.  2 — 9. 
22.  32—39.  43—52.  54—56.  61  — 
63.  109—113.  116—118.  135— 
138.291—293.  296.342—344.465. 

Balaiya  lena,  ceremony  of,  ii.  110. 

Bandarponch,  the  mountain,  ii.  265 — 
269. 

Bangla  of  the  pilgrim,  view  from  the, 
ii.  237. 

Barah  or  Varaha,  the  third  avatar, 
ii.  156. 

Barkandaz,  i.  67.  135.  299. 

Barrackpur,  i,  38;  ii.  101. 

l1 


514 


INDEX. 


Basil. — See  Tulsi. 

Bassia  longifolia,  i.  122. 

Baths,  steam,  i.  86.  100.  368.  419. 

Bauhinia  scandens,  ii.  77,  78. 

Bazar,  Bara,  i.  57. 

Beauty,  female,  notions  of,  entertained 

by  the  natives  of  India,  i.  385. 
Beetle-wings  used  in  embroidery,  i.  67. 
Beggars,  river,  ii.  102. 
Ben  Oge,  ii.  244. 

Benares,  i.  66 — 68;  ii.  61.  435.  470. 
Bengali  woman,  i.  tiO  ;  ii.  97. 
Berhampur,  ii.  98,  99. 
Bhadraj,  expedition  to  the  summit  of, 

ii.  248. 
Bhadrinath,  great  peak  of,  ii.  260,  261. 
,  town  and  temple  of,  ii.  262, 

263. 
Bhagwan,   or   BhawanI,  the  goddess, 

ii.  450. 

• ,  temple  of,  ii.  449. 

,  a  form  of  Dfirga,  ii.  179. 

,  temple  in  Alopee  Bagh,  i. 

95,  96. 
Bhardoajmun,  temples  of,  i.  216. 
Bhoodder  Ram,  the  dwarf,  i.  224. 
Bhora,  a  lucky  mark,  ii.  9. 
Bhugiiviitee,  the  cow,  a  form  of  Durga, 

ii.  174. 
Bhurtpore,  i.  55. 
Bihishti,  i.  299. 

Biloa,  or  Malura,  a  shrub,  ii.  175. 
Bird-catchers,  i.  338. 
,  Chiri-mars,  peculiar  me- 
thod of  snaring  their  game,  ii.  278. 
Birds,    worshipped    by    the    Hindiis, 

ii.  328. 

,  springes  for,  i.  338. 

,  Indian,  ii.  232.  234. 

Blundell,  Major,  death  of,  ii.  235. 

Board  of  works,  i.  Ill — 114. 

Bojesmans,  ii.  360.  362. 

Bombax  ceiba,  i.  341. 

Booteah  Chharra,  used  as  shot,  ii.  255. 

,  probable  origin  of,  ii.  255,  256. 

Borassus  flabelliformis,  ii.  69. 

Bore,  the,  ii.  391. 

Boundaries,   how    determined  in   the 

Hills,  ii.  275. 
Bow,  charmed,  i.  237. 

,  pellet,  i.  236,  237.  312. 

of  the  Coles,  i.  236. 

,  a,  reversed, 

of  the  Hill-men,  ii.  76,  77. 

,  the  spring,  ii.  73. 

Bower,  of  the  pilgrim,  i.  310 — 312. 
Bracelet-bound   brother  and  sister,   ii. 

117,  118. 


Brahma,  the  creator,  ii.  149 — 151 
^ ,the  first  personage 

of  the  Hindi!  triad,  ii.  149. 
Brahmani  bull,  i.  66  ;  ii.  427. 
ducks  (anas  Cfesarca),  i.  341; 

ii.  80.  417. 
Brahmanical  thread,  i.  804,  305. 
Bricks,  ancient,  ii.  88. 
Britons,  ancient,  resemblance  between 

them    and    the    Hindiis,   i.    218  ; 

ii.  259. 
Brumhii,  or  Brahm,  the  one  god  with- 
out a  second,  ii.  148,  149. 
Buddha,  history  of,  the  ninth  avatar, 

ii.  162—168. 
Buffaloes,  curious  manner  of  crossing 

rivers,  i.  161. 
Bulliah,  the  fair  at,  ii.  67.  413. 
Bunce,  little  Jack,  i.  118.  222. 
Bundela,  children,  sale  of,  ii.  294,  295. 
Bungalow,  or  bangla,  i.  137. 
Burat,  the  day  of,  i.  437 — 446. 
Burtreenath,   the   god,   his   residence, 

ii.  61. 
Butea  frondosa,  i.  309. 

superba,  i.  310. 

Buxar,  the  stud  at,  ii.  67. 

By 'a  birds,  i.  220,  221  ;  ii.  74. 

Byragies,  i.  256. 


Cachnar,  ii.  77,  78. 

Cairipiir,    ruins    of   an    ancient    fort 

near,  i.  38. 
Calcutta,  i.  20,  21. 
Camel,  how  to  dress  a,  ii.  36. 
,  curious  method  of  stealing  a, 

ii.  192. 

battery,  Major  Pew's,  ii.  299, 300. 

-,  camelus  bactrianus,  i.  224. 


Cape  hen,  battle  of  one  with  a  terrier, 

i.  10. 
Caraites,  hymn  of  the,  i.  269,  270. 
Carnicobar,  i.  14 — 18. 
Casowtee  stone,  ii.  88,  89. 
Cassia  fistula,  i.  317. 
Cawnpore,  i.  121. 
Chak-chakkl  walas,  i.  299. 
Chakwa. — See  Brahmani  Ducks. 
Champa,  i.  274. 
Chandar-nagar,  ii.  100. 
Chaotree,  i.  447. 
Chapel  at  Pennycross,  ii.  341. 
Cliarpal,  description  of,  i.  387. 
Chaunris,  i.  239. 
Cheeta  hunting,  i.  398,  399. 


INDEX. 


515 


Chinsurah,  ii.  100. 

Chiraghdanis,  ii.  62. 

Chitpore,  corn-mills  at,  ii.  101. 

Cholera,  dread  of,  entertained  by  the 
natives,  ii.  253. 

■ ,  insanity  cured  by  the  fear  of, 

i.  202. 

— — — ,  remarkable  method  of  frighten- 
ing it  away,  i.  281. 

Chounsah,  its  murda-ghat,  or  place  for 
burning  the  dead,  ii.  66,  67. 

Chowringhee,  i.  20. 

Christians,  native,  i.  175;  ii.  293 — 295. 
288. 

Christmas,  presents  at,  i.  120.  171. 

Churls,  or  bracelets,  i.  388  ;  ii.  308. 

Churiik  Puja,  i.  26—28. 

Cicalas,  ii.  236,  237. 

Cintra  oranges,  ii.  99. 

Cloud-end,  ii.  231. 

Cocky-olli  bird  purchased  by  the  pil- 
grim, ii.  142. 

Coins,  Assam,  ii.  14,  15. 

-,   ancient,   found   at   Kanouj,   ii. 


29,  30. 


-,    of  Sekunder-al-Sani, 


i.  133. 

,  Putll,  ii.  55,  56. 

,  conjectured  to  be  Vene- 
tian, ii.  55. 

Coles,  the  bow  and  quiver  of  the, 
i.  236. 

,  war  hatchet  of  the,  ib. 

Colgong,  rocks  of,  ii.  71,  72. 

Combermere,  Lord,  i.  75. 

Commission,  curious,  given  to  the  pil- 
grim by  the  Baiza  Ba'i,  ii.  291,  292. 

Constantia  wine,  why  so  expensive,  ii. 
312. 

Conway,  inscription  on  a  tomb-stone 
in  the  church  of,  ii.  336. 

Coodseah  Begam,  garden  of,  ii.  218. 

Comwallis,  Marquis,  his  tomb,  ii.  65. 

Coronation  of  the  king  of  Oude,  anni- 
versary of  the,  i.  87 — 90. 

Corpses,  Hindu,  horrible  appearance 
of,  in  the  river,  i.  167. 

Corruption  of  words  by  the  natives, 
i.  278. 

Cotton  plant,  i.  341. 

,  Bourbon,  ib. 

tree,  ib. 

seed,  i.  58. 

Cow,  the,  a  form  of  Durga  or  Bha- 
wani,  i.  157,  158. 

tails,  i.  238,  239. 

Cows,  manner  of  doing  puja  to,  i. 
307. 


Cross,  the  Southern,  ii.  375. 

Crossing  the  line,  i.  5. 

Crows,  whimsical  mode  of  frighten- 
ing, practised  by  the  natives,  i.  220. 

Cummer-o'-deen,  Cawn,  palace  of, 
ii.  218. 

Curamnassa  river,  i.  65. 

Cusu  or  kooshii  grass,  i.  307 ;  ii.  425. 


D. 

Dakait,  adventures  of  one  at  Gaur, 
ii.  82,  83. 

Darah  Shekoah,  palace  of,  ii.  218. 

DarzT,  native  tailor,  i.  141. 

Dasturi,  what,  i.  22. 

Datura,  species  of,  i.  148. 

Dead,  burning  the,i.  167;  ii.424.  432. 

Death,  indifference  of  the  Hindoos 
concerning,  i.  331. 

Debts,  interest  on,  i.  37. 

Deer,  mouse,  i.  40. 

,  spotted,  ib. 

Delhi,  first  view  of,  very  imposing, 
ii.  192,  193. 

,  plan  of  the  fort  and  palace  of, 

ii.  193. 

,  church  at,  ib. 

,  the  throne  of  the  padshah,  i.  368. 

Deodar  oil,  ii.  253. 

Devi,  the  goddess,  an  appellation  ap- 
plied particularly  to  Diirga,  ii.  177. 

Devotee,  Indian,  singular  vow  of  one, 
i.  227. 

Dewall,  festival  of  the,  i.  162. 

Dewtas,  or  deotas,  the  mountain  spirits 
of  the  Himalaya,  ii.  268. 

Dhrumsala,  description  of  a,  i.  116. 

Dhul  Dhul,  i.  298. 

Dil-Kusha,  park  of,  i.  181. 

Diseases,  native,  method  of  transmit- 
ting through  flowers,  i.  223. 

Dishes,  ready  dressed,  i.  65. 

Dispute,  theological,  between  a  Musal- 
man  and  a  Hindu,  ii.  287,  288. 

Dividend,  satisfactory,  i.  273. 

Diwan-i-am,  ii.  217. 

i-khass,  ib. 

Dolls,  for  carrying  women,  ii.  227. 

DomnI,  i.  426,  427. 

Dub-grass,  i.  232. 

Ducks,  wild,  curious  method  of  catch- 
ing, i.  228. 

Dukshina-rayii,  the  god,  ii.  107. 

Durga  the  goddess,  i.  34;  ii.  178. 

puja,  i.  34,  35. 

Durwan,  door-keeper,  i.  142. 

l12 


f^^% 


516 


INDEX. 


E. 


Earthquake  at  Prag,  i.  222.  285. 
in  the  Hills,  ii.  240.  244. 


248. 


in  Assam,  ii.  132. 


Eating  the  air,  i.  140. 

Eclipse   of  the   moon,  horror  of  the 

natives  at,  ii.  112. 
Eed,  festival  of  the,  i.  353. 
Egg,  mundane,  of  the  Hindoos,  ii.  180. 
Ektara,  musical  instrument  so  called, 

i.  251. 
Elephant  Minar,  i.  407. 

fights,  i.  176. 

— — — ,  swimming,  an,  i.  159  ;  ii.  68. 
Elephantiasis,  i.  26. 
Etmad-od-Doulah,  tomb  of,  i.  372. 


Fakir  near  Barrackpore,  i.  38. 

at  Prag,  his  cruel  treatment  by 

thieves,  i.  306. 
-'s  rock  at  Janghira,  ii.  71. 


Fakirs,  their  character  of  dishonesty, 
i.  64. 

libertinism  of,  i.  258. 

Famine  at  Kanauj,  ii.  144,  145. 

Fan  palm,  ii.  69. 

Fane,  Sir  Henry,  arrival  of  at  Alla- 
habad, ii.  60. 

Fathighar,  ii.  1. 

Fathipoor  Sicri,  i.  401. 

■ ,  pilgrimage  of  Akbar 

Shah  to,  i.  402. 

Fevers,  Indian,  i.  82,  83. 

Ficus  Indica,  i.  214. 

Fights,  buffalo,  i.  178. 
-,  elephant,  i.  176. 


— ,  horse  and  tiger,  i.  178. 

— ,  quail,  i.  74,  75. 

— ,  ram,  i.  178. 

— ,  rhinoceros,  i.  177. 

— ,  tiger,  i.  178. 


Fish,  flying,  i.  4;  ii.  491. 

,  order  of  the,  i.  458,  459. 

Foot  of  a  Chinese  lady,  model  of  the, 
ii.  105. 

Forgery,  i.  145. 

Fortune-tellers,  precepts  of  Muham- 
mad concerning,  i.  282. 

Fox,  flying,  i.  307. 

France,  Isle  of,  i.  138. 

• • ,  visionary  old  man  at, 

i.  139. 

Frazer,  murder  of  Mr.  Wm.,  ii.  50,  51. 

,Wm.  tomb  of,  at  Delhi,  ii.  193. 


Frontispiece,  description  of  the,  i.  263 

—266. 
Fulbertus  Sagittarius,  i.  59. 

G. 

Gaja  Raja  Sahib,  ii.  3,  4.  6. 
■  performs  piija  at  the 

shrine  of  Mahadeo,  ii.  111. 
Ganesh,  history  of,  in  the  Introduction 

to  Vol.  I. 

,  description  of  plate  of,  i.  263. 

gigantic  image  of,  on  the  banks 

of  the  Ganges,  i.  68. 

-,  his  battle  with  Parashu-Rama, 


ii.  176. 

Ganges,  happiness  of  dying  in  sight  of 
the,  ii.  392. 

Gangoutri,  Captain  Hodgson's  de- 
scription of,  ii.  264,  265. 

,  peak  of,  ii.  244. 

Gardner,  Colonel,  i.  90.  181.  183.  229 
—231.  251.  408.418.420 — 428. 

• ,  death  of,  and  of  his 

begara,  i.  458. 

and  his  begam,  their 

tombs,  ii.  185. 

Garuda,  the  Man-Eagle,  or  Bird-God, 
see  GQroorii,  ii.  174. 

Gaur,  the  ruins  of,  ii.  84 — 87. 

,  Chambers'  descrip- 
tion of,  ii.  89—96. 

Gazooddeen  Cawn,  madrasa,  or  col- 
lege of,  ii.  219,  220. 

Ghazipur,  palace  of  the  Nawab  of,  ii. 
65.  418. 

Ghirgit,  the,  why  held  accursed  by  the 
Muhammedans,  i.  300,  301. 

Ghuri,  description  of  the,  i.  250. 

Ghuznee,  remains  of  the  ancient  city 
of,  ii.  325,  326. 

Gillespie,  Gen.,  death  of,  ii.  242,  243. 

Goat,  balancing,  i.  273. 

Goats,  Bengali,  i.  77. 

,  Jumnapar,  ib. 

Goblin,  address  of  a  Hindu  to  a,  ii.  12, 

Gods,  330,000,000  in  the  Hindu  Pan- 
theon, ii.  147. 

,  pedigree  of  the,  ii.  148 — 181. 

Gooltura,  i.  317. 

Goorz,  Goorzmar,  i.  465. 

Gopalii,  ii.  122. 

Gopi  Nat'hu,  ib. 

Gosain,  detection  of  theft  by  a,  i.  102, 
103. 

,  his  temple,  i.  104,  105. 

Gosseina,  i.  193,  194. 

Gossypium  herbaceum,  i.  341. 


INDEX. 


517 


Govinda,  songs  of,  ii.  116,  117. 

Gram-grinder,  description  of  a,  i.  232, 
233. 

Grass-cutter,  i.  231. 

Grasshoppers,  enamelled,  i.  275. 

Great  gun  at  Agra,  account  of  the,  i. 
276—278. 

Gumuki,  i.  267. 

Gunduc  river,  the  rapidity  of  its  stream, 
ii.  68. 

Giinth,  or  Hill  pony,  description  and 
character  of  one,  ii.  226. 

Giirooru,  the  vahan  of  Vishnii,  descrip- 
tion of,  ii.  328. 

invoked  by  the  Hindoos  to  ob- 
tain protection  from  snakes,  ii.  328. 

Gynee  club,  i.  25  J . 


H. 


Haemanthus  toxicaria,  ii.  366. 

Hanasa,  the  swan,  the  vahan  of  Brah- 
ma, ii.  174. 

Hail,  tremendous  storm  of,  i.  291. 

Hair,  washing  the,  i.  136. 

Hanging  one's  self  for  spite,  i.  249. 

Harrow  boys,  i.  53. 

Hastings,  Lord,  death  of,  i.  71. 

Heat,  prickly,  i.  5. 

Heber,  Bishop,  death  of,  i.  60. 

Hebrew  hymn,  i.  270. 

Hessing,  Colonel,  tomb  of,  i.  418. 

Hibiscus  cannabinus,  i.  316. 

Indica,  ib. 

longifolius,  i.  315. 

'  mutabilis,  ib. 

sabdariffa,  i.  316. 

Hill  people,  ii.  75—77. 

Hills  on  fire,  ii.  246. 

Himalaya  mountains,  elevation  of,  ii. 
260—270. 

Hindostani  song,  i.  133, 134. 

Hindii  triad,  ii.  147. 

Hindus  will  neither  make  converts  or 
be  converted,  ii.  288. 

Hoogly  river,  ii.  102. 

,    introduction    of    steam 

boats  on  the,  i.  32. 

Hooqii  cakes,  ii.  8. 

Horrors,  bottle  of,  i.  243. 

Horseradish  tree,  i.  314. 

Horse,  Skinner's,  i.  76. 

Horses,  lucky  and  unlucky  marks  on, 
ii.  9—11. 

-,  native,  extremely  vicious,  ii. 


279. 


i.  138. 


-,  poisoning  of,  by  the  natives. 


Horses,  stud  of,  marks  on,  i.  161. 
House,  pakka,  what,  i.  137. 
Houses,  Indian,  style  of,  i.  21. 
Hukak,  i.  113. 
Humaioon,  mausoleum  of,  at  Delhi,  ii. 

197,  198. 
Humming  birds,  i.  311. 
Hiinooman,  the  Monkey-god,  account 

of,  i.  109. 

,  temple  of,  i.  115. 

,  his  fiery  tail,  ii.  269. 

Hurdwar,  ii.  265. 

Hyatt-ool-Nissa  Begam,  the  pilgrim's 

visit  to,  ii.  213,  214. 
Hymn,  Hebrew,  i.  270. 

I.  J. 

Jagana'th,  a  form  of  Krishna,  ii.  172. 

made  of  the  vertebra  of  an 

animal,  i.  262. 

,  temple  of,  ii.  381. 

,  the  idol,  ii.  384. 

,  the  swing  of,  ii.  382. 

-See  Krishna. 


Jahanara  Begam,  tomb  of,  i.  371,  372. 

Jahangiii  Mahul,  i.  361. 

Jama  Khanas,  i.  354. 

Jamh  O  Deen  Muhammad,  visit  from, 
i.  33. 

Jampan,  description  of  a,  ii.  227. 

Janao,  or  sacred  thread,  i.  304,  305  ; 
ii.  62. 

Jasmine,  double  Arabian,  i.  274. 

Jasminum  sambac  pleno,  ib. 

Ice,  consumption  of  American,  i.  287. 

pits  at  Allahabad,  i.  78.  222. 

Ichneumon,  i.  314. 

Idiot  son  of  a  Brahman,  i.  225. 

Jellinghy  flat,  vessel  so  called,  ii.  105. 

Jerripani,  ii.  236. 

Jhod  Ba'I,  tomb  of,  i.  407  ;  ii.  465. 

Illness,  singular  mode  of  getting  rid  of, 
believed  in  by  the  natives,  i.  223. 

,    feigned,  punishment   of,    ii. 

303. 

Imam-Bara,  i.  179. 

Imams,  leaders  of  the  faithful,  i.  293 
—295. 

John  Strong,  the  drummer,  presents 
his  wife  to  a  comrade,  and  desires  to 
contract  a  second  matrimonial  alli- 
ance, ii.  293. 

Ipomaea  quamoclit,  i.  310. 

speciosa,  i.  311. 

Ishk-pecha,  i.  310. 

Jumna,  storm  on  the,  ii.  53,  54. 

Jumnotii,  peaks  of,  ii.  265. 


518 


INDEX. 


Jungipur,  toll  at,  ii.  97. 
Jutayoo,  a   bird    worshipped   by   the 
Hindoos,  ii.  328. 


Kadani-i-rasiil,  history  of  the,  ii.  86, 

87. 
Kadam  Sharif,  footprints  of  the  pro- 
phet, at  Gaur,  ii.  86. 
Kafir  warrior,  ii.  369. 
Kailas,  the  mountain,  ii.  266. 
Kaldung,  the  mountain,  ii.  269. 
Kali,  a  name  of  Durga,  ii.  178. 
Kali  Ma'i,  temple  of,  at  Kali  Ghat,  ii. 

104. 
Kali  Nad;  river,  ii.  28. 
Kalki,  or  the  horse,  the  tenth  and  final 

avatar  yet  to  come,  ii.  168. 
Kaloo-rayii,  a  form  of  Shivu,  ii.  106, 

107. 
Kalsas,  i.  96  ;  ii.  417—421. 
Kalunga,    brave   defence   of,    by   the 

Ghoorkas,  ii.  242,  243. 
Kam-dhemu,  the  cow  of  plenty,  ii.  159. 
Kama-Deva,  the  god  of  love,  ii.  171, 

172. 
Kanaiij,  ruins  of,  ii.  29,  30. 

,  legend  of,  ii.  146. 

,  ancient  Hindu  ruin  at,  ii.  143. 

Kanwar  Wala,  i.  260. 
Kartikeya,  the  god  of  war,  ii.  176. 
Kasim  bazar,  ii.  98. 
Kedarnath,  peak  of,  ii.  263. 

,  temple  of,  ib. 

Keeree  pass,  ii.  276,  277. 

Kharita   of  her   Highness   the  Bmza 

Ba'i,  ii.  250. 
Khud,  a  narrow  valley  between  two 

hills,  so  called,  ii.  240. 
Khunjunu,    the    wag-tail,    a   form   of 

Vishnu,  ii.  329. 
Kimkhwab,  manufactory  of,  ii.  62. 
Kodalee,  the  Thugs'  pickaxe,  i.  153. 
Kookree  of  the  Ghoorkas,  description 

of,  ii.  243. 
Korah,  or  bughalee,  of  the  Ghoorka 

officers,  ii.  243. 
Kos  Minar,  i.  377 ;  ii.  188. 
Kotila  of  Feroze  Shah,  ii.  198. 
•Krishn,  or  Kaniya-jee,  history  of,  ii. 

118—124. 
and  the  16,000  gopis,  sporting 

as  elephants,  horses,  &c.,  ii.  121. 
as  gopalu  and  gopi  nat'hii,  ii. 


122. 


Radha,i.  263,264;  ii.  1 16.  122. 


Krishn,  descent  of  Vishnu  as,  ii.  168 

—171. 
the  bones  of,  and  history,  ii. 

381—385. 
Kurma,  the  tortoise,  the  second  avatar, 

ii.  155. 
Kutab  Ki  Lat,  ii.  205,  206. 
Kutab  Minar,  ii.  202—205. 
Kutcherry,  a,  i.  122. 
Kywan  Jah,  Prince,  i.  73. 


Lachhmi,  the  goddess  of  beauty,  i.  42. 
206,  207. 

,  the  wife  of  Vishnu,  ii.   176, 

177. 

Ladies,  native,  their  amusements  in  the 
zenana,  i.  230,  231. 

La  Martiniere,  i.  179. 

Landowr,  ii.  229. 

Lathi,  what,  i.  132. 

Leaf-grasshopper,  i.  242. 

Leprosy,  Arabian,  i.  204  —  206. 

Line,  ceremonies  of  crossing  the,  i. 
5—7. 

Light,  phosphoric,  of  the  waves ;  de- 
scription of  the  animal  causing,  ii. 
353. 

Lights,  festival  of,  i.  162,  163. 

Locusts,  i.  288,  289. 

Lucnow,  visit  to,  i.  73. 

■ ,  second  visit  to,  i.  175. 

M. 

Mach,   Machchha,   the   Fish,  or   first 

avatar,  ii.  153 — 155. 
Magellan  clouds,  ii.  353.  375. 
Magic,  temple  of,  i.  404. 
Maliabarat,  a  poem  composed  by  Vy- 

asa,  ii.  179. 
Mahadeo,  or    Maha-Deva,  a  form  of 

Shivu,  ii.  175,  176. 
Mahratta  Camp,  ii.  32,  33. 
Map  of  Delhi,  ii.  222. 
"  Marchioness  of  Ely,"  voyage  in  the, 

i.  2. 
Marriage  of  a  nim  to  a  peepul,  i.  72. 
of  Susan  Gardner  to  Unjun 

Sheko,  i.  420—448. 
Martine,  General  Claude,  i.  179. 

,  his  magnificent  tomb,  ib. 

Martynia,  proboscidea,  i.  319. 
Masjid  Jama,   the   great    mosque   at 

Delhi,  ii.  220,  221. 
■ ,  Kala,   or  black   mosque,   ii. 

221,  222. 


INDEX. 


519 


Masjid,  Akbarabadi,  ii.  200. 
of  the   Princess  of  China,   i. 

373,  374. 

,  the  Golden,  ii.  84. 

,  Moti,  the  mosque  of  pearl,  i. 

360. 
Mats,  Calcutta,  i.  313. 
Meerunkee  Sara'e,  ii.  143. 
Melaleuca  Ky'a-pootie,  i.  317. 
Mem  Sahiba,  speech  of  the,  i.  334. 
Menagerie  at  Lucnow,  i.  182. 

at  Barrackpur,  i.  39. 

Mendicants,  religious,  i,  39. 

,  account  of,  i.  256—260. 

Menhdi,  day  of,  i.  430 — 435. 
Metcalfe,   Sir   Charles,  arrival  of,  at 

Allahabad,  ii.  49. 
Mher-  ul  -Nissa,    or    Noormahul,    or 

Noorjahan,  history  of,  i.  361 — 364. 
Michelia  champaca,  i.  274. 
Milton,  descendants  of,  ii.  380. 
Mint  at  Gwalior,  ii.  56. 
Miriam  Zumanl,  tomb  of,  i.  377. 
Monghir,  ii.  69. 
Monkey,  holy,  ii.  125. 
— — — ,  one  kept  in  or  near  a  stable, 

and  why,  ii.  13. 
Moorshadabad,  palace  of  the  Nawab 

at,  ii.  98. 
Mor-pankhi,  a  kind  of  pleasure-boat 

so  called,  ib. 
Mountain  storm,  ii.  251. 
Moustache,  to  dye  the,  i.  320. 
Muhammad,  the  prophet,  i.  107. 293 — 

301.  453,  454.  459—466. 
■ ,     anecdotes    concerning, 

i.  248.  282. 
Muharram,  account  of  the,  i.  295 — 300 ; 

ii.  17—21.  374. 
Mulka  Begam,  i.  381. 
,  divorce  of,  from  Mirza 

Selim,  and  marriage  to  Mr.  James 

Gardner,  i.  382. 
Mulka  Zumani,  i.  192,  193. 
Mijndodiiree,   the   wife  of   the    giant 

Ravuna,  i.  110. 
Murder  of  two  ladies  in  a  zenana,  ii. 

56. 

N. 

Nach  girls,  i.  29,  30.  391.  427—429. 

431. 
Nag-panchami,  i.  308. 
Nalapani,  ii.  269. 
Nara-Singha,  or    the   Man-Lion,   the 

fourth  avatar,  ii.  1 57- 
Native  servants,  ludicrous  quarrels  of, 

i.  146,  147. 


Nauclea  gambir,  i.  318. 

Orientalis,  ib. 

Nawab,  the,  the  Merchant,  and  the 
Palki,  ii.  306,  307. 

a  Muhammadan  title  of  ho- 
nour, singularly  bestowed  also  on  the 
ladies  of  the  family  of  the  Emperor 
of  Delhi,  i.  394.  415.  458. 

Hakim  Menhdi,  his  house  and 


zenana,  ii.  17 — 20. 


reappoi 


inted 


minister  in  Oude,  ii.  135. 
,   his  death,  ii. 


139. 


suspension- 


bridge  of,  ii.  182. 

Newlands,  ii.  235.  371. 

Nicobar,  islands  of,  i.  14;  ii.  476. 

Nicumbha  the  fiend,  i.  35. 

Nim  tree,  i.  71,  72.  112. 

Nobutpoor,  i.  65. 

Noor-jahan,  history  of,  i.  361 — 364. 

,  turret  of,  i.  364. 

Nose-ring,  i.  385. 

"  Not  at  home,"  Indian  expression 
equivalent  to,  i.  388. 

Nulgoon  Pass,  ii.  269. 

Nusseer-ood-Deen-Hydur,  death  of, 
ii.  114. 

Nut  Log,  or  wandering  gipsies,  ac- 
count of,  i.  272. 

Nyctanthes  the  sorrowful,  i.  312. 

Nymphaea,  the,  i.  311. 


O. 

Oats,  i.  223. 

Obelisk  at  Gaur,  ii.  92—94. 

Observatory  near  Delhi,  ii.  209 — 
212. 

Ocymum  album,  i.  217. 

pilosum,  ib. 

Oleander,  i.  78. 

Omens,  bad,  during  the  march  of  the 
Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi,  ii.  135. 

One-eyed  men  supposed  to  be  more 
knowing  than  others,  ii.  13. 

Oomeid  Thug,  narrative  of,  i.  243 — 
246. 

Orange,  H.R.H.  Prince  Henry  of,  and 
the  Hon.  the  Misses  Eden  visit  Luc- 
now, ii.  140. 

Oude,  heir  apparent  of,  ii.  139. 

-,     King    of,    Ghazee-Ood-Deen 


Hyder,  i.  173. 


-,  his  meeting  with  the 


Governor-General,  i.  174. 


520 


INDEX. 


Pachisi-board,  i.  405,  406. 

Padshah  Bagh,  the,  i.  180. 

Paganini  of  the  East,  i.  251. 

Paharis,  or  Hill-men,  description  of,  ii. 
227. 

,  curious  customs  of  the,  re- 
lating to  marriage,  ii.  259. 

Palanquins,  i.  24. 

Palia  Gadh,  glen  of,  ii.  267. 

,  wild  legends  con- 
nected with  the,  ii.  268. 

Palma,  island  of,  i.  3,  4 ;   ii.  350. 

Pan  and  Atr,  ii.  4,  5.  445. 

■ Gardens,  ii.  86. 

Panchayat,  or  native  court  of  justice, 
ii.  305. 

Pandanus  odoratissimus,  i.  318. 

Pankha,  i.  25. 

Paper,  sheets   of,   immense,    ii.    201, 
202. 

Paradise,  canal  of,  ii.  195. 

Parda  of  the  Mahrattas,  ii.  45. 

,  procession  in,  ii.  46,  47. 

Parisnath,  temple  of,  i.  324  ;  ii.  166. 

Parkyal,  ii.  269. 

Parswanath,  the  god,  Budhist  or  Jain, 
i.  325  ;  ii.  166. 

Parvuti,  ii.  145.  175. 

Pathan, barbarous  treatment  ofa,i.  284. 

Peacock,  goose,  and  owl,  the,  worship- 
ped by  the  Hindoos,  ii.  329. 

Pebbles   from   the   Soane    and    Cane 
rivers,  i.  113,  114. 

Pedigree  of  the  gods,  ii.  147,  148. 

of  Col.  Wm.  L.  Gardner,  i. 

420. 

of  the  kings  of  Oude,  i.  186. 

Peepul  tree,  i.  217.  221,  222. 

— — — — ,  remarkable  quality  of  its 
seeds,  ii.  295. 

-,  its  skeleton  leaves,  i.  218. 


Pheasant,  red,  ii.  232. 

-,  blue,  of  the  Himalaya,  ii. 

232. 
Phulu-Huree,  i.  164,  165. 
Pico,  the  island  of,  ii.  494. 
Pigeon,  Cape,  i.  8. 
Pilgrim,   the,   and   another   lady,   are 

mistaken  for  cadets,  ii.  302,  303. 
• the,  taken  for  a  foreigner ;  also 

for  a  lancer,  ii.  329. 
Pintado,  i.  8. 

Pir  Shah,  tomb  of,  ii.  223. 
Plague,  alleged  appearance  of,  at  Palee, 

ii.  110. 
Poinciana  pulcherrima,  i.  317. 


Poison,  African,  and   poison-bulb,  ii. 

366,  367. 
Polyanthus  tuberosa,  i.  318. 
Porto  Santo,  island  of,  i.  3. 
Powder  works  and  rocket  manufactory, 

i.  225,  226. 
Punica  granatum,  i.  317. 
Punishment,   brutal,   inflicted   by   the 

King  of  Oude,  i.  169. 
Punishments   of  the   grave,    Muham- 

madan  notions  concerning  the,  i.  464 

—466. 
Puranas,  the  sacred,  ii.  179. 


Q. 

Quail  shooting,  i.  229. 

,  pitched  battle  of,  i.  74,  75. 

Quarrel,  laughable,  between  an  aylia 

and  an  abdar,  i.  140,  141. 
Qui  hys,  old  Indians  why  so   called, 

i.  145. 
Quicksand,  accident  in  a,  i.  247. 


R. 

Radha  Krishn,  ii.  122. 

Raja,  a  Hindii  sovereign ;  a  title  be- 
stowed also  most  singularly  upon  the 
ladies  of  Scindia's  family,  ii.  342. 
465. 

Raj  ghat,  Allahabad,  i.  114. 

Rakhi,  or  bracelet,  festival  of  the,  ii. 
117,  118. 

Rama,  or  Ram,  descriptions  of, 
i.  263. 

Parashu,  the  sixth  avatar,  ii.  159. 

Chandra,  the  seventh  avatar,  ii. 

160,  161. 

Bala,  the  eighth  avatar,  ii.  161. 

Sita,  i.  342  ;  ii.  161. 

•  Leela  festival,  i.  108. 


Ranayana,  an  epic  poem,  ii.  179. 

Ras,  sacred  dance  so  called,  ii.  116. 

Rat,  the  vahan  of  Ganesh,  ii.  1 74. 

Rat's  granary,  ii.  241. 

,  Bandicote,  i.  51. 

Ravuna,  the  giant,  i.  109,  110. 

Ree9ee  Khoond,  warm  spring  at,  ii.  71. 

Reflection  of  distant  objects,  extraor- 
dinary power  of  seeing  the,  i.  139. 

Rhododendron,  white,  ii.  232. 

,  juice  of  the  petals  of 

the,  alleged  to  have  an  intoxicating 
quality,  ii.  232. 

Rice,  trial  by,  i.  40. 


INDEX. 


521 


Riding,  style  of,  practised  by  the  Mah- 
ratta  ladies,  ii.  5,  6. 

Roasting  a  sirdar-bearer,  charge  for, 
ii.  30. 

Rockets,  i.  225. 

Roomal,  or  handkerchief  of  the  Thugs, 
i.  156. 

Roomee  Durwaza,  i.  179. 

Rosaries,  i.  258—260.  267. 

Runjeet  Singh,  meeting  of  Lord  Auck- 
land with,  ii.  297. 

Rupees,  recovery  of  the  stolen,  i.  1 02. 


S. 


Saadut  Ulee  Khan,  tomb  of,  i.  182. 

• ,  baths  of,   ii.  218, 

219. 

,  palace  of,  ii,  218. 

Sachak,  day  of,  i.  428. 

Saharanpiir,  botanical  garden  at,ii.  224. 

Sa'is,  whimsical  complaint  of  a,  i.  234. 

Salt-box,  peculiar  kind  of,  used  by  the 
Hill-men,  ii.  89. 

Salvia  Bengalensis,  i.  315. 

Saraswati,  the  goddess  of  learning,  sci- 
ence, and  the  fine  arts,  ii.  177,  178. 

,  picture  of,  riding  on  a  pea- 
cock, on  the  cover  of  Vol.  I. 

the  river,  i.  213. 


Sarson,  a  species  of  mustard  plant,  ii. 

88. 
Sati  without  a  head,  stolen  and  brought 

on  board  the  pinnace,  ii.  25. 

at  Allahabad,  i.  91. 

at  Nobutpoor,  i.  65. 

at  Ghazipur,  ii.  419. 

abolished,  i.  161. 

mounds  in  Alopee  Bagh,  i.  95. 

at  Beerpur,  ii.  66. 

School,  experimental,  fecundity  of  the 

young  ladies  in,  ii.  293 — 295. 
Scorpion,  the  fact  of  its  self-destruction 

when    tormented   by    fire,    ii.    238, 

239. 
"  Seagull,"  the  pinnace,  description  of, 

i.  322. 

,  loss  of  the,  ii.  59. 

Sefder  Jung,  palace  of,  ii.  218. 
Sekunder  al  Sani,  ii.  25. 
,  inscriptions  on  coins  of,  i. 

133. 
Selim  Ghar,  i.  364. 
,  Shaik,  of  Cheestie,  tomb  of,   i. 

403. 
Sensitive  plant,  i.  315. 
Serampur,  ii.  101. 
VOL.  II. 


Servants,  list  of,  i.  209. 

Shah'alam,  tomb  of,  ii.  208. 

Shah  Burj,  the  royal  tower,  ii.  218. 

Kubbeer-oo-deen  Ahmud,  i.  65. 

Shahjahan,  i.  349. 

Shahjahanabad,  modern  city  of,  ii.  193. 

Shalgramii,  description  of  the,  i.  43 — 

45. 
Shalimar,  gardens  of,  ii.  218. 
Shark,  blue,  i.  8. 
Shawl,  looking-glass,  i.  239,  240. 
Sheep,  Doomba,  i.  78. 

,  Karral,  ii.  239. 

Sher  Afgan,  i.  361. 

Shield,  silver,  presented  to  Mr.  Blood 

by  the  16th  Lancers,  ii.  188. 
Shisha-mahal,  or  house  of  glass,  i.  365, 

366. 
ShivQ,  the  destroyer,  the  third  person- 
age  of   the   Hindu   triad,  ii.   172, 

173. 
Shola  floats  (com.  sola),  ii.  100. 
Shooting  season  on   the   ocean,   i.   9, 

10. 
Shubbeah  Begam,  i.  422. 
Sikri  Gali,  ii.  72.  397. 
Simundee  Begam,  tomb  of,  i.  358. 
Sircar,  or  Sarcar,  i.  21,  22. 
Sita  Kbiind,  boiling  spring  of,  ii.  69, 

70. 
Sitar,  description  of  a,  i.  250. 
Sitee  Khanam,  i.  359. 
Skip-jacks,  i.  5. 
Slang,  essay  on,  ii.  283,  284. 
Slavery    at    the   Cape,    extraordinary 

story  relative  to,  ii.  357. 
Sling,  peculiar,  used  by  the  Hill-men, 

ii.  243. 
Small  pox,  ravages  of,  ii.  110. 
Snake-boats,  ii.  98. 

charmers,  ii.  436. 

,  imposture  of  a,  i.  108. 

sea,  i.  12. 

Snakes,  directions  of  Mohummud  re- 
lative to,  i.  107,  108. 
,  dread  of,  not  innate  in  man,  i. 

302. 
Sneezing,  Hindu  superstitions  relative 

to,  ii.  289. 
Snowy  ranges  of  the  Himalaya,   first 

view  of  the,  ii.  224. 
Soane,  blue  waters  of  the,  ii.  67. 
Soap  stone,  i.  343. 
Sola,  hats  and  other  articles  made  of, 

i.  286;  ii.  100. 
Sonahia  Mahal,  or  chamber  of  gold,  i. 

375.  377. 
Song,  HindostanI,  i.  134. 
M  m 


522 


INDEX. 


Sorcery,  practised  with  a  charmed  bow, 

i.  237. 
Spider,  the,  why  held  sacred  by  the 

Muhammedans,  i.  300,  301. 
Spirit  of  a  man  destroyed  by  a  tiger, 

superstition  relating  to  the,  ii.  13, 14. 
Sporting  in  Assam,  ii.  12.5 — 133. 
Spring  bow,  ii.  73,  74.  131. 
Squirrel,  Jack  Bunce  the,  i.  18. 
Sriphul,   or  the    flower    of   Sri,   the 

poetic  name  of  the  biloa,  ii.  175. 
Stars,  falling,  Mahomedan  philosophy 

of,  i.  248. 
St.  Helena,  ii.  316— 320. 
Stone,  flexible,  ii.  256. 
Stones,  those  used  in  the  Mosaic  of  the 

Taj,  i.  357. 
Storm,  the  spirit  of  the,  ii.  349. 
Strelitzia  regina,  ii.  365. 
Sugar  mills,  ii.  457 — 460. 
Sunderbands,  ii.  106. 
Superstitions  of  the  natives,  ii.  9. 
Surya-Kund,  hot  spring  of,  ii.  262. 
Sutherland,  Major,  Resident  of  Gwa- 

lior,  ii.  183,  184.  186—188. 


Tailors  not  allowed   to  make  clothes 

for  Hinds  ladies,  ii.  113. 
Taj  Mahul,  i.  348—359. 

,  ground  plan  of  the,  i.  356. 

Taziya,  what,  i.  296. 
Temple  of  the  Gosain,  i.  104. 
Theatre,  Artillery,  at  Meerut,  ii.  190. 
Theodore,    Mrs.,    her     collection    of 

stufled  birds  and  beasts,  ii.  225. 
Thennantidote,  i.  199.  208. 
Thief  detected  by  a  Gosa'in.i.  102, 103. 
Thieves,  domestic,  i.  101 — 104. 
Thug,  confessions  of  a,  i.  123 — 131. 
,  escape  of  a  gentleman  from  a, 

i.  168. 
Thugs,  execution  of  eleven,  i.  15 1,152. 
twenty-five,  i.  201, 

202. 

,  customs  of  the,  i.  153 — 158. 

'  dice,  i.  151. 

,  slang  terms  used  by  the,  i.  130. 

•Tiger,  au  naturel,  ii.  225. 

hunting  on  foot,  ii.  128 — 130. 

tracks,  ii.  72,  73. 

claws,  charms  made  of,  ii.  12, 13. 

Tika,  ornament  so  called,  description 

of  the,  i.  254. 
Timber  rafts,  ii.  99,  100. 


Title  conferred  on  the  pilgrim  by  her 
Highness  the  ex-Queen  of  Gwalior, 
ii.7. 

Toddy,  injurious,  i.  147,  148. 

Tongue,  protrusion  of  the,  an  expres- 
sion of  shame  among  the  Hindu 
women,  i.  165. 

Tooth-brushes  regarded  with  horror, 
i.  462. 

Travati  the  Elephant,  the  vahan  of 
Indra,  ii.  174, 

Treasures,  hidden,  ii.  41,  42. 

Triveni,  what,  i.  213. 

,  pilgrimage  to  the,  i.  212,  213. 

— — ,  the  Gaja  Raja  and  all  her 
ladies  bathe  at  the,  ii.  48. 

Tulsi,  puja  of  the,  i.  42. 

,  sweet,  ib. 

,  various  sorts  of,  i.  217. 

Turban,  arrangement  of  a,  i.  234. 


U. 

Ubruk  (talc)   applied  to   many  uses, 

i.  219. 
Unicorn,  alleged  existence  of  the,  in  the 

Himalaya,  i.  239. 
Up-Country  men,  their  hatred  of  the 

Bengalis      curiously      exemplified, 

ii.  309,  310. 
Ussuf-ood-Dowla,  his  tomb,  i.  179. 


V. 

Vaccine  department  done  away  with, 
evils  resulting  therefrom,  ii.  110. 

Valmiki,  the  first  Indian  poet,  ii.  179. 

Vamana,  or  the  Dwarf,  the  seventh 
avatar,  ii.  157 — 159. 

Vase,  silver,  a  prize  gained  by  the 
pilgrim  in  a  lottery,  ii.  112. 

Vedas,  the,  ii.  180,  181. 

Vessel,  spirit  of  a,  i.  345. 

Viasa,  an  Indian  poet,  compiler  of  the 
Vedas,  ii.  179. 

Vishnu  tiie  Preserver,  the  second  per- 
sonage of  the  Hindu  triad,  i.  27. 
42—45  ;  ii.  151,  152. 

Visionary  old  man,  the,  i.  139. 

Voyage  on  the  Ganges,  vessels  for, 
i.  31. 

W. 

Waterspouts,  ii.  475.  493. 
Wax  of  the  human  ear,  i.  177. 


INDEX. 


523 


Wax,  sealing,  i.  309. 

Widows,    Hindii,    the    privations    to 

which  they  are  subjected,  ii.  7,  8. 
Wind  raised  by  a  sati,  ii.  25. 
WolflF,    the    Rev.    Joseph,    i.    268— 

272. 
Women,  Bengali,  ii.  97,  98. 
■ ,  their  great  influence  over  men 

in  India,  i.  140. 
Wood-cutters  of  Bengal,  their  peculiar 

mode  of  worshipping  Kuloo-rayii, 

ii.  107. 


Y. 

Yak,  or  cow  of  Thibet,  tail  of,  i.  238, 

239. 
Yam,  rut  aloe,   (dioscorea  sativa,)   i. 

316. 


z. 

Zamia  horrida,  ii.  365,  366. 

longifolia,  ib. 

Zeenut-al-Masjid,  ii.  200. 

Zenana  or  zanana  of  a  Calcutta  baboo, 

i.  60. 
of  thekingofOude,  i.  87 — 90. 

192—195. 

-,  revelations  of  life  in  the  ze- 


nana of  a  Timoorian  princess,  i.  379. 
-,  life  in  the,  and  chita  hunting. 


i.  391. 

,  marriage  in  the  zenana,  i.  421. 

of  the  Nawab  Hakim  Menhdi, 


ii.  19,  20. 

of  Nawab  of  Fathlgarh,  ii.  16. 


Zenana-ghar,  ii.  208. 

Zoffani,  picture  painted  by,  i.  181. 

Zumanl  Miriam,  tomb  of,  i.  377. 


TllR   END. 


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